SAFARI NEWS WINTER EDITION 2018
GORONGOSA
the new home to
Garden Route
adventure calls
WILD DOGS
s n i l o g n a P The secret life of
This winter in Safari News is the publication for connoisseurs of the wild earth. Packed with environmental news, travel ideas, and the best of Africa’s natural wonder, Safari News is the must-have guide to your next adventure. Read about the latest strides in conservation as you celebrate the continent’s natural spaces, parks and reserves.
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/Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park Join journalist René de Klerk as she braves the wilderness on foot to find Venstervalle.
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Addo Elephant National Park This Eastern Cape park has been abuzz since two new lions were introduced in April.
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Cederberg Have you seen the Cederberg’s large trees? Head to the Cederberg Wilderness Area and you might spot the critically endangered Clanwilliam cedar tree.
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Gorongosa National Park A pack of wild dogs introduced into Gorongosa National Park may just hold the ticket for a restoration of wild dog populations in Mozambique.
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Tswalu Kalahari Reserve In Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, one researcher is learning all she can about the world’s most trafficked animal, the pangolin.
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Victoria Falls There’s nothing quite like the Smoke that Thunders in a wet season.
Airlink destinations South Africa Bloemfontein Cape Town East London George Hoedspruit Johannesburg Kimberley Mthatha Nelspruit Phalaborwa Pietermaritzburg Polokwane Port Elizabeth Richards Bay Sishen Skukuza Upington Southern Africa Antananarivo Beira Bulawayo Gaborone Harare
Kasane Livingstone Lusaka Manzini (Sikhupe) Maputo Maseru Maun Nampula Ndola Nosy Be Pemba St Helena Tete Victoria Falls Vilanculos Walvis Bay Windhoek Lodge Link Arathusa Londolozi Ngala Phinda Skukuza Ulusaba
Visit www.flyairlink.com to find out more.
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Kruger National Park Care to live it up in Kruger in style? Jock Safari Lodge might be just the spot for you to do it.
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Pilanesberg National Park Fancy a bush experience with a twist? Pilanesberg Tented Adventures offers exactly that.
Golden Gate Take a trip to Golden Gate Highlands National Park to experience the golden sandstone cliff faces of the Maluti Mountains.
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Garden Route National Park Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail Travel the Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail and you can experience three billion years’ worth of geological history.
Ever thought of the Garden Route as an adventure destination? With world-famous trails, bungee jumping and scooter tours on offer, you can see this world of ancient forests from a new perspective.
Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 3
SAFARINEWSCONTENT LIVING WORLD 5–13 News from the world of conservation WILD EARTH Are our leopards in trouble?
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Blue crane conservation in the Overberg
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Wild dogs head to Gorongosa
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Conserving SA’s cycads 17 Going in-depth with pangolins in Tswalu
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Talitha and the turtles
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Bush telegraph
SPOTLIGHT on lions 16
by Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld Editor Safari News
HERITAGE 23
“T
Discover magic on the Ribola Art Route WANDER 24 Rainbows, beats and sangomas at Victoria Falls LESS TRAVELLED 27 Do you have what it takes to tackle Venstervalle? FOCUS 29 Golden Gate is a hiker’s paradise
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ON TRACK 31 Head back billions of years on the Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail ADVENTURE 34 Discover the adrenaline junkie’s Garden Route
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HOTSPOTS 36 Our pick of destinations worth travelling for REGULARS Map and highlights: This season in Safari
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Contents 4 Living world: News 5-13 Gear guide: Hot tech and gadgets 13 By the book
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Zoom in: Photos 20 Kids’ corner: Fun for the little ones 26 Diary: Events guide 28 Food: Dig in 30 A day in the life
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Last word: Otch Otto on the bush 39 Editor Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld +27 83 688 0921 taryn.arnott@gmail.com Senior journalist René de Klerk +27 78 275 5978 / +27 11 293 6043 renedk@caxton.co.za Advertising and Reporting Georgina Lockwood +27 11 889 0608 georginal@caxton.co.za Design Lilac Lime Studio +27 11 679 5079 info@lilaclime.co.za Printing CTP Printers Johannesburg Page 4 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
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Distribution RNA +27 11 248 3500 Image library Fotolia Freepix MapStudio
We’d love to hear from you. Write to us at safari@caxton. co.za and share your adventures, sightings, photos and stories. We can’t wait to hear what you have to say!
GORONGOSA
the new home to
Garden Route
adventure calls
lilac lime studio
WILD DOGS
Pangolins The secret life of
Cover photo by Graham Kearney
here really is no such thing as keeping balance.” I was trying to pinpoint the essential role of leopards in maintaining balance within an ecosystem, and Prof Daniel Parker, well-known academic and ecology researcher, had just burst my bubble. We like to imagine a natural world in constant harmony. But Prof Parker is correct. There never really is a true balance. If there were, there would be no need for conservation interventions. But in the environment, there are always elements working to compensate for the disturbances to the equilibrium. That is why prey animals and predators are always adapting to one another, and droughts bring drastic changes in various population sizes. If predictability were a reliable measure within natural systems, then we would never be surprised by the way in which nature unfolds. We would not be surprised by a new breeding site discovered for whitewinged flufftails – a critically endangered bird – in Mpumalanga (p10). But instead, we are rejoicing at the news. And our conservationists would not be constantly fighting battles to ensure the long-term survival of rhinos (p5, 38), leopards (p7), cheetahs (p13), wild dogs (p15), cranes (p14), lions (p16), pangolins (p19), cycads (p17) and turtles (p32) – among others. The environment is constantly changing in reaction to the pressures placed on it – whether these are from individual disturbances, natural disasters, climate change, or human beings. Our ecosystems thrive on cycles – natural ebbs and flows that are always keeping one another in check. We have tried to keep a delicate balance in our first issue of Safari News too – between the environmental news from the natural areas of southern Africa and beyond, and the adventures that travels to these areas will bring. We have tried to tell stories from South Africa, and also from reaches as far as Chad. We have tried to make sure that, whether you have picked up a copy of Safari News in a protected area, at the start of a hiking trail, in a lodge, in an airport, or in a mall, there will be something of interest for you to read here. We have packed Safari News full of information, travel ideas and magnificent wildlife. We offer something for the well travelled, and for those suffering from wanderlust. We offer you a window into adventure and rare experiences, and destinations you can reach after just a short drive. But most importantly, we offer you a glimpse into the diverse and wild African continent that drives our passion as travellers and environmentalists. We hope you enjoy the ebb and flow of what’s inside...
Living World
Chad’s rhinos
are settling in S
ix black rhinos from South Africa are settling into their new home in Zakouma National Park in Chad. This is the first time black rhinos will roam the central African country in 46 years. Chad used to be home to two subspecies of rhinos: the western black rhino and the northern white rhino. The northern white rhino disappeared from Chad several decades ago, and the last western black rhino was recorded in Zakouma in 1972. Both subspecies were later declared extinct in the country, owing to decades of poaching. In a landmark move to reintroduce the species, the governments of South Africa and Chad signed a memorandum of understanding in late 2017 to enable the translocation of a founder population of black rhinos to Zakouma. Zakouma is managed by African Parks, a non-profit organisation that takes on the responsibility for the rehabilitation and management of national parks in partnership with governments and local communities. The rhinos were transported from Addo Elephant National Park in May, after being held in bomas for three months. The translocation took place under the watchful eye of SANParks and African Parks veterinarians. “By establishing a viable and secure rhino population of rhino in Chad, we are contributing to the expansion of the rhino population in Africa, and the survival of a species that has faced high levels of poaching for the past decade,” said Minister of Environmental Affairs, Dr Edna Molewa, when witnessing the loading and departure of the rhinos. The translocation forms part of the African Rhino Conservation Plan,
government, and with support of which aims to grow the number of the local communities, poaching rhinos across the continent over the has practically been eliminated, next five years. according to Heydlauff. There are fewer than 25 000 rhinos “We have spent the last eight years left in Africa’s wilderness, of which making the park safe and getting it only 5 000 are black rhinos. Poaching ready for the rhino’s return,” she says. has had a devastating effect on rhino “Safety has been restored and wildlife numbers across the world. is now thriving, which has allowed for “The long-term plan involves tourism and other benefits to flood bringing up to 20 individuals the area. from different places back into Zakouma to create “It’s possible that a genetically rich this population could founder population There are fewer really grow and that can breed and than 25 000 thrive, and even help grow within the park,” to repopulate other says Andrea Heydlauff, rhinos alive in areas in central chief marketing and Africa’s wilderness safe and north Africa communications where rhinos were officer for African once present,” adds Parks. Heydlauff. Zakouma has had a tragic past “What we’re seeing here are with poaching. extreme human efforts to reBetween 2002 and 2010, 90% of engineer this mess humans have the elephant population was lost. made, and help a species that has But since African Parks assumed been on this planet for millions of management of the park in 2010, years.” in partnership with the Chadian
Top and above: The rhinos are settling well in their new home in Zakouma National Park. Photos: Kyle de Nobrega
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Wild Earth
Are our
leopards
Did you know? • Leopards are opportunistic hunters. They prey on anything from crickets to kudus.
in trouble?
• When one leopard is killed there is a chance several others will die due to the reproductive behaviour of the species. “Leopards don’t help raise cubs, but they do provide security for their females, protecting them from new males,” says Tristan Dickerson, who managed the MunYaWana Leopard Project.
Conservationists are concerned that leopard populations may be under more threat than ever before. By Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld
• Leopards are versatile carnivores. “They are solitary and fairly catholic in their tastes,” says Parker. “They will eat anything from a large antelope to a small mouse, which makes it easy for them to live in a variety of habitats.”
O
nce upon a time, leopards could be found all over South Africa – from the vast open expanses of the Free State to the Drakensberg Mountains, throughout the Northern Cape and beyond. Despite being opportunistic hunters and occurring in all biomes of South Africa, they have become extinct in 67% of the country – particularly in areas of high human density. “Leopards are being indiscriminately slaughtered, without the proper protection from government,” says Fred Berrangé, founder of the Leopard Conservation Project (LCP). “Time is no longer a luxury we can afford in leopard conservation.” Leopards are notoriously secretive and it is difficult to get exact readings on numbers. But, says Berrangé, “all research conducted on leopards supports the fact they are declining at an alarming rate in their natural habitat outside of wildlife reserves.” While these mammals are better protected within national parks and nature reserves, 68% of remaining leopard habitat is outside legally protected areas. “Habitat loss, habitat fragmentation, prey depletion and conflict with people are some of the biggest factors threatening leopards at the moment,” says Prof Daniel Parker, associate professor at the University of Mpumalanga, who oversees a number of leopard research projects in southern Africa. Leopards are known to kill each other when vying for territory, and many are killed by other natural threats, such as snakes, disease and malnutrition. A study conducted in South Africa by researchers from Durham University showed leopard density in Limpopo’s Soutpansberg Mountains had decreased by 44% between 2012 and 2016. “This is especially alarming considering that in 2008 this area had one of the highest leopard population densities in Africa,” says Durham’s Dr Samual Williams.
Our top picks for spotting leopard • Dulini River Lodge This lodge is particularly well known for its leopard populations. Experience excellent game viewing near the Sand River on morning, afternoon and evening game drives as well as guided walking safaris. From R13 500 per person sharing. • Leopard Hills Safari Lodge As its name eludes, Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve in Sabi Sands is great for leopard sightings. The expertly trained guides and trackers always ensure a first class game-viewing experience. Each private suite is glass-fronted to truly bring visitors close to nature. From R15 000 per person sharing. Visit www.safari.com to book and start your leopard sighting adventure!
Illegal human activities like shooting, snaring and poisoning are the leading causes of death in the leopards tracked in the Soutpansberg. “If things don’t change, we predict leopards will essentially disappear from the area by about 2020,” says Williams. To make matters worse, many believe the current restrictions on leopard hunting haven’t stopped the killing of leopards. “Farmers with livestock who had leopards present on their farms now often resort to killing leopards, because there is no incentive to tolerate them and the losses of their livestock,” says Simon Naylor, manager of &Beyond Phinda Private
Game Reserve, who was involved with the MunYaWana Leopard Project set up around Phinda with Panthera. Through a lucrative 10-year leopard research and awareness project, Phinda was able to double and stabilise a previously dwindling population. Together with Ezemvelo KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife, interventions were set up for sustainable leopard trophy hunting and a leopard management programme for cattle farmers and ranchers. The LCP is also working closely with farmers, conservation bodies and other research organisations to address areas of concern regarding leopards, their habitat and ways to manage them effectively. The
LCP has successfully captured, transported and relocated 270 leopards over the last 18 years, removing them from high-risk areas to spaces where they can be better protected. In 2016, leopards were uplisted to Vulnerable on the global IUCN Red List and the Red List of Mammals of South Africa, emphasising concern over their conservation status.
Leopards are notoriously secretive and it is difficult to get exact readings on numbers, but they are still conserved inside reserves and protected areas. Photos: Graeme Kearney Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 7
Living World
DROUGHT: freshwater fish
and its impact on
C
ape Town and surrounds have seen one of the worst droughts in living memory. While there have been severe droughts in the past, what is exacerbating the impact of this drought is the need for water that has increased exponentially, compared to 60 years ago. The increase in human settlement, and agricultural and industrial development, has placed more demand on water supply. Many rivers were at very low levels during the peak of the drought between December and March, and some stopped flowing. Some wetlands dried up and there were areas of fynbos vegetation in protected areas where plants died in substantial numbers. The link between rainfall in ecologically healthy mountain catchment areas that then sustain
ecologically healthy wetlands and rivers is a vital one in ensuring that dams downstream receive optimal amounts of clean, healthy water. Indigenous fish are a critical part of this link, and the presence of good numbers of indigenous fish in Cape waters is an indication that the water is of high quality and the rivers and dams have good habitats. However, many river reaches and dams in the Western Cape have few indigenous fish, because of the severe predatory and competitive impacts of invasive fish species like black bass, trout, carp and sharptooth catfish. Most indigenous fish in the Cape region are small and are readily gobbled up by invasive fish. Not surprisingly, this region has the highest numbers of threatened fish found in South Africa. Threatened
fish are nowadays most commonly found in the upper reaches of rivers that remain in good ecological condition and have few if any invasive fish. But severe droughts reduce the habitat available. If pollutants are present, then the lack of water concentrates the pollutants and these can reach levels where fish get sick and die. Fish surveys undertaken during the peak of the drought revealed that habitat specialist fish such as the endangered Berg River redfin (Pseudobarbus burgi) have disappeared from large sections of mountain streams due to a lack of habitat. What was encouraging during these surveys though, was to find good numbers of indigenous fish, including redfins, in the remaining
deeper pools. These obviously act as vital refuges in times of drought. Low water levels in dams can mean poor water quality and less food for the concentrated fish stocks, leading to stressed fish and disease outbreaks. On a positive note, the rains seem to have returned to the southwestern Cape at the time of writing this article and one can only hope for an excellent rainy season this winter to provide dams and rivers with sufficient water to meet the needs of people and the natural environment that sustains us. – Dean Impson, senior scientist with CapeNature. Visit www.capenature. co.za for more info.
Above: Theewaterskloof Dam levels were very low in the midst of the drought.
Addo predators not just lion around
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here has been a buzz of activity among the lions in Addo Elephant National Park since two new males were introduced in April. Not only has the introduction caused other lions in the park to move around more and continuously mark their territory, but they have also been very vocal at night. The move was made in order to control rapid population growth through mimicking natural territorial takeovers by introducing more dominant males. It is still too early to say whether this intervention will have the desired effect. Addo conservation manager John Adendorff explains that lions in small systems become comfortable in their 10:52 surroundings and don’t move around looking for new territories. They also
breed faster. “We have to try and stop the growth curve,” he says. When male lions take over prides in natural systems, they are known to kill cubs that are not their own. “There has been interaction between the coalitions, but we haven’t lost any lions in the process,” says Adendorff. When lions are introduced, they spend a lot of time figuring out where they stand in the social hierarchy. “Females then also don’t come into oestrus all the time,” says Adendorff. By monitoring the collared lions, management has picked up a lot of changes since the introduction. “We have seen some interesting pattern changes,” says Adendorff. “Animals are now in areas where they haven’t been historically. This also gives the prey
base a bit of a release from the pressure of continuous predation.” The newcomers on the other hand are still very elusive. “They stick to the thicket and move around quite a bit,” he adds. Adendorff says if natural systems are not mimicked, an alternative is to sell lions. “But with canned lion hunting and the lion bone trade, you have no idea where these animals will end up.” Another option is contraceptives, but using these alone limits the gene flow between populations. In addition, two lions from Addo went to Mountain Zebra National Park, and two from that park now call the Karoo National Park home. Time will tell if the move benefits the population in the long run. – René de Klerk
Living World
Endangered tree boosted
L
arge trees are hard to come by in the Cederberg area. Yet, when you reach the higher altitudes, there is proof the Clanwilliam cedar tree (Widdringtonia cedarbergensis) is still around. Albeit rare and fighting for survival, this critically endangered species has a final refuge in the Cederberg Wilderness Area. These trees occur nowhere else on earth, which makes protecting them crucial. Their long-term survival is constantly in jeopardy, but conservationists are saving the species through planting initiatives. On May 19, 200 conservationists, school children and families gathered in the village of Heuningvlei for the 16th Annual Clanwilliam Cedar Tree Planting Ceremony, a conservation effort that resulted in 380 trees being planted this year. Since the inception of the initiative, 3 300 trees have been planted – 1 800 in the wilderness and 1 500 in Heuningvlei. Unfortunately, many of the trees have succumbed to wildfires. Rika du Plessis, CapeNature conservation manager at Algeria in the Cederberg, says wildfires are a major threat to the existing population. “We had a fire in December 2016 where 32 000 hectares burned. Because of the low rainfall in 2017, the vegetation has not yet recovered,” says du Plessis. She says climate change is having a negative effect on the trees, which flourished during the Ice Age. Du Plessis says longterm data shows 2017 was the driest in 65 years. “We have an average of 800mm per year, but only had 263mm last year,” she explains. There was not enough rainfall for seeds to germinate. CapeNature collects seeds at the end of summer for propagation at the Bushmans Kloof Nursery, which then forms part of the annual tree planting initiative. – René de Klerk
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Have you seen these
BIRDS? T
he southern ground-hornbill is regionally endangered in southern Africa, and globally vulnerable. Habitat alteration, electrocution and collisions with energy infrastructure, poisoning and persecution have caused population declines in South Africa. Only 1 500 southern ground-hornbills remain in South Africa, most of which are in protected areas. Ongoing research, coordinated by the Mabula Ground-Hornbill Project, is building insight for a national reintroduction programme. Research specifically identifies vacant sites in the historic range of the birds, where new founder groups can be established. A state-of-the-art ground-hornbill rearing centre is being built at Loskop Dam in Mpumalanga, where harvested chicks will be reared for captive breeding and reintroduction programmes. Reintroduction initiatives are already underway at sites in Limpopo and Mpumalanga, and release techniques for this socially complex species are being refined. The birds live in cooperative breeding groups of between two 10:16 and 11 individuals, occupying yearround territories. They can live up
to the age of 40. Each group has an alpha pair and non-breeding male subordinate helpers. They nest in natural cavities in large trees and cavities on rock faces, laying a clutch of one to two eggs. Breeding pairs rear only one chick every five to nine years, making them slow breeders. Because of the scarcity of large natural nesting cavities in the landscape, the birds often don’t have
Top: An alpha-female southern groundhornbill. Above: A harvested secondhatched southern ground-hornbill chick. Photos: Kate Carstens
suitable places to nest. However, the provision of artificial nest boxes is a successful conservation tool to enhance breeding success. And as the chick from the secondlaid egg invariably succumbs to dehydration, these chicks can be harvested for captive rearing, without any negative effect on the chick from the first-laid egg. A southern ground-hornbill biodiversity management plan is being developed in partnership with the Department of Environmental Affairs, provincial authorities, and stakeholders. Researchers are confident these efforts will achieve a reversal in the decline of the species in South Africa. If you are fortunate enough to see a group of ground-hornbills, you can submit your sightings, with photographs if possible, to the Mabula Ground-Hornbill Project website on www.ground-hornbill.org. za. You can also send a whatsapp pin location to +27 83 289 8610. – Rob Little, manager of the Department of Science and Technology – National Research Foundation Centre of Excellence at the FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology, University of Cape Town.
Proud supporters of conservation
Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 9
Living World
SAVING
Africa’s rarest bird
E
ver heard of the white-winged flufftail? Most people have not! The bird was selected as the 2013 Bird of the Year by BirdLife South Africa and dubbed the country’s rarest bird. The global population is estimated at only 250 individuals, with approximately 50 of those occurring in South Africa. The species is labelled as Critically Endangered as it faces a high risk of extinction in the near future. BirdLife is working to ensure this is not the first South African bird to meet the same fate as the Mauritian dodo. The bird is a high-altitude wetland specialist and is only known to occur in wetlands located at the headwaters of rivers in the eastern Highveld. Known sites for the species include Wakkerstroom, Ntsikeni Nature Reserve and Middelpunt Wetland in Dullstroom. A dedicated team of researchers and supporters from BirdLife, Middelpunt Wetland Trust, the African Eurasian Waterbird Agreement, Eskom, the Department
BirdLife is working to expand the camera trap survey to more wetlands where white-winged flufftails are thought to occur of Environmental Affairs and Airports Company South Africa are working together to save the whitewinged flufftail. Surveys have only found them present in South Africa during the summer months, and it is thought they migrate to Ethiopia during the South African winter. Until this year, the only known breeding site for these elusive birds was Berga Wetland in Ethiopia. On 11 January 2018, the first evidence of breeding white-winged flufftails was captured in Middelpunt Lufthansa 50x275.pdf 3 20/06/2018 10:16 Wetland on camera traps set up by
BirdLife. Robin Colyn, lead researcher at BirdLife, looked at the image on his computer screen in disbelief. The photo showed a female whitewinged flufftail leading three newly hatched, black, fluffy chicks through the wetland. Several other images of juvenile white-winged flufftails moving through the wetland began to emerge as more data was captured. The finding has fundamentally altered everything previously known about these secretive birds. BirdLife is working to expand the camera trap survey to more wetlands
where white-winged flufftails are thought to occur. Using the camera traps, they hope to improve the current population estimates and distribution records for the species. The major threat to the survival of the white-winged flufftail is habitat destruction.
This is largely caused by mining and agriculture-related activities, such as crop farming, afforestation, overgrazing, water draining, damming, peat fires and erosion. BirdLife is drafting habitat management guidelines to assist landowners to manage their properties in ways that will ensure the survival of whitewinged flufftails. – Melissa Whitecross, Threatened Species project manager at BirdLife South Africa’s Terrestrial Bird Conservation Programme. Read more about white-winged flufftails and research at www.birdlife.org.za
Above: Celebrating the capture of a white-winged flufftail at Middelpunt Wetland. Left: A white-winged flufftail photographed in Ethiopia. Photos: Niall Perrins and Sergey Dereliev
Proud supporters of conservation
Page 10 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
Living World
Searching for elusive rare rabbit a major challenge areas and occur in renosterveld, Tucked away in the heart of the fynbos, and succulent veld. For now, Klein Karoo, between Touws River, Anysberg remains the only declared Montagu and Barrydale, lies a crucial protected area where they have been conservation area – the Anysberg seen. Sanbona Wildlife Reserve also Nature Reserve. For 30 years it has has a healthy population. Bonnie offered a safe haven for many a Schumann, senior field officer at plant and animal species, some of the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s them completely hidden from the (EWT) Drylands enthusiasts who Conservation try to find them. Programme One of these confirms most of elusive creatures the riverine rabbits is the critically occur on private endangered land. “The survival riverine rabbit. of the rabbit is The rabbits were in the hands of discovered in these land users,” the reserve in Schumann says. 2013, but not This is one of the long after, they reasons the EWT decided to give collaborates with conservationists organisations the hop around. to promote “We saw them biodiversity on camera traps conservation in 2014, and outside formally have conducted protected areas. several foot and Features to look Schumann says night surveys people often report since then, but out for include seeing riverine without success,” broad ears and rabbits, but they explains Anysberg a distinct black are difficult to conservation distinguish from manager Marius stripe along their common hares and Brand. The riverine lower cheeks. red rock rabbits. rabbits were also Some features missing from to look out for camera traps include broad ears and a distinct placed in the field last year by a black stripe along their lower cheeks. researcher. “We don’t know why they Riverine rabbits have brown tails have gone,” says Brand. like the red rock rabbits, but red The rabbits are difficult to rock rabbits are restricted to rocky find, confirms Corne Claassen, hills. As technology such as thermal conservation services manager at cameras and drones becomes more CapeNature. The riverine rabbits accessible, the EWT is looking at found in Anysberg are restricted to alternative ways of detecting rabbits the far western point in the reserve for mapping distribution. and can, of course, move around. The EWT is also using camera traps “It is difficult to say with certainty to determine habitat use, activity that they are indeed absent in the patterns and occupancy. “Riverine area,” says Claassen. “A lot of luck is rabbits are exceptionally difficult involved in finding them.” to study,” says Schumann. “They Riverine rabbits are habitatare solitary, and experts at staying specific and occur along alluvial soil invisible. Searching for them is like in seasonal rivers. Their habitat, if searching for a needle in a haystack, intact, consists of dense patches of but more difficult.” riparian vegetation. This is also prime Have you seen a riverine rabbit? habitat for cultivation on private land. Send the photos and details to According to Claassen, the habitat is bonnies@ewt.org.za underrepresented in protected areas. The riverine rabbit is also found in the southern Cape, where they are Lufthansa 50x275_Final.pdf 1 20/06/2018 10:52 Photo: Tony Camacho not closely associated with riverine
Artificial wetlands a possible answer to pollution
L
arge amounts of freshwater in South Africa are polluted, which is not good news in a water- scarce country. What makes matters worse is sewage treatment plants release water back into rivers, dams and the ocean – and this water often does not meet quality requirements. However, a small pilot project in the village of De Rust in the Klein Karoo has proven there are alternatives to assist with the purification process. The simple answer to water pollution can be found in vegetation already growing in the vicinity, placed on structures to create artificial wetland islands. While the concept has been used internationally, it is relatively unexplored in South Africa. “To our knowledge, it is the only constructed wetland system in a municipal waste water treatment plant in South Africa,” says Luami Zondagh, marketing and communications activities coordinator for the Gouritz Cluster Biosphere Reserve (GCBR). Dubbed the Water Wise Wetland Project, it is just one of many innovative projects within the GCBR. Launched in 2017, the project was a dream of local resident Dieks Theron, who also assisted with the construction of the systems. At first, five long floats made from shade net and cold drink bottles saw the light, but due to numerous challenges these later led to the development of round island floats. The plants of choice for removing
toxins are bulrushes (Typha capensis) and common reeds (Phragmites australis) due to their ability to accumulate and stabilise nutrients and contaminants. The plants are mounted on structures with their roots in the water, a process known as phytoremediation. The project is in its infancy, but has already achieved tremendous success and might even be implemented at other plants in the future. The project is well on its way to releasing safe, clean water back into the catchments. “We are not sure of the viability of replacing the full chemical treatment process with phytoremediation alone,” says Zondagh, “but adding it to the process will allow for healthier downstream environments.” The GCBR was recognised by Unesco in 2015 and is a citizens’ initiative dedicated to the conservation of the biodiversity in the region, tied to socioeconomic development for the wellbeing of everyone who lives there. It is the only area in the world where three recognised biodiversity hotspots – namely fynbos, succulent Karoo and Maputoland-Tongoland-Albany – converge. It covers an area of over 3 million hectares. – René de Klerk
Above: Volunteer David Ruiters demonstrates how the plant roots access water in the dams. Photo: Luami Zondagh
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Living World
Gear Guide The latest outdoor gear to take along on your next trip
For heavy packing Need some extra carrying space for your luggage? The Thule Touring M Roof Box (R8 999) is simple, secure and convenient. It has a dual-side opening for convenient mounting, loading and unloading, and a central locking system for maximum safety. Whether it’s for an active lifestyle, going on holiday, or you just always seem to need extra space, the Touring M Roof Box will do the trick. Visit www.thule.com for more info.
This season we’re loving...
CHEETAHS to make genetic contributions I
cheetah on cheetah fighting.” n December 2017, a powerful Non-profit organisation Saving the coalition of three male cheetahs Survivors assisted with darting the in the Pilanesberg National Park animals. After the capture, the three caused concern when they killed Pilanesberg males were split up. their own fathers. They were removed Two of them, together with a female from the reserve to prevent further from Rietvlei Nature Reserve, were infighting and inbreeding, and will relocated to Marakele National Park now play a larger role in the future near Thabazimbi. The third male was of cheetah conservation through the paired with another male to form Endangered Wildlife Trust’s (EWT) a new coalition in the Dinokeng Cheetah Metapopulation Project. Game Reserve near Pretoria. André This project not only takes care of Uys, group general manager at the introduction of these vulnerable Marataba Conservation who drove predators into new reserves, animals the introduction process in Marakele, are also exchanged to ensure says two males and a female the long-term genetic viability of released in 2017 are cheetahs in small, doing well. “Since fenced reserves. their release they have The cheetah within The Pilanesberg moved south into Pilanesberg have cheetah are the SANParks section highly desirable where they seem to genetics, so are sought unrelated to all have settled well.” after. “The Pilanesberg other cheetah The newcomers cheetah are unrelated should make a positive to all other cheetah in contribution by the metapopulation bringing new genetics into Marakele. because they colonised the reserve The 90 000-hectare property can from neighbouring farmland in support a cheetah population of up 2012,” says Steve Dell, field ecologist to 15 individuals. Established in 2011, at Pilanesberg. the metapopulation has grown from Cheetah dynamics are not always 217 cheetahs on 41 reserves to 332 straightforward. Litters generally on 53 reserves. Plans are underway consist of between one and six to introduce them to other reserves cheetahs while up to five at a time in South Africa, Malawi and possibly can be male. “Large male coalitions Zambia within the next two years. will kill single males or other smaller coalitions,” explains Vincent van der Merwe, Cheetah Metapopulation coordinator for the EWT. “Seven per Above: Cheetah litters are made up cent of cheetah mortalities in the of between one and six cheetahs. metapopulation are attributed to Photo: Rosie Miles
Uzwelo Bags, which are perfect for stashing your travel gear. They are made from recycled waste fabric, so are kind to the environment. The fabric is provided by Expand a Sign, who supply offcuts for the project. The bags are handmade by local women from the iBhungezi-Philangethemba Trust and iThembalethu in KwaZulu-Natal. This beach bag is R490. Choose from laptop, school, tablet, shopper, beach and surfing bags in various colours. Visit www.uzwelo.co.za for more.
Kids’ camping made easy Be the cool parent at the campsite! The Camp Junior Adventure range includes folding chairs, tents and sleeping bags. We love the wide range of colours, and the affordable prices. Chairs are R149, sleeping bags R249 and tents R299, from Makro. The kids will camp in style and have a weekend they’ll never forget.
Luxury on the road Foldable hammocks are all the rage right now. And why wouldn’t they be? They instantly turn any campsite into a relaxation den. This range is extremely comfortable and super easy to set up. From R1 499 at Makro.
Be APPY with The Tree App South Africa, R499 If you’re new to plant spotting, trees can be intimidating. But The Tree App will help you ID even the trickiest specimen. The app allows users to search for specific trees or get an idea of the trees growing in different regions. With just a touch, it reveals which nearby trees are endangered, or those that
might be poisonous. The app’s GPS facility narrows down the search to trees occurring within a 12.5km radius of the chosen location. With its advanced search function, you’ll be identifying the tree right in front of you within seconds. The extensive insight and info in the app are a huge bonus. Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 13
Wild Earth
The facts • Blue cranes are listed as Vulnerable by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). • The blue crane is South Africa’s national bird. • These birds mate for life, and every breeding season the male and female dance together to reinforce and strengthen the bond between them. • Their natural habitat is open grasslands, one of South Africa’s dwindling habitats, but they have adapted well to agricultural pastures and crop fields.
Blue cranes – a story of hope
Blue cranes are synonymous with the South African landscape, and a key part of the country’s national heritage. Can farmers and conservationists work together to bring this vulnerable species back from the brink? By Alouise Lynch
O
n the southern tip of Africa, a heavily transformed landscape, a story of hope unfolds every day. In the Overberg region, one of the strongholds of the blue crane (Anthropoides paradiseus), organisations and landowners have joined forces to conserve this iconic species. These birds have the most restricted range of any of the world’s 15 crane species, and are endemic to southern Africa, with more than 99% of the world’s blue cranes found in South Africa. But habitat transformation and loss over the decades has caused blue cranes to move into agricultural areas, where they compete with livestock for food and cause damage to crops. As a result, in the 1970s and 1980s, they were targets of mass poisoning, causing the birds to die in droves. South Africa’s blue crane population suffered a drastic decline of up to 80% in some parts of the country during this period. The impact on the population was so great it was reduced to only 21 000 birds in the wild. The Overberg Crane Group (OCG) has been working to address the plight of blue cranes with local Lufthansa 50x275_Final.pdf 1 20/06/2018 communities in the Overberg region. The group conducts awareness
Page 14 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
campaigns about the threats cranes face, and how farmers can assist. Over the years, response from the agricultural sector has been favourable, and farmers and landowners are now the proud custodians of blue cranes in the Overberg. Cranes still face threats from power line collisions, fence entanglements and unintentional poisoning. The birds are vulnerable 10:52 to electrocution from power line structures and face the possibility
of colliding with wires that are not visible to them as they fly. In 2016 and 2017, the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), in collaboration with Eskom and OCG, fitted 15 satellite trackers onto blue cranes in the Overberg. Monitoring and research via the project focuses on identifying and describing blue crane roosting and nesting sites. The research also documents seasonal movements of breeding and nonbreeding cranes, and describes current land-use patterns and
home ranges of breeding birds. This contributes to the understanding behind the success of the birds in the Overberg. “Current and future research is vital to fully understand how safe and secure the blue crane population really is,” says Tanya Smith, EWT’s regional manager of the African Crane Conservation Programme. Today, farmers have taken the welfare of these birds into their own hands by actively avoiding agricultural activity around nesting sites, reporting mortalities and entanglements to the Overberg Crane Group, and assisting with rescues where possible. This collaboration has resulted in a conservation success story. The current population of blue cranes – a key part of the national heritage – is 25 000 birds strong, and increasing by the year. Alouise Lynch is the director of Bionerds, which upholds biodiversity conservation through supporting living landscapes. Visit www.bionerds.co.za for more.
Above: Blue cranes are an iconic part of South African heritage. Thanks to conservation efforts by groups such as the Overberg Crane Group and Endangered Wildlife Trust, their populations are finally on the increase. Photos: Andre Botha and Bionerds
Wild Earth
LEADERS of the pack
In Mozambique’s Gorongosa National Park, populations of endangered wild dogs disappeared during the Civil War. But a new pack introduced into the park is set to restore populations. By Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld
A
fter decades of civil war in Mozambique, wild dogs have been absent from Gorongosa National Park (GNP), an area that was once a natural home to thriving packs of the species. But 26 years after the war, the chirping and bleating of wild dogs are once again familiar sounds in the park. This is welcome news in the conservation of the world’s most endangered carnivore; the African wild dog is extinct in 23 African countries. In a joint initiative with the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), a group of 14 wild dogs has been reintroduced into Gorongosa National Park – the first time the species has been reintroduced into Mozambique. Experts hope the move will assist with the recovery of wild dog populations in the country. “The reintroduction of wild dogs in the park has huge significance,” says Gorongosa wildlife veterinarian António Paulo. “We are fulfilling the main goal of the Gorongosa Restoration Project, which is the recovery of the wildlife population lost during the 16-year civil war.” At 400 000 hectares in size, the large open spaces of the park – known as one of the wildest places on earth – will offer a safe haven for these roaming carnivores. There is currently a healthy population of wild dogs in northern Mozambique around Lake Nyasa, near the border of Tanzania, but in central and southern Mozambique the population is nearly non-existent. “Wild dog populations are generally decreasing across Africa,” says EWT carnivore conservation programme manager and chair of the Wild Dog Advisory Group of South Africa, David Marneweck. “While there was a downward trend in South Africa’s populations, we have managed to reverse that by managing the population of wild dogs.” Through reintroductions,
translocations, and working towards understanding genetics and demographics, the EWT has made major strides in wild dog conservation. These efforts have led to a 100% increase in numbers. Because the population in South Africa is now a healthy size, the EWT is focusing efforts on introducing wild dogs in spaces outside its borders. “In the face of the global decline, we are bold enough to do something positive for the species,” says Marneweck. “We are trying to change the paradigm so that wild dogs are not doomed.” “Wild dogs have not been confirmed in the park since the war and having these hunters back in action in this ecosystem will be a major boost for the ecology of the park,” says Paola Bouley, Gorongosa’s associate director of carnivore conservation. “As coursing hunters – or hunters that persist in chasing down their prey – they very much complement the function of our famous ambush predator, the Gorongosa lion.” The conservation potential of Gorongosa has finally been restored after years of conflict and illegal hunting during the Civil War took a toll on game populations. In 2008, the government of
Mozambique teamed up with US non-profit organisation, the Carr Foundation, to bring back to life a vast and diverse natural ecosystem over a 25-year period. Wildlife is now thriving in the park, with numbers of herbivores having made a strong comeback. The current population of waterbuck in the park, for example, stands at 50 000. With the abundance of herbivores, the natural next step is the return of large carnivores. The lion population in the park has already been re-established, and now the park is focusing on its new wild dog pack. Gorongosa’s founder pack came from South Africa’s EWTmanaged metapopulation, which is made up of individual populations within a selection of managed national parks and reserves. The females were from a freeroaming pack in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). “We caught the females and separated them from the males of their pack, because they were highly related,” says Marneweck. The male wild dogs in the new Gorongosa pack were originally from uMkhuze Game Reserve, but had broken out of the park. The EWT, along with local partners Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, the KZN State Veterinary Department, Wildlife ACT, Maremani Game
Gorongosa National Park is located in the central region of Mozambique, in the Great Rift Valley.
The facts • Painted wolf: The African wild dog’s scientific name is Lycaon pictus. • 14: The number of wild dogs reintroduced into Gorongosa National Park. • Social hierarchy: Like other pack animals, wild dogs have a strict hierarchy. An alpha breeding pair is in charge of the group and the rest of the pack are subordinates. • 400 000: The number of hectares within Gorongosa National Park, now home to a new pack of wild dogs.
Reserve, LEDET, and The Bateleurs, caught the two groups of wild dogs. Once captured, the two groups were placed in the boma at Pongola Nature Reserve in KZN, where they were given the opportunity to bond and forge a new pack. In Gorongosa, the pack was given time to habituate to the new surroundings in the boma for a few weeks before being released. The pack is currently being monitored by the Gorongosa project’s carnivore conservation team, who have been trained by the EWT in wild dog recovery and management. “Gorongosa is very proud to be playing a key role in recovering this endangered species in the region,” says Bouley. “The ecology of this park will never be the same again.”
Above: The wild dogs are settling in well at Gorongosa. Photos: Supplied Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 15
Spotlight
Where’s our sense of
PRIDE?
With the lion-bone trade in the headlines, and an increase in the number of accidents taking place on lion farms, the captive-bred lion industry is in the spotlight. By Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld
W
hen a lion was shot in April after attacking its owner on a game farm in Thabazimbi, Limpopo, there was a public outcry surrounding the ethics of the treatment of captive-bred lions. South Africa’s captive lion industry holds 6 000 to 8 000 animals in up to 250 breeding facilities around the country – and these are just those on official record. The horrors of the captive-bred lion industry have been in the spotlight for the last few years, first after shocking revelations were made in the documentary Blood Lions, and more recently after the release of Richard Peirce’s scathing account of the industry, Cuddle Me Kill Me. In Cuddle Me Kill Me, Peirce, a veteran wildlife campaigner, reveals disturbing facts about the industry, detailing the severe cruelty faced by many lions in captivity. From being taken away from their mothers just hours after birth to struggling with disabilities caused by inbreeding, suffering abuse while being broken in for activities such as ‘walking with lions’, and being drugged in the lead-up to captive hunts, lions face immeasurable exploitation and misery within this industry. “There is a production line aspect to this,” says Peirce, remarking on the husbandry he witnessed or came into contact with in many lion breeding operations. “It’s like going to a cattle farm, chicken farm or pig farm. This sentient being that lives in a pride, in a family, is turned into a mass-produced, production line, farmed animal.” South Africa allows for the hunting of captive-bred lions. It is currently legal for lions to be bred for various commercial purposes, including cub petting, photographic tourism, hunting, and the farming of bones. Between 2003 and 2013, nearly 7 500 lion trophies left the country, the vast majority from what the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) termed “canned hunts”. This is largely due to the fact that the lines around canned lion hunting are blurred under current legislation. Every day, at least two captive-bred lions are killed in canned hunts, according to the team behind Blood Lions. But small victories are emerging in the battle. In June, a Free
Page 16 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
In Cuddle Me Kill Me (Struik Nature, R200), Richard Peirce offers a scathing account of South Africa’s captive lion breeding and canned hunting industry.
State man pleaded guilty to contravening the Biodiversity Act for allowing the hunting of captive-bred lions on his property without the necessary permits. Peirce’s accounts detail the journey of captive-bred lions, from the moment they are taken away from their mothers when just a few hours old to be used in the voluntourism industry. Unsuspecting volunteers
“They are served up in fenced enclosures for execution by canned hunters” are led to believe they are assisting conservation by rearing orphaned lion cubs, and are charged a handsome sum to do so. Thereafter, cubs are made a tourist attraction in cub-petting activities, before being used in outings where tourists can pay to walk with lions in the bush. “In the final stage of exploitation, they are served up in fenced enclosures for execution by canned hunters – or
simply shot by breeders for the value of their carcass, a prized product in the East,” says Peirce. In recent years, more demand has been made for the exportation of lion bones, and South Africa is one of the largest legal markets for the exportation of lion bones for use in traditional medicine in Asia. In 2017 the SA government set a legal quota of 800 lion skeletons for export. “South Africa has a world-class conservation reputation and the captive breeding of lions for hunting and their bones is detracting from this,” says Dr Kelly Marnewick, EWT Wildlife in Trade Programme senior trade officer. In May, shocking reports emerged on the poor condition of what has been dubbed a ‘lion abattoir’ in the Free State. Media reports detailed 73 lions were shot on the farm for export of their bones to Asia. The story made headlines when permits for the transportation and killing of the lions were revoked and operations were halted. The SPCA opened a case of animal cruelty as two lions were allegedly held in a crate for days without water or food, before being killed. “We remain concerned that the principles of ecological sustainability have been obscured by the
increasing commodification of our wildlife resources,” says Marnewick. “We are further concerned about the links between legal lion bone trade and notorious smuggling syndicates.” In May, following the Thabazimbi incident, the EWT, together with Blood Lions, Panthera, Wild Trust, the National Association of Conservancies, and Wildlife Act sent an open letter to Dr Edna Molewa, Minister of Environmental Affairs. The letter called for stricter regulations for the management of carnivores held in captivity, and highlighted 37 incidents where people have been seriously injured by captive carnivores in South Africa. “There are clearly significant risks posed by the interactions between humans and captive carnivores, and it is worrying that despite this, the sector remains ineffectively regulated,” the letter stated. “We are going to wait an awfully long time for the right legislation,” says Peirce. “But trying to affect the consumer market is something that we can do.”
Above: Lions, tigers and other predators are being factory farmed in South Africa. Photo: Pippa Hankinson, Blood Lions
Wild Earth
Will the sun go down on
cycads?
Without drastic action, South Africa may need to bid adieu to some of its most precious species, says Willem van Staden
S
outh Africa is considered one of the world’s centres of cycad diversity, with more than half of the African continent’s cycads occurring in the country. Mpumalanga is home to eight species, and conservation teams are constantly working to protect and restore cycad populations in the area. But with the plants under constant threat, this has become an ongoing battle. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) regards cycads as the most threatened group of organisms in the world, with many facing extinction as a direct result of human activities. There are 38 species of cycads in South Africa, with 37 belonging to the genus Encephalartos, and one belonging to the genus Stangeria. In Mpumalanga, the illegal collection of cycads for trade, horticultural and medicinal (muthi) purposes threatens populations. Habitat loss, destruction and alien invasive plants are also threats to the cycads. Historical and recent monitoring data reveals the Kaapsehoop cycad has been reduced from 1 800 plants in 1998 to less than 100 plants today. The Blyde River cycad’s numbers have dropped from 1 100 plants to less than 50. In a case currently before the courts, an accused is charged with removing 150 plants of the woolly cycad (Encephalartos lanatus) from the wild. Several cases of theft have also been reported across the distribution of the Middelburg cycad. In another case before the courts, an accused
is charged with removing eight seedlings of the Barberton cycad from the wild. In many cases, perpetrators remove entire stems from the Lebombo cycad population for medicinal use. In April, the Department of Environmental Affairs, together with provincial government, published a Biodiversity Management Plan for Critically Endangered Cycads. Through this, the Mpumalanga province has committed to restoring cycad population numbers by means of reintroduction of seed, seedlings and adult plants. Building and maintaining good relationships with private landowners on whose land cycads occur forms an essential part of the strategy. Training police and conservation officials in the identification of cycads is aiding the protection of the species, and helping boost the enforcement of laws regarding cycads. Between 2003 and 2010, two cycad species were classified as extinct in the wild in South Africa as they no longer exist in their natural habitats. In Mpumalanga, if nothing is done, Heenan’s cycad, the Kaapsehoop cycad, the Blyde River cycad and the Middelburg cycad could all become extinct in the wild within the next five to ten years. – Willem van Staden is a botanist for the Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Agency scientific services team.
Right: A Middelburg cycad.
The facts • The Middelburg cycad and the woolly cycad occur in the Olifants River catchment area. Loskop Dam Nature Reserve plays an important role in the conservation of this cycad. • The little town of Kaapsehoop in Mpumalanga forms the centre of the distribution range of its namesake, the Kaapsehoop cycad.
• The dwarf cycad occurs in the grasslands between Nelspruit, Lydenburg and Machadodorp. • The Blyde River Nature Reserve is home to the Blyde River cycad. • The Songimvelo Nature Reserve is home to Heenan’s cycad and the Barberton cycad.
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Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 17
Books Rhino Revolution (Jacana) Clive and Anton Walker
Last year alone, more than 1 000 rhinos were killed in the country, 662 of them dying in the Kruger R280 National Park. But how will we stop this scourge? Clive Walker believes the situation is unlikely to change soon if we persist in believing that the enemy lies elsewhere in Southeast Asia; instead he wants us to look for positive solutions from within South a great addition to any book Africa. This insightful read is lover’s collection.
A Guide to the Garden Route (Jacana) Last year’s ferocious fires R260 along the Garden Route should not prevent you from visiting this beautiful paradise. This paperback is filled with 230 pages of upto-date information telling you where to go, what you can expect to see, and where to view whales, fauna and flora. The book is a welcome addition for anyone who wants to know about those hidden secrets of our natural twitcher, nature lover, guide heritage, whether you are a or holidaymaker.
Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 18
uropcar Safari News ad.indd 1
On the bookshelf No bush weekend is complete without a good read. Make sure you include one of these info-packed must-haves.
Frogs of Southern Africa (Struik Nature)
Louis du Preez & Vincent Carruthers
Want to learn more about the frogs of southern Africa? Then this comprehensive book is a must, as it covers every aspect of frog and tadpole behaviour and ecology. This edition features all 164 frog species in R450 southern Africa, complete with fully described stages, conservation status, calls, habitat and habits. The full-colour images plus QR identification easier and fun codes linked to calls make for the whole family.
Birding in South Africa’s National Parks (Jacana) Rob Little
This book is a must-have for birders planning a trip to any of South Africa’s National Parks. Not only is it the first R195 book dedicated to birding in these areas, it also contains interesting facts about where to look for them. It even identifies the top 10 birds to look out for in each park. Of the 700 regularly seen terrestrial bird species in parks. A worthy addition to South Africa, at least 640 can your birding collection. be found in the 19 national
Beat about the Bush: Exploring the Wild Trevor Carnaby
This guide tells you just about everything you want to know about the bush. The format is nothing like the usual field guide, but is presented in a question-and-answer format. It is guaranteed to keep the family entertained for hours. It includes R420 mammals, reptiles, birds, amphibians, invertebrates, plants, field signs and clues. Plus it features portraits and animals in all manner of photographs showing the circumstances.
2018/06/15 15:48
Wild Earth
Battling for survival The Facts Pangolins are the most trafficked animal in the world. But in the age of climate change, these mammals may face yet another threat – to their habitat, range and prey availability. By Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld
T
hey’ve been called the most illegally traded and soughtafter mammal in the world. But poaching is not the only menace to pangolins, a species that has become increasingly threatened over the past decade due to demand for its meat and scales for consumption, medicinal purposes and superstitious value. Little is known of the threat that climate change may pose on the habitats and range of the Temminck’s ground pangolin (Smutsia temminckii) in southern Africa. In the Northern Cape, the 110 000-hectare Tswalu Kalahari Reserve occupies a space that serves as the south-western edge of the ground pangolin distribution range. Here, University of Witwatersrand PhD candidate Wendy Panaino is studying the effects of climate change on pangolin physiology and behaviour, with the support of the Tswalu Foundation. “The illegal wildlife trade is the greatest threat to all pangolin species at present,” says Panaino. “If pangolins are not able to adapt to climate change, then this, superimposed on poaching, may lead to extirpation in some areas.” A recent study of weather data in South Africa revealed an increase in the maximum temperatures of South Africa’s arid regions. The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, for example, has seen an increase of 1.95°C in temperature over the past five decades. “If we wish to understand the effects of changing environments on pangolins, climate change ‘hotspot’ areas such as the Kalahari are ideal,” says Panaino.
For nearly three years she has been studying the behaviour, habitat requirements, general physiology and ecology of pangolins in the reserve, located just over 250km from Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Little is known about how pangolins might cope with the direct and indirect effects of a changing climate.
Using high-frequency transmitters to track the pangolins, and miniature biologging technology, Panaino has been recording fine-scale body temperature patterns of six pangolins at Tswalu. She has also spent time observing their behaviour, tracking their activity on camera traps, analysing scat, and monitoring diet and prey abundance through observations and pitfall trapping. Over the years, Panaino has witnessed some interesting behaviour in Tswalu’s pangolins. “I have been lucky enough to observe scent-marking, male-male interactions, females transporting their pups to new burrow sites and pangolins sand bathing,” she says. “I have also observed the growth and development of the pangolin pups through the use of camera traps placed outside the burrow,” she adds. The research will contribute to effective conservation and management practices of a species that is already severely threatened by the illegal wildlife trade. Linking data to climatic variables from the weather station in Tswalu, Panaino is able to gain great insight into the way pangolins are affected by changes in temperature. Any shift in activity or behaviour in the long run may reduce the foraging period for pangolins, and their overall energy intake. “Climate change is likely to affect pangolins both directly via increased environmental heat and aridity, and indirectly via changes in prey availability,” says Panaino. Pangolins may buffer the effects of climate change via behavioural mechanisms such as opting for
• There are eight species of pangolin in the world – four in Asia and four in Africa. • They are the most trafficked animal on the planet. • Pangolins don’t have teeth. They use their strong tongues to catch prey such as ants and termites. • When threatened, pangolins curl up into a tight ball. • Pangolins can live for up to 20 years. They give birth to one baby at a time, which catches rides on its mother’s back or tail.
nocturnal rather than daytime foraging, but Panaino will conduct more monitoring before reaching a conclusion on this behaviour.
Left: Wendy Panaino has been studying the behaviour and habits of pangolins in Tswalu Kalahari Reserve. Panaino observed the growth and development of the pangolin pups through the use of camera traps. Above: These mammals may adapt by opting for nocturnal foraging. Photos: Supplied
Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 19
Zoom In
Time to get
snapping Were you there to capture the moment? The magic? The light and colour? Enjoy our selection of pics from some of our favourite photographers. Here’s what they captured through their lenses. Send us your favourites from your travels and you stand the chance of having your photo turned into a painting by talented artist Graham Kearney.
Rose tinted: Pete Leyland captured this image of young cheetah cubs in Mountain Zebra National Park.
Bonding: Colin Grenfell took this photo of Addo Elephant National Park’s famous lioness Josie and her offspring.
Limelight: Farida Karim captured this swallow-tailed bee-eater in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
Cutout: Hein Welman’s crisp silhouette of a klipspringer was taken in Augrabies Falls National Park. Page 20 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
Winter walk: Cathy Withers-Clarke headed to the top of Camdeboo National Park to take in the panoramic views of the Valley of Desolation.
Zoom In
Send us your pics! To enter your photos and stand the chance of having your image turned into a painting by artist Graham Kearney, send your wildlife or landscape photos, along with your name and a description of where your pic was taken, to safari@caxton.co.za Afternoon tea: Paul Crosland spotted this large herd of gemsbok in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
Standing tall: Clive Wright captured this image of a young elephant calf at Marion Baree Waterhole in Addo Elephant National Park.
Starry nights: RenĂŠ de Klerk captured this image of the aloes under theKearney Milky Way at the Lang Elsies Kraal 15:04 Rest Graham 100x275.pdf 1 18/06/2018 Camp in Bontebok National Park.
Dust bath: Brett E Ellis found this young male lion lazing around in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
In the spotlight: Petro KotzĂŠ took a closer look at these quiver trees in Augrabies Falls National Park.
Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 21
60
years in partnership
total.co.za
2018 marks the 60th year of Total South Africa and South African National Parks’ partnership. The two organizations entered this partnership in 1958, for Total South Africa to provide fuel services to all national parks around the country. The partnership has seen Total South Africa not only establishing and operating 21 service stations but, over the years, Total has contributed extensively to several environmental projects at South African National Parks (SANParks), such as sponsorship of the Kudu Awards, Keep Kruger Clean and SA National Parks Week. Page 22 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018 SANParks advert.indd 1
2018/06/17 6:09 PM
Heritage
Find art
along the African Ivory Route
Once a thoroughfare that served elephant hunters and gold traders, Limpopo’s African Ivory Route now hosts an art experience steeped in history, mysticism and hope. By Alex Wright
F
or most, art as a prospect for long-term financial prosperity is a risky choice. But follow the African Ivory Route, the once prestigious migration pattern of meandering tuskers in southern Africa, and you’ll find a world of art and craft that is sustaining a whole community. In the little village of Mbhokota, you’ll find a group of creatives defying the odds. I head towards the village along with two fellow visitors and our guide, during a journey along the 2 000km Ivory Route. Our vanguard for the trip, Tshimangadzo ‘Nelson’ Maphaha, is a cultural guide who has forged connections between the locals of the region and those running the safari camps that serve as stopovers for tourists along the route. A proud resident of Venda, Nelson recalls the celebrations from the surrounding hills when Cyril Ramaphosa – who grew up not too many kilometres away from him – was elected president of the African National Congress. “We could hear them celebrating from my house,” he says. Turning off tar onto dirt in Mbhokota, we pass cows in yokes and chickens reared for sale shoved into iron cages. There are no flashy signs or instructions from Google Maps telling us to veer left. Outside a small building, right off the R578, we are greeted by the toothy smiles of a group of women, welcoming us to their office. Inside a dimly lit Twananani Textiles, vibrant shweshwe fabric, paint and manufacturing gear are scattered around tables and chairs. We sit down to make our own colourful tablecloths, etching shapes onto fabric with candle wax, and setting the forms onto cotton. Afterwards, the women carry on etching, sewing, and soaking their pieces, before placing them on display for the tourists who will surely stop by tomorrow. Heading for our next Ribola stop,
we set off into the mountains. Nestled in his own corner of the hills, we find Patrick Manyike, a sculptor, whose muse is a view stretching 360 degrees over the valley below. The children who live next door to Patrick giggle and play in the streets, popping in every few minutes to mess around in Patrick’s yard. Here, the large carved wood statues too big to fit inside Patrick’s house create a forest-like wonderland filled with fish, mermaids and otherworldly apparitions. Patrick uses lead and mopani wood to carve individual works, each laden with stories of religion, morality and the fight between good and evil. His sculpture Free Man is a silhouette of a man who is said to walk the streets free from any weight
on his shoulders. Angel sits next to him, adorned with metal around her face. She came down to connect us with the heavens, Patrick tells us. He used to clean up popcorn from the floor at a flashy tourist establishment, but the wood called him away. “I remove the excess, to reveal what is inside,” he says, standing next to a foundation that is set to be his gallery one day. “Soon, people will come from all over and look at my art in my gallery,” he adds, arms stretched out wide, grinning. Our next stop takes us to a young boy, Pilato Bulala. He uses metal scraps to create reflections of his reality. There are animals made from bicycle chains and old gears. Crucifixes and figurines adorn the plot of land that serves as his work
and show space. Pilato’s display table, underneath a cloth hung for shade, is dressed with earrings, necklaces and bracelets – all made from disused aluminium cans. “I wanted to create pieces from what was available around me,” he says. Our final stop is Vutshila Art School, an arts and crafts centre. We arrived to a djembe drum chorus of traditional songs. The band freestyles with drums, marimba and shakers. The sun is setting, and the band is still in full swing. I load Free Man and a pair of Coca-Cola earrings for my girlfriend into the car. I wish I had bought more, but none of it can really reflect the feeling of euphoria I carry with me as we continue on our journey along the African Ivory Route. – Alex Wright is founder of the African Travel Community, Habashwe. Visit www.habashwe. com for more. Above: Inside Twananani Textiles. Left and below: Locals display their crafts and creations for visitors to peruse.
The African Ivory Route covers 2 000km along the boundaries of Limpopo. This mountainous trail follows the legendary road taken by ivory hunters and gold traders. Along the way, you can visit the Ribola Art Route, which takes travellers into the homes, workshops and galleries of the artists of Mbhokota.
You can get crafty in Mbhokota and meet the artists working along the Ribola Art Route with a hop-on-hop-off tour. Visit www.africanivoryroute.co.za for more. Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 23
Wander
beats and sangomas
The Smoke that Thunders draws adventurous travellers from all corners of the globe every year. Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld headed to Victoria Falls in one of its wettest seasons in a while to experience the Zambezi and rainforest in its fullest glory.
T
he small town of Victoria Falls has changed drastically since the last time I was there. For one, a framed portrait of Emmerson Dambudzo Mnangagwa hangs to the right of the baggage collection point at Victoria Falls Airport, replacing the effigy of Robert Mugabe that occupied the same spot only a few months back. And this time round, when I see the sight of the clouds of water hanging above the falls from kilometres away, it leaves me giddy. “It’s the fullest I’ve seen them in six years,” a passenger returning home tells me as we wait for our bags to pop out onto the conveyer belt. Since February, the falls have been full after excessive rains. So full, in fact, that river rafting on the Zambezi and swimming in the pools on the lip of the falls is prohibited until the waters subside. “Niagara has nothing on these,” Sara, a seasoned Canadian traveller
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tells me later that day as we sip champagne on the deck of the Africa Albida Victoria Falls Safari Club, while watching the sun disappear. Sara’s hair is still damp from her trip to the falls earlier in the afternoon. At 1.7km wide, it’s hard to imagine anything rivalling Mosi-oa-Tunya, the Smoke that Thunders. As we watch the dark set in, a single white-backed vulture takes off, having lingered close to the site where the scavengers are fed at lunchtime, part of the Vulture Culture Experience set up by the lodge. With a new pool, restaurant and extended deck added recently, the Victoria Falls Safari Club has become a key home base for luxury travellers exploring Victoria Falls and the Zambezi National Park. While we enjoy dinner on the deck, we can hear the sound of nibbling in the bush, as elephants continue to
dine on the mopani trees around the waterhole below. At the falls the next morning, I have a euphoric moment as I huddle in the middle of a rainbow, dabbing the water off my lips as I hide my camera underneath a pink raincoat. I squint against the water, peering at the falls
only a few metres away. Curving its way along the gorge opposite the falls, the path through the Victoria Falls Rainforest is filled with surprises, including 17 viewpoints that provide panoramic scenes. Our guide for the day, Zulu, tells us the rainforest stays green throughout the year, sustained
Wander
Know before you go Stay: The Victoria Falls Club rooms are available from R2 400 per person per night sharing during high season (July to December 2018). Packages include bed and breakfast, mini bar, Wi-Fi, laundry, afternoon tea and pastries, sundowners and canapés. Visit www. africaalbidatourism.com for more. Travel: Flights can be booked via Fastjet, on www.fastjet.com. Prices quoted on the rand-dollar exchange rate at the time of going to print. Looking for a package that has it all? Try a nine-day Kruger and Victoria Falls Exploration. The combination of Kruger and Victoria Falls crafts a oncein-a-lifetime safari experience. The trip starts out at the renowned Ngala Safari Lodge in the Timbavati Game Reserve in Greater Kruger, where you will enjoy game drives, walking safaris and lots more. From here, head to Victoria Falls Safari Lodge in the Zambezi National Park. Just four kilometres from Victoria Falls, your location offers easy access to walking tours, helicopter and microlight flights over the falls, bungee jumping, bridge swinging, zip-lining, and more. From R59 880 per person sharing. Visit www.safari.com for more info.
Victoria Falls in western Zimbabwe is one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The town of Victoria Falls is found alongside the Zambezi National Park and the mighty Zambezi itself, and wild animals – even elephants – are seen wandering along the roads around the town.
by months of moisture provided by the dramatic spray from the falls. At lunchtime back at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, on the same estate as the Club, in between feasting on freshly caught bream and gin and tonics, we witness the Vulture Culture Experience just below
the deck. A dozen people gasp at the number and range of vultures landing to grapple over the meat scraps dished out on the ground. Zulu details the role of vultures in preventing the outbreak of disease as he points out the different species that have landed. White-headed, hooded, lappet-faced and whitebacked vultures hunch and huddle, while three marabou storks gobble up large meaty bones in single gulps. The feeding programme allows the threatened vulture numbers to be monitored. Leftover scraps from the on-site restaurants supplement their diet, but are not enough to sustain their total dietary needs, ensuring the birds do not become dependent on the handouts. As part of Africa Albida Tourism’s Green Steps to Sustainable
Tourism initiative, the Vulture Culture Experience aims to protect endangered vultures and educate visitors about these birds. In the late afternoon, as the sound of djembes carries in the air, we make our way to The Boma Dinner and Drum Show. I taste mopane worms, visit a sangoma who predicts riches in my future, bang my fingers numb on a djembe and move on the dance floor. Afterwards I head back to the mosquito-net cocoon of my king-size bed and listen for the sounds outside. A slight rustle murmurs in the bush as the music softens into distant echoes.
Main photo: Victoria Falls Rainforest has 17 viewpoints where you can look out over the falls. Far left: Victoria Falls Safari Club. Clockwise from top: Don’t miss sundowners on the Safari Club deck. The spray from the falls will leave your socks soaked. Victoria Falls resident rasta, Dexter, shows off an intricate universe of metal craft at Elephant Walk. His movable art creates a colourful portrait of everyday life in Zim. The warthogs can be heard and seen munching all around the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge estate. You could spend hours watching vultures around the lodge, or get to witness them in action during the Vulture Culture Experience. Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 25
Kids’ Corner
Wild scramble
THE
KIDS’ CORNER
Attention young bush lovers and adventurers! Are you a nature buff? Grab your crayons and pens and you’ll soon be on your way to becoming a conservation pro!
Can you find the hidden word using the clues below? fefagri: This is the tallest mammal in the world – even its newborn babies are taller than most humans. Their purple tongues can reach up to 50cm long. psongbirk: These antelope can be found in many natural areas, but not in Kruger. They have a rugby team named after them, and are also South Africa’s national animal.
Guess where? This World Heritage Site in Cape Town is home to thousands of fynbos species, and is sometimes cover ed in a blanket of clouds. You can ride up to the top in a cable car. This mountain can be seen from all around the city.
deahad: These long-legged birds are known for their loud calls. Their wings glisten in the sunlight. hepatnle: This large land mammal eats up to 300kg of food a day, and uses its big ears to cool down.
UR COLO ME IN
Find the Word! Which of the following are animals, birds, plants and places to look out for in the bush?
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Answers: Picture – Table Mountain • Scramble: Giraffe, Springbok, Hadeda and Elephant
ANT MOPANI NIGHTJAR CHAMELEON Slush Puppy 200x275_2.pdf 1 20/06/2018 OSTRICH KRUGER RHINO PROTEA 11:56 VULTURE BAOBAB
The ultimate
Less Travelled
wilderness experience on foot
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eep down, the thought of stopping and sitting in the shade of large rocks crossed my mind a few times. It was hot, my feet were sore and my backpack was supposed to be lighter as we were edging towards the finish line. With every step on large boulders in the dry riverbed my sore toes cursed me. The only relief from the boulders was the thick sandy patches, but they only came in short spurts. Africa is not for sissies, they say. When you explore the /Ai/AisRichtersveld Transfrontier Park from the comfort of an air-conditioned vehicle it is easy to take in its beauty. Tackling this wilderness on foot might be testing at times, but Mother Nature slowly exposes plenty of hidden gems along the way. The Venstervalle Hiking Trail takes adventurers into the untamed wilderness of the Richtersveld, to places the public don’t often go. There are those who believe it is more difficult than some of the bigger name trails in southern Africa. At night-time thousands of stars light up the sky. It might even be difficult to sleep with the spectacular display of shooting stars and satellites passing by. The overnight spot on the first night is an amphitheatre carved into volcanic rock rising hundreds of metres above. The second night’s overnight spot is at Venstervalle. Although there was no water when we set out on our journey, the falls are said to spew from the rock arch after heavy rainfall, a rare occurrence in the Richtersveld. On the third day, hikers meet one panoramic view after another while heading over relatively flat terrain, a welcome relief from the almost never-ending Dreunbult uphill of
/Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park is a vast wilderness visited by many and known for its spectacular desert scenery. While the park’s road networks expose a great deal of this beauty, getting down and dirty on foot exposes so much more. René de Klerk shares her experience
Know before you go the day before. The Richtersveld is a botanical wonderland with many scarce plants found nowhere else in the world. New plant species continue to be discovered, and you can understand why: everything is so isolated. Along the trail we passed through a quiver tree (Aloidendron dichotomum) forest, found the endemic Aloe meyeri in flower, walked through a botterboom (Tylecodon paniculatus) forest, stood amazed at a few Namaqua daisies that persist in the drought, and peered over the halfmens (Pachypodium namaquanum) population of Armanshoek. The hike is not for the faint of heart. But to get a real feeling for the Richtersveld, it’s worth walking deep into its belly, smelling the dust and feeling sweat on your face, before it spits you out on the other side.
/Ai-/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park straddles the border between South Africa and Namibia.
The trail is usually open from April to September. Contact the park if you plan on putting the trail on your bucket list in 2019. Costs are available on enquiry. For bookings, visit www.sanparks.org or call 027 831 1506.
Travel: While it is possible to reach Sendelingsdrift in a sedan, the roads within the park are best traversed with 4x4 or 2x4 vehicles. You will not be able to reach Hakkiesdoring, the base for the start of the hike, in a sedan. Remember: You have to be selfsufficient on this hike, and carry everything you will need for the duration. This includes a tent if you are not comfortable with sleeping in the open. You’ll take everything back home with you, including your garbage.
Above: The quiet moments in this vast wilderness are perfect for clearing your head or finding yourself. Armanshoek is just one of the beautiful panoramas to appreciate. These spots are also great for scenic lunch stops. Numerous plant species fascinate along the way, from the giant quiver trees to the halfmens, pictured here looking over Armanshoek. Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 27
Guide JULY July 17 Kirstenbosch Bird Walks: Head to the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens for a free bird walk led by Brian Vanderwald. The event starts at 8am from the information desk at Gate 1, and lasts around two hours. Only garden entrance is payable. Enquiries: Linda Hibbin on +27 21 788 1528 or hibbins@telkomsa.net
Save these
DATES
August 25 Snake talk: The SANParks Honorary Rangers Pretoria Region invites you to a talk by well-known honorary ranger Pieter Truter at Groenkloof National Park in Pretoria. Learn about which snakes are dangerous and what to do in the case of a bite. Cost is R250 per person and all proceeds will go to worthwhile projects identified by the SANParks Honorary Rangers. Enquiries: pieter.truter@treasury.gov.za
SEPTEMBER
July 28 Che Syrah: Book now for the first Che Syrah, a wine experience where Gabriëlskloof Estate outside Botrivier will cast the spotlight on an impressive portfolio of unique Syrah wines. The event starts at 11am with wine tasting, followed by a feast. Tickets are R450 per person. Enquiries: Book via www.gabrielskloof. co.za or contact +27 28 284 9865 or info@gabrielskloof.co.za
September 1–2 Gabriëlskloof Little Spring Market: Celebrate all things new, pretty, fresh and fabulous. You can stock up on anything from plants and crafts to toys and jewellery. Live music and springinspired food will feature alongside Gabriëlskloof’s diverse and excellent wine collection. The market takes place from 10am to 6pm. Enquiries: nicolene@gabrielskloof.co.za or +27 28 284 9865
July 27–29 Water Bird Inventory, Boskop Dam Nature Reserve: Join the Barberspan Bird Club for an inventory on the water birds in the reserve. Enquiries: Emelang Malefo on +27 71 543 2110
September 10–17 SA National Parks Week: Enter your favourite national parks free of charge during SA National Parks Week. Contact your nearest park for details. Namaqua National Park and Boulders Penguin Colony are excluded. Enquiries: www.sanparks.org
AUGUST August 4 Hike Sani Pass: Looking for an unusual experience with the potential of snow? Hike the mother of all mountain passes. This single day event entails hiking the 8km to the top, enjoying lunch and hot drinks at the highest pub in Africa, and then hiking back down after lunch. The adventure will cost you R750 including lunch and soup. Fair fitness levels are required. Enquiries: Kennedy on +27 772 4678 or info@microadventuretours.co.za August 18 Tour de Pilanesberg Wilderness: Cycle the ridge of an ancient volcano in Big Five territory. This annual 50km ride takes place in the Pilanesberg National Park Wilderness Area. Entries are limited and cost R3 500. The event is a fundraiser for the Pilanesberg Wildlife Trust, and starts at 7am at Bakgatla gate. Enquiries: Perry on 1pdell@nwpb.org.za Biffs Big.pdf 20/06/2018 12:04
Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 28
August 23 Birdies and eagles in aid of rhinos: The SANParks Honorary Rangers West Rand Region invites you to join them for a golf day at Reading Country Club. The fee is R4 025 for a four-ball and all fees will go towards conservation. Enquiries: Maritz Janse van Rensburg on +27 82 338 0269 or maritz.van.rensburg@ vesuvius.com
August 18 Merrell Whale of Trail 2018: South Africa’s iconic five-day Whale Trail hiking route is offered as a challenge to runners capable of embracing 53km and 1 900m elevation in a single day. Runners experience spectacular mountain fynbos, technical rocky ridgelines, sandy beach stretches and endless beautiful vistas. Entry fees are R3 200 per person. The winners will receive R25 000 each. Enquiries: whaleoftrail.co.za/
September 18–22 Park Week North West Parks: Enjoy free entry at any of the parks managed by the North West Parks Board, with the exception of Madikwe Game Reserve. Activities and accommodation are not included. Enquiries: Valerie Melk on +27 14 555 1600 or Tumi Sefemo on +27 18 397 1554 September 17–24 CapeNature Access Week: Enter many of CapeNature’s reserves at no cost. Make a point to explore your natural heritage in the Cape. Enquiries: info@capenature.co.za
Focus
The place of
GOLDEN
CLIFFS
and blue skies The mighty Maluti Mountains with their golden sandstone cliff faces are the ideal spot for an outdoor adventure. By René de Klerk
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ed sandstone cliffs tower over open grasslands, black marks running down like smudged mascara. A large herd of eland in the distance is dwarfed by the surrounding mountains. A group of hikers is barely noticeable on top of a giant sandstone cliff. It is difficult to not feel small in the Golden Gate Highlands National Park. Not only does the area have a colourful history, there is also plenty to do here. As a refuge for the iconic bearded vulture, an important water catchment area and a hiker’s paradise, the park should definitely be on your bucket list. Golden Gate is also home to a number of game species such as eland, zebra, black wildebeest, springbok, grey rhebok, mountain reedbuck and red hartebeest. Hiking is one of the most popular pastimes for visitors to this area, but there are plenty of other activities to keep travellers busy. Stop at the Basotho Cultural Village if you are looking for a unique cultural experience. The living museum is filled with prominent characters from the neighbouring areas who regale guests with storytelling, providing insight into the Basotho lifestyle. Guests can also join a traditional healer for a walk to learn more about medicinal herbs. Alternatively, explore the park from the back of a horse, pack a picnic basket or play a game of tennis. There is no shortage of accommodation to suit a variety of tastes. The cultural village offers a cosy stay in the style of an 18thcentury village. The self-catering units have spectacular views. Guests looking for a secluded setting can opt for the Highlands Mountain Retreat, where log cabins are tucked into a mountainside with panoramic views of the Maluti Mountains. Glen Reenen Rest Camp and the Golden Gate Hotel and Chalets are more centrally located, and offer plenty of options for families and singles alike.
The Golden Gate Highlands National Park is in the heart of the Free State. Not far from the picturesque village of Clarens, it is just under four hours’ drive from Johannesburg.
Getting there
It’s a refuge for the iconic bearded vulture, an important water catchment area and a hiker’s paradise
The park is equidistant from Johannesburg, Durban and Bloemfontein. The most direct route from Johannesburg is the N3 to Harrismith. From there you turn onto the R712. Alternatively, leave the N3 towards Villiers and travel towards Bethlehem and then Clarens. After Clarens, the R712 heads straight to the park.
Don’t miss Learn about Basotho culture and savour some traditional beer at the Basotho Cultural Village. Take in the colourful splendour of the Brandwag Buttress while you enjoy a sundowner at the Golden Gate Hotel. Book a guided hike to the Cathedral Caves, a carved sandstone cavern. This is also a breeding site for the rare bald ibis. Spend some time at the vulture hide to spot some of the park’s rare game.
One of the spots not to miss while in the park is the vulture hide. Animal carcasses placed here supplement the diets of the birds and offer them a safe food source. If you are prepared to sit for a while, you might be rewarded with spectacular sightings. Remember to look out for the bearded vultures. While they don’t feed on the meat, they collect the bones and drop them on nearby rock faces to reach the marrow found within,
offering amazing photo opportunities and sightings. Remember to stop at the viewpoints along the roadsides. They all offer something special. Rooi Draai is a must-visit – fossilised dinosaur eggs were discovered here in 1973, one of the reasons plans are underway to construct a museum in the park. In fact, there are plenty of spots in the vicinity where visitors can go on palaeontological adventures. Or if
it’s simply the pleasures of wildlife, grasslands, wildlife and fresh air you’re after, you need look no further than this magnificent park. Main photo: The Langtoon Dam is just one of the scenic spots in the park seen from one of the loops. Top right: Hikers are barely noticeable on top of the famous Brandwag Buttress. A hike and some chains take you all the way to the top. Bottom left: Views from the Highlands Mountain Retreat are unparalleled. Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 29
Food
Tantalise your taste buds Whether you’re craving a hearty dinner, a light breakfast or an afternoon bite, The Fig Tree Restaurant at the De Hoop Collection caters for everyone. Situated next to the vlei within the De Hoop Nature Reserve, the restaurant’s menu changes on a daily basis. From roast lamb to nut butters and decadent chocolate volcano desserts, hearty food is the order of the day. The bar serves cocktails, and wines sourced from the area. Call +27 21 422 4522 to book.
Dig in
Editor’s pick: Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut You can’t go wrong with a classic – and this is the stuff legends are made of. Rich in history, Kaapse Vonkel has its origin in the first Methode Cap Classique produced in South Africa in 1971 at Simonsig winery. This silky MCC, with a decadent biscuit finish, is perfect for a bush brunch, sundowners, or a special night celebrating the great outdoors. R145 a bottle.
Your guide to eating in the great outdoors Cook the Karoo way Take a slow-food journey with Gordon Wright’s Karoo Food (Penguin Random House, R300). Wright traces the origins of ingredients and stories behind the dishes. Filled with delightful anecdotes and the joys that can only be found in the kitchen, it will entertain – and have you entertaining like a pro.
Ready, set, braai! Franca Gourmet Briquettes are creating a braai experience with a twist. Impress your guests with delicate flavours emanating from the coals. The briquettes are flavoured with herbs and spices to infuse your food with delicate tastes and aromas. Perfect for smoking dishes, or to wake up the senses before dinnertime. The briquettes come in beautifully packaged boxes, and are free of chemicals. Choose from garlic and herb, garlic, rosemary, and onion flavours. No more wetting wood chips! Visit www.francabraai.com to get your hands on a box.
AN UNFORGETTABLE, AUTHENTIC TENTED SAFARI EXPERIENCE.
Spice up your braai sides This easy pasta salad is very tasty! Serves 6. Cooking time: 15 minutes Ingredients • 250g mushrooms, chopped • 1 garlic clove, chopped • 100g rosa tomatoes • 200g pesto • 150ml plain yoghurt • 50ml mayonnaise • 200g pasta • 3 tbsp olive oil • A few peppadews, chopped • 125g cashew nuts, chopped • Handful fresh basil leaves Method 1. Sauté mushrooms and garlic with salt. Add tomatoes and fry. 2. Mix pesto, yoghurt and mayonnaise. 3. Bring a pot of water with salt to boil. Add pasta and boil for 9 minutes. Drain pasta, and rinse in cold water. 4. Sprinkle olive oil over pasta and stir through. Cool. Stir mushrooms, tomatoes, peppadews, pesto sauce and cashew nuts into the pasta. 5. Add fresh basil leaves and serve!
Experiencing a true South African safari” is probably right up at the top of your bucket list. And for good reason too. Wide open savannahs, diverse terrain, endless open African skies and, of course, the chance to get up close with the Big 5! With camps in The Pilanesberg National Park and the Kruger National Park, Tented Adventures offers an experience you’ll never forget. From the moment you arrive at camp until you tear yourself away to return to reality, everything will be taken care of... What we offer: • comfortable safari tents (king size bed or two singles) • breakfast and dinner included • daily conservation fees included • early morning open-vehicle game drive
• • • •
late afternoon open-vehicle game drive wine during dinner shared ablution facilities road transfer service available (extra cost)
+27 76 146 1468 | bookings@tentedadventures.com | www.tentedadventures.com Page 30 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
ted Adventures 1/4page.indd 1
2018/06/19 12:29
On Track
Rock along in
Barberton
The Makhonjwa Mountains resemble an ancient planet. Travel the Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail and you will see glimpses of the planet as it once appeared over three billion years ago. Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld explores the trail’s magical mountains, and their Archaean period origins.
D
riving towards Barberton you could be forgiven for stopping for a moment of calm to fully process the magnificent mountain scenery surrounding this historical goldmining town. But head out along the R40, along a tarred road carved through the steep Makhonjwa Mountains towards the Swazi border, and even more breathtaking geological wonders await. The 37km Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail offers visitors a living record of Earth’s volcanic activity between 3.2 and 3.57 billion years ago. Forming part of the Barberton Greenstone Belt, the various sites along the route have richly illustrated information boards offering a clear view of what once lay before, and what today lies right in front of you. The route celebrates the geological discoveries that define the Archaean Eon. Geologists tout this period of Earth’s history as the time when the planet’s crust had cooled to allow for the formation of continents and the earliest life. Because of the valuable information found within the mountains and rock faces, scientists gather here every year to study the Belt’s formations, and unravel the secrets it holds about the planet’s atmosphere, climate, and environment. At one point along the route, you’ll view the shales, sandstones and volcanics of the Fig Tree Group, and at another extreme, the microbial mats in the Moodies Group, which offer some of the oldest visible traces of life on Earth. The Onverwacht Group demonstrates sedimentary rocks that are up to
The Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail is along the R40 south from Barberton in Mpumalanga, and stops just short of the Bulembu border gate into Swaziland.
Don’t miss • The Geotrail offers 11 geo-sites where you can get out of the car and read about the rocks of the Onverwacht, Fig Tree and Moodies Groups. Don’t forget to pack your camera! • At the Makhonjwa Lebombo Viewpoint you can see a wide collection of rocks, placed in order from youngest to oldest. You can also gaze out onto the Lebombo Mountains.
14km thick. There are 11 geo-sites along the route, which include spots where you can view banded ironstone, tidal sandstone and pillow lavas. While the trail offers a tangible experience of the Earth’s past, it also
hosts rare and endemic plants. The lowland savanna, riverine forests, thickets and grasslands in highlying areas ensure a wide diversity of vegetation. Keep an eye out for various Protea species on the steep hillsides, the Barberton daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) and the world’s tallest tree aloes. A jackal sneaking off into the bush, monkeys hanging out on the roadside, and even the occasional antelope are not a rare occurrence. For twitchers, the 300 bird species could offer days of entertainment. The Makhonjwa range is now on the tentative list of Unesco’s World Heritage Sites – little wonder, as this range is made up of the oldest wellpreserved rocks on Earth. And with dozens of sights to be witnessed along the route, visitors will dine on the new-found knowledge of the Archaean Eon for a lifetime.
Plan your adventure • Travel: The Geotrail is 37km long in one direction. The route is tarred and accessible to all vehicles, and has many tight bends and mountain passes. Look out for fallen rocks and timberhauling trucks. Visit www.geotrail.co.za for more. • Remember: Pack your walking shoes, warm clothing for changes in weather, a hat and sunscreen. Take a picnic basket so you can enjoy lunch while looking out over spectacular views. Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 31
Talitha and the
TURTLES
Ann Gadd sticks her neck out and heads to the Two Oceans Aquarium to find out more about the Turtle Rescue Programme.
I
’m lying flat-out on a small deck above a tank, camera poised, watching something amazing. The objects of my awe are Sandy, and Talitha Noble. Noble is a young marine biologist, and Sandy a rather large 15-year-old green turtle. What makes the scene so extraordinary is that the turtle is swimming to Noble not for food, as might be expected, but for an affectionate neck rub. Until now I’d never thought of turtles as having individual personalities. However, watching rescued green turtles Sandy and Bob, it becomes immediately obvious that although they are the same species, they each have their own personalities. “The Turtle Rescue Programme was formalised this year, with 10 collection points between Cape Town and Plettenberg Bay. But we have been doing rehabilitation for much longer,” says Noble, the programme coordinator. “We wanted to educate the public as to what to do should they find an injured turtle or hatchling on the beach.” With this programme in place, Noble and her team hope to see an increase in rescued turtles. When hatchlings enter the sea
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in KwaZulu-Natal from places like Bhanga Nek, Cape Vidal and Sodwana Bay, some get caught in the Agulhas current and drift far south into the colder Cape waters. Here they go into ‘cold shock’. Many have ingested microplastics and this, together with a lack of food, and injuries and dehydration, makes their condition dire. “When they are
Ever since Noble watched Flipper, she wanted to work with sea creatures
brought in, we rehabilitate them until they regain their strength and health, and are of sufficient size to be released,” says Noble. “The highest intake is during May, but they come in throughout the year, particularly when there has been a storm or a howling South-Easter.” In December the team released Yoshi – a 183kg loggerhead – off Cape Point. “Yoshi spent over 20
years at the aquarium. We’ve been monitoring her progress,” says Noble. By May, Yoshi had reached the warmer waters of Angola, travelling an average of 29.5km daily, and covering over 3 300km. At the hatchling rescue tanks there are approximately 15 hatchlings, all numbered for monitoring purposes. “The area where the hatchlings and rehabilitation turtles are kept is an ICU and, as a result, we need to spend a lot of time with medical care and hand feeding. It’s a huge task, so we rely on volunteers to assist. We have an amazing team,” Noble says. Terry and Evanne Rothwell have been volunteers at the aquarium for the past 12 years. “I started distributing turtle rescue boxes to help the survival rate,” Evanne says. “Beach walkers find hatchlings and mistakenly try to put them back into the sea. But they need to be kept warm and dry in boxes with air holes, until they can get to the aquarium.” Local shark spotters, law enforcement agents, lifeguards and vets around Muizenberg and Fish Hoek all have boxes with them. At the larger tanks, we see Sandy
Wild Earth Turtle drop-off points
If you find an injured marine turtle or hatchling: • Do not put the turtle back into the water. • Keep it dry and put it into an open breathable container or box with a soft towel. • Deliver it to the aquarium or an official drop-off location as soon as possible. • Phone the Emergency Control Centre on 021 783 0333 or Two Oceans Aquarium on 021 418 3823 for further assistance.
and Bob. When they spot Noble they rise to the surface to be petted. “When Sandy arrived from Witsand she was in a very bad state,” says Noble. “She had propeller wounds on her carapace and required pain medication and tube feeding. “Bob was listless and not properly recovering from his initial injuries, until one day after he defecated we found the problem – a mass of plastic,” Noble adds. Noble is already preparing for the day she will release Sandy, having become very
• Muizenberg beachfront: Primi Piatti, York Road; +27 21 788 7130 • Hermanus: Shark Conservancy, Old Harbour Museum, Market Square, Marine Drive; +27 28 312 3029 • Gansbaai (Kleinbaai): African Penguin Seabird Sanctuary; +27 87 724 8341 • Struisbaai: NSRI, Harbour Road; +27 82 990 5952 • Witsand: Pili Pili, Joseph Barry Drive; +27 28 537 1018 • Mossel Bay: The Dias Museum Granary, 1 Market Street; +27 44 691 1067 • Wilderness: SANParks Ebb-and-Flow Rest Camp, Dumbelton Road; +27 44 877 1197 • Knysna: SANParks, Thesen Island Offices, Thesen Island; +27 44 302 5600 • Plettenberg Bay: Tenikwa Wildlife Centre, Forest Hall Road; +27 82 486 1515 • Plettenberg Bay: NSRI, Hopwood Street; +27 82 990 5975
Main: Yoshi the loggerhead spent 20 years at the aquarium before release. Far left: Talitha Noble. Left top: A tiny hatchling recovering. Left: Talitha Noble with Sandy. Below: Turtles are released into the sea.
fond of her. “She’s a feisty turtle and strong-willed. I’m more concerned about the ocean with her in it, than the other way around!” she says. “It’s obvious though that she is not meant to be here, she belongs in the big blue.” Ever since Noble watched the movie Flipper, she wanted to work with sea creatures. “I started with the Young Biologist Programme and volunteered at the aquarium at every opportunity,” she says. “When it came to studying I naturally chose marine biology. I approached the aquarium, volunteering my services in return for experience. After a year I became conservation coordinator. Turtles tick all my boxes – education, conservation and lifestyle. I have found my passion,” she smiles. Leaving the aquarium, the words of Dr Seuss play through my mind: “And the turtles, of course... all the turtles are free, as turtles and, maybe, all creatures should be.”
Our guests have to worry about a lot of things... like if the champagne on arrival will be cold.
Handcrafting unique and personal African safari experiences for over 25 years Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 33
Adventure
Discover the gems between mountains and sea Garden Route National Park, between the mountains and the Indian Ocean, is a playground for adventure lovers. By René de Klerk
W
hen people think of the Garden Route, certain things come to mind: the world-famous Otter Trail, crystal-clear oceans, ancient forest giants, the woodcutters of yesteryear and soft green carpets of moss. Oh, and elephants of course! Apart from those, there is the well-known arched Bloukrans Bridge stretching over the Bloukrans River below. At 216m, this is the world’s highest commercial bungee bridge. Give it a try and the mix of energy and adrenaline might even make jumping head first into the abyss seem normal for a moment. It’s also the only spot in the country where you can dangle from a bungee rope over a river catchment that is protected by a national park. The ocean you’ll see in the distance forms part of the Tsitsikamma Marine Protected Area. If the thought of jumping from a bridge is enough to raise your blood
pressure, rather opt for something more laid-back. A quick two-wheel adventure departing from Thesen Island in Knysna, ideal for exploring the surrounding forests, might be just the ticket. Scootours entails a series of exhilarating downhill and curvy rides on a Monster Mountain Scooter through the indigenous forests of Goudveld. The scooter does not have an engine, but if it’s speed you’re after, you’ll get it. It’s ideal for the more timid adventurer, as you determine your own pace and can slow down at any time. This section of forest is also home to the Dalene Matthee Memorial and Big Tree, one of five large tree attractions in the park. From the memorial you can do the Kringe in ’n Bos hike and wander deeper into the forest. Not only will you have the opportunity to spot the occasional bushbuck, the birdlife within the green canopy is prolific too. You may even spot a narina trogon or hear Knysna turacos making a racket above. If speed and height are not for you and your legs have done enough walking, opt to spend time in the Wilderness section of the park. Wilderness River Safaris offer ecofriendly boat rides for up to eight people at a time. The most popular cruises are those on the Touw River, but there are trips to Island Lake too. To round things off, the sunset birding cruises are the perfect end to any adventure in the Garden Route.
Don’t miss While the Storms River Mouth Rest Camp is extremely popular with tourists due to the large amount of activities and the suspension bridge, don’t forget to explore Nature’s Valley. Apart from the hiking trails, beautiful estuary, beach and canoeing, it is a wonderful birding spot. Page 34 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
Know before you go Travel: The easiest way to get there from Johannesburg is via George Airport or even Port Elizabeth International Airport, depending on where you want to start your journey. You can explore much of the area with a sedan. Remember: You’ll need at least a week if you intend to see the majority of this protected area and even then you won’t get around to everything. There is just too much to do.
This beautiful protected location is on the south-western coast of South Africa. It is divided into three areas, incorporating the Wilderness, Knysna Lakes and Tsitsikamma sections in one large protected area.
Stay: A night or two in the Tree-top Forest Chalet in Knysna is highly recommended for an isolated experience far from the crowds. Big enough for four, it offers a touch of luxury away from home. R1 615 for the first two people per night. Contact: SANParks for accommodation: www.sanparks.org Face Adrenalin for bungee jumping: www.faceadrenalin.com Scootours: www.scootours.co.za/ knysna-forest/ Wilderness River Safaris: www. wildriversafaris.co.za
Top: The Garden Route’s suspension bridge is an iconic sight. Left: Wheel along the forests with Scootours. Below: The Bloukrans Bridge is the world’s highest commercial bungee bridge.
Advertorial
N
kambeni Safari Camp is a sociable camp consisting of 150 eco-conscious luxury tents. The camp is ideally placed on the outskirts of eastern Kruger, with access to 11 500 hectares of traversing rights in prime Big Five territory. Activities include two daily game drives, in the morning and at night. For the brave and active, bushwalks allow guests to step out and get in touch with their tracking skills. Other in-camp activities include traditional dancing and marimba performances on request. The linen is crisp and the outdoor shower awaits! The tents are permanent structures made from timber and canvas. No concrete in the construction process means minimal stress has been placed on the natural environment. Each tent is fitted with two extra-length beds, an indoor bathroom, airconditioning and a coffee station. Visitors have access to a large swimming pool overlooking the waterhole, which is inhabited by a pod of hippos. A perk of the pool is its island lounge. x 100mm.pdf 1 19/06/2018 NKAMBENI_275mm
Authentic Africa in Kruger Nkambeni Safari Lodge is a stone’s throw from the Numbi Gate entrance, located on the eastern border of southern Kruger National Park, approximately an hour’s drive from Nelspruit.
Getting there For more information and price enquiries visit www.nkambeni.com Contact 013 590 1011 or reservations@ nkambeni.com to make a booking.
Within Nkambeni there is another sort of ‘waterhole’ too – a well-stocked bar allows guests to indulge in a customary bush G&T or drink of choice during sundowners. High profile sports matches are also screened. À la carte and buffet meals are served 04:38 in a spacious restaurant, and
guests have the option of dining under the stars around a hearty fire in the boma. Nkambeni has the wellbeing of the wilderness at heart. The camp is dedicated to offering guests an authentic African experience while exposing them to the sights and sounds of the Kruger.
Scrub hares A family of scrub hares (Lepus saxatilis) has taken up residence at Nkambeni Safari Camp. The large-eared hares have endeared themselves to guests. Small prey animals have been known to take refuge in bush camps as the human activity deters natural predators.
Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 35
Hotspots
GEMS
worth travelling for History next to scenic waters Vlei Suite, De Hoop Collection The Vlei Suite was once the site of stables for Spanish horses kept by Pieter Cloete in the 1950s. His prized possessions were kept close to the main house to keep thieves and predators at bay. Today, the homely building offers accommodation of a different kind. Not only do visitors have a perfect view of the vlei (a Ramsar Site of International Importance) from this luxurious suite, but one can also be assured of a good night’s rest on a king-size bed. Situated within the De Hoop Nature Reserve, expect to find wildlife such as bontebok, eland and Cape mountain zebra in the vicinity. De Hoop is a prime destination for whale watching, plus twitchers can see up to 260 bird species.
Good to know: The Fig Tree Restaurant, vlei, tennis courts and swimming pool are within walking distance of the suite. Cost: From R2 350 per night, including dinner and breakfast. A bird walk is included with longer stays. Book: www.dehoopcollection.co.za
Sun, sea and sand
Back into the wild
A bush experience with a twist
Lagoon House, Agulhas National Park
Vhembe Camp, Mapungubwe National Park
Tented Adventures, Pilanesberg National Park
This historic house is not only the perfect vantage point for beautiful sunsets and scenic walks, it also provides easy access to a lagoon situated within the rest camp. About three quarters of the views outside are made up of sea vistas. Situated approximately 10km from the Cape Agulhas Lighthouse, this is a great spot for families or groups of friends. Apart from the lagoon, visitors can also enjoy walking trails in the rest camp. The kids will love exploring the fascinating life in the rock pools.
Looking for an affordable accommodation option without having to set up camp? This wilderness camp is one of the most scenic options in this national park located on the border of Zimbabwe and Botswana. Think giant baobabs, striking red sunsets and no fences to restrict the movement of wildlife. This is glamping rather than camping, so your tent comes furnished with its own ablution facilities and two single beds. Each unit has a little deck looking down into the valley below, ideal for game spotting while sipping your morning coffee.
You will be treated like royalty from the moment you arrive at this private camp within the greater Manyane camping area in Pilanesberg National Park. Instead of pitching your own tent, this glamping experience allows you to sit back and relax. Your stay includes a bush braai dinner with wine and a buffet breakfast. Small game often walk through the camp, and you are bound to have dinner with impala nibbling nearby. At night, a cosy fire creates a sociable atmosphere where you can interact with the hosts and other guests.
Good to know: Up to eight people can be accommodated in four rooms, two of which are inside the main house. The house is fully equipped for a comfortable stay. Lagoon House is right on the sea, separate from the chalets in the rest camp. Cost: Expect to pay R3 405 for the first six people until the end of October. Extra adults pay R586 and kids R293. Conservation fees are extra. Book: www.sanparks.org Page 36 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
Good to know: A variety of activities will keep the entire family entertained. You can go on game drives, discover the cultural history of the area and wander the magnificent Mapungubwe Hill. Walk in the treetops next to the mighty Limpopo River and have a picnic where South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana meet. Cost: Prices range between R717 and R833 for two people, excluding conservation fees. Book: www.sanparks.org
Good to know: Each tent has a deck with chairs, or visitors can unwind in the communal living room. Tents are equipped with two comfortable single beds with electric blankets, quality bedding, a side table, lamps and a fan. Join in on a game drive, or head out on a self-drive. Cost: From R1 155 per person for accommodation, dinner and breakfast. Cost is R1 855 with two game drives. Book: www.tentedadventures.com
Hotspots
Pure luxury in a secret corner of Kruger
Reclaim your wilderness
Jock Safari Lodge, Kruger National Park
Nossob, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park In the south-western corner of Kruger National Park, perched on the old Voortrekker road that took travellers through untamed wilderness from Delagoa Bay to the goldfields of Pilgrim’s Rest in centuries past, lies Jock Safari Lodge. This luxurious private lodge can be found in the most magnificent game viewing territory of Kruger, in a concession that allows for private access to over 6 000 hectares of land. Game drives are available twice a day, and you’re bound to spot some sightings for the bucket list. Or if you’re keen on relaxing, days at the lodge can be spent lazing on the deck of private thatched suites screened by lush trees, or enjoying continental breakfasts, champagne brunches, and lunch on the deck between dips in the pool. With views over the riverbed below, you won’t even need to leave your suite and can spend the afternoon lying on the outdoor day bed enjoying the sounds of birds in the trees. Spend a night out there if you’re brave, and you’ll be able to absorb the reverbs of the lion’s roar in the early hours of the morning. Take time out in the Pilgrims Rest Retreat for rejuvenating
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treatments, or spend a few hours in the library. Good to know: Don’t miss the opportunity to go on a wilderness walk with one of the lodge guides, and you could be tracking big game within minutes of setting out. Cost: From R7 895 per person sharing per night, including lunch, dinner, breakfast, two game drives, guided walks, tea, coffee, water, game drive beverages and tourism levies. Book: www.jocksafarilodge.com Fancy a full-on week of luxury, starting at Jock Safari Lodge? Try an 11-day Kruger, Victoria Falls and Cape Town package. Start off with a stay at Jock Safari Lodge, then head from the natural wonder of Kruger to another magical spot: Victoria Falls. Here, you’ll stay at Elephant Camp. Finally, head to Cape Town’s Commodore Hotel, stay below Table Mountain and enjoy everything the Cape offers, including world-class beaches, dining and unforgettable views. From R70 900 per person sharing. Visit www.safari.com for more info.
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An enchanted forest Kurisa Moya Nature Lodge, Magoebaskloof Nestled in the heart of the Magoebaskloof forest, between Tzaneen and Polokwane in Limpopo, Kurisa Moya is an idyllic hideaway. A little golden gem surrounded by nature, untouched and unspoiled, this lodge with its cosy hidden cabins has a rich and fascinating history rooted in Sepedi culture and legends of historical woodcutters. In addition to the peace and pure quiet, this lush getaway is incredible for birding. Acres of natural yellowwood forests play host to enchanting wildlife. You’ll run into samango monkeys, and possibly a few ghosts too.
Known for its predator sightings in the area of the Nossob River, this rest camp is a must when it comes to traditional rest camps in the Kgalagadi. Although predator sightings are not guaranteed, the camp also boasts its own predator information centre with posters on many of the predator groups. At night, and especially after the generator is switched off, thousands of stars make this the perfect spot for stargazing and astrophotography. Keep an eye out for the local jackals! The chalets are furnished with all you need for a comfortable stay. Good to know: Nossob is approximately 3.5 hours from Twee Rivieren if you drive at the speed limit of 50km/h with little stopping. It is also a great vantage point for exploring further north. There is no cellphone reception, which adds to the peaceful atmosphere. Cost: From R1 075 per night for two people, but larger units are also available. Costs exclude the daily conservation fee. Book: www.sanparks.org
Good to know: Over 250 species of bird are abundant in the farm’s different habitats. Keep an eye out for the elusive narina trogon. Guide Paul Nkhumane is a pro at helping find some of the forest’s rarities. Cost: The cabins are available from R850 per adult sharing per night. Book: www.krm.co.za
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A day in the life This insightful Day in the Life was published courtesy of WWF South Africa. Visit www. wwf.org.za for more. Black Rhino Range Expansion Project coordinator Ursina Rusch and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife vet Rowan Leeming administer the antidote before dashing to safety while the rhino wakes up.
Making a
difference L
ast year, I experienced my first black rhino capture for WWF’s Black Rhino Range Expansion Project (BRREP), after just over a year on the job as the project’s coordinator. Over the course of two weeks, we travelled to multiple reserves across northern KwaZuluNatal to capture pre-selected black rhinos from each location for eventual relocation to a new project site. The capture and releases are part of the BRREP’s overall objective to boost black rhino numbers. The planning that goes into a rhino capture is immense and it takes months of hard, carefully considered work and preparation before everything comes together for a brief window period – a time that everyone looks forward to each year. With the current rhino poaching onslaught, much of the work involving rhinos these days focuses on protecting them, or worse, dealing with the aftermath of poaching. Capturing and relocating black rhinos for range expansion provides a welcome, positive aspect to rhino
Page 38 | Safari News | Winter Issue 2018
Project coordinator of the World Wide Fund for Nature’s Black Rhino Range Expansion Project, Ursina Rusch, is part of a small but influential team at the forefront of protecting this critically endangered species. Ursina shares her story… conservation, which is why the incredibly skilled and dedicated individuals coming together each year for the capture always look forward to it as much as we do at BRREP. While my core work focuses on general project management and data management, I also spend a good amount of time working on black rhino genetics. With the low number of black rhinos left in the world (around 5 000) and their inherited high relatedness, it’s important to maintain genetic diversity in populations through detailed genetic population management. This prevents inbreeding. My days are spent tracking down DNA samples from
black rhinos on project sites, living and deceased, and working with the Veterinary Genetics Lab at the University of Pretoria to carry out paternity testing for offspring and relatedness testing for all BRREP rhinos. When it’s time to capture offspring to set up a new population, we can compare their DNA to make sure they represent good genetic diversity. BRREP is working on its 12th translocation, and for the first time in BRREP’s history we will be able to analyse the selected rhinos for genetic relatedness to each other before moving them to their new home. During last year’s captures, I was involved in collecting DNA, including
hair, tissue and horn samples from each rhino, which meant I had to be on the scene quickly once the animal was darted. This gave me a front-row seat to following the darted rhino through the bush in the lead capture vehicle. The ride is often rough and as the vehicle has to keep up with the rhino no matter what, the motto for any passenger is simple: hang on for dear life. Once darted and loaded into their crates the rhinos are driven to the new project site, where they will have plenty of space to make their home and breed the next generation of black rhinos. BRREP has helped me reach a childhood dream: to fight alongside other committed conservationists to bring some of our key species back from the brink of extinction. It is the ultimate motivator and reward, to see the fruits of your hard work and long days not only pay off, but play a part in saving a critically endangered species that is one of Africa’s most iconic animals.
Last Word
40% Human These days, forgetting about the camera traps set up for catching poachers in reserves can lead to some embarrassing records. Otch Otto reveals all
M
ost articles in Safari News will carry messages of those working day in and day out to make sure our natural heritage is well conserved. I join the bouquet of contributors and hope you will enjoy my musings. I work in the counter-poaching environment and therefore work with people. My articles will deal with life, humour and, of course, these people. It will hopefully also serve to enrich. I’d like to tell you a story about a man, appointed in 2016 as chief of security to deal with anti-poaching at a large reserve. Let’s call him Rick. Counter-poaching efforts have grown and changed phenomenally in the last five years. Those on the ground approach this situation with purism and dedication. They witness every day how poverty and greed create a theatre of trauma and carnage. And in response to this situation, those on the ground are part of a new wave of dedicated, competent people who get little budgets, w lo h it W “ sleep. The growth of intellectual rs, harsh u o h capacity and high performing g n lo rful individuals (and animals) has d wonde n a s n io t condit made counter-poaching a waiting a n e r d il h scientific profession. grandc eal world id n But those with the intellectual a in home, capacity can be forgiven for a incursion g in h c a loose brain cell here or there, an every po up with d n e which can often be blamed for ld u sho moments of forgetfulness. arrest.” An important part of anti-poaching efforts is technology that provides just-in-time (JIT) information that can lead to conclusive action against the ability to distinguish between the perpetrators. subjects transmitted – whether they With low budgets, long hours, be animal, human or vehicle. harsh conditions and wonderful Now, back to Rick. Rick is a grandchildren waiting at home, in an highly qualified and experienced ideal world every poaching incursion officer with intimate knowledge should end up with an arrest. To of counter-insurgency. Results chase the same poachers through produced within a year of his forests, marshes, or savannah every appointment at the large reserve week is silly and a magic recipe for where he works indicated that he burnout. And poachers are getting had reduced incidents of poaching stronger and faster. So in best-case to an insignificant figure. Today, he is scenarios, first-time detection should known as one of the best in lead to first-time arrest. This is where the industry. JIT technology such as interactive Rick is a big man. Weighing in camera traps comes in. Camera traps at around 130kg, he wears 3XL report to mobile devices and portals, clothing and does not trim the fat beaming their images on screens off his steak. The decision by Rick to in operations rooms around the add interactive camera traps to his continent. Camera traps also have reserve was well thought through.
Illustration by Annalene Lindeque
Rick purchased one unit, and would consider purchasing more if the system performed in the way the salesman said it would. The camera unit was placed on the side of Rick’s homestead on the reserve. This had the added benefit of identifying the creature that was eating up Rick’s garden every night. Being on the wrong side of 50, Rick decided to water the garden after dark one night when the weather had cooled down outside. It was however not cool enough to dress for the occasion, and after all, the house is in a remote area many kilometres away from any public scrutiny. Rick stepped outside and proceeded to water the garden in his underpants. The very well positioned
interactive camera trap was alerted when the infrared sensor detected movement of biomass within range of the viewfinder. As promised by the camera trap salesman, a high-definition image was recorded, annotated and beamed across half of the African continent, JIT. Although Rick has not forgiven himself for his forgetfulness, the most serious mental obstacle he is now struggling with is the widely distributed algorithmic identification reported with his image: “40% human”. The salesman says the identification was not a camera error and Rick was not available for comment.
Gotcha! Winter Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 39