Salon Magazine, September/October 2024 by Salon Communications Inc.

COLOUR WITH CARE

HOW TO take blonding services to the next level TIPS FOR maximizing colour corrections

CARING FOR hair with in-salon treatments

INTRODUCING REDKEN’S NEW CURL COLLECTION

ACIDIC BONDING CURLS

NEW ACIDIC BONDING CURLS

OUR 1ST SILICONE-FREE BONDING CARE TO RESTORE THE PATTERN OF DEMANDING CURLS

Formulated with Curl-Bond Technology to build bonds + repair curls strength

For curls that have seen things* *92% saw healthier + more defned curls in one use

Silicone-free formulas hyonerate + improve curls elasticity

REDKEN’S EQUITY IN BONDING + EXPERTISE IN [pH] SCIENCE

DEVELOPED SPECIFICALLY FOR CURLS

Silicone free

Lightweight

Formulated with the curly client in mind. No silicones for lightweight, bouncy, ultra-hydrated curls without the weight.

Natural oils

Ultra-hydration

Avocado oil, coconut oil and shea butter hydrate and soften.

FORMULATED WITH CURL-BOND TECHNOLOGY

Citric Acid

Penetrative repair

Enters hair follicle to provide inner strength, minimize swelling and build strong hair bonds.

Glycine

Curls craving strength

Binds with proteins to reactivate inner curl fber. Helps promote collagen production to prevent breakage.

Urea

Penetrative repair

Exfoliates scalp to remove build-up and provide lasting hydration and moisture balance.

ACIDIC BONDING CURLS REGIMEN

A PERFECT COVER STORY

PERMANENT CREAM COLOR

INTRODUCING COLOR RHAPSODY ULTIMATES

100% flawless coverage even on the toughest greys. 20 pre-mixed shades, infused with caring ingredients, deliver consistent results, natural-looking depth, and radiant shine.

DELICIOUS ON SO MANY LEVELS

“It’s important to be able to assess and tackle any colour situation. In turn, you can get some really great and loyal clients that are with you for life.”

KARYNE MCKEAN, SALON OWNER AND FREELANCE EDUCATOR, BROOKLIN, ONT.

FEATURE

Blonding and Beyond

From golden and buttery to ash and icy, blondes are always in high demand. Discover how to take your blonding services to the next level with insights from expert colourists.

FEATURE Correct Yourself

Looking to gain more confidence in your colour corrections? Look no further! We checked in with industry experts for their top tips and tricks to tackle everything from banding and unwanted tones to application and pricing issues.

37 INSPIRATION Collections

David Vendittelli; Daniele de Angelis; Mark van Westerop; Michelle Pargee; Louise Vlaar; Luis Gonzalez; Jessica McColm

CONTESSA GALLERY

Kyle Gould

Get to know this Vancouverbased hairstylist who was inspired by girl power to create his Contessa finalist collection. Plus, find out how teamwork and mentorship helped him through the creative process.

Editor’s Letter

LET’S GET DIGITAL SalonMagazine.ca

See our latest So You Think You Can Colour? winner and stay updated on the latest industry news and Contessa announcements. Plus, get inspired with our collection archive and how-tos.

WHAT’S NEW Hairlines

Learn about this season’s newest product launches in colour, haircare, styling and more. Plus, find out how to pair your haircuts and colour techniques to enhance your clients’ next look.

58 BUSINESS

Caring for All

From repairing damage to improving the look of hair colour, unlock the benefits of in-salon treatments and how to use them to build loyalty and business.

INTERIORS

Distinct Design

Take a look inside this Toronto-based salon, which was designed with function and style in mind to create a minimalistic and calming escape for both clients and staff.

LUIS GONZALEZ NORTH AMERICA ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, AVEDA

PROFILE

Colour God

From growing up in Canada to being one of New York’s most sought-after, awardwinning colourists and educators, Sean Godard continues to be an industry inspiration. Learn how he got his start and what he’s working on next.

63 Events + Scoop

SALON SOURCE

Colour with Conﬁdence

Expand your colour skill set with this roundup of upcoming in-person and virtual education sessions across the country.

MARK VAN WESTEROP, PRO SOLO, THE NETHERLANDS

BOTANICAL SECRETS REVEALED

Time-trusted ingredients meet modern innovation.

Salon Magazine

Making Magic

As colourists and stylists with the ability to create unbelievable transformations in the salon, sometimes clients can believe you’re capable of… just about anything. And while that may be true for the most part, when it comes to changing hair colours or creating various cuts and styles, sometimes options are limited.

While it can be hard to say no to a client, empowering yourself with the knowledge to understand when and why to put your foot down can be rewarding. Not only will you be mitigating the risk of creating damage and/or unwanted end results, you’ll also be standing up for yourself while protecting your name and brand.

With these truths in mind, in Correct Yourself (page 32), we chatted with colour experts about tips for tackling some of the most common colour concerns.

As blonding services continue to grow in popularity, so does their impact on your business’ bottom line. We caught up with experts in Better Blonde (page 27) and asked for their advice on how to take your lightening skills up a notch while achieving some of the trendiest hues.

While colour and style longevity really comes down to a client’s at-home maintenance routine and their overall hair condition, in Caring for All (page 58), we break down the benefits of in-salon treatments for all hair textures and discuss how they can benefit your clients’ hair health, which, in turn, leads to better colour and styling results.

Speaking of great results, get ready for some serious magic at the 36th annual Contessa Awards! The entry deadline is quickly approaching, and gala tickets go on sale soon. For a sneak peek at this year’s lineup, check out page 18. You won’t want to miss it!

Veronica Boodhan Editorial Director

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

ART DIRECTOR Barbara Burrows

DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca

CONTRIBUTORS Aleah Balas, Lucy Mazzucco

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Be Bold

Contessa Countdown

} Help Wanted

AHEAD OF THE CURVE

Get step-by-step details on how to recreate the trendiest looks of the season.

Use our professional beauty job board to browse available opportunities across the country, or to post a free listing.

Are you ready for the biggest night in Canadian professional beauty? The 2025 Contessa Awards are right around the corner! Stay updated on semifinalist and finalist announcements, ticket alerts and more.

Get inspired to think outside the box with eye-catching collections from talented hairstylists all over the world. INSIDE SCOOP

Subscribe to our email list and be among the first to receive industry announcements, Contessa news and more!

#SoYouThinkYouCanColour

PHOTO CONTEST

Peach Perfect

Congratulations to Julio Rodriguez of Valentini Hair Design in Guelph, Ont., for winning our “So You Think You Can Colour?” Peach Fuzz contest! Visit our website to learn more about his winning look.

SAY HELLO TO FALL WITH THE LATEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES IN COLOUR, CARE, STYLING AND MORE.

Created in a collaboration between Australia-based hairstylist Jenni Tarrant and colourist Amber Bullock, who work together and collectively share more than 60 years of experience, the Forge collection is the product of the pair’s creative bond and artistic evolution. Inspired by their love for the craft, Tarrant and Bullock created a selection of eye-catching haircuts and colour that complement each other. From their asymmetrical, precision cuts to their bold use and placement of colour, this collection is sure to inspire you to find balance in your looks. They may even encourage you to focus on teamwork this season!

A Treat for Texture

Build bonds and repair waves, curls and coils with Olaplex’s new Bond Shaping Technology.

Created to support all curl types, the new Bond Shaping Technology from Olaplex helps repair internal hair structure, strengthens and reshapes curlforming bonds and then locks them in place to rebuild natural curl patterns. In addition to containing the brand’s signature bond-building technology, it features a unique peptide composed of 23 amino acids, allowing for deep penetration of the cortex to help reconnect and strengthen up to six points of a disulfide bond within its application area. The new technology is included in Olaplex’s new Bond Shaper Curl Rebuilding Treatment, which is a three-step, curl-restoring salon service that repairs, rebuilds and redefine curls in just one visit. This service also helps control frizz through 15 washes, improves curl retention and is safe for colour-treated hair. Bond Shaping Technology is also included in Olaplex’s new No.10 Bond Shaper Curl Defining Gel, a reparative, curl-defining styling gel that revives natural curl patterns while enhancing curls for healthy shine and shape. The treatment and gel contain coconut-avocado milk, which is high in lauric acid, fatty acids and essential vitamins, helping to fortify curls and reduce breakage. They also contain a curl retention compound that forms a curllocking barrier to maintain definition, smoothness and shine.

More To Love

Expand your colour oferings with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora Vibrance relaunch and new-and-improved Chroma ID Express Bonding Colour Masks.

Igora Vibrance now features new shades, including natural and pastel hues, to complement its existing demi-permanet colour portfolio and allow stylists to further cater to today’s colour trends. Plus, back by popular demand, the brand has brought back its 0-89 booster! The colour range now features Schwarzkopf Professional’s Fibrebond Technology, which minimizes hair breakage during colour services and offers more flexibility to provide more service options for all hair types. To top it off, the line is also reducing its carbon footprint with recycled plastic and paper packaging. Now using a vegan and PETA-certified

Get Ready for Kao’s Creative Xperience 2024!

Kao Salon Division is hosting an up-close-andpersonal educational event featuring artistic teams from its brands, including Goldwell, KMS and Oribe for hands-on cutting, styling and colour.

The two-day event will be held at the JW Marriott in Vancouver on September 8th and 9th, while on September 29th and 30th, the Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto will feature presentations, a cocktail party, educational breakouts, meet-andgreets with 17 international and national artists, prize giveaways and a community area for the latest from Kao’s brands and academy.

For more information and to register, visit kaosalonacademy.com.

formula and a 300mL pump bottle, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Chroma ID Express Bonding Colour Masks are available in six shades—Bright Copper (7-77), Ruby Red (6-88), Pearl Silver (9,51), Beige Sand (9,5-4), Frosted Lavender (8-19) and Dusty Pink (9,5-19)—that are intermixable and can be used for express colour services like neutralization or refreshing colour. The new formula features a soft and creamy consistency, allowing for quick and easy applications,

and features integrated FibreBond Technology, which enforces structural bonds and repairs damage to leave hair smooth and conditioned. It also contains low-salt technology that improves colour penetration and coverage, and panthenol that seals the outer cuticle for healthylooking hair that shines. Lasting up to 15 shampoos, the colour masks have a developing time of only 10 minutes and are ideal for low-commitment, fastcolour services.

Skincare for Hair

Help your clients nourish their hair from the inside out with Moroccanoil’s Scalp Care collection.

Featuring four new products and one tool designed to relieve discomfort while protecting and promoting a healthy scalp, the line has been formulated with fumaria extract, which is rich in puriﬁed glycans that help protect the scalp from external stressors to soothe and relieve discomfort. It also contains swertia japonica extract, a natural herb that supports the area and enables hair growth, and bioactive antioxidants derived from a natural blend of herbs that protect the scalp and hair from oxidative stress and the efects of sunlight, pollution and chlorine. The line has been crafted with a series of natural oils, including an aromatherapeutic blend of lavender, tea tree, and bergamot, which help address the needs of the scalp while ofering a spa-like sensory experience.

The Purifying Scrub is formulated with argan shell powder to gently exfoliate and reduce visible flakes, oils and buildup while refreshing the hair for a more lightweight feel. The Revitalizing Scalp Tonic is a dermatologist-approved, fast-absorbing and lightweight daily leave-in treatment that helps support thicker and fuller hair over time. It helps strengthen strands, allowing them to be less prone to falling out while also balancing and hydrating the scalp. The Scalp Balancing Shampoo and Conditioner ofer daily relief to the scalp, creating a balanced and refreshed result that also leaves hair feeling soft. This power duo also hydrates the scalp to reduce visible flakes, oiliness and the appearance of redness. The Scalp Massage Brush gently exfoliates and massages the scalp, detangles hair and features soft silicone bristles to simulate the pressure of fingertips. Helping remove buildup, it can be used wet or dry, and in addition to being made from recycled plastic and plant fibres, the brush is also ergonomically designed to fit in your palm for ease of use.

Decadent Colour

Create this season’s trending chocolate brown and vanilla latte tones with Joico’s LumiShine mocha and natural beige shades. Plus, strengthen hair with Defy Damage In A Flash!

Whether your brunette clients are looking to achieve coffeeor chocolate-inspired tones, the latest addition to Joico’s LumiShine permanent crème colour series, Mocha and Natural Beige, which includes eight new shades (Mocha 3M, 5M and 6M and Natural Beige 5NB, 6NB, 7NB, 9MB and 10MB), can help create the rich-looking results they’re after. Designed to help cover greys and add dimension, these shades replenish hair and offer up to two times the shine while also helping reduce breakage. Plus, both colour ranges boast the same benefits that LumiShine is known for, such as helping deliver colour longevity and vibrance, offering 100 per cent grey coverage, and being made with low-ammonia, bond-building ArgiPlex Technology, which strengthens strands during colour services.

Create espresso-inspired looks with Redken’s Color Gels Oils Cofeehouse Collection.

Featuring five new permanent shades—4BC All Spice, 6BC Sumac, 7GB Butterscotch, 8NCh Chocolate Souffle and 9NCh Chocolate Milk— the Coffeehouse Collection is the perfect palette for fall to help create delicious-looking colour. Whether your clients are looking to transition from their summer blondes or warm up their brunette tones, these saturated tones offer up to 100 grey coverage with a conditioning, ammonia-free formula.

Looking to continue strengthening hair? Joico’s new Defy Damage In A Flash is formulated with a liquid-to-crème formula to help build bonds for stronger hair that’s less prone to breakage. As the newest addition to the brand’s Defy Damage line, In A Flash has a seven-second transformation time, making it an easy add-on service. Safe for colour-treated hair, it makes strands up to 20 times more resistant to breakage and leaves them smooth without added weight. It’s formulated with Joico’s enhanced Bond-Building Technology to help build bonds and strengthen hair fibres, includes liquid keratin, and is siliconefree and PETA-approved.

TO USE, CLEANSE THE HAIR WITH JOICO’S DEFY DAMAGE PROTECTIVE SHAMPOO. APPLY DEFY DAMAGE IN A FLASH FROM THE MID-LENGTH TO ENDS, AVOIDING THE ROOT. WORK THE PRODUCT INTO THE HAIR UNTIL THE LIQUID TURNS TO A CREAM, AND LEAVE IN FOR SEVEN SECONDS BEFORE RINSING.

BOND BLAST

Strengthen hair with the power of one billion bonds with Matrix’s Instacure Build-A-Bond.

What does it take to ﬁght of damage and get healthier, richer-looking hair? The power of one billion bonds! Matrix’s new four-piece system includes Mighty Bonds Shampoo and Conditioner, which are formulated with citric acid and squalane for hair that’s eight times stronger (and 94 per cent smoother!) on the outside. The line’s Instant Revival Liquid Mask contains one billion bonds per bottle to combat damage, and features a liquid, serum-like texture for fast absorption, creating soft, smooth and shiny hair that’s easy to detangle.

The Super Sealing Leave-In Balm ofers up to 72 hours of frizz control with heat protection up to 450°F.

The Countdown is On!

Light and Bright

Transform your level-nine blondes with Pravana ChromaSilk’s Platinum Toner warm shades.

While the idea of platinum colour has become synonymous with icier tones, that doesn’t have to be the case. With the new Pravana ChromaSilk Platinum Toner shades, you can now embrace trendy warm hues with three striking ammonia-free, demipermanent tones: Platinum Spice, Platinum Gold and Platinum Blush. Offering fast toning that neutralizes in five minutes and deposits in 10 minutes, the new shades deliver a polished platinum finish without having to mix with clear. Plus, they last up to 15 shampoos!

Platinum Toner shades, you

Everything you need to know about the 36th annual Contessa Awards gala.

With the Contessa Awards gala approaching, get ready for an unforgettable night on Sunday, November 10, 2024, at the Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto. In addition to our pre-event cocktail party and on-site afterparty, this year’s gala is jam-packed!

We’re happy to share that Toronto-based, Contessa-winning hairstylist Palma N’Sheluvzit will be returning as our master of ceremonies.

Multi-Contessa-winner Tony Ricci will be kicking off the festivities with a dramatic show opener. Ricci is also the recipient of this year’s Hall of Fame award!

For this year’s stage presentations, we’re so excited to welcome Akin Konizi and HOB Academy all the way from London, U.K., who will be making their Contessa debut, on behalf of Wella Company, with a brand-new show that spotlights their award-winning editorial haircutting, styling and finishing prowess.

For our show-stopping grand finale, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Canadian team, led by multi-Contessa-winner Michelle Oliver, will be taking the stage to showcase bold colour, cuts and styles.

Sassoon Academy Toronto will also lead a short segment in celebration of the company’s 70th anniversary. In case you haven’t heard, Sassoon Academy Toronto is also this year’s Education Sponsor and will be gifting many Contessa winners with an education voucher valued at $1,490!

Tickets go on sale September 25th, so don’t delay in securing yours for the biggest night in Canadian professional beauty!

You’ll also want to mark your calendars for our semifinalists’ announcement, which will be included in our weekly newsletter on September 22nd. Finalists will be announced in a special video on our social media on October 7th. Stay tuned for more details!

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): MATRIX, REDKEN, SEXYHAIR, PRAVANA

Get ready to be inspired at Redken Fusion 2024!

With unbelievable creativity and immersive education from global artists, educators and inﬂuencers, Redken is gearing up for its highly anticipated Fusion show. From October 27th to 29th, the three-day event will be held at the Sheraton Centre Toronto Hotel and features a grand opening ceremony with on-stage presentations and demonstrations, education seminars, a VIP cocktail party, gala dinner and themed celebration party. This year’s education lineup includes a range of classes from colour, cuts, barbering and texture to social media, business and more, and will include international and national Redken artists and educators, including Sam Villa, Sean Godard, Cindy Duplantis, Jorge Joao, Max Gourgues, Tasha Parker, Farhana Premji, Chanpreet Bhasin-Lal, Sandra Couto and more.

Visit redken.ca/fusion for more information and to purchase tickets.

Long-Lasting Looks

Help style and protect your clients’ hair with two new product launches from SexyHair.

Whether you want to add volume or protect strands from humidity, SexyHair’s latest offerings are sure to be your secret weapons this fall and into the busy holiday season. The Volume Flex Texture Spray is made with microfiber technology that uses fine fibres that cling to hair to create a fuller and more textured look. A lightweight formula that won’t weigh hair down, it helps provide a tousled texture and long-lasting volume that can be reactivated by a simple touch. The brand’s Weather Proof Frizz Control, which provides up to 72 hours of humidity protection while helping tame frizz and flyaways, has been revamped to allow for up to 450°F of thermal protection. It also shields hair from UV and pollution with a light hold and invisible finish.

Elevate your skills at Oligo Professionnel’s Atelier 2024!

Held at the Doubletree by Hilton in downtown Montreal from October 19th to 21st, Atelier by Oligo Professionnel is a three-day event where “creativity meets mastery.” Featuring workshops on colour, styling and business building, the classes will include Oligo educators, artists and industry experts, including Misael Aponte, Jean-Sébastien Chalut, Jerry Chang, J Ladner, Rebecca Taylor and Nina Tulio. For a more customized experience, attendees will have the opportunity to select four out of six workshops, allowing them to tailor their learning to meet their individual needs and interests.

For more information and to purchase tickets, visit oligoprofessionnel.ca.

Flake Of

Help your clients shake of itchiness and irritation with the new Dandruf Shampoo from VERB.

This dermatologist-approved shampoo helps address scalp flaking, dryness and irritation associated with dandruff while helping prevent the recurrence of symptoms without stripping the hair of moisture. Made with three per cent salicylic acid, which helps control itchiness, irritation, redness and flaking due to dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis, the shampoo also includes clary sage oil to help soothe the scalp and zinc PCA to control the appearance of excess sebum. The Dandruff Shampoo reduces flakes after just one use while minimizing the recurrence of symptoms by increasing hydration.

BaBylissPRO Nano Titanium 1’’ U-Style Iron

Straighten, wave and curl with all-direction ﬂoating plates for 100 per cent contact with the hair

Comfortable rubberized cool tip and thumb rest to assist in styling

Available in a 1” barrel for medium, loose, S-shaped curls and 1-1/4’’ barrel for loose, relaxed S-shaped waves

Five digital heat settings up to 437°F

Includes dual voltage and nine-foot swivel power cord

Includes dual voltage and ninefoot swivel power after 60 minutes of inactivity

Bio Sculpture

Get your clients ready for apple picking season with Thornberry, a deep and rich red shade from the Great Outdoors Collection.

CND

Perfect for crisp fall days and sweater weather, Take Root, a burgundy crème shade from the Dynamic Duality Collection, is sure to be the perfect pop of colour this season.

OPI

Take your clients’ nails back to the early 2000s with CD Rom-antic, a rust red metallic shade of red from the Metallic Mega Mix Collection.

Gelish

Inspired by individuality, the In Frame Collection features Fifteen Minutes of Fame, a warm chestnut crème shade that’s perfect for cozy fall days.

ORLY

Add a bit of sparkle to your clients’ fall festivities with Rustic Root, a reddish brown shimmer shade from the Terra Nova Collection.

Fashionable Manis

We’ve rounded up some nail looks from New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 to inspire you and your clients this season.

1 For Jason Wu’s show, editorial manicurist Jin Soon Choi opted for a shorter nail look, creating a black cherry ombre effect.

2 Nail artist Julie Kandalec used CND products to create a coffin-shaped red French manicure that featured sparkly tips for Christian Cowan.

3 Also for the Cowan show, Kandalec stayed with the coffin shape, but opted for a white base and finished each nail with a silver star decal.

Kitty Claws

4 Nail artist Tara Haye kept things classic with a short, taupe-shaded nail that featured a gold French manicure for the Tiffany Brown Designs show.

5 Editorial nail artist Miss Pop created a wet-blended vertical ombre look that featured a bold red hue for the Retrofête show.

6 Also for the Retrofête show, Pop opted for a more classic and natural finish with a classic pale pink.

In celebration of Hello Kitty’s 50th anniversary, OPI has introduced a palette inspired by the global icon that spans several generations. The OPI x Hello Kitty Collection features six new limited-edition shades ranging from bold crèmes and shimmers. Following the first collaboration, which debuted in 2016 and featured one of the brand’s iconic shades, Let’s Be Friends, the latest collection is reminiscent of Hello Kitty and is made to evoke joy and playfulness. The collection is available in OPI’s Nail Lacquer and the brand’s newly relaunched GelColor made with the brand’s Intelli-Gel Techology, and includes the shades Let’s Be Friends Forever, a sheer pink-gold shimmer (a fresh take on the classic colour); Hello Kitty, Hello Pretty, a semi-sheer red simmer; Big Celebration, a sheer peachy shimmer; Follow Your Heart, a deep pink crème; Supercute Color, a semisheer lavender shimmer; and Hello Kindness, a chartreuse shimmer. OPI has also released new xPRESS/ON nails, which include styles that feature both iridescent glitter and solid hues with Hello Kitty bow and face nail art.

Perfecting

Placement

SINCE THE SHAPE AND STYLE OF A HAIRCUT CAN IMPACT THE TYPE OF HAIR COLOUR TECHNIQUES USED—AND THE OVERALL END RESULT—WE’RE BREAKING DOWN SOME KEY HAIRCUTS AND COLOUR TECHNIQUES TO USE AND AVOID TO PROPERLY EXECUTE THESE LOOKS.

It goes without saying that a haircut can enhance hair colour and vice versa. While it’s often recommended to colour hair first before cutting, there are exceptions to the rule, especially when it comes to haircuts like the bob or pixie, or when highlighting hair.

“The interplay between cutting shapes and hair colour technique is crucial,” says Victoria Hazell, an Ontario-based salon owner, barber and educator for BaBylissPRO. “For instance, with layered haircuts, dimensional colouring techniques like foils or highlights are ideal because these techniques enhance the layers by adding depth and movement, making the hair more dynamic. Whereas, if you have a blunt bob, it pairs beautifully with a solid-colour application because of the uniformity and its sleek, polished manner. Tailoring colour techniques to clients is essential for seamless and flattering results.”

“It’s always necessary to keep in mind the desired result and the shape of the face,” adds Francois Bouffard, a Quebec-

PRO TIP BOUFFARD SUGGESTS INVESTING IN MANNEQUIN HEADS TO PRACTICE COLOUR PLACEMENT ON VARIOUS HAIRCUTS AND TO GET CREATIVE WITH DIAGONAL, VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL LINES.

“THE MOST IMPORTANT ADVICE I WOULD GIVE TO A STYLIST IS TO UNDERSTAND THE UNIQUE STYLE OF A PERSON. WE CAN LOOK AT SOMEONE AND SUGGEST HOW WE THINK [THEIR HAIR] WILL LOOK BEST, BUT IT MAY NOT BE THE SAME WAY THEY LOOK AT THEMSELVES IN THE MIRROR. KEEPING IN MIND THEIR OWN PERSONAL STYLE AND THEIR OVERALL MAINTENANCE OF WHAT THEY’RE TRYING TO ACHIEVE IS CRUCIAL.”

VICTORIA HAZELL, BARBER AND EDUCATOR FOR BABYLISSPRO, RICHMOND HILL, ONT.

based colourist and educator for Joico and Olivia Garden. “Whether it’s to augment or soften the features of the face with the cut or the colour, the haircut will impact the colouring technique. For example, a massive cut on a major colour placement will not enhance the colour effect achieved, yet a very deconstructed cut might not have the expected result.”

Being in Sync

When it comes to any hair colour or cut, a consultation is important for understanding what your client is looking for and to help manage their expectations.

“Whatever the colour technique is, it should create an impactful result,” says Hazell. “It’s really important to know your client’s unique style and take it into consideration when you're deciding on what type of haircut or colour to give them because, ultimately, they’re going to be the ones wearing it and they want to feel confident and beautiful with whatever style and colour.”

For shorter hairstyles, Hazell says it’s important to look at your client’s face and profile before deciding on haircutting and colour techniques. “For example, if I have a client that has a pixie cut and fine hair, I would want to give them something more bold and contrasting to give them a little more shape in silhouette,” she says. “For a bob, I’m probably leaning towards something that’s a little bit more full-colour just to keep it solid, sleek and shiny.”

For mid-length to longer hairstyles, Bouffard suggests using diagonal

positioning techniques for a more natural and cohesive look. “A variation of one to two colour levels in an alternating movement gives great effects,” he says. “I like the techniques of artistic balayage combined with diagonal veils with paper on these lengths so there’s a visual effect of softening the mass of the hair.”

Texture Matters

In addition to length, a client’s hair type and texture can greatly impact the overall haircut and colour result. It’s important to communicate this with your client, especially when they may be bringing in inspiration from celebrities and social media.

“Oftentimes, straight hair can showcase interesting colour patterns, such as high-contrast or bold colour placement, such as colour blocking,” says Hazell. “Someone’s everyday lifestyle, their unique style and how they wear their hair would definitely be deciding factors on what kind of colour you want to showcase.”

“For somebody who has really thick hair, the main thing you want to keep in mind is the overall shape you’re trying to achieve,” she adds. “For someone who has finer hair, you can give them something a little bolder with more contrast to enhance the width and the shape.”

When working with different hair textures, such as curls, Bouffard says it’s important to have a clear idea of the end result before creating the look. “Keep in mind the shape of the desired cut and length for a tension-free cut,

and placement of colour in respect to the natural curl,” he says, adding that it’s important to understand the unique needs and expectations of curly-haired clients.

“If you’re working with curly hair, you can often benefit from doing something more like a free-hand technique, which kind of enhances the hair’s natural volume and flow,” says Hazell. “I would definitely go with something more natural versus something contrasting.”

Grow with the Flow

For shorter hairstyles, such as pixie cuts or bobs, Bouffard says it’s important to consider how the hair grows and how that will affect the colour. “In the case of shorter hair, always keep regrowth in mind,” he says, adding that in very short or shaved areas where the regrowth appears more quickly, it’s important to adjust the colour so that the effect is less apparent.

As more clients are looking to stretch out the time between their hair appointments, Hazell says it’s important to consider their commitment level when deciding on the haircut and colour. “If someone has less time and fewer appointments, I want to give them something that’s a little bit more natural and more hand-painted, so it stretches out the longevity of what they’re trying to achieve,” she says. “For someone who may want to go with something a little bit bolder and has more time and more of a budget, you can get more creative, completely customize them and know they can also maintain it.”

WITH LAVINIA POPESCU , OLAPLEX CHIEF SCIENCE OFFICER

Welcome to the next generation of OLAPLEX technology

Olaplex Holdings, Inc. (Olaplex), the innovative, scienceenabled, and technology-driven hair-care company, recently announced the launch of its new, patented Olaplex Bond Shaping Technology, created to support curly hair of all types and textures. The collection aims to repair the internal hair structure to strengthen and reshape curl-forming bonds and lock them in place to rebuild natural curl patterns.

The new Olaplex Bond Shaping Technology in the bond-building category marks the next wave of scientiﬁc innovation from Olaplex. This new technology was created to directly serve the full range of curl types and textures, from wavy (2a-2c) to curly (3a-3c) and coily (4a-4c), supporting each individual curl structure from the inside out.

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BEYOND

BLONDE

As blonding continues to be in high demand and a great way to build business in the salon, there’s no better time to consider elevating your skills in lightening, foiling and toning. We checked in with expert colourists for their top tips, tricks and go-to techniques.

BY ALEAH BALAS

Blonding continues to be a massive revenue driver for salons, fueled by the ever-growing demand for personalized, high-quality results. As today’s discerning clients seek toptier colourists and stylists capable of delivering on every request (even those that set new trends), it’s crucial to continually evolve and elevate your skill sets to attract and retain valuable clientele.

“When celebrities go to an event and their hair looks amazing, we know that colour is going to be asked for in the weeks that follow,” says Micayla Patterson, an Ontario-based stylist at Flaunt Orangeville and an educator for Oligo Professionnel. “Staying on top of education is huge! Making sure l’m up to date on trends and learning new techniques that are efficient and going to give me the most impact in the least amount of time is super important.”

Breaking Down the Trends

As of late, we’ve seen celebrities, including actress Sydney Sweeney and singer Sabrina Carpenter, continue to keep warmer blondes in demand while stars like Hailey Bieber and Sofia Richie Grange have shifted to a more natural, mushroom blonde. A departure from popular bright and icy blondes, these shades create a softer aesthetic with more subtle and rich tones.

“I’m seeing a lot of these old-money blondes and more dimensional blonding,” says Sheena Bligh, owner of Harlow Gold Salon in Vancouver and a Moroccanoil artistic team member. “Clients are looking to be a bit more on the natural blonde side, which I’m really starting to love.”

She adds that because bright blondes have been highly sought after for so long, she’s welcoming more dimensional looks as a fresh change. In order to achieve these looks, Bligh often turns to a combination of methods. “I’m using a lot of people’s natural hair colour to create pockets of dimension,” she says, adding that she uses a demipermanent colour to create dimension with lowlights to transition them from chunkier lowlights to a more blended result.

While Scandinavian Blonde was the look of last season, it created a harsh grow-out that was not feasible for most clients who don’t necessarily have the time or money to maintain the style, which requires visits every four weeks.

In these cases, using softer techniques can be effective, creating a similar effect when pulling their hair back.

For those still seeking a brighter blonde effect, there are other ways to get there without a full head of foils.

“It’s super important to soften the regrowth,” says Tammie Axworthy, a Goldwell artistic member and the owner and creative director of The Hair Boutique in Brantford, Ont. “You either want to do a base break on it at the sink, or you can use a brightener, which I always use to boost up the regrowth a

little bit.” She recommends adding at least two different tones of blonde to create a look that adds dimension to their natural colour.

Top Techniques

As trends make their way into the salon, foiling techniques continue to evolve, and stylists must stay current to deliver the best, most efficient results.

“I’ve really been enjoying alternating,” says Inez Goodwin, a Redken artist and a manager and blonding specialist at Manhattan Hair Co. in Red Deer,

“BLONDING SERVICES ENCOURAGE CLIENTS TO COME BACK IN FOR TONING SERVICES TO REFRESH THEIR COLOUR. IT’S AN INVESTMENT, WHICH, IN TURN, GENERATES MORE MONEY FOR THE SALON.”

CHRISTOPHER MAROUN, OWNER OF SALON CHRISTOPHER’S AND SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL BRAND EDUCATOR, MONTREAL

Alta. “Going in between a medium weave, a babylight or a slice gives a lot more dimension. Sometimes we get scared of doing something because we want it to be really soft and blended, but then you over-highlight and it gets lost a little bit.”

Goodwin adds that she’s developed a technique she calls ‘perimeter pop’ for clients looking for a burst of brightness that transforms without the need for dozens of foils. Working on the perimeter of the head, directing everything forward, she adds a bit of teasing and tipping out the ends to create a brighter look.

Similarly, Axworthy enjoys focusing

PRO TIP

UNDERSTANDING

THE DENSITY OF THE HAIR IS CRUCIAL WHEN PLACING YOUR LIGHTENER OR COLOUR SINCE SMALLER SECTIONS WILL COME ACROSS MUCH DIFFERENTLY IN FINE HAIR THAN IN COARSE STRANDS.

on the front to create a big impact for clients. Using a contour foiling technique to brighten everything you can see from the front, the goal is to contour with foils around the face.

“I’ll start with a lower developer, such as a 10-volume, and we’ll start at the bottom, doing diagonal back slices all through the hairline. We do a slice and then a weave. Alternating that pattern builds more blonde rather than just going in with weaves.”

That said, she cautions against going in with full slices because it doesn’t create the same softness and can sometimes lead to visible lines. Instead, she advises using alternating techniques to give the hair some lightness, and when you get towards the front, shift to a diagonal in the same pattern of weave and micro-slice for more dimension.

As for clients looking to explore blonding for the first time, Bligh utilizes a piggybacking technique

that helps improve efficiency while providing dramatic impact. “What I do is I piggyback the foil, meaning that for every one foil they do, I do two; I do my first foil with whatever sort of highlight I’m going to do, and I give that a soft tease,” she says. “Then, I pick up all the hair that I left out of that foil—I call it my piggyback—and I give that a bigger tease before I paint it. That is what gives me really high-impact blondes without having to do two sessions.”

Toning Tips

With blonding, toning is essential and can make the difference between an average and incredible service. While creating a set of go-to formulas can be helpful for consistency, stylists can sometimes get into the groove of using their favourite formulas on too many clients, neglecting the customization that will help elevate the service.

Patterson recommends discussing your client’s lifestyle, including how much time they spend styling their hair, in the sun and even how often they wear their hair up or down, in the initial consultation to have a better understanding of the overall service.

“If I’m blonding someone and they’re outside a lot, I like to put a clear gloss toner over what I’ve already toned, similar to a top coat on your nail polish,” she explains. “If I know they’re washing their hair often, putting a clear gloss helps me seal it in a little bit longer so that they’re getting the most out of the money they’ve invested in their service.”

As trends shift to a warmer honey tone, stylists have developed new strategies for clients to maximize the colour and shine of the hair, bringing out the gold and accentuating the warmth. While newer stylists can sometimes fear

this warmth, Bligh suggests embracing it strategically.

“If you want a bright blonde, you need gold because it reflects light, whereas ash absorbs light,” she explains. “That’s a huge learning curve for people because lots of new stylists are scared of gold. I put a dash of it in every single formula I use.”

Another concern for newer stylists is overtoning. Because it can be a delicate balance to find the right shade, Axworthy suggests erring on the side of caution. “A lot of times we end up with uneven tones because there are many different processes going on in the hair. And one of the most important things to do is even out that porosity before you do the toning.” She recommends using a system equalizer spray to even out the porosity prior to toning.

Because overtoning can happen to the best of us, Christopher Maroun, Montreal-based owner of Salon Christopher’s and a brand educator for Schwarzkopf Professional, recommends having a ‘first-aid kit’ on hand to eliminate emergencies at the sink.

“[Overtoning] happens,” he says. “That’s why we have detox shots you can mix with the treatment and within five to 10 minutes, whatever toner you put on will slide off. It’s one key product that I always have in the salon, and I believe every salon should carry it.”

The Truth About Texture

In his business, Maroun often works with clients who have curly, textured hair and share his own Lebanese background. For this type of hair texture, he prefers a zigzag method when foiling.

“Instead of doing big weaves, zigzag gives you more of a natural, sun-kissed look,” he says. “So it doesn’t look like you have a lot of highlights and it gives a nice look overall. It’s a technique I’ve been using a lot lately.”

Goodwin, who specializes in curly and textured hair, also uses the zigzag technique on her clients, emphasizing triangles to create a multidimensional, natural-looking effect. “A big factor in doing any type of curly colours is really understanding what their curl pattern is,” she says. “I like to use a lot of triangles when I’m working with curly hair. I don’t just mean a triangle section; when I’m doing a foil, I’ll do a zigzag instead of a straight section because we know the hair already has a lot of

Tools of the Trade

Having tools that provide precision and consistency benefits can set you up for success. Axworthy suggests using Framar’s Bleach Blenders, which are flufy textured gloves that help remove lightener without friction. “A lot of times when you’re fully blonding hair, it can take an hour and a half to get on. By the time you’re done with the last piece, the bottom (or first pieces) are ready to come out. So you can take the foils out with Bleach Blenders that wipe of the bleach, and it dries it so it stops working. That way you can get your proper processing time for each section.”

While certain tools, such as a colour board or paddle, can sometimes have a stigma of being used by less experienced stylists, they continue to be a way to keep your application process organized.

“I ﬁnd that the positioning is very neat,” says Maroun, who uses a board for all of his blonding services. “You use less product and the application is way better. I’ve been using it for a couple of years and can’t work without it.” He adds that if you’re struggling to ﬁnd one that works for you, consider creating your own. Maroun worked with a custom plexiglass company in his area to create a board that met his needs with custom sizing and measurements.

Going back to the basics can be an excellent way to ensure precision for clients. Recently, Goodwin has gone back to using a scale to measure exactly what she needs, a practice she hadn’t used since her early days. “I was 100 per cent one of those people that would just use a scoop and eyeball it,” she admits. “When I actually started to slow down and weigh out my product, I noticed a huge improvement with my outcome.”

She adds that being intentional with your tools can also help with better margins in the long term as you aren’t having to replace supplies as often. Goodwin has started mixing with a plastic whisk as opposed to her brushes to keep her tools pristine.

“Over time, if you’re continually mixing with your brushes, they get frayed and bent,” she says. “Especially if you’re doing hair-painting techniques, you want your brush to be nice and stif so you can get that beautiful sweeping motion. If it’s looking like an old broom, you’re not going to get the same efect and it’s going to look messy.”

In addition to the beneﬁts of having a range of lighteners that vary in strength, lift and consistency (powder, cream and clay), experts also recommend using diferent types of foils. Axworthy uses six types of foils, all of which perform a diferent role, ensuring that she’s always using the right one for the job.

movement. It has a lot of highs and lows, so we want to create that within our colour as well. It can really complement the texture they have in their hair.”

Lessons Learned

Although these experts have honed their craft over many years, they continue to learn valuable lessons through experience, their peers and sometimes through trial and error.

“People spend a lot of time trying to make it perfect, and the more perfect you try and make the finish, the more lines you’re going to see,” says Axworthy. “Having regular patterns through the head makes more sense than just doing back-to-back-to-back foils. It doesn’t look as natural. You’ve got to change up your techniques, so try a little bit of teasing, slicing and weaving. When you put that all together, it looks much softer.”

Axworthy adds that using more foils can be beneficial, but only if done properly. “Always lock them in,” she

says. “What I mean by that is putting another foil on top of a foil to lock it in. Every time you try to fold a foil that doesn’t have something on top of it, it slides a little bit and then you get bleeding. And the number one thing you have to fix in the sink with blondes is bleeding.”

Another tip to prevent bleeding? When working with long hair, leave the foils long and fold from the sides as opposed to the bottom to reduce heat buildup from rolling and overlapping. When it comes to beginning a service, Maroun notes that a common mistake he sees is rushing into the foiling process without proper planning. “I find that people don’t section properly and that’s your GPS for your whole technique,” he says. “If it’s not well-sectioned, it can cause confusion and then you won’t be equal on each side. It only takes about 10 minutes to just to make sure that everything is perfect on both sides, as well as the back and front. It’s a preview of how the hair will fall.”

PRO TIP

WHILE SOME STYLISTS WILL WET THE HAIR IN AN EFFORT TO STOP THE LIGHTENING OR COLOUR FROM PROCESSING, WATER CAN ACTUALLY REACTIVATE THE PRODUCT AS IT ADDS OXYGEN. UNDERSTANDING THE PRODUCT’S PROPERTIES IS PARAMOUNT TO THE SUCCESS OF A STYLIST, AND ESPECIALLY FOR COLOUR SERVICES.

three days minimum,” he says, adding that as an additional maintenance practice and revenue driver, he also recommends clients come to the salon for a professional tone every six weeks if possible. “It’s an investment to get and keep that beautiful shiny colour they want,” he says. “I always pre-book them after their service for toning. It’s not mandatory, but it’s [highly recommended].”

While at-home purple and blue shampoos can be a great way to keep brassy tones at bay between services, with warmer blondes, they can end up leaving the hair too ashy, taking away from the tone you’ve worked hard to create in the chair.

“A lot of people use these shampoos, but I tell [clients] not to use them within the first month because they strip out the toner,” says Maroun.

“People overuse their blonde shampoo,” adds Axworthy. “When this happens, it ends up taking on the ends that are porous, and not taking on the areas that are new and fresh. We have to be careful to educate the clients on how much is too much when it comes to toning.”

Long-Lasting Service

“It comes down to discipline,” adds Patterson. “I’m making sure my foils are saturated and I have clean sections. I have my foils folded neatly as I go, and when I’m backcombing, I’m not overdoing it and making big tangles. If I’m not purposeful about the process, I’m going to have a different outcome.”

Consultations are often an overlooked way to perfect a service, especially with so many variables at play with blonding, including the maintenance commitment from the client. To break things down, Goodwin has a cheeky approach to understand her clients and ensure they’re on the same page.

“I like to ask, ‘How often are we wanting to see each other? Are we going to be newly dating and spend all of our time together or are we long-distance daters or an old married couple that barely see each other?’ Some people want to be in the salon a lot more, but they just don’t have time. I’m basically trying to understand how committed our relationship is about to be.”

Creating an incredible look in the salon is one thing, but ensuring the client loves it between services is another. After all, your name is associated with their hair, and you want to ensure it looks great even as it grows out.

When it comes to maintenance, Maroun has some key guidelines for his blonde clients. “I tell them not to wash their hair for at least two or

Advising clients on the importance of professional haircare and using a colour protection shampoo that stops fading is also key.

“I’m focused on helping clients understand that you’re investing in your hair, so you need to spend a little bit of extra money on your products at home,” says Patterson. “They’re more concentrated, so you’re not going to go through them as fast. While they do cost more, longevity-wise, it’s 100 per cent worth it.”

“AS A STYLIST, IT’S REALLY IMPORTANT TO KEEP UP TO DATE ON WHAT’S NEW BECAUSE, SEASONALLY, THINGS CHANGE, AND WE HAVE TO KEEP OUR CLIENTS FRESH. WE ALSO WANT TO OFFER THEM NEW IDEAS, WHICH IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT WAYS TO RETAIN A CLIENT.”

TAMMIE AXWORTHY, OWNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF THE HAIR BOUTIQUE AND GOLDWELL ARTISTIC MEMBER, BRANTFORD, ONT.

Correct

Yourself

While colour corrections can be a time-consuming and daunting part of the job, they can also provide opportunities for colourists to step outside of their comfort zones. We gathered a range of expert tips and tricks on how to maximize and refine your corrective colour skills to benefit your bottom line.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

Whether you’re addressing box dye and banding botches, uneven colour or dramatic before-and-after transformations or simply taking your client’s shade up or down a couple of levels, corrections are becoming the norm for many colour services.

“It comes with the territory,” says Eric Medeiros, a Toronto-based salon owner and Wella Professionals passionista. “It’s a part of our job, and it can happen to one of our favourite clients who decided to change things up by going

to another stylist or doing things on their own. I want those clients to feel comfortable enough to come back to me and know that I can help them.”

Although some challenges may arise during any colour correction, for the most part they’re a great way to build

trust with your clients while continuing to push yourself to learn and try new things behind the chair.

“Every colour correction appointment is going to be different, and that’s my favourite part,” says Tori Higginbotham, a Malibu C educator and salon owner

PRO TIP WITH COLOUR CORRECTIONS, EXPERTS SUGGEST TO EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED. ASK THE CLIENT TO SHARE A PHOTO OF THEIR HAIR BEFORE THE APPOINTMENT TO GIVE YOU A BETTER IDEA OF WHAT TO EXPECT.

Proper Pricing

From time invested to products used and everything in between, there are a variety of factors to consider when determining how you and your team can efectively price your colour services. Here are a few tips from the experts.

“Pricing is always the most difcult conversation. We can have this element of guilt but when it comes to colour corrections [and colour services in general] they equal time and time equals money. For me, I always have a starting point, which for corrections is three hours, and that is worth whatever amount. If I go over that, I start charging hourly.”

KARYNE MCKEAN, SALON OWNER AND FREELANCE EDUCATOR, BROOKLIN, ONT.

based in Louisiana. “Stylists can feel intimidated because they weren’t prepared in the past to take on what they need to achieve in the future. It all depends on the tools you have in your arsenal and having motivation to push yourself to want to learn.”

“In today’s world, most people are colouring their hair and like to change it on a regular basis,” adds Karyne McKean, a salon owner and freelance educator based in Brooklin, Ont. “So a colour correction doesn’t always have to be these big, intense changes. For

“I try to charge by time. I think one thing stylists don’t think about including in their pricing is wear and tear on their bodies and tools, so think about adding that extra little bit to make sure you consider those issues.”

JOHANNA COSTANTINI, HAIRSTYLIST AND MATRIX ARTISTIC EDUCATOR, WINNIPEG

“We don’t charge by the hour, but I believe in taking into consideration what you should make in an hour and what your time is worth. I know we’ve all had times where we’ve cashed out a client and felt like we shortchanged ourselves. It’s not the best feeling and you have to make what you’re worth. In my salon, every tube costs and the salon should not be paying for the product. We add that to the price. You don’t want to rip people of, but we have to make money for ourselves and our salon.”

ERIC MEDEIROS, SALON OWNER AND WELLA PROFESSIONALS PASSIONISTA, TORONTO

“I base my prices of of the area. Market research, cost analysis and the value of proposition. Stylists and salons should understand the local market, and this includes looking at competitors’ pricing and understanding their target demographic. You also have to assess the local economy. Being very accurate about pricing ensures we maintain proﬁtability.”

– TORI HIGGENBOTHAM, SALON OWNER AND MALIBU C EDUCATOR, LOUISIANA

a client who wants to be darker in the fall and lighter in the summer, there’s an element of correction in it and these principles can be used in all aspects of your life as a colourist.”

The Consultation

Before mixing any colour, you need to get to the root of the issue. A consultation is critical to ensure you understand your clients’ hair and colour history.

“Knowing the history of their hair is vital because whatever has been done

to it within a few years, depending on its length, is still held onto in the hair,” says Medeiros. “Consultations can sometimes seem like an interrogation to the client, but you have to let them know that you’re trying to get a better understanding of their hair in order to succeed, especially since corrective services can often be your first time working with that client’s hair.”

As with any consultation, the types of questions you ask matter. Since you want the client to feel comfortable opening up about their hair experience and encourage them to be completely transparent, it’s important to try to keep the consultation conversational.

“I like to avoid close-ended questions,” says McKean. “I avoid anything that will result in a ‘yes or no’ answer to ensure that I can gather as much information as possible. This approach really gets them talking and makes them feel comfortable discussing what’s going on with their

“A LOT OF STYLISTS FEEL UNCOMFORTABLE WITH COLOUR CORRECTIONS BECAUSE OF THE UNKNOWN. WE’RE WORRIED ABOUT DISAPPOINTMENT FROM THE CLIENT AND THE END RESULT. IT’S IMPORTANT FOR US TO KNOW HOW TO BREAK IT DOWN BECAUSE THESE ARE CLIENTS WHO ARE LOOKING FOR HELP. WE LIVE IN A WORLD WHERE WE CAN GET EDUCATION EVERYWHERE. IF A STYLIST WANTS TO IMPROVE, EDUCATION IS THE ANSWER.”

BRANDON DESLAURIERS, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PORTFOLIO COLOURIST AND HAIRSTYLIST, LA GIROUETTE, MONTREAL

hair, what they like, what they don’t like and what they want to change.”

If you’re still unsure about a client’s hair history after speaking with them, strand tests can help ease any doubts. “Sometimes, you need to see what’s in their hair and then go from there,” says Johanna Costantini, a Winnipeg-based hairstylist and Matrix artistic educator. “Usually, I will do a test strand to see the integrity of the hair and to get a history. Lightener doesn’t lie, so when you do a test stand, it gives you a history. You can see every colour or highlight they’ve had previously, and I’ll always use a bonder lightener to give that extra insurance.”

Since colour corrections are typically priced based on the type or length of service while also factoring in the level of difficulty and amount of product necessary to do the job, understanding a client’s budget and expectations are critical in ensuring you’re both on the same page before moving ahead.

“Budget is a very important thing to discuss and be upfront about so that there are no surprises along the way,” says McKean. “You don’t want the client to have sticker shock at the end of their appointment, so providing an estimate of the cost will help them—and you—understand if they can afford

what it is we need to do, or if we have to compromise and come up with an alternate plan.”

“One big thing that we have to battle is expectations,” adds Brandon Deslauriers, a L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio colourist and hairstylist at La Girouette in Montreal. “There have been times when I’ve turned away a colour correction because I felt that the expectations were unrealistic in the time frame and price point I was giving, so I knew I was never going to be able to make the client happy. Their level of hair damage can also be a factor as sometimes their hair can’t take it. Getting the client the final result they want at the price point they’re looking for can sometimes be more of a struggle than the job at hand. To manage their expectations, I like to overestimate the amount of time between their next visit to the salon. I think if you give them a realistic estimate, they’re always going to expect that and more.”

Colour Conundrums

Although every colour correction appointment can vary based on a variety of factors—including the final result, the client’s hair history and more—experts say they often see clients coming in

due to technical mishaps made in the original colour application.

“Some issues that clients are facing are technical or application issues, which can include uneven colour, banding, spottiness or excessive fading,” says McKean. “It’s really important to assess the hair, break it down and see what’s going on at the root versus the midshaft versus the ends. It’s important to understand which issues need to be tackled first and in what order, which formulation you’re going to be using and the application method you’ll follow. They’re all part of a corrective service.”

While banding—the layering of colour on previously coloured hair that creates shades with uneven tones and dimension—is a common corrective service, Higginbotham says many stylists are still intimidated by it.

“I always encourage my stylists to not let it scare them and to take things low and slow,” she says. “Don’t rush through it. Take fine sections and baby steps, and it will be smooth from there.”

“We see banding a lot in blondes and grey coverage clients,” adds McKean. “You typically get that when sections are taken too big and thick, and the colour can’t penetrate properly. It could also be that the mixing of the colour is

PHOTOS: HAIR: KAREN THOMSON, KAM HAIR AND BODY SPA, SCOTLAND, MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN,

CLARE FRITH,

PHOTO: MICHAEL YOUNG

done differently each time or that the colour hasn’t been left on long enough to properly process.”

While reaching for your trusty lightener may be your first course of action, McKean says it’s not always the best choice. “What I like to do, if I can, is to try to avoid going in and bleaching to get those light pieces out,” she says, adding that sometimes you can use those warmer tones to your advantage rather than just lightening hair and possibly causing unnecessary damage. “Sometimes it might be a situation where you have to use more than one formula per strand. That’s where it’s important to see what’s going on in different areas of the hair because you might have to formulate differently for different sections. Blending things out and working in foils is always a good method.”

Costantini says she prefers to start with the strongest band first. “I’ll tackle that first because my goal is to always try and get the most even canvas along the way.”

Regardless of how much colour experience you may have, colour corrections often require you to go back to the basics when it comes to colour theory and using the colour wheel and swatches.

“If I see bands, I know I have to go

back to the basics,” says Medeiros. “It’s easy to be overconfident and say, ‘I know that band looks like a level five or six.’ Even if I can guess, I still want to have that reassurance by putting a swatch next to the natural hair. From there, you can figure out where you have to go.”

“Let’s say the client has a level-five root but right after that, the stylist who previously did their root touchup used a level seven, so now there’s a band,” he adds. “Beneath that, the client has a level six, so now we have levels five, seven and six. I know that I have to lift the five and balance out and tone down the level seven. As long as I can balance out the depth in the top half, the rest is seamless from there.”

In addition to banding, colour corrections can often bring in clients who are dealing with uneven colour or spottiness, which are sometimes caused by foils slipping during the application process. To avoid this, experts recommend sandwiching your foils instead of folding them, so they don’t mesh together. You can also use cotton in between your sections, which can help prevent lightener or colour from bleeding onto previously coloured hair.

Dealing with Diferent Tones

Oftentimes with corrective colour appointments, you can find yourself battling unwanted tones or encounter clients who think their hair has a too warm or cool tone. In these circumstances, it’s important to rely on your fundamental colour skills.

“If a client comes in with yellow in their hair, you want to work directly across [the colour wheel], which is violet, so you would add more violet

to the formula,” says McKean. “I think the trick with this is making sure you’re using the shade at the correct level. If your client is lightened to a level eight and you’re trying to tone them with a level nine or 10, you’re not going to get very much control over that warmth.”

Other factors, such as hair porosity, can also help explain why a client’s blonde may end up being ashier than intended. “The porosity can grab too much of the ash pigment,” says Deslauriers. “If that’s the case, you and the client might have to look at changing up their shampoos and treatments. You can also go in and gloss with a bit of a warmer pigmentation and see if it’s the client’s desired shade. Sometimes, clients don’t understand what they really want so they might say they want ash, but they really don’t, so I’ll almost always have a drop of a warmer pigment just to make sure the hair doesn’t get too ashy.”

Medeiros adds that although no one wants to see orange or yellow tones unless they’re choosing to go red or copper, trying to get your client on board with embracing a warmer finish is a smart strategy. “If the client doesn’t want ash but doesn’t want red, we could go towards a caramel colour,” he says. “Those warmer tones last longer, so sometimes we have to embrace it. With that being said, if I just lifted the hair with a balayage and the hair is yellow, I can’t put a warm tone on top of that because it’s going to be even warmer. So if caramel is the desired colour, I’m going to use a toner to help neutralize it while adding warmth at the same time.”

In addition to considering your client’s hair history, ensuring that you don’t forget about other factors including hard

“COLOUR CORRECTIONS CAN MAKE US FEEL LIKE WE CAN TAKE ON MORE AND MAKE US MORE CONFIDENT. AS MUCH AS I SAY I LIKE TO UNDERPROMISE AND OVERDELIVER, I TRY TO MAKE CLIENTS FEEL COMFORTABLE IN KNOWING THAT I CAN GET THEM THERE.”

ERIC MEDEIROS, SALON OWNER AND WELLA PROFESSIONALS PASSIONISTA, TORONTO

water and mineral and environmental pollutant buildup can help you achieve a brighter end result. “I do a lot of corrective colour on blondes and an issue that I see a lot is stylists not being able to achieve the brightest blondes in the healthiest way possible,” says Higginbotham. “Not every stylist is aware that buildup and hard water can affect blondes and they try to just lighten over all of that.”

To combat the issue, she says her first step would be to use pre-treatments. She recommends Malibu C’s remedy treatments, such as Crystal Gel, to remove minerals and other buildup for improved colour deposit. She also often uses the brand’s CPR treatment to help remove the first layer of product or colour on her clients’ hair that may prevent stylists from achieving the brightness that they’re looking for. “Hard water and mineral buildup can really affect the way your colour lifts, so err on the side of caution and understand what’s underneath your clients’ hair before lightening because, if not, it can wreak havoc and cause you other issues down the line.”

In addition to treatments, a colour remover may also be helpful when

tackling issues such as colour buildup. While stripping the hair may be intimidating to some colourists, experts say that giving yourself a lighter canvas to start the process on can make things easier. “For a client who wants to go lighter—for example, going from black to a chocolate brown—I would want to strip the hair,” says Medeiros. “A lot of people are scared of that word, but it’s moreso lightening the hair by taking away that colour from such a dark pigment and lifting those tones out.”

While your colour techniques and application process will depend on a variety of factors, experts agree that taking things slow is your best bet. “I would prefer not to do a full bleach-out on a client and opt to do things gradually over a few appointments,” says McKean. “Something like a balayage is a really great way to do that because you’re tackling a lot of hair around the face and through the ends of the hair, so you can get a lot of brightness around where the client would see it the most.”

“The more you do it, the more you’ll feel good about it,” adds Costantini. “Just take each step as it comes and never try to meet the end goal right away because it may change after step one.”

Darkness and Depth

With a number of clients looking to embrace more natural tones, some corrective appointments can even be for clients who are looking to try darker hair trends.

“It’s something that clients have been doing a lot more often,” says Medeiros. “Many clients feel like less is more. Before they wanted more ash and lightness, but now they want more natural and warmth. With that being said, when I’m toning clients down, I tell them to play with it. Depending on what the client is looking for, I’ll recommend a darker blonde or light brown. Instead of them just being a darker brunette, I like to push clients towards playing with lightness because they have to find what suits them. Then we can go darker as they get more comfortable and it’s not so daring on them. When we’re so used to doing balayage all the time and we know where lightness should be, I reverse that in this situation. Where should depth be? Where should those pockets of darkness be? I’m all about dimension, so I would root smudge the hair, lowlight it if necessary and do an all-over tone down.”

Deslauriers says he often notices colourists making one crucial mistake when working on clients who want to darken their previously lightened hair. “The biggest thing is filling the hair,” he says. “Even if it’s just two shades darker, I always fill the hair. Let’s say the client is a level 10 and they want to be a seven. Many stylists will just put a level seven onto the hair. With that, I find the result ends up being very hollow, transparent and the longevity of the colour isn’t there.”

“I’m considering the end result and whether they want a solid colour or they want to see something that adds depth and dimension, which, realistically, is more what people are going to want to see,” says McKean. “That might be the time to consider a reverse balayage, so adding depth back into the root and a bit through the mids and ends. You also want to find out if they want to see a highlighted effect and what tones they want in their hair. These are important to consider with corrective appointments because, typically, lighter hair tends to be more porous, so we have to consider that when going darker. Adding warmth back into the formula is going to give you more balance and light reflection.”

CO LLE CTIO NS

September+October

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level.

With its striking shapes and bold fashion tones, this Canadian collection beautifully showcases creative colour placement that’s brought to life with meticulous haircutting and ﬁnishing skills.

CONTESSA 2024 FINALIST, MASTER COLOURIST David Vendittelli, Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. MAKEUP Rachel Hilton

WARDROBE STYLING Marilyn Vendittelli PHOTOS Natasha Gerschon

This British collection blurs the lines between reality and fantasy to showcase a range of cuttingedge haircuts and striking styles with masterful colour techniques.

HAIR Daniele de Angelis, Toni&Guy, U.K. COLOUR Stuart Matuska MAKEUP Kelly Mendiola

WARDROBE STYLING Borna Prikaski PHOTOS Kevin Luchmun

With unbelievable colour placement and out-of-thebox creativity, this Dutch collection celebrates the beauty of individuality by combining a spectacular array of vibrant and muted shades.

HAIR Mark van Westerop at Pro Solo, The Netherlands MAKEUP Angelique Stapelbroek

WARDROBE STYLING Ed Noijons PHOTOS Studio IvodeKok

Showcasing creative colour placement prowess, this Canadian collection is a total knockout.

CONTESSA 2024 FINALIST, CANADIAN COLOURIST Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. MAKEUP & WARDROBE STYLING Timothy Hung PHOTOS Gary Liu

With its ethereal and otherworldly allure, this Dutch collection juxtaposes textured styles with eye-catching colour placement.

HAIR Louise Vlaar, Pro Solo, The Netherlands MAKEUP Angelique Stapelbroek

WARDROBE STYLING Ed Noijons PHOTOS Studio IvodeKok

This Aveda collection combines edgy colour placement with lived-in styles for a modern take on wearability.

COLOUR Luis Gonzalez, North America artistic director, Aveda HAIR Allen Ruiz

MAKEUP Peter Phung PHOTOS Lauren Krysti CREATIVE DIRECTOR Antoinette Beenders

This Canadian collection shines with soft shapes and dimensional colour with muted and saturated tones.

CONTESSA 2024 FINALIST, CANADIAN COLOURIST Jessica McColm, Freelance, Edson, Alta.

MAKEUP Ana Duran WARDROBE STYLING Jessica McColm PHOTOS Crystal Tsang

Making Dreams Come True!

Be part of the biggest celebration in Canadian professional beauty!

November 10, 2024

Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto

Featuring special presentations by:

Akin Konizi and HOB Academy for Wella Company

Schwarzkopf Professional Canada

Sassoon Academy Toronto

Show opener by multi-Contessa winner and Contessa 2025 Hall of Fame award recipient, Tony Ricci!

Tickets on sale September 25th

Kyle Gould

For Vancouver-based hairstylist Kyle Gould, it was his time spent living in Ontario and styling his friends’ hair before their nights out in Toronto that eventually led him to pursue a career in hair. Even though he never dreamed of being a hairstylist, it’s something he’s enjoyed for 20 years!

After being nominated for the Master Colourist category last year, Gould decided to compete in the Contessa Awards for the very first time.

“Being nominated was such an honour,” he says. “I felt a little intimidated at the thought of entering the Contessa Awards for the first time in this category, but I was really excited and ready to share some of my art with the world.”

Showcasing Strength

Inspired by female superheroes, Gould says he wanted to focus on the strength of women by showcasing diversity and inclusion. “I work for Suki’s in Vancouver, and I’ve always been so inspired by Suki Takagi and the strength she exemplified in spite of the racism and sexism she faced in the 1970s,” he says. “Suki’s has now grown into one of the strongest and most recognized brands in Canada and internationally, and I wanted to showcase the strength and power that lies within women through hair.”

To bring his vision to life, Gould held meetings with his mentor, multiContessa-winning hairstylist and colourist, Michelle Pargee, and hairstylist Tai Do, who worked on the cuts for Gould’s collection.

“I knew I wanted three very different looks that all told a story together,” he says. “For the short one, I wanted to focus on bold strength. I found that all of my looks used colour blocking as, to me, it represents strength through shapes and lines. This was also my copper redtoned look, and I wanted a shape that represented fire transitioning to yellow on the ends.”

Gould says his second look was not only a lot of fun to create, but that it was the first concept he created for this collection. “I lightened the model’s hair to a level 10, which took time,” he says. “After Tai cut the shape, I placed my colour block in the front, panelling each one out and rinsing in between each section. I did a faint green shine line in the front that led into the pink block. This look was challenging, but it really got the creative juices flowing.”

For his final look, Gould stuck with his colour-blocking theme and placed them within his base colour. He then added a detailed colour melt on the model’s right side, which took hours to achieve the perfect blend.

All In This Together

Although this was his first experience creating a Contessa collection, Gould didn’t hold back. He even made selections for the wardrobe to ensure that the hair remained the focus. “I worked on the concept with Michelle, knowing that the wardrobe is super important, but that it could be simplistic was something I kept in mind,” he says. “I loved the idea of leather and black looks, especially when it comes to [showcasing] strength.”

In addition to being named a finalist, Gould says the best part of the entire process was the teamwork. “Watching it all come together, I saw and felt myself grow so much,” he says. “The looks ended up better than I could have ever hoped. I was so excited the whole way through. To learn that I was nominated, made semi-finalists and finalists for my first time was so wild! It was totally unexpected and gave me such a boost to keep creating.”

“[Competing] has not only helped me grow as a hair colourist, but also as a person.”

Colour God

From his humble Canadian roots to working in the bright lights of New York City, Sean Godard is no stranger to the world of hair. Learn how the award-winning colourist got to where he is today, and how he’s doing his part to shine a spotlight on opportunities in the beauty industry.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

Tell us about yourself and how you got your start in the professional beauty industry.

I got my start like a lot of others did; not knowing exactly what I wanted to do for my career, but knowing I was creative and into the arts. At that time, a hairstylist was not really viewed as a solid career choice—some people probably still feel this way—but I was always interested in doing hair and would often do my hair and my friends’ hair in high school and was pretty good at it, so I figured if I went to school for it, I could be even better and make it a career. I haven’t looked back since.

You grew up in Halifax before moving to Toronto. What was that like and how did your time in Canada inﬂuence your view on hairstyling?

I started out in Halifax and was a successful stylist at my first salon job right out of school. I figured it was time to take the leap and move to the big city and try and make it. What they say about being a big fish in a small pond versus a small fish in a big pond is definitely true! It was definitely a lot harder to “make it” in Toronto than I expected. I struggled finding a salon that suited me and saw my potential. I eventually got involved with Redken and they helped me to be the best stylist that I could be by always pushing me and helping me grow. Over time, I landed in Liberty Village where I had a solid eight-year run at a salon

and was really able to grow my clientele and even help run the salon. It was an amazing experience.

I understand that at the beginning of your career, you (like many others today) didn’t realize the number of career opportunities that are available to hairstylists. What helped change your perspective?

I think, at first, you only focus on clients in the salon, and that’s really what most stylists go into this for, but I was fortunate to be around creatives that were involved in more elements of the industry. I was also an early adapter to social media when that became a thing in 2012, and that’s truly what opened so many doors for me. Because of social media, I was discovered by Canadian fashion magazines and was asked to do my first spread. From there, I got noticed by TV producers and I went on to become an on-air makeover expert on daytime TV. I realized how incredible social media is for exposure because, in the past, these opportunities would have required a talent agent to get the job.

You’re known for your exceptional colour creations and transformations. What do you most enjoy about the hair colouring process?

I always love the full story you can create with hair colour. It takes time and patience, but it can be so much more dramatic than just a haircut. The magic

in cutting is seeing the results right away, but it’s really the colour that ties it all together and completes the story.

You recently won the Haircolor award at the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA). Why are photo-based competitions, such as NAHA and the Contessa Awards, important to you and important for the industry?

This was my second time winning NAHA for Haircolor. I really started competing later in my career because, for the first part of it, I was always focused on education and helping other stylists. Competing in photo competitions is really a great way to elevate your name within the industry among other professionals and major brands that take note of these accolades. Don’t give up on it! It took me a few entries before I actually won.

Since the pandemic and with inﬂation, we’ve been seeing a shift in consumer behaviour with clients wanting to return to the salon less frequently. As a colourist, what are your thoughts on this? What advice do you have for other colourists on ways to build business in the salon?

We’ve seen that shift, but also the shift in trend to being more “lived in,” and honestly, all these trends still require maintenance. I see some of my clients only twice a year for heavy lifting, but every six to eight weeks for a gloss to maintain tone. We just need to realize that this ultimately allows us to book more clients because I’m a firm believer that if your work can grow out well, it increases its value because you’re saving the clients time and money. So [my advice is to] look at it like you don’t see them as often, but when you do, you can charge more. Also, if you break it down and add up the glossing services in between, you end up still making the same ticket from that client. The good news is, it allows you to take on even more clients. The best referral is always word of mouth, and if you can

keep someone’s colour looking good for six months, they will tell everyone they know. I built my brand around lowmaintenance colour and my clients loved me for it and sent me tons of referrals.

While colour corrections can be great for business, they can often be a challenging and time-consuming process. Any tips on how to handle these? Is there anything about the process that you’ve struggled with and how did you overcome it?

The most important thing is to always underpromise and overdeliver. In the consultation, I always make it clear on what is achievable in one visit and recommend a process of several visits versus trying to do it all in one day. Sometimes this can be done within a few weeks, if their budget allows, but it always gives the hair a break in between to recover. I used to go in hard to try to get the end result in one session but, to me, it’s all about the hair integrity. What good is damaged hair in the end, because it won’t hold onto the final colour or

even style well. Ultimately, it’s all about being real with clients. We’re beauticians, not magicians. In the past, I’ve said “no” to clients and they went elsewhere and got their hair damaged. Then they came back to me and listened to my advice. I think the easiest way to avoid selfcreated colour corrections is realizing that when clients ask for a major change, you should always proceed with caution because half the time, they will end up right back where they started. Once a blonde, always a blonde!

You’ve been working with Redken now for more than 15 years. What do you most enjoy about working with the brand?

What I love most is the connection I can make with stylists around the world, helping them simplify hair colour and, ultimately, become more successful behind the chair. For me, it’s all about giving back to the community and Redken truly focuses on that as well. This is our motto: “Learn better to earn better to live best.”

With Redken Fusion coming up in October, what’s it like for you to return to Toronto for the event? What can people expect from this year’s event? It’s always great to return to Canada and connect with stylists I’ve known for so many years who’ve always supported me on my education journey by coming to classes and events. I’m really excited for my class, Hollywood Hair Color, where I’ll be sharing all my tips and tricks that I use on celebrities to create red-carpetworthy colour.

What’s next for you? Anything you’re working on that you can share with us? I’m expanding beyond hair colour and I’ll be leading the hair team for a fashion show at Paris Fashion Week. I couldn't be more excited! I also just finished shooting the global campaign for Redken, which will roll out in 2025. This was a major accomplishment for me because I’ve assisted on these campaigns for 10 years now, but this was my first time getting to lead the entire shoot. I can't wait for everyone to see it!

Photo from Godard's 2024 NAHA-winning collection for Haircolor.

forCaring All

When it comes to repairing hair, enhancing colour vibrancy and improving overall hair health, in-salon treatments can do wonders. Learn about the power of these services and how they can also help build your business.

While in-salon treatments have evolved from deep-conditioning masks to more targeted solutions that offer specialized benefits for every hair type and texture, some stylists fall short when it comes to understanding how to leverage and promote these options to clients.

With many salons noticing a decrease in how often clients are visiting—many are opting to book appointments in lengthier intervals—maximizing each and every service is key.

“Providing your guests with add-on services is without a doubt a great way to build more business and revenue,” says Christin Brown, a celebrity curl specialist and Olaplex global ambassador based in Los Angeles. “With that said, doing it intentionally and with the mindset that you’re impacting someone for the better is a completely different story.”

Understanding the Science

As service providers, it’s important to stay on top of your product knowledge and understand how treatments have evolved, both in terms of ingredients and technology.

Olaplex recently launched its Bond Shaping Technology, which contains a unique peptide with 23 amino acids that offer deep penetration into the hair cortex, strengthening and relinking broken disulfide bonds while locking in curl-forming bonds. Creating visibly stronger and healthier-looking hair,

this new technology is included in the brand’s new Bond Shaper Curl Rebuilding Treatment, a three-step, in-salon service that repairs, rebuilds and redefines all curl types for improved curl shape and definition in just one visit.

“As a curl specialist, I feel like we’re constantly seeking out deep conditioners and masks to help remedy the hair’s dryness,” says Brown. “However, there aren’t a lot of treatments that can truly rebuild and reshape natural textures in the salon without further damage. Olaplex’s Bond Shaper Curl Rebuilding Treatment has come at a time where people are thankfully caring more about hair health and are dedicated to doing what it takes to improve the integrity of hair from the inside out.”

While some stylists may worry about a learning curve associated with onboarding new products and

treatments, they can be a lot easier to master than you may think.

Olaplex’s Bond Shaper Curl Rebuilding Treatment is a simple, three-step service, with each step applied to hair in 10-minute intervals. Rinsing and/ or using heat to improve curl retention and control frizz isn’t required, and the treatment lasts for 15 washes. Plus, it’s safe for colour-treated hair.

“As a pro, knowing there’s a treatment that supports both hair diversity and integrity is a game-changer,” she adds. “This product targets frizz, restoration of shape and, as always, strength, which makes it such a dynamic tool for anyone who works with texture.”

Truth About Treatments

Let’s face it, many in-salon treatments have been marketed as ways to repair damage by deeply conditioning the hair. With take-home versions also available

“AS A COLOURIST, THE INTEGRITY OF A CLIENT’S HAIR IS MY MAIN PRIORITY, SO THE IDEA IS TO START WITH HEALTHY HAIR AND END WITH HEALTHY HAIR.”

CHRISTIN BROWN, CELEBRITY CURL SPECIALIST AND OLAPLEX GLOBAL AMBASSADOR, LOS ANGELES

in some cases, it can be difficult for clients to understand the unique benefits of in-salon options.

“As hairstylists, we’re problemsolvers,” says Kate Ojczyk, a Kerasilk expert and owner of Blunt Salon in Bowmanville, Ont. “If you’re able to help solve a client’s problem in one service, it helps build an instant trust and they’ll see a change in their hair right away.”

While Kerasilk offers a wide range of take-home masks that, according to Ojczyk, are “an extension of their stylist at home to help cut down on drying and styling for better hair days,” the brand’s Keratin Treatment is a customizable, in-salon service that transforms unmanageable wavy, curly or frizzy hair with long-lasting results. Its 100 per cent vegan formula includes Biomimetic Silk, a biotechnologically sourced hydrolyzed protein that’s based

on a special combination of amino acids. Replicating the benefits and composition of original silk, it also contains the brand’s Kerasilk KeraShape Technology, which helps create new keratin bonds and strengthens hair with the help of shea oil and vitamins C, A and E.

In the case of keratin treatments, they’ve often had a stigma associated with straightening treatments and a misconception that these services are only for clients who wear their hair straight. However, that’s not the case.

Kerasilk’s Keratin Treatment has two service options: Control, for a powerful yet gentle transformation to smooth hair, and Refinement, for natural-looking, smoother and manageable results.

“You can customize it to any hair type or texture,” says Ojczyk. “I’ve used it on all types of hair textures and curl patterns, including coily hair. The definition is unbelievable, frizz is reduced and it helps bring back the curl pattern. The number one reason why curls don’t bundle is due to a lack of moisture. When the hair is moisturized, curls have nice shine, reflection and a boost in colour vibrancy because colour appears more saturated and intense when hair is moisturized.”

Since Kerasilk’s Keratin Treatment offers results that last up to five months, the service takes two-to-four hours to complete in the salon, depending on hair’s length. The treatment is applied evenly in half-inch sections after hair has been cleansed and is 80 per cent dry. The product is then left to absorb for up to 15 minutes. For the Control Service, hair is rinsed and dried with medium heat before the treatment is sealed with four to six passes of a flat iron (heat recommendations will range depending on hair type to avoid colour fading or overuse of heat). Hair is washed again

before the Kerasilk Smoothing Finishing Serum is applied to seal in the service and hair is styled. For the Refinement Service, hair is rinsed and styled after the 15-minute absorption time.

“They’re not going to get the smoothing effects, but they’ll still see a noticeable difference,” says Ojczyk. “It’s great for wash-and-wear clients or someone who’s just looking for high moisture, a bit more manageability and a little less volume control. When wearing natural texture, they’ll see more definition. They can still wear their hair curly but it’s more manageable.”

While understanding how the treatment works and how it can benefit your clients is key, so is communicating with your client to ensure they understand how and why the treatment will help address some of their hair concerns.

“Instead of straightening, I think it’s very important to say ‘smoothing,’” says Ojczyk. “When you’re talking to your clients or your guests, verbiage is really important to manage the expectations.”

Seeing is Believing

No matter what your client’s hair concern may be, finding a customized solution is the best way to not only build business in the salon but also loyalty with your clients.

“In-salon treatments are important because we need professional guidance, tools and services that can assist our clients with their hair journeys,” says Brown. “Having clients come into the salon for treatments lets them know that we care about their lived experience and that they don’t have to embark on their journey alone. It’s truly empowering for both them and the stylist.”

“A lot of times, we think we have to do a big change with a cut or colour to transform clients,” adds Ojczyk. “Oftentimes just targeting the shape, condition, moisture and structure can really boost somebody’s confidence.”

Distinct

Design

Find out how this Torontobased salon owner and colourist created a functional yet minimal space.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

For Toronto-based salon owner, colourist and educator Sharon Mudavanhu (a.k.a @yogacolourist), opening a salon of her own, Suade, last year made sense for where she’s at in both her career and business.

“I was in a suite before and I ended up having five suites, so five little rooms, with a staff of 10,” she says. “Having such a small space didn’t make sense anymore and we really had to limit our bookings because we didn’t

have enough chairs.”

For the salon’s design, Mudavanhu had a specific vision: she wanted it to be minimalistic and calming yet functional and inviting. Luckily, she found a blank canvas to create her dream space. “When I purchased the space, it was a brand-new building and a completely empty shell,” she says. “There was no electrical, plumbing, HVAC, or any of that stuff, so we had to create everything from scratch.”

Less is More

While Mudavanhu already knew what she wanted her salon to look and feel like, she worked with Jacqueline Rizek, owner of JR Design, who was a client of hers.

“I would definitely recommend working with a professional and, in particular, someone who has designed a salon because it’s so different than working on a house or an office,” she says. “Salons require so many specifics when it

comes to lighting, electrical and plumbing and you have to be able to hire the right contractors. When you work with a designer, they’re able to connect you with the right people who can help.”

Since Mudavanhu was transitioning from working in a suite back to a salon space, she says she wanted to create a more airy and relaxing work environment. “I knew I wanted something that felt spacious because we’d been crammed in suites for so long,” she says. “I wanted something that felt very minimalistic; not too many trinkets or colours. We have a lot of beige tones and I gave my designer a colour palette of neutrals. I didn’t want anything too dark or cluttered, and I wanted

DETAILS

Opened in 2023

SIZE

2,000 square feet

TEAM 14 BRANDS

Joico Revlon K18

Oligo

Celine Claire

WEBSITE suadesalon.ca

SOCIAL @suadesalon

something a little bougie that gave a California or Los Angeles vibe. I’m personally a really chill and calm person, and I feel like it’s reflected in my salon.”

After working with her team to create the foundation of the space, Mudavanhu says they moved on to building the structures, which include arches at each station and a platform for the sinks.

“Each station has its own arch, which clients love because it makes them feel like they each have their own space or little throne when getting their hair done,” she says. “Clients also seem to always comment on our walls where we have a lime wash effect that was painted by hand, and on the windows

that bring in a lot of natural light.”

“I really love our front desk area,” she adds. “We have our name on the cabinetry and a really nice chandelier. I love it, and it’s the first thing our clients see when they walk in.”

Made for Colour

As a big colour salon and home to The Brunette Academy, Mudavanhu and her team added finishing touches to the space with those factors in mind. “Since we do a lot of colour, we couldn’t go with anything too light for the furniture,” she says, adding that she opted for rich, darker brown pieces from Minerva. “We do a lot of lived-in balayage looks, so by the time our clients get to the sink, we want them to be really comfortable. We went for bigger and wider chairs at the shampoo bowls, and our colour bar where we mix colour is really close to the sink, which helps with toning, and our clients can even see us mixing and measuring.”

In addition to those design details, Mudavanhu decided to keep stylists and colourists a bit more separated in her salon, which she says makes things easier. “The colour chairs are closer to the colour bar,” she says. “It also helps because after a client is done with their colour and when it’s time for their finishing services, they feel like they’re moving onto the next part of their appointment.”

“When a space is clean, I think it leaves more room for creativity in our clients’ hair,” she adds. “The work we do isn’t overpowered by the space. Our clients love the vibe of the salon and I think that its design creates its own vibe. And when you add in the people, it enhances it.”

B R AN C H O U T

Headlined by Joico’s artistic director and global brand ambassador, Larisa Love, the event welcomed more than 800 attendees.

A Look Back at Salon Centre’s The Glam Gathering 2024

Salon Centre hosted one of its largest shows at the RBC Convention Centre in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Featuring renowned hairstylists, colourists and industry experts who led live mainstage presentations and demonstrations, the show also featured more than 25 booths from a wide range of professional beauty manufacturers.

When & Where: May 5, Winnipeg

Among this year’s presenters were Contessa 2024 Multicultural Hairstylist winner and Matrix global artist and Canadian ambassador Martin Menard, multi-Contessawinning salon owner and Oriac artistic design team member Tony Ricci, BaBylissPRO educators Benson Hedges and Victoria Hazell, Olivia Garden national trainer Detra Vest Smith, and more.

Salon Centre’s founder and CEO,

| Brands in attendance included Joico, Redken, Matrix, BaBylissPRO, Olivia Garden, STMNT, Oriac, Wahl and more.

Cosimo Minella, took the stage to welcome attendees to the event.

During the event, Olaplex hosted a panel discussion that featured the brand’s CEO, Amanda Baldwin, VP of pro sales, Betsy Hamlett, and global ambassador, Christin Brown.

Inside Olaplex’s Bond Shaping Technology Launch Party

Olaplex celebrated the launch of its latest innovation, Bond Shaping Technology, with a cocktail party at the Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas during the 21st annual Cosmoprof North America, which gathered distributors, sales consultants and industry experts.

When & Where: July 24, 2024, Las Vegas

The new and patented technology is designed to support all curl types and textures, ranging from wavy (2a-2c) to curly (3a-3c) to coily (4a-4c), to efectively repair the internal hair structure by strengthening and reshaping curl-forming bonds and rebuilding natural curl patterns.

The technology is available in Olaplex’s new Bond Shaper Curl Rebuilding Treatment, which is a three-step, curl-restoring, insalon service that helps repair, rebuild and redefine curls in just one visit by strengthening and relinking broken disulfide bonds for improved curl shape and definition. The brand’s new No.10 Bond Shaper Curl Defining Gel, which is a reparative, curl-defining gel that revives and defines natural curl patterns, also features the technology.

“As a salon owner, and [curls] being my lived experience, I was involved in the testing process,” says Brown. “Olaplex has done an incredible job of speaking to curl. It’s a language that a lot of people don’t know, and I think that’s what’s so empowering. This is a way for stylists to feel not only empowered, but to also be opened up to a new genre and community, as well.”

Among the attendees were Amer Jomaa and Vince Riverso of Modern Beauty Supplies.

Sassoon’s salon director, Tricia McQuillan, welcomed attendees and hosted the event. “It’s a very special year for us this year because it’s Sassoon’s 70th anniversary,” she says.

“We want to celebrate this year, and we thought what better way to celebrate is by inviting some familiar faces and some new faces to share some education.”

Celebrating Sassoon’s 70th Anniversary!

Sassoon Academy Toronto commemorated the company’s 70th anniversary with an inspiring and educational look-andlearn event, where educators showcased a range of advanced haircutting and colouring techniques.

When & Where: July 17, Toronto

John Beeson, senior colour director, presented an ’80s- and ’90s-inspired colourblock technique using dark hues reminiscent of Tim Burton’s style.

Sassoon’s senior creative director, Joseph Santiago, shared his expertise on cutting the perfect bob and using the nape section as a guide, matching the natural hairline, and keeping the comb straight. He also recommended cross-checking the work to ensure a precise and reﬁned ﬁnish.

Sassoon’s assistant creative colour director, Kimberley Wallace, showcased a rich chocolate colour and emphasized the importance of maintaining hair’s integrity during colour processing. She also highlighted the value of strong foundational skills to save time and avoid corrective work.

New Distribution

Joico has announced that, efective September 1st, 2024, Modern Beauty Supplies will be the authorized full-service distributor for Joico in Ontario, servicing clients in southern Ontario. This includes, but is not limited to, Toronto, the Greater Toronto Area, Ottawa and the Niagara Region.

Lorraine McAndrew, senior creative director, demonstrated how to elevate haircuts with fringes on two models, one with a face-framing bob with concave layers, and the other with a micro fringe with colour blocking.

Kateryna Ginga, assistant art director, demonstrated haircutting techniques for creating the iconic Sassoon bob on textured hair.

Colour with Conﬁdence

Need a lift when it comes to your lightening and colour techniques? We’ve curated a list of upcoming in-person and virtual education oferings to help you level up your skills.

Foiling Mastery

SEPTEMBER 3, 10 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

Kao Salon Academy, Toronto

Learn, practice and refine the classic technique of foil highlighting, and discover how to adapt your placement to add dimension and achieve a range of colour effects.

Flow

SEPTEMBER 15, 10 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

Kao Salon Academy, Toronto

This one-day course features Goldwell artists and educators, David and Marilyn Vendittelli, who will share their expertise on how to take seven everyday haircuts and colour and transform them into fashion-forward looks. Flow is also about learning how to communicate with your clients to keep them engaged and loyal while also helping to increase your profits.

Expert Formulator

SEPTEMBER 16-17, 10 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

Kao Salon Academy, Toronto

This two-day, hands-on course features Goldwell U.S. national artist Robert Brown, who will focus on colour formulation for different hair textures and canvases.

Unlock Hair Color Formulation

SEPTEMBER 17, 10:30 A.M. TO 12 P.M. (EST)

Virtual — FREE!

Whether you’re a beginner or seasoned stylist, expand your formulation skill set and discover the latest trends, tips and techniques for raising your colour game.

Color Correction SOS

SEPTEMBER 23, 11 A.M. TO 6 P.M. (MT)

International Beauty Edmonton Head Off ice

OCTOBER 21, 11 A.M. TO 6 P.M.

International Beauty, Lethbridge, Alta. Build your colour confidence by unlocking the secrets to the “Law of Color” and discover how to elevate your corrective colour skills by selecting the right products and techniques. Plus, learn how to troubleshoot common colour correction scenarios.

Balayage Like a Pro

SEPTEMBER 9, 9 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

Maritime Beauty Supply, New Glasgow, N.S.

SEPTEMBER 30, 10 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

International Beauty, Winnipeg

Power Blonde with Paolo De Sa

OCTOBER 7, 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

Salon Centric, Mississauga, Ont.

Get tips on how to achieve lighter levels on darker bases from L’Oréal Professionnel’s new portfolio artist, Paolo De Sa.

This hands-on class is designed to help busy stylists elevate their balayage skills to be able to deliver fast, effective colour results that are tailored to their clients’ needs. Get tips for creating some of the season’s trendiest looks, from sun-kissed open air and dimensional foilayage to face-framing highlights and the perfect ombre. Plus, learn hair colour and time-saving hacks for lightening, toning and blending.

Blonding Through the Eras

SEPTEMBER 8, 9:30 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

Salon Centric, Mississauga, Ont.

Travel through time to explore the evolution of blondes. Get expert tips and techniques for achieving full and express blonding.

Power Hours by Redken Canada

Captivate with Coppers & Reds

OCTOBER 28, 1:30 P.M. TO 2:30 P.M. (EST) Virtual — FREE!

Learn how to create reds and coppers for every hair type and skin tone with expert tips and formulas.

Transformational Foilayage

SEPTEMBER 16, 9:30 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

Modern Beauty, Vancouver

OCTOBER 28, 9 A.M. TO 12 P.M.

Maritime Beauty Supply, Charlottetown, P.E.I.

In this theory and hands-on workshop, learn how to get optimal lift with the right products and tools to achieve your clients’ hair goals, and gain insights on teasing, tip outs, root taps and more.

Creative Reds & Coppers

OCTOBER 21, 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

Modern Beauty Calgary Head Off ice

OCTOBER 28, 9 A.M. TO 12 P.M.

Maritime Beauty Supply, Halifax, N.S.

As coppers and reds continue to be on trend, learn tips and tricks for troubleshooting some of the most common colour concerns. Plus, discover placement ideas that will inspire you to think outside the box.

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