THE EASTERN CAPE HIGHLANDS Dave Walker What is it about the Eastern Cape Highlands that has attracted many dedicated and adventurous fly fishers down the years? Although well-described by a number of aficionados in many publications, I’d like to add my five cents worth starting with a brief historical interlude. Although unlabelled at the time, the dire impact of “global warming”, more recently referred to as “climate change”, has, in retrospect been with us for some time. For example, in the 90s, I began organising fishing festivals, the first in Barkly East and subsequently on an annual basis centred in Rhodes from 1996. These events were in December each year. It wasn’t too long before it became abundantly evident that the summer rains we had relied upon were beginning later and later each year. To avoid complete embarrassment by the dearth of early summer rain, a lack of water that became the norm, I duly shifted the event to March of each year. This has been the norm ever since but which has also been affected by climate change from time to time. Ironically, the weather gods continue to interfere with what we perceived to be normal patterns, broadly speaking, spring rain followed by summer thunderstorms and approaching autumn, “geelperkse reen” and regular snowfalls in winter. Looking at rainfall records dating back to 1990 and combined with almost three decades of hindsight, annual rainfall is important but from a fishing point of view, it is when it falls that counts. The moral of the story is staying in touch on a regular basis is essential. In very broad terms, there are three fishing zones in the Eastern Cape Highlands. Picture a dining room table set with the usual paraphernalia as well as a few taller objects; www.saflyfishingmag.co.za
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a pepper grinder, a water jug and the like being analogous peaks that characterise Zone 1. This zone consists of the plateaux along the escarpment. These are more or less easily reached depending on the presence of roads. The very upper Bell River is a fine example of the former and with the advent of the Tenahead Mountain Lodge becoming a member of the Wild Trout Association, their water is a “Lilliputianists” delight. Not often that one can go fishing at 2500m above sealevel so when the time is right, jump at the chance. Set in a valley reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands, the entire experience is wondrous, ranging from the aquatic life and extending to the terrestrial flora, animal and bird life. The stream mostly flows over bedrock that is interspersed with small plunge pools and others formed by eroded material deposited in the watercourse. Where soil banks are found, overhanging montane vegetation provides shelter for the aquatic population. Keep an eye out for undercuts found below the root level of the bankside vegetation. At this altitude, the riverine vegetation is mostly “khashu” sic (Merxmuellera macowanii ), a wiry grass that forms large tussocks. The leaf blades grow up to 650mm and have sharp tips that can make life unpleasant for folk wearing short pants. Although the calmest of days can be experienced, dealing with the wind and accurate casting are pre-requisites for zone 1 angling success where great lies for trout can be found. The residents of these lies venture out to feed on the passing aquatic and terrestrial insects such as grasshoppers that occasionally get blown onto the surface of the stream. Usually crystal clear water, trout must be stalked with the greatest of care on these waters.
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