Jacquard design

Textile design

AWDC Advance weave Documention

ADVANCED WEAVE DESIGN AND CAD

Advance weave Documention

Textile design

Textile design

ADVANCED WEAVE DESIGN AND CAD

National Institute of Fashion Technology CHENNAI

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Mohammed safwan B-des Textile design

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CONTENTS

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04

INRTODUCTION

07

RESIZING MOTIFS INTO 400 , 200 AND 100 HOOKS

11

IDENTIFYING AND ANALYSING JACQUARD FABRIC

17

CLEANING AND WEAVE SIMULATION OF 3

25

CLEANING AND WEAVE SIMULATION OF

37

SIMULATING WEAVES ON OUR PHOTOGRAPH

41

CREATE A COORDINATED COLLECTION OF MO-

47

CLEANING ARTWORKS

50

CLEANING AND PREPARING AN EXISTING DESIGN FOR JACQUARD WEAVING

54

RECREATE A LAMPAS DESIGN WITH 4 COLOUR WEFT , 3 COLOUR WEFT AND 2 COLOUR WEFT

58

FINDING REPEAT CLEANING AND PREPARING AN EXISTING DESIGN FOR JACQUARD WEAVING

ARTWORKS

RESEARCHED JACQUARD FABRIC

TIFS INSPIRED FROM CALIGRAPHY

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65

PREPARING AN MULTI COLOR DESIGN FOR

73

COORDINATED JACQUARD COLLECTION

75

BRAND STUDY

80

ANALYSIS

84

IDEATION

93

EXPLORATION

97

COORDIATES DEVEOPMENT

106

WEAVE SIMULATION

104

COLLECTION

110

MOCKUPS

115

COLOURWAYS

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JACQUARD WEAVING

004

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JACQUARD Origin

Loom

The weave of jacquard finds its history in brocade. In 4th century Byzantium, linens and wools were being woven into complex patterns to form beautiful fabrics. With the import of silk weaving around the 6th century, brocade became as luxurious to the touch as it was to the eyes. Byzantine craftsmen began to weave silk into brocades, damasks, and tapestry-like fabrics.

By the middle ages, brocades were so expensive that they were only available to the upper nobility and rich. Brocade soon became a symbol of wealth and power, and was favored by monarchs throughout the medieval world.

Joseph Marie Jacquard started out as a draw boy. Draw boys were always small children, as they had to be able to climb on top of the loom in order to work. They typically spent 6-8 hours a day working, lifting about 30 pounds of weaving reeds at a time, at the direction of the weaver. This was backbreaking work, often done in horrible conditions, and many draw boys were crippled by the profession. Jacquard knew there had to be a better way. He dedicated his life to finding one.

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Throughout all of these centuries, brocades were woven by hand on large looms called draw looms. These looms required two people to operate, a weaver and a draw boy.

The weaver would call out to the draw boy, letting him know which threads to lift and when, so that the correct colored threads would show through each line of weave.

This was an incredibly labor intensive and slow process. By the end of a full day, a good team of weaver and draw boy could expect to have completed roughly two square inches of finely patterned silk cloth.

By the 1700s, several French inventors were hard at work to create a better loom, but one former draw boy had a vision that would change the world forever.

By the late 1700’s, machines were being developed to handle all sorts of repetitive tasks. They were already being widely used to create simple patterned fabrics, but brocades still required an artist’s touch, since their designs were far more complex. In order to create such a pattern, there would need to be a way to program the machine to change its weave depending on which line of the pattern was being created.

Jacquard created a simple but ingenious solution, using stiff punch cards similar to the reels still seen in player pianos and mechanical music boxes today. In 1801, his initial concept won him the attention of Napoleon himself, who called Jacquard to Paris and commissioned him to perfect his process in the national interest.

The final version, which debuted in 1804, became the world’s first programmable

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machine. It was later a strong influence for Charles Babbage, credited with creating the world’s first computer, as well as many other uses of punch cards in all sorts of modern applications. The punch cards he created are also thought to be the origin of binary code systems.

Modern Jacquard

Modern jacquard fabrics can be made from a variety of different fibers, from natural cottons and silks, to man-made polyester and polyester cotton blends. What all of them have in common is the method of construction.

Generally they are intricate in design, and tend to be stronger and thicker than many other types of weave. The hallmark of jacquard fabrics is that the design is woven into the fabric itself, rather than stamped, printed, or embroidered on top of it. Because of this, some jacquards are even reversible, with the negative of their pattern found on the back.

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More than a century and a half after Monsieur Jacquard first revolutionized the textile industry, in the 1980’s the original electronic jacquard looms were brought to the market.

Today, Jacquard’s punch card programming has widely been replaced by modern computer programming, allowing for far greater complexity of design. Yet the fabrics they produce still bear Jacquard’s name, an homage to the amazing advances he dreamed up centuries ago.

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006 Textile design

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ACTIVITY 01

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RESIZING MOTIFS INTO 400 , 200 AND 100 HOOKS

008

200 hoooks

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REPEAT SET IN 4000 HOOKS, NUMBER OF REPEATS - 10

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200 hoooks

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REPEAT SET IN 4000 HOOKS, NUMBER OF REPEATS - 20

010

100 hoooks

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REPEAT SET IN 4000 HOOKS, NUMBER OF REPEATS - 40

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ACTIVITY 02

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To study of Chelsea harbour design centre and identify Jacquard fabrics.

012

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SAMPLE 1 - Nobilis NAME : Fantasia CATEGORY : UPHOLSTERY COMPOSITION : Coton 36%, Viscose 64%, Pile 100% WIDTH : 137 cm WEIGHT : 800 GSM Vertical repeat : 30.5 cm Horizontal repeat : 33.5 cm SHRINKAGE : 0 %

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SAMPLE 01

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SAMPLE 2 - Nobilis NAME : Litho fabric CATEGORY : UPHOLSTERY COMPOSITION : Coton 38%, Viscose 32%, Polyester 19%, Modal 11% WIDTH : 144 cm WEIGHT : 550 GSM Vertical repeat : 66 cm Horizontal repeat : 71 cm SHRINKAGE : 0 %

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SAMPLE 02

014

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SAMPLE 3 - Nobilis NAME : Fresco fabric CATEGORY : UPHOLSTERY COMPOSITION : Polyester 35%, Coton 28%, Lin 19%, Viscose 18% WIDTH : 140 cm WEIGHT : 550 GSM Vertical repeat : 31.5 cm Horizontal repeat : 17.5 cm SHRINKAGE : 0 %

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SAMPLE 03

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SAMPLE 4 - Nobilis NAME : Fresco fabric CATEGORY : UPHOLSTERY COMPOSITION : Polyester 35%, Coton 28%, Lin 19%, Viscose 18% WIDTH : 140 cm WEIGHT : 450 GSM Vertical repeat : 59 cm Horizontal repeat : 70 cm SHRINKAGE : 0 %

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SAMPLE 04

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ACTIVITY 03

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Cleaning and weave simulation of 3 art works

018

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Weave simulation Weave used : pick and pick

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ORIGINAL ARTWORK

Fabric view

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020

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Weave simulation Weave used : pick and pick

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ORIGINAL ARTWORK

Fabric view

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Weave simulation Weave used : pick and pick

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ORIGINAL ARTWORK

Fabric view

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ACTIVITY 04

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To recreate artworks inspired form existing jaquard fabrics. Reducing the colour and cleaning and setting in repeat

026

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Original artwork 22.8 x 27.5 inches

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Artwork recreated

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Unit repeat 3520 x 2640 pixels

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colour reduced - 8

028

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Original artwork 31.5 x 17.5 inches

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Artwork recreated

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Unit repeat 1831 x 1320 pixels

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colour reduced - 3

030

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Original artwork 26 x 28 inches

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Artwork recreated

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Unit repeat 3699 x 2640 pixels

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colour reduced - 3

032

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Original artwork

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26 x 28 inches

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Unit repeat 5401 x 2640 pixels

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colour reduced - 6

034

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Original artwork

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18.07 x 14 inches

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Unit repeat Cleaned 1364 x 1056 pixels

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colour reduced - 5

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ACTIVITY 05

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Simulating weaves on photograph

038

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ORIGINAL PICTURE

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COLOUR REDUCED - 16 COLOURS

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Weave point simulation

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Weave added

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ACTIVITY 06

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CREATE A COORDINATED COLLECTION OF MOTIFS INSPIRED FROM CALIGRAPHY

042

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20 hooks

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200 hooks

400 hooks

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044

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20 hooks

200 hooks

400 hooks

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Size : 46 x 120’’ Body :Plain Weave Border and body motifs : Satin Weave Pallu : Sateen

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046 Textile design

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ACTIVITY 07

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Cleaning artwork

050

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22.8 x 27.5 inches Colour reduced

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Cleaning artwork

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Artwork cleaned

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048

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ACTIVITY 08

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CLEANING AND PREPARING AN EXISTING DESIGN FOR JACQUARD WEAVING

054

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Jaquard fabric - saree

Repeat size 4inch x 3 inch Size - 408px X 252px No: of colours - 3 EPI - 136 PPI - 84 Dimensions - 748px X 997px Weft - 2 colours Warp - 1 colour

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Fabric view

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ACTIVITY 09

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RECREATE A LAMPAS DESIGN WITH 4 COLOUR WEFT , 3 COLOUR WEFT AND 2 COLOUR WEFT

058

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Size - 748px X 997px No: of colours - 8 EPI - 192 PPI - 150 Dimensions - 2640px X 3000px Weft - 4 colours Warp - 1 colour

Weft order

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Dark colours Fabric view

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Light colours

060

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Size - 480px X 356px No: of colours - 3 EPI - 192 PPI - 150 Dimensions (fabric format) 480px X 240px Weft - 2 colours Warp - 1 colour

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Fabric view

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weaves used - Pick and pick

062

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Size - 1320px X 2298px No: of colours - 5 EPI - 192 Dimensions (fabric format) 1320px X 1800px Weft - 3 colours

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Warp - 1 colour

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Fabric view

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weaves used - Pick and pick (Sateen and satin)

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ACTIVITY 10

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CLEANING AND PREPARING AN EXISTING DESIGN FOR JACQUARD WEAVING

066

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Repeat - 480 x 344 LET ‘ X ‘ BE THE NUMBER OF HOOKS REQUIRED EPI : PPI = 192 : 100 480 : X DIMENSIONS OF THE DESIGN : 480 X 344 X = (480 x PPI x B)/(EPI X A) = =(480 x 100 X 480) / (192 x 344) A AND B IS THE WIDTH AND HEIGHT OF THE DESIGN IN PIXELS

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= 180

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Fabric view

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Ratio 192 : 100 480 x 180 weaves used - Sateen and satin

068

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Repeat - 480 x 464 LET ‘ X ‘ BE THE NUMBER OF HOOKS REQUIRED EPI : PPI = 192 : 100 440 : X DIMENSIONS OF THE DESIGN : 480 X 464 X = (440 x PPI x B)/(EPI X A) = =(440x 100 X 480) / (192 x 464) A AND B IS THE WIDTH AND HEIGHT OF THE DESIGN IN PIXELS

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ORIGINAL ARTWORK

= 240

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FABRIC FORMAT 440 X 350 px Ratio 190 : 100 480 x 240

Weaves used : twiil 1/4 ( right and left) , satin

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Fabric view

070

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Repeat - 480 x 464

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Size - 2640px X 2640px No: of colours - 4 EPI - 192 PPI - 150 Dimensions (fabric format) - 2640px X 2060px Weft - 3 colours Warp - 1 colour

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Weaves used : satin, pick and pick

weft colour

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Fabric view

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ACTIVITY 11

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Develope coordinated jacquard design collection

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ABOUT CLIENT : Nobilis Paris PRODUCTS :Wallpers, Fabrics, Rugs, Furniture MARKET : French Founded in 1935, Maison Pierre Frey creates and produces fabrics by taking inspiration from classical and contemporary art WALLPAPER

FABRIC

RUGS

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A leading brand in the world of interiors, Nobilis is inspired by its French heritage, with collections ranging from traditional French patterns, to chic contemporary designs. With a richness of materials and use of technical innovation, Nobilis’ creations are elegantly designed and beautifully finished.

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LITERATURE RIVIEW In uncertain times, our home moves centre stage. Now more than ever, interior spaces are meeting functional and emotional needs. In other words, emotion is becoming a primary function. love of home conveys security and safety. Warm vintage colours such as peach, blush, washed-out forgetme-not blue, nude and nectar yellow create a comforting, intimate atmosphere. These soothing colours with their nostalgic appeal are outlined by radiant white, dark liquorice and mint. Floral decorations and romantic motifs offer an invitation to dream in the here and now. The look is cosy and pleasing, but not too luxurious – simply suitable for the setting.

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Home has never been more important than during this pandemic. We have never spent more time at home than during the past year and a half. Now more than ever, the home is the centre of structuring our everyday lives and our safe base. Here, the role of home textiles and the positivity textiles can bring – comfort, softness, expression, identity and even safety – has a great outlook for 22/23. Likewise, textiles for the hospitality sector will be important as outgoing activities need to be safe, comfortable and immersive to gain attention from the returning customers.

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COLLECTION ANALYSIS

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WALLPAPERS

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FURNISHING FABRICS

080

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FURNISHING FABRICS

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ANALYSIS Nobilis is inspired by its French heritage, with collections ranging from traditional French patterns, to chic contemporary designs.(geometric, abstract, texrures, florals, damask…) With a richness of materials and use of technical innovation, Nobilis’ creations are elegantly designed and beautifully finished.

As a brand, Nobilis Paris is versatile in its design collections. Well-coordinated experimentation of abstract forms and textures can be seen throughout. Taking these into consideration concepts are ideated to develop a design collection.

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BRIEF

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To design and develop a home textile collection consisting of one main design and 3 coordinates. That is to be conceptualized using the technique of jacquard.

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HYPERNATURE

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Hyper Nature is a symphony of immersive realms digitally communicating nature’s secrets and treasures. For the home textiles industry, Hyper Nature is about digital representations of nature and creating design offering inspiration of how nature would make – or furthermore, being the facilitator of nature’s blueprint and considering how to grow a better world by fusing technology and nature.

Photobiology and light science technologies create a new path of more sustainable methods of agriculture.

For instance, blue, red, and ultraviolet light can enhance plant growth and reduce pesticide use up to 50 per cent. This knowledge formed the basis for the project Grow by Studio Roosegaarde. According to Daan Roosegaarde, “GROW is the dreamscape which shows the beauty of light and sustainability. Not as a utopia but as a protopia, improving step by step”.

COLOURS

KEY TAKEAWAYS Hyper Nature is about reconnecting to nature through technology: breaking down the silos to create new immersive worlds.

Hyper Nature is not only about digitalising the natural world but going beyond for a new tactility and hybrid reality.

Hyper Nature is a digital facilitator of nature’s blueprint, fusing technology and nature for a protopia state and creating a better tomorrow step by step.

Hyper Nature attracts younger audiences both due to its vivid colours and advanced visual expressions. The ability to play and quickly change as per digital interaction strengthens the attraction to younger consumers.

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BRAINSTORMING Mineral stone

Sea bed corals

broken glass

fractals

Photo biologhy

Luminous

Reflective

Fluid

Contrasting

Photobiology

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Photobiology Photobiology, the biology of light, is a subdiscipline in biology. It focuses on the effects of light, particularly, the non-ionizing radiation, on organisms and biological processes.

084

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IDEATION Colliods Colloids are a branch of Soft Matter. A Colloid is a suspension of soft particles, often not fixed in size and shape.

Using colloids, and emulsions as the key tool to develop 3D forms and figures. Transforming those into 2d artworks to develop design coordinates

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Ideation 01

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Interference Interference is the phenomenon in which two waves superpose to form the resultant wave of the lower, higher or same amplitude. The most commonly seen interference is an optical interference or light interference.

This phenomenon can be explored using a combination of soap solutions and other mediums to develop unique patterns. Photographing these and developing artworks from the same.

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Ideation 02

086

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Magnetic waves magnetic field, a vector field in the neighbourhood of a magnet, electric current, or changing electric field, in which magnetic forces are observable.

This phenomenon carried out on different surfaces using different mediums develop unique patterns.

Exploring the possibilities by changing the physical parameters of magnets to understand the interplay of colours and magnetic fields.

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Ideation 03

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Diffuse reflection Diffuse reflection is the reflection of light or other waves or particles from a surface such that a ray incident on the surface is scattered at many angles rather than at just one angle as in the case of specular reflection.

Artworks and photographs are visualised using this phenomenon. The scattering of light and reflections bring new dimensions to the artwork, evolving into something new

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Ideation 04

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INSPIRATION PHOTO GALLERY

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REDEFINING BRIEF To design and develop a home textile collection for the home textile Brand Nobilis Paris. Analysing the Trend study and market research, the theme Hyper nature from Hem Textiles 2021 is taken as the main theme and for the colour palette. Through analysis and brainstorming on the same ‘diffused reflection’ is ideated as the source of inspiration.

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Keeping in mind the keyword of distorted, reflective, vibrant, Psychedelic, Experimenting and exploring diffusion on a variety of surfaces that are to be photographed and recreated into artworks through a digital medium that is to be conceptualised using the technique of jacquard weaving. The jacquard fabric will have a plain weave, twill and satin as the main weaves. slub yarns are to be used for incorporating tactility into the fabric.

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TEXTURE EXPLORATIONS

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ARTWORK M01 size : 58.29 x 39.23 inches Colour reduced : 9 Resized Unit repeat : 44.27 x 35 inches

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COORDINATES DEVELOPMENT

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ARTWORK M02 size : 41.15 x 39.75 inches Colour reduced : 8 Resized Unit repeat : 38.27 x 35 inches

098

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ARTWORK M03 size : 42 x 28 inches Colour reduced : 6 Resized Unit repeat : 10.5 x 7 inches

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ARTWORK M03 size : 37 x 25 inches Colour reduced : 10 Resized Unit repeat : 12.29 x 8.64 inches

100

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GEOMETRIC PATTERN EXPLORATIONS

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ARTWORK M03 size : 43.46 x 25.46 inches Colour reduced : 6 Resized Unit repeat : 14.54 x 8.64 inches

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COLLECTION

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WEAVE SIMULATION ARTWORK M01 size : 58.29 x 39.23 inches Colour reduced : 9 Resized Unit repeat : 44.27 x 35 inches EPI : 192 PPI : 100 Fabric format : Calculation Let ‘ X ‘ be the number of hooks required EPI : PPI = 192 : 100 2640 : X Dimensions of the design : 2640px X 3340px X = (2640 x PPI x B)/(EPI X A) =

weaves feeded Weft ratio 1:1 Product : three seater sofa (38’ x 90” x 39”)

=(2640 x 100 X 3349) / (192 x 2640) =1920 px A and B is the width and height of the design.

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weaves used 8 satin 7/1 twill 4/1 twill 3/1 twill 3/2 twill 2/2 twill 3/3 twill 1/3 twill 8 end sateen

warp

weft order

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WEAVE SIMULATION ARTWORK M03 size : 42 x 28 inches Colour reduced : 6 Resized Unit repeat : 10.5 x 7 inches EPI : 192 PPI : 100 Fabric format : Calculation Let ‘ X ‘ be the number of hooks required EPI : PPI = 192 : 100 528 : X Dimensions of the design : 792px X 528px X = (528 x PPI x B)/(EPI X A) =

weaves feeded Weft ratio 1:1 Product : three seater sofa (38’ x 90” x 39”)

=(528 x 100 X 528) / (192 x 792) =360 px A and B is the width and height of the design. weaves used

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12 end sateen 12 end satin 7/1 twill 4/4 weft rib 2/2 weft rib

warp

weft order

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MOCKUPS

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COLOURWAYS

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