Fatimah
the textile park
Indonesia Saffana Zayn |Master project, 2021
ecological theory why textile? context analysis scenario & program the design ecological development design details p.3 p.18 p.21 p.28 p.33
. contents
p.5
living processes heritage ecology & abiotic
nature - society relationship community multi-species & non-humans
cultures
context /connecting
humans
biotic
/integrating
meet the needs
cycles society design society nature ting context of people. investigation
organisms community
desireable & undesireable human
ecological
natures of places. multi-species assemblages plants processes monsoon adaptable permeable ecosystems environment sytems patternsdesign skills strategies
physical environment /interacting
/connecting needs
collective intelligence architectural
human locality politic 3
ecology nature - society relationship
society culture environment context humans & non-humans organisms morphology climate of places.
meet the needs of people intelligence together as community heritage locality politic economy social
natures
collective
4
plastics yard trimmings glass food wood leather textile other metals paper & paperboard 1.56% 3.13% 4.19% 12.11% 12.20% 8.76% 23.05% 21.59% 5.83% 6.19%
the amount is growing
By 2030, it is predicted as a whole to be discarding more than 134 million tonnes of textiles a year.
(Total MSW generated by material, 2018) textile
5.83%
5
. the abandoned of textile waste
On average 12% of clothes in the wardrobes of women could be considered “inactive”
- sociologist Sophie Woodward at the University of Manchester
Around 85% of all textiles thrown away in the US –roughly 13 million tonnes in 2017 –are either dumped into landfill or burned. and globally, an estimated 92 million tonnes of textiles waste is created each year and the equivalent to a rubbish truck full of clothes ends up on landfill sites every second.
2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2000
only 12% of the material used for clothing ends up being recycled.
Compare that to paper, glass and plastic PET bottles – which have recycling rates of 66%, 27% and 29% respectively in the US.
At the same time we are buying more clothes than ever –the average consumer now buys 60% more clothing than they did 15 years ago.
Globally, around 56 million tonnes of clothing are bought each year, and this is expected to rise to 93 million tonnes by 2030 and 160 million tonnes by 2050.
2009 2000 2010 2011 2000 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
6
. textile cycle
Most cotton produced in East Africa goes to Asia where it is spun and weaven into apparel and then shipped to the US and EU.
After a couple of years, it returns to Africa as used clothing and disrupts the local textile industry.
Flow of new clothes
Flow of second-hand clothes
Flow of recycle textile
Flow of raw materials (cotton & silk)
Top textile exporting countries worldwide 2019
Canada USA
kenya tanzania rwonda brundi ASIA UAE South Korea uganda China EUROPE India Pakistan 7
.
the impact of textileenvironmental needed to produce one t-shirt liters water drinking water for one person for 2.5 years of the waste of the global greenhouse gas emissions by clothing and footwear production is more than all international flights and maritime air
is
2700
= enough
5,2%
10%
accaused
this
shipping combine
20% of industrial water pollution comes from textiles treatment
0.5 million tones is needed to produce of microbes from washing synthesis are released in the oceans every year 200,000 tones of dyes are lost to effluents every year
Synthetic fibers, such as polyester, are plastic fibers, therefore non biodegradable can take up to 200 years to decompose. Synthetic fibers are used in 72% of our clothing in our landfills are textiles ground
8 ter ears
aste
water
mistreatment
injured during shearing sheep cruel handling (kicked, dragged, etc)
. the impact of textilesocial & cultural animal welfare
1 sheep = up to 8.1kg wool per year it equals 6-8 sweater
farmer suicide
“Farmers ranchers and agricultural workers are experiencing severe stress and high rates of suicide
craftspeople struggle to
for many years using Indian embroider on their expertise the way of many workers still employment they are paid mea 17hours a da access to educa
”
(no
for one meter of silk fabric, 3000 to 15,000 silkworms are boiled alive
some 6,600 silkworms are killed to make just 1 kilogram of silk silk
adapt
luxury brands have been quietly embroiders for their goods, depending tise while offering little in employment protection still do not have any yment benefits protections.
meager sums to work up to day, in overcrowded slums education or public services)
bonded labor
child labor
108 million boys and girls between 5 and 17 years are identified as child laboureres in agriculture
nearly 70,9% of child labour is found in agriculture
most of children’s agriculture work is unpaid
9
#textilewaste instagram & twitter hashtag #fastfashion #handmade #slowfashion #fashion #circularfashion #sustaina #zerowaste #textilerecycling #design #sustaina #circulardesign only 12% of the material used for clothing ends up being r Compare that to paper, glass and plastic bottles – which have recycling rates of 66%, 27% and 29% respectively in the US.
#fastfashion #handmade#ecofriendly #fashion #upcycled #circularfashion #upcycledfashion#upcycling #plasticwaste #ethicalfashion #circulareconomy #sustainable #fashionsustainability #sustainablefashion #sustainability #circulardesign ecycled. cling 10
Prato, Italy
Kenya, Africa Panipat, India
Kenya, Africa Panipa
Sourcing
where the textiles come from?
Preparing
every year over 100.000 of discarded clothes countries to be recy every year 20 million kg of textiles are landfilled each year
distributing & sorting
second hand clothing imports from western countries garment
sorting b
anipat, India Prato, Italy
100.000 tonnes
travel from western recycled in Panipat
15% of all the recycling worldwide happens in Prato mostly from US and the city itself donation
sorting by colorslashers
by color
sorting by material
12
Processing the recycle process thread into
into
removing zipper shredding spinning weaving
carbonizing& buttons
shredding
shredding
washing & driingspinning
weaving into threadthreads
zipper
into
12.a
Reconstruct from thread to products second hand market
The product quality clothes blanket
threads
weaving
low
threadsthreads
ving weaving designing
12.b
clothes threads fabricsthreads
recycling in
1.preparing sorting outdoor 2. processing removing button & zipper outdoor - indoor shredding indoor spinning indoor 2. pr ocessing
space
Panipat, India indoor outdoor textile from kutch loading area indoor outdoor 1. preparing 2. processing sorting removing button & zipper
weaving indoor
4. distributing outdoor - indoor
spinning indoor weaving indoor 2. pr ocessing worker’s home shredding spinning weaving (into threads) weaving (into blanket) weaving (into blanket) 3. reconstruct 4. distributing storing distributing blanket threads 3. reconstruct 13
recycling space in Prato, Italy
weaving
3. reconstruct 4. distributing
designing storing storing 1. preparing sorting 2. processing shredding carbonizing washing driingsorting sorting sorting sorting sorting loading area
1. preparing sorting - color - material 2. pr ocessing carbonizing shredding washing & driing weaving weaving (into threads) weaving (into fabric) weaving (into fabric) distributing 3. reconstruct 4. distributing designing storing storing storing loading area 14
. spatial analysis
sorting - 1 sorting - 2 carbonizing shredding washing, driing weaving - 1 weaving - 2 designing storing Prato, Italy preparing processing re-constructing
sorting -
Panipat, India
removing zipper & buttons shredding spinning weaving -1 weaving
2 storing preparing processing re-constructing
worker’s home worker’s home 15
. synthesis
collecting area sorting area based on material based on color selling area buying area storing area relationship textile circulation worker circulation community circulation
weaving 2 (into fabric) area
shredding area
removing (zipper & button) area area & driing area area
weaving 1 (into threads) area area
designing area
storing
carbonizing
washing
controlling
16
upcycle textile
raw material
processing - fiber fabric - wet processors garment assembly companies retailers post production textile waste
consumers post consumer textile waste recycle
new organic fibers
17
the-process
sorting removing zipper & buttons carbonizing shredding weaving - 1 weaving - 2 washing & driing consumer the process of upcycle textile engagementwithlocalcommunity
. the scenario
community living the process of
the tradition of Saree-making locality people/community tradition history the role of Saree
the traditional process of Saree continued to fall into decline...
handweaver
18
activities
textile collecting textile-waste sorting textile carbonizing textile shredding
traditional dye mechanism
proposed mechanism
natural dye
. textiles are involved in the textile production process
dyeingfiber spinning fiber carding fiber combing weavingfiber washing & driing harvesting dyeing drying dipping spinning ocess 19
public private event space entry connecting area gathering selling&buying performing meeting upper lower 2 3 4 . relationship_horizontal
spinning drying weaving designing working meeting upper lower lower
textile processing
storing
resting upper
1 20
. the design 01. natural dyeing area 02. weaving area 03.
05. performance areadrying area 04. gathering area 21
1. natural dyeing area 1 3 4 5 2 2 1 3 4 5 2 2
22
madder plant tumeric indigo 1. natural dyeing area
harvesting roof sorting fermentation filtration dipping 23
2. weaving area
this area focuses predominantly on the human interaction with the Saree creation process
Saree weaving process visitor designing w ea ving spinning (y ar n)
Saree
through the path/walkways visitor will experience the atmosphere of Saree production process
designing weaving path yarn spinning
visitor
roof 24
3. drying area
dyeing area
dyeing area to performance area dyeing area
the modul
drying fabric metal structure
ladder to hang the fabric
drying area as path
25
4. gathering area
mo v ement activity low high textile surface as playground translucent material
shade tree
lower surface: gathering upper surface: playground brace ring as structure
26
5. performance area
performance area
audience to gathering area to d y eing area
membrane structure the boundary between dyeing & performance area perform audience
27
. ecological development 01. dyeing cycle 02. up-c
up-cycle textile flow 03. textile, people & community event assembly 28 1
1. natural dye mechanism
pump 3. composting 2. drying 1. from soaked plants water filtration composting extracting
pump
29
2. up-cycle textile flow
1 to market 2 3 4 5 7 6 1. recycling 2. dyeing 3. drying 4. yarn spinning 5. weaving 6. designing 7. packaging & storage 30
2. up-cycle textile flow
collecting area area
recycling
textile waste is collected by local community - donation - voluntary recycling area weaving area yarn spinning area recycling area topackagingarea
people flow textile flow textile & people flow packaging area & storage g area dyeing dyeing area dyeing area drying area drying area drying area to market 31
3. assembly – textile, people & community event
dyeing tower
madder plant cultivation tumeric cultivation
arrival arrival area
event space textile processing indigo cultivation service & staff weaving storage & packaging gathering area 32
7 7 7 1 2 3 8 8 8
1. saree shop 2. amphitheater 3. gathering area 4. storage & packaging 5. yarn spinning 6. recycling area 4 6 5 9 7. dyeing area 8. drying area 9. worker lounge st1 floor plan 33
8 8 8 1 2 3 9 9 9
4 6 5 10 7 1. saree shop 2. amphitheater 3. gathering area 4. storage & packaging 5. yarn spinning 6. recycling area 7. designing area 8. dyeing area 9. drying lounge nd2 floor plan 10. worker lounge 34
A B 1 2 3 4 5
metal join stainless steel nodes with bamboo veneered steel bamboo veneer JOIN DETAILS RAILING DETAILS Wiremash F3035 2x2 profile 4x4 profile 35
36
37
38
. references
Ahmad, S., & Mulyadi, I. (2016). The application of Recycled Textile and Innovative Spatial Design Strategies for a Recycling Banham, R. (1971). The Architecture of Four Ecologies. London : Allen Lane The Penguin Press. BillyNou. (2020, September 13). How to Natural Dye with Madder | Botanical Colour | SHades of Red. Retrieved from https://www Bremner, L. (2020). Monsoon [+ other] Waters. Bremner, L., & Cook, J. (2020). Monsoon [+other] Grounds.
EPA. (n.d.). National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling. Retrieved from Unites States Environmental Fashion, C. N. (n.d.). The Sustainable Fashion Glossary. Retrieved from https://www.condenast.com/glossary/environmental-impacts-of-fashion Fashion, U. (2020, April 5). How to Dye Fabric: Natural Dyeing with Turmeric (HINDI). Retrieved from https://www.youtube Gissen, D. (2009). Subnature Architecture's Other Environments. New York: Princeton Architectural Press Hall, C. A. (2019). MIXING IT UP IN PRATO: identifying innovation hotspots within mechanical textile recycling . Conference: International, I. -O. (2020, May 29). Retrieved from Textile Mountain - The hidden burden of our fashion waste: https://www kmaexports. (2012, August 17). Indigo Dye Extraction . Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEMcjmyjoOY&t=191s Museum, V. a. (2018, June 6). In Search of Forgotten Colours - Sachio Yoshioka and the Art of Natural Dyeing. Retrieved from Newell, J. P., & Cousins, J. J. (2015). The Boundaries of Urban Metabolism: Towards the Political-Industrial Ecology. Progress News, B. (2020, December 16). Retrieved from Recycling fashion: The town turning waste into clothes- BBC News: https://www Opperskalski, S. (2020). Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report 2020. TextileExchange .
Orr, D. W. (2002). The Nature of Design Ecology, Culture and Human Intention . New York : Oxford University Press . Paints, A. (2017, September 19). In Search of Indigo . Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvF7uiBH-8I&t=921s Scalbert, I. (2010). The Perfect Worlds of Ecology. Field Journal vol.4 (1), 11-15. Stories, R. (2019, November 26). Retrieved from What really happens to our recycled clothes? | Unravel | Real Stories Indie doc USAID. (2017). Overview of the Used Clothing Market in East Africa: Analysis of Determinants and Implications. Wenner, N. (2017). The Production of Indigo Dye from Plants. FIBERSHED.
Centre Exhibition Space. AMER International Conference on Quality of Life, AicQoL2016Medan (pp. 525 – 535). Elsevier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3kYtM_iTuw&t=90s
vironmental Protection : https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/national-overview-facts-and-figures-materials vironmental-impacts-of-fashion outube.com/watch?v=QwxJXQPV0lY&t=200s
Conference: Global Fashion Conference 2018. London https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1vE8uL--HM Y&t=191s
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OiG-WjbCQA&t=7s of Human Geography. Progress of Human Geography, 702-728. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7i0QMnz4ExY
tch?v=vvF7uiBH-8I&t=921s
doc.: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHPBJySIXZw
