Salon Magazine, April 2010 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon magazine

the business of beauty and style

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

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Haircutting tips, tools and techniques plus get equipped for the Contessas

april 10 $5 salon52.ca

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DISCOVER INOA TODAY 1-877-281-2798 OR WWW.INOA.CA

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Ess E n s i t y ’s

inspirED byn at u r E contEst l E t t h E i n s p i r at i o n b E g i n ! c r E at E a h a i r s t y l E u s i n g Es s E n s i t y p r o D u c t s t o W i n a p r i z E p a c k a g E v a l u E D o v E r $ 10 , 0 0 0 ! Prize includes a professional photoshoot paid for by Schwarzkopf Professional, a 2 page feature in Salon Magazine, plus more. enter as often as you like. you don’t need to be a pro, use any camera! Be inspired. get exposure. Win the opportunity of a lifetime. go to www.salon52.ca/contests starting March 5, 2010 for complete details. Deadline to enter is June 3, 2010.

Styling

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Care

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2009 win ner Krist y Nickers

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on from Chrome

Spa in E dmont

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service your creativity. expand your imagination. thrill your clients. outshine your competition.

sebastian stylists are always on the edge of

what's next

[ MICKY GREEN ] paris-via-australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s breakout vocalista makes a homespun sound known to the world through the web, as her artistic style electrifies the fashion scene. ÂŠ 2009 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All rights reserved.

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rewind RECONSIDER THE SERVICE YOU’RE OFFERING Everyone cuts and colours. That’s standard service. So what can you do to up your standard? What can you do to really stand out? You can provide something others can’t: innovative service. Daniel Di Tommaso, Sebastian core team leader, knows first-hand. “Believe it or not, clients crave more options,” says Di Tommaso. “They want the full salon experience. And if a stylist can’t fulfil their needs, they’re out. Expanding your service menu with made-to-order treatments creates that experience. Your service goes from the same old cut, the same old colour to a tailored package designed specifically for the individual sitting in your chair.” Think of it as the evolution of service. Think of it as capitalizing on the technology behind two treatment lines developed with the professional in mind: Cellophanes and Texture Tandem.

play WITH COLOUR

remix TOUCHABLE TEXTURE

I N NOVAT IV E COLOUR SE RV IC E: C E L LOP H A NE S

I N N OVAT I V E T E X T U R E S E RV ICE: T E X T U R E TA N D E M

Ammonia-free colour gloss treatments, Cellophanes illuminate hair with shine, depth and tone for four to six weeks. Ideal for all hair types and textures, Cellophanes come in nine intermixable shades that can be custom-blended to suit everyone’s individual look. Pick and apply your Cellophane shade. It’s really that easy.

The ultimate texturizing and conditioning therapy, Texture Tandem services are simply genius. Locking in moisture for up to five shampoos, Tandem services can be customized to suit every individual. Used either before or after a cut or colour service, the result is instant volume and soft locks a client can flaunt.

forward YOUR THINKING

Go to salon52.ca for more on Sebastian in-salon services

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Superior technology is the way of the future. It’s what yields unparalleled results.

gloss shines as bright,” says Panuccio. “Colours come out beautifully with a variety of reflective hues.”

“There’s nothing like Texture Tandem on the market… period,” says Sebastian core team stylist Daniele Panuccio. “Other volumizing products simply don’t match its level of performance.”

In Panuccio’s experience, “These services are quick and simple—great to work with. They go straight from bottle to bowl to hair.” Completely customizable, they’re also a great way to generate extra revenue. “Nothing comes close to this duo of services.”

Ideal for colour commitment-phobes or those sensitive to peroxide or ammonia, Cellophanes offer the same calibre of perfomance. “After one use, you’ll see no other hair

Demand it at your salon. Info: www.sebastianprofessional.com.

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Together. A passion for hair 008.se.a10.skp_bc.2.indd

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Rebuild beauty from within. NEW: BC hairtherapy with Amino Cell Rebuild technology is designed to create beautiful hair with brilliant shine. A new generation of care delivers a new level of performance by targeting damaged hair cells and rebuilding the condition of hair from the inside. Discover a new way to care for hair, discover hairtherapy. Available in salons March 1, 2010.

PLUS 2 MAJOR CONTESTS that you won’t want to miss out on! Ask your Schwarzkopf Professional consultant about how your clients can win an all expense paid trip to NY AND how hairdressers across the country can win an all expense paid trip to London, England … all compliments of BC hairtherapy! Full contest details on www.letyourhairBCeen.ca

Need more information – just ASK! www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca or 800.463.3081.

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Cutting Edge

april.10 38

Salon Magazine singles out these three stylists for their innovative approaches to haircutting

the price is right

A CUT AHEAD

A complete guide to the dos and don’ts of increasing the price of a haircut

You'd be nowhere without Sassoon's bob and five-point cut

Beautiful contributions Outlining the Haiti Relief initiatives of the professional beauty industry

Will Canadian salons warm up to thermo cuts?

In light of April being Earth Month, we take a look at what some manufacturers are doing to be more earth-friendly

SIZZLING SHEARS scissor happy

the business of beauty and style

FEatures 52 GREEN PIONEERS

SHARPEN UP

Whether you’re a student or a seasoned professional, we dish on finding the best shears for you

magazine

HAIR COLLECTIONS

Featuring looks from SKP Essential Looks, La Biosthetique, Joico and Aveda

Bridal path

Shear Strength Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

37 SPECIAL cutting section:

l salon

Haircutting tips, tools and techniques plus get equipped for the Contessas

april 10 $5 salon52.ca

Collection: Emotion Hair: Shantal Dupon, Contessa 21, Canadian Hairstylist of the Year finalist Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Makeup: Geneviève Lenneville Photos: Leda & St. Jacques se.a.10.cover.3-2.indd 6

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With the busy wedding season almost here, Salon Magazine gives you a complete guide to dealing with bridal clients

80 TELL A TALE

A step-by-step guide to storyboarding your next Contessa collection

salon > april 10

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salon52.ca

3/5/10 2:18:14 PM

Pink-a-Doodle

I Think in Pink

It’s a Girl!

Isn’t that Precious?

Perfectly innocent. Innocently provocative.

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Features OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush (Patent Pending).

3/4/10 7:29:56 PM

NAILS How to create an eco-friendly nail bar

64 Joico

Le Graphique

REGULARS 20 EDITOR’S LETTER 22 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 24 SALON52.CA This month on salon52.ca

HAIRLINES Kristen Stewart brings back the shag cut p.27; Contessa entry form available online at salon52.ca p.28; John Paul DeJoria visits Canada this spring p.28; get your iPhone working for your business life p.28; LP launches

Aveda Sublime

the Série Nature line p.30; Canada welcomes the new hair care line Unite p.30; Redken for Men sponsors Olympic athletes p.32; Clubman celebrates

INTERIORS

84 89

SCOOP

200 years p.32; the latest tools from Rowenta p.32; Shelf Life offers six new products your clients will love p.34.

COLOUR

CONTESSA GALLERY

A look at the latest colour launches

Shantal Dupon talks about her C21 Canadian Hairstylist of the

salon > april 10

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NAILS How to create an eco-friendly nail bar

EVENTS Coverage of L’OréaI Professionnel’s Colour Trophy, Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Hairtherapy relaunch, Donato Salon + Spa’s grand opening and more

Year collection

Edmonton's Blunt Salon Inc. creates a modern haven for everyone from housewives to hipsters

LAST WORD by John Steinberg

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Imagine a brand… …with the best affordable products

…connected through a stylist community

…with the most accessible education

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Imagine empowering professionals & supporting their pride, optimism and energy.

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Imagine the best affordable products. Easy-to-use, predictable results, smart-tech innovation.

I &

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“I’ve been with Matrix for 11 years and absolutely love their products! I am always comfortable with Matrix color because it is simple, innovative, easy to use, and gives consistent and guaranteed results. SoColor, with its 3 oz tube, gives us the best quality at the best price [per application]. Clients come back year after year to my salon and are loyal to my service, not only because of Matrix color, but also thanks to Matrix retail products. Biolage has been around for 20 years and all my clients love it and trust it!. I have grown my salon to 8 chairs and can’t think of any other brand that would help me grow my business as much as Matrix!”

“ Biolage has been around for 20 years and all my clients love it and trust it!”

Luigi Ditacchio Owner, You Salon Richmond Hill, Ontario

“From styling to colour lines, Matrix offers everything I need to satisfy my clients’ diverse haircare requirements. Its products maximize the expression of my clients’ hairstyles. The growth and addition of innovative product lines have solidified my reliance and confidence in Matrix. Using Matrix products ensures that my clients’ hair styles are always healthy, fabulous, trendy, and their hair colour is pristine. Matrix offers stylists the tools and, most importantly, the products needed to constantly improve and grow as hair stylists.” Peter MacDonald Owner, STARE Hair Kelowna, British Columbia

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Pub_Sa

Imagine the most accessible & inspirational education. Largest network of educators, C.R.A.F.T. education programs tailored to each level.

“Matrix took a chance on me! I had the opportunity to take part in the invaluable Matrix Color Mastery course. I already feel more confident at the salon and am excited to be able to put what I have learned at Matrix into practice. I want to be the best at what I do and I feel that Matrix is helping me achieve that goal. I can’t wait to attend more Matrix education courses as my last course was an unforgettable and wonderful experience that I will have with me…forever!” Brian Dugas Hush Salon and Spa Guelph, Ontario

“ Matrix brought confidence and self-esteem into our salon.” “Our salon has been in operation since 1978. Matrix was the first company to speak of ‘education’. Matrix brought confidence and self-esteem into our salon. Matrix taught us that we are hairstylists, not hairdressers. They showed us the impact that we can have on our community and taught us to be trendsetters. The simplicity of the color gave a couple of us the confidence to become Matrix educators and to share our passion for creativity. We smile, hold our heads high and declare ourselves a member of the ‘Matrix family’.” Carolyn Mulhall Owner, Midnapore Hairstyling Calgary, Alberta

No1 in Canadian

salons 9:37 AM

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Imagine Salon Success.

Photo credit: Eden’s Garden Photography

Unbeatable business-building programs and services.

“I love what Matrix offers! We have been a Matrix salon for 15 years. Not only does Matrix have a great line of superior products for both the stylist/technician and the client, but they also have incorporated a successful education and rewards program that has allowed us as a salon team to advance our skills and promote business. Matrix has definitely been a large part of the knowledge and growth of Snippers.” Darlene Pelz Owner, Snippers Inc. Devon, Alberta

“I began my career in hairdressing in the basement of my apartment 11 years ago. With its reliability, popularity and vision, Matrix has played a key role in the constant growth of my salon. I now have 3 employees! Matrix offers a complete support and education program that covers personal growth, improvement of art skills and business management and development. We are very thrilled and proud to work with Matrix products. We feel supported and renewed, always in evolution.”

C O K

“ Matrix really has helped me grow my business.”

“A o s u h c t

L O K

Richard Cantin Owner, Salon Boutique T’es-tu vu l’Allure Québec, Québec

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“G s e p s in M o h

23/02/10 9:37PM AM 3/4/10 7:20:32

Pub_Sa

Photo credit: Eden’s Garden Photography

“Glow Hair and Body is proud to be a Matrix focused salon! Matrix has some of the best education we have ever received. Their educators are so creative and passionate; it was one of the main reasons for our switch. Our next goal is to attend the Matrix Academy in London, UK! Matrix also has the rewarding Club Matrix: I can use the points for backbar, education or even tools. Now that’s support! Matrix really has helped me grow my business.” Carrie Veldhoven Owner, Glow Hair and Body Kentville, Nova Scotia

“As a hairdresser, I’ve used many product lines over the years. When I decided to build my studio, the only simple decision was to use Matrix. Their products produce predictable, high-quality results that I can guarantee to my clientele. Thanks to Matrix, my clients are loyal to my salon and my business has grown! ” Lesli Meyer Owner, All About Hair Studio Kelowna, British Columbia

No1 in Canadian

salons 9:37 AM

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Imagine Personal Success. Unique opportunities that will change your life.

“I’ve been with Matrix for 15 years and am a Global Design Team Artist. Since I’ve joined Matrix, my life has changed tremendously. Matrix gave me the tools I needed to grow professionally and personally, as well as the support I needed to grow my salon business. I’ve always felt strongly supported over the years. Being part of the Global Design Team gave me the opportunity to take my creativity out there. I wouldn’t be where I am today without Matrix.”

“ I wouldn’t be where I am today without Matrix.”

Darek Wierzbicki Matrix Global Design Team Artist Owner, Studio 237 Belleville, Ontario

“I’ve been with Matrix for a year and I’m loving it! Matrix has really changed my life. The education team believes in me and has given me the opportunity to be part of the Design Pulse tour. I traveled all over Canada to educate other stylists! It’s inspired me to become more of an advanced stylist, suit myself up in order to give my clients the best care and other stylists the best education. It’s important to have a goal, to go in the right direction, and I believe that with Matrix, I will achieve anything I desire.” Ehsan Dornajafi Matrix Guest Artist Co-owner, Colour Central Toronto, Ontario

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“Matrix opened new horizons for me and helped me shake up my routine. I have been working with Matrix for 15 years. Never would I have thought that someday, I’d have the opportunity to teach my passion internationally, to win awards and to be featured in magazines. Thanks to Matrix, I’ve grown my small-town salon, increased my number of employees to 10 and have a loyal client base that has supported me over the years with my national and international career development.” Cinthia Gauthier Matrix Guest Artist Owner, cynaika.studio Buckingham, Québec

23/02/10 9:38PM AM 3/4/10 7:20:43

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9:38 AM

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No1 in Canadian

salons 23/02/10 9:38PM AM 3/4/10 7:20:49

EDITOR’S LETTER

had just returned from a weekend getaway in Chicago before starting my role as the new editor of Salon Magazine. Like any well-deserved vacation or mini-break, the perfect haircut can make just about anyone feel refreshed and revitalized. Of course, a good holiday doesn’t come without proper planning, and neither does a great cut. Throughout this special cutting edition of Salon Magazine, you’ll find countless tips, tricks, tools and techniques on how to be the best haircutter you can be. However, I can’t take credit for all the fabulous stories and articles in these pages. The staff here was instrumental in pulling together the editorial for the April issue before I came on board, so a special thanks must be extended for all their hard work. As for me, I’m looking forward to diving right in and getting my hands dirty, as I’ve been a lover of this industry for as long as I can remember. Before venturing into the world of journalism, I had the privilege of viewing the beauty business through the eyes of a fashion model during my younger years. Travelling to international markets and checking out the latest trends were exciting ways to learn about the trade. One of my favourite experiences was being involved in a shoot for an Australian hair magazine when I was just 20 years old. Seeing all the preparation, imagination One of my first and effort that went into the shoot was a modelling jobs at defining moment for me—I too wanted to Fashion Cares in be part of that creativity and thought how 1998 was featured great it would be to work for a beauty in Salon Magazine. publication one day. Fast forward to the present and I’m delighted to join the Salon Magazine team. I’m eager to connect with you readers, so feel free to drop me a line at emily@beautynet.com. I look forward to hearing from you!

Emily Gravelle Editor

salon > april 10

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PHOTO BABAK, HAIR AND MAKEUP LIZ ROBERTSON

New Beginnings I

salon52.ca

3/4/10 4:11:24 PM

NEW COVER FUSION THE FASHION YOU LOVE. THE COVERAGE YOU NEED.

Seen in the front row of New York Fashion Week: Multi-dimensional haircolor now with 100% gray coverage. Experience Cover Fusion, the new low-ammonia, low-odor haircolor that covers gray and revitalizes hair. Available in 19 naturally reflective shades.

HIGH COVERAGE DYES = NATURALLY REFLECTIVE COVERAGE CATIONIC CONDITIONING POLYMERS & RICE PROTEIN = SUPERIOR CONDITIONING ARGAN OIL ANTIOXIDANT = OPTIMAL DEFENSE

50 YEARS INSPIRING THE PROFESSIONAL EDGE

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 19 issue 5

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor

Emily Gravelle > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | emily@beautynet.com group ART DIRECTor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com editor-in-chief (FRENCH)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com managing Editor

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com associate editor

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com designer

Elizabeth DiSilvestre > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | elizabeth@beautynet.com

editorial intern

Pay the Price

aising prices is certainly a sensitive topic. No one dislikes increasing its prices more than the professional beauty industry. I’ve been in salons where raising prices has almost caused a revolt. Why is that? Do you perceive the relationship with clients as more personal than business? Some questions are begging to be asked. What about the value of your services? Are beauty pros selling themselves short? Have the prices kept up with the economy? From my vantage point, I think not. I’ve seen the cost of some items increase by 300 per cent in 20 years, but not salon services. There are many examples of prices going up over the years. My favourite is the cup of coffee. Not that long ago a coffee was about one dollar. Now we are easily shelling out three or four dollars. But the coffee shop experience has changed alongside the price; the “cool places” have nice décor, comfy leather chairs, great music, WIFI, and your server is now called a barista! On page 48, our editors have tackled the delicate topic of price increases. Regular price increases are critical to any business, since cost of goods rises regularly. Any good business owner knows price increases must be factored in. Otherwise, he or she will be operating at a loss over a period of time. Most clients understand the principles of price increases, as they experience it every day with various goods and services. For the few who balk, don’t worry—you know in your heart you’ve delivered a good service and good value. Onto some in-house changes here at Salon. Morella Aguirre has moved over to our sister cosmetic enhancement magazine, Elevate. Be sure to pick up the May/June issue of Elevate to see the magic she delivers to its pages. In the meantime, I’d like to welcome our new editor, Emily Gravelle. Although Emily is new to the salon world, she’s had close ties to and has been a long-time fan of the professional beauty industry.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

senior staff writer

Pam Fulford

copy Editor

Carla Gillis Contributors

Stan Byrne, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright publisher/PRESIDENT

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com Director of Sales & Business Development

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samanthaanobile1@gmail.com Sales Associate

Alice Ardal > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | alice@beautynet.com production manager

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com circulation manager

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca Finance

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com cHAIRMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vice-president & West coast editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

Subscription rates For Canada 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GST included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for US 1 year (8 issues) $50USD a ddr ess c ha n ge s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

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Phone: 905.729.1288

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641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Hair Bill Rowley Photo BABAK

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Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton ON L0G 1A0 Canada

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This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in cana d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon > april 10

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salon52.ca what’s on

april 10

> JOICO - LE GRAPHIQUE > SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS 2010, VOL. 1, PURE > LA BIOSTHETIQUE BACKSTAGE 2010

straight to your inbox!

s52 blog

See the latest collections, ﬁnd out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign up today.

Check out salon52.ca/blog for the latest news and photos from guest bloggers Fabio Sementilli and Babak, and hair gossip, celebrity style, photos and the lowdown on salon politics.

s52 contests WANT A SHOT AT THE TREND VISION TITLE?

IT’S EASIER THAN EVER TO ENTER THE CONTESSAS!

Enter your Wella-inspired look on salon52.ca for a chance to compete at Trend Vision nationals in Toronto this fall!

It’s that time of year again! We want to make it as easy as possible for you to enter this fall’s Canadian Hairstylist of the Year awards so we’re making the entry form available exclusively online. Just head to salon52.ca/contessa for the form and crucial details related to the event!

GET INSPIRED ONCE AGAIN!

MAKEUP: RUDY MILES AND JANELL GEASON PHOTOS: MIGUEL REVERIEGO.

> AVEDA - SUBLIME

AVEDA HAIR: ALLEN RUIZ AND ERMINIO FIOCCA COLOUR: IAN MICHAEL BLACK

collections

CREATIVE DIRECTION: ANTOINETTE BEENDERS, VP CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

Want to see your work in Salon Magazine? ESSENSITY’s Inspired By Nature contest is back for another year! Visit salon52.ca to submit your nature inspired image. 24

salon > april 10

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1/25/10 2:48:13 PM 2/2/10 11:45:47 AM

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12/10/09 9:06:06 AM 12/10/09 10:42:48 AM

hairlines

celebrity

Jet Shag Kristen Stewart’s rock ’n’ roll cut makes her stand apart from the crowd

e’re used to seeing Kristen Stewart with high-schooler long, brown hair for her roles in Twilight, but recently she’s sported a punkier look preparing to play Joan Jett in the upcoming biopic The Runaways. Jett, best known for

keystone press agency

POLL

salon52.ca

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her anthem “I Love Rock ’N’ Roll,” rocked signature jet-black shoulder-length shag at the height of her career in the 80s. We give 20-year-old Stewart full points for mixing it up and embracing the edgy do, proving she’s not just another bubble-gum teen actress.

60%

of salon52.ca visitors prefer Kristen Stewart's long high-schooler Twilight locks than her edgy new mullet.

> Go

to salon52.ca today to weigh in on our latest polls.

april 10 < salon

3/5/10 4:34:50 PM

HAIRLINES

news

CLICK HERE

It’s that time of year again. Spring nears, and Contessa entry prep is already in full swing. We know that many of you will be looking to get all your ducks in a row as soon as possible, so for your convenience the entry form is available exclusively online at salon52.ca/contessa. Visit our website today for all the details. Plus, check out page 80 for expert tips on the best way to storyboard for your next Contessa entry. Best of luck!

John Paul DeJoria visits Canada for a nationwide tour this spring

Tour Time

rom May 17 to 21, John Paul “JP” DeJoria of John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) will come north of the border to visit 10 cities across Canada: Vancouver, Edmonton, Calgary, Regina, Saskatoon, Winnipeg, Toronto, Montreal, Halifax and St. John’s. This year marks the 30th anniversary for the company, and JP himself wanted to personally congratulate all the Canadian distributors on a stellar year in 09. He will also speak to stylists about the state of the industry and JPMS’s continued commitment to the professional hair care world. Each talk will run about 30 to 45 minutes, followed by an open question and answer period. For more info, visit paulmitchell.com or contact your local distributor.

App World

Get your iPhone working for your business life

iPhone users bond over their life-saving applications, but if you really want to impress your Apple-loving clients, share a beauty-related app with them. Skin concerns? The Dermalogica iPhone app is a quick way to get a personalized prescription: just input any skin concerns and watch it create a regimen. Soon, the app will be updated with a store locator and

salon > april 10

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product-range directory. Salon owners, stylists, colourists, nail techs and estheticians will also love the Personal Salon Assistant (PSA) iPhone app, which does everything from calculating colour formulations for Schwarzkopf Professional, Logics, Koleston, CHI and Goldwell to managing client appointments on the go. Find these apps in the iTunes store.

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3/4/10 6:50:38 PM

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3/4/10 7:14:19 PM

hairlines

news

Natural Instincts

’Oréal Professionnel is making its first foray into the green market with the new Série Nature line. Boasting all-natural, silicone-, paraben- and sulfate-free ingredients, the line is formulated to answer specific hair needs with the highest level of performance. Série Nature’s Cacao shampoo and masque boost fine and lifeless hair with cacao extract known for its revitalizing properties. A shampoo and masque for dry hair, Richesse features tomato

lycopene to counter free-radical activity that can damage the hair fibre. Douceur d’huiles for rebellious and unruly hair uses bran oil to soften and tone hair and olive oil for deep nourishment. Finally, Tendresse is a shampoo and cream for children, with key ingredient white peach enriched with vitamins to protect the softness of children’s delicate hair. It’s also hypoallergenic, doesn’t sting the eyes and has a lovely white peach and musk fragrance.

Come Together

A new line of hair care products extends its reach into Canada he hair markets in Alberta, Ontario and Manitoba will welcome a new line called Unite this May. The boutique line consists of 29 products and is divided into four comprehensive categories: cleanse, condition, style and finish. The line is 100 per cent vegan and paraben-, sulfate-, gluten- and sodium-chloride-free. Unite also views education as a top priority, which is why the company boasts an academy for advanced education in San Diego and Holland, and will branch out into both Canada and Britain later this year. For more info visit uniteeurotherapy.com.

salon > april 10

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salon52.ca

3/5/10 12:57:23 PM

WELLA is Are you tomorrow’s international hair styling star? Do you want to represent Canada at one of the world’s most prestigious hair competitions? Take the ﬁrst step today... Go to salon52.ca/trendvision and enter: submit one photo and complete the FREE and easy entry process. ENTRY DEADLINE: MAY 3RD CANADIAN WINNERS TRAIN WITH WELLA’S TOP STYLIST TEAM AND COMPETE LIVE IN PARIS, FRANCE!

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Join us for Trend Vision workshops across Canada Phone our Trend Vision hotline for more information: 1-800-267-1962 Please read rules and regulations, available online.

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3/4/10 7:25:28 PM

hairlines

news

tool of the month

Rowenta Beauty Infini Pro Dryer website rowentabeauty.ca

Features: 30 per cent more airflow means 20 per cent faster drying time • Ceramic heating element produces

Olympic Pride Redken for Men sponsors Olympic athletes

edken for Men is the official hair care product supplier and stylist for Olympic kayak athletes Andrew Willows and Richard Dober. The pair recently made an appearance at the Redken National Sales meeting. They will be sponsored by the brand in future competitions, with the Redken for Men logo appearing on their paddles. Redken for Men has also launched Clean Spice, a new 2-in-1 conditioning shampoo. Male clients will love the unique blend of cedar wood, warm spice and sparkling ginger, which refreshes the scalp with an invigorating masculine fragrance.

infrared heat to minimize damage • Magnetic screen vent for easy maintenance and cleaning • Features 1875W of power, two speeds and three heat settings

Rowenta Professional Titanium Ceramic Iron website rowentabeauty.ca

Features: Three heat settings (360°, 410°, 450°) • Plates are infused with titanium technology for durability, bacteriakilling properties and scratch resistance • Advanced ceramic heaters on both plates heat up quickly and maintain a consistent temperature for even results • An added safety feature, the Sleep Mode setting turns flatiron off after 60

Part of the Club Clubman Pinaud celebrates two centuries of producing men’s grooming products The internationally used and recognized men’s personal care line Clubman Pinaud will celebrate its bicentennial this year. Founded in 1810 by Edouard Pinaud in Paris, the company grew to become a household name by the 1900s, and now sells everything from talc, shaving creams and blades to soaps, shampoos and deodorants. Nowadays the trusted line is also used to prep and groom men in TV shows and movies, including Johnny Depp in Public Enemies and George Clooney in Michael Clayton and Leatherheads. Most recently it was featured in the controversial MTV reality show Jersey Shore.

salon > april 10

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minutes of non use

Rowenta Beauty 2 in 1 Ceramic Ionic Curling Iron website rowentabeauty.ca

Features: Converts from a 1 ¼-inch curling iron into a 1-inch flatiron • Adjustable temperature control from 280° to 400° F with a temperature lock to keep it at the selected heat setting during use • Ceramic plate and barrel produces infrared heat to condition hair while styling

www Win It!

Enter for a chance to win the Rowenta Beauty Infini Pro Dryer at salon52.ca. Giveaway runs April 2 to 16, 2010. salon52.ca

3/4/10 6:51:26 PM

2 very excitin g

BONACURE Rebuild beauty from within

contests!

BC hairtherapy relaunches March 1, 2010 with 2 EXCITING contests!!

Stylists... a prize pack valued at $10,000 is waiting for you! Your prize pack includes: Round-trip airfare and accommodations to LONDON, ENGLAND for 3 nights, $4000 in spending money and an education package at the Schwarzkopf Professional State of the Art Academy. For further details on how to enter, go to letyourhairBCeen.ca!

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But waitâ&#x20AC;Ś.we have an amazing contest for consumers too! The lucky winner will flaunt their locks on the streets of the big apple with a prize pack valued at $10,000! Your prize pack includes: Round-trip airfare and accommodations to NEW YORK CITY for 3 nights, $5,000 in spending money and a year supply of BC hairtherapy! Log on to letyourhairBCeen.ca to find out how you can win!

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www.letyourhairBCeen.ca Together. A passion for hair

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3/4/10 7:18:30 PM

hairlines

shelf life

Six new products your clients will love

Artistic Touch Offer a more customized manicure with CinaPro’s new Nail Art Pens. Available in five colours that you can use to draw tailored designs or create perfect French tips in no time. Info: cinapro.com

Royals Rule Expanding its manicure pedicure line, OPI is launching the Royal Verbena scrub, mask and massage lotion. The delicious scent is inspired by the crisp aroma of the verbena plant, and the soothing botanical and citrus extracts will leave clients feeling more than pampered. Info: opi.com

Straight Forward NP Group introduces a new Professional Hair Styling Iron that features nano silver technology, flexible floating 1-inch plates and a 360o swivel cord that’s 3 metres in length. Info: npgroup.ca

Spring Lineup Moroccanoil is releasing two new treatments for dry and oily scalps, a lighter version of its signature treatment for finer, colourtreated hair and a strong hold hairspray. These new products have got your clients all set from sink-side treatments to finishing touches. Info: moroccanoil.com

6 3

Skin Savers With three spring-inspired scents—Island Breezes, Lavender Fields and Citrus Blossoms—the new Ultra Moisturizers from Body Drench take your clients' skin from winter blah to summer ready. Info: bodydrench.com S

www • For more of the latest products check out salon52.ca

salon > april 10

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Photo Chris Tsintziras Text Melissa brazier

For the Fellas Addressing the needs of male clients, La Biosthetique intoduces two new products to its men’s skin care lineup. Calming Shave Gel soothes sensitive skin with ingredients like frankincense and aloe vera, while the Instant Toning Gel helps combat premature signs of aging. Info: labiosthetique.com

salon52.ca

3/4/10 6:53:49 PM

COLORIST. EDUCATOR. AUTHOR. SALON OWNER. INDUSTRY ICON. For over 25 years, Beth Minardi has been the industry’s undisputed authority on all things haircolor. As an educator, she inspires colorists around the world to elevate their work into an art form. As an author, she provides haircolor guidance with her DVDs, books, newsletters, and advice columns in Modern Salon and on behindthechair.com. As a salon owner and colorist, she has established the Minardi Salon in NYC as the global destination for beautiful color. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON BETH MINARDI OR VERO K-PAK COLOR, VISIT WWW. JOICO.COM OR SPEAK TO YOUR LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR ©2010 Joico® Laboratories, A division of Piidea Canada Ltd., Point Claire QC H9R 5N3

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joico.com

2/26/10 AM 3/4/10 10:36:51 7:14:42 PM

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3/4/10 9:38:10 PM

Cutting Edge Tools, tips, pricing and techniques: Your complete guide

rom the hottest trends in shears to a history lesson on the evolution of hairstyles, Salon Magazine brings you the 411 on everything you need to know about haircutting and more.

salon52.ca

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april 10 < salon

Hair: Ken Picton, Ken Picton Salon, Cardiff Bay,uk; maKeup: Victoria Brown; Wardrobe: Bernard Connolly; Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

cutting edge

3/4/10 5:02:33 PM

cutting edge

Sharpen Up

Whether you’re a student or a seasoned professional, we dish on finding the best shears for you

Craving something new…

“

y favourite shear at the moment is the Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear. Right now, the looks I’m cutting require larger sections of hair to be cut, so I need a larger, heavierweighted shear to cut cleanly through the mass of hair while still creating soft, gentle edges. I love these shears because they are versatile—they can be used on wet and dry hair—and the forward set thumb reduces repetitive stress injuries.” —Sam Villa, education artistic director for Redken and Chairman of Allvus LLC

“ 38

salon > april 10

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“

ith traditional shears, the cutting blade is on the top. The unique thing about the Kasho KGR 30T BB shear is that the blade is on the bottom, making the insertion of the blade into the hair much easier and more effective, with no binding before the cutting action resulting in a smoother edge. These shears are great for cuts where you are trying to establish some base texture for volume and movement, or if you want to remove weight from the base up. —Jack Noesgaard, performing artist, educator and owner of The Loft Salon, Whistler, BC

he Panther Ergo 6.0 is a new series with four models: 5 inch, 5.5 inch, 6.0 inch and 6.5 inch. All are ergonomically designed with offset handles and an angled thumb ring. Made with Japanese cobalt steel, they also have convex blades so the angles curve in at the top and bottom. There’s less friction and it creates a more finite edge.” —Stephen Pavlick, president of DWA (Red Deer) Ltd.

salon52.ca

3/4/10 5:38:12 PM

Just Learning…

“

ith the Kenchii Charmer Series, each design is a limited edition of 50 and is customized to the buyer’s wishes and comfort. The handles are made from sterling silver, and this particular pair has been custom-designed for a celebrity stylist who chose black onyx and rubies for the eyes of the snake and the added finger rest. But what also makes these shears special are the blades, which are level-five stainless steel with a blend of tungsten and vanadium for the smoothest cut possible.” —Amy Michleb, education co-ordinator, global sales manager, Kenchii Cutting Edge Shears and co-owner, marketing co-ordinator of Woody Michleb Hair Salon, Thornhill, ON

Make a statement…

here’s so much to consider when picking good shears. I always choose design of function over cosmetic design, but it is better if you can get both. My latest addition has been the 6 inch Joewell FX-PRO 60. I prefer a longer shear to accommodate my larger hand, and the handle has a twist in the design that’s key to having your hand in a proper, natural position. But the cool factor is that this season Joewell has launched the Skull Edition, which has great design, functionality and just the right amount of flash!” —Ivan Gibski, director of Flaunt Boutique, Toronto

e include the Monarch 50 shears in our kits. Any mid-grade scissor will do for students. The reason I say that is because they are going to be using them for human and mannequin hair, and mannequin hair can be harder on the scissors. Normally I will recommend that if they purchase a good pair of scissors they use it only on clients. We’ve been using the Monarchs for close to 20 years and they cut without bending the hair. It gives students a very precise cut and its comfortable to use. We recommend a 5.5 inch scissor (the industry standard) as it’s versatile for a wide range of techniques.” —Mark Avola, director of Avola College of Hairstyling and Esthetics , Toronto

“

he reason we use the Cricket S3 Series is because it’s a highend shear, so students can go right from school to salon. By spending a little more on the shear now, it saves them money in the long run. Also it’s not a serrated shear, but rather a smooth, carbon blade, which allows students to sharpen them if they need to. The philosophy at Marca College is that a higher-end shear allows you to be more versatile. You can slide and taper cut a lot easier through the hair, there’s no pulling and the shear runs through smoothly.” —Joe Chimenti, president of Marca College Hair and Esthetics, Toronto and Mississauga t

“

salon52.ca

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april 10 < salon

3/4/10 5:38:30 PM

cutting edge

Take Care

Extend the lifespan of your shears with these easy tips from the owner of Xtreme Edge Sharpening, Pitt Meadows, BC, Todd Laberge

• On a daily basis, clean your shears, put a few drops of oil in the pivot area to keep them lubricated and check and set the tension.

• Store your shears in a closed position in a secure leather case, which will allow free airflow and moisture to dissipate thereby reducing the chances of rusting. In addition, always insert one shear per slot.

• Working with dull shears can cause problems like repetitive strain injury, carpal tunnel, inferior hair-

cuts and split ends. Depending on the quality and usage of your shears, it’s essential to have them serviced every six to eight months by a qualified scissor technician. Hint: if your shears were not sharpened properly, they will push or fold the hair and you will not get a precise cut.

Sizzling Shears Will Canadian salons warm up to thermal cuts?

The Jaguar ThermoCut 400 system.

97%

of salon52.ca visitors polled have never used thermal or heated scissors.

> Go

to salon52.ca today to weigh in on our

Text Stan Byrne

latest polls.

hermo scissors have been on the market for over a decade, but Canadian salons and clients are just catching onto the popular European trend now. Created by German engineers in the late 90s, the thermo scissor system was initially a daunting expense for stylists and salons. “Over the years, the system has become smaller, more manageable and more reasonably priced,” says Thomas Sessler, managing director of Jaguar, makers of the Jaguar ThermoCut system. By warming the blades, thermo scissors use heat to seal moisture in the hair ends, creating a healthier, fuller look. According to Sessler, with the tips closed, hair is not as susceptible to environmental damage and split ends. The temperature on the blades can be adjusted for hair type, with fine hair needing less heat than normal or thick hair. ThermoCut Systems, which typically include thinning scissors and razors scissors, are used on towel-dried hair and are ergonomically designed like regular shears. One of the first Canadian proponents of thermo cuts, Marina Boukin, creative director and co-owner of multi-location Caprice Salon and Spa in Toronto, saw an opportunity with the heated blades. “I had a large European clientele who knew the advantages of thermo cutting…We have a number of clients who are not willing to return to traditional scissors because they see better results and the benefits of this service,” says Boukin. For her salon, thermo scissors have been a great investment. Boukin says, “We do not strive to replace regular haircuts. For us, the thermo cut is another tool to deliver the best results that we can achieve for each particular client. It’s a great addition to our treatment menu.”

salon > april 10

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salon52.ca

3/5/10 3:27:32 PM

Elevate your Professional Life with Great Lengths® What better time than the present to expand your career and become a Certified Great Lengths® Extension Artist? Great Lengths® has remained in the forefront and its cutting edge technology continues to keep up with advancements in the gentle processing of hair, ensuring that our hair is unmatched for quality, availability and dependability.

TORONTO April 18–19 | May 16–17 – CLASSIC 3200 May 30–31 – COLD FUSION 5000 MONTREAL April 11–12 – CLASSIC 3200 May 30–31 – COLD FUSION 5000 QUEBEC May 2–3 – CLASSIC 3200 REGINA May 30–31 – CLASSIC 3200 EDMONTON April 11–12 – CLASSIC 3200 VANCOUVER April 11–12 – COLD FUSION 5000

Call 800.461.9302 or visit greatlengthscanada.com for certification opportunities nearest you BEFORE

UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS

This could be your year to break into the world of Great Lengths® — all it takes is a phone call to request an information package that will explain what Great Lengths® can offer you for a future of unlimited creativity, career satisfaction and opportunities to grow and prosper. Don’t waste another day — call us and speak to one of our customer service consultants to see how you too can become a Certified Great Lengths® Extension Artist.

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths® Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@greatlengthscanada.com.

041.se.a10.greatlengths.1.indd 1

3/4/10 7:21:07 PM

cutting edge

Scissor Happy Whether for demonstrating incredible deft and skill on stage or for developing and mastering a complete education program that has stylists across North America lining up, Salon Magazine singles out three stylists for their innovative approaches to haircutting Right now, you can find Paul Mitchell’s 5.5 inch and 6.0 inch shears in Kitamura’s tool belt.

The Showman Who: Takashi Kitamura, art director for A Robert Cromeans Salon

By Tina Christopoulos

orld-renowned for his lightningspeed cutting techniques, Takashi Kitamura inspires jaw-dropping reactions with his stage presentations. The technique he calls ”stroking” is based on creating a texture in between a blunt scissor cut and an edgy razor cut. “Born out of the Sassoon epidemic of razor cutting, to me stroking came from a necessity to create the result of a razor cut while catering to the Japanese texture of hair,” he says. “I originally learned the stroking technique from my boss in Japan. He showed

me wet stroking, and as I grew as a stylist, I started to stroke the hair dry as well and really personalized my own style.” Born into a hairstyling family, this soft-spoken stylist has changed the way we address haircutting by teaching us how to have a great relationship between wet hair and scissor and then tailoring the shape with groundbreaking dry techniques. “When I am stroking on wet hair, I have more control and I can cut hair more blunt,” he explains. “Stroking on dry hair gives an instant result.” What does he deem a good

haircut? “The most important thing to me is balance. Any haircut can be good, as long as it looks expensive to me. From a super funky haircut to long sexy layers to a classic square bob on just the right person who can carry it and looks great, that is a good haircut to me.” Most known for his incredible stage presence, Kitamura says, “I do love to do hair on stage. I enjoy the rush that comes from the pressure to perform well and cut great hair, and I also enjoy the high I get from cutting hair in front of an audience.”

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1926: The severe “Eton crop” became popular as a short, slicked-back style. Entertainer Josephine Baker was one of the few to sucessfully wear the Eton, named for its similarity with a cut popular amongst Eton schoolboys.

1950s: While the fringe has been more or less in fashion since the 1900s, silver screen darling Audrey Hepburn helped make it the must-have accessory, with her short, blunt, irregular bangs, which she debuted in Roman Holiday.

1963: The bob resurfaced in the 60s with Vidal Sassoon’s emphasis on the cut. Mary Quant’s slick variation on the bob focused on precise, blunt lines and heavy or asymmetric fringes. Women’s hair moved naturally for the first time in years. t

1909: Inspired by Joan of Arc Parisian hairstylist Antoine invented the famous bob. Early film stars like Louise Brooks— whose bob featured thick straight bangs and sleek sides framing her face—helped popularize the look.

Text: subha arulvarathan; iconic photos: keystone press agency

Iconic Cuts: The Last 100 Years

salon52.ca

3/5/10 1:01:38 PM

why Kevin? KEVIN.MURPHY products are paraben- and sulphatefree, made from renewable and sustainable resources where ever possible and use pure and natural ingredients. The hands-on education is interactive with a focus on executing the red carpet and editorial looks that your clients want. Learn tricks of the trade from worldrenowned session artists.

what’s new with Kevin?

where’s Kevin?

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See one of the world’s most innovative session stylists in a city near you!

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April 25 & 26th: Felicity Davis for kevin.murphy. Winnipeg ABA Show, Winnipeg, MB Sept 19 & 20th: 2-day kevin.murphy educational retreat. Blue Mountain, Collingwood, ON See Kevin demonstrating his skills in podcasts at fashionmagazine.com

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Alberta, Saskatchewan & Manitoba

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3/4/10 7:04:45 PM

cutting edge

The Tool Man

oseph Gossen truly is a jack of all trades. A hairstylist since 1985, he’s honed his skills in many facets of the beauty industry, whether as a salon owner, artist on stage or photographer. He joined Quebec distributor Star Bédard as creative director a few years ago, working closely with marketing and education on developing innovative concepts like Star Prestige, Visionnaire and Club Voltage. The latter program is specifically designed to walk stylists through the complicated world of hairstyling tools. Innovative in its approach, and with no particular brand attached to the classes, its objective is to teach stylists how to use the appropriate tool for the desired result. It’s no wonder this handyman developed his own cutting technique when he was creating a new look for one his collections. “While I was trying to achieve a specific finish, neither shears nor texturizers

1966: The seminal cut for Twiggy (née Lesley Hornby) by Leonard Lewis helped propel the waifish model as the face of 1966. The haircut was a new interpretation of the Eton Crop, with a side part finishing off the look.

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were giving me what I wanted,” he explains. “A razor was the closest I was getting, but it was still too homogenized. I needed a similar feel, though much less defined. As I was playing with two different razors like drumsticks, I just happened to interlock the two, and voilà I started spinning it freely in the air and said to myself, ”Why not?”” And so was born the Featherspin technique, designed to create very specific movement in long hair without creating layers. “It’s not something that can be done with standard or specialty shears,” says Gossen. “The rotational effect allows the razor to create personalized texture based on how the stylist applies the technique.” The method, which requires you to have two razors, works best on medium- to coarse-textured hair, but any hair from straight to wavy to curly will definitely benefit from it.

1967: Vidal Sassoon also cemented his place as an innovator when he flew to the US to cut Mia Farrow’s hair into a very short crop on set for the film Rosemary’s Baby. This was later dubbed the “$5,000 haircut.”

How to master the technique: 1. Take the main razor, which will be rotating and effectively cutting the hair in one hand, and make sure the teeth are facing up. 2. Hold razor number two (this is your rotation base and therefore needs no blade) and insert through the loophole of razor number one, making sure the blade end is in your hand. 3. Hold razor number two and extend your thumb to support and push razor number one against the loophole. 4. Elevate your client’s head so that the hair falls back slightly. If your desired result is natural texture, separate with fingers. For a more graphic effect, use a comb and smooth hair prior to starting. 5. As you rotate the razor, pivot back and forth from side to side to create even texture.

1974: The first cut to appear on the cover of Vogue, Trevor Sorbie’s wedge consisted of a side parting and floppy fringe that was swept to the back, then dyed dark underneath to emphasize the effect of contrast.

1976: Hugh York and Allen Edwards have been credited with developing Farrah Fawcett’s trademark—her longlayered, feathered shag. This highlighted style became the must-have look for every woman.

Gossen uses the Kasho Designing razor since its design allows for smooth circular movements.

Who: Joseph Gossen, creative director, Star Bédard, platform artist and spokesperson, MUK

salon52.ca

3/5/10 1:02:51 PM

From Backstage to the Runway Models strutting the runway help transform a designer’s vision into something covetable, and Rowenta Beauty does the same with a hairstylist’s handiwork.

As the Official Hair Tool Provider for Fashion Weeks across Canada, Rowenta tests its new-to-come tools with stylists working behind-the-scenes. Their feedback helps refine and redesign Rowenta’s luxury hair appliances. Already the official provider for garment care, thanks to its arsenal of irons and steamers, Rowenta’s tools will help the best of Canadian hair talent achieve runway-ready results.

The looks on the 2010 spring runway are mostly composed of two elements: the polished looks of the 50s meet contemporary texture. Create 50s soft waves with the 2 in 1 Straight n Curl:

“ Using the Rowenta Beauty ‘2 in 1 Ceramic Curling Iron’, weave the hair in and around each plate by creating an S-Shape to achieve soft supple waves.” – Luigi Rosi SPA Orazio

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3/5/10 2:49:00 PM

Collection: Urban Retro; Hair: Kathy Simon; Colour: Melanie Dubreuil Makeup: Elisabeth Alarie; Wardrobe: Melanie Garcia; Photo: Stephen Taylor

cutting edge

The Teacher Who: Kathy Simon, North American Essential Looks ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional Simon’s scissors of preference are Yasaka shears.

1980s: With the improvement of cutting tools, asymmetrical cuts became popular. Cuts also became more “masculine” as proven by style icon Grace Jones, who rocked her distinctive look, the love child of a quiff and a flat top.

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1990: Sinéad O’Connor made headlines when she reached number-one with her hit single “Nothing Compares 2 U” and this shaved look, which is not something every woman could pull off.

visual structures stem from a basic patterned frame and balanced aesthetic. These patterns are the support and direction needed for a consistent and technically creative execution of any threedimensional artwork or design. The Mekka System combines the formal principles of design that have been followed by artists and architects throughout the centuries with an understanding of how to consistently personalize these principals for the individual client. Before joining Schwarzkopf Professional, Simon honed her skills working as a stylist and educator for the internationally renowned Vidal Sassoon in London, England, as well as artistic director and educator for Suki’s Academy in Vancouver. This experience, combined with her drive to continuously improve upon what she’d learned, led to the creation of this innovative system.

1995: Dubbed “the Rachel cut,” Jennifer Aniston’s faceframing, layered shag was created by Los Angeles hairstylist Chris McMillan, and became the most popular hairstyle to sweep the States since Farrah Fawcett’s famous do.

2000s: The versatile bob has made a comeback with Rihanna’s asymmetrical approach. Noteworthy bobs also include Katie Holmes’s softer take with optional bangs and Victoria Beckham’s graduated bob. t

side from being in charge of the cutting training for the Canadian and American Essential Looks teams, Kathy Simon spends her time travelling across North America to teach her innovative cutting system, The Mekka System Of Education. “We believe that as artists we will never truly be capable of excellence without the complete understanding and mastery of the basic language of geometry,” says Simon. Incorporating the timeless principles of geometry with an understanding of how to apply them, the Mekka System teaches hairstylists how to design and create haircuts that work with the unique architecture of an individual’s head shape. The system teaches simple yet sophisticated geometry and structural design principles based on the understanding that all

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3/5/10 1:05:02 PM

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cutting edge

The Price is Right

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Once the reason for the boost in price is determined, the next step is to determine the amount. Although price increases will vary depending on the salon, 10 to 20 per cent seems to be industry standard. “Your increase should not scare clients away. Regardless of who your clients may be, no one likes to feel like they are being ripped off, so know when to draw the limit,” says Pacheco. Gagliardi adds that price increases should be addressed at least bi-annually and aligned with your cost of goods’ increase. Wendy Betts, owner of Q Hair Design in Edmonton, says that at her salon, “the price of a haircut is raised once a year by a small amount instead of a large increase with a longer time in between.” Next, the salon should come up with a plan of action for telling clients about the increase. All of our experts agree that giving clients plenty of notice and time to adjust is key. When two of Pacheco’s stylists graduated from the blowdry bar to the cutting room, for example, they gave clients a solid 60 days notice. Betts says, “We notify the clients with mirror talkers about the minimal increase six weeks in advance. If clients questions it, we react without anxiety and that eases their minds.” Another big fear in raising the price of a cut is the potential loss of clients. Pacheco says, “If you are good at what you do, treat your clients well and can justify your modest price increase, then I don’t think you should experience much havoc. That being said, different people have different budgets, so have a junior stylist or colourist available in order to give your clients options.” t

oney can be a sensitive topic, which is exactly why raising the price of a haircut should always be handled in a gentle, delicate manner. The first step is the salon owner and stylist needs to assess why the price increase is happening, which will eventually make it easier to explain to clients. Helen Hooper, founder of Helen Hooper Consulting Inc., says, “Every stylist wants to earn more money, but performance is what should constitute an increase in the cost of the service to the client. If a stylist, for example, is fully booked or 100 per cent committed every hour they are in the salon for three consecutive months, we then justify a 10 per cent increase in cost of services.” Gianni Gagliardi, business development consultant for Venus Beauty Supplies, says price increases can be based on myriad factors. In the Venus Profitability Program, a stylist must track at a certain number of clients, referrals and retail dollars consistently over a period of six months in order to justify price increase. Enhancing the calibre of the salon can also signal an increase, like major renovations or raising the level of services like specialty coffees and a treatment pre/post service. Other elements to consider are location, whether you carry basic or high-end products, stylists’ education levels and the cost of inflation. When asked how a salon owner or stylist knows for certain whether he or she ready to raise his or her prices, Luis Pacheco of Toronto’s Hair on the Avenue states simply, “When they honestly feel their level of expertise and service can aptly justify the increase.”

Text Melissa brazier, photo credit Hair: Ken Picton, Ken Picton Salon, Cardiff Bay,uk; maKeup: Victoria Brown; Wardrobe: Bernard Connolly; Photos: Andrew O’Toole

Is it about time you raised the cost of a haircut in your salon? Read on for a complete guide to the do’s and don’ts of increasing your prices

salon52.ca

3/5/10 1:06:24 PM

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cutting edge

Grace Coddington, now Vogue art director, modelling one of Sassoon's definitive cuts in the 1960s.

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3/4/10 5:54:56 PM

A Cut Ahead c Collection: Futuricity Hair: Mark Hayes, Sassoon International Creative direction: Sassoon International Creative Team Photos: Lachlan Bailey

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You’d be nowhere without Sassoon's bob and five-point cut

lose to 50 years ago Vidal Sassoon created the bob, and with that geometric cut, which put faith in the beauty of undressed hair, cutting was changed forever. “Vidal pioneered the concept of the geometric method of cutting,” explains Sassoon international creative director Mark Hayes, who began his career at Sassoon 33 years ago. “The technique was based on cutting hair to bone structure and, for the first time, treating hair like organic material to be cut, shaped and sculpted around the head.” For a society accustomed to very stiff, severe styles that required regular salon visits for hair to be teased, backcombed and adhered into place, this was a completely novel idea. “It was an era of hairdressing,” explains Traci Sakosits, regional creative director for Sassoon Academy. “This technique was also revolutionary because it turned hairstylists into haircutters.” Theoretically speaking, the Sassoon cutting philosophy stemmed from the Bauhaus idea of form follows function. “Vidal adopted an architectural approach to hair design with straight, clean lines helping to, in his words, ‘get rid of the superfluous,’” explains Hayes. This idea helps inform the signature techniques (represented today by the Sassoon ABCs): lines, graduation and layering. Lines, introduced in the early 60s, was the

By Anupa Mistry initial concept, and debuted on actress Nancy Kwan in 1963. Her image was published all over the world. Later that decade, internal geometry was introduced and Sassoon created the now iconic “five-point cut.” The bohemian, flowing styles of the 70s informed the final technique: layering. “It was successful because it summed up the mood of the time,” muses Hayes. The Sassoon name is synonymous with cutting based on this highly technical approach. “Vidal created a system of cutting hair that could be used over and over again,” says Sakosits. “It’s a precision technique applied to hair that makes it easy to manage in a very modern way.” And what was once a method is now a philosophy, explains Hayes. “It relies on mastery of technique and an innate feeling for the individual. The approach is logical and modern, stunning in its simplicity and totally relevant to society today as more and more people want low-maintenance hair.” Sassoon has continued to evolve, introducing colour techniques to accentuate cutting. In light of catering to a consumer-friendly market, the company produces three hairstylist-focused Academy collections per year and two Salon collections, helping translate technical, avant garde looks into something more client-friendly. And they continue to focus on education to help hairstylists at any level strengthen their technical and visual cutting and colour skills. S april 10 < salon

3/5/10 1:09:35 PM

Green Pioneers In light of April being Earth Month, we take a look at what companies are doing to be more eco-friendly

By Stan Byrne

or the past few years, Joico has quietly and radically changed the way its products are manufactured, packaged and shipped. Joico and its parent company, Zotos, have not only become green leaders in the beauty industry but also inspiration to businesses across North America that want to be more environmentally friendly. “For Joico, it is about changing the way we look at things, and less about making an organic line or one product that is environmentally friendly,” says Nataly Avila, marketing manager of Vero K-Pak Color. At the Joico plant in Geneva, New York, the company has assessed the environmental impact of tractor-trailer transportation. The plant overhauled the shipping schedule and built a rail spur to reduce gas emissions and save over 40,000 gallons of oil. And that’s only the tip of the iceberg. By April 2010, all Joico packages will be 70 to 80 per

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cent post-consumer recycled (PCR) material. “The innovative technology uses new plastic on the inside so that it does not interfere with the product, and new plastic on the outside so it still looks pretty. In the middle is PCR material,” says Avila. The Geneva plant also upgraded to energy-efficient lighting and reduced energy consumption at the plant by 70 per cent. Joico also cut down on water use by five per cent and implemented a wastewater treatment strategy to help prevent harmful chemicals from entering the water table. In 2009, Joico partnered with the city of Geneva to build a wind turbine. By 2011, all Joico products will be manufactured with 100 per cent renewable energy, and the extra energy created by the wind turbine will be diverted back to the citizens of Geneva. “It is definitely a different type of company that wants to be part of the

community. Joico and ISO want to have only a positive impact on the community,” says Avila. When asked why Joico is taking a vested interest in such eco iniatives, Avila says, “It is the little changes we can all make that make a big impact. It isn’t about attracting clients or customers; it is about doing the right thing. The real cost in going environmentally friendly is educating yourself, and that only takes time.” Also on the forefront of the green movement is Pureology. The brand has partnered with Green Cross International, a company mandated to act as a Global Environmental Security Organization. The goal of this partnership is to promote awareness through fundraising initiatives and assistance from salons, stylists and consumers nationwide. The PureGreen campaign addresses two main issues: the climate change in the Arctic and access to

potable water in the event of a natural disaster, like the recent earthquake in Haiti. On a manufacturing level, currently all of Pureology’s shampoo and conditioner bottles are 25 per cent PCR. However, as part of the company’s ongoing product sustainability development project, they will increase the PCR 50 to 100 per cent in all packaging across the board. In addition, Pureology has aligned itself with the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), a non-government, not-for-profit organization that was established to promote the responsible management of the world’s forests. As a direct result of this partnership, Pureology will also use up to 100 per cent FSCapproved stock in all boxes. S

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• For more on what beauty companies are doing to help save the earth, check out salon52.ca.

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3/4/10 5:43:52 PM

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BeautIful Contributions In the aftermath of Haitiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s devastating earthquake, the world sprung to action, raising funds and volunteering to help with relief efforts. And the beauty industry was no different. Here, Salon Magazine recognizes our industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s incredible generosity by outlining the initiatives taken by salons, manufacturers and distributors. We hope this will serve as both inspiration to the beauty community and offer tips on how you can help. It is imperative to remember that the road to rebuilding Haiti has only just begun.

Disclaimer: As of the publishing date, these were the companies who had contacted Salon Magazine about contributions to Haiti relief. If your business has taken some initiatives, be sure to let us know!

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AG Hair Cosmetics  Within a few days of the earthquake, employees of the Canadian hair care company made contributions to Haitian relief.  Recipient: Humanitarian Coalition Artist Choice A team of professionals from the Artist Choice Academy, including David Hillis salon, Donato Salons and more participated in a three-day cut- and colour-a-thon to raise funds for Haiti. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross Aura Hair Group  This Manitobaand British Columbia-based 12-salon chain donated $1 from each haircut on Jan. 30. Various items donated by Passion Beauty Supply will also be sold and donated in full, along with donations taken in salon. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross   Beauty Systems Group  This Ontario distributor donated Tim Horton’s treats and invited its entire office building to purchase them for $1 each, the proceeds of which were donated. BSG also held raffles and a PJ day. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross   Blo Bar  Contessa winner and manager of Toronto’s Blo Bar, Jessica Marie Ellison, used her winnings ($500 US from CND) to purchase and make “Heart for Haiti” kits containing Canadian products. Kits were sold up to Valentine’s Day, and the profits from this, as well as a portion of Feb. 14 sales, were donated. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross Blonde Salon  Stylists at this busy Toronto salon hosted a complimentary treatment and blow-dry night on Jan. 27 and donated $300 worth of tips to Haiti relief. Recipient: Canadian Coalition for Haiti   Chatters  stylists A Thunder Bay, ON, location raised funds for the Salvation Army. A group of franchise-owned salons in BC and Regina donated $2 from every haircut to the Haitian Relief Fund, and stylists from Chatters St. John’s donated their tips from Jan. 18 to Jan. 29.   Comox Valley Stylists from this Vancouver Island community hosted a cut-a-thon on Feb. 6 at a local beauty school. Salons

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will also donate gift baskets to other community events to generate funds. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross Creekside Salon  Donations were collected at this Roberts Creek, BC salon. The team also helped promote a local community music event/auction for Haiti held on Jan. 27.   DBK Salon & Spa On Feb. 7 the team of 37 staff members from DBK volunteered to help raise funds and L’Oréal Professionnel, KPSS, Venus Beauty Supplies and Sopar Cosmetics also donated gift baskets. Evolve The Evolve brand has been involved with the United Nations World Food Programme since the early 2009. The company continues its support this year with their Fill the Cup Project. In the wake of the devastation in Haiti, the WFP has been a key player in providing much-needed relief. Head Organics Head Organics donated a dozen nine-product sets for a silent auction put on by blogger This Mama Rocks. Recipient: American Red Cross Hedkandi Salons  Twenty stylists from two locations of this Calgary salon donated their time for an evening event on Feb. 20, offering $40 haircuts. All money raised was donated. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross Henkel/Schwarzkopf Professional Henkel has donated 20,000 Euros ($30,000 USD) via the Henkel Friendship Initiative to aid Germany’s non-profit association International Search and Rescue, which has sent trained teams to Haiti to help. As the situation stabilizes, Henkel also plans to donate product. InI Hair Design  This Toronto salon donated proceeds from the sales of hand- and nail-care packages, a percentage of profits from Valentine’s weekend services and retail sales, and collections from a Red Cross bucket. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross Katana Shears  From the beginning of Feb. to March 31, 2010, $10 from the purchase of every scissor will be donated to

relief efforts in Haiti. Recipient: World Vision Canada L’Oréal Canada  In keeping with the Canadian government’s initiative to match dollar for dollar donations, L’Oréal Canada matched all employee donations made before Feb. 15, 2010. Marca College  The Saskatoon campus of MC College provided hair and esthetics services on Sunday, Jan. 31. The proceeds from this day of pampering were donated. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross Megahair Family  The Megahair Family of salons set up donation boxes in each location. The company will also match all donations it receives. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross   Milady  Cengage Learning, Milady’s parent group, is contributing $100, 000 to Haitian relief efforts. The donations will be split equally between UNICEF and Red Cross International. The company also provides a dollar-for-dollar match for employee donations made to charitable organizations, up to $500 per employee, per fiscal year.  Nisim International  Twenty-five per cent of online sales for a onemonth period were directed to an organization Nisim worked with following the Boxing Day tsunami and Hurricane Katrina. Nisim also plans to donate shampoo for ongoing relief efforts. Recipient: Direct Relief International.    ONEXONE ONEXONE, Redken’s long-time partner charity has sent to Haiti approximately 120,000 lbs of medicine, medical equipment, water, tents and other necessities. Most was donated by partners, such as PepsiCo Canada, Canadian Tire, Apotex, Rogers Communications, The Bay and Air Canada. ONEXONE has also raised money for long-term relief. P&G In Haiti since 2004, the P&G Fund and Children’s Safe Drinking Water Fund are providing cash donations to disaster relief groups, including World Vision, CARE and PSI. The initial response included at least 3 million packets of PUR Purifier of Water, creating 30 million litres of safe drinking water for 170,000 people for 90 days.

P&G products will also be shipped when partners confirm needs. The company will also match a global employee donation option of up to a total of $250,000. Pureology Even before officially launching the PureGreen partnership with Green Cross Canada, Pureology raised sufficient funds to install a small well in a Haitian village. This is part of the company’s ongoing commitment to the Consequences of Disaster projects of Green Cross Canada. Pure Hair Inc. A portion of January’s revenues were donated to Save the Children, an organization that races to provide immediate life-saving assistance, such as food, water, shelter and child-friendly spaces. Saje Salon.Spa.Wellness  This Appleton, ON, salon contributed gift baskets to local fundraisers, and held a fundraising in-salon. The business matched the total received by Valentine’s Day weekend.  Recipient: Canadian Red Cross   Salon J Hair Studio  This Sidney, BC, salon donated the profits of a cut-a-thon on Feb. 7, which had a suggested donation price of $25. Recipient: Canadian Foundation for the Children of Haiti Silver Scissors & Emerald Spa  Staff from the Corner Brook, NL, salon and spa gave up their tips for a day and encouraged clients to donate. They collected $500.  Recipient: Canadian Red Cross   The Lounge Hair Studio  The staff at this busy Vancouver salon sent out e-mail notifications and created promotional material for the salon advising customers that 10 per cent of retail sales will be donated to Haitian Relief. Recipient: Canadian Red Cross   Uvalux  Uvalux Tanning & Support raised money for Friends of the Orphans Canada. From Jan. 12 to Feb. 12, Friends of the Orphans Canada has sent $280,000 in emergency funds to Haiti with the help of Uvalux Tanning & Support and its subsidiary companies to help buy medicine and food. Last year, through its orphanages and hospitals, the organization helped roughly 30,000 Haitians. S

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Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s get digital Schwarzkopf Professional launches Pure, the first of its biannual Essential Looks trends

Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

his year, SKPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artistic team seems to be inspired by minimalism, so it makes sense that they would name their twice-yearly trend collections Pure. Seen here is Cyber, one of six trends included in the first presentation of Pure. This is disconnection at its prettiest. Short, rounded cuts in bold, wearable shades showcase extreme layers, and even when a cut is playfully tousled it still manages to look sleek. There are five other trends in this collection! Visit salon52.ca/collections to view them all.

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Collection: Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks 2010, Vol.1, Pure

Artistic direction: Steve Hogan Hair: Tom Kroboth Colour: Lesley Lawson & Kay Brady Makeup: Stelli Wardrobe: Ingo Nahrwold Photos: Tony Kim S

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Grape Pop

Sugar High

Something Sweet

Light As Air

Heli-Yum

Flyin’ High

Four Leaf Clover

Re-Fresh MInt

Peachy Keen

High Hopes

Happy Go Lucky

Lemon Fizz

Model is wearing “Grape Pop”

12 Luxurious New Crèmes

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From Paris, with Love A look for every woman in La Biosthetique’s latest collection Te x t b y S u b h a A r u l v a r a t h a n

a Biosthetique’s 2010 Backstage collection draws upon the romantic vision we all have of Paris (a.k.a. the City of Love) and turns it into a vivacious celebration of individuality. The collection consists of six signature looks: Blonde to celebrate the elegant femininity of French cinema, Bruit Metallique inspired by the club generation, Chaleur to represent soft sensuality, Raw Energy to embody the idea of contrasts, Rouge to exude the life and energy of the metropolis and Tweedy to signify the carefree spirit of the 60s. All of these looks in combination seek to address the varying personalities and lives of women worldwide. From elegant, refined cuts to bold colours and untamed hair, there’s guaranteed to be a look for every woman who sits in your chair.

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Collection: Backstage 2010 Art direction: Patrick Roppel Hair: StĂŠphane Gallien, Sam Bonte, Marc Riese, JĂśrg Zimmer and Alexander Dinter Makeup: Steffen Zoll Wardrobe: Dawn Cleis Production: Peter Cleis Photos: Pierluigi Macor and Daphne Bengoa S

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The Stylish Choice.

The Educated Choice. Professional features inside, stylish design outside, beautiful results all the time.

the exclusive distributor of Mega HotÂŽ products. Find out more at www.belsonproducts.com

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2/2/10 11:44:33 AM

The Bold and the Beautiful

Joico makes avant garde hair marketable

Te x t b y S u b h a A r u l v a r a t h a n

nspired by the iconic lifework of French photographer Serge Lutens, Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton proudly present Joicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Le Graphique. The unabashedly daring collection, with its use of bold graphic details and dramatic cuts, takes on an unearthly quality with the incorporation of dreamy elements. Case in point: the embellished bangs sported by the otherworldlylooking models. One thing is clear with Le Graphique, however, and that is the collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attempt to bridge the avant garde with the marketable. The result? A look that is simply out of this world.

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Collection: Le Graphique Hair: Damien Carney Colour: Sue Pemberton Photos: Hama Sanders S

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Collection: Sublime Creative direction: Antoinette Beenders, VP creative director for Aveda Hair: Allen Ruiz, Jackson Ruiz Salon and Erminio Fiocca Colour: Ian Michael Black Makeup: Rudy Miles and Janell Geason Photos: Miguel Reveriego

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salon52.ca

3/4/10 5:48:03 PM

Reveling in the 80s Opposites clash in Aveda’s Sublime collection

Te x t b y S u b h a A r u l v a r a t h a n

veda incorporates 80s goth with early 90s grunge in its spring/summer 2010 collection, Sublime. With this collection, Aveda’s vice-president creative director, Antoinette Beenders, and her team created four distinctive styles—Rama celebrating the band Bananarama, Visage after a song by the New Romantic band of the same name, Uma inspired by the Kill Bill franchise and Toyah, honouring punk rocker Toyah Wilcox. Strong shapes, rough styling and matte finishing, with an emphasis on texture and bold colour, exude the raw and sophisticated appeal that ultimately characterizes this collection. S

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april 10 < salon

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colour

A look at the latest colour launches

Colour Wheel By Melissa Brazier

Goldwell Topchic HiBlondes Control

his new launch offers brilliant blondes in one simple step. The easy-to-use formula achieves the desired blonde tone no matter what your client’s base level may be. This addition to the Topchic family also offers up to five levels of lift and finely concentrated pigments to balance warm, natural tones. Translation: no unwanted brassiness. Plus the Topchic Integrated Protect System ensures the inner hair structure is unharmed during the lifting process for smooth, shiny results.

Hair: Mark Leeson, Mark Leeson Hair, Body & Mind, Mansfield, UK Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Wardrobe: Bernard Connolly Photos: Andrew O’Toole

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Kaaral Easy Soft Colour

aaral introduces a new ammonia-free colour system. Easy Soft Colour, a 27-shade range that launched near the end of 09, welcomes three new high-blonde hues: Very Light Blond, Deep Very Light Irisee Blond and Very Light Golden Blond. These new lighteners colour on tone, while provitamin B5, coconut oil and aloe vera protect and give hair added shine. Simple to use, these ready-to-go colour tubes require no mixing.

salon52.ca

3/4/10 4:26:35 PM

colour

Redken Electric Avenue

n tandem with Redken’s Electric Avenue Hair Color Trends photo collection, Color Fusion has introduced new, bolder hues for blondes, brunettes and redheads, which can also be mixed with the EQ shades for a customized service menu. The three new shades fall under the Natural Fashion colour family, offering an enhanced colour range of gold, copper and violet tones. Two of the violet reds have also been reformulated and rebalanced for richer more vibrant results. These new additions to Redken’s colour line are ideal for clients looking to achieve on-trend fashion shades tailored to their own personal style.

Professional by Fama Plural

his new eco demi-permanent colour line is an ammonia-free hypoallergenic system that gives between 80 and 100 per cent grey coverage. With an activation time of 15 to 25 minutes, the exclusive Gelling Fluid allows for even application with a pleasantly fruity scent your client will love. The Plural colour system contains three swatches in natural tones, fashion hues and bright tints. The keratin-based formula repairs the hair, ensuring a beautiful shine while keeping hair close to its natural state. In keeping with its eco-nature, the entire line’s packaging is also recyclable.

American Crew Precision Blend System

or male clients who want to be rid of grey hair, American Crew introduces the Precision Blend System. With four shades— light, medium ash, medium natural and dark—this line takes the guesswork out of covering grey. Plus, for antsy male clients, this service takes five quick minutes and results will last four to six weeks and fade to tone (sans brassiness).

Logics Luminous Cream Lightener

he patented Emollien-C is the heroic ingredient in Logics new lightener. Emollient molecules nourish and surround each strand for enhanced shine, while ceramides penetrate the hair fibre and act as intercellular cement to fortify hair, thereby minimizing damage during the lightening process. Offering up to seven levels of lift, this versatile system can be used for subtle to bold highlights, dimensional effects and all-over colour.

Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Color10

one are the days of clients spending an entire afternoon in the salon. It’s with the client on the go in mind that SKP’s Igora introduces a professional permanent colour that processes in only 10 minutes. Although this new innovation beats the clock, it won’t compromise performance. Formulated with the Amino-Acid Carrier technology, the amino acids Arginin and Glycin penetrate deeply pulling colour pigments into the cuticle quickly and efficiently, while simultaneously minimizing damage to the hair. S

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3/4/10 4:27:05 PM

are you the next Canadian Hairstylist of the year?

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Contessa 22

The Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards

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Download your entry formâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;only available on salon52.ca

Enter by August 17, 2010

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Collection: Emotion Hair: Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Makeup: GeneviĂ¨ve Lenneville Photos: Leda & St. Jacques

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Colourful Emotions Shantal Dupon talks about her C21 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year collection

By Shantal Dupon as told to Tina Christopoulos

was my own inspiration for this collection, as I'm a pretty "classic" person. To step outside my comfort zone, I met with two amazing photographers, Leda and Pierre St.Jacques. As we sat and brainstormed together, I started talking about myselfâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the type of person I am, my capabilities, favourite things, looks I like and why I wanted to enter the competition. When I told them that I needed to do this for myself, they said, "Shantal, you need to approach this as a challenge. You have to push yourself further, step outside the box." Usually, I would veer toward black and white images and straight lines, but I ended up with something more colourful. I called my collection "Emotion" because one of my objectives was to show my feelings through each image. I wanted to play with classic colours like blonde, black, brunette and copper, and the shapes needed to be soft, feminine and modern. We did the shoot in one day, but I did a prep day of colour prior to the shoot. One of my models cancelled the morning of, so I had to find another Asian model that suited the look and emotion. What a challenge, but I made it! Entering the Contessas was on my to do list this year and my main goal was to be a finalist in at least one category. Of course, I was hoping to take home a trophy, but being a semi-finalist in six categories and a finalist in four superseded my expectations. I'm really happy and proud, not to mention I met great people like Leda, Pierre and their team. I'll do it again, for sure! S

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nails

Easy Being Green How to create an eco-friendly nail bar

Cleaners Compromising on health and safety regulations regarding manicure and pedicure tools is not an option. However, there are many surfaces in a nail bar that are well serviced with a green cleaner and a little

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elbow grease.Phosphate- and fragrance-free laundry and dishwashing detergents are a good place to start.

Appliances and Lighting The purchase of energy-efficient appliances and trading in your old lighting for compact flourescent bulbs will immediately reduce your carbon footprint and your monthly energy bills. Switching to an energy provider that uses renewable resources, like Bullfrog Power, will inspire your clientele to follow your lead.

Disposal Too often, it's easier to toss something in the garbage or down the drain without considering the consequences to the environment. Dispose of sanitizers, strong chemicals and solvent-soaked tissues in a special container with a sealed lid. Speak to a waste disposal official in your municipality to make sure you are not allowing harmful chemicals to get into the water table.

Reach Out Talk to clients and local business

owners about green initiatives in your community and abroad. You can start a campaign for your favourite green charity or organize a clean-up of a local wildlife area. “You need to think globally and act locally,” says Pink.

Products You don’t need to compromise quality for an eco-friendly brand. For Joanne Hendry, co-owner of Allegra Organic Spa & Boutique in Milton, ON, the choice was clear. “Our decision to use SpaRitual was based on the completeness and quality of their product line.” If you are uncertain or unhappy about an ingredient in your products, consider speaking to your sales representative.

Fresh Air Most nail bars have low chemical emissions and don’t need special ventilation systems, but clients will notice your efforts in making the air a little sweeter. Dispose of your outdated aersol containers and replace them with alternatives, such as SpaRitual’s Andalé Dry & Shine Drops. Close nail laquer containers immediately

after use and consider providing nail technicians with masks that contain charcoal filters (the ordinary cotton masks only protect against dust, not fumes).

Education Visit sites like gogreensalon. com, greenspanetwork.org, and lohas.com for green-spa business solutions. Involve and educate every member of your team in the greening process. Hendry, for example, holds workshops to inform clients about eco-friendly products and services. Remember, you are the expert. If you feel a particular product or process is too chemically potent, suggest and provide alternatives for your clients. “Elevate your position as a nail technician,” says Pink. “The fact that you sit across from your client and have the ability to speak with them is a unique opportunity to communicate the eco-message.” Going green does not have to be an expensive, time-consuming job. Pink puts it best. “Initiatives, however small, are a step in the right direction.” S

jupiterimages

f you are thinking about going green in your nail bar, the trick is to think small. Owning and running an environmentally conscious business is a daunting task for many nail bar owners who would like to offer ecooptions to their clients, but feel nervous about the financial and time commitment. Shel Pink, creator and vicepresident of SpaRitual, has dedicated her life to creating eco-friendly products. For a salon owner new to the green movement, she advises, “Take baby steps. Once you begin, your passion for it will engage you in the process.” Inspired to make a difference but don’t know where to start? Choose two of the following suggestions and make them your eco-initiatives for the year.

By Stan Byrne

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Bridal Path

With the busy wedding season almost here, Salon Magazine gives you a complete guide to dealing with bridal clients By Melissa Brazier and Anupa Mistry

Hair

side from the dress, a bride’s hair is one of the main focal points on the wedding day. A teasedand-hairsprayed updo, flowing waves or cute crop contribute to the mood of the event, so it’s important that hairstylists work with clients to achieve the right look. “We suggest that brides choose their look six to 12 months before the wedding day,” says Michelle Ateb, Contessa 2010 Makeover and Master Colourist of the Year, from Milica SalonSpa in Langley, BC. Cathey Salerno of Picaso’s Salon & Spa in Woodbridge, ON, agrees: “Healthy hair takes time. It’s usually a six-month program so we book appointments accordingly.” Salerno runs down a list of important dates in the average bride's journey to the wedding: engagement photos, engagement party, bridal shower, girls’ night out and rehearsal dinner. “These are very special nights where the bride is engaging with people who are a part of her wedding, so she wants to look her best,” she says. Not confident in your pre-booking skills? “All hair designers need to understand how big the bridal market is,” explains Ateb. “Brides spend an average of $2,000 on flowers and $1,000 on a cake! Make sure you are fully participating in this large part of our industry. Remember, with brides come bridesmaids and family members. All could be future clients after the wedding.” Along with determining the bridal party needs at the initial consultation, also consider colour, texture, hair health, growth needed, the possibility of extensions and, of course, the final look, according to Salerno. Ateb says brides should choose the colour they want their hair to be six to 12 months beforehand. “Her colourist will plan out the schedule, giving time to tweak the colour to ensure it’s perfect.” Both Ateb and Salerno say

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the final colour should be done within a week to three days before the wedding. As for the final look, Salerno takes a no-nonsense approach. “What is her vision? Does she have a theme? Does she want to be sexy or angelic? What about her body type and dress shape?” she asks. “If you under-promise and over-deliver, you will have nothing but happy brides." And what about brides who insist on a particularly unflattering look? “As a professional, I have to do a bit of homework and be the educator in the conversation. Give them your reasoning,” explains Salerno. “If I can’t talk them out of it, during a consultation I will do what they want and take pictures so they can see how it really

looks. Usually by then, they see my point.” Last, but just as crucial as growth and colour, is texture. “At Milica SalonSpa we recommend Shu Uemura Art of Hair deep conditioning ceremonies every three to four weeks leading up to the wedding,” says Ateb. “The ‘ceremonies’ will not only bring her hair into optimal condition, but the luxurious and relaxing experience will help ease the stress of busy wedding planning.” Pristine texture is also a good retailing opportunity, says Ateb, who recommends Shu Uemura Art of Hair products to complement the luxe in-salon hair ceremonies. Salerno suggests talking about products while using them and then prescribing them for at-home maintenance along with variations at different price points.

Growth

Nails

best boyfriend

main squeeze

ell-manicured fingers will set off the bride’s sparkling new bauble even better. Sheena McCallum, an esthetician at Vancouver’s Le Petit Spa advises, “Manicures should be done as close to the date as possible, but not on the actual day. This will keep them looking beautiful without restricting the bride while she is

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petal pink

Add This!

For a bride who wants some sparkle peeking through her radiant locks, place and iron in these Hair Gems by Tooth Fairy. The one-time-use decorations can be custom-applied depending on the bride's desired effect.

pillow talk

getting ready.” Skip trendy colours—they risk looking passé when a couple looks back on wedding photos—and stay with pretty neutrals like nudes, soft pinks and creams. Essie’s new 2010 Wedding Color collection ups the ante with classic hues infused with modern sheens. “Weddings are full of colourful personal touches, from

show me the ring

walk down the aisle

flowers to dresses and desserts,” says founder and president Essie Weingarten. “The perfect manicure adds to the originality of a special day in a way that nothing but nail polish can.” Want to really look like a star? Get the maid of honour to tuck a bottle of the chosen polish into her bouquet for last minute touch-ups. t

You can’t necessarily speed up hair growth for a bridal client, although you can suggest monthly trims to keep hair in the best condition. However, what you can do is bring the growth to her with extensions. Great Lengths educator Melanie O’Connor says extensions serve a variety of purposes from dramatically elongating hair to adding volume and thickness to highlighting without chemicals. “Typical Great Lengths human hair extensions last between four and six months,” says O’Connor, adding that this can be sold as a service for the entire bridal experience, from engagement to wedding. “And you can do absolutely anything to human hair extensions: smooth, curl, colour, perm, updo. If she’s wearing her hair up for the church, we can take it down for the reception. The stylist has no limitations.” Colour should be applied a week before extensions so that the installation can be matched to the new colour. O’Connor also suggests that brides allow at least one month before the wedding day to get used to their new hair and give their stylist time to determine suitable looks.

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Collection: Friendship Garden Hair: Amy Freudenberg, educator for L’anza Healing Haircare Makeup: Rosanna Reed Wardrobe: Robert Ballew Photos: Kym Ventola

Face & Body

very bride wants that special glow, and with the right amount of planning, you as her esthetician can make sure she looks and feels great on her big day. According to Sheena McCallum, an esthetician at Vancouver’s Le Petit Spa, starting services three months prior is ideal. Erin Wilson, spa manager for Toronto’s GQ Spa, adds, “The more time you have with your bride the better. The timeline really depends on her expectations and also the state of her skin. Get any heavy duty stuff out of the way and then focus on maintenance closer to the wedding.” The first step is a thorough consultation where expectations are discussed and the plan of action confirmed. McCallum says that it’s also important to be flexible, as ideas change throughout the planning process and you may have to adjust services half-way through or even right before the wedding. Brides also have a lot on their minds the closer it gets to the wedding day, so be prepared to recommend and guide them through the process in order to ensure you both stay on track. Appointment reminders the day before is always a good idea as a bride’s schedule can be hectic, and it’s not uncommon for misunderstandings or mix-ups to occur. When it comes to the bride’s face, McCallum says, “Facials should be booked every six weeks to adjust the routine according to needs, and to get the skin used to more active products.” Wilson says one of the first steps is, “to start her on an easy-tofollow at-home care regime. A good cleanser, exfoliant, moisturizer

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with SPF and mask to target specific concerns are all important for optimal skin health.” She also notes that if the bride wants to do microdermabrasion, laser treatments or chemical peels, these treatments need to start as early as six months prior and should wrap up at least a month before the wedding day, giving skin ample time to heal. McCallum says this is a good general rule of thumb to follow. “Try not to do anything for the first time within a month of the wedding because the bride could have breakouts, previously unknown allergic reactions or sensitivities. If she insists, make sure she is aware of the risks and patch test everything.” Wilson suggests also finding out what style of dress the bride will be wearing and what skin will be exposed. If she has concerns with the skin on her body, like breakouts on her back or dry skin, develop a treatment plan to tackle these concerns as well. Hair removal is another common bride request. “Waxing should be started months before the date. First-time waxing doesn’t last as long and the bride can’t know exactly how her skin will react. Work backwards with her to figure out the timing,” says McCallum. Brides will often book several services a day or two before the wedding to unwind. Wilson suggests a massage to ease tension and stress, a body scrub or wrap to remove dull skin and hydrate the skin on the body, and a gentle face treatment that avoids any harsh exfoliants or heavy extractions. In addition, McCallum would include a deluxe manicure and pedicure that includes a paraffin wax at this time. S

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3/4/10 7:14:01 PM

Storyboarding your Contessa collection by Melissa Brazier

WHY SHOULD YOU DO A STORYBOARD?

A Contessa collection tells a story through images, and a storyboard ensures a coherent result. Rasa Jurenas, who has won several Contessas, owns Studio Rasa and is an Essential Looks artist for Schwarzkopf Professional, says,

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HAIR: RASA JURENAS, CONTESSA 17; PHOTOS: PAULA TIZZARD

Tell a Tale

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“Storyboards are crucial because they are the thought process that make everything come to life in a photo shoot. They keep you organized and guide you. They give direction and focus.” Roch Lemay, director of education and events for Matrix Canada, adds that the strength of your collection is based on the strength of your research and storyboard.

Where do you start?

Lemay suggests a good starting point is flipping through magazines and searching the Internet for inspiration. “Cut or print out all images that attract your attention at first glance; the ones that instantly mean something to you,” he says, adding that in this first phase you should keep an open mind and let your creativity reign free. Jurenas also says it’s important to consider all the elements of your shoot—makeup, wardrobe, backdrops, models, lighting and photography. When Jurenas is planning her board, she likes to have a combination of magazine cut-outs, photos, drawings, and written thoughts so it’s clear what she’s aiming for.

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Put all these images in a folder, give it a week and then come back and start the process of elimination. Lemay also advises that it’s important to take a close look at the past collections in the specific category you are entering to see if your concept fits. Both experts agree that the main thing is to use the storyboard as a reference and not to copy exactly what is in the photos you selected; let the storyboard assist you with your creation but present your own take on it.

Who works on the storyboard?

“Too many people involved in the storyboard process can offtrack your idea,” says Jurenas, who speaks from experience. “Work on it yourself or with your hair team first, then ask the others if they can achieve the look you are aiming for.” Lemay says the people involved in the beginning stages should be the hairstylist and colourist, then the makeup artist and finally the photographer. Remember: the storyboard is there so the team can follow and accommodate your vision. S

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3/4/10 5:39:42 PM

Simply Edgy

A dynamic duo from Edmonton creates a modern haven for everyone from housewives to hipsters By Colette Wright

photos martin bougie

interiors

n the brink of their first-year anniversary, owners Roberto Gaspar and John Jen Hoe Chong are turning the heads of top hair-industry types in a westerly direction. Both recently made headlines when Chong won Contessa’s 2010 Alberta stylist of the year and Gaspar was a finalist in the same category. After working together for 15 years, the dynamic duo has joined forces to open up Edmonton’s Blunt Salon Inc. “We both knew we wanted to own a salon one day,” says Gaspar. “Not necessarily with each other, but over the years we realized our ideas for design were similar.” Chong adds, “We had done a lot of research already on our own, but we needed to hire someone to make our vision a reality.” The next step was bringing in a recent graduate of interior design who was bursting with fresh and innovative ideas. “I had seen Ann Lam’s work in restaurants and was intrigued to see what she could do with our salon,” claims Gaspar.

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Nestled in what is now the very popular Warehouse District, which features artisian shops, cafés, restaurants and the rebirth of old warehouses converted into chic lofts and condos, the new hair destination is overflowing with a calm yet uplifting vibe. Work on the salon began almost two years ago. Gaspar says bluntly, “It was important to create a clean yet stylish edge with plenty of storage space, allowing for a clutter-free environment 24/7.” With storage a meticulous issue and the notion that the cutting station’s granite counter would be for the clients' belongings (including laptops which can be hooked up to a wireless connection), drawers were installed to store tools and equipment. “And product is kept on storage shelves built into both sides of the mirror,” adds Gaspar. Attention to detail was kept in mind in the during the design process. Instead of a concrete floor, a German made 1.5 inch marmoleum padding was laid out, giving a slight spring but leaving an ultimate shine. When the owners agreed to paint the furniture white, it was suggested they put a protective sealant on top to make it easier to wipe off stains or marks. Again, they admit this was a wise decision especially around the colour bar. Covering the back wall is a splash of bright candy-red, giving the salon a spirited tone. But at the backwash sinks things are much calmer as the lighting is purposely dimmed to help the area’s young entrepreneurs and business clients unwind. Gaspar and Chong have also created more body space for the client. The average width between most cutting stations is 3.8 ft. to 4 ft.; they intentionally increased the space to 5 ft. instead. Gaspar and Chong both agree it encourages better communication with their clients. But what stands out in Blunt Salon Inc. most of all are two décor items that Gaspar and Chong stumbled upon (and bought without the designer’s stamp of approval) at a store called Robinson Lighting in west Edmonton. Gaspar laughs, saying that with all the energy he and Chong have put in their new salon, not a day goes by without someone commenting, “Where did you get those huge, black mesh chandeliers?” S

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Info:

Blunt Salon Inc., 10142- 104 Street Northwest, Edmonton, AB, 780.498.1899, bluntsaloninc.com Owners: Roberto Gaspar and John Jen Hoe Chong Opened: April 2009 Breakdown: 1900 sq. ft., 10 staff, 12 cutting and three colour stations Designer: Ann Lam, Roberto Gaspar and John Jen Hoe Chong Furniture & Equipment: AVG Group Retail Hair: L’Oréal Professionnel, Pureology and Kevin.Murphy Management Software: Insight Salon & Spa Hours of Operation: Mon., Wed. and Fri.: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.; Tues. and Thurs.: 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Sat.: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

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SCOOP

In the

Spotlight

Finding Inspiration From April 15 to April 21, stylists can receive artistic inspiration and exclusive hands-on training in Belgium and the Netherlands with internationally renowned Joico artists. The trip includes a visit to the Joico Europe Artistic Institute, where you can learn from the likes of Ulf Schjerpen and Ellen Marie Johansen on how to add some avant garde looks to your personal repertoire. For more information, contact your local Joico sales rep or Maria Martins, Piidea Canada travel director, at mmartins@piidea.com, 800.267.4676 x227.

The BC Hairtherapy products shown here are all available in Canada as of last month.

Woodbridge, ON’s Phases Salon has been a hotbed of activity. Not only did the salon honour local Olympic torchbearer Janet Caverly, it also taped a segment with eTalk where the salon recreated the Pauly D and the Snooki looks from TV reality show Jersey Shore.

Beauty Expansion It seems like third time’s the charm for Venus Beauty Supplies, as it has opened its third location in Ottawa. The company’s first foray out of the GTA, the 2,500 sq.-ft.-showroom and educational facility is located on 1712 Carling Avenue. Other locations can be found in Mississauga and Woodbridge.

Big Move top left photo: hair ulf schjerpen; photo courtesy joico

The Hair Force Salon and Spa has a new address and can now be found at 1 Centennial in Mount Pearl, NL. Owner and Atlantic Hairstylist of the Year Marjorie Clarke will also be hosting a grand re-opening, so stay tuned.

A New Role

BC Hairtherapy is giving one lucky stylist the opportunity to win a $7,500 trip to London, England. Stylists will be given numbered BC Hairtherapy Rx cards to be used when diagnosing client hair, and each numbered card will equal one contest ballot. For more info check out letyourhairBCeen.ca.

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Oligo Professionnel welcomes Elie Andria to its team as the new regional sales manager. His role will cover sales, marketing, ABA shows and recruiting team members and educators from across Canada. t

London Calling

Joico’s Gina Coburn-Steele has stepped into the newly created position director of North American artistic development. The announcement was made during Joico and ISO’s training in late January.

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NAHA N O RT H A M E R I C A N H A I R S T Y L I N G AWA R D S

2010

July 18, 2010

Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino Las Vegas, Nevada

Awards Ceremony

6:30pm Red Carpet Reception 8:00pm Ceremony

Beauty Meets Business at PBA Beauty Week

FOUNDING PARTNER

hair by 2009

CURRENT 2010 SPONSORS

Join us on

facebook

Nicole Obert

B E A U TY

finalist

CURRENT 2010 MEDIA PARTNERS

p r o b e a u t y. o r g / n a h a

800.468.2274 The NORTH AMERICAN HAIRSTYLING AWARDS is part of the largest, most inclusive beauty event in North America!

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Beauty Week July 17 - 20 3/4/10 7:28:09 PM

SCOOP

Bike Away Neil Ducoff, founder and CEO of Strategies Publishing Group, and Larry Niles, owner of Bike Vermont, have put together the No Compromise Leadership Vermont Bike Tour. Set to take place in July, this six-day, five-night tour is a funfilled vacation for bike lovers of all levels, packed together with in-depth discussions on effective leadership in the evening. To get involved visit bikevt.com.

Pairing Up For its latest offering, Schwarzkopf Professional partners its styling brand OSiS with its Salon Tool Collection to create the Barbicide Disinfectant Jar. Launched in March 2010, the art-deco-inspired jar is a more playful approach to pattern and colour.

Hair Raiser

L’Oréal Professionnel’s Inoa campaign hit Toronto on Feb.10 with over 60 attendees representing various media outlets present. Adrian Corsin, product manager haircolour for LP, took guests through the product features, and then Colin Ford, national director of education and events, introduced the Inoa triplets, three sisters-turned-models displaying virgin hair, hair currently being processed by Inoa, and hair after Inoa. Ford also brought out models demonstrating the line’s colour range, from brilliant blonde to deep brunette.

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Healthy Hair Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply will now distribute Global Keratin, the much-buzzed-about reconditioning treatment that straightens and softens hair, while restoring natural shine without the use of strong chemicals. S

photos left: L’Oréal Professionnel

A Colourful Celebration

A Really Cool Hair Show is set to take place on April 18, 2010, in Vancouver, BC’s Rocky Mountaineer Station. Featured guests include Philip Wilson (presented by FHI Heat), Tricia McQuillan (presented by Davines), Chad Taylor (presented by Joico) and David Raccuglia (presented by American Crew), who will share their experiences and expertise in this one-day event. To purchase tickets or get more info, call Anna at 604.321.2700 x247.

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The Beauty of ABA LEARN THE LATEST BEAUTY TRENDS AND MEET THE EXPERTS WHO CREATE AND TEACH THEM! LEARN cutting edge techniques and ideas guaranteed to keep you at the forefront of international trends. SHOP for all your favourite items at the best prices and discover the hottest, newest products. ENJOY the ABA competitions, the opportunity to connect with your peers and the ever-popular Sunday night ABA party. MAIN STAGE ABA is proud to bring to you high caliber, exciting education and the latest styles in hair and fashion at: • The Toronto show on the main stage VIDAL SASSOON • The Montreal and Edmonton shows for the first time SACO International

VISIT THE ABA SHOW IN YOUR REGION THIS YEAR ON ONE OF THESE DATES: TORONTO MONTRÉAL WINNIPEG EDMONTON

Metro Toronto Convention Centre (South Building) Palais des Congres Winnipeg Convention Centre Northlands Park

February 28 & March 1 (EARLY DATE) March 14 & 15 April 25 & 26 May 2 & 3

N E W. . . B E G I N N I N G J A N UA RY 2 0 1 0

You will now be able to purchase ABA show tickets on line at www.abacanada.com. All major credit cards accepted. Some restrictions may apply, see full details at www.abacanada.com Ask your distributor for details or call 1-800-268-6644 for more information or visit www.abacanada.com seD

Design: Artisan Design,Windsor, Ontario Hair: Sassoon Creative Team led by Mark Hayes, International Creative Director Make-Up: Daniel Kolaric Photo Styling:Tabitha Owen Photographer: Colin Roy

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12/8/09 3:11:03 PM

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Dr. Temt iLash pg 96........................................................................................ www.drtemt.at Essie Wedding Collection pg 29........................800-232-1155......................... www.essie.com Esthetics Plus pg 79..........................................888-422-6677......................... www.epbeauty.ca Gigi All Purpose Honee pg 99...........................800-621-9585......................... www.gigspa.com Global Keratin pg 26......................................................................................... www.globalkeratin.com Goldwell Topchic pg 23.....................................800-387-3873......................... www.goldwell-northamerica.com Great Lengths pg 41..........................................800-461-9302......................... www.greatlengthscanada.com

______________________________________________ CARDHOLDER’S NAME

Hot Tools pg 49..................................................800-487-8432......................... www.hottools.com

❏ Mr. ❏ Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________

IBD Beauty Soak Off pg 47................................800-621-9585......................... www.ibdbeauty.com

Surname _______________________________________

Images Hair Clinics pg 93..................................866-942-4247......................... www.imageslasertek.com

Title ___________________________________________ Business Name____________________________________

International Beauty Services pg 95.................800-642-3818

Address ___________________________Suite _________

Joico Vero K-Pak Color pg 35............................800-267-4676......................... www.joico.com

City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________

Joico/ISO Education on Vacation pg 100...........800-267-4676......................... www.joico.com

Phone _________________________________________ Email__________________________________________ Website ________________________________________

❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________

Kaaral Easy Soft Colour pg 36..........................877-950-4242......................... www.kaaral.com Kevin Murphy pg 43...........................................800-387-2962......................... www.kevinmurphy.com.au L’Oreal Professionnel INOA pg 2-3...................800-361-8017......................... www.inoa.ca LCN Crystal Clear pg 53...................................800-557-3223......................... www.lcn.ca Matrix Imagine pg 13-19..................................888-422-6879......................... www.matrix.com Mixed Chicks pg 81........................................................................................... www.mixedchicks.net NAHA 2010 pg 85...............................................800-468-2274......................... www.probeauty.org/naha OPI Softshades 2010 Pink pg 11.......................800-341-9999......................... www.opi.com

# of Employees ____

Pivot Point pg 94................................................888-735-4247......................... www.pivotpointcanada.ca

What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________

Premiere Orlando 2010 pg 75............................800-335-7469......................... www.premiereorlandoshow.biz

What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se195

FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0 or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

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Redken Cover Fusion pg 21..............................866-9REDKEN........................ www.redken.ca Rowenta Beauty pg 45...................................................................................... www.rowentabeauty.ca Schwarzkopf BC Hairtherapy pg 8-9................800-463-3081......................... www.letyourhairbceen.ca Schwarzkopf BCeen Contest pg 33..................800-463-3081......................... www.letyourhairbceen.ca Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 4-5..........................800-463-3081......................... www.salon52.ca/contests Sebastian Professional What’s Next pg 6-7.....800-267-1962......................... www.sebastianprofessional.com Soma Hair Technology pg 20.............................866-843-2257......................... www.somahair.ca Star Nail Canada pg 91......................................877-852-STAR........................ www.starnailcanada.com TIGI Catwalk pg 25............................................800-259-8596......................... www.catwalkbytigi.com Wella Trend Vision pg 31...................................800-41-WELLA....................... www.wellausa.com salon52.ca

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EVENTS

A team from The Head Room in St. John's, NL, won top prize at the LP Colour Trophy on Jan. 24 in Montreal. Over 1,000 guests attended this event where hosts Véronique Beaupré and Colin Ford introduced newly appointed vice-president of prestige brands, professional products division, Doriane Dalati. The new Série Nature launch was also announced and the Colour Trophy winners were revealed. Guests also took in presentations from Anna PacittoMerlo, Heather Wenman, Guylaine Martel, Daniel Fiorio and Frank Cini. Plus Louis Hechter and Isabelle Lachance interpreted LP’s big colour launch Inoa with an artistic presentation.

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Photos courtesy Gil Perron

L’OréaI Professionnel Colour Trophy

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EVENTS

Donato Salon + Spa Grand Opening Over 200 attendees flocked to the Shops at Don Mills to attend the grand opening of the fourth location of Donato Salon + Spa on Feb.11. Guests toured the new space, while models showcasing the talents of team Donato mingled amongst the crowd.

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Photos left to centre column Jenna Wakani

Schwarzkopf Professional hosted an exclusive luncheon for media and stylists to announce the official relaunch of the entire BC Hairtherapy line on Jan. 27. Present to answer media questions about the new line was Frank Barbosa, lead stylist on set of the film Sex and the City 2, and Susan Boccia, national trainer for Schwarzkopf Professional.

Photos katie bateman

BC Hairtherapy Relaunch

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3/5/10 2:24:11 PM

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3/5/10 4:15:14 4:14:41 PM

EVENTS

From Jan. 30 to Feb. 1, a record-breaking 40,000 beauty professionals attended the International Salon & Spa Expo (ISSE) sponsored by the Professional Beauty Association. The event included 390-plus exhibits, 250 educational classes and presentations from big names like Tabatha Coffey and Charlie Price. It was also the first year for the Legends & Icons gala to be hosted at ISSE. This year, Ann Mincey, Robert Cromeans, and Sonya and Christopher Dove were honoured.

PHOTOS COURTESY ISSE

ISSE 2010

M S L i b e r at i o n Please sign the petition at www.msliberation.ca asking that MS patients in Canada be investigated for a condition called CCSVI

ultiple sclerosis (MS) is the most common neurological disease among young adults in Canada affecting vision, hearing, memory, balance and mobility. There is no cure and the cause is unknown. Recently, a significant discovery has shown that most people with MS also have a condition called chronic cerebrospinal venous insufficiency (CCSVI), which when corrected has been shown to improve the symptoms of MS patients. Testing people for CCSVI is inexpensive and harmless. Treatment is often possible by a minimally invasive procedure yet many in the Canadian medical establishment will not even check MS patients for CCSVI.

Brian Light

This message is brought to you by Brian Light, Chairman of Salon Communications Inc. Brian has MS and CCSVI. He has recently been treated outside of Canada. Go to www.msliberation.ca so other Canadian MS patients can get that same opportunity in Canada. 92

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salon52.ca

3/5/10 4:37:55 PM

Curly Hair Solutions Lunch and Learn Select media gathered at Toronto’s Brassaii on Feb. 17 for a lunch and learn with Jonathan Torch of Curly Hair Solutions. He went over the entire line, which emphasizes water-soluble formulations and maintaining hair’s pH balance. Alongside his team from The Curly Hair Institute, Torch also demonstrated product use on TV personality Jacqui Skeete from Oh So Cosmo.

Laser Hair Rejuvenation Proven results in treating thinning and damaged hair. A natural salon/spa addition to service your clients! Before

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Financing available as little as $129/month Now available at the following locations: Young Look Salon - Ste. Rose, MB • Shear Pleasure Milton, ON • Look 140 Hair - Timmins, ON Tric’s Salon/Spa - Manning, AB • Lil’s Chop Shop Elliot Lake, ON • Make-Me-Over Spa - Port Moody, BC april 10< salon

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EVENTS

Calbrook Canada 1-866-522-5435 • www.calbrookcanada.com

Kaaral Educational Summit Europa Beauty Supplies and Kaaral held an educational event from Jan. 17 to 21. Stylists took part in seminars covering everything from colour basics to product knowledge. On Sunday, Kaaral’s Nicola Vitulli and Europa Beauty’s Joe and Domenic Romeo organized seminars on cut, colour and spring trends, presented by stylist Rudy D’Amico in collaboration with Kitchener, ON’s Teknik Salon and Spa.

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Imagine Salon & Spa Educational Summit Owners Ian Marc and Jacqueline Smith Bedford hosted an educational summit for their staff from Jan.31 to Feb.1 at their Nova Scotia-based salon and spa. Alain Audet of Solnyx Consulting gave business tips and advice, Allison Hunter from Jane Iredale Mineral Makeup covered product knowledge and master trainer from KMS California Emirson Bekirovski did a hands-on cut and colour seminar.

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Hair on the Avenue Buzzcuts & Ponytails Toronto-based salon Hair on the Avenue held an event on Feb. 7 to announce the launch of its new Buzzcuts and Ponytails kids division, which features candy-filled barbicide jars, hot chocolate and a toy trunk. Every Sunday, kids can get an experience like their parents—a stylish cut or even a glitter spray or 24-karat gold pomade finish—all for $30.

april 2010 A REALLY COOL HAIR SHOW April 18, 2010 Rocky Mountaineer Station Vancouver, BC Info: 604.321.2700 x247 2010 HEALTH & BEAUTY EXPO April 24–25, 2010 Vancouver Convention & Exhibition Centre Vancouver, BC Info: jamexpo.ca INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS COSMETICS & SPA CONFERENCE April 24–25, 2010 Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, NV Info: iecsc.com

IBS LAS VEGAS April 24–26, 2010 Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, NV Info: ibslasvegas. com ABA WINNIPEG April 25–26, 2010 Winnipeg Convention Centre Winnipeg, MB Info: abacanada. com EVOLVE SASKATOON April 25–26, 2010 Saskatoon Inn & Conference Centre Saskatoon, SK Info: 888.241.3330 x2289

Hair CLASSES Aveda Educational Programs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI Educational Programs Info: 888.251.8466 global best beauty Educational Programs Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 Goldwell Educational Programs including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767 Great Lengths Educational Programs Info: greatlengthscanada. com KMS Educational Programs Info: 877.670.6767 L’Oréal Professionnel Educational Programs Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861

Photos courtesy Hair on the Avenue

EVENTS

Redken Educational Programs Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP Educational Programs Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI Educational Programs Info: 800.259.8596 Urban Beauty Systems Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available; Info: 866.731.4327

Nail & Esthetics CLASSES Aveda Educational Programs Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND Educational Programs Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN Educational Programs Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings Star Nail Educational Programs Info: 800.661.9997

Matrix Educational Programs Info: 888.422.6879

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1-800-493-5098 x8600 SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 19 Issue 05 salon52.ca

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Canadian Made

salon52.ca

To subscribe or renew your subscription see form on page 88

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LAST WORD

All The World's A

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money’s not great, but you get good work for your portfolio and excellent exposure if the magazine likes your work. And if they really like you and your work, travelling to an exotic location shoot may be on your horizon. I once had a great time in Jamaica doing the hair for a swimsuit shoot. Now let’s talk about working as a platform artist for a product company at hair shows. Being on the road feels exciting at first, especially when your hotels and meals are paid for. But you’d better make good use of that hotel bed for sleeping, because you’ve got some hard work to do. You have to be at the top of your styling and public speaking game for two to three shows a day. After a while the travel becomes gruelling, but again, you get great work for your portfolio. But as far as I’m concerned, you’re on stage every time you’re doing a client’s hair in the salon. And whomever is sitting in your chair is your model. Listen to her, give her your undivided attention and send her out on wings. It sure beats working in an office. S

TOP PHOTO JUPITERIMAGES STEINBERG PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

ravelling across this great and wonderful country of ours to present John Steinberg: The Adventure puts me in touch with students and hairdressers of every level of experience. Each time I make my presentation, I ask the people in the audience to raise their hands if they want to do hair for films, TV, fashion shows or magazines. Invariably, 80 per cent of the hands go up for each of these fields, which is understandable given the glamour that surrounds them. However, all that glitters is not gold, and appearances can be deceiving. So let’s look at some of the pros and cons of these disciplines, based on my experience. Film looks thrilling, but behind-the-scenes, it’s a business of “hurry up and wait.” As the day begins, you’re insanely busy and under intense pressure. Then come countless hours of doing nothing, except the occasional touch-up. Definitely a feast or famine situation. But the upside of those extremely long days is a healthy paycheque. Then there’s the challenge of continuity. Sometimes days after you have created a hairstyle, you’re presented with a Polaroid photo of it and expected to recreate it, hair for hair. Or worse, you may be asked to recreate another hairstylist’s do, again hair for hair. Unlike me, you may not find this tedious and boring. But I’m definitely not a good candidate for film continuity. If you fancy having a go at TV, you must have a gregarious, outgoing personality (not difficult for most hairdressers). You can’t come across like a dimwit on camera, so be fearless, and don’t ramble on. Speak well and clearly, and if you can encapsulate what you want to say in sound bites, they’ll love you. Runway work is fast, furious and fun. I always loved the challenging atmosphere of divas rubbing shoulders with each other and competing to see who can be the most original. Who exactly is a diva at a fashion show? Everyone, including you. Fashion magazine work takes both vision and patience. With editorials, you do the shoot, submit the shots and wait for your work to be published—sometimes up to three months later. The

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

salon52.ca

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All Aboard!

CALLING ALL STYLISTS…

Join Joico and ISO on the 2010 EDUCATION ON VACATION Caribbean Cruise event: a 7-day tropical adventure featuring the most dynamic, industry-leading education in the professional business!* Visit COZUMEL, GRAND CAYMAN and OCHO RIOS and learn the newest techniques from internationally-renowned Joico and ISO artists. Cruise sets sail October 9-16, 2010 from Miami, Florida.

LEARN THE J-SYSTEM:

a comprehensive cutting & coloring program based on three timeless principals that result in an unlimited palette of creative options for any level of stylist. J-SYSTEM empowers the artist with the confidence and ability to blend artistry, technical precision and suitability in perfect harmony and unleash the key to every artist’s success.

FEATURING

Damien Carney, International Creative Director for Joico Shannon Simmonds, 2007 Canadian Colourist of the Year Shayne Harrison, Joico Artist

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A METHODOLOGY OF DESIGN

i.consult to create vision, i.cut to create shape, i.texture to create structure, i.color to create focus, i.finish to create personality: The Iso Team of Designers will explore the art of cutting and coloring textured hair or being inspired to begin adding texture to your body of work within your salon or your photo shoots. Iso Designers are the master architects of understanding how best to bring out your best.

FEATURING

Addam Moreno & Darby Shields International Creative Directors for ISO & i.Color

Chantal Pilon ISO International Artist

BUY YOUR TICKET TODAY!

Contact your local Joico or ISO distributor or call Piidea Canada at 1-800-267-4676 ext. 227 for more information.

Deadline to buy: June 26, 2010!

*“Education on Vacation” is an annual program hosted by the Cosmetology Industry Association of British Columbia. This year’s program is brought to you in partnership with Expedia Cruise Ship Centers and Carnival Cruiselines and sponsored by multiple salon professional product manufacturers. Joico and ISO are the exclusive professional hair care sponsors for the 2010 event. To participate in special Joico/ISO promotions and pricing, salons must book their trip through Piidea Canada. For information and registration forms contact Maria Martins via email at mmartins@piidea.com or telephone at 1 (800) 267-4676 ext. 227. Any salon professionals in the Nail and Skin category not wishing to participate in the Joico and ISO education can purchase their ticket by visiting www.ciabc.net.

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