Salon Magazine, May/June 2024

THE BUSINESS OF TEXTURE

BENEFITS of offering treatments and services for all hair types

TIPS for upgrading your service menu, increasing your prices and more

HOW TO cut and colour curly, kinky

and

coily hair

Dia color

Alkaline demi-permanent colour.

Fight dullness for 6 weeks of gloss colour*.

MOROCCANOIL TREATMENT PURPLE

Tone-correcting treatment counteracts brassiness while enhancing manageability and shine. Visit MoroccanoilProfessionals.com

“Curly texture is just a fibre. It’s a matter of understanding the differences, so getting the right education is important. ”

SANDRINE TAKAM, MONTREAL-BASED HAIRSTYLIST, MATRIX ARTIST AND EDUCATOR

30

FEATURE Treating Texture

With more clients looking to embrace their natural hair texture, now is the time to take your curly textured skill set to the next level. Get expert tips for caring for curls and find out how these services can help you grow your business.

35

FEATURE Better Business

There’s no doubt that salons are continuing to face challenges in light of the rising costs of living. Learn how to assess your business and make meaningful changes to help you retain clients and staff while increasing profit margins.

39

INSPIRATION Collections

Arjan Bevers; David Barron; Lisa Vann; Michelle Summers Davies; F.A.M.E.; Vanity House; Anne Veck

56

CONTESSA GALLERY

Melfinna Tjugito

Find out how this Vancouverbased hairstylist started in the beauty industry as a makeup artist and how she transitioned into hair, which led to her being named a Contessa finalist for Emerging Hairstylist. Plus, learn more about her collection and how she brought her vision to life.

10

Editor’s Letter

12

LET’S GET DIGITAL

SalonMagazine.ca

Stay in the loop on industry news and Contessa announcements and discover new trends, techniques and inspiration with our latest how-tos and extensive collection archive.

13

WHAT’S NEW Hairlines

Discover some of this season’s latest product launches in haircare, styling, colour and more. Plus, get a refresher on curly haircutting and colouring techniques.

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44

60 INTERIORS

Calm and Cool

Take a look inside this Quebec-based salon, which was designed with European architecture and décor while aiming to offer its clients a refined and relaxing atmosphere.

58

PROFILE

Southern Sensation

Learn how celebrity hairstylist Davontaé Washington got his start in the industry and why he decided to specialize in natural hairstyles, wigs and extensions. Plus, get some of his top tips and tricks for working with natural hair, building a celebrity clientele and maximizing social media.

63

Events + Scoop

66

SALON SOURCE

Lessons in Texture

Boost your confidence and level up your curly-hair skills by checking out our roundup of in-person and virtual education for textured hair.

ARJAN BEVERS, AVANTI KAPPERS, THE NETHERLANDS

LISA VANN, VANN STUDIO, SEATTLE, WASH.

BLONDE YOUR WAY.

Your expertise. Your craft. Your passion. Blonde is so much more than just a color. It boosts confidence, complements inner beauty, and empowers a truly positive attitude. With the extensive lightening and color portfolio by Goldwell, you can create one-of-a-kind statement blondes with a healthy hair look and feel.

Crunching the Numbers

Amid the rising cost of living, many of us are feeling the pressure to stay budgetconscious and look for ways to remain profitable in an ever-expensive world.

While financial literacy isn’t something many of us were taught in school (especially beauty school), it’s often through tough lessons that we learn how to spend wisely and manage our finances.

In “Better Business” (page 35), I chatted with salon owners and coaches to find out ways to minimize costs and maximize revenue.

With that said, it’s also important to remember that there’s a cost of doing business. Investing in yourself, your team and your education shouldn’t be overlooked because, at the end of the day, it’s a priceless expense.

With education for curly hair becoming more prominent—many thanks to the manufacturers who have stepped up to add to or revamp their curriculums—now is the time to seriously consider growing your skill set and creating a more inclusive experience for your clients while adding to your bottom line.

In “Treating Texture” (page 30), we spoke with curly-hair experts for their take on how to expand clientele and offer services for all hair types.

If you’re searching for curly-hair education, we’ve rounded up some upcoming in-person and virtual classes in “Lessons on Texture” (page 66).

As for Contessa news, we’re excited to share our latest entry guide (see the QR code on page 16), with new rule changes, photo shoot tips and testimonials from past winners. Entries open in May, and we can’t wait to see all your amazing work!

While I know it can be discouraging when salon owners and stylists notice a decline (or plateau) in business, it can be just the shake-up you need to try something new or look at things from a new perspective. Instead of thinking about what there is to lose, think about everything you have to gain!

Veronica Boodhan

We help you narrow the search.

PRODUCT GUIDE

Search by product category or keyword. Also, find a comprehensive list of Canadian manufacturers and distributors.

Bold Inspiration

Dive into our expansive archive of editorial collections from awardwinning hairstylists from around the world.

} Now Hiring?

HOLLYWOOD HAIR

Explore the latest red-carpet trends and how-tos to help replicate these looks for your clientele.

Contessa is Calling!

Entries for the 2025 Contessa Awards open in May!

Check out the latest rule changes, photo shoot tips and more.

SUBSCRIBE NOW

If you’re looking to expand your team, use our job board to post new opportunities and attract talented beauty professionals from across Canada.

Want to be the first to know industry news, Contessa announcements and more? Subscribe to our newsletter to stay in the loop.

#SYTYCS

And the Winner is…

Congratulations to Sharday Walker from Hairology Studio in Winnipeg, Man. on winning our So You Think You Can Style? Curly Cuts photo contest. Visit our website to learn more about this winning look.

HEAT UP YOUR ROUTINE THIS SEASON WITH NEW LAUNCHES IN HAIRCARE, STYLING, COLOUR AND MORE.

From vibrant pops of colour to pastel hues that feature a range of textures, the Chroma collection— created by the lead hair team from London-based Stil Salon—is a celebration of individuality. Inspired by the late-1980s music scene and juxtaposed with modern, minimalist Scandi street style, the collection combines bold fashion with a mix of lively colours, sophisticated patterns and lived-in yet polished hairstyles to showcase and suit each individual model.

PHOTO: HAIR: CHRISTEL BARRONHOUGH, ANGELO VALLILLO, JESSICA JAMES, AND YOLANDA DOUGLAS, STIL SALON, LONDON, U.K.,

MAKEUP: KATIE MOORE, WARDROBE STYLING: ROBERT MORRISON,

Stand the Heat

Get a soft, frizz-free finish while protecting hair from heat damage with Oribe’s Gold Lust Dry Heat Protection Spray.

This dry spray protects hair up to 450°F while helping to condition and restore damaged and weakened strands for a touchable and frizz-free finish. As the newest addition to the brand’s beloved Gold Lust collection, the spray can be applied to dry hair before heat styling, used as a finishing product to smooth flyaways and added to second-day hair to restore softness before restyling.

Moroccanoil expands its colour portfolio with Color Calypso Grey Violet and Blonde Voyage Cream

Lightener.

For clients who want to go lighter with their colour in spring and summer or get playful and explore ash tones, the new Blonde Voyage and Color Calypso line extensions from Moroccanoil might be the solution.

Color Calypso Grey Violet

Available in the brand’s demi-permanent Color Calypso formula, the Grey Violet shade extension features four new shades—6GyV/6.82 (Dark Grey Iridescent Blonde), 8GyV/8.82 (Light Grey Iridescent Blonde), 9GyV/9.82 (Very Light Grey Iridescent Blonde) and 10GyV/10.82 (Lightest Grey Iridescent Blonde)—that are perfect for clients who want to try out silver and iridescent blonde shades or are looking to enhance their natural greys. The violet undertones of each shade help correct colour while neutralizing brassiness, and the Color Calypso formula features the brand’s ProArginine and ArganID System to help improve hair’s strength, manageability and shine.

RESCUE AND RESTORE

Strengthen hair with the Ultimate Repair collection from Wella Professionals.

Blonde Voyage Cream Lightener

Formulated for clients with damaged hair who are still trying to reach their blonde-hair goals, the Blonde Voyage Cream Lightener is also ideal for those with more fragile textures, such as curls and coils. Offering up to eight levels of controlled lift and even results, the lightener works with both on- and off-scalp applications and is made with the brand’s BondCare and ArganID System to help reduce damage and breakage. It also features arginine, which is a natural conditioning agent that helps protect hair’s strength and improve its manageability while moisturizing the scalp for additional comfort.

Formulated to rebuild bonds inside the hair cuticle while replenishing the outer barrier, Wella’s Ultimate Repair products help deliver shinier, stronger and smoother results. The products include skincare-inspired ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acid, an organic acid that’s small enough to penetrate the hair fibre at the deepest level to rebuild hydrogen bonds within the cortex, and omega-9, which targets the outside of the hair fibre to coat the surface while filling the cuticle to recreate a protective barrier. Offering inside-out repair for all hair types and textures, the line’s five products include the Ultimate Repair Shampoo, a lightweight cream formula that offers a gentle cleanse while removing impurities such as metals, oils, dirt and pollution; the Ultimate Repair Conditioner, which helps to detangle, strengthen and repair the hair, leaving it moisturized without weighing it down; the Ultimate Repair Mask, which provides smoothness, repair and strength while making hair six times easier to detangle; the Ultimate Repair Miracle Hair Rescue, a leave-in spray that repairs damage to the hair in just 90 seconds and ensures 99 per cent less breakage, 12 times smoother hair and extra shine; and the Ultimate Repair Protective Leave-In, a cream serum that protects and repairs all hair types for results that are eight times smoother. It even offers protection from breakage, mechanical and UV damage, heat (up to 450°F) and frizz.

New Hair, New Look

Help your clients personalize their hair growth journey with Nioxin’s restaged systems.

Nioxin has revamped its beloved systems to allow for a more streamlined yet personalized approach to hair growth. Designed for combatting both light and progressed hair thinning in natural, coloured and damaged hair, each system includes a Scalp + Hair Shampoo, Conditioner and Hair Thickening Treatment.

System 1: Ideal for targeting light thinning of natural and untreated hair, this new system replaces the old System 1 and helps thicken and strengthen hair.

System 2: Helping to combat progressed thinning of natural and untreated hair, this system replaces the old System 2 and is ideal for clients who are looking to thicken their hair while boosting density.

System 3: This system targets light thinning in colour-treated, damaged and dry hair (and is a replacement for the old System 3 and System 5) to help thicken, strengthen and nourish hair.

System 4: This system replaces the old System 4 and System 6 and is designed to combat progressed thinning of coloured, dry and damaged hair for thickened and nourished hair with a boost in density.

Ditch the Dullness

Avoid flat-looking results with L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Dia Color.

Available in 40 shades—ranging from natural and ash to copper and cool brown—the new and improved Dia Color from L’Oréal Professionnel is a demi-permanent gloss colour that helps combat dullness while providing true-to-tone natural reflects and up to 70 per cent grey coverage. Co-developed by hair colouring experts, Dia Color is formulated with the brand’s Melanin Loss Filler technology to help fill gaps from lost melanin, which can contribute to dull hair, and provide six weeks of gloss colour and three times more shine. Formulated with zero ammonia and up to 92 per cent natural-origin ingredients, it comes with ecodesigned packaging, which includes less packaging per gram of formula, a 100 per cent recyclable carton, 27 fewer tons of paper, and 95 per cent post-recycled aluminum tubes.

No Ammonia, No Problem!

Help make your clients more comfortable during their colour services with the new Igora Zero AMM from Schwarzkopf Professional.

Formulated with the brand’s Phytolipid Technology—a blend of micronized oils and optimized pigment mixes that allows for an ideal colour and care experience— Schwarzkopf Professional’s new Igora Zero AMM is available in 28 permanent shades that provide true-to-tone naturallooking colour with up to 100 per cent white hair coverage. Made with improved colour direction, neutralization and highlift colour performance, Igora Zero AMM colour is great for services such as highlifts and refreshes, cool balayage and white hair coverage. In addition to being ammonia-free, the colour is made free of fragrance, without the use of animal-derived ingredients, and features sustainable packaging. Best of all, it can be used with the brand’s existing Igora Royal Oil Developer or Igora Vibrance Activator Gel and Lotion.

Tea Time

John Paul Mitchell Systems unveils its restage of its Tea Tree brand.

With updated imagery, elevated branding and refreshed packaging for a more sustainable approach, Tea Tree now includes bottles and jars that are made with 100 per cent post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic and 25 per cent PCR tubes, and they’re even available in reusable aluminum bottles to complement the refill pouches, which are made with 75 per cent less plastic. New design features also include labels that are designed to not be removed before recycling and a raised S and C differentiator on shampoo and conditioner bottles to increase accessibility. Other Tea Tree categories will be made available with the new packaging throughout this year.

In addition to new packaging, John Paul Mitchell Systems has introduced a Sustainability Scorecard, which is a public benchmark highlighting the brand’s sustainability efforts. Its 2024 Sustainability Scorecard includes efforts such as reducing virgin plastic, carbon footprint and waste to landfill and responsible sourcing, each featuring partnerships with sustainable organizations such as Reforest’Action, Green Circle Salons and TerraCycle.

Everything You Need to Know for #Contessa2025!

With entries opening in May, it’s safe to say that it’s officially the start of Contessa season! What better way to celebrate than with our latest entry guide? Featuring rule changes, photo-shoot tips, winner testimonials and more, it has everything you’ll want—and need— to know for this year’s competition. To read the entry guide, open your phone’s camera to scan the QR code below.

PRO TIP IN ADDITION TO APPLYING THE PRODUCTS TO DAMP HAIR BEFORE STYLING, CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST DANIELLE PRIANO USES THEM AS FINISHING PRODUCTS. THE SMOOTH STUNNER BLOWOUT CRÉME CAN BE USED FOR EXTRA SMOOTHNESS ON THE ENDS OF THE HAIR, AND THE SHINE SHOW BLOWOUT SPRAY CAN BE APPLIED TO THE HAIR AFTER IT’S STYLED FOR EXTRA SHINE.

New This Year!

Find out the latest about our new Sustainability category for salons. Plus, learn about the steps we’re taking to help prevent the use of AI.

ENTRY DEADLINE: September 4, 2024

GALA DATE: November 10, 2024

Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto

Bombshell Blowout

Help your clients get smooth and bouncy hair with SexyHair’s Blowout collection.

SexyHair’s Blowout collection offers two new products that are formulated with acai berry oil for smooth, silky and polished styling. The Smooth Stunner Blowout Créme, which is ideal for medium to coarse hair, helps nourish dry hair while reducing breakage by up to 90 per cent and ensures thermal protection up to 450°F. Ideal for fine to medium hair, the Shine Show Blowout Spray also offers thermal protection and can reduce breakage by up to 85 per cent while providing smoothness and shine.

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, OLAPLEX, HENKEL, SAM VILLA, SEXYHAIR

Eyebrow Era

Help your clients grow, shape and sculpt their eyebrows with Olaplex’s Browbond Building Serum.

Since face shape, skin tone and facial features are all taken into consideration before a haircut or colour service, eyebrows can be a large part of the overall result. Now, you can help your clients achieve their goals with Olaplex’s Browbond Building Serum. Formulated with the brand’s bond-building benefits and Peptide Complex Technology, the serum supports the skin barrier at the brow line and helps support the natural growth cycle for fuller-looking eyebrows in as little as four weeks. It’s also made with an innovative peptide that helps reduce the appearance of new grey hairs, as well as their nourishing complex, for smoother and healthierlooking brows. The three-in-one gel serum is designed to groom and sculpt brows, offers allday hold and even promotes the look of denser eyebrows in just four weeks. Plus, it can be a great add-on product for your clients, helping to increase your in-salon retail efforts.

Express Yourself

Join the Club

Henkel launches its new rewards program, Club H.

Haven’t been feeling the love with loyalty programs? Henkel is introducing its new rewards program, Club H, which combines its 10 professional beauty brands to offer a wide range of customized rewards. With five different tiers based on annual spend, the program is designed to grow with its members, helping them earn points on colour and product purchases to unlock everything from backbar essentials and salon tools to promotions, education and more. Members can track their progress via the program’s personalized dashboard, which offers monthly updates to help them monitor their growth and grow your businesses.

Find out how this Calgary-based salon owner is increasing revenue with her new salon business, Identity.

With more clients concerned about the amount of time (and money) they’re spending in the salon, many salon owners are looking for ways to increase their revenue while being able to serve and accommodate as many clients as possible.

Wendy Bélanger, a Redken artist and Sam Villa ambassador and owner of Influence Salon in Calgary, Alta., has opened an express bar that serves as a one-stop shop for quick beauty services at a reasonable price. After noticing how much money and time she herself would spend on these smaller services, such as a root touch-up, Bélanger decided to open an express bar, Identity, which offers a range of services, including root touch-ups, hair treatments, blowouts, makeup and brow services. She also has a shopping boutique equipped with items from local artists and offers clients champagne, coffee and more! We caught up with Bélanger to learn more about her new location and offerings.

Tell us about the process of opening Identity. Did you experience any challenges with it while trying to run your salon?

Opening any business has its challenges, but the hardest part was opening during the busy season of the year (December). I felt like I couldn’t take my eye off the prize or my foot off the gas at [my salon, Influence]. I had to train and prepare to introduce and execute a whole new concept for the express bar. I had to be clear on my business plan and vision and be sure that I wasn’t taking away from my existing business, physically or financially.

Anyone who owns a business, especially a service or retail business, knows that the first quarter is the worst time. You have to think ahead and be proactive, but this was tough to

do with a business model that had never been done before, and we definitely had to dig deep. This has definitely been one of the hardest, most challenging ventures I’ve done, but I’ve learned that behind every struggle and every goal that you stick to, there’s a reward.

How has the express bar helped you increase business and revenue? Any tips on how to maximize your revenue?

I just hired 10 girls out of hair school so I could train them to work in my root bar. It’s literally impossible for a salon to hire that many people out of school from a financial standpoint. What makes this a win for them is, I’m creating jobs for many students immediately. I’m training them to do the things that matter most in their career: fast

colour services, finishing hair—which has seemed to be a lost art—and, most of all, exceptional customer service. I’m teaching this to them early on in their careers.

The win for me is that I get the opportunity to grow salon professionals in bundles, creating the culture I’ve always wanted and [training] these amazing people for my own company. I’m no longer struggling to find stylists; I’m growing them! TO

The Influence of OLAPLEX

Do you ever wonder what you would do if you unleash your creativity completely and with utter confidence? The influence of OLAPLEX in your salon services and at-home treatment regimens is exactly what will give you the creative confidence you and your clients need.

What makes OLAPLEX so special is that it doesn’t matter what color line you use, OLAPLEX is going to make sure that with whatever service you do, the hair is in its best possible shape and remains strong for ongoing treatments. This ensures safety for the professional behind the chair, and really lets you unleash your creativity!

At the core of OLAPLEX and their product development are salon professionals, and their commitment to hairdressers. What the salon professional needs to succeed, OLAPLEX is there to provide.

In 2014, OLAPLEX discovered and pioneered the use of cuttingedge technology to strengthen and repair hair bonds far below the surface layer of damaged hair. Our award-winning collection and exclusive professional formulas strengthen and repair hair from the cortex to the cuticle layer. With patented OLAPLEX Bond Building Technology™, hair isn’t just healthier, it takes on a completely di fferent quality. Blondes are brighter, brunettes more radiant, and redheads are more vibrant. Today, OLAPLEX is one of the largest independent haircare brands in the world with over 160+ worldwide patents.

OLAPLEX understands the bonds of trust that exist between hairdressers and clients and is committed to supporting salons and stylists so they can be at their best in every way possible. This happens through transparency, free online education, accessibility, support, mentorship, and community. OLAPLEX understands the bonds of trust that exist between hairdressers and clients and is committed to supporting salons and stylists so they can be at their best in every way possible.

Take a virtual course to become a OLAPLEX Certified Stylist — it’s free and available in English, French and Spanish. You will become an expert on hair damage, repair, and OLAPLEX technology. You will also be added to the OLAPLEX National Stylist Locator so clients can come find you and your salon.

Go to pro.olaplex.com for more information, how to become a Certified OLAPLEX Stylist, and more.

IMMEDIATELY STRENGTHEN AND PROTECT

Protect hair health & integrity with the ultimate two-part system.

Smooth Solution

Help clients fight frizz and maintain sleek results with this in-salon treatment from amika.

The Smooth Over Frizz-Fighting Treatment from amika is a salon-only, long-lasting smoothing treatment that helps reduce frizz on all hair types without compromising hair texture or personal style. Allowing you to create smooth results without changing the look and feel of your clients’ hair, the treatment has two applications and styling directions, created by the brand, based on your clients’ specific hair needs. The natural curl-smoothing instructions are ideal for clients with waves, curls and coils, who wear their hair naturally but are looking for increased manageability and reduced frizz. The straightsmoothing instructions are ideal for clients who normally blow out or straighten their hair and offers temporary elongation and sleeker results.

Hot in Here ➣

Turn things up with the Warm Color collection from #mydentity.

Available in four permanent and two demi-permanent pre-blended shades, the Warm Color collection helps you give your clients the warmth they’re looking for all year round. The four permanent shades include three Natural Brown shades in 5NB, 6NB and 7NB, as well as Midnight Flame 7, each providing up to 100 per cent grey coverage, lasting up to 50 shampoos and providing two times more shine. The two demi-permanent shades include Midnight Flame 7 and Midnight Love 6, which are great for grey blending, last up to 25 shampoos, fade true-to-tone and are formulated without ammonia.

WE HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO CATCH UP WITH CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST AND #MYDENTITY FOUNDER GUY TANG DURING

THE BRAND'S COLOR THEORY 201: THE WARM SERIES VIRTUAL EVENT. HE SHARED THAT WHEN REFRESHING COLOUR AND TRYING TO KEEP COPPER AND RED TONES AS BRIGHT AS POSSIBLE, OPTING FOR A DEMI-PERMANENT SHADE CAN OFTEN BE A BETTER OPTION THAN PERMANENT COLOUR.

Crafted for Curls

Care for your clients and their curls with milk_shake’s expanded Curl Passion line.

Perfect for creating soft, bouncy and defined curls and waves, the Curl Passion line from milk_shake now includes a range of products for any curl type. The brand has also developed various steps to work on 2A through 3C curls, so clients can now select their hair type and use the product guide to help hydrate and detangle their hair while achieving their desired curl during styling. Joining the line’s existing shampoo, conditioner and leave-in treatment are six new products that feature an oil complex from the Amazon rainforest that includes pracaxi oil, which helps strengthen the hair fibre while nourishing and conditioning the hair’s structure, and babaçu oil, which restores the lipidic component of the hair while helping to repair damaged areas. The Curl Passion Mask hydrates and nourishes strands to reduce frizz while improving hair’s appearance. The Curl Passion Defining Gel offers flexible hold for defined curls and protection against humidity and frizz. The Curl Passion Curl Perfectionist helps with styling and taming curly hair. Also new to the line is the Curl Passion Primer, which detangles and hydrates curls while sealing the hair cuticle for longerlasting, soft and shiny curls. The Curl Passion Enhancing Fluid offers a light formula that leaves the hair shiny, while the Curl Passion Curl Shaper enhances the natural shape of the curls, creates softer waves and protects hair colour.

OPI

Designed to embrace self-expression, Pricele$$, a rich green crème shade from the My Me Era collection, is sure to help your clients channel their true selves this summer.

CND

Help your clients stand out this summer with Meadow Glow, a cheerful green shade from the Gleam & Glow collection.

Gelish

Flying Out Loud, a dirty-lime crème shade from the Up in the Air collection, is sure to complement any vacation destination.

Orly

Embrace the hot summer days ahead with Field of Wonder, a green crème shade from the Cloud Scape collection.

All Glammed Up

From the Oscars and the SAG Awards to the Grammys and People’s Choice Awards, we’ve rounded up some of our favourite awards-season nail looks for inspiration.

1 Actress and Oscars red-carpet host Vanessa Hudgens was seen rocking extra-long, glazed ombré nails, which were created by nail artist Zola Ganzorigt using OPI products.

nail look for actress and singer Selena Gomez at the SAG Awards by mixing and matching magenta and plum shades.

China Glaze

Start the season off right with Meet Me in the Meadow, a lime-like iridescent shade from the Meadow Dreams collection.

2 Celebrity manicurist Kim Truong opted for glitz and glam at the Oscars with a silver almond-shaped cat-eye nail look for actress Anya Taylor-Joy.

3 Also in silver was actress Lily Gladstone, who was seen at the Oscars with a chrome almond-shaped look created by nail artist Yoko Sakakura.

4 Metals were a theme at the Oscars, and celebrity manicurist Tom Bachik played into it with a classic nude shade for actress and singer Hailee Steinfeld that featured specks of metallic gold flakes to finish off the look.

5 Bachik also created a short and sweet red

6 Actress Ariana Greenblatt was also rocking red at the SAG Awards but opted for a semi-transparent, sparkly take created by Ganzorigt.

7 For actress Sydney Sweeney, Ganzorigt did a chic take on the classic French manicure by finishing off the look with chrome for the People’s Choice Awards.

8 Actress and producer Margot Robbie was pretty in pink and channelling Barbie at the SAG Awards with a short pink look created by nail artist Betina Goldstein.

9 For the Grammys, singer Kelsea Ballerini opted for a nude cat-eye look with silver hues created by Ganzorigt.

REAPING THE REWARDS

Introducing Club H, Henkel’s new loyalty program designed for hairstylists.

Looking for the perfect partner to elevate your salon business? Club H is your key to free products, education and more.

Tailor-made for current and aspiring salon owners and independent operators in Canada, Club H brings together Henkel’s 10 renowned professional beauty brands – Schwarzkopf Professional, Joico, Kenra Professional, DevaCurl, SexyHair, PRAVANA, Alterna Haircare, STMNT Grooming Goods, Authentic Beauty Concept, and #mydentity – and rewards purchases across the board*.

“Our core belief, encapsulated in the mantra ‘What is good for the hairdresser is good for Henkel,’ propels our unwavering commitment to accessibility,” says John Fortunato, head of beauty care – hair professional at Henkel Canada. “Club H, our comprehensive rewards initiative, stands as a testament to this dedication, acknowledging the unique essence of each brand while ensuring a cohesive and impactful journey for every hairdresser.”

loyalty but also an integral part of a thriving community. The goal is to establish Club H as more than just a rewards program, but as a dynamic hub where professionals find not only incentives but a sense of belonging and shared enthusiasm for the artistry of beauty.”

How it Works

Better Together

Club H isn’t just about accruing points; it’s a streamlined pathway to manage and amplify your salon’s potential. The personal dashboard is your new business tool, giving you an easy way to track your rewards, explore your personalized promotions and keeping you up to date on topics that matter.

“Going beyond the ordinary, this turnkey program offers a multifaceted reward system encompassing education, product perks, business-building tools, and travel opportunities,” says Fortunato. “It’s not just a program; it’s a dynamic platform where hairdressers wield the power to tailor their experiences, choosing from a spectrum of opportunities that align precisely with the unique needs of their salon and staff.”

Henkel’s key objective in launching Club H is to create and support a vibrant community of passionate beauty professionals. “Club H serves as a catalyst, fostering connections among beauty professionals, transcending the conventional buyer-seller dynamic,” says Fortunato. “It endeavors to create an immersive experience where professionals feel not only rewarded for their

With five distinct tiers – Starter, Enthusiast, Master, Icon, Legend – Club H rewards scale with your salon’s growth. As your annual spend grows from under $6,999 to over $50,000, the point system grows from 10 to 100 points earned per dollar. Starting from styling essentials and backbar offerings to premium education, all tiers have something great to offer. Plus, once Starter members advance to the next tier, they also receive tier welcome gifts.

“Members enjoy exclusive promotions and diverse rewards, with each subsequent tier escalating the allure with increased benefits, points, exclusive events, and special welcome gifts,” says Fortunato. “Periodic promotions also offer bonus points, accelerating the journey through the tiers. The thrill of redeeming points lies in an extensive rewards catalogue, where members can exchange points for their favourite hair care products, exclusive brand merchandise, or even secure coveted spots at industry-leading workshops and seminars.”

Raising the Bar

Unlike typical programs with static reward pools, Club H’s rewards are as dynamic as the industry itself, offering unique recommendations and promotional offers that are designed to help its members grow their business.

Sign up by June 30th for a chance to win a $100 prize in hair colour, styling or haircare! Winners will be selected in every province (with double winners in Ontario and Quebec).

Club H’s beauty is in its tailor-made approach, evolving with the professional journey of each member. As careers flourish, so do the rewards, ensuring that commitment to excellence and passion for the craft are met with ever-expanding opportunities and recognition within Club H. It’s not just a program; it’s a dynamic reflection of professional growth and dedication to the artistry of beauty. “ “

“What sets Club H apart is its bespoke nature. The program doesn’t just hand out rewards; it crafts a personalized journey for each salon,” says Fortunato. “By understanding the intricacies of product mixes and purchase habits, Club H ensures that every reward is not just relevant but deeply resonant, forming a genuine connection that goes beyond transactions.”

Among the many rewards available through Club H is education. “From hair shows to events showcasing Henkel Professional brands, Club H amplifies its impact by associating with the crème de la crème of stage artists and social media influencers,” says Fortunato. “These talents don’t just stay confined to stages or studios; they come to life in salons and

online, creating an immersive experience that transcends the conventional.”

“The commitment goes further as the Henkel family of professional brands offers a team of 100 top-tier hair professionals, ready to descend upon salons to curate customized education plans,” he adds. “This personalized touch ensures that the learning journey is not just relevant but transformative.”

To join Club H, visit clubh.ca and complete the registration form. Registration is a breeze, just fill out the form and provide all your distributor account numbers to start earning.

*Exclusions/terms apply. Visit clubh.ca for full terms and conditions.

CurlyCuts

WITH A GROWING DEMAND FOR THE KNOWLEDGE AND SKILLS TO CUT ALL HAIR TYPES, WE CHECKED IN WITH TWO TEXTURE EXPERTS FOR THEIR HAIRCUTTING TIPS AND TECHNIQUES FOR CURLY, KINKY AND COILY HAIR.

Understanding all hair types and textures can not only improve a hairstylist’s craft but also help increase clientele by offering a more inclusive salon environment where everyone feels accepted and understood.

“It’s really great to have that curly education so that you don’t have to turn clients away or make them feel

uncomfortable for having the hair texture they have,” says Sharday Walker, a Contessa award-winning hairstylist at Hairology Studio in Winnipeg, Man. “If there’s a concern [from the client], I always love showing them pictures on my page, and I also do a lot of teaching while I’m styling their hair.”

Breaking It Down

When it comes to understanding curly textures, Matthew Scott, a Redken educator and hairstylist based in Bedford, N.S., says there are three things that he finds most important about identifying curls: the hair’s pattern, abundance and density. “Abundance is how much hair per square inch,” he

“YOU’RE NEVER GOING TO GAIN CONFIDENCE IN TEXTURE IF YOU’RE NOT WORKING WITH IT. EDUCATION IS CRUCIAL IF YOU REALLY WANT TO LEARN THE INS AND OUTS OF CURLY HAIR, SO YOU’VE JUST GOT TO GET OUT THERE AND DO IT.”

SHARDAY WALKER, CONTESSA-WINNING HAIRSTYLIST, HAIROLOGY STUDIO, WINNIPEG, MAN.

says. “How much density they have allows you to determine how much you can layer the hair. The less the density, the lower your elevation. The more the density, the higher you can lift the hair and the more even the layer.”

Tricks of the Trade

While framing the face is important for just about any cut, Walker—who was recently named the winner of Salon’s So You Think You Can Style? “Curly Cuts” photo contest—says it’s especially important for curly hair to ensure that you’re creating a haircut that’s customized for the client without overwhelming them.

“I can play around a little bit and do more shorter layers and face-framing to accentuate their face shape,” she says. “It doesn't matter what shape, as long as you’re framing the face. Length is the one thing that I would keep in mind most because that’s the one thing that curly [clients] tend to be most attached to.”

“Personally, I always cut it dry so I can physically see that shape,” she adds. “If they have a wavy or looser texture, I’ll go for longer layers to let it blend well. Usually, with looser textures, the curl will fall a lot sooner and become a lot looser quicker, especially at the nape area.”

Scott says that a technique he likes to

use is one he learned from New Yorkbased master stylist and curl expert Nubia Rëzo, in which curly hair is cut like a flower. “When you think of a rose, the outer petals are a little bit longer and more voluminous,” he says. “On the inside of the rose, the petals are a little bit shorter and more compact. Basically, what you’re doing is overdirecting everything to that centre point, and then carving out the inside of the circle. That way, you’re creating shorter bits so that when the hair curls up, it gives massive volume.”

When working with tighter curls and fine hair, Scott recommends the pinching technique, which involves overdirecting, bringing everything to a centre point and then cutting around the thumb. “This works better on fine textured hair because you can’t really hold it into a rose or circular section in your hand or the hair is just going to fall down,” he says. “You can’t get enough tension, whereas it’s easier to hold coily hair because it expands so much.”

Practice Makes Perfect

While some hairstylists may be under the assumption that working with curly textures is more difficult, Walker says that doesn’t have to be the case.

“Personally, I think it’s easier,” she says. “As long as you know what you’re doing, it’s pretty simple. There’s so much information out there now. Get a curlyheaded mannequin and practice.”

“Coming from Halifax, I really had to travel elsewhere to get the education,” adds Scott. “Luckily, there are more brands that are travelling and offering this education in more areas. And just because you’ve taken one class doesn’t mean you’re an expert in curly hair. It takes time and practice by working with different textures.”

POWERED FOR PROS

With a smaller and lighter design, combined with innovative technology, learn how the Dyson Supersonic r™ professional hair dryer is taking blow-drying to the next level.

Engineered specifically for hairstylists, the Supersonic r™ is Dyson’s smallest, and lightest styling tool to date—weighing only 325 grams!

“It’s completely different,” says Matthew Collins, an editorial hairstylist and global styling ambassador for Dyson. “When I picked up the Supersonic r™ for the first time, it felt like an extension of my hand, it’s so light! The blow dryer is 30 per cent smaller and 20 per cent lighter than the original Supersonic™.”

Design reimagined

When Dyson first introduced its Supersonic™ Professional hair dryer in 2018, it was the first of its kind with an ergonomic design, which includes the blow-dryer’s motor in the handle to help alleviate pressure on the wrist and prevent strain-related injuries such as carpal tunnel syndrome.

While the motor is still housed in the dryer’s handle, the design of the Supersonic r™ is vastly different from its predecessor. “There’s no head to the blow dryer,” says Collins. “If the dryer has a thick head or a long nozzle, you can’t really get into the roots. Now, I can put the dryer flat to the head, get that heat there and get in different places. It allows your elbows to be closer to your body and your hand to be closer [to the hair].”

Maintaining the Supersonic r™ is easy, and Dyson has taken the guesswork out of when to do this. They have included an LED indicator light at the bottom of the dryer’s base that tells you when the filter needs to be cleaned. Think of it like a check engine light in a car!

Technology reinvented

Dyson, which is renowned for its patented innovation and high-performance technology, has equipped the Supersonic r™ with intelligent heat control that measures the temperature up to 20 times per second, a streamlined flow heater that maintains even heat without hot spots for less damage, and the Dyson Hyperdymium™ motor to maintain optimal airflow.

“The flow heater technology allows it to become hot or cool instantaneously, allowing us to shift the temperature in milliseconds,” says Collins. “It’s one of the things that’s really game changing.”

In addition, the Supersonic r™ features intelligent RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) sensors in the dryer’s attachments—Powerful Air Attachment, Pro Concentrator, Flyaway Attachment, Diffuser, and Wide Tooth Comb—that each communicate with the dryer to automatically adjust the heater and motor with pre-set temperature and power settings.

DID YOU KNOW? With Heat Shield technology, the surfaces of the attachments stay cool. Even during close-up styling.

Drying revolutionized

While Collins admits that using the Supersonic r™ took some adjustment, it has significantly improved his blowdrying routine. “When blow-drying a section, a lot of hairdressers like to use the nozzle to hold the section of the hair on top of the blow dryer as they’re grabbing a new section, and people have said they couldn’t do that with the old Supersonic™,” he says. “I never did that technique before, but now because of the curve [of the Supersonic r™] and the nice loop underneath, it actually holds the section perfectly. I started doing this and it’s saving time. My technique has really started to change, and I couldn’t ever imagine switching back to another blow-dryer.”

FUN FACT

Dyson took 10 years to perfect this hair dryer!

One of his favourite features of the Supersonic r™ is the cool shot, which provides an instant and direct shot of cool air to help set the hair. “On a traditional blow dryer, cool shots haven’t worked that effectively,” says Collins. “You’re taking five seconds to let the hair sit, so on an average blow dry that’s about 25 to 30 sections to do that, which adds up to about two minutes that you’re wasting. With the cool shot on the Supersonic r™, it’s immediate and cools the section in seconds, so you’re saving two to three minutes on an average blow-dry and up to five minutes for thick, coarse hair.”

Reducing the time spent on blow-drying is a win-win for both hairstylists and their guests. As more people aren’t looking to spend hours in the salon anymore, hairstylists can speed up their drying time to fit more guests into their chairs throughout the day.

“As hairdressers, we’re used to the idea that the smaller the blow-dryer, the more you’re sacrificing on power and workability,” says Collins. “Now, the Supersonic r™ is so powerful and small. It’s really cool to have it launch as a full-blown professional tool. It shows Dyson’s dedication and that they’ve been listening to pros.”

“It’s the same weight as a can of hairspray*.”

*a standard 400mL bottle of hairspray

The precision hair dryer. For professional styling and finish.

Smaller.1 Lighter.2 Fast drying. Engineered for stylists.

Colourful Curls

LEARN HOW TO TAKE YOUR CURLY-HAIRED LIGHTENING AND COLOURING SKILLS TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH THESE TIPS, TRICKS AND TECHNIQUES.

With summer around the corner, many clients are re-evaluating their hair goals, with some even looking to explore the many different trends of the season, ranging from sun-kissed highlights to coppers and reds.

This is no different for your curlyhaired clients, so knowing how to help them achieve their dream colour while maintaining their hair health and integrity should be top of mind.

While the end goals of your curlyhaired clients may be similar to those with straight hair, the process of lightening and colouring their hair often requires a different approach, with additional attention to detail and a deeper understanding of how chemical processes can affect the hair structure.

“It’s important to know and keep in mind the differences when working with curly hair because of hair health,” says Sarah D’Angelo, a senior textured hairstylist and educator at The House of Curls in Burlington, Ont. “You can set your clients back months of good maintenance with just one damaging colour service, and you could damage their hair and curl patterns, which can lead to frizz and a looser curl pattern where the colour sits.”

Determining the Differences

Although colouring any hair type or texture may require alternative techniques based on the client’s particular hair concerns, it’s even more critical for curly hair, so understanding the differences before the appointment can be a great place to start. “When lightening and colouring curly hair, one

PRO TIP

AVOID BACKCOMBING

A TIGHT CURL

PATTERN AS IT CAN HELP YOU PREVENT UNNECESSARY TANGLES. CURLY HAIR WILL NATURALLY PREVENT UNWANTED LINES DURING THE LIGHTENING AND COLOURING PROCESS.

of the first differences to keep in mind is the porosity of the hair,” says Nancy Falaise, a L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio artist and owner of Salon Académie Nancy Falaise in Montreal. “Curly hair is naturally drier than straight hair, and the tighter the curl pattern, the drier the hair. I like to assess the hair type before I can decide what developer I’m going to use.”

“I also like to keep in mind the buildup of products,” she adds. “We ask the

client to clarify their hair a few days before their appointment. We don’t want the client to come in with a bunch of oils on their hair because then the colour products have to seep through those oils to get onto the hair.”

D’Angelo agrees that the way a curlyhaired client comes to the appointment is important to ensure the correct placement. “We like to ask clients to come to their appointments with their hair styled the way they do it most

TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA, PHOTO: HAIR: COS SAKKAS, TONI&GUY, U.K., COLOUR: FRANCESCO FONTANA, MAKEUP: LAN NGUYENGREALIS, WARDROBE STYLING: BORNA PRIKASKI, PHOTOS: JACK EAMES

“YOU HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION TO THE CURL PATTERN OR ELSE THE COLOUR IS JUST GOING TO GET DIFFUSED AND YOU’RE NOT GOING TO SEE IT.”

SARAH D’ANGELO, SENIOR TEXTURED HAIRSTYLIST AND EDUCATOR, THE HOUSE OF CURLS, BURLINGTON, ONT.

often,” she says. “When curls are in their natural state, you know where to place the colour, so we ask them to come in with 100 per cent dry, curly and relatively tangle-free hair.”

Being Curl-Conscious

While keeping in mind the curl pattern is important, other hair characteristics, such as texture (fine, medium or coarse), density and porosity, are just as important. “Oftentimes, curly hair can be naturally dark and coarse, but because of the porosity of the hair, it can lighten quicker than you may expect, so keeping an eye on your foils or hair colour is important,” says D’Angelo. “Taking small sections can also help maximize saturation and highlight visibility for those clients with dense and coarse hair. Since the hair can be naturally darker, you and your clients can try embracing those warmer tones. If the goal is a lighter blonde, think of going with a caramel, copper or true-totone highlight to embrace those warm stages as you continue to lift.”

“Keeping porosity in mind can also help because hair might be drier at the ends than at the root, so formulate accordingly,” she adds. “For mediumdensity textured hair, working with a low to medium developer with larger highlight and lowlight sections is great. Less is more, and that negative space is great for dimension.”

Acing the Application

When it’s time to start the lightener or colour application, your technique will depend on the particular look your client is going for, but there are some things that can help the application process for curly textures across the board.

“When working with straight hair, you can get away with a partial highlight that just focuses on the front or top

portion more than you can with curly hair because the curls stack on top of each other,” says D’Angelo. “If you apply the same way for curly hair, you’ll have colour sitting on top and darkness underneath—something we call a ‘colour mullet.’ If you’re trying to achieve a partial highlight on curly hair, you’re still going to want to do some colour through the back and down to the nape, especially on clients with type 3 or 4 [curl patterns].”

Re-evaluating products and placements used during a colour

service for curly hair can also help the application process. “When you’re working with those tighter textures, unless the client wants to be platinum blonde, I really avoid using anything over a 20 volume developer,” says Falaise. “On kinky and coily hair, you can get the same results with a 10 volume that you would get with a 20 on straight hair.”

When working with curly-haired clients who prefer to wear their natural texture, Falaise also advises using larger sections with less foils since you can create the same effect with less effort.

PRO TIP

D’ANGELO RECOMMENDS

DETERMINING THE SIZE OF THE HIGHLIGHT OR LOWLIGHT YOU NEED BASED ON THE SIZE OF THE CURL. SINCE BABYLIGHTS CAN GET LOST IN A LARGE, DENSE CURL PATTERN, COLOURISTS CAN OFTEN BE BOLDER WITH THEIR APPLICATION ON CURLY HAIR.

“On straight hair, I would need, say, 30 foils, but for curly hair, I could use 20 to get that same end result,” she says. “Detangling is also a very important step in the application process. I detangle the hair when I apply a full head of colour and when foiling it, depending on the look I want to create. If I want to get a really blonde result, I stretch the hair out, but if they want a more natural, sun-kissed effect, I like to work with the curl pattern.”

D’Angelo suggests opting for handpainted, open-air processing techniques, such as balayage, which can help offer a gentle lift. “If a client has mediumbrown hair and wants an overall lighter look, I like to paint from the root down to the ends,” she says. “This can help show off the curl pattern while giving it great dimension.”

Both experts agree that offering a glossy finish is ideal since many curlyhaired clients are looking for shine. Opting for a toner or glaze on a client with overprocessed or heat-damaged hair or offering a reverse balayage can be a great way to blend grown-out hair while offering a gentler approach.

Treating

Texture

As more curly-haired clients are looking to embrace their natural texture, the time is now to be able to comfortably— and confidently—serve all hair types. We spoke with industry experts for their top tips on how to treat and style curly hair and gathered their insights on how all of this knowledge can help take your business to the next level.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

Long gone are the days when stylists would turn away guests with hair types and textures they don’t know how to service. In today’s day and age, it’s a known fact that most people have some variation of texture in their hair. It should come as no surprise that many people are becoming increasingly interested in not only embracing that texture but also finding stylists who can help care

for their hair while addressing common concerns and learning the best ways to service their individual hair needs.

“It’s estimated that 60 per cent of the global population has curly hair,” says Lauren Wilde, a Wella design team artist, curl specialist and owner of Rose and Onyx Hair Company in St. Albert, Alta. “From a business perspective, that’s an

enormous part of the industry that many salons aren’t currently reaching.” Being able to work with clients with any hair type or texture is vital in creating a diverse, inclusive and welcoming salon environment. However, it can provide the added benefits of helping to build business by increasing and attracting new clientele and building long-lasting relationships with clients.

PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK

Setting the Standard

Generally speaking, Canada is quite diverse when it comes to its population, which consists of a melting pot of different cultures, ethnicities and religions. However, the country continues to fall behind in offering inclusive education for all hair types. While the U.S. has made some progress since the pandemic, Canada has been slow to catch up.

“I’m from Montreal, which is also very multicultural, so I encounter people from all different backgrounds,” says Sandrine Takam, a Montreal-based hairstylist and Matrix artist and educator. “Personally, I want to be able to offer my services to whoever may be interested in them.”

“As stylists, we have to keep in mind that curly hair has only recently been more talked about or ‘trending,’” she adds. “A lot of us grew up with the mentality that our natural hair wasn’t nice and we shouldn’t wear it, so now when a client with curly hair has the courage to come back into the salon, they don’t know who to trust.”

Takam says it’s up to stylists to not only educate themselves on how to properly care for and work with textured hair but also help make clients feel comfortable. A great place for stylists to start their curly- and textured-hair education journey is by realizing that clients need to know that you have the knowledge and that you aren’t afraid of their hair.

Meeting the Demand

Although the importance of offering curly- and textured-hair services may seem obvious to some, others may not realize that the investment in texturedhair education can not only help diversify your skill set and create an inclusive salon environment but also help from a business standpoint.

“Given that a large portion of the population has textured hair, catering to this demographic is essential,” says Cindy Duplantis, an Ontario-based celebrity stylist and Olaplex ambassador. “The trend of embracing natural hair texture isn’t going anywhere, and this shows the importance of providing services that accommodate everyone.”

With an overall lack of education on

“IT’S ALL ABOUT EMBRACING NATURAL HAIR TEXTURE, AND THIS MEANS BUILDING UP YOUR EDUCATION AND LEARNING MORE ABOUT THE THINGS THAT YOU MAY NOT BE COMFORTABLE WITH. YOU NEVER WANT TO BE IN A SITUATION WHERE YOU DON’T KNOW HOW TO WORK WITH SOMEBODY’S HAIR TEXTURE, SO IT’S VITAL TO FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THE APPROPRIATE SERVICES [FOR DIFFERENT HAIR TEXTURES].”

CINDY DUPLANTIS, CELEBRITY STYLIST AND OLAPLEX AMBASSADOR, MISSISSAUGA, ONT.

curly hair in the industry, Wilde created The Art of Waves & Curls, a class she teaches with Wella. “I remember when I first started educating and training myself in textured-hair services, I was told that it was going to be a floodgate that would never shut,” she says. “They were right. The demand is enormous and has grown to an exponential level.”

She adds that with her texturedhair education and services, she has developed long-term relationships

with her clients, with some travelling from outside of her city (and even the province) to get regular services done. “It can be hard for clients to find a stylist they like who knows how to work with their hair,” she says. “A lot of them have trauma from previous hair services, so once they find somebody who knows how to work with their hair, they really do stick with you and become some of the most loyal clients we have.”

“At some point, you may start losing clients if you’re not inclusive to all textures,” adds Ethan King, a Goldwell national artist and global curl educator based in Austin, Texas. “There’s a need for this in our industry. I have clients flying to me from other cities, states and countries. These hair services have more longevity [for the client] and have opened my availability to take more clients. If you take more clients, then this brings you more opportunity for growth and you can continue to expand your business.”

Let’s Talk Treatment

Starting the journey to becoming more comfortable and trained in styling curly and textured hair can seem daunting, but experts share that you’re not alone. Many hairstylists who start this journey

Benefits of Education

It goes without saying that education is paramount in being able to offer services for curly hair. If you are still skeptical about the benefits or don’t see how it can add value to your business, think again.

“It adds to your versatility as a stylist. I’ve had many clients come to me and say that they’ve had stylists know how to style their hair but not know how to care for it. When you really know how to care for curly hair, one person can send you 10 people. Being able to treat and teach clients how to work with their hair, you can give them that flexibility. It builds a strong bond, and that’s good for everyone.”

ADINA SHERMAN, TEXTURE EXPERT AND OWNER OF CURLY GIRLS STUDIO, TORONTO

“There are many benefits of curly- and textured-hair education. Working with curly-haired clientele is some of the most rewarding work I have ever done. It’s changed the way I look at my career and the amount of enjoyment I get from it. This can be life-changing for people with curly hair, so it’s a very rewarding experience that I’m happy to have had.”

LAUREN WILDE, CURL SPECIALIST AND OWNER OF ROSE AND ONYX HAIR COMPANY, ST. ALBERT, ALTA.

“There’s so much education available now, whether it’s through different brands that have products that cater to curly and textured hair or other stylists who are specialized in curly hair and offer those kinds of services. If you look, you will find it.”

SANDRINE TAKAM, HAIRSTYLIST AND EDUCATOR, MONTREAL

“It’s important to always continue your education in this industry and grow with new techniques and styles. If you don’t, you can become bored and uninspired. Stylists and salon owners need to be open-minded right now. Sometimes, it can be hard to reimagine your business or change your service menu because it can be scary to learn new things, but taking curly-hair education is a great way to implement these things.”

ETHAN KING, HAIRSTYLIST AND GLOBAL CURL EDUCATOR, AUSTIN, TEXAS

have a lot of the same questions, so understanding these common concerns—among both stylists and clients—can be a great place to start.

A common concern faced by clients with many different hair types and textures is frizz. Determining where the frizz is coming from is vital in understanding the problem before coming up with a solution.

“Does the client brush out their curls or coils? Are they running their fingers through it? Is their hair fine? These are all big questions to ask and things that can cause frizz,” says Duplantis. “As a stylist, you have to break down these things in order to figure out what your client’s hair needs. Usually, it’s one of two solutions: moisture or repair. The client’s hair can be naturally a lot drier and more porous or it can be damaged from chemicals, heat styling, the environment or even medications.”

“There is always a balance of products you need in the hair,” she adds. “One part is moisture and the other is hold, and it’s only after dissecting what they need that you can make the proper recommendation, based on if they need more hold because their hair is breaking apart and the curls aren’t staying together, or more moisture due to the

hydration, but also hold and control, so I opt for a gel in their routine,” says Wilde. “For my curly- and coily-haired clients, hydration is the main focus there, so we look for products that are creamier, buttery and replenishing.”

“We always need to think about sending our clients home with the proper products to use, but we also have to keep in mind that if the clients’ hair needs serious attention, there are some salon treatments and products that can only be done by professionals,” adds Duplantis. “If their hair is in desperate need of treatments for hydration, we need to make a schedule that fits their needs, time and budget. This is a great way of building business because treatments aren’t just a cash grab. When we are honest with our clients and help them understand why they need these treatments, they notice a difference, usually after the first one, and keep up with them.”

When working with curly hair, it’s

fact that their hair is porous and frizzy because it’s looking for moisture.”

While frizz and dryness can be inevitable with curly hair, it’s all about how you and the client treat the problem. “Most of the time, proper hydration, application and styling are key to achieving hydrated and shiny curls,” says King. “I always recommend that clients have a balance of hydration and protein treatments for at-home use.”

Hydration and moisture are always top of mind for curly hair, as a lack of both can cause a lot of the common concerns that clients may be facing. “With my wavy-haired clients, they not only need

important to fully understand your client’s hair since there are other attributes that can help you best serve your clients other than just their curl type or pattern.

Determining whether your client has low or high porosity can also help when it comes to treating a lack of hydration and moisture and can help determine the best products to use for their hair concerns.

“When we’re looking at the curl type itself, we have to subcategorize from there,” says Wilde. “What diameter of hair are we dealing with? Is the hair fine or coarse? Porosity is going to be the

most prioritized consideration because it affects the hair’s ability to absorb and hold moisture and will determine how much product it needs and the order in which we have to apply product.”

“Some clients are born with hair that has low porosity, while others can make it that way because of their habits and things that they’ve done to their hair,” adds Adina Sherman, owner of Curly Girls Studio in Toronto and a Level 3 Master DevaCurl certified stylist and texture expert. “Low porosity needs a lot more hydration and more intensive applications. You really have to force that moisture in and make sure that it’s evenly coated from roots to ends.”

Clarifying Curls

Typically, clients with curly hair will either use more product in their hair or opt for protective hairstyles, both of which can lead to buildup in their hair and be a common concern for both clients and stylists.

“Because curly-haired clients overlap and layer products, they can face buildup, which can be [damaging to] their hair health,” says Duplantis. “Clarifying shampoos and treatments can help allow the product to penetrate the hair, but they can also help with scalp health, which is a direct reflection of hair growth.”

Clarifying treatments can be a great

way to not only help your clients maintain their hair health but also help build business by offering these treatments as an add-on, or you can build the cost into the overall service price.

Repair with Care

Bonding and reparative treatments can help with a range of damaged hair, but they can be even more important for curly and coily hair because if the hair isn’t properly treated, there can be a big impact on the overall appearance of the hair.

“When we’re looking at curly hair, there’s a much higher potential of breakage and damage,” says Wilde. “When we stretch the hair, even just from brushing it, there’s a risk of damage, and that damage in curly hair can translate to a lot of things, including frizz or a stretched-out curl pattern,

PRO TIP

THE CONSULTATION PLAYS A HUGE ROLE IN YOUR SUCCESS WHEN WORKING WITH CURLY HAIR AND IS VITAL IN HELPING TO BUILD AND MAINTAIN TRUST WITH YOUR CLIENTS. EXPERTS RECOMMEND ASKING QUESTIONS ABOUT SCALP AND HAIR HEALTH, HABITS, FEARS, GOALS AND ANY BAD EXPERIENCES THEY MAY HAVE FACED IN THE PAST.

which is very common.”

“Bonding services can be enormously beneficial because they can help achieve better curl formation, improve the hair’s elasticity and give the hair more strength,” she adds. “When you look at a client with straight hair, it’s much easier for them to disguise that damage and breakage compared to a client with curly hair, so this is a major component of what we can offer.”

Another way to help curly-haired clients fight breakage is by encouraging them to come into the salon for regular trims to remove any split ends. In doing so, this can help keep your appointment books full.

It also goes without saying that many clients with curly hair are more susceptible to tangles, so being able to correctly detangle your client’s hair is vital to ensure that you’re providing them with a comfortable in-salon experience.

“A client with curlier hair will often have more tangled and dense hair, and sometimes you won’t be able to comb through it as easily,” says Duplantis. “Being able to understand their hair type and the amount of moisture you need to get through the hair is very important.”

“You always want to detangle the hair when you have slip and you never want to detangle the hair when it’s dry,” adds Takam. “This will cause breakage and be very difficult for you and the client. If I’m not detangling at the shampoo bowl, then I have a spray bottle and spray the hair with that or a leave-in, which makes it more manageable.”

“Prior to washing the hair, I would detangle,” she adds. “I like to wet the hair, apply conditioner and gently work from the tips and move my way up to the scalp. Sometimes, I start with my hands and then go in with a wide-tooth comb or curl-appropriate brush.”

Product and Retail

All experts can agree that a large part of working with curly hair is educating your clients on how to style and care for their hair at home. Walking your clients through what products you’re using (and why) can be a great way to build trust and help your clients achieve insalon results at home, all while helping to potentially increase your retail sales efforts.

“Sometimes, we get so lost in our craft, which is really important, but understanding what products we can recommend to our guests is the second

“MORE PEOPLE ARE WANTING TO GO THE NATURAL ROUTE RIGHT NOW AND ARE EMBRACING THEIR NATURAL HAIR. AS SALON OWNERS, YOU CAN’T IGNORE CURLY HAIR ANYMORE. INVESTING IN THAT EDUCATION FOR YOURSELF AND YOUR EMPLOYEES IS ONLY GOING TO BE BENEFICIAL BUSINESSWISE.”

SANDRINE TAKAM, HAIRSTYLIST AND MATRIX ARTIST AND EDUCATOR, MONTREAL, QUE.

part of that,” says Duplantis. “If our clients go home and can’t achieve what they’re looking for or what we did in the salon, they may lose trust in us. Being able to explain what products to use and how to use them to get the results they’re looking for will result in a client for life.”

“The knowledge on how to treat curly hair goes hand in hand with product knowledge and application,” adds Sherman. “Of course, product knowledge can help you sell products, which can add to the bottom line, but you’re also able to create better relationships with your clients.”

Wilde encourages stylists to carry a broad range of products that vary in price to be able to cater to a wide variety of clients and offer them products that not only work for their curl type

and texture but also fit their budget. “Oftentimes, curly-haired clients are at a disadvantage because it can be harder for them to find a stylist and products that work for them,” she says. “They also use a lot more product, so they’re buying 70 per cent more products that are often more expensive than products made for straight hair. With the way the economy is going these days, it’s vital to have multiple price points available.”

“One thing I always say to stylists and salon owners is that curly-haired clients are your best retail clients,” adds King. “They will buy anything that makes their curls look beautiful, so when they trust you and your opinion and you give them the results they’re looking for, they’re ikely to purchase every product you [suggest] to them.”

Pricing

Just like any other salon service, pricing can vary based on skill level, products used, time spent in your chair and more, so when it comes to deciding on how to price your curly- and textured-hair services accordingly, experts agree that it can vary based on personal preference.

“Some stylists would suggest offering a higher rate on curly-hair services, and many people do,” says Wilde. “Having specialized in curly hair for over 13 years now, I could see stylists offering their services on a time-based approach going forward, and I think that’s a better way to price your services. Curly-hair appointments are going to take longer, but so can clients with straight hair that’s really dense, so I’m going to charge for the time as opposed to charging an additional rate because of the texture of their hair.”

“Curly-hair services take longer and are much more labour intensive,” adds Sherman. “We charge 25 per cent more for curly hair, but we’ve gone to a perhour structure now because we find that different hair types and textures need different things. We can’t just have a flat rate for a haircut because one client may take an hour and another client may need three hours.”

Takam says it’s all about finding a fair balance that works for you and your business, and she prefers to have a variety of options available to her clients.

“What I try to do now is have combobased pricing rather than charging based on density and texture,” she says. “I base it on what the needs of that type or texture would be and what I think they need most, and I do this for all hair types. I also like to have some à la carte options, which I can adjust based on what the hair needs.”

Better Business

As salons continue to battle inflation and financial strains on their business, we checked in with owners and coaches for their expert tips and thoughts on industry trends that can help boost your bottom line.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

From keeping up with rising costs to navigating changes in consumer behaviour, many salons continue to be challenged by the costs of doing business.

While it might feel easier to stay in your comfort zone when it comes to managing your salon, being stagnant in today’s economy can lead to detrimental results.

“We’ve been seeing a lot of challenges with clients,” says Jennifer Foo, a business coach with Inspiring Champions and owner of X-treme Creations Hair Company in St. Albert, Alta. “There’s been a shift in how people

are getting their services and how often. People are stretching their appointments out with more lived-in colour, so there’s a longer time in between appointments. We go from having a small, focused client base to needing a much larger one. When you multiply that by the number of stylists and salons out there, it’s generated real concern as to how we get people back in the salon more often.”

“People have changed since the pandemic,” adds Geno Stampora, an award-winning industry expert, salon consultant and keynote speaker based in Virginia. “People don’t just want

PHOTOS: ADOBE STOCK

to spend time in the salon; they don’t want to spend time anywhere. They’re constantly looking at their watches, and choices have increased. It’s easier than it’s ever been for consumers to find a place to get their hair done.”

Embracing Change

While it can be difficult to look at your business (and yourself) with a critical eye, doing so can help you spot areas where you may be able to be more profitable.

“Until a beauty professional looks at their business as a business, they’re costing themselves money every day,” says Stampora. “If money is ever an issue, you have to look back at yourself and ask, ‘Am I costing myself money because I’m not selling product, upselling my menu or charging enough?’ Even if you’re an employee in a salon, you have to take responsibility for your business.”

“Everyone gets so caught up in not understanding change because they get so deep into their comfort zones,” he adds. “It’s not just the future of beauty; it’s the future of profitability and flexibility.”

There are a number of areas to look at to ensure that you’re maximizing your profitability, such as expenses, pricing, staffing and services, and it’s recommended to carefully look at each one to discover areas that could use some improvement.

Expenses

With the rising cost of goods, finding ways to stay on budget and limit expenses is key to financial success.

“The cost of doing business is more expensive than it has ever been before,” says Stampora. “People are smarter shoppers these days, but the biggest issue is waste. Running an efficient salon would mean to not waste water, products or colour, and this comes down to the salon’s culture. I believe you have to create a culture where everyone takes responsibility to become cost-conscious and reduce waste.”

Since some expenses, such as the cost of hair products and colour, are vital to your salon business, there are ways to ensure that you’re staying on budget.

“Streamlining inventory was a huge

PRO TIP

FOR SALON OWNERS WHO MAY BE CONCERNED ABOUT HOW ON-DEMAND PRICING MAY BE PERCEIVED BY THEIR CLIENTS, FOO SUGGESTS CONSIDERING A “HAPPY HOUR” MODEL INSTEAD, WHICH OFFERS SERVICES AT A LOWER PRICE POINT ON SLOWER DAYS AND TIMES DURING THE WEEK (INSTEAD OF AT A HIGHER SURCHARGE FOR PEAK DAYS AND TIMES).

cost reducer for us,” says Robert Cromeans, a salon owner based in San Diego, Calif., and global artistic and business director for John Paul Mitchell Systems. “We use a formula for our budget based on what we sold the month before so that we’re not buying using emotion; we’re using numbers to dictate.”

Cromeans also suggests using five to seven per cent of your product budget on the backbar and to consider redeeming your points from manufacturers’ rewards programs for product purchases to help keep costs down.

Since rent can be a huge burden for owners who are trying to keep their businesses afloat in this economy, it’s important to ensure that you have a good understanding of your numbers while maximizing your salon’s space.

“The rent-to-service revenue proportion can become quite large, making it difficult to see a profit,” says Cromeans. “It’s so important to know your numbers and understand the cost

of goods and everything that comes with running your own business. Focus on goals and targets, starting with one guest at a time—daily, weekly, monthly, quarterly and yearly—so you can continue to grow. Numbers don’t lie, and they influence behaviour.”

Pricing

As the cost of living increases, so should the prices of your services. While an annual price increase of three to five per cent is standard, Foo suggests also reviewing your pricing based on demand.

“I like to use a booking percentage,” she says. “If you’re booked 85 per cent of the time—or more—and your prebooking is at 80 per cent or more for six months or longer, those are key indicators that you can successfully raise your prices by 10 per cent and mitigate the risk of losing clientele.”

While some stylists work toward a goal of being unable to accept new clients, Foo says that accepting new guests is important for business. “If we’re not consistently raising our prices when our demand is high, we’re not really allowing the opportunity for any new guests who are willing to pay the higher price point to be added to our books.”

Speaking of higher demand, the idea of demand-based pricing—where the prices for services fluctuate based on specific times and days throughout the week— continues to have its pros and cons.

For Mario Verrilli, owner of Onaré Salon in Mississauga, Ont., and author of The Fall of the Hair Salon, on-demand pricing is a concept he’s seriously considering.

“I love the idea,” he says. “It encourages clients to book at slower times so that you’ll fill in the gaps in your schedule and your books will always be full.”

“This is business, so I don’t feel that there is anything wrong with this model,” adds Cromeans. “However, I’d say the most important part is being transparent with the guest and making sure they have a clear understanding of the pricing structure.”

3.

Staffing

Since the pandemic, staffing has been a challenge for many salons. Whether it’s retaining staff or hiring new members, it’s a widespread problem that has had an impact on salons of every size.

“If you’re looking to hire new staff, your salon has to be attractive to them,” says Stampora. “Salon owners and managers should take a break for an hour and walk in the salon like a new [stylist] and ask themselves if they would want to work here and why. What does their salon offer? Is there a career path?”

Since traditional salons are now competing with suites and the rise of independent hairstylists, flexibility continues to be a key factor for many stylists. While salon owners may feel bound to the demands of their staff, there are some creative ways to help find a balance that’s a win-win for both parties.

One example is the idea of shared workstations, which can help with hiring (and retaining) staff members who only want to work a specific number of hours each week.

“The idea of a 40-hour workweek is becoming a thing of the past,” says Stampora. “Some people will want to work that way or more if they love their work, but most businesses need to focus

Software Solutions

Learn how software can be a priceless expense for your business.

Since many salon owners have more of a beauty background, having access to the right tools to help with managing their business is key.

With the evolution of companies such as Phorest and Square, whose offerings now extend well beyond appointment management and payment processing, salons can now use software to help with everything from client outreach and social media marketing to reporting and employee management.

Shelby Turner, co-owner of The Attic Hair Studio in Vancouver, began using Square five years ago to help manage her business.

“We integrated our payment processing with appointments and just knew it was going to be the way things were going,” says Turner. “I would rather pay for one program to do it all. There’s a waitlist, timecards for employees to sign in and out, reports and website building.”

A few of Square’s latest features include email marketing, an integrated Slack feature and a loyalty program to help with client retention.

“We haven’t delved into it yet, but email marketing with Square is something we’ll be trying this year,” she says. “We can see our returning clients and ones who haven’t come in, so we can send emails to our clients, which is massive to be able to send direct emails to exactly who we want to send them to.”

Square’s features have also helped offset the need for a front desk or receptionist, which Turner says they decided to eliminate after the pandemic.

“We realized it wasn’t the career job for somebody,” she says. “It was really hard to keep someone in that position. We found that the stylists would dump off some of their responsibilities on the front desk. Now, stylists have to check their clients out and be comfortable explaining the costs to the client. We put the power back into the stylists’ hands.”

As a salon owner and coach with Inspiring Champions, Jennifer Foo agrees that software can be great for business. “It’s a really positive thing,” she says. “It’s going to give you all your reports and numbers. There are also a lot of marketing aspects, so you can send out emails for open appointments and make suggested sales.”

“There’s so much feeling that goes into this business, so I really like to push people to look at the facts,” she adds. “Numbers don’t lie—they’ll tell you the truth and continue to help you stay accountable.”

Industry expert, salon consultant and keynote speaker Geno Stampora was one of the presenters at Phorest’s 2024 Salon Owners Summit. “You can’t beat using good software,” he says. “It’s going to give you the numbers you need to look at, and that’s priceless.”

Robert Cromeans, a salon owner and global artistic and business director for John Paul Mitchell Systems, uses software to not only help keep track of past revenue and data but also plan for future business.

“A salon software system is imperative for both employee-based salons and freelancers,” he says. “We can see how much revenue is on the books for a day, week, month or year. It’s a great coaching tool to help see opportunities to increase service revenue.”

“THE BIG PROBLEM IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY IS THAT PEOPLE WHO GET ‘GOOD’ GET IN THE WAY OF BEING ‘GREAT.’ YOU CAN MAKE GOOD MONEY, BUT IF YOU CAN MAKE GREAT MONEY, YOU SHOULD TRY TO DO THAT.”

“IN ANY BUSINESS, YOU’RE GOING TO BE FACED WITH CHALLENGES YOU NEED TO OVERCOME. THOSE THINGS DON’T EVER GO AWAY, SO OVERCOMING IT ISN’T ABOUT COMPLETION; IT’S ABOUT BEING ABLE TO NAVIGATE THROUGH IT WHEN IT SHOWS UP OR LEAN ON PEOPLE WHO CAN SUPPORT YOU, LIKE MENTORS AND COACHES.”

JENNIFER FOO, BUSINESS COACH WITH INSPIRING CHAMPIONS AND OWNER OF X-TREME CREATIONS HAIR COMPANY, ST. ALBERT, ALTA.

on the fact that those days are over. Now, it’s a matter of how we fill in those gaps with part-time people.”

In addition to finding ways to accommodate a work-life balance, it’s important for salon owners to provide opportunities to remind staff of the benefits, such as mentorship and education, which aren’t as easily accessed outside of the salon.

“Just like you want to lock in your clients, you have to lock in your employees by really taking care of them,” says Stampora. “You can keep your employees for a long time if you create an environment for them to be as successful as they can be.”

“At the same time, you have to be fair,” he adds. “We just need to find a way to pay people well. You don’t want to give your employees a chance to shop around [for a new job].”

For stylists who may be interested in more autonomy, Verrilli suggests implementing an hourly chair-rental model, which essentially allows stylists to explore a more independent approach while still retaining them within your salon.

“I’m seeing this in major cities like Toronto, New York and London,” he says. “It’s different from traditional-chair rentals, where they sign a lease, and the mindset is that they can do what they want. With a by-the-hour model, they can’t do that. They are self-employed but work on a commission structure.”

“A lot of salon owners fear that they won’t make as much renting and that it’s going to change the culture,” he adds. “I’ve implemented it and I find that it gives stylists a chance to see what’s involved [in running their own

business]. Some might love it, while others might decide they want to go back to being an employee. It avoids all this shuffling around and flips it in a positive way. We’re working in collaboration rather than in competition and without disrupting the salon’s culture.”

In addition to helping to retain staff, looking for ways to offer more independent opportunities within the salon can help with retaining clients. As stylists leave salons, some owners fear that clients may follow their stylist.

Services

Looking for ways to increase profitability should also include reviewing your service menu to identify opportunities to add (or eliminate) services.

“We’ve been seeing some salons begin to offer boutique items, as well as express services to get people in quicker,” says Foo, who adds that luxury scalp treatments and memberships for services are also trending in the industry. “Controlling your expenses is the biggest thing. If you can operate within a budget and really understand your expenses— where to spend and where to pull back— that’s huge.”

While adding value to a client’s experience in the salon is top of mind for many owners, who are looking for ways to differentiate themselves from their competition, it’s important to ensure that these add-ons also benefit your business.

“The biggest thing to keep in mind is if it makes sense financially, depending on

client base, demand and if you have the time for it,” she says. “It’s about being conscious about being budget-focused and understanding your profit margin and ways to control expenses.”

As for retail, which many stylists continue to struggle with, Stampora says it’s about rethinking your approach.

“Selling is a direct exchange of passion,” he says. “If you believe in it and are passionate about it, it’s not as hard to sell it to your clients. People use being pushy as an excuse; I’m talking about being persuasive. You are the professional, and if you understand the products and add-ons you’re selling, it’s very easy to communicate that to a guest and help them understand that it’s worth it for them.”

“Part of our profession is being able to make recommendations and provide solutions, and that doesn’t start and stop in the chair,” adds Foo. “Make recommendations on what clients can use at home, and give them the tools and knowledge on what you’re using so they can replicate it at home. We know how the products work, so we’re doing a disservice to our guests by not making those recommendations. If they still choose to not purchase, it’s completely up to them, but it’s really important to educate our clients so they know that purchasing from us supports our small business and allows us to further our education. It’s not about selling; it’s about educating.”

CO LLE CTIO NS

May+June

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level.

This Dutch collection beautifully unites daring cuts and colour with ethereal texture and styling for a wide range of striking looks.

HAIR Arjan Bevers, Avanti Kappers, The Netherlands MAKEUP Mireille Bevers Brunt WARDROBE STYLING Annet Veerbeek PHOTOS Ivo de Kok

Bold shapes and masterful styling are showcased in this standout American collection.

CONTESSA 2024 FINALIST, INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST David Barron, Barron’s London Salon, Atlanta, Ga. MAKEUP Orlando Marin WARDROBE STYLING Piper Beasley PHOTOS John Rawson

Airy texture and ultra-feminine styling make this American collection a total show-stopper.

CONTESSA 2024 ENTRANT, INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Lisa Vann, Vann Studio, Seattle, Wash. MAKEUP Orlando Marin

WARDROBE STYLING & NAILS Lisa Vann PHOTOS John Rawson

This British black-andwhite collection showcases diversity with strong shapes and free-flowing texture.

HAIR Michelle Summers Davies, Michelle Davies Hair, U.K. MAKEUP Drew Suleman PHOTOS Narita Savoor

With a playful expression of shapes, colour and placement, this team’s collection celebrates the beauty of texture and individuality.

HAIR F.A.M.E. Team led by Errol Douglas and Sally Brooks, U.K.

MAKEUP Maddie Austin PHOTOS Jack Eames

Refined shapes and effortless texture comprise this Canadian salon team’s collection.

CONTESSA 2024 FINALIST, CANADIAN SALON TEAM Vanity House, London, Ont. MAKEUP Kristin Jantzi WARDROBE STYLING Brianna Gastaldo PHOTOS Paula Tizzard

Celebrating the beauty of natural texture, this British collection demonstrates masterful cutting and styling prowess.

CONTESSA 2024 ENTRANT, INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Anne Veck, Anne Veck Limited, U.K. MAKEUP Scarlet Cedano WARDROBE STYLING Chloe Mellen PHOTOS Dan Thomas

Contessa 2024 Winner, Canadian Salon Team, Salon Pure, Montreal, Que.

ENTRY DEADLINE

September, 4, 2024

GALA DATE

November 10, 2024

Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto

Melfinna Tjugito

After starting her career in the beauty industry as a makeup artist, Melfinna Tjugito became fascinated by the work of hairstylists. “I was working in film, doing mostly commercials and music videos, and it fuelled my passion and curiosity for hair,” she says. “So I decided to enroll in hair school during the pandemic.”

The Making of a Milestone

Combining her love and experience with working on film and photo shoots, Tjugito decided she was up for the challenge of creating her own collection for the Contessa Awards. “I’ve always loved doing editorials and photo shoots,” she says. “After completing hair school, I wanted to challenge myself in starting a hair-focused collection and competing

with other Canadian talent.”

“This was my first time entering the Contessa Awards, and I’m grateful for being a finalist,” she adds. “Participating in the Contessas has been a significant milestone for me.”

For her collection for Emerging Hairstylist, Tjugito says she was inspired by shapes and structures and focused on creating different silhouettes with her models’ natural hair texture. “The inspiration was mainly rooted in the beauty and diversity of nature, and I was really inspired by the patterns, textures, shapes and hues that are reminiscent of the natural environment,” she says. “For the first look, I wrapped the model’s bangs around a slender stick and smoothed them out. For the ponytail,

I used a larger rod to wrap both her natural hair and the extensions.”

“For my second look, I really wanted to incorporate the model’s beautiful natural texture,” she adds. “I prioritized creating a distinct silhouette that captured the vision and manipulated the hair into shape.”

For her final look, Tjugito aimed to create a sleek and seamless texture to incorporate the model’s natural hair with hair pieces that she made. “I applied generous amounts of styling gel and water, meticulously crafting a sleek and shiny finish that harmonized effortlessly with the model’s existing hair,” she says. “Acknowledging and embracing natural textured hair within my skill set has been a pursuit at fostering inclusivity and diversity in my collections.”

Trust the Process

Throughout the creation of her first Contessa collection, Tjugito enjoyed the process of pre-planning and organizing her collection. “I observed creative insights from past Contessa winners and finalists as my inspiration,” she says. “Creating this collection taught me the importance of meticulous planning and thorough preparation, emphasizing the importance of intricate details to guarantee good execution.”

“Collaborating with the team and models on set to bring this collection to life was the highlight of the entire process for me,” she adds. “The energy and creativity that flowed between all of us made every moment enjoyable and rewarding.”

“It allows me to celebrate the beauty and versatility of natural hair textures to help inspire the confidence of individuals with textured hair.”

Southern Sensation

From growing up in the south and playing with the hair of his Barbie dolls to moving to Los Angeles and becoming a celebrity stylist specializing in natural styles and wigs, Davontaé Washington opens up about how he got his start in the industry and shares his insight into what it’s like working with celebrities.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

Tell us about how you got your start in the beauty industry.

I’ve always loved doing hair. It has always been my peace, and an escape from reality as a kid. I always knew that I was different from other boys. I used to love to play with Barbie dolls, and I realized that my infatuation with them wasn’t associated with my sexuality or my feminine energy, but it was because I just loved doing hair. I remember wanting to go visit horses, not because I wanted to learn how to ride them, but because I wanted to play with their manes and braid their tails.

Being from the south, it wasn’t something that was nurtured from my parents, and they didn’t really approve of it, so I had to hide my passion until I started taking care of myself and got on my own feet after college. After getting my degree, I was in the military for seven years. I moved to Texas and went to hair school right after college. When I moved to Dallas, I ended up meeting a wardrobe stylist who works with Michelle Williams from Destiny's Child. I was always uploading my work online and I was doing a lot of work with wigs. He picked up on my work and he asked me to work with him and Michelle on a photo shoot. I was shocked! When I got a taste of that, I knew that was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life, and I knew hair was where I wanted to be. I started working at a salon after that for about a year, but I realized that it wasn’t for me. I decided to move to Los Angeles, and it’s been an upward spiral since then.

You specialize in natural hair, wigs and extensions. Why did you decide on these specializations and what do you enjoy most about them?

It naturally came to me and I gravitated towards it. I started working with wigs because it was a large part of the market when I was in Dallas. Women of colour wanted to have a versatile look while protecting their hair, and that’s predominately my clientele. I do work with all women of many different demographics as well and I find that women like to have different looks and they want to be chameleons who can change up their look and show that they can be whoever they want to be.

What tips can you share with other hairstylists who might be interested in working with natural hair but may feel intimidated or not confident in their skill sets?

Don’t be afraid to get in there. If you’re not experienced with it, don’t be afraid. It’s hair! Educate yourself. Being a Black man with a Black mother, I have that advantage and experience, so when I got to beauty school I already knew how to work with it. A lot of people are scared to work with textured hair but it’s hair; it’s beautiful and you can do so much with it. When you put your hands in it, you’ll be amazed at the things that it can do. There are a lot of educators out there. You can go online and take classes and there are a lot of different conventions and hair shows that have different classes on braids and natural hair. It’s really about finding the educators that

you like and want to learn from and putting yourself out there to do it.

What advice do you have for salon owners and hairstylists about the benefits of offering services for all hair types (especially curly-textured services)? How can these services help with attracting new clients and building business?

The benefit is that you’re a person who can work with all textures. You’re not putting yourself in a box. You can be good at many things, but can’t be great at it all, but don’t limit yourself. Of course, it will be more money in your pocket if you can service everyone but don’t just do it for the money. If you do it just for the money, you won’t be good at it. If you educate yourself, that will help you expand and grow your business. One thing I love is products that work with all different hair textures and not just one, and I think it works the same for hairstylists. If you can work with all, that separates you from everyone else. If you’re a person of variety, the sky’s the limit and everyone from all demographics and corners of the world will see you.

What advice do you have for those who are looking to offer services for curly-haired clients? Anything they should keep in mind to ensure they are offering an inclusive salon experience? Creating an environment where people feel accepted and loved, where everyone is seen and heard, are all very important things. The worst thing that could happen is when someone walks into a room and they can’t see themselves, or their opinion doesn’t matter and they’re just looked over. Creating a safe space for everyone to be seen, heard, and included is very important.

Tell us about some of your work with celebrities. What are some of your most memorable stories or experiences?

A very special moment for me is when I first started working with Victoria Monét. We started working together

PHOTOS: DAVONTAÉ WASHINGTON, INSTAGRAM

when we were both starting our artistry. To see where our careers have gone together is truly a blessing. We’re growing together in this industry. She won a Grammy this year and I won a Hollywood Beauty Award, and it has really been a great run for us. We recently did a music video together, and we were talking about it and just taking in where we have gone from where we started.

What do you enjoy most about celebrity hairstyling? Any tips for other hairstylists who might be interested in working with celebrities? What’s the secret to it?

Remember that as a hairstylist, working with these celebrities is a privilege. They’re allowing you to come into their space; it’s vulnerable. You’re seeing them at their true self, and most people don’t get that opportunity to see them without makeup or a wig on. You need to make them feel safe for allowing you to be there.

I think the secret is listening. Listen to what your client wants, because so

many people come into the room and they already have an idea of what they want to do, and you can sometimes butt heads with your clients or the makeup artists or someone because what you see and what you want is not cohesive for the whole look. So just listen and be open to collaborating with everyone to create the look. It’s so important. They’ll tell you exactly what they’re looking for and then you can put your own little twist on it.

I understand that social media was a big help in getting your name out there. What advice do you have for other hairstylists who are interested in maximizing their use of social media? Be very proactive. Don’t sit around and wait. You have to network and socialize. When I started on social media, I was very introverted and I was afraid to socialize with people. I like to observe my surroundings first before saying or doing anything, but I realized that

I had to take action, let people see my personality and I had to engage. I had to socialize, and when you do that and you’re organically yourself, people gravitate towards that. With social media, get online and show your creative juices and the things that you’re interested in because that will attract someone. It might not be for everyone, but it’s for someone and they’ll love it.

What’s next for you? Is there anything new that you’re working on or have coming up?

My goal this year is to have some brand partnerships and become a brand ambassador. I plan on doing more speaking panels to help educate and enlighten people on the beauty industry. I would love to talk to a younger demographic to inspire them and help them realize that if they want something, to go after it. The sky really is the limit and if I could do it, they can, too.

Calm

Cool and

Take a look inside this Quebec-based salon, which offers its guests a relaxing getaway.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

Having a mother who was a hairstylist, Quebecbased salon owner Joany Paquin was raised in the hair industry. “I grew up in this world, which, in my opinion, was overflowing with possibilities,” she says. “After working in a salon for three years, my partner, who was not a hairstylist but had exceptional business acumen, convinced me that I had more to offer.”

Dream Big

When creating her salon, Salon Le Host, Paquin knew she had to think big. “I wanted to offer services that matched my customers and do things differently by focusing on the customer

experience,” she says. “We had a smaller space before, but after being there for five years, we needed more space.”

“We found our dream location in Saint-Augustinde-Desmaures and the space was empty, so we imagined and planned everything,” she adds. “Construction took five months, but the entire process took over a year. We put our ideas down on paper, and the designer we worked with, Audrey Chabot, brought our ideas to life and found a contractor for us to work with.”

Sit Back and Relax

Paquin’s inspiration for the space was derived from

PHOTOS: JONATHAN ROY

wanting to create a refined and relaxing atmosphere that took her, her team and their clients on a journey. “We were strongly inspired by Greece and Italy, hence our concrete coated walls and soft cream colours,” she says. “We wanted the space to be as bright as possible, and the white and cream colours bring it back to that clean and relaxing atmosphere.”

“We have black furniture for the stylists because we work with products that could stain,” she adds. “We also wanted all of the décor to last a long time, and I think it adds character.”

One thing that Paquin considers to be a “big win”

for her and her team was the amount of space they have to work in. “The fact that the salon is so spacious allowed us to create distinct and well thought out areas,” she says. “Each hairstylist has their own workspace, and we have a coffee corner and waiting lounge so that our clients can relax, as well as a bright photo corner, a spacious reception showcasing our retail area and much more.”

“My favourite area is definitely our reception and waiting area,” she adds. “Since it’s the first thing clients see when they arrive, [I knew] it had to be grand. We wanted clients to say ‘wow’ as

soon as they arrived. We also have an essential-oil diffuser to ensure that the olfactory sense was already conquered.”

A Dream Come True

Though Paquin and her team are working toward growing and evolving the salon while sticking to their values and creating a good work-life balance, she is very proud of the progress they’ve made so far. “There was so much effort, time, love and sacrifice behind this project,” she says. “We all felt an indescribable sense of pride and accomplishment as we watched this space become a reality.”

DETAILS

Opened in 2023

SIZE

4,000 square feet

TEAM 12

BRANDS

L’Oréal Professionnel Pureology

Shu Uemura

WEBSITE

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Maninder Gill, group marketing manager, introduced Redken’s brand managers, who showcased some of the upcoming colour, care and styling launches for 2024.

A Recap of Redken’s 2024 National Sales Meeting

Salon had the privilege of attending Redken’s 2024 National Sales Meeting (NSM). The three-day event was held at Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth and gathered distributors and sales consultants, including SalonCentric, Summit Salon Services, Concept JP, Maritime Beauty and O’Regan Agencies.

When & Where:

February 10 to 12, Montreal

Redken ambassador and educator Max Gourgues showcased one of the brand’s colour launches for 2024 and shared his application tips and tricks.

Judi Lee, national sales director (pictured, below), and Marie-Claude Belzile, trade activation manager, shared success stories from 2023 and goals and incentives for 2024.

Redken’s general manager, Lucas Postigo-Rombola, took the stage to share his opening remarks, market trends and introduce the brand’s sales and marketing team.

The event concluded with a gala dinner and an awards ceremony for top-performing distributor sales consultants. The ceremony also included the Atlantic Hall of Fame, which honoured recipients such as Redken’s business development manager, Karen Doherty. Among the presenters was Terry Ritcey, Redken’s former director of education and events.

Redken’s education director, Katrina Smiley, unveiled one of the brand’s exciting new launches for the year and cast the spotlight on their team of artists and educators. “Redken is home for the hairdresser and, from the very beginning, we’ve believed in the power of the pro.”

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE): OLIVIER OUIMET, SALON STAFF

| With the NSM’s overall theme of the Winter and Summer Olympic Games, Archana Kalegaonkar, general manager for Matrix and Biolage, took the stage for the event’s “opening ceremonies,” where she shared market trends, brand strategies and priorities for 2024.

Inside Matrix’s 2024 National Sales Meeting

Salon was exclusively invited to attend Matrix and Biolage’s 2024 National Sales Meeting (NSM) in Montreal. Hosted at the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth, the two-day event gathered distributors and sales consultants from across Canada, including Beauté Star, Beauty Systems Group, CosmoProf, International Beauty Services & Supplies, Maritime Beauty, Salon Centre and Toronto Barber & Beauty Supply.

When & Where: February 8 and 9, Montreal

Trade activation manager Christina Sluyter took the stage to share the importance of distributors having a street, store and e-commerce approach and how trade marketing can help with product presentation, promotions and merchandising. Matrix and Biolage brand managers also took the stage to present upcoming launches in colour, care and styling.

To close out the presentations, Stéphan Arsenault, president of L’Oréal Group’s Professional Products Division, shared his closing remarks and insights on the company’s focus for 2024 and beyond.

| For the NSM’s “closing ceremonies,” the brand hosted a gala dinner and an awards ceremony for the top-performing distributor sales consultants.

1992

Arnie passes away and Sydell takes the reins of the company as Matrix’s president and CEO.

In Memoriam

Matrix co-founder Sydell Miller passed away peacefully on February 25, 2024. We honour the entrepreneur and philanthropist by taking a look back at her extraordinary life and achievements.

1996

Sydell retires as chairman of the board at Matrix.

2000

Matrix is acquired by L’Oréal.

2005

1937

Sydell is born in Cleveland, Ohio.

| Joshua Balint, national education and events director, and Karlana Blakely, group marketing manager, shared more of the brand’s initiatives, including its Mentor.Me program.

1958

She marries salon owner and hairstylist Arnold “Arnie” Miller. The couple creates Ardell, the world’s first ready-to-apply and invisible-banded eyelash brand.

Sydell and her children donate funds to establish the Cleveland Clinic’s Sydell and Arnold Miller Family Pavilion, which is home to the Sydell and Arnold Miller Family Heart, Vascular & Thoracic Institute.

1980

The couple co-founds Matrix Essentials Inc., a line of hair colour and care products that expanded into styling products with Vavoom and Biolage.

2017

Beauty Changes Lives honours Sydell and Arnie with its Legacy Award.

Matrix artists Martin Menard, Michael Dubuc and Sandrine Takam presented an avant-garde runway show and took to the crowd to participate in a hair jam.

Lessons in Texture

Looking to grow your skill set and improve your confidence in working with curly hair? We’ve rounded up some upcoming in-person and virtual classes to help.

Curls and Coils

JUNE 3 AND 4, 2024 | 9 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

Moroccanoil Academy, New York City

Discover how to enhance the natural beauty of curls and coils by learning cutting, colouring, styling and haircare services for a wide range of curl formations. Expand your clientele by growing your knowledge and understanding of how to market services to clients with diverse hair textures and curl patterns.

Creative Cutting and Coloring with Greg Gilmore

JULY 1 AND 2, 2024 | 9 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

Moroccanoil Academy, New York City

For this hands-on course, learn from Moroccanoil’s global color ambassador, Greg Gilmore, who will be sharing creative haircutting and colouring techniques for textured hair. From proper tool selection to colour placement secrets to product knowledge, this course is designed to help you increase your revenue through your artistry, whether you’re new to the industry or an experienced stylist.

Curly Cutting — Curl Expression with Pamela Facey

JUNE 10, 2024 | 1 P.M. TO 4 P.M.

Elevate Beauty Lofts, Toronto

Learn how to cut and style curly hair with salon owner and educator Pamela Facey, who will share her expertise for taming curls.

Curl Craft I & II

JUNE 23, 2024 | 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

JUNE 24 AND 25, 2024 | 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

Wella Studio, Toronto

Get to know the basics of curly hair in this introductory seminar, which covers hair structure, curl types and proper terminology. Participate in colouring, cutting and styling curly hair in the two-day, handson seminar that covers different types of haircutting techniques and how to achieve proper lifting and colouring techniques for curly hair.

Texture Deep Dive with Michelle O’Connor

JULY 15, 2024 | 12 P.M. TO 1:30 P.M. (EST)

Virtual Masterclass, Zoom

Matrix’s global artistic director, Michelle O’Connor, unveils the secrets for maintaining healthy curls throughout a colour or lightening process. Plus, she shares her favourite foil placement for dimensional looks on all curl patterns and tips for preserving curl patterns before, during and after colour services.

ABC Curls with Leysa Carrillo

AUGUST 25, 2024 | 10 A.M. TO 4 P.M.

The Redken Exchange, New York City

This advanced look-andlearn class, led Redken brand ambassador and curly educator Leysa Carrillo, is designed to teach simple techniques and tips for creating customized hair colour and finishing for wavy, curly and coily texture and short and long hair to help grow your business.

Empowering Texture featuring Ethan King

AUGUST 19 TO 20, 2024 | 10 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

Kao Salon Academy, Toronto

This two-day, hands-on workshop, led by Goldwell national artist and global curl educator Ethan King, teaches new, elevated ways to approach cutting and styling curly hair.

Sassoon Texture

SEPTEMBER 22 TO 23, 2024 | 10 A.M.

Sassoon Academy, Toronto

Designed to help you master textured hair, Sassoon Texture offers a hands-on approach that teaches modern ways of working with naturally wavy and curly hair by using ABC techniques and collection techniques to create modern balances and proportions.

PHOTO: ADOBE IMAGES

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