SAFARI NEWS SPRING EDITION 2018 – ISSUE 02
Wildlife
CORRIDORS FOR GORILLAS
Kruger ADVENTURES ON FOOT
ILLEGAL
WILDLIFE TRADE RAMPANT
Zebra
SPECIES IN AFRICA
ONLINE VERSION
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SAFARINEWSCONTENT LIVING WORLD 4–28 News from the world of conservation WILD EARTH Waterberg’s free-roaming wild dogs 3
Cross River gorilla conservation
5
Zebra species of Africa 8 Saving the paintbrush lily 15 Sevengill shark a top predator 16 The penguins of Stony Point
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Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park’s elephants
25
Attract wildlife to your garden
41
Discover the magic of Anvil Bay
46
Are Kruger’s martial eagles in trouble? 49 FOCUS Recharge your soul in Anysberg 29 Head out to the Magaliesberg 44 LESS TRAVELLED 31 Explore the Masai Mara SPOTLIGHT on plastic
34
Bush telegraph
57
by René de Klerk
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HERITAGE 38 Fugitives’ Drift battlefield tours ADVENTURE 43 Morning walk in Kruger National Park HOTSPOTS 50
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Our pick of destinations worth travelling for REGULARS Gear guide: Hot tech and gadgets 17 By the book 27 Zoom in: Photos 36 Food: Dig in 45 Little Safarians: Fun for the little ones
48
Diary: Events guide 52 A day in the life
53
Fundraising 54 EWT column 54 Last Word: Otch Otto on the bush 55
Acting editor René de Klerk +27 78 275 5978 / +27 11 340 3352 renedk@caxton.co.za Website and social media Georgina Lockwood +27 11 340 3333 georginal@caxton.co.za
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Distribution RNA +27 11 248 3500 Image library Fotolia Freepik
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We’d love to hear from you. Write to us at safari@caxton. co.za and share your adventures, sightings, photos and stories. We can’t wait to hear what you have to say!
Kruger ADVENTURES ON FOOT
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Cover image by Graham Kearney
Safari News 02 Page 1_FINAL.indd 2
07/09/2018 00:31
was recently with a group of journalists at a popular fast-food restaurant at OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg. Our flight had been delayed, and we required sustenance. Our food arrived together with a mini mountain of plastic straws and cutlery. In contrast, towards the end of August I spent a weekend at the beautiful De Hoop Collection in De Hoop Nature Reserve where, apart from glass and recyclable containers used during picnics, cutlery was made from wood. While plastic continues to fill our oceans and landfill sites, we all need to say no to single-use plastic and be a little kinder to our planet. I was shocked to discover that South Africa is the 11th worst offender in the world when it comes to plastic pollution, and around one million plastic bottles are bought worldwide every minute. Read more about the plastic problem on p34. This issue also brings you info on how elephants are changing their behaviour because of poaching (p25), and the latest in the fight against the illegal wildlife trade (p4 and p13). However, it’s not all gloom and doom. The last remaining freeroaming African wild dogs in South Africa have had pups, and with new conservation efforts there is hope for this group (p3). Cameroon is creating corridors to save the Cross River gorilla (p5), and the Stony Point penguins are thriving thanks to hard work by conservationists (p21). Spring is here and with this new season comes new life, renewed excitement, and more reasons to explore – whether you’re an eco warrior with a cause or an armchair traveller with dreams. Explore the wonderful gems in South Africa, Africa and beyond, and remember to share your stories with us at Safari News!
Wild Earth
Hope for free-roaming
wild dogs
A
s ferocious predators and successful hunters, it is not surprising that the last remaining free-roaming pack of African wild dogs in South Africa’s Waterberg region has been persecuted over the years. And with an increase in human population, the size of their open, natural spaces has decreased too. Despite calling the Waterberg Biosphere Reserve home, threats have caused this wild dog population to shrink significantly. But with a litter of pups born in July and conservationists eager to save this bloodline, there is new hope. In the past, wild dogs thrived in the rich biodiversity South Africa had to offer. “Threats such as hunting, poisoning, road collisions, snaring and habitat loss have reduced the population to near extinction,” says Derek van der Merwe, Limpopo regional coordinator of the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s (EWT) Carnivore Conservation Programme. The 400 000-hectare Waterberg Biosphere Reserve includes formally protected reserves, buffer zones, corridor zones, commercial hunting and private farms. There are also game breeders focusing on highvalue game. This is where the EWT plays a pivotal role. Van der Merwe says their goal is to promote co-existence between
All eyes are on the last remaining population of free-roaming wild dogs in South Africa. Through new conservation efforts it is hoped the pack will have a bright future. René de Klerk investigates
successful predators,” he says. landowners and the wild dogs to The resident klipspringer antelope safeguard the last pack of freein his garden is long gone, but after roaming wild dogs in South Africa. taking the time to observe and There are a number of ways to follow the dogs, his perceptions do this. changed. “It is a blessing to witness One is to ensure farmers’ their behaviour. Many people who livelihoods are less affected by work in nature conservation don’t the wild dogs. “Forms of coeven have this unique opportunity. existence include measures such as We interfered with nature by fencing establishing early warning systems, everything, so it is our responsibility building corrals, livestock-guarding to help,” he says. A sponsor will also animals, anti-predator deterrents assist Pieter with and constant new impala to liaison with the restock some of landowners,” he The goal is to the game he has says. “We have safeguard the last lost as a result of mapped potential allowing the dogs hotspots of conflict free-roaming pack onto his property. after fitting collars of wild dogs in Another method to the pack.” This is to protect the way, warnings are South Africa dogs through sent if wild tourism. “This area dogs approach has incredible eco-tourism potential, these hotspots. as it is located close to the urban Through the work of the EWT, hub of Johannesburg,” says van der landowners are slowly becoming Merwe. As a result, visitors can now more accepting of the dogs, but go on a unique tracking experience a lot of hard work lies ahead. Local to see these wild dogs. farmer Pieter van der Merwe, whose All funds raised through these property became the denning site experiences are distributed back to for the dogs, says he was extremely the landowners for providing safe worried when he received the passage. “We determine the amount news. He owns several high-value according to the time dogs are game species. “If you listen to spending on each property,” says people’s stories, the wild dogs will van der Merwe. bankrupt you quickly as they are very
The facts •4 00 000 hectares: The size of the Waterberg Biosphere Reserve. •S pecial genes: The Waterberg wild dogs have a completely unique string of DNA and bloodline. •5 20: The number of wild dogs left in South Africa. This makes them the most endangered carnivore in South Africa. •5 : The number of dogs that were left in the free-roaming population in 2017 before the new pups were born. In 1998, there were 120 animals. •P ainted wolves: Another name for these beautiful dogs due to their coat patterns.
Visit www.waterbergwilddogs.com to book your tracking experience. Packages range between R550 and R1 000. No children under 12.
Above: The last remaining population of free-roaming African wild dogs in the Waterberg area of South Africa. Photo: Derek van der Merwe Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 3
Living World
Clamping down on illegal trade I
llegal wildlife trade is rampant, as proven by the seizure of a live pangolin, four live sharks, 700kg of abalone, ivory and rhino horn during South Africa’s contribution to the global Operation Thunderstorm in May this year. In total, 1 400 people were arrested during the month-long initiative that included investigations and searches in 92 countries. Operation Thunderstorm
is an initiative led by the Interpol Wildlife Crime Working Group. The aim behind this initiative, launched in 2017, is to target people and networks behind cross-border wildlife crime. During the worldwide operation, Interpol recorded 1 974 seizures, which included 43 tons of wild meat, ranging from bear, elephant and crocodile to whale and zebra. Among
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the seizures were 1.3 tons of raw and processed elephant ivory, 27 000 reptiles including 869 alligators/ crocodiles, 9 590 turtles and 10 000 snakes. Almost 4 000 birds were confiscated, including pelicans, ostriches, parrots and owls. Officials seized 48 live primates and 14 big cats, including tiger, lion, leopard and jaguar. Several tons of wood and timber also made it onto the list. Apart from the live tooth sharks at Cape Town pangolin confiscated in International Airport during South Africa, eight tons of an inspection of a container. pangolin scales were seized The sharks were being worldwide. Almost four tons exported to the Netherlands of scales were discovered and indicates that the by Vietnamese maritime problem of live shark authorities, arriving from the smuggling has increased. Democratic Republic The sharks were seized as of Congo. they were being exported In South Africa, the South without the required African Police Service, the permits in terms of the Directorate for Priority Crime Marine Living Resources Act Investigations (Hawks), SARS and the Marine Threatened Customs, the Environmental or Protected Management Species Inspectorate (Green Four endangered Regulations. They had Scorpions) ragged tooth originated from the from Port Department of sharks were Alfred. Environmental Two men Affairs, confiscated arrested in SANParks, Daveyton the provincial by the Hawks, SANParks conservation authorities and the Environmental and the Department Management Inspectorate of Agriculture, Fisheries of the Department of and Forestry (DAFF) law Environmental Affairs for enforcement officers allegedly dealing in rhino participated in the horn formed part of operation. the initiative. Among the successes Customs officials arrested recorded was the two suspects travelling confiscation of four to South Africa at the endangered spotted ragged
Ramatlabama Border Post between South Africa and Botswana for the illegal possession of elephant ivory. Six men were arrested in Pretoria for the illegal possession of a pangolin. The operation, led by the Hawks, followed a suspect offering a pangolin for sale to a policeman. Three men were arrested in Walkerville on May 11 for the unlawful possession of 700kg of abalone valued at R3.5 million. Members of the Green Scorpions, customs officials and fisheries control officers of DAFF searched a ship in Durban harbour, while ad hoc tailgate and container searches were also carried out in the harbour. The Interpol Wildlife Crime Working Group will meet in October to discuss future operations.
Far left: One of four live sharks that were seized in Cape Town. Above: A live pangolin was found in Silverton, Pretoria. Photos: Supplied
Protecting the Cross River
Wild Earth
GORILLA T
here is another gorilla in our midst that needs saving. The Lebialem Highlands in Cameroon paint a very different picture when compared with the guided mountain gorilla treks of Rwanda and Uganda. Deforestation is rife, tourism is nonexistent and Africa’s rarest great ape, the elusive Cross River gorilla, is at risk from population fragmentation. The good news is, this grim picture is slowly changing. In October 2017, the Cross River Gorilla Programme implemented its first wildlife corridor to connect isolated populations and promote gene flow between different areas. The Tofala-Mone Rainforest Corridor connects gorilla populations in Tofala Hill Wildlife Sanctuary through populations in Mone Forest Reserve with the gorillas in Takamanda National Park. The Tofala-Mone Rainforest Corridor is made up of four community forests. The aim is to sustainably manage community forests and create an industry for natural forest products like honey, forest fruits, spices and medicinal plants, which will benefit the local community while allowing the gorillas, and other endemic species, to move peacefully. The Tofala-Mone Rainforest Corridor is working with the Bangwa, Mbo, Mundani and Mock local communities. The Cross River gorilla has totem status among the Cameroonians. They believe their direct ancestors are in the gorilla and therefore will not harm them. “In one or two years we will see the effects of the current measures,” says Arend de Haas, conservation director of the African Conservation Foundation (ACF). Tofala-Mone Rainforest Corridor is the first step of a much larger programme, which aims to strategically link Cross River gorilla
The facts •T he human and gorilla common lineage split 10 million years ago. •T he Cross River gorilla is a subspecies of the western lowland gorilla. •T he remaining Cross River gorilla population is estimated at 250–300. •C ross River gorillas, like other primates, can contract the Ebola virus. •C ross River gorillas forage according to seasons.
The critically endangered Cross River gorilla from Nigeria and Cameroon is not as well known as those often seen on tracking expeditions in tourism brochures. Georgina Lockwood investigates how a new corridor can benefit these primates
populations. There are currently Local subsistence farmers are 11 Cross River gorilla populations increasingly relying on the Nigerian across eight different locations in market for business. As a result, the the montane forests of Cameroon demand for agricultural land has and Nigeria. Cameroon’s remaining led to a surge in deforestation in gorillas have adapted to human the Cross River gorilla range. The encroachment by Lebialem Highlands residing in smaller is one of the oldest groups, one male rainforests in It is estimated there with two to three Africa, forming a females. De Haas crucial biodiversity are only 250 to 300 explains smaller hotspot for not Cross River gorillas groups are more only Cross River discreet and able gorillas but also remaining to flee faster. Nigeria-Cameroon Cross River chimpanzees, gorillas forage drill monkeys and according to seasons, and this Bannerman’s turacos. The creation of natural migration has been blocked more community forests will allow by an increase in villages, agricultural for a more viable population of Cross lands and roads. “As a result, it is River gorillas, preventing them more difficult for them to find good from crossing the proverbial food sources in all seasons, which Great Divide. has an effect on their health and The Cross River Gorilla reproduction rates,” de Haas adds. Programme is an African Their diet consists of leaves, bark, Conservation Foundation herbs and fruits, depending and Environmental and Rural on availability. Development Foundation initiative.
Cross River gorilla habitats Nigeria • Afi Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary • Cross River National Park • Mbe Mountains Cameroon • Takamanda National Park • Mawambi Hills • Mone Forest Reserve (northern half) • Mount Oko area • Eastern Mone Forest Reserve • Upper Mbulu • Kagwene Gorilla Sanctuary • Tofala Hills
Above: The Cross River gorilla is distinguished by its grey fur, redbrown crest and smaller size. Photo: Arend de Haas/ACF Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 5
Living World
Wild goose chase F
alconry is used to manage populations of nuisance animals worldwide. For golfers who have waited for an Egyptian goose to leave before teeing off, the introduction of falconry raptors is clearing a path for a smoother game. In South Africa, the past 30 years has seen an increase in Egyptian geese due to more farm dams, the expansion of agricultural crops and the introduction of urban green space. Lush expanses of grass provide grazing lawns, and open water provides a safe refuge, especially for flightless goslings. The birds are becoming a nuisance, particularly in the Western Cape, where they irritate golfers, residents and greenkeepers by obstructing play, being noisy, and fouling greens and fairways. There are relatively few natural predators on golf courses. Planting reeds or bushes around water bodies and between fairways reduces
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Europcar Safari News ad FA.indd 1
ease of access to the birds’ water refuge. It also reduces the amount of perceived open space by obstructing their view. Another way to make the environment less comfortable is to introduce a predator. Prey animals avoid risky areas and choose to feed and breed in areas where they perceive the risk of threat to be lower. Harris’s hawks have been used with success on several golf courses in the Western Cape and Durban.
Investigations into the impact of falconry on geese living on a golf course in Cape Town showed a reduction in geese by 73%. The geese left the course because of an increased fear of predation, rather than direct predation by the hawks. Because the hawks were flown from a golf cart, geese learnt to associate carts with the threat of predation, therefore reducing the impact of geese on golf courses.
– Rob Little, a manager of the Department of Science and Technology – National Research Foundation Centre of Excellence (CoE) at the FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology, University of Cape Town Above: Egyptian geese have invaded many golf courses in large numbers in the Western Cape and have become a nuisance. Photo: Richard Gie
2018/09/05 11:15
Living World
Barberton’s
World Heritage Site T
he Barberton Makhonjwa 37km Barberton Geotrail (featured Mountains have joined the likes of in Safari News Winter 2018) where Robben Island to become the 10th information boards advise visitors World Heritage Site (WHS) in South about what once lay in front of them, Africa. The area adheres to the strict and what they can see today. In total, criteria set out by the 42nd United 13 developed sites can be seen on Nations Educational, Scientific, the route. “The sites are frequently and Cultural visited by tourists, Organization schools and (Unesco). universities,” These mountains The accolade says Loock. places the contain some of the The area covers Makhonjwa just over 113 000 oldest volcanic and Mountains, hectares; 68% also known as is protected in sedimentary rocks the Barberton nature reserves, on our planet Greenstone Belt, 17% comprises firmly on the timber plantations, map as a tourism and the remaining destination, and is the culmination of 15% consists of livestock grazing and almost 10 years of hard work. untransformed pastureland. Louis Loock, regional manager of Loock says as a formal World Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Heritage Site, the universal value Agency, says the nomination is great must be maintained. “No mining is news for the area. “The WHS will permitted within a WHS.” He says contribute to the socioeconomic they are exploring the possibility growth and development of the area of expanding into eSwatini as the through job creation in both the unique geology of the area does not private as well as the public sectors.” end at the international boundary. The area is not only known Plans are underway to implement for its exceptional beauty, it is a management programme for also geologically important. The the region, which includes the Makhonjwa Mountains on the border development of a visitor centre, of eSwatini (formerly Swaziland) invasive alien plant removal, contain some of the oldest, bestsite maintenance, and tourism preserved and most diverse volcanic opportunities. – René de Klerk and sedimentary rocks on our planet. Researchers have compiled a list of approximately 380 locations that Below: Explore the beautiful offer insight into what the planet was surroundings of the Makhonjwa like three and a half billion years ago. Mountains in Barberton. The sites are best experienced on the Photo: Delia Oosthuizen
Hunting may threaten vulture populations Illegal poisoning, killing for traditional medicine, and collisions with power lines are some of the biggest threats facing vulture populations. But new research shows vultures have yet another threat to contend with: a recent study has revealed that hunters using lead bullets could contribute to lead poisoning in vultures. Rebecca Garbett, a PhD candidate in conservation biology at the University of Cape Town, captured data from 566 white-backed vultures at 15 different locations in Botswana in order to gain more insight into the blood lead levels of vultures. Although hunting in Botswana was banned in 2014, wildlife is still shot on private game farms. Samples were also taken before and after the hunting ban. Results did not show decreased lead levels after the ban. Of the 15 locations, some of which were studied before the ban took place, five sites were within hunting areas and eight outside.
Data shows that 32% of whitebacked vultures had either sub-lethal or potentially lethal blood lead levels, likely from feeding on animals that had been shot. All birds sampled had lead in their blood, although levels were significantly higher during hunting season. Garbett says GPS tracking data from tagged vultures in Botswana shows these scavengers travel widely across international borders throughout the year to find food. Any animal shot below the neck with ammunition containing lead could be contaminated as bullet fragments scatter throughout the carcass. It is common for hunters to leave offal in the open for vultures to feast on after the slaughter. High levels can reduce overall fitness and reproductive output, as no tolerable threshold level exists for either humans or wildlife.
Above: White-backed vultures. Photo: Rebecca Garbett Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 7
Wild Earth
Dazzling zebras in need of conservation
While conservation efforts have aided the Grevy and mountain zebra species, plains zebra research is a horse of a different colour. Georgina Lockwood explores the dazzling world of zebras
Zebra species • Plains zebra (Equus quagga) • Burchell’s zebra (Equus quagga burchellii) • Chapman’s zebra (Equus quagga chapmani) • Crawshay’s zebra (Equus quagga crawshayi) • Grant’s zebra (Equus quagga boehmi) • Maneless zebra (Equus quagga borensis) • Quagga (Equus quagga quagga) – extinct • Mountain zebra (Equus zebra) • Cape mountain zebra (Equus zebra zebra) • Hartmann’s mountain zebra (Equus zebra hartmannae) • Grevy’s zebra (Equus grevyi)
B
arcodes and pedestrian crossings are inspired by the zebra, and this charismatic safari animal is the national animal of Botswana. Despite its photogenic appearance, the zebra is relatively overlooked. All zebras are not equal as there are three different species: the plains zebra that occur in open savannas, the mountain zebra of mountainous terrain, and the Grevy’s zebra in semi-arid areas. Zebras play an important role in the function of grassland ecosystems. “Unlike most of the grazers on the African savanna, zebras are not ruminants. They digest food differently and can get their nutrition from a high-bulk diet, rather than having to find the most nutritious vegetation,” says Dr Sarah King of the IUCN/SSC Equid Specialist Group. “They consume different grasses of different heights from other grazers, so they help maintain diverse grasslands.” The Cape mountain zebra is a conservation success story due to effective management. Today, this Cape floral kingdom endemic species has been conditionally downlisted on CITES. In 2015 the population was estimated at 4 791 individuals. “There is still concern about the loss of genetic diversity and the risk of hybridisation with Hartmann’s mountain zebra and
plains zebra,” warns King. “Hybridisation is likely to have always happened at a low level in areas where both species are present, especially species like the mountain and plains zebra that have the same social system,” says King. Harems of Hartmann’s mountain zebra can be found in escarpment areas with abundant grass species in Namibia, Angola and the Northern Cape province of South Africa. The mountain zebra species are recognisable by their distinguished dewlap. There are five existing species of the water-loving plains zebra, and an estimated 500 000 plains zebra in Africa. The population has undergone a 24% decline since 2002, which is concerning. “There is surprisingly little information on the charismatic savanna fauna like plains zebra,” says King. “We badly need to know what is driving their decline.” While more is known about the Grevy’s and mountain zebra, it appears the common zebra species has been hiding in plain sight of research funding. The maneless zebra subspecies has the northernmost range of the plains zebra. Its mane resembles a clipped polo pony, and it has particularly striking ebony and ivory markings.
Go to page 28 for info on the Great Grevy’s Rally. Page 8 | Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News
The Grant’s zebra is the smallest and arguably the most well known of the plains zebra, as it takes part in the Great Migration. There are an estimated 200 000 Grant’s zebra in the greater Serengeti/Mara ecosystem, according to the IUCN report compiled by King. Dazzles of Crawshay’s zebra can be seen in Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania and Mozambique. It is differentiated by its lower incisors, which lack the funnel shape of other plains zebra, and has thinner barcode-like stripes. Moving south, the Chapman’s zebra is found in South Africa, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia and Angola. It is recognised by its stocky build and shadow stripes. Geographically, the Burchell’s zebra has the southernmost range and is the only plains zebra species legally allowed to be consumed. It has prominent shadow stripes and is known for the longest migration routes of any zebra, prior to modernday fencing. Surprisingly, a 2011 study by Dr Hattie Bartlam-Brooks from the University of Bristol found
Wild Earth
that zebras resumed their same migration routes once fences were removed, even if the route had been blocked for over 30 years. The quagga became extinct in the late 19th century due to hunting. The Quagga Project has resulted in a quagga-like animal known as the Rau quagga by breeding plains zebra
Prior to modern-day fencing, Burchell’s zebra is known for the longest migration routes with quagga attributes. A University of Copenhagen study revealed there is remarkably little genetic diversity between subspecies. “There is a danger in assuming that zebra do not need conservation as we are so familiar with pictures of massive herds migrating, but like the
giraffe, cheetah and lion there are fewer than expected,” says King. The critically endangered Grevy’s zebra has large ears and is the closest to a field guide’s term of endearment of ‘a donkey in pyjamas’. The Grevy’s zebra occurs in Kenya and in small numbers in Ethiopia. It is regionally extinct in Sudan and Somalia. The Grevy’s zebra differs from other zebras as it is less dependent on water and has a fission-fusion (loose) social structure, says Belinda Low Mackey from the Grevy’s Zebra Trust. The largest threats to zebras today are habitat degradation, competition with domestic livestock, reduced access to water, range restriction, and hunting for bush meat and hides.
Top: Critically endangered Grevy’s zebras. Left: Both Chapman’s and Burchell’s zebra occur in Namibia. Image taken in Etosha National Park. Right: Crawshay’s zebra has a recognisable tight line formation. Photos: Mia Collis, Joaquín Romero Redondo, Prabir K Bhattacharyya
Tick off your bucket list •V isit Kenya’s Samburu National Reserve in the Rift Valley to see Grevy’s zebra. Stay in one of six private villas at the luxurious Saruni Samburu Safari Lodge. •T hen, head to the world renowned Masai Mara National Park to witness the great migration and the luxurious Saruni Mara. From R65 222 per person sharing.
Use your cellphone camera or QR scanner app to scan and follow the QR link above Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 9
Living World
Unique fundraising experiences aid conservation R
hino poaching is a reality infiltrating many of our protected areas, and rangers are fighting hard to protect our natural heritage. However, without the necessary equipment and sufficient funds to acquire it, it is difficult for rangers to work effectively. Fortunately, this has changed over the last few years in Pilanesberg National Park in the North West.
During the process, a microchip Through innovative fundraising is inserted into the horn and their initiatives run by the Pilanesberg ears are notched. Dell says corporate Wildlife Trust (PWT), much of the groups are keen on supporting crucial conservation work gets done rhino notching while donors are experiences. The offered a onceDonors are offered price covers the in-a-lifetime cost of the vet and experience. a once-in-a-lifetime the helicopter. Perry Dell, To notch a single marketing and experience while the rhino during 2018 public relations conservation work costs R48 000, but manager for the a second rhino can PWT says the trust gets done be added to the raised close to experience for only R2 million last R18 000. “It is a hands-on experience year alone. and very popular,” says Dell. The PWT Their most popular fundraising initially started with rhino notching effort entails rhino notching, a as its only fundraising method, but procedure where a rhino is darted, this has grown to include a range and samples are taken and added to of projects. the rhino DNA indexing system The trust sells an assortment of for identification.
Slithery snakes care for their young Snakes don’t have the best reputation for parenting their offspring. However, researchers from the University of Witwatersrand discovered complex, caring behaviour not usually expected from snakes. Professor Graham Alexander from the Alexander Herp Lab at the Wits School of Animal, Plant and Environmental Sciences, found that mother pythons not only went to great lengths to incubate their eggs, but also stayed with their offspring for two weeks after hatching. During this time, the mothers coiled themselves around the hatched eggs at night, keeping them warm and Page 10 | Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News
protected. “This is the first report of maternal care of babies in an egglaying snake,” says Alexander. Alexander’s seven-year study was conducted at Dinokeng Game Reserve in Gauteng where he tracked 37 pythons using radio transmitters. Alexander found that female snakes do not eat during the breeding cycle – for periods of longer than six months – causing them to lose 40% of their body mass. In order to elevate their body temperature, the mother pythons would bask in the sun near the entrance to their burrows during the day. The mothers would then return to their nests at
night to warm their newly hatched offspring. “All of this takes its toll on mother pythons: they take a long time to recover after breeding and so can only produce a clutch every second or third year,” says Alexander. Alexander also found that offspring would head out into the sunshine during the day, basking together near the entrance to their burrows before returning to the safety of the mother snake’s coils at night. While this is not necessarily new behaviour in snakes, it indicates there is still a lot to learn about the behaviour of reptiles such as pythons. – Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld
curio items, from stickers to silver jewellery, from their stand at the Pilanesberg Centre. “The sale of these items has become so popular we can’t keep up with the demand,” says Dell. Golf days as well as cycle and running events contribute further to the fundraising income. Dell says as awareness of the PWT has grown, so has the support. “There is a lot of sympathy for this scourge, so people are keen to donate.” Visit www.pilanesbergwildlifetrust. co.za for more info.
Above: A group experience the excitement of rhino notching first hand. Left: Fundraising projects at Pilanesberg Centre help to protect the rhino. Photos: Perry Dell
Living World
Tides slowly changing for
Cape’s fishy history T
he Cape Floral Region has the highest number of threatened indigenous fish species in its rivers for a South African region, with many of these species found nowhere else in the world. Throughout the years, these fish have had to fight for survival due to invasive fish species and degradation of their habitat. Alien fish such as smallmouth bass, rainbow trout, sharptooth catfish and carp have made their way into rivers and dams, but not by accident, and not even as the result of illegal introductions like stocking fish without permits. Dig a little deeper and you discover nature conservation in the Cape has a fishy past. “Invasive fish species is not a problem unique to South Africa,” says Dean Impson, freshwater fish ecologist at CapeNature. He says the Cape region has few indigenous angling fish and with nature conservation non-existent nearly 100 years ago, the unthinkable happened. Small- and largemouth bass, rainbow trout, sharptooth catfish and carp were introduced into rivers and dams between 1890 and 1970, solely for angling purposes. This was managed through the former Cape Division of Inland Fisheries (now known as CapeNature). Jonkershoek kurper populations collapse through outside Stellenbosch had the largest predation.” The biggest problem fish hatching facility in Africa, and is indigenous fish evolved without its sole mandate was to introduce predatory fish. “If you swim in the fish from elsewhere to stock inland Cape streams, the fish approach you. waters for angling and food. They are curious, so it is no surprise Some changes came in the 1950s that predatory alien fish annihilated when the department changed to them in the clear streams of the the Cape Department of Nature region.” The stocking of trout Conservation. However, with an continued into the 1970s, but inland fisheries division, the stocking change was on the horizon. With the continued. “Things were different publication of the then,” says Impson. first Red Data Book “When European for fish by Dr Paul Small indigenous people arrived Skelton, individuals in the Cape and started questioning fish had completely saw few large why conservation disappeared from fish species, they funds went decided to fix towards stocking areas where invasive the problem.” ecologically fish proliferated Little did they harmful aliens. The realise the effect focus slowly shifted it would have to the breeding of on indigenous species. “River indigenous fish and halting the stock surveys from the late 1960s showed of alien fish in sensitive areas. indigenous fish were in deep Since the 1990s, the focus has trouble,” says Impson. “They found moved away from hatcheries and that small indigenous fish such as towards conservation of the habitat. redfin minnows and Cape kurper “We need the river to look after the had completely disappeared from fish instead of putting more fish into areas where invasive fish proliferated. the river,” says Impson. The problem In fact, as early as the 1920s fishery with hatcheries is not only disease experts such as Sydney Hey realised and genetics, but fish released from the introduction of trout into streams hatcheries are also not familiar with saw redfin minnow and Cape the local conditions of the river. While
CapeNature no longer supports stocking of aliens, invasive species continue to reach rivers. “Sharptooth catfish are not indigenous to fynbos, but now occur in all our major rivers. “They were probably illegally introduced by anglers, as no permits have been issued for such stocking.” Impson says the Breede and Berg rivers have become inundated with catfish in the last two decades, as a single female can produce up to 30 000 eggs. To undo the damage of the past, rehabilitation plans are underway in many of the province’s rivers. These include control projects to deal with invasive plants that choke many of
the region’s rivers and reduce dry season flows, as well as successful control projects on bass in two small rivers in the Cederberg, which are not priorities for angling. A great deal of work lies ahead, but it is hoped improvement projects will assist indigenous species in reclaiming some of the rivers. – René de Klerk
Above: A school of indigenous redfin minnows in a Cederberg stream. Below: Sharptooth catfish, a hardy prolific predator, have been illegally stocked in rivers of the Cape Floral Region. Photos: Dean Impson, Mike Dolhoff
Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 11
Living World
A lifeline for
leopards T
Bolder not better for penguins A recent study by the Percy FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology and Nelson Mandela University has revealed shy penguins have better breeding success. The study looked at the behaviour of African penguin pairs to determine their breeding success, and focused on the risk-taking behaviour of penguins on Bird Island within Addo Elephant National Park. To test how bold or shy penguins are, researchers approached nests where a single penguin was present, and crouched down one metre from the nest. After filming and observing the behaviour of the individuals for 30 seconds, the researchers moved away. Special care was taken to minimise disturbance to these endangered birds. Individuals were termed bold when they displayed more attacks and threats, and less alertness and backward movement. Results showed penguins with at least one risk-prone, bold parent were at a disadvantage. In the study, males tended to be bolder, probably as they are the gender that claims territory. Shy penguins had the greatest success in rearing their chicks, especially during periods of food shortages. Bold parents may defend their nests successfully against predation when food is abundant, but this strategy is not beneficial when food availability is low. This is because high energy expenditure may become too costly when food availability is limited. Shy penguins on the other hand were more successful in rearing chicks, investing more energy in foraging, especially during times of food shortages. Page 12 | Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News
hey say a leopard cannot change its spots, but members of the Nazareth Baptist Shembe Church are changing their way of thinking. After more than five years of work with conservationists, many church members are warming up to the idea of safeguarding the leopard. An essential part of the traditional outfit worn by male Shembe members includes a leopard skin cape draped over the shoulders. The church is one of the fastest-growing religions in South Africa, with an estimated membership of between one and five million people. The use of leopard skin capes caused concern among many, especially after Panthera, an organisation devoted to protecting the world’s wild cat species and their ecosystems, discovered Shembe members used up to 15 000 pelts at a single annual gathering. When Panthera noticed some members had opted for a more economical option in the form of imitation leopard skin capes, they came up with a solution. “The cost of real skin capes varies from approximately R3 500 for a small, poor quality one to about R8 000,” says Gareth WhittingtonJones, Panthera’s Furs for Life project coordinator. Partnering with the Peace Parks Foundation, with jeweller Cartier as a sponsor, five years ago Panthera was able to design and manufacture its first realistic faux fur capes – named amambatha – at a fraction of the price. Today, 50% of all skins used at ceremonies are leopard-friendly. “We aim to transition to a completely self-sustaining business model,” says Whittington-Jones. The expected retail price is less than R1 000. The concept will be extended
to other cultural groups that use leopard skins. The Lozi tribe in Zambia has already pledged support. Just under 18 000 capes have been distributed through the Furs for Life Project. Visit www.panthera.org/furs-for-life for more info. – René de Klerk
The traditional outfit worn by male Shembe members includes a leopard skin cape
Top: A Shembe dancer wearing a Panthera amambatha. Above: An example of a real leopard skin cape on the left and Panthera’s faux fur cape on the right. Left: Shembe members dancing at the annual eBuhleni gathering earlier this year. Photos: Gareth Whittington-Jones
Living World
Illegal wildlife trade rampant on Facebook
The Center on Illicit Networks and Transnational Organized Crime (CINTOC) recently conducted extensive analysis of wildlife crime activity on social media platforms. William Wechsler and Gretchen Peters share their concerns.
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INTOC identified at least six large wildlife syndicates operating on Facebook, mainly based in Asia and the Gulf. As in an investigation by another organisation, we found an astounding quantity of endangered animal products being marketed in closed and secret groups. We logged thousands of images of rhino horn, bear claws, tiger skins, various reptiles, and tons of elephant ivory on these groups. Postings offered everything from ivory bangles to dead baby tigers piled onto scales. Earlier this year, a US member of Congress accused Facebook of facilitating the extinction of elephants at a time when the world is losing 30 000 elephants a year to poachers. This was stated during enquiries by American lawmakers. When Buddy Carter, a representative from Georgia, levelled this allegation at founder Mark Zuckerberg, the Facebook CEO replied that he was not aware it was happening. Wechsler and Peters explained that Facebook provides a space that is anonymous, global, and free of regulation, which enables illegal wildlife sellers to connect with and market to customers. They added that some sellers use Instagram to trade photos with prospective buyers, and WhatsApp to communicate
about sales. Facebook owns both these companies. “Our organisation did not set out to single out Facebook. CINTOC analysts scanned for illegal wildlife activity across multiple social media platforms, including Yahoo, WeChat and eBay. Most other US platforms appear to monitor for illegal wildlife and attempt to delete it,” they stated. Wechsler and Peters stressed that Facebook should root out criminal activity on its platform. This follows similar statements from the American and other governments after privacy concerns emerged as a result of the Cambridge Analytica scandal. “Other international investigations have also identified illegal sales of illegal opioids and counterfeit goods and human trafficking,” Peters said. On whether Facebook should be held liable for the acts of its users, Zuckerberg has repeatedly raised the view that Facebook runs a technology firm and that users’ action should not render the company liable. Wechsler and Peters reacted by likening Facebook to American banks. “Bankers made a similar argument in the 1980s when concerns spiked about money laundering during the war on drugs,” Wechsler said. That prompted the US
federal government to mandate that banks report suspicious transactions to authorities. Laws put the onus on the banks to control and report on illegal activity occurring in their systems. Peters and Wechsler believe social media firms, including Facebook, must face the same types of regulation. “There is an opportunity for Facebook to use its data to collaborate with law enforcement and restore its battered reputation,” Peters stated, adding that Facebook could “put authorities in the position to stage a massive wildlife law enforcement operation that would have a strategic impact in the fight to save iconic species like the elephant, rhino and tiger from extinction.” Reference was made to a previous statement by Zuckerberg describing Facebook as an “idealistic and optimistic company”. “At CINTOC we are optimistic that animal species can be saved from extinction, and that Facebook can be part of the solution,” Wechsler said.
William Wechsler and Gretchen Peters are president and executive director of the Center on Illicit Networks and Transnational Organized Crime. Wechsler is a former deputy assistant secretary of defense for counternarcotics and global threats. Peters co-chaired an OECD task force on countering the illegal wildlife trade and consults to law enforcement globally on transnational organised crime.
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Living World
Conservation heroes celebrated are at the sharp end of environmental crime. “Every day, these brave men and women put their lives at risk to protect our endangered species,” said Thompson. Rangers are often outnumbered by wellarmed and well-organised poachers and criminal gangs, she explained. “They continue to soldier on, and for this they deserve nothing but our deepest respect and admiration.” Mathebula was the first field ranger to be killed in contact since stepped-up efforts to combat the scourge of rhino poaching in Kruger National Park. He is survived by his wife and their four children. According to the International Ranger Federation, more than 870 rangers have lost their lives since 2009, with 327 of these deaths occurring in Africa.
During July, 33-year-old Respect Mathebula was shot and killed in a shoot-out with suspected poachers in Kruger National Park. He did what most people do every day – he went to work. But his work cost him his life. Many rangers put their lives on the line doing what they love, and it is for this reason World Ranger Day is commemorated internationally on July 31 – to celebrate the work rangers do to protect the world’s natural resources, and to commemorate those killed in the line of duty. In the past, the biggest threat to rangers came from dangerous game. Today, the danger comes from humans with rifles, who will stop at nothing to take what they want, whether it is rhino horn, elephant tusks, abalone or other natural resources. At a celebration in the Addo Elephant National Park, deputy minister of Environmental Affairs Barbara Thompson said the responsibility lies with all of us, but the rangers
Amazing Safaris 100x275.pdf
Below: Rangers display their skills at World Ranger Day on the Darlington Dam at Addo Elephant National Park. Photo: René de Klerk
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11:19
Elephants
return to Darlington
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fter an absence of 150 years, elephants are once again roaming the Darlington section of the Addo Elephant National Park. On July 31, World Ranger Day, the first of 28 animals were released in this section of the park, after years of planning to move the animals back to the area where they historically occurred. Four months before the move, a family group was selected from the park’s main game area, which is currently home to 600 elephants. The move will alleviate some of the pressure in this area, and also provide a new habitat for the pachyderms. Addo’s senior section ranger Anban Padayachee says they will be keeping an eye on the elephants to
see how they adapt. The Darlington section is known for its succulent Karoo vegetation as opposed to the thicket in the main game area. “Food is not a problem here, but they are used to being around other families and communicating with each other,” he says. Transporting the elephants to Darlington brought several challenges. The first elephants were anticipated to arrive just after lunch, but due to tyre pressure issues on the heavily loaded truck, mountain passes and the long distance, the elephants only arrived after dark. In 1931 when the park was proclaimed, only 11 elephants remained, as a result of hunting. Today, the park protects entire ecosystems as opposed to single species. The park’s
rich diversity spans five of South Africa’s nine biomes and includes Albany thicket, fynbos, forest, Nama Karoo and the Indian Ocean Coastal Belt. The Darlington section covers about 45 000 hectares and includes the Darlington Dam. Lion, leopard, buffalo, gemsbok, springbok, red hartebeest and kudu already roam the area and Padayachee says there are hopes wild dogs might be next to join. Deon de Vos, mayor for the Dr Beyers Naude Local Municipality says the nearby town of Jansenville should benefit too, as tourists could stay at local guest houses. – René de Klerk
Above: Elephants are back at Darlington. Photo: SANParks
Wild Earth
Saving the
paintbrush lily from extinction
A rare species of paintbrush lily is in danger of being wiped from the planet for good. But scientists from Stellenbosch University are using tissue culture to try and save populations from extinction. By Taryn Arnott van Jaarsveld
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The facts •O nly 10–15cm high, Haemanthus pumilio is one of the smallest paintbrush lilies in existence. •T he plants usually flower during March and April, before the leaves develop. •T his species prefers to flower after fire, when there is less competition from other vegetation. •T here are only 22 species of Haemanthus, all of which are endemic to Southern Africa. At least 12 of these species are listed in the South African Red Data List. •T he plant’s most viable population is found in Duthie Nature Reserve in Banhoekweg, Stellenbosch.
cientists from Stellenbosch University are trying to save a species of lily endemic to the Western Cape, from extinction. The paintbrush lily grows between Somerset West and Wellington. There are just 150 individual paintbrush lily (Haemanthus pumilio) plants left in the plant’s natural habitat in the Duthie Nature Reserve in Stellenbosch, host to the only viable population of these plants. In total, about 500 of the plants are found in various populations in the Western Cape. “Apart from being fire-dependent, Haemanthus pumilio prefer ground that is dry in summer but waterlogged and marshy in winter. That is why the Duthie Reserve still remains the most suitable habitat for the survival of this rare and critically endangered plant,” says Martin Smit, curator of the Stellenbosch University Botanical Garden. The main reasons for the plant’s decline are the destruction of its original renosterveld habitat and pressure from invasives like Port Jackson (Acacia saligna). The Duthie Reserve is now a third of the size it once was, and the plant’s fire dependency has also placed it in jeopardy. “Fire clears vegetation in the area
material, and induce the formation where the bulbs are, providing a of bulblets (little bulbs) from these clear space for the bulbs to grow in using the correct plant hormone winter,” says Stellenbosch University treatments,” Hills explains. plant biotechnologist Dr Paul Hills. To avoid the inbreeding effect of But Duthie Reserve was last burned using tissue from a single explant, in 2004. the team will identify genetically Smit has developed a diverse individuals within the management plan for the population through molecular Duthie Reserve that emphasises genetic analysis. “This way, we can conservation of this plant. generate as many different lines of Hills and botanist Dr Gary Stafford plants as possible,” are using tissue he adds. culture – essentially Without some sort The team will a high-tech version use phylogenetic of taking cuttings of intervention, analysis to from a plant – determine to propagate this species could the genetic individual plants become extinct in diversity within from a variety and between of genotypes to the very near future populations. While allow for potential the tissue culture repopulation of samples and several seeds have dwindling populations. The team has already started growing in the tissue collected leaf samples and seed from culture lab, the first seedlings will Duthie, and from seven individuals only be viable by the end of 2018. from a now-extinct population in These flowers do not self-pollinate. Wellington. “We aim to take leaves, “We therefore have to try crosswhich means we do not have to pollinating the flowers with a destroy the whole plant to gain paintbrush,” says Hills. They also take at least three years before they are ready to flower. “Without some sort of intervention, this species could become extinct in the very near future,” says Hills. “We already know that another population was lost in 2018 due to agricultural expansion. It is imperative that we take action while we still can.”
Top left and top right: Paintbrush lilies prefer ground that is dry in summer but waterlogged and marshy in winter. Left: Martin Smit is working with Dr Paul Hills (left) and Dr Gary Stafford (right) to increase the paintbrush lily population through tissue culture cultivation. BSc Hons student Dominique West will conduct the micropropagation and systematic analysis. Photos: Stefan Els, Paul Hills, Gary Stafford Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 15
Wild Earth
False Bay has a new
TOP PREDATOR Not much is known about the broadnose sevengill shark as they are not a large commercial species. However, new research shows sevengills are important apex predators in the False Bay ecosystem, an important milestone in shark ecology. Leigh de Necker tells us more
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skates and rays, but Cape fur seals he white shark (Carcharodon and bony fish also form part of carcharias) has a reputation as their diet. Being top predators, it one of the ocean’s top predators. is thought sevengills have become But in False Bay’s temperate water picky eaters due to the wide menu kelp forests, another charismatic selection, allowing individuals to aquatic individual is challenging specialise. The most significant the white shark for the title of top finding is sevengills constantly feed predator: the broadnose sevengill on seals, whereas white sharks move shark (Notorynchus cepedianus), between habitats, feeding on seals also known as the cow shark. Unlike seasonally. “I was the white shark surprised by the with its torpedofindings that shaped body and New science is sevengill sharks fed water-slicing dorsal placing the cow more frequently fin, the sevengill higher up on the seems to lack most shark at the top food chain than typical attributes. white sharks. It However, end of the False Bay highlights the hidden behind ecosystem importance of a deceptively studies like this to gummy smile are better understand the sharp serrated the relative importance top predators teeth of a very successful hunter. have on their prey, as this in turn In fact, new research has just placed impacts our understanding of the cow shark at the top end of the the structure and function of the False Bay ecosystem. ecosystem,” says SANParks marine Sevengills are considered an biologist Dr Alison Kock. Prey in False opportunistic/generalist species as Bay is abundant; sevengills and white they consume a variety of coastal sharks are likely to use their shared prey species from different habitats. menu differently as hunting activity Their preferred prey is other sharks, Page 16 | Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News
may differ in technique, season and time of day. Essentially, based on reports from boats near Seal Island, the species seem to stay out of each other’s way – sevengills were only visible when the white sharks weren’t present. Diet varies significantly between mature and immature female sevengill sharks. Smaller females have a higher proportion of Cape fur seals in their diet. Juvenile females are believed to scavenge on, and potentially hunt, seal pups around Seal Island, while mature sharks are restricted to coastal waters away from seal colonies for reproductive reasons. Scientists believe the sevengill shark hunts at night, making it challenging to observe hunting behaviour. Sevengills are a low-value fishery species across most of their global distribution, but their preference for coastal temperate waters makes them a vulnerable catch, even if not directly targeted. Globally, there are limited management policies or conservation considerations for this species, and commercial exploitation in South Africa is currently
The facts •7 : the number of gill slits in the sevengill shark. Sharks typically have five gill slits. •T he sevengill shark appears to have no dorsal fin because it is situated further back on its body. •A lso known as the cow shark, they can reach a maximum length of 290cm and are thought to live up to 30 years. •S evengill males are considered mature at 4–5 years old, while females mature at 11–21 years when they reach a total length of approximately 220cm. •D ue to this shark’s mysterious behaviour it is classified as Data Deficient on the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List.
unrestricted. To date, sevengill sharks have not been studied widely due to a lack of funding and interest. Other charismatic and commercially important species, such as great whites, often receive all the attention and as a result, data on sevengills is limited. “Hopefully studies like these not only fill knowledge gaps, but also raise the profile of this important predator,” explains Kock. – Leigh de Necker, marine biologist and aquarist at the Two Oceans Aquarium
Above: The gummy grin of a broadnose sevengill shark. Photo: Morne Hardenberg/ Shark Explorers
Gear Guide
The latest outdoor gear to take along on your next trip
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Gear Guide
Stay in touch Sony Mobile Communications has released its highly anticipated Xperia XZ2 and travellers will be pleased to hear it has the world’s longest battery life when compared with five leading smartphones, making it ideal for adventuring in remote places. It is also equipped with the latest 4K HDR movie recording and received the Best of Mobile World Congress 2018 PhoneArena Award. Available for R12 299 from Takealot.com.
Snake savvy
Chic duffel bag For the stylish traveller, the leather Rowdy duffel bag comes in four natural leather hues. Made in South Africa, the Rowdy duffel bag includes a lifetime product warranty. From R2 600 (small), www.rowdybags.com.
App
This snakebite app separates fact from fiction. Internationally renowned herpetologist Johan Marais of the African Snakebite Institute developed the free ASI Snake App so that people can learn the correct way to treat different types of snakebites, whether neurotoxic, cytotoxic or hemotoxic. The app includes the distribution range and colour photographs of common snakes in Southern Africa to help users positively identify them. Alternatively, upload your snake pics to be positively identified by an expert. It also lists over 450 snake removal companies. Visit www.africansnakebiteinstitute. com/app to download the app for free!
Hand-crafted local veldskoen Strassbergers Veldskoen (Stitchdowns), made in the age old tradition by South Africa’s finest shoemakers. Available from Unique Feet - Custom Footwear Experts Since 1982. From R1200 at www.uniquefeet.co.za.
Madikwe, only a 45 minute flight from Johannesburg yet worlds away.
Book one of Madikwe’s luxury lodges for the summer with:
1. Open camera 2. Point at code 3. Click on link Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 17
Tented Adventure
Living World
Liwonde cheetah are thriving H
istory was made when several cheetah cubs took their first steps in the Liwonde National Park in 2017 and 2018. Not only did this momentous occasion see the first litters of cheetahs born in the wild in Malawi in more than 20 years, this is also a huge conservation success story. In just over a year, Liwonde’s cheetah population grew from zero to 16, says Olivia Sievert, Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) cheetah monitor based in Liwonde. The founder group released in June 2017 consisted of two males and two females from various reserves in South Africa. In February 2018, the cheetah population became another three animals richer following a second introduction. “All cubs are doing extremely well, which is very impressive as each female is a first-time mother,” says Sievert. She says they were able to determine the fathers of each litter after collaring the males, helping to ensure genetic integrity in the future. According to Vincent van der Merwe, cheetah metapopulation coordinator at the EWT, the 54 000-hectare Liwonde National Park has a current capacity to accommodate 40 animals. The park is managed by conservation organisation African Parks in partnership with the Malawian government. This capacity will change with the active and effective management of the park, and with the introduction of more predators. When African Parks assumed the management of the park with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) in 2015, very few predators remained, and wildlife was threatened by poaching and conflict. Lions had not been seen for 10 years and the park was inundated with snares – almost 30 000 were removed in the first year
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of African Parks’ management. Liwonde park manager Craig Reid says tourism is on the rise. Lions were reintroduced over a series of translocations in 2018, and the park is the source of the famous ‘500 Elephant’ translocation. This has all had a positive effect on the communities too. “Employment and service provision opportunities are increasing, stimulating the local economy in an area where few opportunities exist,” says Reid. The cheetah reintroductions formed part of EWT’s Cheetah Metapopulation Project and African Parks’ predator restoration plan. The aim of the EWT project is to relocate threatened cheetah to ensure genetic and population viability, increasing the amount of safe space for the species. South Africa has a
growing wild cheetah population and therefore sights are set on destinations further afield. EWT is capitalising on this by providing wild cheetahs to repopulate areas where cheetah occurred historically. Malawi will play a significant role in the protection and conservation of this endangered carnivore. “We are hoping to establish a metapopulation cluster in Malawi, which will include Majete Wildlife Reserve too,” says van der Merwe. Majete is in the south of Malawi and has been managed by African Parks since 2003. – René de Klerk
Below and right: The cheetahs reintroduced to Liwonde National Park in Malawi are doing well. Photos: Olivia Sievert
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Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 19
THE GREAT OUTDOORS AWAITS. FLY SAA.
Live life like the adventure it is and experience the great outdoors. With over 20 destinations in Africa to discover, SAA is always ready to connect you to the rest of our continent and its rich wildlife. Book your seat at flysaa.com or contact your nearest travel agent.
Wild Earth
Happy little
waddlers
A penguin colony in Stony Point is becoming a success due to innovative adaptive management. By René de Klerk
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hile a group of penguins waddle towards the ocean to head out hunting for a declining resource, their partners remain at nest sites keeping eggs warm and protected. The wooden boardwalk is an ebb and flow of tourists winding their way through the colony, all eager to catch a glimpse of this endangered species. Today, the Stony Point Penguin and Seabird Breeding Colony, part of the Kogelberg Nature Reserve Complex, is one of only two shore-based breeding colonies in South Africa. The other is the Boulders Colony in Simons Town. The arrival of the penguins 36 years ago changed a lot in Betty’s Bay, says CapeNature senior marine manager Cuan McGeorge. When the penguins arrived, community groups called for their protection; African penguins were
already vulnerable at the time. But their conservation efforts did not come without problems. First, predators discovered the penguins and in 1986 a leopard wiped out 90% of the colony. The leopard was relocated, but returned three weeks later and continued the killing. “The population was almost wiped out
The task to sustain a viable habitat for the endangered species is challenging entirely,” says McGeorge. Then the community requested a fence, an intervention that saved the penguins, but was detrimental to their habitat. Guano has a high alkalinity and, as a result, causes fynbos to die over time. “The penguins simply swam around the fence ends and moved further inland to find a more suitable habitat for breeding,” says McGeorge. The original breeding location became barren and in 2010 a management intervention was called for. The solution came in the form of brush-packing from invasive clearing projects to create windbreaks. This intervention also changed the behaviour of the penguins. “It was no longer necessary for penguins to burrow as branches offered the perfect shelter by raising nest sites,” McGeorge explains. The ground cover returned. However, with penguins being an important
keystone species, Stony Point also became home to other seabirds. “Penguins dive deep and food ball fish to the surface, which helps other seabirds have a fair share of the declining food resource,” says McGeorge. Today, bank cormorants, crowned cormorants and Cape cormorants breed here. Although all are endangered species, they have also created more work. Cape cormorants breed up to three times in summer at Stony Point. “Last year we counted 2 800 Cape cormorant breeding pairs, therefore they need nesting material.” They found this in the ground cover that grew over the brush-packed material initially established to help the penguins breed successfully. McGeorge says the task to sustain a viable habitat for the endangered species is challenging and assistance is required from the community and volunteers to make it a success. “People caused the problem originally, therefore we need to source a solution, something that is possible here at Stony Point as we are a mainland colony where resources are available on our doorstep, unlike that of an island colony.”
The facts • Decades ago, penguins only bred on islands, but with guano harvesting having devastated their breeding habitat, seals competing for similar food resources and the commercial over-exploitation of fish, it was no longer a balanced environment. • Betty’s Bay was quiet, the habitat was intact and there were no seals. • For the Jackass penguins that discovered this location, it was heaven. • These birds became the first penguins to breed successfully on mainland Africa and were renamed African penguins.
Top: A group of African penguins waddle at Stony Point, home to around 2 000 pairs. Above: A growing population of cormorants uses Stony Point as a breeding area. Left: A penguin commuting to the sea. Photos: René de Klerk Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 21
Wander
Going wild in Mashatu I
magine yourself on the back of a horse, riding through vast stretches of land north of the Limpopo River. Giant mashatu trees decorate the landscape, colourful bee-eaters chirp next to the river, and a leopard yawns lazily in the shade nearby. Not far away, a herd of elephants gulp up water from a puddle in the dry riverbed. Here, in the arid Kalahari, rain hardly ever interrupts spectacular sightings, but there are exceptions. Back in 2000, tropical cyclone LeonEline smashed into the east coast of Southern Africa, causing severe
This land of giants offers excellent photographic opportunities and great wildlife sightings, with a touch of luxury for the discerning traveller. By René de Klerk flooding and storms. At the time, horses from Limpopo Horse Safaris broke free from their stables and disappeared into the wilderness. Eventually all of the horses made their way back, except one. Zulu, a stallion descended from Namib Desert horses, was presumed dead. Years later, however, he was seen alive and well – living as the alpha male to a herd of zebras. Eventually
recaptured, Zulu had become a much wiser horse. The remarkable story of his survival is perfectly captured in author David Bristow’s book, Running Wild: The Story of Zulu, an African Stallion (Jacana). Horse riding is just one of the many activities on offer at the Mashatu Game Reserve – quite fitting, as you will experience the surroundings through Zulu’s eyes. But don’t
despair; the reserve is not only for experienced riders. Apart from the scheduled game drives, other options include guided cycling, wilderness walks and underground photographic hides. Walks are almost always about the smaller things. If you’re lucky, you might even happen upon a hyena den along the way. While these scavengers keep their distance, a few
In the wild, size does count ...
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Know before you go
Wander
•T ravel: Plan your journey in advance. You won’t use your own vehicle in the reserve. Once you cross through the South African side of the Pont Drift border, you will leave your vehicle behind. The scheduled pickup is at 1pm. Additional fees apply for late arrivals. • Remember: Make sure you have the necessary documents, including ownership papers, or a letter from the bank or car rental company to cross the border. •C rossing the Limpopo River: Additional fees apply for transport via the cableway or boat during the wet season. • Stay: The main lodge offers 14 luxury private suites with a double and single bed, seating area and en-suite bathroom. Rates of R5 575 per person per night sharing include all meals, snacks, game drives and transfers from the border in low season.
Looking to get closer to nature? Mashatu Tented Camp from R4 835 per person sharing This includes accommodation, meals, game drives and transfers. Mashatu Tented Camp is located in the northern region of the Tuli Game Reserve. The eco-friendly tented suites and unfenced camp give visitors a truly wild Botswana experience. The open-air dining area, bar, boma and swimming pool creates the perfect experience. The real magic exists in the incredible wildlife surrounding the camp. To book, visit www.safari.com/ mashatu-tented-camp/
inquisitive youngsters might come close to investigate. Not to worry though – the knowledgeable guides know exactly what to do to make sure the hyenas do not get too close. Game drives deliver every time. From a leopard with a cub, cheetahs in their numbers, elephant herds or Zulu’s zebra friends – there’s plenty to
see. This 29 000-hectare reserve also boasts more than 350 bird species, many of which can be spotted in the vegetation around the main camp. Time flies at Mashatu, so set aside a few hours to explore the camp in between all the activities and meals. It’s a little piece of Botswana that will draw you back again and again.
Main: Three inquisitive hyenas come closer to investigate during a guided morning walk. Top: The luxury rooms are tastefully decorated, offer a comfortable stay, and include air conditioning. Left: See the reserve from a different vantage point by going on a horse safari. This is for experienced riders only. Above: Expect the unexpected. You never know what you will come across on foot. Below: During warmer periods, the swimming pool offers welcome relief from the heat. It is also the central feature of the camp. Photos: René de Klerk
Use your cellphone camera or QR scanner app to scan and follow the QR link above
Plan your adventure •H ave a drink at The Gin Trap while watching game at the nearby waterhole. •D iscover all things Mashatu at the Discovery Room in the main camp. This includes archaeological artefacts, reconstructed skeletons, and research findings. •L ounge next to the pool or cool down in the water during hot days. •V isit a hide or embark on one of the other guided activities on offer. •A sk about the archaeological ruins in the reserve. Mashatu contains the sister ruins to the Kingdom of Mapungubwe and archaeology that dates back over one million years.
Mashatu Game Reserve lies just north of the mighty Limpopo River in Botswana and forms part of the Northern Tuli Game Reserve. The nearest town is Alldays. The reserve is straddled by national parks of both South Africa and Zimbabwe, and forms part of the larger Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park.
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Elephants in the spotlight
Wild Earth
By collaring elephants in the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park and keeping an eye on their movements, researchers gain valuable information to help ensure their survival. René de Klerk discovers
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recent development, the data is also he image of elephants gracefully identifying poaching hotspots. feeding, breaking branches Elephants are clever and avoid and effortlessly toppling trees is a dangerous areas. Henley says their familiar one. But, with poaching on data supports the notion that the African continent extending far elephants move through dangerous beyond rhinos, the spotlight is on areas under the cover of darkness safeguarding these gentle giants. to increase their chances of survival. The team at Elephants Alive has “Where poaching is prevalent, studied these mammals for the elephants travel fast and mainly last 20 years, and gained valuable at night,” explains Henley. In just insight into their lives. With an one night, two collared elephants identification database of nearly ran the gauntlet from the safety 2 000 elephants, 80 of them collared, of Gonarezhou the team is able to National Park in understand social neighbouring bonds, breeding Elephants move Zimbabwe back behaviour, to their home in and long-term through dangerous Pafuri in movements of areas under the cover northern Kruger. elephants in the But apart from Great Limpopo of darkness picking up on Transfrontier Park. poaching hotspots, The Transfrontier Elephants Alive Park includes has also been able to learn more Kruger National Park as well as about other behavioural aspects of the Association of Private Nature elephant bulls. Not only do elephants Reserves bordering the park travel long distances to find suitable (Timbavati, Klaserie, Umbabat, mates during musth, older males Balule and Thornybush) in South teach, lead and discipline the Africa, Gonarezhou National Park in younger bulls. “The more we observe Zimbabwe and Parque Nacional these males in the field, the more de Limpopo in Mozambique. they amaze us with their intelligence, “Our elephant ID studies are the sentience and social interactions,” longest and most consistent for all explains Henley. of Southern Africa,” says Dr Michelle A great deal of work goes into Henley, Elephants Alive CEO. She minimising human wildlife conflict. says their research provides valuable This not only includes situations information to South African National where elephants raid crops, but Parks and private landowners on also where they damage large trees seasonal movements, impact on during times of drought. vegetation and sustainable trophy Visit www.elephantsalive.org to hunting in some private reserves find out more about their work. where hunting takes place. In a more
The facts •3 5 years: The age elephant bulls reach their breeding prime. They are also the main focus of the study. •S ocialising: Just like humans, some elephant bulls are more sociable than others.
Main: A collared elephant, estimated to be around 45 years old. Far right: The giant feet of a tranquillised elephant. Right: Elephants Alive CEO Dr Michelle Henley and her team collar an elephant. Above: Dr Michelle Henley with an elephant collar. Photos: Mike Kendrick
•O ne third is the number of savanna elephants lost in Africa in the last seven years. •T hreats include habitat loss, poaching and conflict with humans. •B ees are known to stop elephants from breaking down large trees. Elephants Alive found only 2% of trees with beehives were destroyed, Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 25
Living World
Kudu rabies spreads in Namibia Concern is mounting over the effects of rabies on Namibia’s kudu population. The disease has been present since the 1970s, but has slowly been spreading from the northern and central regions to southern and eastern Namibia. Although a vaccine is available, large costs are involved to administer it from a helicopter. Sporadic outbreaks have occurred in kudu in the past. All mammals can contract rabies, but to date the biggest effect has been on kudu and eland populations. “Rabies is negatively affecting our kudu genetics,” says Dr Ulf Tubbesing, a wildlife vet in Namibia. This fatal disease is spread through the saliva of rabid animals, and attacks the nervous system and brain. Kudus are particularly susceptible to rabies due to communal grooming and group feeding. The rabies virus is concentrated in saliva and enters the antelope’s body via mouth lesions caused by thorn bushes. Rabies is able to spread quicker in kudu populations because the point of entry for infection, the mouth, is close to the brain. Rabies is spread via bite wounds from a rabid animal. The first symptoms of the disease are unusual animal behaviour, with wild animals becoming ‘tame’. Hind quarter paralysis, drunkenness and bellowing might not necessary present, but are symptoms of rabies. Infected animals can’t swallow and begin to salivate. Ten days later, the animal dies from dehydration. The vaccine is effective, but farmers skip them because kudu are not high value animals. “In all cases the outbreak stopped within 10–14 days of vaccination,” says Tubbesing. A kudu killed by rabies will not infect scavengers as the disease dies with the host. – Georgina Lockwood
New plant species found in Barberton T
he sharp eye and inquisitive not only are the habitats different, nature of an amateur botanist the mature stem segments of the has led to the discovery of a semispecimen are much shorter. In parasitic plant species in the addition, the immature berries of the Songimvelo Nature Reserve in Songimvelo specimens are different. Barberton. After photographing The other species in this group, mistletoe from the genus Viscum Viscum anceps, has shorter stem and collecting samples for the segments and the berries are smooth Mountainlands Nature Reserve and glossy. Herbarium, Delia Oosthuizen realised Once Oosthuizen and Balkwill something about determined the her specimen was plant was not “not quite right”. the same, they Although it immediately We were excited and was not the first realised the time they were importance of the knew there was a collected in the discovery. “We were lot of work ahead to reserve, previous excited and knew collections were there was a lot of verify it identified as work ahead to verify other species. it,” says Oosthuizen. “I had difficulty This included identifying the specimen and looking at numerous photos, more asked Prof Kevin Balkwill from Wits site visits, and many collections. University for assistance,” Delia The reserve falls within the says. “After sending him photos he Barberton Centre of Plant Endemism, decided it was worth a closer look which is an area with a significant and we visited the number of endemic and rare plant forest together.” species, explains Oosthuizen. The This is when they realised the variety of habitats, elevations and differences. The Viscum species with different microclimates between the mountains can cause existing species flattened stems and no leaves found to evolve, she adds. in the reserve was definitely different To date, Viscum songimveloensis from the two recorded in literature. When compared to the Combretum has only been found on a single mistletoe (Viscum combreticola), host plant – the green witch-hazel (Trichocladus grandiflorus) and at two localities in the reserve. Due to its limited numbers, it is classified as vulnerable on the Red List of South African Plants. Southern Africa is home to 20 species of Viscum, with 10 of them found in Mpumalanga. – René de Klerk Page 26 | Safari News | Spring Issue 2018
Below: Portrait of a greater kudu bull near Groot Okevi, Etosha National Park, Namibia. Photo: Hans Hillewaert
Top: The forest environment in which the plants occur. Above: A female Viscum songimveloensis in the Songimvelo Nature Reserve. Left: The newly discovered Viscum songimveloensis female flowers. Photos: Delia Oosthuizen
Living World
The exclusive
residents of Ongoye Forest A visit to KwaZulu-Natal is not complete without a stop at the Ongoye Forest. Situated 150km north of Durban between Mtunzini, Eshowe and Empangeni, this 2 000-hectare coastal scarp forest is home to several special residents. Apart from the green-banded swallowtail butterfly (Papilio nireus lyaeus), the forest is also home to the well-known green barbet, which is found in certain east African forests, but not usually south of Malawi. The Ongoye Forest population is the only place in South Africa where you can tick them off your bucket list. An abundance of fig trees makes the Ongoye Forest the ideal habitat, as green barbets are specialist frugivores requiring a good supply of fig fruit for most of the year. Although they do sometimes feed on other forest tree fruit when fig fruit is scarce, this is not the norm. Unlike other forests in the region, Ongoye is especially rich in fig tree diversity. Nine species of fig occur in the forest and forest margins, the most important of which is the Natal fig (Ficus natalensis) and common wild fig (Ficus burkei). No other forests in Southern Africa have that same diversity or density of fig trees.
The arrival of this lavish coffee table book is most timeous – in the race R1299 against deforestation, it is the much-needed, long-awaited, definitive guide to the trees and shrubs of Mozambique. With approximately 1 800 species listed, and over 400 colour photographs and 1 900 pen and ink drawings, it is nothing short of a Mozambique to complete, labour of love. Taking over it’s a botanist’s delight, and 12 years of travel and 22 the essential reference work research expeditions into for every tree-lover.
Born to be Free (Jacana) Gareth Patterson
The Born Free tale re-told R145 for children through the eyes of Rafiki the lion cub. Rafiki, Furaha and Batian’s future is uncertain after the death of George Adamson, the lion man of Africa. In this moving story the little cubs, guided by the human member of the pride, Gareth, learn to be wild again. Rafiki will inspire the next generation of eco-warriors and lion protectors in this A great read for children inroaring tale of loss, hope between game drives. and newly found freedom.
Right: A green barbet in Ongoye Forest, KwaZulu-Natal. Photo: Hugh Chittenden
Wild Karoo (Struik Nature)
Trees and Shrubs of Mozambique (Print Matters Heritage) John Burrows, Ernest Schmidt, Sandra Burrows, Mervyn Lötter.
The estimated breeding population in the Ongoye Forest is in the region of 200–300 pairs. They excavate nesting holes in decaying tree limbs during the hottest months of the year, November to March. Scaly-throated honeyguides sometimes parasitise the barbet nests, where they lay their similarly white-coloured eggs. While in the forest, look out for the other barbet species too – the white-eared and black-collared barbets are also residents. Your best chance of seeing the green barbet is early in the morning when they are most vocal, and especially in the summer months when they breed. Their unique and distinctive ‘choc, choc, choc’ call is easy to recognise. To reach the Ongoye Forest, take the R102 just west of Mtunzini. After 5km, turn right onto the tar road, which takes you up the surrounding hills and through the western edge of the forest. – Hugh Chittenden
Mitch Reardon
On the bookshelf No bush weekend is complete without a good read. Make sure you include one of these infopacked must-haves.
Fishes of the Okavango Delta & Chobe River, Botswana (Struik Nature)
Field Guide to Fynbos (Struik Nature) John Manning
Mike Bruton, Glenn Merron, Paul Skelton
It’s not just the ichthyologists who are itching to get their hands on this book. Fishes of the Okavango Delta & Chobe River, Botswana is an excellent guide to the breeding habits, survival strategies, habitat and feeding presence of aquatic life in the Chobe River and Okavango Delta. Apart from fishing tips, it also provides
Wild Karoo documents Mitch Reardon’s 4 000km journey of discovery through the R270 Karoo. The Karoo is known for its dramatic beauty and harsh environment inhabited by desert-dwelling plants and a unique bounty of wildlife, including the springbok – all beautifully photographed by the author. Reardon also touches on create wildlife corridors the change coming to the between isolated parks to Karoo, which includes plans re-establish old migration to combine public and routes. private protected land to
R160
solutions on how to utilise and conserve fish stocks in Botswana.
Dr John Manning, world authority on iris and hyacinth families, has compiled the ultimate guide to fynbos. R310 The Cape Floral Kingdom is a biodiversity hotspot and World Heritage site. Manning’s book features over 1 000 species and focuses on the more ‘showy’ Western Cape plants. Each species is explained through detailed information, beautiful imagery, similar species. A mustdistribution maps, traditional have for both botanists and uses and comparisons with amateur gardeners. Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 27
Living in harmony
Living World
Saving Grevy’s zebra in Kenya D
espite a major drought in 2016–2017, Kenya’s Grevy’s zebra population has increased from 2 350 to around 2 812 in the last two years. These are some of the findings from the second Great Grevy’s Rally that took place in January. According to Sheila Funnell, research manager of the Grevy’s Zebra Trust, the survey, which covered a massive 25 000km², has given greater insight into the current population dynamics. “The percentage of foals declined nationally from approximately 11% in 2016 to approximately 5% in 2018,” says Funnell. Foal mortality can be high during droughts as lactating mothers need to drink frequently. Funnell says zebra numbers have not increased in stronghold areas. The
higher estimate comes from more zebras counted and photographed in Isiolo and Marsabit counties. “More teams were assigned to these areas, where zebras are more sparsely distributed.” The Great Grevy’s Rally relies on ordinary citizens and stakeholders such as Kenyan Wildlife Services and community conservancies to do the counts across the zebra’s entire semi-arid range. “Inviting citizens means a greater area can be covered,” says Funnell. “The rally also instils a sense of ‘ownership’ towards Grevy’s zebra conservation among Kenyans.” The population crashed in the 1970s due to hunting. Current threats include habitat degradation, competition for resources with livestock, reduction of water sources and
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human-wildlife conflict. As a result of good rains in 2018, Grevy’s zebra are in a healthy condition, which will likely result in a higher number of foals in 2019. “If the number of foals and juveniles make up 30% of the population, similar to what was seen in 2016, this would indicate a healthy sustainable Grevy’s zebra population going forward,” says Funnell. The Grevy’s Zebra Trust is a Kenya-based non-profit organisation that addresses the need to conserve Grevy’s zebra by managing natural resources with communities. – Georgina Lockwood
Above: Grevy’s zebra is taller than the plains zebra, with narrower stripes, white belly, black dorsal stripe, large rounded ears and a brown muzzle. Photo: Nelson Guda
Human population densities are often the greatest in coastal areas and around wetlands. As a result, many coastal and water birds face significant threats from habitat disturbance. Some species appear to be able to tolerate disturbance, whereas others are more sensitive and are decreasing in numbers. The FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology in partnership with the Nature’s Valley Trust (NVT) has been investigating the influence of human beach-use disturbance on shorebirds in the Garden Route National Park. The research has helped devise practical methods to minimise the impacts of tourism on coastalbreeding shorebirds. White-fronted plovers have been monitored along the coast around Plettenberg Bay for three breeding seasons in succession since 2014. The intention was to evaluate how plover breeding behaviour differed between peaceful, relatively undisturbed sites and busy, heavily used beaches. Overall, their breeding success is low, with only one in 10 nests successfully fledging their chicks.
Incubating plovers respond to someone approaching from up to 50m away and leave their nests when the person comes within 30m. They stay away from the nest until the person has moved at least the same distance past it. This has a severe impact on their breeding success. Trials with dummy eggs show that eggs left unattended can reach a potentially lethal 45°C in less than 15 minutes during summer midday temperatures. The project initiated an intervention and awareness programme during 2016 to help mitigate human disturbance on the plovers. Information boards highlighting conservation concerns and responsible beach use have been installed at beach entrances. Signage is placed around white-fronted plover nests to create awareness of ground-nesting shorebirds and to encourage beach users to avoid active breeding areas. The programme has had positive results. On the two beaches at Nature’s Valley where information boards, nesting area signs, brochures and active public engagement occurred, breeding success almost doubled from 8.6% to 15.2%. However, the increase at Plettenberg Bay’s Lookout Beach was more modest, from 10.6% to 12.7%. It is hoped that strategic beach zoning for dogs off leashes, on a leash, or no dogs allowed, will further increase breeding success rates. – Selena Flores, PhD student, FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology, University of Cape Town
Focus
SLOW DOWN to nature’s rhythm
At first glance this vast landscape does not offer much in the way of things to do, but this makes Anysberg Nature Reserve the perfect place to recharge, as René de Klerk discovered
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arlier this year, I discovered what it really takes to escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. There is no reason to spend large amounts of money when it comes to finding tranquillity. All you have to do is head for the Karoo. At almost 80 000 hectares, the Anysberg Nature Reserve offers a sense of isolation no matter where you are. In these vast expanses people are rare and beautiful scenes are abundant. The reserve offers camping spots, five basic cottages and four wooden houses, with the magnificent Cape Fold Mountains offering the perfect backdrop. And with little cellphone reception, it is easy to switch off completely. In Anysberg everything happens according to nature’s rhythm. On my arrival, a large herd of springbok scattered, but quickly stopped when realising I posed no threat. Later, I passed a gemsbok lazily grazing in the Karoo Biffs Big.pdf 1 vegetation. 18/06/2018 14:35 Although I could not find them, the reserve offers a safe haven for Cape
mountain zebra, and riverine rabbits have been spotted within the reserve borders in the past. The reserve is ideal for families. Children can run around to their heart’s content as there are no large predators. Apart from a hiking trail at Land se Kloof, there are no formal trails and walking is allowed anywhere. There is easily accessible rock art near Tapfontein, which I visited with the reserve’s conservation manager, Marius Brand. The overnight horse trail, which stops over at Tapfontein, passes the site, but visitors are welcome to look for the rock paintings too. Agama Cottage, where I spent two nights, is separated from the other cottages, which is great for even more isolation. Don’t expect luxury. Although rustic, the cottages offer everything you need for a comfortable stay – beds, hot water to wash the Karoo dust from your skin, gas for cooking, a fridge, cutlery, and comfortable living room with fireplace. The outside braai is the
There is no proper signage to Anysberg and the GPS locations on Google Maps are not all reliable. Contact the park for directions from Touws River, Montagu via the Ouberg Pass, Ladismith or Laingsburg. The reserve is just over three hours from Cape Town and can be reached in a sedan, but a high-rise vehicle or 4x4 will make the journey easier.
ideal spot to end the day while pastel shades paint the sky. If you are ready to adapt to the slow motion of nature, pack a few good books, forget about the outside world and lose yourself in Anysberg.
Top: There are many interesting rock formations in the reserve. Right: There are large numbers of special plants hidden in Anysberg. Exploring the reserve on foot is the ideal way to spot them. Photos: René de Klerk
Don’t miss • Rock art paintings created by the San. •W alking, running and cycling everywhere as there is no big game. •H orse riding – one of the activities on offer in the reserve. • Stargazing on clear nights.
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Less Travelled
Raw beauty and sweeping plains
Situated in south-west Kenya, covering an area of 1 510km², the Masai Mara National Reserve is a land of breathtaking vistas, abundant wildlife and endless plains.
The Masai Mara is home to some of Africa’s best year-round game viewing and the most spectacular animal show on earth – the Great Migration. Nadia Coombe explores
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very year, herds of wildebeest, zebra and gazelle numbering hundreds of thousands cover the Great Migration path of over 3 000km in search of lush grasses following rainfall. They thunder over the plains to the riverbanks in a remarkable quest filled with challenges. These animals are followed closely by a number of predators. But the deadliest of obstacles in their path has to be the river crossings. Facing the possibility of being eaten or drowned, the annual migration is undoubtedly the most beautiful and yet the cruellest wildlife spectacle. While the migration often draws criticism for the large numbers of visitors and busy sightings, the Great Migration is not all this magical reserve has to offer. It is the perfect destination for game drives, safari walks, scenic flights and hot air balloon rides. Finding the right advice before you go is important. The correct timing makes it possible to observe animals in peace and tranquillity. Apart from the wildebeest that take part in the migration, look out for lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo. The Masai Mara is also home to popular species like zebra, the Masai giraffe, hyena, eland and gazelle. The migration might not take a specific route. It is steered by natural factors such as annual rainfall. However, the arrival of wildlife in the Masai Mara is guaranteed – providing the best view of the migration as the animals cross the Mara River. The land in the Mara is flat and open, making it really easy to spot game within a 360-degree view.
8-day Amboseli, Mount Kenya & Masai Mara Flying Safari This 8-day tour explores the capital city of Nairobi, the Amboseli National Park, and the Masai Mara National Park. Your adventure begins deep inside the Nairobi National Park. Explore Kenya’s oldest reserve, known for its Black Rhino Sanctuary before continuing to the Amboseli National Park, the best place in Kenya to see elephants at close range. Then you will head off to Ol Pejeta Conservancy, a pristine wildlife area between the Aberdares and the majestic Mount Kenya. Finish off at the Olare Motorogi Conservancy, a pristine and exclusive 33 000-acre wilderness. From R48 345 per person sharing.
10-day Luxury Mara, Serengeti & Manyara Safari This 10-day tour highlights the best of East Africa. Your safari adventure begins in the savannah wilderness of the Masai Mara, and then continues to the Serengeti. Two days are spent at a luxury mobile camp, moving around to anticipate the action of the Great Migration. Next, you head to Lake Manyara National Park, a diverse wilderness area with its Rift Valley soda lake, dense woodlands and steep mountainsides. The park is famous for its tree-climbing lions, elephant herds and flocks of pink flamingos. The last stop is the Ngorongoro Crater. From R98 113 per person sharing.
10-day Authentic Mara, Serengeti & Ngorongoro Safari This 10-day tour offers the ultimate safari experience, including three prime game-viewing reserves – Masai Mara, Serengeti and Ngorongoro – and luxury accommodation. Start off with a three-night stay in the private Mara Naboisho Conservancy, a pristine wilderness that offers spectacular game viewing. Venture to the unspoilt northern plains of the Serengeti in Tanzania, known for extraordinary wilderness encounters and remarkable luxury accommodation. Your journey continues to the magnificent crater highlands of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Set on the edge of the mountain forest hugging the Olmoti volcano to the north of Ngorongoro Crater, The Highlands strikes a perfect balance between a true wilderness experience and a stylish, contemporary escape. From R96 948 per person sharing.
The land in the Mara is flat and open, making it really easy to spot game
Best time to visit For general game viewing there is no real ‘best time to visit’. Many visitors go for the wildebeest migration. The best time to see this spectacle is from July and the end of November. However, the Masai Mara is widely regarded as a year-round safari destination.
Use your cellphone camera or QR scanner 1. Open camera app to scan and follow 2. Point at code the QR link above
3. Click on link
How to book As a destination, a Masai Mara safari never disappoints! Ensure you are in the right place at the right time by speaking to one of the safari experts to help you plan the ultimate bucketlist adventure. Visit www.safari.com/serengetinational-park/tours-and-safaris or email HelpMePlan@safari.com.
Top: Witness the Great Migration while gliding low over the African savannah on a hot air balloon safari. Left: Herds hurtle through waters teeming with enormous Nile crocodiles. Photos: Jane Rix, Todd Grimsley Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 31
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Spotlight
The age of
Plastic Plastic pollution has gained major attention, but despite the controversy, plastic waste remains one of the biggest environmental threats to our planet. By Carina Borralho
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lastic has become a huge problem. Found in various forms within every South African household, the global prediction is that in 2050, there will be more plastic in our oceans than fish. “It’s critical that consumers take cognisance of the pressure everyday waste items place on the waste disposal infrastructure and ultimately the environment as a whole,” says Leon Grobbelaar, president of the Institute of Waste Management of Southern Africa (IWMSA). IWMSA says a plastic bag can take anywhere from 500 to 1 000 years to decompose. The Ocean Conservancy’s 2018 Coastal Cleanup report notes that during the 2017 effort to clean up coastlines,
Research and consumers Miscommunication continues between plastic producers and consumers about the importance of recycling and the impacts of pollution. Krishen says social and cultural barriers continue to prevent people from adapting to modern ideas. “Concepts such as environmentalism, conservation, global warming and climate change are still not recognised or accepted by some. One solution is to empower people to understand the importance of environmental protection and then to encourage them to share this knowledge within their community. It is only through education that people grow and understand. With education, we can break through social barriers and effectively communicate the dangers of pollution.” Recycling also has the potential to create thousands of jobs in South Africa. The PET Company says plastic bottles create income opportunities for informal collectors, who in turn contribute to recycling efforts. “If one person collects 200 bottles for 240 days of the year, it amounts to 1 450kg a year.”
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plastic bags ranked as the fifth most collected item. Four of the top five items picked up included plastics (bags, food wrappers, beverage bottles and caps), most of which can be recycled. It is estimated that nearly 250 000 plastic bottles are dumped every hour. These plastic bottles constitute close to 50% of recyclable waste at landfills. According to BirdLife International, eight million tons of plastic waste enters the oceans each year, equating to about one full truckload of rubbish being dumped into the oceans every minute. For BirdLife, one of the biggest concerns is that seabirds ingest plastic. “I will admit to being reduced to tears more than once watching a wandering albatross chick killed by a plastic toothpick,” says Stephanie Winnard, manager of BirdLife International’s Marine Project. Jaquelene Krishen, education officer at WESSA’s Treasure Beach Environmental Education Centre, says about 88% of the oceans contain plastic or remnants of plastic. “In a recent study, South Africa ranked 11th in a poll of the top 20 countries in the world with mismanaged plastic waste. We are also among four other African countries with a coastal population of around 12 million, contributing to
2% of mismanaged plastic waste in that study,” she says. Krishen, who is completing her thesis on plastic pollution at the University of KwaZulu-Natal, says in 2012 plastic consumption in South Africa was over 1.6 million tonnes. “We are a big contributor to plastic pollution. Our coastal areas, estuarine systems, and the guts of our marine animals, are flooded with microplastics.” Research continues to determine other factors contributing to microplastic accumulation in South Africa. “This information will further clarify the plastic predicament and will enable us to make more informed decisions,” adds Krishen. John Kieser, sustainability manager at Plastics SA, says compared to other African countries, South Africa has more plastic bottle and bottle cap pollution. “Tanzania, Kenya and Angola have more fishing-related material. Some of this netting is very harmful and many gill nets are found discarded. Film (water sachets) is a major problem in Nigeria and Ghana.” Kieser is positive about the size of the recycling industry in South Africa, but says the logistical issues faced by corporates are a huge hindrance on recycling and the use of sustainable packaging.
Do we have enough information? Environmental scientist Dr Tony Ribbink says the main problem is the lack of “real measurable data” to get an accurate picture of “one of the world’s greatest threats”. At the PETCO AGM earlier this year, Ribbink said Port Elizabeth is blazing a trail in the fight against plastic pollution, and if it continues in this vein, it could be the cleanest city in South Africa by 2021. World Environment Day 2018 was themed #BeatPlasticPollution. John Duncan, head of WWF South Africa’s Marine Programme, says, “We have spent centuries extracting and consuming the planet’s resources and then simply discarding what is left over into the ocean or landfills. Not too surprisingly, our natural ecosystems are now reaching the point where they can no longer absorb our waste. We are starting to witness natural feedback cycles in the form of climate change, species extinction and oceans increasingly teeming with more plastic than fish in volume.” Duncan says items such as straws, coffee cup lids, earbuds, individual sweet wrappers, plastic cutlery, stirrers and shopping bags are generally used for less than 20 minutes before they are thrown away. “The next time you are offered one of these items, take a second to think about whether you really need it, or whether there is another way of consuming your coffee or carrying your shopping.”
Top: Dumping sites pose a threat to the environment as well as communities living near them. Above: It is estimated that nearly 250 000 plastic bottles are dumped almost every hour. Left: Among all the debris found on our shores, plastic and fishing nets pose the greatest threat to our marine life. Photos: Supplied
Cranes among the cattle
Wild Earth
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positive conservation story has emerged from a change in farming methods in Karkloof. Twentythree years ago farmers converted to no-till farming and the unintended consequence has been the return of the wattled crane. No-till farming is a method of growing crops without disturbing the soil, and it has been proven to increase crop yield due to reduced soil erosion. Dig a little deeper, Charlie MacGillivray of the Karkloof Conservation Centre explains, and no-till farming increases the microbial life in the soil, providing an abundance of insects for cranes to feed on. Today, productive dairy farms coexist with an array of wildlife that ranges from oribi to the southern bald ibis. The Karkloof Conservancy has been declared by Birdlife as an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA). KwaZulu-Natal is home to all three indigenous species of crane: the1 statuesque wattled crane Lufthansa.pdf 06/09/2018 23:34
Moving north-east of Overberg to the KwaZulu-Natal mist belt, the farmers of Karkloof have made a difference in the fight to save wetland birds. Georgina Lockwood discovers (Grus carunculata), the patriotic blue crane (Anthropoides paradiseus) and the grey crowned crane (Balearica regulorum). Three years after the implementation of no-till farming the wattled crane returned to the Karkloof mist belt. Presently, between 17 and 26 critically endangered wattled cranes are regularly sighted in the Karkloof valley. An estimated
50–70 grey crowned cranes and approximately eight blue crane pairs have been recorded by Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) and the Karkloof Conservation Centre. South Africa’s cranes are dependent on wetlands and grasslands for survival. The working landscape of Karkloof is scattered with wetlands, making for ideal crane
breeding and foraging sites. Resident farmers have become custodians of the birds in cooperation with EWT, for example awareness and consideration is taken when burning to avoid chick mortality.
Above: Reflection of wattled cranes in the water. Photo: Patrick Cahill
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Zoom In
Time to get
snapping
WINNER!
Colin Grenfell’s photo of Addo Elephant National Park’s famous lioness Josie and her offspring will be turned into a painting and auctioned. All funds raised will benefit conservation.
Were you there to capture the moment? The magic? The light and colour? Enjoy our selection of pics from some of our favourite photographers. Here’s what they captured through their lenses. Send us your favourites from your travels and you stand the chance of having your photo turned into a painting by talented artist Graham Kearney.
Feathered beauty: Marli Potgieter captured this southern ground hornbill on the H5/S114 gravel road in the Kruger National Park.
Ikhaya: Johan Mocke snapped this photo in the Mata Mata region of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
Dwarfed by a giant: Samuel Cox captured this photo of the kingfisher dwarfed by an elephant in the Kruger National Park. Page 36 | Safari News | Spring Issue 2018
Suricate family: Ilse Gerlach snapped this photo of a suricate family snuggling up on a safari near Oudtshoorn.
Zoom In
Send us your pics! To enter your photos and stand the chance of having your image turned into a painting by artist Graham Kearney, send your wildlife or landscape photos, along with your name and a description of where your pic was taken, to safari@caxton.co.za. The lily and jacana: Patrick Montocchio captured this African jacana in the Kruger National Park just before sunset.
Windblown lion: Cliff Rosenrode was on the way to Nossob in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park when he spotted this lion next to the road.
Framed desolation: AndrĂŠ Olivier captured a different Graham Kearney 100x275.pdf 1 18/06/2018 15:04 perspective of the dead trees at Deadvlei in Sesriem, Namibia.
Dusty delight: Johan Jooste captured these Cape fur seals and flamingos at Pelican Point in Walvis Bay.
A family drink: Kayla de Jager found this herd of gemsbok enjoying water at the Mokala National Park near Kimberley.
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Heritage
A dash for the Drift The day of the dead moon, 22 January 1879, remains one of the most popular stories in South African history, as Georgina Lockwood discovers
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t is a significant day in South African history. One thousand eight hundred unfortified British soldiers were engulfed by 20 000 Zulu impis in the horns of the buffalo formation at the Battle of Isandlwana. On the same day, at the Battle of Rorke’s Drift, Martini-Henry rifles glowed red – dislocating shoulders, bruising cheeks and breaking collar bones as 20 000 rounds of ammunition shot down 1 000 Zulu warriors. The garrison lost just 39 soldiers to the broad-blade spear, making it one of the greatest British victories. They received 11 Victoria Crosses for
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their efforts. It was the Rattray family, owners of Fugitives’ Drift Lodge, who breathed life into the stories of Rorke’s Drift and Isandlwana, taking visitors on an emotional journey, while standing next to historical landmarks where the battles once raged. How the Rattrays became embedded in this history is a tale of its own. George Buntting, the previous owner of the property, received the original accounts from Shezi, a Zulu who fought in the battle of Isandlwana. George then shared the stories with David Rattray
were not lost on Mother Nature. At as a child, who later narrated these the height of the battle an eclipse accounts to his own sons Andrew, plunged the battlefield into darkness. Douglas and Peter, and to the Only 55 British soldiers survived, world. Guides Bryan Mcube and fleeing on horseback. On both sides, Mphiwa Ntanzi also contributed to “they fought like lions and fell like this melting pot of stories: Ntanzi’s stones”, Mcube told the group. He grandfather and great-grandfather sang the praises of Zulu heroes fought with the Zulus. like Mkhosana The legendary kaMvundlana voice of the late Biyela who David Rattray gave The Battle of Rorke’s restored the impis’ us the preamble courage when the to the Anglo Zulu Drift across the British cannons War tour on audio began to fire. on the way to Buffalo River raged That afternoon Isandlwana. Upon for nearly 12 hours we learnt about arrival, black crows the Battle of circled above the Rorke’s Drift fought ghostly cairns on the same day. It raged for nearly of fallen soldiers that still scar the 12 hours, dramatically lit by the landscape while guide Bryan Mcube, burning mission station. The right knobkerrie in hand, began the story horn of the Zulu formation, which of Isandlwana. had not seen much military action As he painted the scene, you during the Battle of Isandlwana, could imagine the white British crossed into Natal on the other side graves replaced by white army tents of the Buffalo River. They too wanted surrounded by tall stands of grass, to bathe their spears in the blood of sweltering temperatures and the the enemy. gushing water of the Buffalo River. Prince Dabulamanzi kaMpande’s Unbeknown to Queen Victoria, Major right horn, up against 139 soldiers General Chelmsford and the British of the 24th regiment commanded army marched into Zululand looking by garrison leaders Chard and to antagonise King Cetshwayo into Bromhead, would have a battle. The shenanigans of that day
Heritage
The facts • David and Nicky Rattray are regarded as the pioneers of heritage tourism in South Africa. • The lodges on the property: Fugitives’ Drift Lodge, the Guesthouse, and Umzinyathi Farmhouse.
different outcome. Andrew gave us a room-byroom account of the battle in the Rorke’s Drift museum. Parts of the original building still stand today. He described how Private Williams used a bayonet to dig through four mud walls, backed by the “redbearded cook, Hook”. He explained how “spider-like surgeon Reynolds” removed 36 pieces of scapula from Private Hitch’s shoulder without anaesthetic. And how the teaaddicted Hitch was barricaded in the hospital room with the incapacitated, and four pots of tea. The Zulu Kingdom would go on to lose the Anglo-Zulu War in 1896 at the battle of Ulundi. Shaka’s proud nation would be divided. The craft to storytelling is knowing when to pause... so eloquent is his gift of the gab, Andrew Rattray paused. A feeling of melancholy settled on the tour group. Keen to learn more? Fugitives’ Drift Lodge offers historical on-site tours of Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift. Visitors also get insight into the quirky, personal tales of the soldiers who fought in these battles. The Rattray family captivates visitors from near and far, and had the honour of hosting Prince Charles in 1997. Visit www.fugitivesdrift.com to book your tour.
• The topography and views can be enjoyed while hiking or from the pool. Giraffe and other wildlife are seen on the property. • The David Rattray Foundation was set up in 2007 to help improve education in the Rorke’s Drift area through Khula Education. • David, being an entomologist, had a fondness for Harford, who was known to collect beetles in battle. The Harford Library is named after him.
Getting there From Durban, take the N3 highway. After Estcourt, take the R74 towards Colenso/Bergville. It is just over 330km from Durban. From Johannesburg, take the N3 highway towards Durban. Take the R34 towards Vrede/Frankfort, then the N11 and R68. Fugitives’ Drift Lodge is 430km from Johannesburg
Top left: Generations of storytellers: Douglas and Andrew Rattray. Left: Fugitives’ Drift, where the British soldiers fled for their lives in the Battle of Isandlwana. Top: Rorke’s Drift museum. Above: Battlefield tour. Top Right: Zulu War Memorial at the Battle of Isandlwana. Middle left: The tale of two entomologists Middle right: Guide Bryan Mcube conducts the Battle of Isandlwana history tour. Right: Zulu memorial under the canopy of the auspicious buffalo tree. Photos: Christian Sperka Photography Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 39
One sticker card per transaction of R50 or more!
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Available at participating Total Service Stations while stocks last.
Wild Earth
Wildlife-friendly
gardening Emily Taylor explains the importance of bringing urban wildlife to your city garden by using the principles of ecological landscaping.
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time to get an already transformed iving in an environmentally friendly area of land to a point where it way and practising ecological becomes a self-sustaining, landscaping primarily through the functional ecosystem. use of indigenous plants will entice As with humans, plants and all sorts of urban wildlife to your animals have a hierarchy of needs, garden, and provide a functional and at the base of this hierarchy are ecosystem that will contribute to the food, water, cover and space. ecology of the broader area in which To cater to as wide a variety of you live. A string of such properties species as possible, diversify the can go a long way to reducing the types of food items available in your effects of habitat fragmentation by garden. To cover creating pathways all your bases you made up of green should ensure stepping stones Different wildlife there is green between green vegetation, fruit, areas in the city. species require seeds, insects, These pathways different sizes and nuts and nectarbenefit genetic rich flowers. This and species types of habitat will attract many richness in all areas species of birds of the city through and bats, small connecting mammals, insects, reptiles and populations and reducing pressure amphibians (provided they can on isolated sites. get into the property), and other Indigenous animals are far more necessary micro-organisms. It is also likely to inhabit a property if it helpful to ensure food items are contains plants that can provide available at different and appropriate these animals with the best heights – particularly if you are resources. Indigenous gardening may hoping to attract a certain species. not create the archetypal western You may want to use bird feeders in idea of a beautiful garden, but it winter periods when food availability brings with it a wilder, more alive is low. and vibrant environment that can Having a permanent source of ultimately sustain itself. It will require clean water in your garden will make a substantial amount of work and
it irresistible to wildlife, provided it is safe from predators and undisturbed. It is also advisable that water sources are designed in such a way that animals can get in and out of the water easily, as animals often drown in even small bodies of water if the sides are steep or slippery and they cannot get out. Garden wildlife needs sufficient cover from the elements, as well as from each other (and domestic creatures such as dogs, cats and children). Adding items such as rocks can help create shelter for small species. It is advisable not to be too tidy and to let your grass grow a little bit, particularly around the edges of beds and water features – this will provide a perfect habitat for smaller organisms. When landscaping does not allow for natural nesting opportunities, it may be useful to install artificial structures such as bird or bat boxes, although there are no guarantees these will be utilised by desired species. Any artificial houses must be accessible and ensure minimal disturbance by children and predators. Different wildlife species require different sizes and types of habitat. Use of space in ecological landscaping is very important to ensure that animals have a variety of options, including space that is relatively undisturbed by human activity. Following the basic principles
of ecological landscaping will automatically assist you in saving water, turning your garden into a water-wise haven for urban wildlife. – Emily Taylor, coordinator: Urban Conservation and Gauteng Biodiversity Stewardship, Endangered Wildlife Trust
Top: Hovering bumblebee. Bottom: Southern double-collared sunbird. Photos: Marianne Golding, Steve Bailey
Basic principles • Keep the ecological integrity of the property and work with local soil, rocks, indigenous vegetation, topography and water courses. • Remove all alien plants. • Approach pest management holistically to avoid unnecessary use of pesticides. • Select new plant species carefully, based on the climatic conditions of the garden and of varied height. • Keep pets and children away from ‘wildlife zones’ in your garden. • Use organic mulches and fertilisers.
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Advertorial
Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport W
elcome to the Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, also referred to as KMI Airport. Located in South Africa, Mbombela (Nelspruit), the airport is the gateway to the world’s most iconic game reserve, the Kruger National Park, the Blyde River Canyon, ancient caves and many scenic and heritage attractions. Since commencing in October 2002, KMI Airport has opened up the skies over Mbombela to over 3 million passengers, affording new opportunities to the tourism and business industries of the province. This international airport has a 3.1km runway which can accommodate up to a Boeing 747 and Airbus series. The 7350m2 terminal building, constructed as an African theme under thatch, is the largest thatch constructed airport in the world, able to accommodate 600 000 passengers per annum. The unique aesthetics and decor blend in with the surrounding bushveld, which has become a favourite landmark among passengers visiting the beautiful Mpumalanga province. Development is done in a sustainable way, respectful of the local community and the environment. KMI Airport is defined by our exceptional
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people who have a passion for travel, a willingness to go the extra mile, and pride in operating our airport to the highest possible standards. We work together to deliver the highest levels of customer service, and aim to provide all airport users with a fantastic experience. We are continually developing our airport, with the aim to provide more choice, better facilities and greater value for passengers, while always keeping true to what we do best – making your journey convenient, easy and memorable.
Meetings & Conference Facilities The KMIA Conference Centre is stylish, comfortable and conveniently located inside the airport. This is ideal for business or leisure travellers seeking venues for both local and international business meetings. The KMIA Conference Centre consists of three conference venues with a maximum seating capacity of up to 50 delegates. We also have a Lapa facility which can accommodate up to 150
delegates seated, ideal for cocktail functions or business breakfasts.
Fever Tree Bar Get up close and personal with various aircraft, and enjoy the breathtaking views our runway and surrounding area have to offer. You can enjoy a great meal or a quick drink before jetting off. With its variety of locally brewed craft beer and cocktails the Fever Tree Bar comes highly recommended.
Adventure
Dawn explorations in
KRUGER While the chance of spotting herds of elephants or predators on bush walks in Kruger National Park is rare, taking a walk on the wild side promises an exciting adventure, as René de Klerk discovers
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s we jumped out of the vehicle, excited to start our bush walk, one of our guides silenced us. He walked a few steps, listened carefully and returned, then casually mentioned something about hearing “a leopard towards that koppie”, while pointing in the general direction. Excitement welled up inside us, but we were quickly informed we were not heading in the same direction. Going on bush walks is not really about finding big game, although this is not impossible. Heading out on foot is more about the smaller things that are often overlooked. It provides a different perspective on surroundings that are usually seen from the comfort of a vehicle. As soon as we started walking, a herd of blue wildebeest and later impala warned the animal kingdom of our presence. I realised what this meant, but the idea of not seeing anything did not concern me. To walk in the bush here is a privilege on its own, as you are not usually allowed to leave the safety of your car in Kruger. We were accompanied by armed guides Lucky Gumede and Elliot Nkuna, and this certainly had its advantages. We stopped often to share in their knowledge of the bush. We learnt the interesting tales of fungus-growing termites and shared stories about elephants and marula trees. While walking past a tortoise, we learnt that these reptiles hibernate underground during times of drought.
For me, however, the most interesting part of the walk was spotting something strange in a small bush. None of us could guess where the strange foamy structures came from. Our guide Elliot Nkuna explained about the frogs that create these nests. The clumps of foam on the trees contain their eggs and are always made above water. The foam prevents the eggs from drying out and also keeps predators from eating the small tadpoles. When ready, the tadpoles drop into the water below. We continued our walk and soon reached a rocky outcrop where we enjoyed refreshments. Apart from identifying birds, trees and enjoying the last moments before heading back to the vehicle, the guides also shared some of their stories. Rare sightings on walks include cheetah, buffalo, elephant and lion, and even a few kills. While there have been rare occasions where shots had to be fired, there has never been any situation where guests have been injured. As we drove back to the rest camp, Kruger showed us her best side, with a large elephant herd and a pack of wild dogs frolicking next to the road – the perfect end to our adventure.
Plan your adventure Travel: The drive from Johannesburg takes just over five hours, or Airlink flies directly to Skukuza Airport and from there you can rent a vehicle. Remember: Take preventative measures to keep mosquitoes at bay. Stay: Skukuza Rest Camp offers accommodation options for couples and larger groups, and something for every budget. For delicious meals, head to the Cattle Baron Restaurant.
Don’t miss Pamper sessions at the spa situated in the rest camp. Indigenous plants: Skukuza Indigenous Nursery offers a wide range of indigenous plants at great prices.
Main: The group sets off on an early morning walk. Top left: Elliot Nkuna explains how foam nest frogs make nests above water. Bottom: A herd of elephants on the way back to the rest camp.
History galore: Skukuza is full of gems, including the Stevenson-Hamilton Museum, the Little Heroes Acre where working dogs are remembered, and many cultural heritage sites.
Kruger National Park is the size of Wales and stretches over both the Mpumalanga and Limpopo provinces of South Africa. The nearest town to Skukuza – the busiest rest camp in the park – is Hazyview.
Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 43
Focus Focus
Magnificent
Magaliesberg T
Don’t miss
he Magaliesberg area is a uniquely South African natural treasure. Stretching between Gauteng and the North West province, it starts about an hour outside Johannesburg, and extends all the way to Pilanesberg and Rustenburg. Its rich biodiversity offers a habitat for over 130 tree species, 90 mammal species, 80 reptile and amphibian species, and over 450 different birds (almost half of the avian species found in South Africa). It’s a favourite country escape for city dwellers, and offers a choice of woodland, mountain, savannah and bushveld terrain – making it a popular destination for mountain bikers, hikers and rock climbers. The ravines and waterfalls are equally attractive for birders and nature lovers, while the overall scenic beauty makes Magaliesberg a top pick as a wedding destination. The highest point of the Magaliesberg is 1 852m, and it is nearly 100 times older than Mount Everest. The formation of the on the British, who in turn built Magaliesberg region dates back over blockhouses on top of the mountains two billion years, making this area to restrict Boer movement. Some of about half as old as our planet. these ruins can still be seen in the Mrs Ples was discovered here area. Over 13 battles were fought in – the most complete skull of an the Magaliesberg, Australopithecus but after the war, africanus found in farming of tobacco The Magaliesberg Africa, now located and citrus resumed at the Cradle of in the area. mountain range is Humankind World Today, the nearly 100 times Heritage Site. Magaliesberg The Magaliesberg is mainly a older than Mount area has played a collection of Everest major role in the private and public country’s diverse reserves used cultural history; the for recreational area was named after Chief Mogale. purposes, with the Magalies It holds cultural significance Biosphere Reserve being one of the for Sotho, Zulu, Voortrekker and main attractions for nature lovers and British heritage, and served as a one of South Africa’s most prolific battleground during the Second environmental gems. Anglo-Boer War. The Boers used the Unesco declared it a biosphere mountains to launch secret attacks reserve on 9 June 2015. It has a
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There’s something for everyone in the Magaliesberg area, and it’s just a short drive from the bustling cities of Gauteng. Carina Borralho takes a look
Don’t miss • Although the Magaliesberg area has become popular, many of the roads are untarred, so do your research before heading out, or play it safe and take an off-road vehicle. • The cableway at Hartbeespoort Dam is a firm favourite for locals and tourists.
58 000-hectare core protection area, serving as a breeding place for the endangered Cape Vulture. It’s worth a trip to the Vulture Rehabilitation Centre in Hartbeespoort to see these magnificent birds. In addition to the main attractions mentioned, the Magaliesberg is home to a number of secret spots, including lookout points and eateries. Plan a trip and explore to your heart’s content.
Main: With its stunning views, Magaliesberg has become a popular escape for city dwellers. Above: Hike one of the trails in the area – there’s something for every fitness level. Above right: The Magaliesberg Biosphere Reserve stretches across 120km of pristine escarpment, making it a unique habitat for flora and fauna. Photos: Supplied
• On weekends it can get busy, so go early. Take a hike in Rustig – choose between a 3km, 5km, or 13km trail. The area surrounding this farmhouse has magnificent scenery and offers a true taste of the Magaliesberg. Stay overnight – there’s a variety of accommodation options to choose from. The gardens and views make it a wedding-venue favourite too. • For farm-style accommodation, try the eco-friendly Thirsty Falls Guest Farm where the mountains serve as your backdrop. The absence of city lights is perfect for stargazing. • For the more adventurous, Bill Harrop’s Original Balloon Safaris allow you to float over some of the best parts of the Magaliesberg. • The Elephant Sanctuary at Hartbeespoort offers the opportunity to get up close to these majestic creatures.
Dig in
Food
Your guide to eating in the great outdoors Ditch the plastic BRITA’s fill&serve with its MicroDisk filter technology and eye-catching design makes this carafe a must for your office and home. It reduces the taste and odour of chlorine and other impurities to provide water that’s fresher, purer and more enjoyable. Priced from R500 at @home, Takalot.com and Yuppiechef.com or visit www.brita.co.za.
A culinary adventure Tchad: A gastronomic safari by Jamie Sparks is more than just a cookbook. It takes you on an evocative journey into the heart of Africa, its people, flavours and incredible wildlife. Sparks shares her experiences in the canvas kitchen at Camp Nomade in Chad’s Zakouma National Park. Visit www. cookingforconservation.com to pre-order your copy. Proceeds will go to African Parks to assist with conservation efforts.
Campsite cooking with Lesego Semenya Earlier this year, Chef Lesego Semenya, a former process engineer from Soweto also known as LesDaChef, explored the beauty of South Africa. He visited a number of ATKV resorts to show guests how to turn ordinary campfire dishes into something extraordinary. Safari News caught up with him to find out more. What inspired the campfire recipes? People think cooking on an open outdoor fire means cooking the usual braai and potjie meals. I chose to share campfire recipes to give people an idea of what is possible. Why are these recipes a winner? They are unique, they're easy to Impress your guests with Lesego Semenya’s stuffed fillet Ingredients • 80g marinated mushrooms • 40g pine nuts
Our choice: Secco Drink Infusions
• 120g blue cheese
Adding colourful ingredients and botanicals to your drinks, especially gin and tonic, is a growing trend. Secco Drink Infusions offer a blend of dried fruit and spices in sachet form, freeze dried to preserve the taste and structure of the fruit. Add a sachet to any drink. Flavours include ginger lime, raspberry rose hibiscus, pepper berry and spiced pomegranate. Available from various liquor stores, select TOPS at SPAR stores, Liquor City and online at Yuppiechef.com, Takealot. com and Loot.co.za. R110 for eight sachets. Weber 100x275_final.pdf 1 04/09/2018
• 30g peppadews
• 120g cream cheese • 5g fresh rosemary • 1.5kg beef fillet • 1kg back bacon • 20ml honey • 50ml balsamic vinegar • 50ml olive oil
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Method 1 Chop the mushrooms. 2 Roast the pine nuts in a pan on the open fire until golden brown. Add mushrooms to pine nuts. 3 Add the blue cheese, cream cheese, some of the rosemary and chopped peppadews to the pine nuts and mushroom. Mix well. 4 Grill your fillet until it is brown on the
make, and you can get other people involved and make it a fun experience. Most important things to remember? If you understand the basics and when to use the fire at various temperatures (for example, making sauces needs a very hot flame and sealing steaks needs a medium flame) you can easily cook anything on a campsite fire. Do you need a cooking degree? If you follow my instructions, have the correct tools and utensils ready, and don't get tempted to walk away from the fire, definitely not. A novice can do all of these dishes. outside. Remove and rest for 15 minutes. 5 Make a deep incision lengthways in the fillet. Open the fillet up and add pan mixture into fillet. 6 Lay the bacon strips on a chopping board with the edges of the bacon overlapping each other. 7 Drizzle the bacon with the honey and balsamic vinegar. Add rosemary. 8 Lay the fillet on top of the bacon. 9 Wrap the bacon around the fillet. 10 Place the fillet on a medium heat fire and grill until the bacon is crispy on the outside. 11 Take off the fire and enjoy!
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Wild Earth
MAPUTO where luxury meets conservation
Located on a pristine stretch of beach within the Maputo Special Reserve is a barefoot luxury lodge with community and conservation deeply embedded within its DNA. Tessa Buhrmann gets to the heart of the reserve.
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eyond the sand dunes in an untouched wilderness in Mozambique is a space where travellers can view elephants one moment and humpback whales the next. Add to this the privilege of seeing turtles heaving up the beach to lay their eggs during the summer months, and kilometres of untouched beach fringed with coastal forest, lakes, wetlands, forests and grasslands. This nirvana is Maputo Special Reserve (MSR), where low-impact seaside and bush destination Anvil Bay Chemucane is located. Anvil Bay’s deep connection with both the land and her people is not surprising as Paul Bell, one of the Anvil Bay’s trustees, always dreamt of establishing a community-run beach camp on the exact spot in Mozambique where he had camped with his family for more than 50 years. Bell’s dream was realised when the Mozambique government granted the Chemucane community an ecotourism concession in the MSR in 2011. A joint venture was formed between the Chemucane
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community and the Bell Foundation. With funding from the World Bank and the Bell and Ford Foundations, construction of Anvil Bay camp began. “The Anvil Bay Chemucane tourism development provides opportunities for the communities involved while supporting conservation efforts in the park,” says
Bell. “With the majority of staff being members of the local community, and having worked through the building phase and made the transition to hospitality, their strong sense of camaraderie and commitment to the business is amazing.” A founding commitment of the
project, Bell explains, is to develop local staff to manage the lodge in the future. A number of rising stars have been nurtured as part of the programme, including Jonito Timbane, Anvil Bay trainee manager. Timbane, a member of the local community, started work as a teenage camp hand eight years ago, before construction of the lodge had started. “In the construction phase he quickly learnt the details of the plumbing and electrical systems and eventually led the installation of these systems,” says Bell. Today, Timbane oversees the maintenance team for the lodge as one of his many duties, while balancing a mentorship programme that is developing his abilities in operations management, among other projects. The concession has created many benefits for the local community, from industry growth through the purchase of local materials and produce to hospitality training for locals as well as employment. The community also benefits from their share of the profits, while concession fees support conservation
Wild Earth
Getting there The deep sandy roads and spectacular scenery of the MSR make getting to Anvil Bay Chemucane part of the adventure. Driving time from the Kosi Bay border post between South Africa and Mozambique is around two and a half hours via the Gala Gate. From Maputo, travel time is between three and four hours via the Futi Gate. A 4×4 vehicle is essential and entry to the Maputo Special Reserve is before 5pm in summer or 4pm in winter. Visit www.anvilbay.com or phone +258 84 247 6322 / +27 82 564 1664 for more information.
efforts in the reserve. This strikes an important balance between community and conservation. The reserve itself was established in the 1930s to protect southern Africa’s last remaining coastal elephant population, which roamed freely between here and Maputaland in northern KwaZulu-Natal (KZN). Today, the MSR forms part of a wildlife area extending through three countries – Mozambique, South Africa and Swaziland – thanks to intervention by The Parks Shop_100x275_final.pdf
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Peace Parks and the creation of the Lubombo Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA). “As part of developing the Lubombo TFCA, the governments of Mozambique and South Africa began a translocation programme to MSR in 2010,” says Dr Bartolomeu Soto, director general of Mozambique’s National Agency for Conservation Areas. While challenges of civil war set populations back in previous years, they are now being re-established in the area. “The translocations re-introduce species that were historically found in the area, thereby enabling the fast recovery and subsequent increase of the reserve’s wildlife populations.” Today, the reserve hosts an abundance of species, including hippo, reedbuck, elephant, crocodile, red duiker, blue wildebeest and zebra. Populations of giraffe, nyala, kudu, bushbuck and waterbuck are 05/09/2018
growing. With its lakes, wetlands, mangrove swamps, sand dunes and coastal dune forests, as well as savanna grasslands, coastal forests, rocky shores and beaches, the MSR supports an exceptionally high number of endemic species of fauna and flora. The reserve is one of Southern Africa’s great success stories, celebrating the relationship between community and biodiversity, with conservation at its core.
Main picture: The reserve was originally established to protect elephant populations. Left: Community is at the heart of this reserve. Above right: An aerial view of Anvil Bay. The pristine beaches form part of the Partial Marine Reserve. Above left The interiors of Anvil Bay’s casinhas are luxurious but simple. Photos: Anvil Bay and Jacques Marais
The Maputo Special Reserve is located in southern Mozambique, inland from the Ponta do Ouro Partial Marine Reserve, and is a spectacular 104 000 hectares of incredible biodiversity found across nine distinct biospheres.
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Kids’ Corner Did you know? An African penguin’s black and white plumage is often referred to as a tuxedo.
Can you name this landmark? If lots of rain falls in winter, spring is a dashing display of colourful daisies in this part of the world. Where is it?
Attention young bush lovers and adventurers! Are you a nature buff? Grab your crayons and pens and you’ll soon be on your way to becoming a conservation pro!
Wild scramble How good is your geography? Can you find the hidden African countries using the clues below?
Conservation dates to celebrate
Tell your teacher about these fun days taking place during the next four months…
tepgy: Pharaohs and pyramids!
World Rhino Day – 22 September World Tourism Day – 27 September World Habitat Day – 2 October World Animal Day – 4 October African Penguin Awareness Day – 13 October
home to the Maasai people and the Great Rift Valley.
eynka: The Great Migration takes place here and it is selchyles: Africa’s smallest country and a popular honeymoon destination. roooccm: Spices, souks, deserts and camels are found within its borders.
CO MELOU IN R
ardwna: A popular place to see mountain gorillas.
Find the Word! A word find of a feathery nature.
BUSHSHRIKER LOVEBIRD OSTRICH PELICAN FLAMINGO PENGUIN SKIMMER SPOONBILL SUNBIRD BUSTARD A B G R F A A L O V E B I R D B R O D A V RMU J Z P NQ Y P O K T Z M D V R M H B P DM O H D QD Z D M P O V D A D M V R D
Answers: Picture – Namaqualand, Knysna • Scramble: Egypt, Kenya, Seychelles, Morocco and Rwanda
X V C S C M C Y X Q C V O S T R I C H C V E KQ E X S E R M Y T E E X O T Y Q X E S L FM N Z F H F X O F N F R R S F M R Z U I G V X Y G S R G MN G G Y V U Q G R T N C S H V Q Z XH I S Y U H R K B T H Y K B A Z I X I O Q I V K I
I C I M I O X O I I
N J T Q J V MO N J E N V S N J M C Z J R K R F L A M I N G O K R K R Z X L M K V D L YM Q L O RM L V L R S Y X G Y L R L O RMO Z V K XM Q K M S K I M M E R M X M N S P O O N B I L L N R N Q Z N X R N Z Z
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HOW MANY ZEBRA SPECIES ARE THERE? (clue on pages 8 & 9)
Did you k now? The ze
bra’s s tripes diseas deter e-carr ying fl The clo ies. ser the stripes are to each o ther th less flie e s land on the ze bra.
Wild Earth
MAJESTIC MARTIALS take a dive
Recent studies have found that South Africa’s martial eagle population has spiralled by 60% globally in the last 20 years. Andy Wassung spoke to the experts…
F
or many nature lovers, Africa’s largest bird of prey needs little introduction. The majestic martial eagle (Polemaetus bellicosus), weighing up to 5.2kg with an enormous wingspan of over two metres, can typically be found perched atop a leadwood tree or, just as typically, soaring in search of its next victim. Research, however, paints a far less typical picture of this apex predator, with the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) uplisting the species to Vulnerable in 2017. “The reality for these birds is quite concerning, particularly in the Kruger National Park where there has been a 54% population decline in the last 20 years,” says John Davies, project coordinator for Raptor Conservation and Research at the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT). According to Davies, one of the causes for concern is the fact that birds are particularly susceptible to threats like pollution and habitat loss, among others. “With so little still truly understood about this species, there is a definite need to better understand the drivers behind these declines.” Davies recently joined the Martial Eagle Conservation Project in the Kruger, where the team completed a two-week survey across the park, during which they checked more than 20 nests and found three more. Martial Eagle Conservation Project manager, Dr Megan Murgatroyd explains, “The main aim of the trip was to install nest cameras to gain insights into the causes of breeding failure. To do this we were looking for nests that looked likely to be active this year, in trees strong enough to climb safely – usually leadwoods. We found seven nests that were suitable for our cameras.”
The team has also been using GPS technology to better understand the movements of their increasingly elusive subjects. “GPS tracking has given us insights into nest locations, which are often difficult to locate in the bush, and it has helped us to understand habitat preferences too,” says Murgatroyd. Finding an active martial eagle nest is just one part of the challenge, while setting up a nest camera is another. “The installation involves us setting up a climbing line adjacent to the nest and rigging a camera trap with an additional external battery pack hidden away. This
allows cameras to run for several months without us having to interfere, allowing the birds to breed undisturbed while we collect data,” explains Davies. Some of the additional data they hope to access through the nest cameras include incubation and nestling periods, prey preferences as well as the amount they eat. The Martial Eagle Conservation Project is a collaboration between the FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology, the Endangered Wildlife Trust and South African National Parks, supported by ABAX and the Ford Wildlife Foundation.
Do you share a love of this regal raptor? If you’re lucky enough to see one patrolling the Kruger skies and – even better – have a picture of a ringed or tagged one, get in touch with the team at martialeaglesightings@gmail.com. Follow Martial Eagle Conservation – Kruger National Park on Facebook for more information and updates from the field.
Main: An adult martial eagle grips a dwarf mongoose. Left: The Martial Eagle Conservation team checks a nest with a SANParks guide. Below: A lilac-breasted roller shows its disapproval of an adult martial eagle. Photos: Gillian Soames, Megan Murgatroyd and René van der Schyff
The facts •5 .2kg: The martial eagle is Africa’s largest bird of prey, weighing up to 5.2kg with a wingspan of up to 2.4m. • 1 egg: Breeding typically happens biennially, yielding a single egg. •8 months: Juveniles depend on their parents for food for as long as eight months. •6 km: Their eagle-eye vision allows them to see prey up to 6km away. •6 0%: The countrywide decline in martial eagle numbers over the last 20 years. Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 49
Hotspots
GEMS
worth travelling for
Ultimate luxury in Zimbabwe Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, Zimbabwe Singita Pamushana offers visitors the unique combination of absolutely undisturbed wilderness and unsurpassed luxury. This picturesque lodge nestles in a mopane forest on a hill overlooking the Malilangwe Dam, on a pristine reserve that hosts the Big Five. With only six suites and a villa, it is peaceful and exclusive. The lodge boasts the fine dining and first-class service that has become synonymous with the Singita brand, accompanied by a full spa, private candlelit dinners, wine cellar, lounge and top game rangers.
Good to know: The family villa at Singita Pamushana is the perfect set-up for big groups or families looking for that bucket-list holiday. Accommodating up to 10 guests, the villa features en-suite bathrooms, indoor and outdoor showers, a fully equipped kitchen and on-site staff to cater to your every need. Cost: For the standard or two-bedroom family suite, expect to pay R19 226 per person sharing for the remainder of 2018, and R20 916 per person sharing in 2019. Book: www.safari.com/singita-pamushana-lodge
A night on the floodplains Lakeview Tented Camp, Camdeboo National Park
With the Nqweba Dam as a central focus point, breathtaking views and plenty of game viewing opportunities, the tented units are perfect for visitors seeking a break from city life. There are only four tents available, ensuring an intimate, quiet experience. Each tent is furnished with two single beds, a small bar fridge and kettle, but the communal kitchen is well equipped for a comfortable stay. The communal ablutions offer canvas showers, perfect for the warmer spring weather. The Valley of Desolation is one of the main attractions – only a short drive away, it’s the perfect spot to experience the geology of the park.
At home in the forest Grootvadersbosch cabins, Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve Spend a few nights in one of the most significant indigenous forests left in the south-western Cape. Some of the units are situated right next to the forest, while others are built to enjoy spectacular views of the distant hills. The units are tastefully decorated, and ideal for groups looking for a relaxing break. After a day of hiking, bird watching or cycling, you can unwind with an ice-cold drink next to the braai. The units include a fully equipped kitchen and gas stove, but the braai area is an entertainer’s dream. During cooler nights, canvas encloses the area, and in the warmer weather it can be opened up to enjoy the evening breeze.
Good to know: Outdoor enthusiasts will love the reserve’s many hiking and cycling trails. Cost: Between R1 100 and R1 750 for up to four people, excluding conservation fees of R40 for adults and R20 for children. Book: www.capenature.org
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Good to know: The park surrounds the town of Graaff-Reinet. Guests staying inside the park can access restaurants in town, but the rest camp gates are closed from 22:00– 07:00 daily. Cost: Between R980 and R1 275 per night for the unit, sleeping up to four people. Excludes conservation fee of R40 for adults and R20 for children. Book: www.sanparks.org
Room with a view Oranjekom Gorge Cottage, Augrabies Falls National Park
When visiting the Oranjekom Viewpoint, it is often difficult to drag yourself away. With the Orange River snaking through the gorge below, the sound of rapids echoing from beneath and the call of an African fish eagle in the distance, it offers the perfect surrounds. Oranjekom Gorge Cottage is located just below the viewpoint and presents the perfect opportunity to enjoy the scenery a little longer. Glass sliding doors offer unparalleled views into the gorge. The cottage is furnished with a queen-size bed, fully equipped kitchen with gas stove, and a comfortable living area. Ablution facilities are a short walk from the main unit.
Good to know: Temperatures in the rocky surroundings can be very high, so be prepared. It is about 30 minutes from the main rest camp, but driving is not allowed after 19:00. All provisions need to be taken with you. Cost: From R1 731 for two, excluding daily conservation fee. Book: www.sanparks.org
Hotspots Sleep eye level with the trees nThambo Tree Camp, Klaserie Private Game Reserve This eco-friendly lodge is a hub of wildlife activity – elephants drink from the pool and wild dogs have been witnessed making a kill in the camp. The camp is small and intimate, and can sleep 10 people in five wooden chalets on stilts. The menu is inspired by traditional South African recipes like milk tart, bobotie, pap and braais. Staff members are warm and friendly – we arrived as guests and left as friends.
Good to know: The camp is not fenced so guests are escorted to their rooms at night. Children under the age of 12 are not permitted. Preventative malaria medication is recommended. Cost: R3 500 per person per night includes accommodation, all meals, game drives, bush walks and warm beverages. R3 995 per person per night includes local drinks and certain alcoholic beverages. Price excludes conservation and gate entrance fees. Book: www.nthambo.com
Panoramic views and plunge pools Makweti Safari Lodge, Welgevonden Game Reserve
Just a three-hour drive from OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, towering cloudscapes and gorgeous mountainous terrain awaits. Makweti Safari Lodge is located in the malaria-free Waterberg Biosphere Reserve. The rooms are chic and tastefully decorated, drawing inspiration from the zebra. Mealtimes are a chatty communal affair, until the food arrives. The silence is a testament to the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs cuisine. Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is the global hallmark of brilliance in cuisine and fine dining. Game drives take place twice daily. Good to know: Welgevonden positions itself as a proactive and forward-thinking reserve, so ask about the interesting conservation projects. Guests are collected from the gate. No self-driving is allowed.
Cost: Prices vary depending on duration of the stay and room selection. From R6 612 per person sharing, including meals and game drives. Book: www.makweti.com
Birds and flowers Rocherpan Nature Reserve, Western Cape A birding and west coast flower hotspot, Rocherpan Nature Reserve is an easy-access photographer’s paradise consisting of multiple bird hides. No 4x4s are required. Gulls visit the beautiful secluded beaches, and the pan – created in the 1830s – is an important birding hotspot and home to the Cape shoveller, black oystercatcher and the critically endangered Cape horned pondweed. Enjoy the meandering trails among the sandveld fynbos. Rocherpan is an idyllic weekend spot graced by stunning sunsets.
Blissful isolated beaches Gugulesizwe Research Camp, KwaMpukane
Good to know: Rocherpan has eight eco-cabins that utilise a waterless dry flush toilet system. There are units for couples and groups of four. Western Cape Water restrictions apply to guests and due to the poor rains the pan was not full during our visit in August – it was still well worth a visit. Guests can drive or walk to the beach, but swimming is not encouraged due to the riptide. Price: From R850 per night, self-catering. Book: www.capenature.co.za
Gugulesizwe Research Camp is situated 4km from the Indian Ocean, hidden among wild date palms and flame lilies. The camp has a homely rustic charm and offers an easy-going beach and dive holiday destination. The lounge deck is conducive to reading and watching the Nguni cows stroll past. Low tide at Lala Nek is not to be missed – the snorkelling is sublime! Birders flock to the area to glimpse the rosy-throated longclaw, and loggerhead and leatherback sea turtles can be seen laying their eggs from November to February. Humpback whale season is from July to September
Good to know: The camp has a well-stocked open-plan kitchen and dining area, and offers both self-catering and catered options. The catered option needs to be booked well in advance. The menu includes three tasty vegcentric meals a day, but can include meat on request. The camp sleeps eight people sharing in four tented units with breathtaking ocean views. It is only accessible by 4x4 vehicles, but transfers can be arranged. Cost: Exclusive use rate per night is R8 000 (low season) and R10 000 (high season). Add R300 per person for catering. Transfer fees, activity costs and park fees are excluded. Book: www.maputalandtravel.co.za Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 51
Guide SEPTEMBER September 10–14: SA National Parks Week Enter your favourite national parks free of charge. Contact your nearest park to confirm whether they are included in the programme. Enquiries: www.sanparks.org
Save these
October 20, November 17 and December 8: Wine Walk to Warwick This monthly 6km fun walk from Delvera to Warwick is an opportunity to enjoy the Stellenbosch outdoors and wine tasting. The cost is R250 per person and kids under 18 walk for R150. Fees include food, tasting of four wines (or juice for kids), coffee and a permit. Bring good walking shoes, backpack with water, hat, snack (if you like), jacket and of course water bottle. Enquiries: www.dirtopia.co.za or info@ dirtopia.co.za
DATES *Diary events are subject to change
NOVEMBER
September 18–22: North West Parks Mahala Week Get free entry at any of the parks managed by the North West Parks Board, with the exception of Madikwe Game Reserve. Activities and accommodation are not included. Enquiries: Valerie Melk on +27 14 555 1600 or Tumi Sefemo on +27 18 397 1554 September 23: Gabriëlskloof Estate’s Overberg Braai Celebrate South Africa’s heritage on Sunday 23 September with chef Frans Groenewald, who will serve up delicious traditional delicacies with a modern spin. The estate is 80 minutes from Cape Town outside Botrivier. Tickets sell for R375 per person. Enquiries: Call +27 28 284 9856 or email restaurant@gabrielskloof.co.za
September 22: Madikwe Rhino Awareness Walk Join Friends of Madikwe at the Madikwe Sports Ground for a rhino awareness walk. Enquiries: +27 14 555 1600 September 17–24: CapeNature Access Week Did you know that for a week you can enter many of CapeNature’s reserves at no cost? Make a point of exploring your natural heritage if you are in the Cape area. Enquiries: info@capenature.co.za or visit capenature.co.za
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Wine Walk to Warwick
OCTOBER October 9: Golf Day at the Royal Johannesburg and Kensington, East course The SANParks Honorary Rangers Johannesburg Region invites you to a golf day in aid of counter-poaching initiatives. Apart from great golf, the course is known for its wildlife, including a breeding pair of longcrested eagles, African harrier hawks and kingfishers. Cost: R6 500 per 4 ball. Enquiries: Grant on +27 83 450 1163 or grantj@turnberry.co.za
October 7–12: Addo Elephant Cycle Charge Do you have a passion for long-distance cycling? This 200km ride from Darlington Dam via the Bedrogfontein Mountain Pass to the Nyathi Section of Addo, is five days and five nights of trail blazing through Big Five Country on Jeep and Single Track Routes, with spectacular scenery and amazing sightings guaranteed. The cost of R15 000 per person includes all meals, tented accommodation and transport from Addo to Darlington. All funds go towards projects in the Addo Elephant National Park. Enquiries: Clive Gibson +27 84 200 4083 or cagibson@global.co.za or Rob Henderson on +27 83 407 4899 or henwoodglass@iafrica.com October 11–13: Groot Plaasproe Do you yearn for the farm life and delicious farm food? The Groot Plaasproe on Sandringham outside Stellenbosch is where lovers of traditional delicacies can enjoy a variety of food and wine, plus entertainment. Kids can watch sheepdogs at work, learn how wool is spun and ride ponies. Tickets are R100 for adults and R30 for scholars. Enquiries: www.diegrootplaasproe. co.za or +27 21 975 4440
November 2–4: Marakele Birding Weekend Enjoy the best of the Waterberg’s birding when you join the SANParks Honorary Rangers Pretoria Region for a birding weekend at Bontle Camp in Marakele National Park. The park is home to one of the largest Cape vulture colonies. The weekend will cost you R1 875 per person including camping, brunch, dinner and morning and sunset drives. Enquiries: Nicky Ras on +27 83 229 1968 or clscreen@mweb.co.za
November 15–20: Barberspan Bird Sanctuary Spring Water Bird Count Join the North West Parks conservation team to take stock of all the birds that occur in the reserve. Enquiries: Andrew or Sampie on +27 78 921 1916 or +27 82 443 9777
DON’T MISS: 2019 Birding Weekends between January 24 and February 24 SANParks Honorary Rangers West Rand Region is proud to invite you to its 2019 annual Kruger National Park Birding Weekends. Book now, boost your birding skills and assist with vital conservation work. Enjoy dawn and evening drives, guided by experienced birding experts. All proceeds go towards conservation projects. Enquiries +27 11 476 3057 or westrandbirders@gmail.com
A Day in the Life
New underwater
DISCOVERIES Gavin Maneveldt, senior researcher and professor of marine biology in the Department of Biodiversity and Conservation Biology at the University of the Western Cape, is a principal investigator interested in coralline red algae. Gavin shares his story‌
E
ncrusting coralline red algae, also known as calcified seaweed, are widespread in oceans globally. Despite this, they remain a poorly understood group of marine organisms. My students and I are among a handful of international researchers capable of working on these seaweeds. They can’t be collected without a hammer and chisel, and also require special laboratory techniques to dissolve the calcium carbonate structure for analysis. Until recently, our descriptions were based on the examination of morphological and anatomical features alone. The implementation of DNA sequencing has opened up a whole new world to us. Using this new approach we learnt that many widespread species are
different species passing under the same name. We have therefore underestimated the coralline algal diversity across the globe. South Africa’s coralline diversity is substantially greater than that currently recognised and far more unique than initially thought; there are large numbers of cryptic species. Our research revealed that our coastline is diverse and coralline algae are more abundant here than in other coastal regions of comparable length. Previously, we reported one in four species only occurred along the South African coastline, and nearly one in three species were endemic to Southern Africa. But this is changing. Nearly three years ago, utilising DNA sequence data, we documented a new species (Spongites agulhensis)
that only occurs in the Cape Agulhas region. In March this year, along with a small group of scientists from France, Italy, New Caledonia and Taiwan, we published a series of new, higher-level names to accommodate specimens from the Northeast Pacific, South Africa and Taiwan. We renamed the species Chamberlainium agulhense. This species is currently one of only three species globally to have been transferred to the new set of names, and the first of many South African species that will have to be renamed. The incorporation of DNA sequencing into our research is increasingly showing us that a high degree of cryptic diversity exists in coralline algae. We have speculated the high degree of morphological and anatomical similarity among
several species to be due to a number of factors. This could be because of convergent evolution where organisms not closely related independently evolve similar traits due to similar environments. Alternatively, it could be due to the formation of new, distinct species due to evolution that is yet to reflect as morphological and anatomical change. Whatever the case may be, these are exciting times for new discoveries that are affording us many opportunities for expanded collaboration and for documenting our little understood biodiversity.
Above: Gavin diving off the coast of Fernando de Noronha with former PhD student, Dr Ricardo da Gama Bahia. Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 53
Wild Earth
IN PICTURES...
MAKING A
DIFFERENCE C
onservation, and counterpoaching receives many donations and sponsorships, and public concern that the funds don’t always go where intended, is not totally unfounded. There are, for example, a huge number of campaigns to save the rhino alone. Flying for Freedom South Africa is a non-profit company that focuses capital expenditure on top-ofthe-range technologies to detect poachers in the field while its operating budget goes towards air operations to apprehend or deter poachers. Donations can range from R10 for a litre of helicopter fuel to funding a patrol dog or its meals. Funds are also required for larger items such as a thermal radar detection system for R10 million or a helicopter with night vision for R50 million. In 2017, public funding contributed towards anti-poaching efforts all over Africa, and in particular towards the South African Rhino problem. Focused operations resulted in an 80% apprehension rate. Around
1 000 hours were flown on rhino missions alone, resulting in the discovery of 40 carcasses, the saving of two orphaned calves, and lifesaving veterinary attention for five wounded rhino. Contributors can select what they want to fund, and will receive feedback. Those who make substantial donations can also visit specific counter-poaching programmes to observe the roll-out and success of their contribution. To find out more email scout. of.africa@gmail.com or to donate visit fffsa.org.za.
Head to Lenong Viewpoint in Marakele National Park near Thabazimbi. Apart from spectacular scenery, this spot will get you closer to one of the largest Cape vulture breeding colonies in the world. With patience, you might see many of them soaring in the sky above. Photo: René de Klerk
News direct from the dog’s mouth I
n case the beautiful ears and gorgeous coat weren’t a giveaway, I’m a wild dog. I’m from the Kruger National Park in South Africa, home to most of the wild dogs in South Africa – local really is lekker! I recently decided to do something completely different… I’m a little bit quirky like that. I wanted a bit of adventure, and to find a way to do something meaningful with my life. Where to start though? It can be scary out there, with threats like cars that can knock you flying and horrible sicknesses like rabies that can flatten you – seemingly around every corner. Plus, there’s less and less space, and more and more development everywhere we look. Those are just a few of the things that make life risky for me and my family, and lots of other species out there too. Wild dogs operate best as part of a pack, so I knew I wanted to be a part of something special. Imagine how pleased I was when I saw the ad for Endangered Wildlife Trust spokesperson… I mean, technically I’m not a person, but let’s not sweat the small stuff, I always say. And the EWT is an organisation worth being part of because they don’t just talk about conservation, they get out
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there and do it! So here I am, the official EWT spokesp… I mean, ‘spokesdog’. Obviously I’m perfect for the job, being such a socialite! And as I’m used to travelling great distances as part of my pack, getting around to all of you will be a breeze. This way, I get to help more than just my wild dog family – I also get to share the work the EWT does with all the other species and habitats that need saving. After all, we may each be as unique as the pattern on my coat, but we’re all connected too. Watch this space, as I’ll be sharing more of my adventures with you in each issue of Safari News!
Fact File Name: Mwitu (meaning ‘wild’ in Swahili) Age: Two years old Birthplace: Kruger National Park, South Africa Family details: Seven brothers, two sisters, lots of cousins, but fewer than 450 family members left in South Africa. Spouse: Not yet! Hobbies/interests: Long walks at dusk, playing catch with zebras, watching the Springboks and the Lions, stand-up comedy, passionate about conservation and having a good chat!
Hi! My name is Mwitu
Last Word
SUPER TECHNOLOGY in a piece of string
Illustration by Annalene Lindeque
While it might take forever to receive approval to install a radio in your helicopter, the most important piece of technology required for flying safely is completely unregulated. Otch Otto explains…
A
bout three years ago we bought a R35-million helicopter to deploy rapid response rangers with a tracker dog in pursuit of rhino poachers. To execute a ground-toair operation, you have to be well trained, experienced and flexible. Speed and adaptation are essential success factors, all highly dependent on crisp reliable tactical radio communications. Off-the-shelf helicopters are delivered with a radio equipped for air-to-air communication, so if you want to talk to the team in the bush you need to add a ground radio. However, any addition to an airframe must be approved by Statutory Aviation Authorities, the manufacturer, and your insurance underwriter. This fitting can be done with a cable-tie and by mounting a small
antenna to the bottom of the helicopter. An even simpler way to mount the antenna is to dangle 30cm of wire out of the side door, but that is rather silly. The required radio fitment constitutes a major intervention in airframe performance and safety, and resulted in us using our helicopter without a mounted ground radio for a few years as we awaited approval. The creativity of the rangers resulted in a cab filled with handheld radios and cellphones, and creative hand signals to communicate with the rangers on the ground. One can only wonder what the approval process was to hang a nuclear device on a B25 in 1945, or the weight of the paper pile required to obtain approval for inflight refuelling. Your baby might even have matriculated by the time you receive approval to
fit his baby chair to the helicopter. A crucial part of keeping a helicopter in the air is completely unregulated. The senior field commander on a helicopter-assisted counter-poaching mission qualifies for the left front seat. He stares at a 10cm piece of string mounted on the centre window strut dangling in the wind in front of him during the ride from the base to the area of interception. Whenever I walk past the front of the chopper, I am amazed by this 10cm piece of string or wool tied to a 20cm ‘official’ steel wire on the centre front window strut. I initially thought this out-of-place piece of fluff was part of the rag left behind by the window washer. This critical component actually serves as the slow speed crosswind or wind direction indicator. In flight,
a string dangling 45 degrees to one side during a slow speed approach would indicate that the pilot should straighten out the string (using the joy stick and rudder) to point the loose tip of the string towards the windowpane. He is then facing into wind and can land. It is unknown whether this string has statutory approval and whether the practise of knotting the tip, so it does not unravel at high speed, is prescribed or illegal. The knot obviously interferes with the angle of the dangle. Nothing can replace this piece of string; nothing is more practical and reliable. The cheapest, simplest, most reliable and most efficient low-altitude, low-speed instrument technology in the helicopter aircraft industry is free! You can take one from grandma’s knitting basket! Spring Issue 2018 | Safari News | Page 55
EXPERIENCE A WILDLY ROMANTIC SAFARI
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Call: +27 21 201 1446 Visit https://www.safari.com/luxury-safaris/ to find your perfect romantic getaway. Alternatively contact us at HelpMePlan@safari.com or call in and one of our Safari Experts will handcraft the romantic African experience of a lifetime for you.
1. Open camera 2. Point at code 3. Click on link