Issue 13 - Fashion by Salient

ISSUE 13

EN I L A T

N SHIO

CONTENTS 04—10

12—13

14—15

News

Aotearoa’s Best Dressed Rats (Feature)

When in Wellington (Feature)

16—19

20—21

22—27

Guide To Second Hand Shopping (Feature)

Centrefold

Lookbook

28—29

30—31

32—38

Covering Up

Not Your Nana’s Crochet

Culture & Entertainment

About Us Salient is published by, but remains editorially independent from, the Victoria University of Wellington Students’ Association (VUWSA). Salient is funded in part by VUWSA through the Student Services Levy. Salient is a member of the Aotearoa Student Press Association (ASPA). The views expressed in Salient do not necessarily reflect those of the Editor, VUWSA, or the University. Complaints Complaints regarding the material published in Salient should first be brought to the Editor in writing (editor@salient.org.nz). If not satisfied with the response, complaints should be directed to the Media Council (info@mediacouncil.org.nz).

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An Ode To My New Balances EDITORIAL The saying “I’m too poor to buy cheap shoes” is probably what drove me to buy my first pair of New Balances at the age of 16. Up until then, all of my shoes had been from The Warehouse and Number One Shoes - cheap but breakable. I needed a shoe to see me through the years, but I didn’t want to partake in the rat race that was Nike v Adidas and Converse v Vans. Humble and unassuming, a pair of light gray 530s sung out to me from the shelf of my local Sterling Sports. I loved the chunky-dad-shoe aesthetic and how they made my big feet look even bigger. New Balances are comfortable as hell - I’ve never had to break in a pair because they’ve been perfect from the get go. My collection now consists of 237s, 520s, 530s, 547s, and 550s. My New Balances have seen me through a lot; bodycon dresses and skinny jeans, Peter Pan collars and the recent resurgence of Y2K fashion. I had to be talked out of wearing a pair under my sari for graduation. I’m not a sneakerhead, nor will I ever be. I don’t speak ‘shoe’. But my loyalty towards New Balance is unshakeable. Do you have a brand that has your unwavering life-long loyalty? What did they do to earn it? In 2016, New Balance earned my loyalty because they weren’t considered ‘cool’ back then. I wore my New Balances for me, because they made me laugh and stopped me from taking myself too seriously. Now in 2022: Jack Harlow is a New Balance ambassador, the 550s are trending, and their Aimé Leon Dore’s collab has streetwear enthusiasts drooling. Steven Smith, the “godfather of dad shoes” and the designer behind iconic NB silhouettes like the 547s and 1500s, has just been appointed the Head of Donda Industrial Design. That’s the 20 year trend cycle for you; fashion is cyclical and trends come back around once every 20 years. New Balance’s name has been drawn again. My sneakers are back in vogue and that’s a reality I’ll just have to deal with. This Fashion Issue delves into sustainable consumption, slow fashion, op-shopping, dressing modestly, and how living in Wellington changes our

personal styles, and so much more. Check out the lookbook (pg. 22-27) which explores Wellington fashion and celebrating local businesses. In this week’s news section, we catch you up on what’s happened over the mid year break: Roe v Wade was devastatingly overturned, Paul Eagle started a dodgy campaign to run for mayor, Re-O Week finally happened, and new strains of Covid-19 have put more pressure on our health system. Most notably, Salient broke the news that our new Vice Chancellor-elect “was a white man - shock horror!” The good people of the internet were divided on whether his race and gender were important, and Kelly Mitchell breaks down why his appointment is a disappointment. Hope Tri Two treats you well, e hoa mā! Stay warm, stay healthy, stay fashionable.

Ngā manaakitanga, JANHAVI GOSAVI (SHE/HER)

www.salient.org.nz

EXCLUSIVE: Green Party Youth

Wing Set to Hold Vote of No-Confidence in Co-Leader James Shaw

Words by Azaria Howell (she/her)

James Shaw’s days as Green Party co-leader may be numbered. Salient obtained a report from an official Young Greens Facebook Group stating that a noconfidence vote will be held at the next Party AGM on July 23-24, potentially prompting a leadership challenge. The Young Greens’ report stated “a lot of us are unhappy by [Shaw’s] leadership,” adding it was “about time we organise and kōrero to change our co-leadership.” Another member agreed, saying they “love Marama [Davidson’s] work and would love a coleader on par with her.” James Shaw has received criticism from left-wing members of the Party for not doing enough as the Minister for Climate Change and Associate Minister for the Environment. Salient spoke to a Party member who said that the no-confidence vote would “send a staunch message to the party about becoming too safe and centrist.”

The member added “The ideal scenario would be [if] everyone voted to re-open nominations and therefore another person may feel better placed to put their hand up. If we were wanting to stick with having a male leader I know many people would love for Teanau [Tuiono] to step into the position, but he’s unlikely to do so while James the incumbent continues to run.” Other Party members said that they’d like to see a non-male take Shaw’s spot. The Green Party dropped their rule requiring one co-leader to be male earlier this year, giving opportunities for gender diverse people to lead the party. Shaw previously faced a leadership challenge in 2021, with his opponent stating that the Green Party were “Labour’s little helper.” Shaw received almost unanimous support. However, with growing unrest from the youth faction of the Party, his days as coleader may be numbered.

Wellingtonians Protest To Support Abortion Rights Words by Azaria Howell (she/her)

Content warning: this article discusses abortion. With Roe v Wade being overturned by the United States Supreme Court, the right to an abortion in the US is no longer federally protected. This prompted concerns from Aotearoa that the same rights could be at risk in our backyard. Thousands took to the streets of Wellington, marching from Civic Square to the American Embassy, to protest the court decision. The unified message was that everyone deserves the right to choose what happens to their body. Approximately 1,000 Wellingtonians gathered on July 1 in support of abortion rights, with signs reading “No forced pregnancy” and “Pro-Life is a lie, they don’t care if we die.” Rally organiser Madeleine Petersen-Gould told Salient that the Supreme Court decision made her “very upset.” Petersen-Gould added, “abortion is healthcare and people will die in various ways if we don’t have safe access to it. Everyone has the right to their bodily autonomy, that includes removing a pregnancy if you don’t want it.”

When asked her message to the Supreme Court, Petersen-Gould said, “F**k the Supreme Court and get your laws off of our bodies.” New Zealand’s abortion laws changed in 2020, removing abortion from the Crimes Act 1961. The law change allows anyone who is less than 20 weeks pregant to access abortion services, with abortions permitted after this timeframe if deemed clinically viable by a medical professional. A majority of 35 National Party MPs voted against the reforms in 2020, alongside 9 Labour MPs and 7 NZ First MPs. A year later, when Christopher Luxon was elected National leader, he stated that abortion was a form of murder. Luxon’s pro-life views have recently resurfaced, with some constituents stating they are “scared” that Luxon would reverse abortion laws if National is in Government. National responded to these claims in a statement saying, “this issue was settled in the last parliament [during 2019-2020] and it won’t be changing under a National government.”

Tutors Bargaining For More Than Pocket Money Words by Beth Mountford (she/her)

The Victoria University of Wellington (VUW) Tutor’s Collective is aiming for a substantive pay increase to match inflation during this collective bargaining period after “appalling” results last year. During the last collective bargaining period in 2021, tutors were the only group of staff at the University who didn’t receive a pay rise. Instead, they each received a $150 lump sum payment which was only paid out to tutors who were employed in Trimester Two of that year. Nicki Wilford, the Tertiary Education Union organiser says that there is a historical misconception that “people tutor to get pocket money.” The Tutors’ Agreement states a minimum pay for two bands: one if you are at undergrad level and another if you have completed a degree. Wilford says the issue with these pay bands is that a tutor may be in their sixth trimester of tutoring and still be at the beginning of the pay band. “Some schools are quite bad at [acknowledging pay

increases] and others are better but it’s not uniform across the University at all,” she said. This year, collectives from seven out of eight NZ universities are entering their bargaining period at the same time. Wilford says that “if the employer doesn’t come back with something decent, industrial action will be discussed across sites.” The VUW Tutors’ Collective is represented by the Tertiary Education Union, but is separate from the academic research and general staff collective. “[This] defeats the point of a collective agreement, which is to use your strength in numbers to actually have leverage when you’re negotiating,” says Dani Pickering, who tutors in Social and Cultural Studies, and Sociology. Pickering says that while they spent their first year “trying to figure out how to join the union,” it is now easier than ever. The Tutors’ Network is free to join if you earn under $15k per annum and are on a casual employment contract. www.salient.org.nz

Eagle’s Political DoubleDipping Leaves Mayoral Contender in a Pickle Words by Ethan Manera (he/him)

Labour MP Paul Eagle’s Mayoral bid has had a wobbly start following his decision to remain as MP for Rongotai while campaigning. Taking three months leave from parliament, Eagle, who previously served on the Wellington City Council from 2010 to 2017, is facing criticism for leaving constituents MP-less while keeping his old gig to fall back on. This is ruffling the feathers of his Parliament and Council colleagues.

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Eagle pledged to donate his Parliamentary salary to charity during the campaign. If elected, he would leave Parliament, prompting a by-election in Rongotai. He was initially tight-lipped about his mayoral ambitions despite his intentions being called “Wellington’s worst kept secret”. Eagle has also been criticised for using Parliament funding to promote a “suspicious” survey asking Wellingtonians their opinions on local government issues, as well as a dispute with the Council surrounding displaying billboards early allegedly against election rules. Current Mayor Andy Foster called Eagle’s decision to remain MP while campaigning “wrong on so many levels” and said that he “would be concerned for Wellington” if Eagle succeeded in his mayoral bid. “He’s been invisible as a local MP,” Foster said and claimed Eagle should apologise to his constituents after previously pledging not to run. Mayoral contender, Tory Whanau has also called for Eagle’s resignation as MP saying it would be “more appropriate” due to him leaving a “gap in his electorate.” “He’s had his time, he’s not the right leadership to take Wellington forward [...] I know I can do a better job than him,” Whanau said. Parliamentary opponents also attacked his campaign, with National’s Nicola Willis saying, “he’s a nice guy” but could’ve done “a lot more” for his electorate adding Labour has “taken Wellington for granted.” David Seymour said, “he has his beak in two birdbaths,” adding “a real Eagle would feather one nest at a time.” Eagle declined to comment, his spokesperson saying they’re “not sure what the controversy is.”

85 Ghuznee St, Te Aro, Wellington www.splendid.nz @splendid.nz

OPINION:

Vice-Chancellor Appointment A Missed Opportunity Words by Kelly Mitchell (any/all; Ngaati Maahanga) On 22 June, the university announced Professor Nic Smith’s appointment as Vice-Chancellor of Te Herenga Waka—Victoria University of Wellington. Smith replaces Grant Guilford, whose departure left us feeling hopeful for a new VC who would lead the University to a more equitable and modern position. They would hopefully prioritise better provisions for student finances, accessible classes and campuses, and anti-racist agendas. Interest sparked as to whether University Council, the body in charge of appointing the VC, would use this opportunity to give effect to its Te Tiriti o Waitangi obligations. This would look like employing an appropriately qualified chief executive to lead the implementation of Te Tiriti, tikanga and reo Māori across the University. The University’s Strategic Plan places us as a globalcivic university after all. What better way is there to achieve that than to centre Te Tiriti in everything we do? It is easy to idealise our university as having a better connection to and understanding of our history, te taiao, and our place in Wellington when it is said to be a true “global-civic university with our marae at our heart.” With such potential, our university community let out an unsurprising sigh at the appointment of Smith. It felt like the University was asking us to expect more of the same. Nothing in Smith’s work history lends itself to ambitions of equality, Te Tiriti justice, disability support, anti-racism, or anything else of the like. After talking to peers at Auckland University who worked and studied beneath him, this feeling of ‘meh’ is justified. I am not judging a book by its cover in this instance.

Strategic Plan, which are supposed to function as guides for the appointment process. Their work is also subject to the Education and Training Act 2020 which, under s 281(b), includes Te Tiriti obligations. As a result of this, the University Council adopted a Te Tiriti Statute in 2019. Despite their own policies and the Strategic Plan prioritising Te Tiriti o Waitangi, the University Council failed to do so through this appointment. Going forward from this announcement, we should be questioning whether Council in its current form is appropriately qualified in structure and membership to make these decisions. I would suggest that the reason Te Tiriti and other equity issues were not prioritised is because Council itself is not structured in a way that prioritises those issues. Council is required to comprise twelve members of which at least two are staff, at least two are students, at least two are Māori, at least two are Vic graduates, and at least five are women. There is no provision for any other representation, no requirement for Māori staff or student representation, and no requirement for Te Tiriti training. Council is not set up to be able to make headway on the Te Tiriti goals it sets for itself because, not only is Te Tiriti not reflected in its make up, there is also no requirement for its members to understand what Te Tiriti is. Instead of a Te Tiriti leader, the University Council has appointed a VC who reflects the Council. I suppose it would be intimidating for the Council to manage someone on a Te Tiriti mission when they themselves do not have experience in that area.

This is not to say that Smith is a bad guy. He is kind, intelligent and professional. But it does beg the question as to what University Council was aiming for when they decided to appoint him. Surely our collectively held ambitions for change would have been too loud for Council to have ignored them, unless the Council chambers are more of an ivory tower than I had imagined. Did they hear us and just cast our hopes aside, deeming them unimportant or too ambitious? Or did they look at all the VC appointments made over the last 125 years and say “let’s not fix what isn’t broken,” accepting that we cannot pursue anything more? It is apparent that the issue here is not Smith but the Council. The primary duty of the University Council is to employ and manage the Vice Chancellor. They draft both independent policies and the University’s

Source: Ethan Manera

www.salient.org.nz

Mika’s Minute Metlink Future Fares Review Words by Mika Hervel (he/him)

The Greater Wellington Regional Council is in the process of reviewing public transport fare prices and is asking for people to pitch in with their thoughts. This consultation is open until 5pm Friday 15 July. It is a great opportunity to engage with local government about how much public transport should cost. This consultation is part of a larger Public Transport Plan which the Council adopted last year. The Plan will inform how public transport is priced, designed and delivered over the next decade. Before making changes to how much public transport costs, the Council is keen to hear what people think about their proposed changes. Greater Wellington Regional Council wants to introduce discounts for off-peak public transport use to incentivise people to travel at these times. They are proposing a further 35% off-peak discount to eligible tertiary students, community service cardholders, accessibility concession holders, and school-aged children. This 35% is deducted from the remaining fare after other concessions have been resolved. For example, if you are a community service cardholder and you are paying $1 for the bus, you can get 50% off (from central Government), making your fare 50 cents. The 35% concession is a further deduction leaving you with a 33-cent fare. The Council is also considering introducing a ‘fare capping’ system, where you receive an extra 35% discount on every trip after your first two in a day, or every trip after your first eight in a week. When you submit, it might be worth considering whether you think the off-peak concession of 35%

is enough to incentivise you to ride off-peak. Peak times are between 7am-9am in the morning and 3pm6.30pm in the evening. Is travel outside of those times viable for you to get where you need to go? When considering who gets this extra 35% concession, think about whether only eligible tertiary students should get the discounts. ‘Eligible tertiary students’ means full-time students and excludes parttime students. Some part-time students cannot study full-time because, among other reasons, they need to work or look after their families. Is it fair that they be excluded? Most tertiary students are also community service cardholders and are eligible for multiple discounts, some off-peak and some on-peak. If you find yourself confused and worried that budgeting for transport will become a mathematical nightmare because you are eligible for multiple different concessions, feeding back to the Council that the proposed system is too complicated could be worthwhile. Perhaps it would be simpler and more attractive if it were free? To submit your views on this consultation, you can take a survey on the council’s website following this link: https://haveyoursay.gw.govt.nz/futurefaresreview. Alternatively, you can write your thoughts in a document and email them to: futurefares@gw.govt.nz

O-week? No-week? No Refunds. Words by Jamie Clumpas (they/them)

VUWSA’s ‘2.O-Week’ promises plenty of fun, but refund policies of the now mid-holiday event are out of step with industry standard & the law, leaving students short changed. Many first year students will remember how the hype train was well and truly derailed by Covid-19 when university first kicked off this year, the most disappointing moment of all being the indefinite postponement of VUWSA’s usual O-Week festivities. However, all hope was not lost. The replacement ‘No-Week’ promised to bring the usual energy into the first week of the second trimester. An apparent start date of Monday 11 July was even printed on student calendars to keep our hope of a party alive. This is why many students were surprised when VUWSA announced in early May that our new ‘2.O-Week’ would run early — July 7-11, squarely in the second week of the mid-year break. Yes, the same mid year-break in which most students return home or otherwise leave Wellington, with no option for refunds. The 2.O-Week dates have proven prohibitive to a substantial number of ticket holders. First year student Dani Turner said “I’m actually going back home to Christchurch over [2.O-Week] because I didn’t think anything was happening, and now I feel pissed off because I really could do with that $270. I’m a student living in halls!” Fellow fresher Brooke Darrow said, “this has been dragged out so long, I do just want my money back. At this point the event has been so underhyped, and with everything having already happened it’s not really the same thing anymore.” When approached by Salient, Brendan Hines, Director of Events & Commercial at Live Nation NZ said “first and foremost, you’d think they would find a suitable [alternative] date that allowed the majority of people [with tickets] to go.” With such a substantial number of students heading home for the mid-year break, no-shows do have a potential to significantly reduce crowd sizes and impact the venues that host O-Week events. Hines continued “It’s obviously in the venues’ interest that they have the majority of the crowd turn up, as a big chunk of their revenues come through the bar, merchandise and similar revenue streams.”

He said he would “at the very least give people a window of opportunity to seek [a] refund.” Students questioning VUWSA over refunds were sent to trawl through the Terms & Conditions on the TicketFairy page, which specified that VUWSA was not intending to offer refunds for such a postponement. Brent Eccles, one of Aotearoa’s most prominent concert promoters (responsible for Six60, Ed Sheeran & Harry Styles tours, amongst others), said his understanding of NZ consumer laws was that “there is an obligation to refund, unless at the point of purchase it was made clear that there was a set of dates that the show might be postponed to. You can’t just say if we decide to postpone we won’t refund you. That’s bullshit, total bullshit.” Responding to a similar postponement controversy in 2021, Jon Duffy, CEO of Consumer NZ stated that “If you purchase the ticket and the postponement date is outlined as being X date in the future and you still go ahead with that purchase, that’s a different story from when a promoter is completely silent and then chooses to postpone instead of cancel.” Eccles suggested that VUWSA and the promoters of O-Week 2022 could have applied for the Arts and Culture Event Support Scheme (ACESS), which would have provided up to $300,000 to cover the nonrecoverable costs of a cancellation or postponement. The O-Week event appears to have met the criteria for ACESS. Had it been sought, payment from the scheme could have contributed to refunding ticket holders. Ultimately, though VUWSA are the face of the event, the responsibility for ticketing issues rests with the ticketer, TicketFairy. “Go to TicketFairy, and don’t take no for an answer,” was the solution Eccles suggested. “Everybody should write to TicketFairy — everyone.” For the ticket holders who can make the new dates, 2.O-Week still certainly promises good times and high adrenaline. But for the many who can’t, a few glimpses of DnB gigs and comedy shows through snap stories is all that will amount from their $270.

Hines added that there is an agreement in the events sector to be more flexible with refunds around Covid “to give the public some assurance that they could buy tickets in advance.” www.salient.org.nz

H e a dline Junkie:

A Bite-Sized Look Into the Big Stories

Words by Salient News Team Councils Criticised over Matariki Fireworks

Daddy Bishy: National MP Becomes a Father

Matariki made its debut as a national holiday on Friday 24 June, but councils across New Zealand are being criticised for going ahead with scheduled fireworks, despite Māori advice. Wellington City Council hosted a waterfront Matariki fireworks event on 24 June. Māori astronomers have publicly stated that fireworks do not align with Matariki kaupapa, as they go against the core value of mana taiao (environmental awareness).

National Party housing spokesperson and Hutt South lover Chris Bishop has welcomed his first child with wife Jenna Raeburn. Jeremy John Raeburn Bishop was born on the evening of Sunday 26 June at Wellington Hospital weighing in at 8 pounds. Bishop took to Instagram to celebrate the birth saying, “Jenna was a champion and Jeremy is the most adorable little man [...] He is perfect.”

Covid-19 New Strains and Flu put NZ Health System Under Pressure Already overrun hospitals are preparing for sickness and staff shortages, with the rise of a menacing flu strain and a new Covid-19 subvariant. Influenza “A” has been rampant. Disease experts blame lowered immunity from closed borders and difficulty collating vaccine data due to the pandemic. Covid variant BA.5 has already seen devastating impacts, with increased case numbers showing we are approaching a second wave of the virus. Hospitals are facing mounting pressure with increasing wait times and staff are experiencing burnout. Free Trade Agreement Prompts Feta Name Quagmire A new free trade agreement (FTA) between Aotearoa and the European Union has seen protection on geographically exclusive product manufacturing. This is a bizarre clause meaning locally produced “feta” is no longer able to be called as such. The FTA loosens up trade between NZ and the EU giving protection and priority to some of our key exports, but has left the cheese industry with a funky taste in its mouth. Catherine McNamara of the New Zealand Specialist Cheesemakers Association says it creates “uncertainty,” and only crumbly curd from Greece will be able to use the name “feta.”

Swarbrick’s Alcohol Reform Bill Pulled From Biscuit Tin Green Party drug reform spokesperson Chlöe Swarbrick’s bill aims to minimise alcohol harm. She is calling for evidence-based, appropriate regulation for “one of the most harmful drugs we know of” The Bill aims to end alcohol sponsorship of sports and venues, and ban alcohol advertising during live sports events. It also aims to end special appeals on local alcohol policies, so that communities have control over the location, density, and conditions of alcohol licences in their respective areas. New Blue Airport Bus Pleases Passengers Launched on July 1 and running every 10-20 minutes, the new Wellington airport bus has been welcomed by jet-setters. Nine “Airport Express” buses travel from Central Station to Wellington Airport peppered with small white planes across a blue exterior. The fleet is fully electric and snapper integrated, sporting free wifi and USB chargers. Excited facebook users labelled the buses “spiffy” and “flash” with one saying they “can’t wait to jump on.”

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YOUR VOICE MATTERS

Introducing: Aotearoa’s Best Dressed Rats Words by Bridget Scott (She/her)

Second hand shopping is only for the brave. Trudging through Newtown to another St Vinnies, rifling through Savemart’s musty menswear, and fighting the aggressive fashion girlies of Depop are battles only for our strongest soldiers. The risk of eroding your precious hours, dollars, and self-esteem is dangerously high. Unless you’re a rat.

On a corner of a dying social media platform exists the unicorn of buy and sell groups. A rare community that’s well moderated, trusted, and packed to the brim with steezy threads. It’s known as Wet Rat and it has over 8,000 members. Launched in September 2020, this Facebook group has transformed into Aotearoa’s best reselling community. Members mostly sell clothes, but posts extend to everything from art to homewares. Local businesses are prioritised. Bans on junk posts, scams, and bad vibes are strictly enforced. At the heart of this operation are an anonymous administrator (referred to as Head Rat) and three accompanying moderators. When talking to the Head Rat, it became clear that Wet Rat is a product of hard work and intentionality. The group was launched when Head Rat “knew there was a need for a more inclusive buy and sell that doesn’t curate the posts. It gained momentum really fast and people just understood the vibe we had from the very start.” Ever since Wet Rat was created, the moderation team each spend up to four hours a week ensuring the operation runs smoothly. This hasn’t always been easy. Inclusivity is at the core of Wet Rat’s community, but this requires everyone to operate under the same expectations. Moderators work carefully to check members before they join, ensuring rules are understood and the vibe is set for others to follow. This is generally effective, but when needed, administrative action is taken.

The sale of clothing from renowned fast fashion brands like Shein is banned, as well as the sale of culturally significant or potentially appropriative garments. Such posts are automatically deleted. Wet Rat is fundamentally a community and moderators act as facilitators. They love creating a safe space for young people to discuss issues and “try [their] best to provide a space for members that may feel like they are ignored in other parts of the fashion industry.” Community is becoming increasingly valuable as dressing well without causing harm becomes harder. The Rats are well intentioned, but balancing fast fashion’s environmental harms, the need for affordable clothing, the ethics of reselling and plus size representation, creates a headache. When debates are launched, moderators“try to help with educational articles” and continue monitoring discussions “to ensure no members are getting targeted [by] aggressive conversations amongst the comments.” The most contentious of discussions in the comments concerned whether resellers who purchase the quality clothing out of op shops for cheap and resell them for much higher online should be allowed to use and potentially profit from Wet Rat’s platform. The resulting discussion was polite, productive, and exposed perspectives that otherwise wouldn’t have been shared. One reseller lives in an “isolated community with health conditions” and breaks down the costs and risk involved in buying goods

for potential profit – allowing her to contribute to her family’s financial stability. Another person volunteers at an op shop and notes that people who are financially strained need quality clothing, especially for job interviews and events. Someone else suggested that op shops have plenty of stock, so the mix of quality and fast fashion will continue into the future. Threads on gentrification, wealth disparity, and the value of upcycling have all emerged. In an internet miracle, everyone remained civil throughout such discussions on Wet Rat. One user suggested these discussions were not worth having and believed they were an excuse for “superiority complexes” to be flexed. The Head Rat responded by pointing them towards other selling platforms without vocal client bases. The matter was collectively settled and resellers are now banned from the platform. Head Rat retains discretion over access to the group. Entry is invite only and moderators apply discretion to deny entry as they see fit. If someone posts too often, in too great a range of sizes, red flags are raised. The moderators scan Depop and Instagram, blocking anyone they find prominently active on other platforms. This transparency and co-operation between platform users and owners is radical. Head Rat sees it as part of their responsiblity: “It’s extremely important that we continue to provide this space online as there often [aren’t] safe spaces in real life.” But it also forms a key reason why users return to and prioritise Wet Rat over other reselling platforms. That’s true for Wet Rat user Islay May Aitchison. She says that because “the clothes are all being bought and sold by people with similar values” the group feels like “a big wardrobe exchange with friends and friends-of-friends.” As a result, “I don’t worry so much about being misled or scammed.”

modelling used on the platform is “objectifying” and echoes “thinspo” styling, a phenomenon commonly seen in online communities that promote disordered eating. Rat Michaela Mckendry adds that, “some of the other platforms have become oversaturated with fast fashion brands”. Others have reported Depop and Instagram brands selling op-shopped clothes for ten times more than they were originally worth. The secret to Wet Rat’s success is a combination of better prices and higher quality clothes that can’t be found elsewhere. Head Rat celebrates the fact that “so many subcultures of fashion reside within this group…we can just share our pieces to fellow members knowing they’ll get the love [they] deserve.” Others rats, like Ali Marshall “just love being able to find dope pieces and give them a new life.” The likelihood of finding clothes that are cool and fun skyrockets in a creative community. As another rat, Caitlin Byrne, writes, “everyone on here has similar values around sustainability and supporting small business and local artists… I’m way more likely to find something I like there versus anywhere else. ” Posts on the group are wide ranging, and there are usually more than thirty a day. Whether you’re after homemade crochet vest, a new yo-pro wardrobe, platform Crocs, local art, a warm jacket, a sultry town top, or a fresh pair of Docs (of course), all it takes is a scroll to discover the Facebook group dressing half the students roaming Kelburn’s hallowed halls. Head Rat isn’t ambitious for the future of the group and says the moderation team “understand this could all be over before we know it.” The focus is on extending Wet Rat’s unique and innovative approach to fashion. . Long term, the aspiration is to “continue to be a space where any young Kiwi can share their love for fashion and make a few quick bucks.”

Fellow rat Bianca Nagaiya has had similar experiences. She finds the platform uniquely easy to buy off because clothes are being sold by real people rather than corporations. Seeing “pre-loved clothes on people other than models [means] you can see how the clothes fit on other body types, and in posts the true sizes […] are often shared in recommendations.” This doesn’t happen on platforms like Depop. Wet Rats have noted the photography, language, and www.salient.org.nz

When in Wellington Words by Janhavi Gosavi (she/her) When in Wellington … dress as the Wellingtonians do. But what does it mean to look like a Wellingtonian? Are we contractually obligated to dress in accordance with our artsy-political-edgyanti-capitalist stereotype? Or is the rule that there are no rules? I asked three different students to share their wardrobes with me. I wanted to understand how their style had evolved since leaving their home towns and moving to Wellington. Dimitris grew up in Otara, South Auckland, in a big Pasifika household “that sometimes oscillated to 20 people”. I asked him to show me clothes that exemplified his style back in Auckland, and his current style in Wellington. He brings a big pile of clothes into the living room and we inspect the haul. Dimitris wore a lot of loungewear in Auckland, bought in bulk from the Warehouse: plain tees, pullover fleeces, baggy shorts. He shows me a past Christmas gift from his dad; a shirt featuring the Superman logo which has been appropriated to say ‘Samoa’. Dimitris attended a private highschool on scholarship, and when he wasn’t in his uniform, he was wearing hi-vis to work as a traffic controller. “Sometimes I’d work 60 hours a week, to the point where I’d wear these into my free time.” He pulls on the orange ensemble and strikes a pose for me in his blue doorframe. “You know they’re selling hi-vis stuff on Balenciaga now?” he muses.

Petra grew up in Wanaka. Back then she donned long blond hair, low cut tank tops, and a certified ~straight girl~ aura. “Wanaka’s so small, there were like three cool girls, and you know what? I was one of them,” she says with an air of nostalgia. Teenage Petra thought there was one way to be cool. All the girls in the central Otago area wore identical outfits. Petra shows me a typical day-time Wanaka outfit: high waisted shorts, with a white shirt and a denim jacket, and black converse. She explains that, back home, Converses were worn by everyone on every occasion, even school balls. The shorts are too short for her taste now. “This doesn’t make me feel good about myself”, she grimaces while looking at her outfit in the mirror. She then shows me a night-time Wanaka outfit, featuring a mesh black top with a bralette inside. “Me and my best friend would straighten our hair till it fucking fried, and we would walk down the streets [like this] and be thrilled when cars would honk at us. We were 12. “I also used to wear skirts,” she gasps theatrically. The repressed memories are all coming back to her. Joanna grew up in Christchurch, where her style was influenced by fleeting trends and Pinterest inspo. She used to follow New York Fashion Week, and went through a preppy phase of wanting to look like she came from ‘old money’. “I don’t know why I ever had that thought [...] cos eat the rich, right?” she huffs.

She puts on a typical Christchurch outfit and struts along her balcony for me. High waisted cheetah print pants, a pleather jacket and black boots … every item is from Glassons, and she isn’t proud of it.

Martens. It almost feels like a uniform, but with her weight fluctuating due to endometriosis, this uniform makes her feel comfortable in her ever-changing body.

Joanna insists tight clothing “doesn’t give me room to bloat,” so she changes into her ‘normal’ Wellington clothes: a green long sleeve under a loose denim dress, with her signature padlock necklace.

Petra reckons about 80% of her current wardrobe is from op shops. “You can repurpose items and make them feel correct,” she says while ripping the shoulder pads out of a patterned blazer so that it sits better on her frame. She parades around her room in a red pantsuit, showing me her glittery drag costumes. In Wellington, Petra feels like a small part of a big city. She can be “visually queer” here, “without hurting anyone’s feelings”.

Going to university was the first time Dimitris had the opportunity to consistently pick what he wore. He said: “Wellington makes me feel so free, like I’m out of the eye of the people I grew up with, so I don’t have that obligation to maintain the persona I built up.” Wellington also empowers him to dress beyond gender norms: “the gender of clothing [here] is devolved.” Dimitris is now more resourceful with his clothing, repurposing clothes like his high school uniform pants which are still in his rotation. He pulls on an opshopped outfit: a dress shirt, a tan blazer, matching pants, and brown dress shoes, accessorising with a silk headscarf and some shades. “I love money. If I had the money to dress like A$AP Rocky, I would. When I put on a dress shirt, I’m playing into that fantasy.” He plays some trap and starts voguing, leaving me speechless. Petra describes her style in Wellington as “colourful and queer”. She runs her fingers along the vast rainbow of button down shirts she has hanging in her closet. She wears a different version of the same outfit every day: turtleneck, shirt, pants, Doc

Joanna now loves second-hand shopping but hates stores like Thrift and Spacesuit because “they scream gentrification”. Instead of stalking runway trends, she finds fashion inspiration by walking down Cuba Street. She shows me one of her current favourite outfits: a Britney Spears baby tee, low waisted Ralph Lauren corduroy pants, a 2000s-inspired crochet cardigan, a bucket hat, and some loafers. She’s Fashion TikTok’s wet dream; a trendy, conscious consumer. Dimitris, Petra, and Joanna all use fashion to perform their identity as Wellingtonians. Their new wardrobes reflect their new lifestyles, gender expression, political beliefs, and passion for sustainability. When asked what Wellington fashion means to her, Joanna said, “There’s a freedom of expression here that’s completely uncontained … people are free to do whatever the fuck they want.”

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Guide To Second Hand Shopping Words by Hannah Mahon (she/her) Second hand shopping isn’t a new phenomenon, but it’s becoming increasingly popular. What’s not to love about finding one-of-a-kind pieces, being thrifty with your budget, and helping the planet all at once! Thrifting is like adult-style treasure hunting. Sometimes you leave with nothing after a whole day’s worth of sifting through clothes, but on other days you find something amazing. Unfortunately, the mere mention of clothes that have already been worn by someone else can freak people out and stop them buying second hand. But the overwhelming sense of pride and accomplishment you feel when you find a second hand gem should overshadow any fear. Here are some handy tips for second hand newbies and seasoned professionals:

DO:

DON’T:

Bring the essentials

Buy large sized clothes if you don’t need them

You will need: reusable bag; water bottle; wallet.

Smaller-sized people who buy extra large clothes purely to achieve the ‘baggy aesthetic’ should be aware that plus-size people often struggle to find items in their size. You may be taking clothes away from people that need them more, especially when buying from a charity store, where those with limited funds may get their everyday clothing.

Start small If you’re new to this, it’s easier to start at a smaller op-shop than a big warehouse op-shop like Save Mart. Try your local Mary Potter Hospice! Stores like these are less overwhelming and have what you need without the bigger prices of higher-end stores. Allocate enough time Second hand shopping often takes longer than anticipated, so don’t rush it. Remember to take your time and scour through the whole store, not just the obvious places. Be open-minded Second hand shopping is unpredictable. You’re more likely to find cool things when you aren’t shopping for a specific piece. Don’t be afraid to delve into unknown territory. Some areas to check out are the hat bins, scarf racks, and cabinets that are filled with gorgeous jewellery and sunglasses.

Put items back randomly Make sure to put items back where you found them in the store.This makes shopping easier for others. It also eases the workload of staff, particularly at charity stores where most staff are volunteers. Bulk buy Don’t just buy something because it’s cheap and hope that you’ll wear it. Think about what you’re buying and whether it’s something that you will get a lot of wear out of. Part of being a sustainable consumer is being a mindful consumer.

The essence of second hand shopping is maximising an item’s potential, so try experimenting with DIY! If you’re looking for ripped and distressed jeans, but can’t find any, just find some perfect-fitting jeans to cut and grate yourself. www.salient.org.nz

TYPES OF STORES: Not all second hand stores are the same. Choose the type of store that works best for you depending on your budget, whether you’re an online shopper, or if you like to try before you buy. The range varies from online personal sellers all the way to expensive vintage. Online

Op Shop

Sitting at home and scrolling is becoming the norm when shopping, so it’s no surprise that everyday people are taking the opportunity to sell things they don’t wear anymore. This form of second hand shopping usually connects buyers with individual sellers. Prices vary widely depending on the item and the location.

Op-shops are often charity-run stores that sell donated second hand goods. They are the perfect place to find what you need at a low price. Opshops are great if you have the time to rummage through random things to find that perfect piece of clothing. It’s also the best place to take your friends, pick out the ugliest outfits and say that they’d look great in them!

Some online stores include: Facebook MarketPlace, Designer Wardrobe, TradeMe, Depop. Facebook groups: Wet Rat, Walk in Wardrobe Cheap Clothing (NZ).

(Charities): Salvation Army Family Stores, Mary Potter Hospice, St Vincent de Paul/Vinnies, Opportunity for Animals, Aunty Dana’s Op Shop.

Instagram pages: @_thesecondhandclub, @ madsecondhand, @rino_by_siobhan.

(Business): Save Mart.

Boutique

Vintage

Clothes and accessories at a boutique second hand store go through a selection process before they make it onto the racks. This is arguably the most popular method of second hand shopping. It’s convenient while still being budget-friendly. These stores have a wide array of styles and brands in both menswear and womenswear that have been handpicked from the duds. You’re more likely to find what you’re looking for at a price that’s suitable for you, so everyone is a winner.

If you have a decent-sized wallet and you’re into gorgeous, branded vintage pieces, these are the stores for you. Unlike op shops, vintage stores are curated and feature rare goods that have a higher price tag.

Some boutique stores in Pōneke: Paperbag Princess, Repeats,Recycle Boutique, Thrift, Spacesuit, Soup Fashion Recovery.

Vintage stores in Pōneke: Hunters & Collectors, Ziggurat, Honour, Helter Skelter, Recidivist, Tangent & Company

CENTRAL SECOND-HAND HOT SPOTS

The Salvation Army

Arthur Street

Mary Potter Hospice Abel Smith Street

City Mission

Paper Bag Princess Recycle Boutique

Vivian Street

Space Suit

Thrift

Ziggurat

Hunters & Collectors

Ghuznee Street

Taranaki Street

Cuba Street

PLACES I RATE There are so many great op shops around Pōneke, but as a fresh graduate that has limited funds these are at the top of my list: The Salvation Army; 224 Taranaki Street, Te Aro

Recycle Boutique; 143 Vivian Street, Te Aro

The Salvation Army Family Stores help families on tight budgets access good quality second hand items for cheap prices, and help raise money for other Salvation Army community projects. While I personally don’t mind supporting the Salvation Army, some buyers may be put off by this being a faith-based charity. At the end of the day, the choice is yours!

Recycle Boutique is a consignment store that celebrates conscious shopping and sells pre-loved clothes, shoes, and accessories. They specialise in high-quality designer, contemporary, and vintage clothing.

• The store is very accessible. It has a wheelchair ramp and a large open-space layout

• A range of different prices and brands depending on your budget. There’s always something for everyone.

• Lots of parking • Easy drop off and pick up • Great finds (there must be local fashion icons who drop off their stuff here) • Affordable

• Huge Variety! They always have what you’re looking for,even things you didn’t know you needed.

• Donation program – they support several local community organisations, including KidsCan and SPCA, with both clothing and monetary donations. • Right next to the Te Aro campus, so it’s easy to have a browse between classes.

www.salient.org.nz

BATANAI, SYNTHIA BAHATI, 2022.

Celebrating Wellington Fashion This lookbook showcases garments from businesses and designers from Pōneke and all over Aotearoa. Because #supportinglocal is always in vogue. Photography: Tommie Love (@tomicheal) Creative & Art Direction: Mihad Falah (@Mihadkd) & Alice Brown Concept by: Janhavi Gosavi & Alice Brown Styled by: Janhavi Gosavi Casting: Mariyam (@Mariiy4) & Tommie Love (@tomicheal) Models : George Yonan (@george.yonan), Taila Oliver (@Tailaoliver), Afah Anas (@afah.anas), Mwewa Kasongo (@mw3wa), and Yuriko Shiratori.

HUFFER 9 To 5 Bucket Hat (Red/Tan) - Huffer $59.90

Mini Cross Body Bag (Black) - Huffer $69.90 Missions Pack Vest (Black ) - Huffer $159.90

Mens Trio Puffer Jacket (Navy/ Red) - Huffer

Mens LS Free Tee (Chalk) - Huffer

$269.90

$89.90

9 To 5 Relax Pant (Doe) - Huffer

Mens Wanaka Stance Pant - Huffer

$129.90

$149.90 www.salient.org.nz

Pink Bleached Serger Spliced Top - Karaoke Superstars $170.00 Three Pearl Drops Quintessence Freshwater pearls on silver hooks

Pinstripe Pinafore - Karaoke Superstars $350.00

$27.00 Sparkly Halterneck Top - Made By Molly Made from an upcycled dress $75.00 Tartan Pants - Karaoke Superstars $700 (sold as part of a set)

MADE BY MOLLY 24

Striped Crochet Top & Pink Crochet Gloves - Made By Molly Top ($80.00), Gloves ($30.00) Ivy Cut Out Pants - Sorrentino Studios $450.00

Ai Ni Earrings - Boabei Silver plated with Swarovski crystals, glass beads, and rhinestones

BIZARRE BAZAAR

$79.00 Elevated Selvedge Jacket Depth Of Scye $560.00 Pleated Skirt - Depth Of Scye $450.00

Pearl And Gold Necklace Quintessence Freshwater pearls with gold coloured spacer beads $42.00 Gingernut “Trashycore” Bleached T-shirt - Karaoke Superstars x Zoe Hannay $200.00 Patterned Jeans - Moss Tunstall $270.00

Taylor Dress - TwentySeven Names Cotton statement dress in the colour ‘Black Lavender Floral’ $440.00 Scrunchie Vi Bag - Yu Mei Party bag in the colour ‘Spice’ $619.00 Everything Necklace - Baobei $210.00

TWENTYSEVEN NAMES Blanche Dress - TwentySeven Names Linen dress in the colour ‘Mint Check’ $580.00

Dark Grey Beaded Chiffon Top

Orange Hand-Knit Beanie

$139.00

$46.00

Pussy Bow White Shirt Barbara Lee

Orange Hand-Knit Sweater $185.00

$69.00 White Pleat Long Skirt Windsmoore $88.00 Brown Knee-High Boots - Jil Sander $345.00

ZIGGURAT Black Straight Cut Trousers $88.00 Suki Multi-Strap Clutch - Yu Mei Leather petite box clutch in the colour ‘Black Olive’ $719.00

LOVE U Pendant - Baobei Resin pink heart pendant tied with adjustable Chinese red rope $59.00

Khaki Ruffle Shirt Dress Karaoke Superstars $495.00 www.salient.org.nz

Nawal Sari (@nawalsari)

Shahd Batal (@shahdbatal)

Covering Up: The Empower Words by Ronia Ibrahim (she/her) The principles of modest fashion are innumerable. There must be acute attention paid to a variety of factors: fabrics, drapery, layering, seasons, temperature, opacity, texture. Unsurprisingly, there is a huge following for this art, particularly amongst the female Muslim community, with #hijabi and #hijabinsta getting billions of hits online. You can find hijab tutorials (videos on how to tie different hijab styles) and modest fashion hacks such as what to wear with sleeves during summer and how to layer for winter. The title “hijabi influencer” is a rising niche of internet celebrity. It fills the gap in a predominantly eurocentric beauty industry that may not satisfy the zeitgeist of those who prefer abayas to mini dresses. When I was 13 and first started wearing hijab, hijabi influencers were integral to my relationship with modest fashion. Dina Tokio was one of them. She is a pioneer of the modest fashion world, a BritishEgyptian vlogger who rose to fame for her hijab tutorials and bubbly personality. Other favourites included SaimaSmilesLike for her absurd humour and edgier style, and Habiba Da Silva for her

makeup looks and groundbreaking crinkle-scarf hijab line. Having role models to look up to while I started on my hijab journey was extremely important to help me find my own unique way of expressing myself through dressing modestly, especially when there weren’t many people who looked like me in mainstream fashion. Modest fashion is slowly becoming less of a niche. Midi/maxi skirts, long dresses and layering are becoming increasingly popular. The “cottagecore aesthetic” can be modest-fashion aligning, with its flowy dresses, big sleeves and cosy vibes. Unfortunately, as modest fashion becomes more accessible, instances of blatant cultural appropriation have also been on the rise. In 2018, Gucci came under heat for appropriating Sikh turbans and hijabs at Milan Fashion Week. This raised the issue of white figures being praised for deciding to dress in a certain way, whilst the way BIPOC/religious communities dress is looked down upon. People pointed out the double standard of praising Billie Eilish for her baggy style and her decision to keep her body private, when many

Basra Ajeh (@itsbasra)

Saima Chowdhury (@SaimaSmilesLike)

Muslim women choose to cover themselves for the same reason. In more obviously xenophobic example, last year France proposed banning hijabs and other “religious symbols” in public places, as they were deemed to be “extremist” expressions of faith.

Today, many of the OG hijabi influencers I used to follow such as Dina Tokio have since decided to stop wearing their hijabs. Some people like SaimaSmilesLike have moved onto different niches like cosplay. The modest fashion scene is constantly evolving and is super diverse. Now, I casually follow people like @nawalsari for thrifted street fashion, @ itsbasra for colourful vintage and @shadbatal for the boujee-independent-queen vibe. Wearing the hijab, even if you’re not an influencer, can be a high stakes decision. For many who choose to dress this way, it is a form of rebellion against the status quo. This makes hijabis innovative beasts when it comes to the fashion game. We take clothing and see its potential, finding a way to work around or break through the parameters of western expectations (or the searing heat of summer). It’s a conscious decision to be unapologetically authentic. As a Muslim woman who wears the hijab, I choose to go against European beauty standards. I choose to express my faith. Choosing to dress modestly is one way that allows fashion to bring value and empowerment into our lives.

ring Art of Modest Fashion

Dressing modestly isn’t something that belongs to one particular culture or religion. But it is an important value for people from all sorts of backgrounds. The concept of modesty as a whole is something that can be practised by all genders and cultures, and isn’t limited to women or people of faith. Despite this, it is a huge double standard when people from marginalised backgrounds who choose to dress modestly are seen as backwards or extremist, whilst a white modestly dressed person can be a groundbreaking trendsetter. We should all have autonomy over the way we dress, but when we view clothing through a biassed lens and make assumptions about clothing choices, we lose that. We lose the sense of freedom and expression that the art of dressing gives us.

www.salient.org.nz

Words by Lucy Forrestal (she/her) Crochet might make you think of tea cosies, lace doilies, or a scratchy granny square blanket your grandma made for you as a kid. But when I think of crochet, I’m picturing crochet bikinis, groovy sweaters, cute tops, and that Harry Styles bucket hat. I’m talking about creating fibre art and iconic fashion pieces with a hook and some yarn. My great nana Olga May was a crochet queen. She passed away when I was a baby, so I never got to spend much time with her. But I am very lucky to have one of her blankets and some other crochet pieces. Olga’s crochet genes skipped a couple of generations so I taught myself how to with the help of YouTube and social media in 2020. Since then, I’ve always had a project on the go. Crocheting is a fun stress reliever with the added bonus of having a piece of clothing to wear when you’re done. Let me make one thing clear: crochet is not knitting. Crochet is the art of creating textiles with a single hook and some material, mostly wool, cotton, or acrylic yarn. You use this hook and yarn to make loops, which all intertwine and create whatever textiles your heart desires. Knitting uses two needles. Crocheted fabrics

Not Your Na look vastly different to knitting when closely examined. The origins of crochet are widely debated, with crochet-like pieces found in many ancient cultures including Asia, Europe, and South America. It also has a rich history. Crochet adornments were used in puberty rite ceremonies throughout South America in the 1500s. It became valuable income to many Irish families throughout the 1845-1850 potato famine, when the Irish population banded together to crochet intricate lace pieces to sell to buyers abroad. The 1920s and 30s saw crochet garments rise in popularity. Crochet became a significant piece of history during World War II, when women at home crocheted things such as caps and ear protectors to send to troops. In the 60s, 70s, and 80s, crochet fashion pieces truly took off and the iconic granny square became a staple in people’s homes. Crochet eventually began to decline in popularity throughout the 90s and 2000s. As fast fashion became popular, people were no longer creating their own clothes. For a while, no one thought Nana’s crocheted cardigans were cool anymore.

ana’s Crochet That changed during the 2020 lockdown. While many people were teaching themselves how to make sourdough bread or whipping coffee, some of us were learning how to crochet. A new wave of people quickly realised how easy it was to make their own garments that were custom fitted to their bodies, in any colour or pattern they desired. We uploaded our pieces onto Instagram and TikTok (here’s a shameless plug for my Instagram account @lucstitches). With 80s and 90s fashion making a comeback, crochet quickly rose in popularity on social media. Accounts such as @rainbowdropz_ and @made.in.the.moment grew to have over 34.1k and 35.1k followers respectively. Creators began to sell pieces, start their own small independent businesses, and earn an income. Fast fashion retailers soon caught on to the rise in popularity of crochet pieces. They began selling crochet pieces themselves for a quarter of the price of small businesses, in some instances stealing patterns and designs from these independent creators. Additionally, the incredibly niche aspect of crochet is that there is no such thing as a crochet machine. Crochet has to be done entirely by hand due to the nature of the loops created and the use of a single

hook. When you see fast fashion retailers selling crochet pieces, understand that they were entirely made by hand. There is no guarantee that the creator was paid their worth. It is very important to support small businesses, especially when purchasing handmade garments. You know who made the piece and you are directly supporting the artist themselves. Harry Styles knows this. He purchased his iconic yellow sunflower crochet bucket hat from a small Instagram business, Rainbow Dropz Crochet (@rainbowdropz_). Have a crack at trying to crochet yourself! It’s super simple. Once you get the hang of a few basic stitches you can create literally anything. I recommend watching YouTube tutorials from the likes of simplydaisy and Jenna Phipps. You can purchase yarn and hooks from The Warehouse or Spotlight, or support small Wellington businesses and purchase your supplies from Knit World or Made Marion. Once you have the basics down, you can purchase patterns from small businesses on Instagram, Ravelry, or make up your own!

The Demise of YouTube’s Top Fashion Shows Words by Alice Brown (she/her)

TW: This piece mentions racism and mental health.

Racial Microaggressions:

For millions of youth globally, PAQ was the key to the exclusive high-end streetwear scene. But in 2020, our drip feed of fashion content was cut. We were left without an explanation, wondering WTF happened to PAQ? It seems that shitty contracts, neglect of the hosts’ mental health, and racial microaggressions caused the hosts to cancel their own shows at the peak of their careers.

Between PAQ and NAYVA, there was only one host who was not a person of colour. NAYVA’s cohost Angel told VICE that she overheard a casting director say: “We want no white girls. If you’re white, you’re not getting the show.” Instead of allowing hosts to convey their own connections to their culture, Kyra perpetuated stereotypes. In one case, Kyra gave Esme her own taco truck to serve tacos to the guest presenter.

PAQ was a weekly, challenge-led YouTube show that provided young men with fashion knowledge, teaching them to confidently experiment with self expression. It was hosted by models Danny Lomas and Elias Riadi, musician Dexter Black, and artist Shaquille (Shaq) Keith. The hosts were an established friend group and were scouted by Kyra, a digital entertainment company. The show grew a large following of passionate fans which led to KYRA creating a second show, dedicated to female fashion - NAYVA. Kyra’s YouTube series bagged deals with the world’s top brands as well as guest appearances from the likes of Billie Eliish, Doja Cat, and Aminé. Tracking to make $10 million in 2019, profit was expected to increase in 2020 with the announcement of 10 new shows. Instead, 2020 began with NAYVA’s cancellation; PAQ followed a few months later. So what the fuck happened? Shitty Contracts: A scarcity in creative job opportunities sparked a large power imbalance between the production company and the talent. Contract negotiations were declined by Kyra. A host even recalled being threatened by replacement if they didn’t agree to the terms and conditions. The situation was made worse by Kyra signing the hosts at young ages: NAYVA hosts Esme and Faith were only 17. Danny and Elias from PAQ were 20. Mental Health Neglect: Shaq was required on set the day after his stepfather’s passing. Producers refused to listen to him expressing his inability to work. They instead painted him out as the “angry black boy”. During the days that followed, he was told to smile and was once told “stop looking like you want to kill yourself”.

Editors suggested that black presenters shouldn’t be put on thumbnails as it decreases audience interaction. According to VICE, a white creative director referred to a host’s natural hair as a “bad weave”. Multiple hosts were quick to call Kyra out on its bullshit in the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement. Shaq said, “Kyra TV out here making statements but it’s the same four white bosses that treated me like shit and pushed my mental health into the dirt. How many black people you used to get this platform? How many of them still work for you? I’ll wait.” Ironically, Kyra was making these posts while an email was sitting in their inbox from the hosts’ lawyers. Fans were also quick to jump on board which led to Kyra deleting its Instagram account completely. The shows have ended but former hosts are still working on their creative endeavours.

LOC

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LEC TI O LE

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Horsing Around At House Of Rounds: A Gig Review Words by Beth Mountford (she/her) and significant contributions by Alice Brown (she/her) We arrived at the gig. Meow was ablaze with Jameson insignia. It was projected on the walls, imprinted on the chests of employees, and in many people’s hands. The bouncers, ever committed to their jobs, were asking people “how many have you had tonight?” I said “none” and I was rewarded with a token for a free Jameson. Inside I asked the Jameson brand ambassador what she thought about the connection between alcohol and music in New Zealand. She said, “I think drink responsibly and you’ll have a hell of a good time.” Aunty El was already playing when we got inside. Her set covered a range of genres from grime to Justin Timberlake remixes. A few dedicated fans were thoroughly captivated at the front while people filed in behind them. By the time Rhys Rich got on stage, the crowd was dense and sweaty. The stage was lit up with alty, film-hazy visuals of New York street scenes, seagulls, and pretty girls in sunglasses. Rhys Rich’s set was a blended lo-fi hip-hop adorned with his dreamy Yellow Days alt-pop voice. I was impressed by the noisy fans singing his lyrics back to him. In an exclusive interview after the show Rich told Salient, “everytime I hear someone else’s voice [when I’m on stage] I’m winning.” During the break we went to explore the sights of Meow. One woman in the bathroom line was making the men wait as long as the women in the name of “tearing down the patriarchy.” Inside the bathroom there was one person advertising a job at a law firm, a conversation was being had about the highs and lows of working in retail, and a security guard was investigating the pervading smell of marijuana.

lilbubblegum picked up the pace with four people on stage and delivered a high-energy set. He credited the Wellington crowd for being better than Auckland, where they had been last night. The crowd repaid the compliment by repeating every demand of “hell yeah” back to him. Mid-way through the set lilbubblegum split the crowd in two, instructing “left side say ‘fuck right side,’” and vice-versa. Eventually we couldn’t stand the tension and ran at each other, relieving our agitation in the humble sway of the mosh. Finally, it was time to see the act we had all been waiting for. JessB, who had been described by fans outside as “fucking lit”, “phenomenal” and “friends with my tattoo artist”, donned the stage with her hype-girl and DJ, Half Queen . They were respectably drinking water. The set showcased JessB’s raw, honest vocals and moved towards an almost house-y vibe at the end. When she tried to leave the stage, she was called back by the incessant chanting of “one more song!” She rejected calls from the crowd to play “Best Friend” again as the encore, insisting that the crowd suggest one of her songs. A power move to say the least. In the end, we got “Best Friend” and “Take it Down” to close the show. JessB and Half Queenare not only contributing to the New Zealand music scene, they are challenging its boys-club nature too. Overall review: phenomenal.

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Real Talk, Trends Words by Olivia Dykes (she/her) and Gabrielle Reyes (she/her) This week on the Salient Podcasts page, Liv & Gabi from FOR REAL? Podcast chat to us about the famous foe of the 2000s. It’s fast fashion, a topic they discussed on their “Real talk, trends” episode. Fast Fashion. The most uncool trend this season. Here at FOR REAL?, we’re the first to say that we’ve done our fair share of dabbling in the fast fashion industry. If we’re keeping it 100% real, we still do it. That’s not to say we aren’t trying to do better! In our “Real talk, trends” episode, we touch on how we’re trying our best to steer away from buying into the fast fashion industry and to become more responsible consumers. Here are a few of our top tips to jumping on the SLOW fashion trend.

At the end of the day, keep it real! We’re all uni students with very little disposable income and a constant need for convenience. Before you hop on the trend or pay for express shipping, sleep on it! Be more aware of the ethics and sustainability, of buying from brands that support fast fashion. Save yourself from buying into a micro-trend you might regret. If you feel like hearing us have a yarn about these sorts of things, make sure to find FOR REAL? on Spotify, and chuck us a follow on Instagram @forrealthepodcast. Lots of love, Liv & Gabi xox

1. Get on the thrifting bandwagon. Head into a thrift store or op-shop, either online or in-person, with an open mind and a clear idea of what you want. We guarantee you’ll leave with some gems. Paperbag Princess on Cuba is the FOR REAL? fav. 2. Buy ‘investment’ pieces you know you’ll have for a long time. Build that capsule wardrobe baby! If you do feel the absolute need to purchase items from stores and brands that you know aren’t super ethical or sustainable, make it worth it. Try your best to buy things that may be slightly more harmful on your bank account, but will last a while in your wardrobe. 3. Steer clear from micro trends. Unless you absolutely froth that blue Glassons corset you saw @SophaDophaa wearing, and reckon you’ll wear it more than once, maybe refrain from making the purchase. It’s not worth it, babe.

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Word of the Week: Fashion Te Reo Māori: hoahoa pūweru New Zealand Sign Language:

WEEK 12 ANSWERS

SUDOKU

Aries Being an impulsive Aries and poor money habits seem to come hand-in-hand. If you overspend this week, you won’t see any of the extra money that comes your way in the near future.

Cancer Looks like a wake up call is overdue. But don’t fear, it’s not for you, Cancer! You might be the one that needs to give a friend some much needed advice.

Libra Two words: information consumption. There’s a lot of stuff you’re gonna have to put in your brain this week. For all you university attending Libras, this means reading after reading after reading…

Capricorn Your horoscope this week? Look forward to closure. This could be healing a long lost relationship or even just finding the keys you lost a year ago between the cushions of the couch.

Taurus I have good news and I have bad news. Something isn’t going to go to plan and will lead you to disappointment, but something even better is going to eventuate.

Leo You know when you meet someone completely new and you two just click? Like you’ve known each other for ages? Be open this week, because your new best friend may be on their way.

Scorpio I honestly don’t have anything to say to you except: STOP PROCRASTINATING.

Aquarius You’re blinded by what’s beautiful, Aquarius. All that glitters is not gold, looks can be deceiving, etc etc. You know all this but apparently you need a reminder.

Gemini This week you’re going to be even more of a chatterbox than usual. And that’s really saying something. You’ll tire everyone else out before you get bored of each conversation.

Virgo Are you not taking time out for yourself? One of your best qualities is your determination, but you’re letting your tunnel vision get the best of you. Time to let yourself have a break for once.

Sagittarius You know that person that you’ve known for a while and always kind of had a crush on? Well… now may be the time to finally tell them. Venus is on your side this week.

Pisces The things you truly desire are being obscured by grandiose delusions. This is your typical biting-off-more-than-you-canchew type of situation.

THE SALIENT TEAM YOU CAN THANK THESE PEOPLE FOR YOUR WEEKLY FIX.

Editor Janhavi Gosavi

News Editor Beth Mountford

News Editor Azaria Howell

Designer Alice Brown

Chief Reporter Ethan Manera

Sub-Editor Tessa Keenan

Features Editor Ronia Ibrahim

Staff Writer Bridget Scott

Staff Writer Maia Ingoe

Staff Writer Zoe Mills

CENTREFOLD ARTIST

This week’s amazing centrefold is brought to you by: Make up by - @Marydafairy Model - @BatanaiMashingaidze Photography Synthia Bahati

Social Media Manager Seren Ashmore

Podcast Manager Francesca Pietkiewicz

Website Manager Annalise Scott

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CONTRIBUTORS Hannah Mahon

Olivia Dykes

Kelly Mitchell

Lucy Forrestal

Gabrielle Reyes

Mika Hervel

Niamh Vaughn

Sophia Willis

Jamie Clumpas