Townsend/Plan B
Plan B
Townsend/Plan B
Index Atlantic Ocean North Atlantic Ocean Chapter 1
2
Life, a second chance – Leaving home port Through the South Downs, Dover strait, English channel, Iberian Basin to Islas Canaria
Chapter 2
22
Enjoying the [moving] scenery. My time in the Fortunate Isles (Canary Islands)
Chapter 3
29
A straight run south. Islas Canaria to the Arquipelago to de Cabo Verde
Chapter 4
31
Creole times. My time in the Cabo Verde
South Atlantic Ocean Chapter 5
32
Cabo Verde to Cape Town. Passage from Cabo Verde’s to Cape Town
Chapter 6
40
Plan ‘B’ When plan ‘A’ goes belly up there’s only one thing you can do, switch to plan ‘B’
Chapter 7
44
United Nations – ONUCI My time in Abidjan, Ivory Coast
Chapter 8
54
Back at sea The Gulf of Guinea to Ascension Island
Chapter 9
60
Saint’s My time in Ascension Island
Chapter 10
72
Chasing down the sun Ascension to Brazil (Recife)
Chapter 11
78
Let’s party A ‘gay’ time in Brazil
Chapter 12 Difficult decision Brazil to Trinidad
83
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Atlantic Ocean
Caribbean Sea Chapter 13
89
‘Liming’ My time in Trinidad & Tobago W.I
Chapter 14
103
Night of broken dreams Family and friends join Pinta
Chapter 15
118
Windward Islands Grenada, Carriacou, Union Island, Bequia, St Vincent, Martinique, St Lucia, Dominica, Gualdeloupe, Antigua
Chapter 16
142
Leeward Islands St Kitts & Nevis, St Maartin, Antigua
Chapter 17
147
Liming’ part two Unplanned company
Chapter 18
149
Trinidad revisited Getting ready for Panama
Chapter 19
155
Power of the sea Columbian Basin to Casablanca (Panama)
Chapter 20
161
Casablanca My time in Panama
Pacific Ocean North Pacific Ocean Chapter 21
154
Kindness repaid Balboa to the Las Perlas Islands
Chapter 22
156
To the Enchanted Isles Across the Gulf of Panama to the Archipelago De Colon and the Galapagos Islands
South Pacific Ocean Chapter 23
167
Darwin’s world My time in the Galapagos Islands
Chapter 24 Down to the wire Galapagos heading west
170
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Chapter 25
183
The long haul Course change, Tahiti here I come
Chapter 26
193
Hevea Nui My time in Papeete
Chapter 27
202
Society Islands Tahiti - Moorea – Huahinee - Raiatea - Bora Bora
Chapter 28
206
Society Islands to the Cook Islands Bora Bora to Suwarrow
Chapter 29
208
Island time Chilling in Suwarrow
Chapter 30
212
Cook Islands to the Friendly Islands Leaving paradise - Suwarrow to Tonga
Chapter 31
216
Friendly Islands Kava time, my time in Tonga
Chapter 32
221
Rumours and uncharted waters Tong to Fiji
Chapter 33
224
The World In Union My time in Fiji and the rugby World Cup
Chapter 34
235
Weather on my side Fiji to New Zealand
Chapter 35
242
Aotearoa My arrival in New Zealand
Chapter 36
247
Sailing Bye Sailing around New Zealand
Tasman Sea Chapter 37
279
If there’s a heaven then this was hell! The passage from Opua, New Zealand across the Tasman Sea to Brisbane, Australia
Chapter 38 Far side of the world, unexpected problems My time in Australia
290
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Chapter 39
303
Sailing bye once more Sailing around Australia
Chapter 40
303
My past or my destiny! Worrying times
Chapter 41
321
Fitness for service Cairns through the Great Barrier Reef, crossing the Endeavour Strait and the Arafura Sea to Darwin
Indian Ocean Timor Sea Chapter 42
329
Something’s changed The passage to Darwin, a time for reflection
Arabian Sea Chapter 43
329
Back to the Trade’s, Déjà vu Darwin, into the Indian Ocean Déjà vu or memories of times gone by revisited
Chapter 44
379
Pit stop - The Port Of Aden (Yemen) My time in Aden
Red Sea Chapter 45
329
Back to Sea Across the Red Sea to Suez (Egypt)
Chapter 46
392
Heading north Pit stop in Suez and transiting the Suez Canal
Mediterranean Sea Chapter 47
405
Back to the land of easy parts (Europe) Port Sa’id (Egypt) to Manoel Island (Malta)
Chapter 48
405
A city built by gentlemen for gentlemen My time in Malta
Chapter 49
427
Chasing down the sun once more Leaving Malta heading west
Chapter 50 Rescue people fleeing by sea
435
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Chapter 51
436
Onwards to Gib Back on-route for Gibraltar
Atlantic Ocean Mediterranean Sea Chapter 52
438
Sail-less in Gibraltar Forget sleepless in Seattle, I’m sail-less in Gibraltar My time in Gibraltar
North Atlantic Ocean Chapter 53
443
Atlantic bound Gibraltar to Spain
Chapter 54
446
Portuguese by name Pinta
Chapter 55
479
Heading north once more Portugal to Spain
Chapter 56
448
Friends reunited My time in Spain
Chapter 57
451
Familiar waters Spain, the Bay of Biscay and into the English Channel
Chapter 58 A circumnavigation Pinta sailing into her homeport
329
Townsend/Plan B
Chapter 1 by David Townsend
Chapter 1 Out the darkness a wall of water swept my feet from under me, I found myself floating on my back holding on for life with only two fingers amongst a foaming, bubbling mass of sea, helplessly watching as Pinta lay on her port1 side. Pinta being pushed sideways, water scooping over the gunwales 2, water rushing over me, water rushing over the splash board and below decks. The sound of metal being twisted, the moonlight momentarily reflecting off the BBQ being ripped from it’s mounting and carried away into the blackness surrounding me. All I could think off was to just let go! Drift off to Pinta’s stern3, then wait for the life-raft to automatically deploy. I would soon be rescued, I would soon be back home with my family and friends. Often during moments like this time seem’s suspended, in limbo, seconds become minutes, minutes become hours. As I lay on my back my plan to survive momently drifts to one side as memories flood back of the day I departed on these voyage’s. Monday July 25 2005 was a grey, wet, murky morning in the English channel as we said our emotional goodbyes to friends and family. Casting off4 Pinta’s bow and stern lines, gingerly making our way out of the harbour before setting sail like many a sailing vessel before her, Pinta set her course for the downs 5 and the open sea. 20:15hrs (GMT) position 51o19’804N 01o25’247W rain with Southwest winds
1
Port OR Starboard - port being the left hand side of a vessel while starboard is the right hand side.
2
Gunwale - a term used to describe the top edge of the side of a boat.
3
Stern - the back of the boat.
4
Casting off - letting go, in this instance letting all lines go that are holding the vessel alongside.
5
Down’s - served in the age of sail as a permanent base for warships and a gathering point for refitted or newly-built ships coming out of Chatham Dockyard, such as HMS Bellerophon, it also was a safe anchorage during heavy weather, protected on the east by the Goodwin Sands and on the north and west by the coast. The Downs also lie between the Strait of Dover and the Thames Estuary (between Ramsgate and Deal), so both merchant ships awaiting an easterly wind to take them into the English Channel and those going up to London gathered there. It’s was recorded that on one such time as many as 800 sailing ships were at anchor there.
Townsend/Plan B/ 8
Beaufort 6 force two, reaching force five to six with a lumpy two metre swell running. As Pinta approaches the Royal Sovereign light7 we have covered 69.69Nm 8. That was the day two years ago when I set off to live my dream, a dream to sail upon the oceans of our world, a dream to sail around our world. I had sold my car and home (I give away of my home’s contents to those who were in need) to enable me to purchase Pinta. I could not believe how emotional I was feeling, some twelve hours fifty-five minutes previously Pinta was secured alongside, myself and Peter (my crew, known as woody to his friends) were having our breakfast. Now with the Royal Sovereign light now to our stern woody’s takes the helm, I go below decks. Laying upon my bunk I recall a time when all of this would have seemed impossible.
The year was 1969, I was then aged nine. I started having problems with my knees, many visits seeing specialists, years of blood tests, ultrasonic treatment and physiotherapy followed. To be honest I really think they had no idea what the problem was. At the ages of eleven they diagnosed it as ’growing pains’, saying “I would soon grow out of it”! To me it was important, I was unable to participate in P.E. (Physical Education) which, although I did not enjoy the indoor aspect I did love the outdoors, I loved football. Like many boys at that age I loved football I was a proud wearer of the number eleven shirt, the same as worn by George Best. In reality, if not during the game then afterwards I would be in so much pain I would have to be carried off the pitch. This went on for several years and eventually seemed to disappear, perhaps the doctors where right, perhaps I had grown out of it. Passage day 2, Thursday July 26 2005 22:00hrs (GMT) position 51o19’804N
6
Beaufort - the Beaufort Scale is an empirical measure for describing wind speed based mainly on observed sea conditions (on land it is categorised by the physical effects it has on vegetation and structures). Its full name is the Beaufort Wind Force Scale. A full description of this scale is shown in appendix 1. 7
Originally a light vessel which protects the Royal Sovereign Shoal since 1875.
8
Nm - Nautical mile equals 1.151 statute mile.
Townsend/Plan B/ 9
01o25’247W a slow night, Pinta becalmed 9 off Eastbourne. Later during the early evening we managed to make good progress across the English channel although we are now once more becalmed, this time off Alderney. The weather remains wet (rain) with variable 10 winds, later 15 to 24kn11 (gusting thirty). Sea state lumpy with 2m
(metre) swell, covered 119Nm today. time to shake woody, kettle on, tea bag in
the cup. After a brief handover woody takes the helm, I caught up on some reading below decks.
1989 I started work back in the Merchant Navy on the local ferry service between Dover and Calais, nine months later the trouble with my knees returned. My local doctor refereed me to the Dreadnought12 Merchant Navy medical department now located within Guy’s & St Thomas’s hospital’s (London). By 1990 it was becoming clear that I would soon have to leave the navy, I was unable to carry out my duties. I was advised by my doctor that I could possible be in a wheel chair by the time I was in my thirties. Onboard ship it had become embarrassing, an example would be. When going down below decks, i.e. down the stairs-well I would gradually build up speed, unable to stop until ending up in a pile on the deck below. Another would be. When working topside on deck I would be fine, below decks, well that would be another issue. I would be able to carry on working as normal, a totally different story below decks. As soon as the ship moved I would end up in a heap on the deck. You can imagine this did not inspire confidence in the passengers, by now it was late 1991. I had just be laid off from P&O ferries (Dover) on medical grounds, I was medically discharged from the Merchant Navy.
9
Becalmed - nautical expression meaning no wind, often used as a slang word meaning the length of stay in one place. 10
Variable winds - winds having no defined speed or direction, they keep on changing their direction.
11
kn - the speeds of vessels relative to the fluids in which they travel (boat speeds and air speeds) are measured inkn. The abbreviation kn is preferred by the International Hydrographic Organisation (IHO) over some other common abbreviations being kn OR or kt. 12
Dreadnought Unit - a continuation of a tradition of special hospital care for seafarers dating from 1821. The Seamen’s Hospital Society originally established a hospital on a ship moored at Greenwich and in 1870 it came ashore to the banks of the Thames at Greenwich. In 1986 it moved again to St Thomas’ Hospital.
Townsend/Plan B/ 10
At home to the financial reality meant I should stay at home to look after our children while my wife returned to nursing. I became part of the 1990’s trend, that of becoming a househusband. This was probably the most single hardest thing I had ever had to do in my life but I am proud to say I feel I made a good job of it. I recall a comment from my mother in-law how I should be proud of the way the children are turned out, you know, clean [and ironed] clothes etc. In none medical terms my right knee was facing outwards, very much like a car’s wheel when the tracking is out. The problem started to get worse, it was now affecting my ability to stand or even walk, I was now officially classified as disabled. Often unable to walk from the house to the car parked on the driveway. The pain was so intense that it was also affect my sleep, I would be shaking with pain. I would often be in so much pain that I would go downstairs, albeit very gingerly, the stairs were also becoming very difficult so other good get some sleep. During the day I often found myself just lying around watching daytime TV. After a short while, I am sad to say I was becoming an expert on this. Passage day 3, Friday July 29 2005 00:01hrs (GMT) position 51o19’804N 01o25’247W a very frustrating day trying to get around the headland and into the Bay of Biscay The wind was coming from the Southwest force four to five and at such an angle it was making it difficult to make headway13 , covered 100Nm today. A shooting star at location 48o10’720N 05o52’694W, the first of the trip and what a stunner streaking right across the nights sky going from stern to bow 14. Time to change watch, I lay on my bunk reminiscing.
My doctor was brilliant he would always try the latest pain relieving drugs but to no avail. By mid 1994 I was on a very high doses of Morphine. Although for most of the I would be in no pain however in between one does waring off and the new does taking effect I would often have similar effects of going cold turkey. Hot and cold sweets, terrible shakes, my whole body shaking until the new dose took effect. I soon realised that I needed to keep my mind active otherwise depression was
13
Headway - the forward motion of a vessel.
14
Bow - being the front, the stern being the back of a vessel.
Townsend/Plan B/ 11
not far away. I started an evening class studying a City and Guild course in Amateur Radio. I had been interested in radio since I can remember. One moment I particularly recall, it was just after Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin had walked on the moon (not forgetting Pilot Michael Collins in the Command Module). My mother often found me and my younger brother playing with an old MOD15 radio (a Royal Navy radio set called B40), we had converted our bedroom into a space ship, the radio being the main console with the two of us pretending to be astronauts. It is a shame sometimes that we have to grow up for those, like it is for most of us were our carefree years. Back to the Amateur Radio, some ten months later I successfully passed the course and obtained the Amateur Radio ‘B’ class licence and was issued with the call sign ‘G7PDB’. Several years later and after two attempts I passed the Morse code examination gaining my Amateur Radio ‘A’ class licence with the call sign ‘G0WVA’. Passage day 4, Saturday July 30 2005 19:35hrs (GMT) position 51o19’804N 01o25’247W and wow what a day! A third of the way across the bay and we spotted around sixty porpoises at position 46o31’8824N 006o58’221W, 12:07hrs (GMT). Covered 80Nm today, the weather was clear with force four to five winds from the Southwest. Hand steering was starting to take its toll on us.
A few years later, I was approached by the I.T. teacher at Adam’s (my eldest son) primary school asking if I could help with a computer problem they had. Apparently Adam had mentioned to them that I was good at fixing computers. A short time later I was attending the school weekly, firstly I started taking one or two children and helping them with their I.T. lessons, this rapidly grew to taking a class at a time. I enjoyed the time at the school very much and it was with great sadness that I had to give this up three years later. All the time I was helping out at the school my illness was not getting any better. I had to stop doing all the things I liked to doe hand, now, I lay around indoors resting. Even walking around the house or going up and down the stairs had become so painful. The worst of was shopping, this had become my biggest nightmare. Although I was registered disabled and had a disability parking permit, using it 15
MOD - UK Ministry of Defence.
Townsend/Plan B/ 12
would often cause me the most embarrassment. Most supermarkets have disable parking close to the entrance to make it easier for disabled people to get to and from the shop. The looks and comments I received from other disabled people when I used to park there still vividly remembered. To them my disability was not ‘on show’, I was not in a wheel chair (I declined this several times). Once in the store the next problem began, the average person cannot comprehend the weight and strain of pushing a shopping trolley around the supermarket. The shopping completed and all put away I would have to rest for a day or so waiting for the pain generated from doing the shopping to go away. Unable to sleep, the pain so intense I would be shaking all night. Passage day 5, Sunday July 31 2005 17:10hrs (GMT) position 45o19’884N 008o11’352W another wow day as we spotted [far too many] whales to count, blow wholes everywhere. Six came within twenty metres and gave us a magnificent display. Beautiful, absolutely beautiful, how anyone can hurt these creatures after all they were on this planet before us. Total battery failure during the night, these first five days have been so overcast, so wet, often foggy. The solar panels have been unable to charge the batteries enough, I turned off all unnecessary systems. We covered only 80Nm today, weather was warm and sunny although only force three winds. It’s almost 07:45hrs (GMT) and time to wake woody for his watch, being a little tired I turned in for an hour or so at 08:15hrs (GMT).
1997 and a change of professor at the hospital gave me a glimmer of hope, Professor Fred Heatley 16, one of the best surgeons in the Country (UK) for Orthopaedics. After several examinations over many months he finally came out with what I have wanted to hear for years. Mr Townsend he said, “I might be able to help you”. He had come across a similar situation when a police motorbike rider had an accident. He managed to help him, for the first time I left the hospital with real hope in my heart. Two weeks later at our next meeting the professor said “he had practised on a leg of lamb and a broomstick” and thinks he can fix my problem. Inside he must be 16
Professor Heatly - Now renowned for his work in Polo and travels around the world lecturing.
Townsend/Plan B/ 13
laughing when he saw my face about that comment, I know I still do to this very day. Several months went by until the day had arrived for the operation. I had taken the train from Ramsgate to Tower Bridge (London), the hospital was only a short walk away from the station. Guy’s hospital is a modern hospital however the Dreadnought patients were accommodated in the older Victorian section, but connected to the modern area. The ceilings were high and the wards long. As I walked onto the ward the professor was doing his rounds. He noticed me from the other end of the ward, from the top of his voice said, “Do not worry Mr Townsend I have had another practice with a leg of lamb and a broomstick”. Laughter went around the ward as well as a few puzzled faces. Later that night a ‘nil by mouth’ sign was placed above my bed. To say I was worried was an understatement for this was would the first operation I have ever undergone, my boys were miles away. Once settled in I started to get to know my fellow patient. The day of the operation came, my mind was ticking over with thoughts about what was to follow. I was soon being pushed around the old part of the hospital, into several lifts before entering the newer section, another few lifts, along a corridor leading to the theatre. A few hours later I awoke in recovery ward, although very groggy I heard a distant voice say, “If you feel any pain push the red button it will release a small dose of painkiller” as my hand was guided towards it. I can tell you, I was pushing that big red button until it nearly broke for the pain suddenly released throughout my body was like nothing I had ever felt before. It was as someone was sawing off my leg, there and then. To me it appeared that the drugs were having little if no effect at all in overcoming the pain, somehow I drifted back to sleep. I awoke sometime later to find myself back on the ward I had departed hours before. I looked around then noticed something strange, my right foot was laying ninty degrees to the left, lying under my left foot! Had they turned my leg around too far, or was I dreaming? Later I was reassured that during the operation and once they had cut through the bone the right leg ‘just fell’ to the right angle, thirty three degrees! That night proved to be very difficult for me, the doctors had not taken in to
Townsend/Plan B/ 14
consideration that I had been on Morphine for a long time. My body was unaffected by the levels I was now on. An expression used often would be ‘cold turkey’, my body was in unbelievable pain. I just lay there shaking all over, sweating, and constantly moving every part of my body. After several hours, the nurses managed to get hold of a doctor who increased the morphine levels. I was fine a few hours later. Passage day 6, Monday 1 August 2005 22:45hrs (GMT) position 44o20’700N 009o15’317W made little progress today due to light winds from the Southwest, the direction we need to go. Only 91.08Nm covered still that’s a total of 1,006.31Nm so far and in only seven days. Barometer17
reading1024mb, steady with an air
temperature of 24.7oC. The day started well, glorious sunshine. More whales sighted today although three hundred metres away. Later woody started designing his vampire from a Goth book he has. Afternoon quote from woody “I feel like getting my phone out and playing some games”. I have been too busy keeping an eye on woody, I spend most of the night’s awake, it’s starting to catch up on me now. Woody is a really nice lad but needs telling two or three times to do anything, he will always put things off. I had given him a few seamanship books to read weeks, ago however he would rather read fantasy books instead. Prior to this voyage woody had no previous sailing experience, we had an agreement that I would teach him sailing so long as he made an effort himself. I think he will have a shock one day when the reality of life kicks in. Midday and I am just sitting topside reflecting.
A few days after the operation I was ready to go home. My original plan was to return the same way I arrived however they refused to release me unless I was either picked up or arranged for a taxi. With great reluctance I telephoned home to arrange a lift back. The reception on my return from my boys was wonderful but from my wife a slighter cooler reaction. Cooler! there were items in the fridge warmer. My technically broken, only being held together by two screws just below the hip joint I therefore had to be very careful how I walked so as not to bang the leg. Walking up or down the stairs was impossible at the moment. Once my boys were in bed I was left alone downstairs hopping along trying to rearrange furniture to form 17
Barometer - a device for measuring atmospheric pressure, usually calibrated in millibars.
Townsend/Plan B/ 15
some sort of bed. Forty minutes later I had managed to put two chairs together, I caught a few hours sleep. The following morning my wife took the boys to school on her way to work while I was left to experience the latest craze at the time. The joy of daytime television kept me company for a few weeks until I was able to move around a little more. Several months later I was out walking [on my crutches] in the park, it was a good time. Time spent with my boys was always something special to me. As I walked, well waddling really my youngest son, Billy said “chase me dad”, I keenly threw the crutches aside and tried to run after my son, within six steps I has ran in a complete circle. I obviously needed more practice at walking again. Passage day 7, Tuesday 2 August 2005 00:22hrs (GMT) position 42o58’452N 009o15’444W at last we are off the coast of Spain, spotted more porpoises along the way. We managed to cover 77.6Nm today, not too bad considering the very light winds of around 6kn. Will hope to get out into the Atlantic tonight. Battery problem ongoing. Becalmed again this morning, I managed to get some sleep.
It had now been a year since the operation, I was becoming more mobile. I began to realise that I would soon be able to return to work so I took the opportunity to enrol on a computer hardware course at a nearby training centre. They specialise in retraining people who or who were looking for career change. A few months after completing the course I took up employment with a computer company who were subcontacted to work at the Eurotunnel site in Folkestone. I stayed there for the nest six years. Towards the later half of my time there my mother became ill. I took a few days off and travelled up north to visit. The doctors at this time were unsure of the cause of her condition and were running tests. Later during our stay it became apparent that she was terminally ill with liver failure. I telephoned home nightly. During out stay we managed to arrange for her to be transferred to a London hospital when she was stabilised enough to be moved. We all returned home for a few days later, we visited her in London daily. During her stay there we (my brother, sister and I) took it in turns attending to our mother needs, we were given the chance to care
Townsend/Plan B/ 16
for her during her last few hours. I was taking a break outside in the corridor just around the corner from her room when my wife arrived. She advised me that she wanted a divorce. There was little I could say, I wanted to say “girl, your timing sucks” but I did not, I wanted to be with my mother for the last time. She passed away that evening. Back home the only comfort received were from my boys. After the funeral service everybody came back to our house for the wake. As one could expect I was not fully functioning, running on autopilot really, my wife all though putting on a show as being a good hostess did little else. I sat there, subdued. A few days later she asked me to move out. The weeks went by as the situation between us deteriorated. She advised me that she had started looking for somewhere else to live and that I could keep the house. She would move out taking the children with her. My reply was no, they should stay their the last thing the children wanted during this time was to live somewhere strange. Let them stay in their home, sleep in their own beds I thought to myself. I would like to think my motives were wholesome and pure but I cannot, deep down and although when she had said when asking for the divorce she said there was know one else, I knew there was. Why should my children go live elsewhere, they should stay there. Selfish view perhaps but I meant well. Time soon passes at sea and it is not long before I am on watch once more. Passage day 8, Wednesday 3 August 2005 08:00hrs (GMT) position 41o33’603N 011o14’899W nearly lost Pinta tonight 108Nm off Portugal. Sailing mode out, survival mode in! What a difference a day makes as a stormed developed, it started with winds force five gusting six later developing to force eight to nine (around 40kn). We were nearly turned over a few times, although I did not want to panic woody I thought, this was it! We had some near misses, I decided to drop the hanky of a Genoa and deploy the sea anchor18 . Deployed at 00:15hrs (GMT) on the August 4. During the 18
Sea anchor - they come in may styles but basically a parachute style device deployed at the front of a vessel to help keep her bow’s into the waves.
Townsend/Plan B/ 17
night under the sea anchor we drifted only 13Nm. It had saved our lives! The wind was not the problem, the sea was. Here off the Portugal end of The Bay of Biscay, it has well deserved reputation as the sea rolls in from the Atlantic hitting the continental shelve. This can cause unusual waves and in our case we had eight metre waves coming on our Port and Starboard sides with what seamed like fifteen metre or more waves coming over our stern, in reality they were only around eight metres. To start with, it was not too much of a problem, I set the sails accordingly, and we stayed ahead of them. In these confused sea’s we soon found ourselves being ‘kissed’ by the waves, they appeared to becoming from all sides. The result, Pinta would be lifted us up some five metres or so then as suddenly as they came through the waves disappeared leaving us to drop not only the five metres or so we had just gained in height but another good five metres or so into the trough19! An almighty bang as Pinta with her beamy bottom found sea once more among the trough of the weaves, then as suddenly as we landed Pinta was lifted once more, repeated time and time again. As the sun started to set the larger waves running at our stern started to break, collapsing closer and closer to our stern. At first this was not a problem as we could out run them however that did not last too long. Pinta was loosing this particular race as the waves came one after another, catching us. So much so that by 21:00hrs (GMT) it was getting a little too interesting, the waves were now not so friendly, a following sea was developing. I found my feet were more often more under water. Pinta sailing down the crest of a wave, holding on to the steering wheel I found myself leaning backwards [about 45 degrees] to remain upright. Shortly they became friendly once more this time however Pinta was being pooped20. I woke woody, ordering him topside, lifejacket on, harness on and clipped on. Had he remained below in his cabin and we were pooped and turned, I doubt if he would have ever made it out should the worse-case scenario happen. The situation carried on degenerating, with winds now gusting fortykn, after nearly being pooped three times in a row the bow starting to dig into the waves
19
Trough - the section which lies below the undisturbed position is called the trough. Basically the opposite of the crest. 20
Pooped - when waves start to break over the stern or back of a vessel.
Townsend/Plan B/ 18
ahead of her, I decided enough was enough for if this carried on I could see us loosing Pinta. I could think of no other few words to describe the way I was thinking than those taken from the ‘Hornblower’ book – ‘Mr Midshipman’ “It was a black moment; he looked around at the unfriendly sea for inspiration and support, and found neither” My thoughts were; ‘Sailing mode out, Survival mode in. I sent woody forward with the sea anchor line so to pass it out though the Port fairlead 21 but not deploying it, the line was then fed back into the cockpit , around the Port aft cleat22 then passed around the Port cockpit main winch. In these conditions the less time, you spend outside the cockpit the better. The sea anchor was now set up so we could deploy it from within the cockpit when needed. Twenty minutes passed, we dropped the sails and deployed the sea anchor letting out around five times the vessels length, i.e. fifty metres. The effect was immediately felt as Pinta stabilised dramatically compared to before the deployment as she started drifting with the sea’s, which, for most of the time we found ourselves moving along at the same pace as the waves. Passage day 9, Thursday 4 August 2005 23:05hrs (GMT) position 40o20’618N 010o35’762W recovered the sea anchor at 07:51hrs (GMT) only to find it ripped to shreds, totally useless. A 3m sea swell running today, force five winds still from the Southwest later decreasing force three. A slow but productive sail covering 100Nm, barometer reading 1015mb. The day after the night before although how my arms do ache, tired from all that steering yesterday. Reflecting on the state of the sea anchor reminds one as to the power of nature. I do not believe in a god as such although I do believe there is ‘something’. I know that if it exists they (it) were looking after us last night. Trying to get back to normal today, what ever that may be, it’s a struggle. Still only getting an average of three hours sleep in a twenty four hour period, I still have to keep an eye on woody, he’s a really nice guy but not really cut out for life onboard. Perhaps I might have to review our agreement. Silly things like opening a can of corned beef, using two thirds of it then placing the open tin in the fridge. Ouch! We are now well in to our watch system, everyday blends into another. I lay below listening to music. 21
Fairlead - a fitting used to alter the direction of a line.
22
Cleat - a deck fitting of metal or wood, having opposing horns around which a line is secured.
Townsend/Plan B/ 19
Mid 1998 I had found a house, well a bungalow and not too far away but far enough. Once moved in my boys visited regularly although at this time in my life when one should have money I did not, I lived sparsely for a while. I felt sorry for my boy’s for I could not furnish the house, as I would like. It would take time. I had been ill for many years and having only recently returned to work I needed to build up my bank balance. I throw myself into work, arriving a few hours earlier than I needed too, leaving many hours after everybody else had left. This carried on for several years, it had an unexpected side effect, I was promoted to the onsite Technical Team Leader. As time went on I found I was spending more and more time each day trying to keep on top of new technologies and less and less time in the real world. I felt I needed a change not only from the work environment but my health had stared to worry me, I had been getting some pain in my left knee very similar to that which effected my right knees years before. I felt that I had a small window of opportunity to do something, just in case my medical problems should return. There are many people I admire form the world of sailing, I took inspiration from a few words used as their saying ‘Just do it’, so, I did. The decision was made. After chilling out below decks to some music it was soon time to change over the watch. Passage day 10, Friday 5 August 2005 10:55hrs (GMT) position 39o39’318N 009o57’509W drifting in light fog off the coast of Portugal, wind light and very cyclonic23. To date we have covered 1,351.02Nm, an average of 122.82Nm per day, not too bad considering we have been becalmed for about nineteen hours in total, then hove to 24 during the storm. Becalmed once more I tried a little fishing but with no luck. The weather is very hot at around 35.4oC Had to a word with woody again today about the lack of interest in carrying out his work list. Nothing heavy, we had six or so flies around the galley. I said to woody what’s the best way of getting rid of these flies, his reply was “put up some flypaper”
23 24
Cyclonic - meaning that the wind is changing direction and strength in an unpredictable way.
‘hove to’ - when a headsail is backed and often under shortened mainsail, the rudder then being so placed to point the bow (front) of the vessel towards the wind thus reducing the way through the water. Often done in foul weather or to effect repairs onboard
Townsend/Plan B/ 20
My thought was okay, where is the nearest ‘Tesco’, I felt like saying ‘it’s ,351.02Nm behind us’ but instead I said “why don’t we just clean the mess up”. Woody replied “okay, I’ll do it in the morning”. Once again I had to clean ship. I had a little chat with woody about it afterwards, let’s see what happens? We are now off ‘Ericera’ at position 39o08’089N 010o12’189W, some 72.28Nm off shore and drifting nicely, I turn in. Laying on my bunk my thoughts returned to when I first started sailing.
I can still remember the very first day, I was twelve years of age, before that time I had no previous sailing experiences although I had always loved being by the sea, the sound of the waves breaking upon the shore, the peace and tranquillity in what I like to call ‘natures music’ gave to me. It was during one of my cycle rides around the Royal 25 harbour Ramsgate that I noticed a new arrival, an old wooden ship with a rather, well to me at that age, this elderly man was working on the decking. I was fascinated by what he was doing, he was laying strands of Oakum26 , around 3cm in length into the gap between the deck planking. Then coming slightly back over the lay before then, laying half over that, half on its own. A metal tool, rather like a large faced coal chisel was placed on top the strands, then struck with a mallet. Once an area was completed, molten pitch was poured into the grove. This process gives the neat black rows you see on ships in between the planking the purpose of which is to waterproof the deck. I later discover this was called 'corking' and although at the time I did not know what it was I would spend many years later in my life ‘corking’. After sometime watching I approach him asking could I come aboard? He welcomed me and we started talking, sometime later and quiet how it happened I cannot recall, it was agreed that I could help working voluntary every Saturday. So every Saturday morning I would cycle there and help out, trying to learning the basic skills required, the art if you like of maintaining these beautiful wooden sailing ships. 25
Royal Harbour - given it’s title in 1821 by George IV, who was more than impressed with the towns hospitality when he sailed from Ramsgate to Hanover and back, it is the only ‘Royal’ harbour in the UK. 26
Oakum - there are many variations of Oakum. Tarred oakum that is made by using the jute or hemp fibres of old ropes, there is also white oakum. White oakum is created with the use of hemp fibres that have not been woven into ropes and is not impregnated with the pine tar that was used in many instances to make the oakum resistant to water and the elements.
Townsend/Plan B/ 21
Once the deck was finished we started on the hull, working from a small tender. Several weeks passed before I enquired whether the tender had a mast and sails. To my surprise I was shown an old mast and some rather dilapidated sails. That Monday after school, and with great enthusiasm I visited the local library looking for a book about sailing, with this in hand I ran home as quickly as I could and started to read. The following Saturday when I had finished my mornings work I managed to step the mast and rig the sails. With great anticipation I rechecked that my lifejacket was correctly secured, stepped aboard, let go the painter27 and off I went! My first voyage however did not go as planned for within several seconds the dinghy had done a complete circle, I was back where I started. Several hours later and more gybes28 than I can recall I was sailing like an old hand, well, sort off. This inspired me to take up sailing and later that year when I started secondary school I quickly enrolled in the school sailing club, throughout the winter I learnt how to strip down, repair the schools Mirror dinghies then, when the sailing season approached we took them down to the dinghy park at the Broadstairs sailing club. The following Wednesday and indeed every Wednesday thereafter I would catch a bus to Broadstairs, rig the dinghies and sail or race around Viking Bay. I also joined the local Sea Cadet Corps unit, this was a very good decision for not only did I learn the theory of seamanship but also attending nearly every sailing course going for the next five years. Sailing on a range of vessels form dinghies to Tall Ships and clocking up some 4,000 Nautical miles. Later I become a RYA dinghy instructor. I loved my time spent there, we had a mixture of children from all backgrounds. My memories about this time are some of the best I have. While still in the Sea Cadet Corps aged eighteen I actually thought the opportunity to achieve my dream of sailing around the world had come to fruition, A Tall Ship visited Ramsgate and was seeking crew, I eagerly signed on and spent the next six months getting her ready. Alas, we only got as far as Weymouth, but that’s a 27 28
Painter - a rope used for a mooring, particularly on a dinghy.
Gybe - to change course when sailing downwind so that the stern of the boat passes through the wind and the sail swings across to the other side.
Townsend/Plan B/ 22
whole other story. Passage day 11, Saturday 6 August 2005 06:38hrs (GMT) position 39o08’075N 010o12’141W It’s a beautiful morning but once more becalmed making only 33Nm since yesterday. Late afternoon around 200Nm off the Straight of Gibraltar the wind picked up slightly, now moving slowly. 23:20hrs (GMT) position 38o39’511N 009o59’029W woken by Woody trying to hoist the mainsail. Pinta surrounded by blanket fog,I turned the radar on as well as the engine (as a precaution). Later it developed into another beautiful day, very warm 34.2oC alas no wind. Becalmed 25Nm off ‘Cascais’. Some very large dolphins past us today, they did not play much though. Thinking of my family, my boys, brother, sister & father. Guess I am a little subdued tonight. Passage day 12, Sunday 7 August 2005 00:48hrs (GMT) position 38o31’696N 009o56’883W due to fog and the TSS29 being only a few miles away plus the amount of traffic have the engine on tick over so to maintain steerage way. That was to ensure should the very flaky winds decide to decrease further I would still maintain my radar profile, plus this also helps to recharge the flat batteries especial as I have so many systems on at present. Still off ‘Cascais’ wind Southeast 6kn with blanked fog. Woody stayed on watch an extra one and half hours while I monitored the situation via the radar. Within a short while Woody started making silly mistakes through tiredness so I sent to bed although he did not want to go 01:27hrs (GMT). To break the boredom of sitting here a thought come into my mind, why are peas round when beans are not? Passage day 13, Monday 8 August 2005 10:54hrs (GMT) position 36o47’862N 010o26’489W once again becalmed, the wind picked up at 13:14hrs (GMT) although cyclonic for the next few hours. It finally settled from the Southwest force three to four. Weather, a sunny day with light clouds. An uneventful day really although the email is now working. Becalmed once more meanwhile Woody caught a fish, a small blue fin tuna of about 4lb in old money. It stunk the boat out for hours. Woody, although an angler he has never gutted a fish so I explained how to do it. Passage day 14, Tuesday 9 August 2005 19:30hrs (GMT) position 34o23’890N 29
TSS - or Traffic Separation Scheme is a traffic-management route-system ruled by the International Maritime Organisation or IMO. The traffic-lanes (or clear-ways) indicate the general direction of the ships in that zone; ships navigating within a TSS all sail in the same direction or they cross the lane in an angle as close to 90 degrees as possible.
Townsend/Plan B/ 23
010o02’267W made good progress today only 338Nm to go to the Canaries. Wind force three to four from the Southwest, weather sunny with a few clouds. Batteries low again so running the engine for a few hours to top them up. The food and water supplies are holding up well, the aft tank is still full whilst the forward tank is half full. Really missing my boys today I have sent a few emails but nothing back and for the first time I will not be around on Adams’s birthday, he’s 19 now. I love all my boys so much. Onboard it’s been a quiet day with light winds and sunshine. I guess I’m a bit low in spirits today. Passage day 15, Wednesday 10 August 2005 06:50hrs (GMT) we are becalmed once again but this time during the night, as there was no shipping around I left the navigation lights on and turned in for while, radar guard alarms 30 also set. Winds of 6kn from the Nor’West and a barometer reading of 1015mb, rising slowly. Missing my three boys’ I do not like being away from them. Now I call them my boy’s but really, they are young men now. I’m so proud of them. Adam is nineteen now (I missed his birthday) and doing well at university as well as at work. Harry is seventeen now and doing well in school whilst Billy is fourteen, he also is doing very well at school. It’s been seven years since their mother asked me to leave. That day was the worst of my life leaving them behind. The second worst day was just two weeks ago. Leaving them again to say I have a few tears in my eyes would be an understatement. The weather is sunny and hot 34.4oC. Only 298Nm to the Canaries. Passage day 16, Thursday 11 August 2005 19:00hrs (GMT) position 32o07’891N 011o06’290W making up for time slowly with winds of 6 to 8kn. A beautiful day although not for sailing, barometer reading 1015mb, steady. Weather sunny and you guessed it hot at 35oC and calm. Not a lot happening today although the wind increased later to 25kn. Put two reefs in for the night. Canaries 230Nm away. What away to start the day as another shooting star but this time stretching across the whole sky, the time is now 01:40hrs (GMT) at position 32o44’600N 011o22’140W. Feel a little better today, still thinking of my boy’s but a little better. Time is going really slow here, so close but so far we have covered 130Nm with little wind. Too much time to think!
30
Radar guard alarms - rings circling the vessel on the radar screen at a given distance, i.e. 3 & 6Nm. Any object entering that area sets off an audible alarm.
Townsend/Plan B/ 24
Passage day 17, Friday 12 August 2005 23:10hrs (GMT) position 30o44’737N 010o39’724W wind around 25kn during the night reducing to 6kn by the morning. Still on a heading of 210M. It’s been a very slow day, looks like will arrive in the Canaries around 18:00hrs (GMT) tomorrow. The night of the shooting stars, too many to count through the night. It’s now 11:06hrs (GMT) and I have just woken up after doing the morning watch (04:00 07:59), I tried to connect and download email but gave up on that idea due to bad atmospherics. We are looking forward to arriving in the Canaries tomorrow. Passage day 18, Saturday 13 August 2005 15:16hrs (GMT) land spotted, hope it’s the Canaries, the original plan was to go to Puerto Naos however now its dark I will head for Puerto Calero where it will be easier to berth at night. Wind 6 to 8kn from the Nor’East, barometer reading 1016mb, rising slowly. We covered 75Nm today arriving in Puerto Calero [on the Island of Lanzarote] at 22:20hrs (GMT), engine off at 22:30hrs (GMT). A passage total of 1,966.75Nm.