Salon Magazine, March 2007 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon MAGAZINE

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 365 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1902 Toronto, Ont., Canada M4W 3L4

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY AND STYLE

Courting Session

Case files of five Canadian offenders plus: The latest collections

and Ken Pavés – small-town boy

turned celebrity stylist

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l salon l MAGAZINE

Contents MARCH 07 W W W. S A LO N 52 . CA

ON THE COVER Hair: Tim Scott-Wright for Lisa Shepherd, Midlands hairdresser of the year ear 2006, British Hairdressing Awards Makeup: Kylie O’Toole

ON THE COVER 67 91

Wardrobe: Rachel Bakewell

COURTING SESSION

Photography: Andrew O’Toole

FEATURE Case files of five Canadian offenders

Technique: Razor cut, going tight in at the nape and leaving the perimeter around the front, long and eye-skimming. Blow-dryed using Kerastase Creme Nutri-sculpt, straightened through and ﬁnished. Schwarzkopf Professional colour colour.

STYLE STAR PROFILE Celebrity stylist Ken Pavés brings star power to the masses

FEATURES 54

RETROSPECT

THE NEW FRONTIER

ESSENTIALLY CANADIAN

THE FIGHT IS ON! BE A PART OF IT

WHEN MEMORY SERVES YOU

PURE, CLEAN, VIVID

Antoinette Beenders’s Retro Active Collection

Nanotechnology revolutionizes the beauty industry

Schwarzkopf Professional’s Colour of Imagination Collection

Redken fights to eradicate youth poverty

78 Primaries, the spring/summer 2007 collection from Joico

Matrix launches Shade Memory

Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton explore the raw elements of nature > CONTENTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 16

76 Matrix launches Shade Memory

s a l o n > march 07

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The ultimate in luxury colour care.

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mix

l salon MAGAZINE

REGULARS 20 22 24

PUBLISHER’S NOTE HAIRLINES Keeping your staff looking great p.24; The ABA lineup for the Winnipeg show p.26; Gwen Stefani’s new look; Tool of the month; Aveda’s clean water program p.27; Global Salon Business Awards winners speak p.28; Trend books p.30; British stylist Tim Scott-Wright’s latest collection p.32

COLOUR

MEN

38 46

HAIR TRENDS

WIN THIS

CONTESSA GALLERY

ESTHETICS

NAILS

TANNING

PULSE

INTERIORS

98 102 104 107 16

EDITOR’S LETTER

38 HAIR TRENDS

Resolving colour client challenges

Expanding your men’s menu with eyelash and eyebrow tinting

SCENE Salon International rocks London

Take away a Fudge prize pack

Jagoda Hall’s Contessa 18 collection

Boost revenue with hot new retail opportunity

Cina Nail Creations new art kit kit; Colour trends; Pedicures for diabetics

96 INTERIORS

Spray tans on-set; Newsbits

Redken-inspired looks look on the runway

Montreal’s coiffure Zhang

HOT PRODUCTS EVENTS SCOOP PRESS PASS

s a l o n > march 07

98 NAILS

46 SCENE

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powerful repair

hair. for

K-PAK DEEP-PENETRATING RECONSTRUCTOR FOR DAMAGED HAIR. Restore Strength, Vitality, Elasticity, Shine.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

SPRING SESSION

��

n our editorial feature this month we celebrate five individuals who do session work in five different disciplines. Magazine shoots, television shows, fashion runway shows, advertising campaigns and major theatre productions all present different

challenges and rewards for hairstylists. An unassuming but very talented Robert Cory from Windsor, Ontario, talks about doing hair for a magazine cover shoot. Robert won Redken’s session hairstylist competition in 2006. Phillipe Fiorio is very honoured and proud to be doing Marilyn Denis’s hair for her national daily show, CityLine. He also gets to do some makeovers on the show as part of its Makeover Madness programs. I had the pleasure of spending some time backstage with Phillipe and Marilyn after the show recently. They both talked of the unique relationship that has developed between the on-air personality and the hairstylist, requiring open communication, trust, respect and professionalism. I was awed and inspired by the work Helen Gregor does for megamusical productions in Toronto’s theatre world. She’s a supervisor for hair, wigs and makeup. I spent an educational couple of hours in conversation with Gregor and her colleague Lucy Walsh in the wig room at the Royal Alexandra Theatre as they prepared and styled some wigs. As you read this, Gregor is fiendishly working on the Canadian premiere of We Will Rock You, The Musical by Queen and Ben Elton, opening this month at the Canon Theatre. Be sure to see a more in-depth conversation with Gregor on salon52.ca in the coming weeks. Carolyn Ferris from Kasha Salon in Hamilton, Ontario, has been doing hair twice a year as part of the Aveda creative team for New York Fashion Week for the past few years. She shares some insights into this fastpaced creative world, where she finds energy and inspiration to take back to her work in the salon each season. And last but certainly not least, Quebec’s Marie Dionne offers a window into the exciting world of shooting for an advertising campaign. Dionne was chosen by the manufacturer, Vernico, to create the four looks that will represent Koko Colour Solution in its new advertising initiative. Our French editor, Tina Christopoulos, spent time on the set of the shoot with Dionne. We hope you enjoy their stories.

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s a l o n > march 07

Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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PHOTO BABAK

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 16 issue 3

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | editor@beautynet.com ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | art@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | editorial@beautynet.com

PASSION & INSPIRATION

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/MANAGING EDITOR (FRENCH) Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com COPY EDITOR

Francie Wyland SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Pam Fulford

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Laura Dunphy Publisher

s a l o n > march 07

Mary Bonnici and Kerry Freek ART ASSISTANT / PRODUCTION DESIGNER

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | design@beautynet.com CONTRIBUTORS

Malumir R. Beavis, Lori Colborne, Kim Hughes, Chantel Simmons, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER

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HAIR BILL ROWLEY PHOTO BABAK

n a flight in January I watched the new Leonard Cohen docufilm. It had lots of interviews with musicians. One particular comment that struck me was from U2’s Bono. He spoke about the work we all do. Whether you’re a carpenter, a plumber or a doctor, it’s work, and we constantly have to hone our skills to be good at it. He was referring to Leonard Cohen’s hard work as a songwriter. Apparently, he would labour over every word, every sentence. It didn’t always come easy to him. He didn’t just wake up in the morning with a beautiful song in his head. Bono’s point was ‘You’re not going to get it every day.’ I found his message very poignant. As I sat down to write this letter, Bono’s message hit me again. Trust me, it doesn’t come naturally to me either. I always agonize over it, much to the chagrin of our team. Then I thought of the two words most commonly used at corporate events: inspiration and passion. I had recently attended the Schwarzkopf and Farouk national meetings. As I listened to the presentations and talked to the beauty pros, marketers and sales people, one thing remained constant—they all talked about inspiration and passion. Many companies from other industries go on about it. But I can’t help but feel that in our industry it’s really like the blood in our veins. If we don’t have those two things, we simply don’t have the fuel to go forward every day. It’s one of the things that separates great from good. Working in this business isn’t easy. Long days on our feet dealing with the public, challenging staffing issues and simply trying to keep the doors open can wear anyone down. However, I don’t think I’ve ever met a more passionate group than the people in the beauty industry. It’s truly amazing. One sales rep in particular, told me how excited he was about new products, because they inspire him to challenge his salons to set more retailing goals. I see it all the time with the Contessas—the drive, the inspiration and the passion. As well, working with a magazine gives me the wonderful opportunity to spend time with plenty of motivated people. But not all of us come by it naturally. Many really have to work at it. They are the tenacious ones. I’m not sure what comes first – tenaciousness or passion and inspiration. But I know that passion and inspiration will make you tenacious. It’s a dynamic combination. Take advantage of this time of year, check out the shows, get into education and hang out with exciting people. You’re bound to get inspired.

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton ON L0G 1A0 Canada

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HAIRLINES

Attractiveness Attracts Appearance and grooming are key factors

Hair: Jean Paul Ealet Makeup: Yasmin Heinz Photo: Felix Lammers Courtesy Hairgum

s a l o n > march 07

t is imperative your staff maintain the highest personal grooming standards at all times, as their appearance is the strongest example of their talent and therefore a powerful marketing tool. When prospective clients drop by your salon, they are checking out not only your location and prices, but also your staff, judging their skills by what they see. “Accountability partners,” pairing staff and having them talk to each other when one’s hair, makeup, dress or even personal hygiene is not up to standards, is an ideal way to empower your staff to monitor themselves. I recommend you set dress and grooming standards with your staff so there is clarity and a stronger buy-in. Explain that just one unprofessional-looking employee can negatively affect the entire salon’s image. Your staff is a team, and they impact each other’s success. Teach your staff how to kindly and gently recommend changes to their partners. Whenever possible, partner staff who like and trust each other. If the accountability partners are having ongoing conflicts or not addressing issues, switch partners around until you find a good fit. Even management should have accountability partners. Lead by example! Lori Colborne is president of LSL Marketing Consultants, keynote speaker, trainer and author of Innovative Marketing Made Easy!. Lori can be reached at lori@LSLmarketing.com

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HAIRLINES

“

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” “ ”

Flying Colours • On average, about two-thirds of your business comes from colour.*

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• The majority of you told us that in your salon the blonde colour family commands the most demand, with brunettes coming a close second.*

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• What keeps you loyal to your colour line? Your top three answers were durability, versatility and price.* *Source: Salon Magazine May/June 2006

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Take it Away survey

The Winnipeg Forecast The ABA mixes up the lineup for its upcoming Winnipeg show CHANGE IS GOOD. Beauty biz professionals know it. So for this reason the Allied Beauty Association has announced some pretty cool changes to its Winnipeg show, taking place April 15 to 16, 2007. Here’s what you can expect.

model presentation.

• High-profile names > Hair veteran Martin Parsons will be there. • More ways to shop > Manufacturers will hold a silent auction. • A reason to get dressed up > There will be a gala dinner on Sunday night.

• Expanded competitions > Floor will close at 1 p.m. Monday for

� � ��

3 competitions.

• New rules for nail competitions > Go to salon52.ca, click Features and ��

� ��

search for “ABA new rules” for a complete list of updated rules and regs.

For tickets visit www.abacanada.com.

s a l o n > march 07

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PHOTO COURTESY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

• A more diverse crowd > Consumer tickets will be available. • Better visuals > Look Good Feel Better will have a

Blonde Moment

Is Gwen’s blunt bob setting trends?

TOP LEFT PHOTO COURTESY CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN, STEFANI ALBUM COVER COURTESY UNIVERSAL MUSIC CANADA

ith the release of her sophomore album, The Sweet Escape, Gwen Stefani also came out with a new look: a shoulderlength platinum blonde bob with a strong curved fringe. Her inspiration? Michelle Pfeiffer in the gangster classic Scarface. Not one to promote her fashion sense on one stage, Stefani also sent an army of Pfeiffer look-alikes down the runway for her spring 2007 L.A.M.B. show. Developed and founded by Stefani, L.A.M.B. clothing runway presen presentations have become well-rounded affairs affairs, with the spring 07 show featuring deejay guests the MisShapes and highly detailed nails by Creative Nail Design. But what about the hair? Is it a worthy tribute or just a bad wig phase? Have your local girls come in asking for the platinum Gwen bob, or has no one you know even bothered to mention it? Let us know your thoughts. Email us at newsletter@salon52.ca.—MA

TOOL TIME NAME 02 Ion Hair Dryer FEATURES > 1,800 watts > Generates over 1 million negative ions > Delivers soft infrared rays > Reduces drying time For more visit www.npgroup.ca

Spri Spring Water This year Aveda lights the way to clean water with its limitededition candle to raise funds and awareness for Earth Month 2007. 100 per cent of the proceeds from the sale of these candles go to Earth Month partner Global Greengrants Fund. Aveda’s contribution will help support Global Greengrants’ numerous clean water projects projects.

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march 07 < s a l o n

HAIRLINES

Edited by Stephen Puddister

QuestionPeriod Global Salon Business Awards winners talk about their experience SALON ENTREPRENEUR OF THE YEAR, SINGLE UNIT

SALON ENTREPRENEUR OF THE YEAR, MULTIPLE UNITS

ENTREPRENEURIAL EXCELLENCE: GENERAL MANAGEMENT

Eliane’s Hair & Esthetics,Vancouver Owners: Eliane Michel, Shinae Lee, Nabil Kazemi, Patricia McLean

Eveline Charles Salons-Spas, Edmonton Owner: Eveline Charles

Chatters Canada Inc., Red Deer, AB Owners: Ken Fisher, Jason Volk, Robb Bloos, Marlene Neil and Corine Sim

Civello Salon Spa, Toronto Owners: Ray Civello and Raffaela Caruso

Megahair Salon, Surrey, BC Owners: Mark Banicevic and Milajne Soligo

The international recognition and respect.

Being judged by leaders in the industry and representing Canada.

Sharing ideas on a global level.

The excitement and anticipation of being nominated.

The connections we made with industry icons.

Our vision, commitment, consistency and passion.

Accountability, strong systems and structures.

Our encouragement of individualism, creativity and education.

A dynamic, creative and in-tune marketing team.

A passion for leadership and allowing our staff to be successful in their own right.

It was the opportunity to assess 24 years in business.

It was not that difficult. We have a whole corporate team.

It was a critical process and an excellent opportunity to analyze our company.

It was not for the fainthearted. An entire team worked on all aspects of the submission.

It was very thoughtprovoking and all information we should know about our business.

Have you promoted your win?

Yes, through presentations to entrepreneurs and a mentoring program for which I volunteer.

Absolutely. And we got lots of editorial about our win.

Of course. We landed newspaper and magazine articles and some television coverage.

Mostly within our trade. We find this helps us recruit and retain the best staff.

Yes. The press we got conveyed a real understanding of how we do business.

How has your win affected your business?

It’s been great. We’re growing and doing better than ever. Now our challenge is to continue to excel and continue to grow.

It’s been very positive. Employees want to work for a winning company, and customers want to come to a winning company.

The perception of our business has changed. It’s given us more credibility and increased brand awareness.

We pursue many marketing initiatives, so it’s challenging to isolate the results of one event.

In a very positive way. Leadership is the cornerstone of growth. And if your people believe in you, the possibilities are endless.

What do these awards mean for our industry?

Recognizing successful, creative people is so worthwhile. Sharing this success with our young talent is very important.

These awards help raise the bar. They instill pride in what we do and increase credibility, particularly in the eyes of other industries.

The competition is a catalyst to improve. It is so valuable because credit and notoriety are being given to business systems and business skills.

They celebrate industry excellence on an international level. Endorsement by UCLA, an academic body, adds tremendous clout and credibility.

A lot—and we need more of it. The purpose of our business is to serve and help people. Those who excel should be recognized.

AWARD

WINNERS

What was the coolest thing about the awards?

What made you stand out as winners?

How did you feel about the process of applying?

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ENTREPRENEURIAL ENTREPRENEURIAL EXCELLENCE: EXCELLENCE: CLIENT SALON LEADERSHIP PHILOSOPHY/ MARKETING

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Piidea Canada, Senscience Division, Pointe Claire, Quebec H9R 5N3 ÂŠ2006.

liquid luxury

Specially formulated by Shiseido Laboratories

HAIRLINES

Substance and Style

s bizarre as it may seem, in the world of hair some of the most luxurious marketing tools are things that many hairstylists dreaded while growing up: big books. However, time and time again, manufacturer trend books have us gasping at their breathtaking photography and sophisticated art direction. Here’s a nod to some of our favourites.—MA

T to bottom: Top Schwarzkopf Essential Schwar Looks seasonal trend books, L’Oréal Professionnel Geometric Colors, KMS California Genuine Hair Culture, Goldwell style books, TONI&GUY collection and retrospective publications

s a l o n > march 07

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HAIRLINES

English Roses British stylist Tim Scott-Wright explores soft, touchable hair

i im Scott-Wright’s latest set of photos, which won him the title of Midlands hairdresser of the year at the 2006 British Hairdressing Awards, depicts natural-looking, noticeably healthy hair. “Hair should look soft, feminine, movable and without too much product,” says Scott-Wright. “In the UK we understand the power of the customer, so there’s a need to produce commercial images that clients aspire to. Very ‘hairdressing’ hair can be too much for them. We don’t want to forget that women just want to look beautiful.”—MA

Hair: Tim Scott-Wright for Lisa Shepherd Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Wardrobe: Rachel Bakewell Photos: Andrew O’Toole 32

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COLOURS SO BRILLIANT YOU WILL SHINE EVERY TIME.

ÂŠ 2007 KPSS Canada Ltd.

Thanks to the superior demi-permanent Colorance Technology, GOLDWELL Colorance offers amazing shine and intensive, long lasting colour results, even on severely damaged hair structures.

Make ColoranceÂŽ a highlight of your colour service: Contact your Goldwell Sales Consultant or call 1-800-387-3873 to locate a distributor near you. www.goldwellusa.com

COLOUR

Resolving colour client challenges

lients are never created equal. Still, most of you colourists can probably divide and organize your clients into general categories. And so you speak about your blondes, your colour-shy guys, your silver-haired divas. In his 20 years in the business, Natrique international artistic director Tex Lillepool has done a similar thing. Here, he describes three types of clients who have challenged his skills as a colourist. Explaining not only how he’s dealt on a technical level, Lillepool also describes how Irish permanent colour line Natrique has played a key role in solving some tricky colour conundrums.

THE CLIENT: GREEN TYPES They’re not hardcore granola, but they eat organic, do yoga and/or Pilates and care about animal rights. They’re fashion-conscious but still have a conscience. THE CHALLENGE: “A large portion of green types want more than just the semipermanent henna-based dyes generally offered as alternatives to harsh-smelling, ammonia-based permanent colour. They want lift and permanent colour, but not a harsh chemical experience.” THE SOLUTION: “An ammonia-free, permanent colour line like Natrique may be the answer for these clients. It offers the fashion benefits they crave, but with a pleasant smell and less damage to the hair. They may respond well to Natrique’s use of natural ingredients like honey and seaweed.”

THE CLIENT: REDHEADS They look gorgeous in red and they know it. Whether they’re committed to red for

s a l o n > march 07

a short while or for years and years, they want the best red they can get. THE CHALLENGE: “Red’s a tough colour. Something about the red molecule makes it difficult to keep, so longevity is the main problem. Constant touchups can make damage a problem, too—and healthy hair is important when working with reds.” THE SOLUTION: “Adding more blue pigment and extra pure tone red pigment to your colour formula gives longevity to reds, especially to cool reds. But in order to do this, you need a colour line that allows you to manipulate your formulas, particularly your blue pigments. It takes more technical knowledge, but lines like Natrique, which put the onus on the colourist for accurate formulation, offer more options. To avoid extra damage when doing touchups, refresh ends using only a 10 volume developer. Use a 20 volume developer for the roots.”

THE CLIENT: RESISTANT GREYS They want permanent colour to cover up their greys. They’re dedicated clients and demand serious results. THE CHALLENGE: “Covering grey isn’t always easy. Some colour lines may not achieve the opaque coverage your client is looking for.” THE SOLUTION: “Choose colours with a warmer base. Warm tones create more depth, which leads to opaque coverage. Cooler, lighter shades will allow you to blend grey but not cover it completely. For really resistant greys, you may need to use specialized line like Natrique’s Double N Series. It’s designed for hard-to-colour greys and features warmer, high-depth colours.” —MA

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COLOUR BRANDI TKACH, CUT AND MAKEUP PAULINA TRUONG, PHOTO TINA CHANG, CONTESSA 17

Problem: Solution

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Colors inspired by the place where cosmopolitan chic meets adventurous style, where the look is sophisticated, savvy and spirited. This is beauty Down Under. If color chart has been removed, contact your Authorized OPI Distributor to receive yours.

MEN

Lashing Men Expand your menu for the male client by including eyelash and eyebrow tinting

how many men get this done. Helga Pelyvas, spa director and esthetician at Jeanet Spa & Salon in Toronto’s Yorkville district, has a bit of high-profile experience in the area. She tinted Hugh Jackman’s lashes several times for his role in the movie XMen. “With contact lenses he could not wear mascara, so the tinting gave the right illusion,” says Pelyvas. Movie stars aside, Pelyvas has several clients who get their lashes done regularly. “Tinting the eyelash is a delicate “Most men like just procedure requiring a different process plain black as opposed than the head. You need to explain it to blue-black, which well to your male clients to help them relax more with the idea, adds Pelyvas. is the darkest but “The colour is a water-based vegetal does have a blue dye specifically designed for lash and undertone….” eyebrow tinting.” Cheri Brochu, an educator and instructor for LCN Canada, says, “Any gentleman who comes in for waxing or a facial is your target client for this service. If you have a man with dark hair, enhance the lashes or eyebrows by creating more even colour. Often the ends of the lashes are lighter, or the eyebrows have a fairer or vellus hair that can be darkened or enhanced. Work from the outer edge of the brow into the widest part, giving more time for the outer, lighter edge to process and create an even distribution of colour.” Brochu explains preferences. “Most men like just plain black as opposed to blue-black, which is the darkest but does have a blue undertone. Guys in a very male-dominated career path will not want the blue-black. There is also brown, and you can combine brown and black to darken the brown. Then there is graphite, which is basically grey, and gives an ash tone. Graphite gives a more subtle look to match the hair colour of a more mature client, or clients with more maturing hair. This is particularly true for the eyebrows.” So there you have it. Whatever the preference, try it out on some of your clients. And, yes, I did try it…, twice so far. The blue-black is my choice. It makes my baby blues even bluer than blue. Thanks to Helga’s professional approach in explaining it all, I was more relaxed than ever, so I am headed back in a couple of weeks for my next lashing. And if they can convince the cynic in me, you can certainly make money from it. But take the advice of Pelyvas and Brochu and get trained first.—SP

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HAIR ALEXANDERA BROWN, MAKEUP LYNNE STASKO, PHOTO ALFONSO ARNOLD, CONTESSA 18

OK, I ALWAYS SAY, DON’T CRITICIZE SOMETHING UNTIL YOU’VE TRIED IT. Inside of a two-week period, two women asked me if I had ever thought of getting my eyelashes tinted. When I asked why, they said mine are so light, you can only see them when I look a certain way into the light. I will admit, at first I thought it was crazy. Then I started to think about it further and decided to make a few inquiries among people in the know. I wondered

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Collection: Candy Stripe Hair: Emma Stephen for Lisa Shepherd Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Kidderminster, England Wardrobe: Rachel Bakewell Photos: Andrew O’Toole

▼

SWEET CITY

HAIR TRENDS

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s a l o n > march 07

Collection: Collormetrics II Hair: Trevor Sorbie artistic team Makeup: Mario Comparetto Wardrobe: Xenia Bous Photos: Stephan Ziehan

â&#x2013;¼

COLOUR WHEEL

HAIR TRENDS

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in colour mode NEW Dikson Premium Color Dikson Premium Color, colour that performs everytime. Its special luminous crystalline effect and silky conditioning, together with a remarkable covering ability, make each Dikson Premium Color treatment absolutely innovative. Shades, tones and tints matching the natural colour of hair. Dikson Service Canada Inc 31 Progress Avenue, Scarborough, ON 416 298 2212 â&#x20AC;˘ 1-800-334-8240 www.diksonservice.com

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Hair: Bill Watson, TONI&GUY Makeup: Phyllis Cohen Wardrobe: Darren Knight Photos: Wolfgang Mustain

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For your nearest L’ANZA distributor, call Key Beauty Systems toll-free (800) 661-1424

IN ASHES

HAIR TRENDS

Collection: Goldwell Trend Zoom 2007, The Reclaim Collection Hair: The Trend Zoom 2007 Team: Shane Bennett, Sascha Haseloff, Shane Henning and Dieter Mersmann Photos: courtesy Goldwell

24.03.07

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sheer indulgence

" mais oui: pink doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get any more sheer (or clean-looking, or pretty) than this"

visit www.essie.com, or call 1.800.232.1155

Allure magazine, 2006 Best of Beauty issue

Ballet Slippers

Mademoiselle Waltz

SCENE

POPCULTURE

nce again, London rocked for three days in October with Salon International, when an incredible 48,000 beauty professionals from all over the globe hit the Excel Docklands—that’s 6,000 more than attended last year’s show. This is the biggest show in the UK, but it’s also hugely popular with industry hounds from around the globe. The reason? It’s a fantastic place to get informed, educated, inspired and motivated in one weekend. Salon International highlights the latest talent, trends, tools, technology, techniques and tips for hairstylists and beauty pros in general.

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PHOTOS COURTESY SALON INTERNATIONAL

Te x t b y S t e p h e n P u d d i s t e r

Some of the biggest and best names in education, including Avedaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Antoinette Beenders, Angelo Seminara, Tim Hartley, Vidal Sassoon, Mahogany and Toni & Guy offered up detailed insights into their inspirations and collections. Tigiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inspirational Youth allowed 13 individuals to showcase their talents on the biggest platform that British hairdressing has to offer. From a front-desk greeter to the top cutters and colourists up to managers and owners, this show has something to offer everyone in the industry. We saw a lot more Canadians at the show this year, and all agreed it was well worth the trip. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

march 07 < s a l o n

WIN THIS

T Take it away a

Tell us what you really think Fill out the form below and return it by March 31, 2007 for a chance to win a $300 colour prize pack from Fudge! Including the new Colour Lock shampoo and conditioner, the set comes with an assortment of colours from the Head Paint and Paintbox lines and a side serving of Fudge’s mostrequested styling products.

Mail or fax us your answers by March 31, 2007

Name: _______________________________________________ Salon: _______________________________________________ Address: _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________________

4. 5.

Phone number: ________________________________________ Email: ______________________________________________________

a. 1 to 5 years

b. 6 to 10 years

c. 11 to 20 years

d. more than 20 years

What are your top three favourite websites? _____________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________

What is it about these websites that you like the best? _____________________________________________________

a. collections c. profiles e. other

b. event coverage d. product info

Do you visit and contribute to online blogs?

Have you visited salon52’s Job Board? _____________________________________________________

How often do you visit salon52? _____________________________________________________

Have you entered any of salon52’s contests or giveaways? _____________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________

What kind of online stories do you like best?

_____________________________________________________

I have been a hairstylist for:

If you have visited our Job Board, was it to post or view a career opportunity? __________________________________

What topics would you like to see covered online in the future? _____________________________________________________

10. Is there anything that you think can be improved in salon52?

_____________________________________________________

Mail or fax your completed form to: Salon’s Take It Away Contest 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, ON M4W 3L4 Fax: 416.869.3008

s a l o n > march 07

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state of an art

HAIR - genetics made it what it is – Great Lengths perfects it with the technology only the most recognized name in hair extensions can deliver. Add length, volume, colour and style with the most advanced and gentle methods of application, available only through Great Lengths Certified Extension Artists. First quality, 100% human hair strands are available in 35 hand-blended shades plus 14 “fashion” shades. www.hscinternational.com

BEFORE GREAT LENGTHS

Upcoming Great Lengths Education Seminars

TORONTO • March 25-26, April 2-23, May 27-28, June 10-11, July 15-16 VANCOUVER • March 11-12

MONTREAL • June 24-25

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HALIFAX • July 29-30

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths Certified Salon Network today by calling HSC International at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com.

C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

The Red Collection Jagoda Hall explores the ultimate statement colour in her Contessa 18 collection Edited by Morella Aguirre

ed is an incredible colour. It’s

passionate, vibrant, curious, sexy and daring. It makes a statement. And I think that’s why a lot people are scared of it. They’re scared of being noticed, of being sexy. I realized this recently, when I bought a cute little red antique table. When I brought it home, it gave such a different vibe to my house. I was just amazed at how such a small object could change the feel of a whole space simply because of its colour. So I began to really notice the power of small red objects. Working with simple red apparel and a white backdrop, I achieved the impact that a splash of scarlet can have, but still kept emphasis on the hair. Maria Arnos Bikas, my amazing makeup artist, who, creatively speaking, is really an extension of myself, created soft, powdery makeup to complement the look.

Hair: Jagoda Hall, Entrenous, London, Ontario Makeup: Maria Arnos Bikas Photos: Paula Tizzard

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“There are tons of different shapes you can explore with one good cut.” ▼

“This cut references the flapper girl era. The washedout blue highlights and green-black base add an antique feel.”

march 07 < s a l o n

C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY The Wardrobe A simple, red strapless top and grey suspenders for colour and consistency

Iconic Style Hall looked to the geometric styles of the 1920s, like Louise Brooks’s black bob, for shapes and lines.

I love mixing warm and cool colours. For my redhead, I worked with warm coppers and cool mahoganies.” —JH

Inspiration Jagoda Hall’s Contessa

18 story board

BROOKS PHOTO COURTESY LOUISE BROOKS SOCIETY

Colour Confidential Hall usually colours with L’Or L’Oréal’s Luocolor. However, for her bright orange redhead she used L’Oréal Professionnel’s Composite Colours in Sunset Copper

Starting Point The little red table that changed Hall’s perception of the colour red

s a l o n > march 07

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Change your hair as often as you change your mind. Available in Canada exclusively through Artist Choice Salon Services For more info: 1-866-424-2278 • 905-566-3101 • info@artistchoice.ca • www.artistchoice.ca

Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

Retrospect Yeah, sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good. But can Antoinette Beenders bring back the bowl cut?

einventing the bowl cut is no easy feat. However, it seems

Collection: Retro Active Hair: Antoinette Beenders for Aveda Colour: David Adams Makeup: Rudy Miles Wardrobe: Jillian Davison Photos: Dan Jackson

like the stars were aligned just right for Antoinette Beenders and her team at Aveda during the production of Retro Active, a vintageinspired collection that not-so-subtly salutes this misunderstood style statement. A trend for several seasons, round fringes have been popping up on a multitude of high-profile manufacturer and independently produced photos. But few collections have been as pure in their interpretation of the bowl cut as Retro Active. Mixed in with longer, wispy bobs and a crisp and smooth flapper girl look, Beenders allots prime real estate to simple and precise mushroom haircuts. We think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good call. Her cuts look beautiful, edgy, powerful and in keeping with international trends.

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march 07 < s a l o n

The New Frontier

Nanotechnology revolutionizes the beauty industry By Pam Fulford

hat makes hair shinier and brighter, colour richer, more vibrant and longer-lasting? New developments in products used every day in the salon are translating into significant results for you and your clients. And it’s all due to nanotechnology. “A nanometre is a measure of size,” explains Jim Markham of PureOlogy. “It is a very small molecule that can penetrate more deeply into the skin and the hair.” The benefits are obvious. In terms of shampoos and conditioners, this means enhanced performance. “In reality,” says Markham, “there has been no real new technology for hair since the 1950s. But nanotechnology has allowed us to develop products that repair, moisturize and protect damaged hair at a whole new level.” PureOlogy’s products are all developed for coloured hair, adds Markham. “There has been a huge colour boom, but the emphasis has been on how to put the colour in, not on how to keep it in.” While the company wanted products that would get the best results, Markham admits that the word “nanotechnology” never came up during the early stages. “The concept of nanometres was just beginning to be commonly used. It was almost after the fact that we realized we had incorporated a technology that was cutting-edge.” The technology itself is not just used in topical hair and skin products. Farouk Systems has incorporated nanotechnology in two of its newest appliances, the CHI Nano Dual Air Flow Ceramic Hair Dryer and CHI Nano Ceramic Flat Iron. “When molecules are converted to such a level, material may take on new “It is a very small properties and functions or increase molecule that can the ability of that substance to reach penetrate more deeply and penetrate different areas,” says Shauky Gulamani, president of into the skin and hair.” Farouk. “The nano silver ions we use on exposed surfaces have proven their ability to sterilize over 650 types of bacteria.” This is significant in an industry where sanitation and sterilization are a mainstay and clients want to be reassured that the tools you are using are free of bacteria and fungus. The benefits of the technology seem to be endless. Farouk also used nanotechnology to develop its CHI Ceramic Nail Lacquer—it fights bacteria— and every one of PureOlogy’s 32 hair products incorporates it. “It’s everywhere,” says Gulamani, “from filters in air purifiers to toothbrushes, from dentistry to food processors.” Have there been any negative repercussions to the technology? Some critics suggest that it may adversely affect certain chemicals, causing them to behave harmfully. “Absolutely not,” says Gulamani. “In the last few years, a large number of new products have been introduced as environmentally safer because they are coated with nano silver particles.” Markham agrees. “We have identified absolutely zero problems.” S

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PHOTO COURTESY PUREOLOGY

â&#x20AC;&#x153;No longer just simple chairs or mirrors but works of contempory art Elements in a system where each single element has a soul, restoring to the salon its primary vocation, that is the meeting place between Creator and his or her Client. Philippe Starck

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Essentially Canadian

Schwarzkopf Professional releases the Colour of Imagination Collection Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

t takes guts to break away and do your

own thing. Thankfully, long gone are the days of self-conscious Canadians worrying about not measuring up against their European and American counterparts. In today’s music,

“The beauty of our look is that it can be

design and beauty industries, Canadian style

worn in different ways, from sharp and

makers know what they’ve got to offer. And,

angular to soft and dressy.”

more importantly, they know their ideas and

— Luigi Aquino and Jeremy Ottenbreit

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skills matter.

▼

The Colour of Expression, by Luigi Aquino and Jeremy Ottenbreit

march 07 < s a l o n

The release of the first-ever collection by Schwarzkopf Professional’s Canadian Essential Looks artistic team, the IGORA Royal Colour of Imagination Collection, is a perfect example of homegrown talent stepping up to the plate both on a national and international level. Led by Canadian Essential Looks ambassador Kathy Simon, the team represents an investment in local talent, which, although unique and clearly Canadian, is still an extension of a larger, international brand and community. “Our biggest challenge was keeping a feeling of connection with the work produced by the international Essential Looks team while creating something different and uniquely our own,” recalls Simon. “We tried to make sure the styles we created were a bit Collection: IGORA Royal Colour of C

more graphic in terms of cuts and colour placement. And we used

Imagination Collection

various lengths and textures, combining them with simple, effective

Hair: Schwarzkopf Professional Canadian

colour to achieve that.”

Essential Looks artistic team

Team member Rasa Jurenas further explains their vision. “These

(pictured above, clockwise from left) Rasa

looks are innovative and fashion-forward, but with a strong

Jurenas, Jeremy Ottenbreit, Eric Maheu,

commercial feel,” she says. “It’s the flow of everyday hair with a

Luigi Aquino, Karine Jacques, Jean-

twist of the avant garde.”

Sébastien Lacombe and Kathy Simon

Developed to complement the February 2007 re-launch of the IGORA

Colour Consultant: Susan Boccia, C

Royal colour line, the Colour of Imagination Collection is composed

Schwarzkopf Professional national trainer

of four key visuals. “IGORA Royal is made up of 125 shades that have

Makeup: Michelle Vritsios

been divided into eight distinct colour worlds,” explains Simon. “The

Photos: Sebastian Cimetta

international team created visuals for four of the eight: Rhapsody, Lust, Glamour and Harmony. We were challenged to interpret the four remaining worlds: Expression, Perfection, Serenity and Commitment.” A strong, united front, the Essential Looks artistic team is proud of its debut effort. Although happy to note the technical achievements behind these photos, members can’t over-stress the importance of working as a team. Luigi Aquino sums up the experience nicely by emphasizing, “This work is a true collaboration of our talents and our passion for hair.” Jean-Sébastien Lacombe agrees. He adds, “Just look at what we’ve accomplished together.”

s a l o n > march 07

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The Colour of Perfection, by Rasa Jurenas b War Wardrobe design, Yvonne Welsh “When thinking of Perfection, think of clean, bold lines, graphic shapes —Rasa Jurenas

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▼

and cool, distinctive colours.”

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The Colour of Serenity Serenity, by Jean-Sébastien Lacombe b “ “Sereni ty combines golden browns and natural blondes. C Circular sectioning is built with a severe inversion at the back, long pieces at the front and a clean perimeter.” — Jean-Sébastien Lacombe

The Colour of Commitment, b Karine Jacques and Eric Maheu by “This look was inspired by rich brown mochas and soft golds. We associate glamour, femininity and attitude with these colours.” — Karine Jacques and Eric Maheu

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s a l o n > march 07

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HAIR TRENDS

The fight is on! be a part of it

Redken joins forces with the ONE X ONE foundation to eradicate youth poverty

by Tina Christopoulos

s a l o n > march 07

PHOTOS COURTESY ONE X ONE FOUNDATION

T ’S ALWAYS BEEN REDKEN’S AIM TO UNITE STYLISTS, as much to encourage their artistic vision as to develop their business endeavours. And nothing illustrates that better than the Redken tribe philosophy. Now, Redken is bringing that mindset to the humanitarian arena in an unprecedented national campaign, in the form of a cut-athon to fight youth poverty. “We need to make a difference, give back, stand up, speak up and help obliterate youth poverty,” says Doriane Dalati, vice-president and general manager, Redken Canada. This June, the ONE X ONE foundation, in collaboration with its partners (Diesel, Redken, Rogers Communications, The Globe and Mail, CTV, CBS, Ford, Sony and Mercedes-Benz, to name a few), is organizing an assembly on Parliament Hill in Ottawa to raise awareness among our nation’s leaders about issues that affect youth. During that time, a national cut-athon will allow stylists across Canada to do their part. “Redken is a brand with a heart,” says Scott Reid, director of Marketing, Redken Canada. “We recognize that stylists are passionate, caring, giving people and we want to offer them this opportunity to come together and give back as a community.” “We all want to help,” says Reid. “Here is an opportunity for stylists to lend their talents and become a part of this big initiative to do something great. They are giving back doing what they do best.” ONE X ONE is a non-profit foundation committed to supporting, preserving and improving the lives of children. In 2005, ONE X ONE facilitated the distribution of more than $1.3 million to Canadian charities and global initiatives. The 2006 benefit gala raised over $2 million to financially assist earmarked charities. “Poverty exists right here in our backyards,” says Reid. “Youth living on the streets is as much a reality in Canada as it is in Africa. We want to create awareness of a problem that affects so many people.” “Everything we do is with one goal in mind, to help people live a better life,” says Dalati. “We fundamentally believe that the future of not just our industry but the world depends on our youth. As hairstylists, we have the ability and gift to make people feel good about themselves. We must take this a step further and not only take care of those who come to us but reach out to those who need us.” The salons that raise the most money will have the opportunity to present their cheques at the ONE X ONE annual gala during the Toronto International Film Festival in September. Last year’s star-studded gala was hosted by Oscar winner Matt Damon, who brought along A-list friends Brad Pitt, Penélope Cruz and Grammy Award winner John Legend, who performed with the internationally acclaimed African Children’s Choir. ONE X ONE musical ambassadors and Juno Award winners Raine Maida and Chantal Kreviazuk added to the celebrity glitz, and CTV’s Seamus O’Regan, co-host of Canada AM, acted as master of ceremonies. Learn more about the ONE X ONE foundation by logging on to www.onexonecampaign.com. And watch for more information in the April issue of Salon Magazine on how you can become a part of this amazing initiative to make a difference. S w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

For more information about this product and to order a free Cuccio Naturale catalogue contact Star Nail Canada 1.800.661.9997 780.465.2131

Edited by Stephen Puddister and Tina Christopoulos

Magazine editorial

▼

PHOTOS COURTESY STRUT MAGAZINE

THE TESTIMONY: Magazine work is about enhancing an image, and the focus is usually on the clothing or the model, rarely on the hair, so it shouldn’t stand out as much. In most cases, the hair needs to be very natural. As a stylist, you’re there to make the hair flow with the look the editor, art director and stylist want to create on the cover or inside pages. The biggest challenge is not making the hair look like hairdresser hair, to always have an open mind and leave your pride at the door. It’s not about the hair. It’s more knowing when to stop. The location of the shoot will also require you to be very adaptable. You may not have the luxury of electricity all the time, and your creative skills will be challenged. Your kit should be full of tricks and tools for you to use. This type of work is very different from salon work. Don’t get me wrong, I love cutting and colouring, but strictly styling in session work is a whole different game. I find myself getting excited for wedding season, something most stylists dread. I realize that styling is a passion of mine. I’ve learned many little tricks over time. When I was training with Noah Hatton, an amazing session stylist, he told me that my jeans were too tight. Baggy jeans allow you to put more tools in your pockets. He also told me that if you watch Fashion Television, you’ll see that the behind-the-scenes crew dress quite frumpy, with their hair unkempt. The reason for this is to show the photographer or designer that you only care about the job at hand, and that it’s all about the model. I wouldn’t recommend this type of work to other stylists who would make it more competitive for me. (Laughs) I’m just kidding! I’d recommend it to any stylist—it would strengthen our industry.

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march 07 < s a l o n

CASE FILE #1 Robert Cory of Cabello Hair, Windsor, Ontario

Case files of five Canadian offenders

THE CRIME: Cover shoot for Strut magazine

Courting Session

▼

THE TESTIMONY: After I started my career as an educator for Aveda and was offered the chance to do Fashion Week in New York, I realized how much I love doing editorial work. Seeing the models I have worked on backstage in a magazine made me realize how much I love this side of the business. For me, it’s about the big picture. It’s not just the hair, it’s about the synergy between all the elements: the hair, clothes, makeup and the set. Each of these details affects the final outcome and should tell a story. I have the freedom to take an idea and make it a reality, as long as it complements the other elements in play, like the clothes and the model. The challenge with this type of work is to realize that session work is not fantasy. It’s not about crazy hair. It’s about beautiful hair and what you’re trying to express on the runway. The reward is seeing it when it’s all done, and having it appear in a magazine. You always need to be ready mentally and physically for pandemonium. You don’t always have three hours, so you adapt quickly. You may only have 15 minutes or even less. A very large kit with lots of tools is the basic requirement. I am always looking for interesting things like pins or clips or things I can use in the hair to add a point of interest to the look. I’ve learned a lot, mainly about setting hair fast. It’s all about the product you use. You never know what the girl’s hair is going to be like, so you have to be prepared and know what’s going to work for her. Personally, what I love most about this work is that I get the satisfaction of seeing my idea come to life in photos—having pictures of things I have created to look back on. From a career perspective, I get to show people what I love to do. It’s not about fame, it’s about inspiring other people. Just like educating, I think sharing my work will hopefully give people inspiration in what they do. It provides stylists an amazing opportunity to do something that’s not behind the chair. It helps make you more efficient. But most of all, it’s exciting, fast-paced and a creative high.

s a l o n > march 07

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PHOTOS DAN LECCA

THE CRIME: Runway styling behind the scenes at New York Fashion Week

Carolyn Ferris of Kasha Salon, Hamilton, Ontario CASE FILE #2

F Fashion Show

Academy of the Arts Runway show spring/summer 2007

Television

(Top to bottom) Marilyn Denis, host of CityLine; Phillipe Fiorio styles and talks hair with a studio guest; Fiorio with Denis and stylist Lisa Rogers on CityLine’s Makeover Madness special.

s a l o n > march 07

THE TESTIMONY: This particular session is for one of North America’s top daily talk shows and it is significantly different than photo shoot work, as it involves a fast-paced environment with time constraints. Time isn’t at your command. The opportunity to be involved with a top-rated show both inspires me and confirms my love of the industry—not to mention the tremendous exposure! There’s a fair amount of creative freedom because as a professional hairstylist I have to offer what I know will achieve the desired look, taking into consideration the shape of the face, the lifestyle, the daily routine and, more importantly, the hair texture. However, I cannot take full ownership of the final look. I always respect who my client is and what he or she wants to achieve. Personally, I have met such a unique group of people from within the industry and abroad, and every so often, some celebrities. From a career standpoint, it has definitely given me a great deal of exposure and, as a result, provided a client base I feel very honoured to have. Most of my new clients have seen me on CityLine and like the idea of coming to me to give them that new and special look that is theirs and theirs alone. I have learned that once you make the commitment, you must be there whether it’s to start at 5 a.m. or 9 p.m., and you may have three minutes or 30 minutes to do the job. I have to be at my best and be able to think quickly on my feet while still creating that wow factor. I am working around makeup artists, a production crew, etc., and it can be a little edgy. But the rewards far outweigh the challenges. They include exposure and knowing that our organization is a small part of something really special and truly unique.

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TOP RIGHT PHOTO MICHAEL BANASIAK; ALL OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY CITYTV

Denis says the personality and attitude of the hairstylist is very important for television.“We know each other so well after nine-plus years. I give him a lot of creative freedom because he knows what works for me.”

▼

THE CRIME: Styling Marilyn Denis’s hair for CityLine on Citytv

Phillipe Fiorio of Fiorio Salon, Toronto, Ontario CASE FILE #3

Phillipe Fiorio styles Marilyn Denis’s hair before she goes live-to-air on CityLine.

THE CRIME: Advertising campaign for Koko Colour Solution

CASE FILE #4 Marie Dionne of Centre de Beauté, Quebec

THE TESTIMONY: I loved working on this photo shoot. It was an extraordinary experience, and I would jump at the opportunity to do it again. What artist doesn’t dream of having their work shown? Working on a photo shoot gives me such an adrenaline rush and stimulates my creativity like nothing else, and consequently allows me to push my creative limits further in the salon. It doesn’t feel like work at all. The most fascinating and exciting aspect is to finally see what you’ve imagined all come together and become reality. It’s so different from the type of work you do in the salon. It takes so much more research and imagination, creativity and polish. Its success depends on three key elements: having a quality product to work with that you believe in, surrounding yourself with an excellent team, and always seeking special projects to work on in order to develop this type of creativity and ease on set.

s a l o n > march 07

▼

“Marie is very dynamic, with a sharp creative edge. She really believed in and embraced our vision. Her confidence and artistry as a stylist were very important assets for Koko Colour Solution in this endeavour.” –Ilan Cohen, vice-president, Vernico Products Ltd.

THE CAMPAIGN: In association with Tequila Communication, a marketing firm based in Montreal, Vernico developed a marketing strategy supporting their “Join the hair colour revolution” slogan. The campaign was to choose revolutionary icons in different fields and recreate their look according to Koko Colour Solution and its artistic team. With photography powerhouse Leda & St. Jacques on board, Vernico then put together the team that best understood their concept and vision and were motivated to deliver their own unique and original artistic interpretations.

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HAIR MARIE DIONNE MAKEUP GENEVIEVE LENNEVILLE WARDROBE CLOÉ LEGAULT AD PHOTO LEDA & ST. JACQUES

Advertising campaign

19-1220 Ellesmere Rd. Scarborough, ON M1P 2X5, Tel.: 416-291-8057, 1-800-267-4247. Fax: 416-291-2723, e-mail:npgroup@npgroup.ca web:www.npgroup.ca

Classimo Furniture Collection

Visit us at the Montreal, Vancouver and Toronto ABA Shows

Gregor with colleague Lucy Walsh, the hair guru for Orpheus Descending, which just ended its run at the Royal Alexandra Theatre in Toronto.

Gregor’s next project is the upcoming hit We Will Rock You,, The Musical by Queen and Ben Elton, making its Canadian debut this month at the Canon Theatre in Toronto.

THE TESTIMONY: I work backstage doing hair, wigs and makeup for the mega-musical productions in Toronto. I have worked on The Lion King, Hairspray, The Producers, The Phantom of the Opera, Les Misérables and, most recently, The T Lord of the Rings,, as well as Broadway productions. I work backstage for all shows—eight a week—and I do one or two work calls a week, styling the production wigs. I consider it a craft and an art form, requiring a lot of technical skills. Diplomacy iplomacy and a thick skin are also very important to succeed in this environment. It can get hairy at times. In a musical, a designer, who might also design the costumes as well as the sets, creates the hair and wig styles. As the wig supervisor, my job is to recreate his designs show after show. This is not as restrictive as it seems. Hair grows, hair colour fades and wigs lose hair, all of which affects the look of the designs. The challenge is to be able to keep in mind the initial design while adapting to the changing needs of an ongoing production. The major challenge is to do your work so no one actually sees it. If the audience sees the wigs, this can be a distraction from the flow of the story. Wigs should add to the overall production without standing out as wigs. The work backstage consists of putting wigs on performers during the show, styling the performers’’ own hair and doing all wig and facial hair changes. It’s challenging, exciting and creative. Because it changes from show to show, you use different skills in a variety of ways. Because it’s live, a show is never exactly the same. I work in union houses, and the money is good. But it’s not a steady job. Shows close, sometimes suddenly. You have to remember there’ll be hard times and save for those periods. I’ve had a lot of fun for 20 years in a business that allows me to use my mind and my hands, working creatively. I learn new things every production about time periods, styles, history, culture and art. It’s allowed me to travel across Canada, the U.S. and to England. No regrets—it’s a fabulous career, and there’s always room for new talent! S 31.03.07

s a l o n > march 07

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WWRY - PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRINKHOFF/MÖGENBURG, HAMBURG

Helen Gregor, Freelance, Toronto, Ontario CASE FILE #5

THE CRIME: Hair, wig and makeup supervisor for theatre productions

Theatre production T

AT M O S P H È R E

par Colette Wright

PHOTOS ALEX LEGAULT

TOUT CE QU’IL Y A DE PLUS ZEN COIFFURE ZHANG

salon > mars 07

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Pure, Clean, Vivid Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton explore the raw elements of nature Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

Collection: Primaries, Joico spring/summer 2007 Hair: Damien Carney Photos: Hama Sanders w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

â&#x2013;ź

Colour: Sue Pemberton

march 07 < s a l o n

orget celebrity. Forget fashion. Take a breath of fresh air.

This is how Joico international artistic director Damien

Carney and Vero K-PAK colour artistic director Sue Pemberton conceived Primaries, Joico’s spring/summer 2007 collection. “In nature we discover an endless number of elements—from every imaginable shape and texture to the most unexpected colour combinations,” explains Pemberton, who looked to everything from volcanic ash to rhubarb custard for inspiration. For the cut and shape, Carney explored angles, lines, the exterior and interior of basic and intricate geometric formations. He combined pieces of the natural world with his own imagination and took geometric cutting to new level of complexity.

17.03.07

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ESTHETICS

The Sweetest Thing Boost revenue with this hot new retail opportunity THE LATEST IN SPECIALIZED LUXURY CARE IS INTIMATE GROOMING. That’s right, products for a woman’s special spot. At the forefront of this trend is SweetSpot Labs and its innovating approach to feminine care. Take note: the salon/spa client is the ideal customer. So here’s a three-step retailing plan. STEP ONE: TO SELL IT, YOU HAVE TO KNOW IT What it is: Plant-derived intimate grooming products. Line consists of washes, mists, wipes and fragrance. Visit www.sweetspotlabs.com for details. Why it’s special: Formulated for a woman’s 4.5 pH. Soaps and body washes have an alkaline pH of 10. Baby wipes have a pH of 6.5. Benefits: Prevents dryness and irritation; reduces post-waxing redness; promotes freshness and wellness; great for girls on the go

STEP THREE: TALK IT UP What to do: Talk about SweetSpot before, during and after services. Use the girlfriend-to-girlfriend approach: fun, savvy and genuine conversation. How to approach it: Share your knowledge by offering scenarios. For example: “It’s scorching, you’ve been in your pantyhose all day and have a hot date for dinner straight after work. Here’s the perfect way to freshen up.” Also, remind your client that it’s actually healthy to want to beautify her sweet spot. Benefits: Gets your clients buying from you. Empowers them to talk about intimate grooming with her friends, thereby increasing your sales and service opportunities.—MRB

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PHOTOS COURTESY SWEETSPOT LABS

STEP TWO: INCORPORATE INTO WAXING AND TANNING SERVICES What it is: A three-piece SweetSpot kit (one per client). Includes one wipette for pre-treatment freshening, one pair of disposable thong panties, one vial of mist to soothe post-treatment redness and irritation. How it works: Give your client a kit when she arrives. Suggest she use a wipette before the service and the balancing mist afterwards. Benefits: Clients are actively introduced to the products, gaining firsthand experience of the benefits of SweetSpot.

Intercosmetics L E A D E R S I N E S T H E T I C & S PA S U P P L I E S

NAILS

art nouveau Cina Nail Creations’ new dried flower art kit is a nonbleeding, easy-to-apply touch of reality ideal for topcoats, gels or acrylics. Dazzle up these paper-thin blooms with Cina’s miniature hearts, diamonds and stones. Application is short and sweet. Go to salon52.ca, click Features and search for “Cina” for a complete step-by-step. — MA

colour trend: high-tech, prismatic lacquers China Glaze’s Kaleidoscope collection

s a l o n > march 07

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NAILS

The Perfect Pedi For Diabetics How to combine safety with luxur y

lients soak up the pampering of a pedicure, but for diabetics it may be more of a threat than a treat. Step number one for a pedicure, according to Katherine von Gavel, educator and president of KvG Group, is to have a client consultation sheet so you can identify diabetics. Then proceed with caution. The foot bath should always be lukewarm and should last no longer than five minutes. Check your hand to make sure it is tepid enough. “Diabetics are not usually sensitive to temperature, plus their skin swells very easily,” says von Gavel. She mentions certain taboos when it comes to pedicures for dia-

cure but not a full medical treatment. She recommends that estheticians learn more than the basics taught at school. “North American School of Podology has a four-day course that provides a great deal of extra information in this area.” Even if a client isn’t aware of being a diabetic, there are warning bells that can suggest they are symptomatic: parchment-paper skin where the veins are very visible, cold feet, a reddish-bluish tinge to the feet. If you have any concerns, it may be time to refer your client to his or her doctor. Toronto podiatrist Dr. Paul Leszner highlights different warning signs that suggest medical treatment. “If the nails are turning in or are very thick, if there

betics: caustic callus softeners or corn pads with acid in them. “Anything that attacks the skin can cause infection, which is the main concern” “Cuticles on toes should never be pushed back,” she continues. “They protect the nail—they can be buffed off—and what you want to avoid is any open wound on the skin.” Shaping and cutting must be done carefully; never cut the corner of the nail out, and avoid touching the nail file to the skin. A gentle massage is advised, and diabetics should definitely use a light, non-occlusive moisturizer on their feet every day. “Greasy creams prevent the skin from ‘breathing’ properly,” adds von Gavel, whose company is releasing a new footcare line called Footlogix. “The idea behind its development is ‘medi meets pedi’; it’s more than a pedi-

is fungus or calluses with a core, any kind of ulceration, these are all indications that your client may need more specialized treatment.” Leszner adds that if you’re suspicious about the condition of a client’s feet, it’s a good idea to ask questions. “It’s often a matter of listening, not seeing. Do they have cramps, or numbness of the toes? What kind of shoe are they wearing?” He is also very emphatic that equipment be thoroughly sterilized—whether clients are diabetic or not—as this can cause problems, especially with open skin. But the diabetic pedicure doesn’t necessarily mean it has to be clinical. Rebecca Kekes, who runs her own business in the GTA, Juicy Beauty Bar, likes to add a very personal touch to her pedicures. “Try and be creative. I handblend all my own beauty products. For a diabetic, I would use a mixture of very fine brown sugar, jojoba oil and a special scent to create a non-abrasive exfoliant. An enhancement to the foot bath is usually fruit-based, perhaps an orange and nutmeg mixture or lime and cloves. It has a special, luxurious feel and is very gentle. The client definitely feels pampered.”—PF

“The idea behind its development is ‘medi meets pedi’; it’s more than a pedicure but not a full medical treatment. ”

colour trend: muted pastels Creative Nail Design’s Optix collection

s a l o n > march 07

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NEWSBITS

Chantal Brossard gets her Vita Matrix tan before any of her photo shoots

Vita Tanz

othing makes us stand up and take notice of a new product better than a little exposure and celebrity endorsements. HealthTan Technologies powered by Vita Matrix, a formula for sunless tanning combined with anti-aging ingredients, has caught on in Quebec. It's the behind-the-scenes spraying provider at Star Académie,(a Canadian Idol meets Big Brother-type show where young hopefuls vie for a chance at a music contract); it’s been embraced by Chantal Brossard personally as well as on her show, Gala Révélation; and its now spraying the models for the new show Deal Or No Deal. It also has Marie-Chantal Toupin on its roster of clients. “The results are simply amazing—a tan that lasts days longer and a head-to-toe age-defying treatment, all in one solution,” says Litsa Karamitsos, Vita Matrix & HealthTan Technologies worldwide sunless consultant and spray tan artist. “It makes your skin feel silky-smooth, actually has a pleasant smell and dries very quickly. And it fades naturally, just like a tan at the end of summer.” Vita Matrix is available to use in a compressor system, an airless pump system, an airbrush gun, an HVLP system or an athome application.—TC

Home & travel kit Golden Glow

s a l o n > march 07

On December 19, Uvalux announced it is joining forces with Ontario-based tanning distributor Canadian Sun. Sales and distribution of all Canadian Sun products will be transferred to the ultra-modern Uvalux Woodstock facility. The new Uvalux/Canadian Sun will now offer products from Australian Gold, California Tan Caribbean Gold, Designer Skin, Fiji Tan, Supre and Swedish Beauty in Ontario.

William Van Haeren, founder of Uvalux International Inc., announced on December 4 the appointment of his son, Niklas Van Haeren, as president of Uvalux Tanning & Support. Niklas takes over this role from his father, who along with his wife, Antonia Van Haeren, founded Uvalux International in 1979. Niklas has long been associated with the tanning industry, working part time at Uvalux while still in school, filling numerous positions including sales, service, shipping and technical support. Nik joined Uvalux full -time after university in 2000 and has progressed, holding roles in sales, marketing and senior management, including his most recent assignment as director of education, involving extensive customer contact and training across Canada.

In a letter to distributors from Australian Gold CEO and president Leslie A. Hartlieb and vice-president of sales and marketing John Keiffner, Indianapolis-based lotion company Australian Gold announced December 18 the acquisition of Los Angelesbased California Tan. “The synergies for the industry, of combining the leading two lotion companies, will allow us to provide the best products, programs and service to both [distributors] and salons,” they said.

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PHOTOS COURTESY GALA RÉVÉLATION, CHANTAL BROSSARD INC.

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w w w. s a l o n 5 2 . c a JOBS > EVENTS > CONTESSA

sa lon52 TIP Are You Looking? The salon52 job board is ripe for the picking. From hourly gigs to freelance jobs, salons are postings their vacancies for stylists, estheticians and nail techs. Go on-line and take a peek. You may find your next strategic move.

PHOTO COURTESY JOICO,, HAIR DAMIEN CARNEY, COLOUR SUE PEMBERTON, PHOTO HAMA SANDERS

> GOLDWELL The Reclaim Collection

PROFILE

STYLE STAR Celebrity stylist Ken PavÃ©s brings star power to the masses

PHOTOS COURTESY HAIRDO

By Kim Hughes

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march 07 < s a l o n

PROFILE

ick up a newsstand copy of a glamour magazine—Cosmopolitan, for example, or Vogue or Elle or Marie Claire—and you’re bound to run headlong into a splashy picture of Ken Pavés. The Michigan-born, California-based celebrity hairstylist, whose customer base includes Jessica Simpson, Jennifer Lopez and Eva Longoria, to name just three, isn’t just a go-to guy on the editorial pages for session work and expert advice. He’s a staple of the advertising pages as well, where his and Simpson’s Hairdo line of clip-in hair extensions (available in Canada through Artist Choice—visit www.artistchoice.ca for info) promise average girls a shortcut to the fabulous looks flaunted by the stars. Yet despite his velvet-rope client list, Beverly Hills zip code, frequent Oprah appearances and Hollywood cred (he has styled on-set for J-Lo and Kathy Ireland), Pavés credits his success to his down-home touch, what he describes as a fundamental understanding of women and their desire to look lovely balanced against the demands of workaday life. Pavés might be a Tinseltown bigwig, but you wouldn’t know it hearing him blab (his word) effusively down the line about his career, his cherished extended family of 13 nieces and nephews and his work on behalf of outreach charity Operation Smile. Long Island or Los Angeles, Tulsa or Toronto, a stylist’s greatest asset isn’t his ability to manage delicate egos, Pavés argues, but his ability to manage expectations and to never forget he's in the service industry. “As stylists, we often impose all these unnecessary things on our clients as if to show how great we are,” he says. “Here’s the secret to being a great stylist and what I really pride myself on: cutting a client’s hair so it looks great wash and go, so that when they’re running around in day-to-day life they look and feel fantastic. “Hair shouldn’t take more than 20 minutes, and I believe in saving your flatirons and curling irons and styling products and bobby pins for events when you want to feel special.” Perhaps ironically, his inspiration on that front wasn’t the glammy Simpson or the dishy Longoria but his mom, Helen, who along with dad Gary operates Pavés’s suburban salon in Clinton Township, Michigan. (His flagship digs are in Beverly Hills). “I grew up in a really small town where haircuts were $8 to $15, so for me to be doing this is totally unexpected,” he explains with a laugh. “I never thought I’d be working with celebrities, but I’ve always been interested in hair and fashion. My introduction to hairstyling came from watching my mom get ready those few

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times a year when there was a special occasion—a holiday party or wedding. “My mom was so giving to her family in her day-to-day life, it was exhilarating to watch her do something just for herself that made her look so beautiful, to transform into a kind of super-mom. It was like a costume for the family or the guests at the party. In that respect, the experience was similar to a celebrity, because they too are often putting on costumes for the red carpet. Glamour is their work uniform.” As Pavés explains it, the wash-and-go philosophy was the impetus for the Hairdo line of add-on extensions, which allow women to quickly play with and alter their style without inflicting the damage that comes with overuse of blow dryers and other styling gadgets and with a minimal amount of prep time. “To me the prettiest hair is healthy hair, even if it’s one length and virgin colour,” he says. “If the hair is in really great shape, that’s gorgeous hair and anything can be done with it. You could have the trendiest, coolest cut and look, but if it’s damaged, it just looks like fuzz. “Plus, when you over-think things, you lose that artistic, organic element. Suddenly it becomes, ‘Well, if I cross the pins at a 45degree angle and hold the angle at blah blah blah’—basically thinking with your head and not your heart—you lose the spontaneity that is behind the most beautiful work.” OK, swell. But seriously, Ken—and be candid here, since we’re not a tabloid—aren’t celebrities just a wee bit different from the average client? Yes, healthy hair is good and Jessica Simpson should look as lovely filling up the gas tank of her SUV as she does attending the Golden Globes. But still. Aren’t people-management skills at least part of what makes you an awesome celebrity hairstylist? “Here’s the bottom line: every woman is an individual. And every woman is incredibly complex. And from day to day, individuals change, moods change and how a woman sees herself changes. “So my goal every day that I work with a woman—whether she’s Jessica Simpson or Jennifer Lopez or someone else—is to make that woman look the way she wants to feel. Whether she’s in a fabulous outfit or jeans and flip-flops, I want that client to feel fabulous. Because no one is better at being her than she is.” S

“ “the secret to being a great stylist and what I really pride myself on: cutting a client’s hair so it looks great wash and go”

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PULSE

head-to head to-toe to toe STYLING

Redken-inspired looks on the runway

rom its name down to its visuals and marketing material, Redken 5th Avenue NYC has always conveyed the importance of a total look, especially in the synergy between hair, makeup and wardrobe and their effect on street style. Redken’s presence is constantly felt during Olympus Fashion Week in NY, where they strive to bring that knowledge and infectious energy to their stage presentations and educational seminars. In a special one-day presentation last November 6, with the help of their Quebec distributors JP Concept, four of Redken’s top artists showcased their latest trends—80s, Rock&Roll, Gold Versace and Burlesque—in a vibrant and upbeat show chock-full of music performances, dance and an extra segment on

s a l o n > march 07

how to adapt the current trends to your makeup and wardrobe. Steve Racine, Pietro D’Aquila, Anne Chabot and Stéphane Legros wowed the crowd of about 700 stylists at the Sheraton in Laval, Quebec, with an interactive and engaging performance. Redken wardrobe stylists Pascal and Jérémie Concept and makeup artist Nathalee Dodon also took the stage to share important tips on how to achieve a cohesive total look. “We’re always inspired by what we see on the fashion runways and by designers, and we try to adapt it following the core principles of Redken,” said Legros in an exclusive interview after the show. “Fashion is also about attitude and about personalizing the trends. You have to know what works for your client and remember that hair is a fashion accessory.” Season after season, these pros interpret what they see in the magazines, on the runways and on the streets, and recreate shapes and textures they can then adapt to their clientele. “I love when a client takes a style and makes it her own,” says D’Aquila. “Her hair is a mirror of her personality. You have to read her and be able to capitalize on her character traits.” The stage artists agreed that the most important element of a show is to be able to motivate hairstylists. “The best feeling is knowing that you have inspired them to challenge themselves and not fall into a creative rut,” says Racine. “Never become blasé when it comes to your craft.” S

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PHOTOS COURTESY REDKEN

By Tina Christopoulos

PARTY 'TIL DARK!

! L NOW L A R C ET YOU

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INTERIORS

URBAN ZEN MONTREAL'S COIFFURE ZHANG

PHOTOS ALEX LEGAULT

by Colette Wright

s a l o n > march 07

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NAME OF SALON: Coiffure Zhang ADDRESS: 159 St-Antoine Ouest, Montréal, Québec H2Z 1H2 OWNERS: Long Zhang & Tan Yip OPENED: July 2006 SIZE: 1,200 square feet NUMBER OF STAFF: 6 BREAKDOWN: 8 cutting stations INTERIOR DESIGNER: Lanvain Design FURNITURE & EQUIPMENT: Maletti Group RETAIL HAIR: Kerastase, L’Oréal PHONE: 514.868.6646 HOURS OF OPERATION: Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

n the heart of downtown Montreal is a new salon that is stopping people in their tracks because its appearance and design are completely untraditional. Co-owners Long Zhang and Tan Yip, along with Isabelle Lessard from Lanvain Design, have taken the design of their salon in the Palais des Congrès de Montreal (Montreal’s convention centre) to a whole new level. Furthermore, customers are getting more bang for their buck, as Coiffure Zhang has gone one step beyond hair service by meeting the needs of today’s busy clients. Futuristic. Bright. Clean. These are some of the words used by Zhang and Yip to describe their salon. The hair stylists, who’ve been colleagues for 10 years and now business partners for one year, agree that Coiffure Zhang is in a very good location. “Because we attract tourists and business professionals from all over the world, we need to be innovative and unique,” says Zhang. “If you add an accent colour like bold red with overtones of white, silver and chrome, you will be noticed,” adds Yip. On that note, both allow tourists to walk in and videotape or take snapshots. Interior designer Lessard agrees that Coiffure Zhang is a one-ofa-kind design. “The furniture suits the avant-garde look, but it’s also exceptionally comfortable and easy to clean.” Wanting to avoid hanging posters, advertisements and to stay free of clutter, Lanvain Design installed mirrors and built-in shelves. Zhang says the shelves are built in such a way that products can be displayed nicely rather than thrown in messily. While 50 per cent of clients are regulars—doctors, lawyers and business professionals who work in the area—the remaining customers are walk-ins attending the conference centre on business. “If some prefer their privacy, we have a wall partition dividing our back wash sinks,” claims Zhang. Yip says clients also like to bring their laptops and lunch to the salon, because they can sit at a private table behind the large display of hair products. “You don’t have to take time off work,” says Yip. “With our table’s wireless hook-up, you can work, eat lunch and get your hair done all at the same time.” Zhang adds, “There is no conventional vibe in this 1,200 square foot space. It’s just total Zen.” Zhang says he and Yip were recently privileged to welcome sex therapist and author Dr. Ruth Westheimer as a client. “She said that the next time she was in Montreal she would visit us again, because our salon is so sexy,” laughs Zhang. S

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march 07 < s a l o n

HOT PRODUCTS

HOTPICKS

by Malumir R. Beavis

4 2

TINTILLATING Ever versatile, Dennis Bernard’s Color Balance Corrector can be used for shampooing as well as for tint, toning and lifting. The corrector eliminates brassy, red or gold tones from yellow, white and grey hair, delivering true ash shades and perfect balance each time. For more info visit www.dennisbernard.com

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PETALS AND BUBBLY The sweet aromas of champagne and roses overcome the senses in Keyano’s Champagne Luxury shampoo, conditioner, and spray serum. Amino acids and plant derivatives restore hair’s youth in this sulfate-free line. Anti-aging micro-emulsion technology penetrates the hair cuticle, delivering intense conditioning. For more info visit www.keyano.com

WHIP IT Ideal for sculpting cropped coifs, Graham Webb’s Brit Style Whipped Wax has all the benefits of wax but comes in a lightweight cream consistency. Use it on its own or combine with other styling products for added control and hold. Beeswax enhances the texture of all hair types with a non-greasy, pliable finish. For more info visit www.grahamwebb.com

CURVE CONTROL Redken introduces Fresh Curls, a line of curl-enhancing products designed to nourish and define curly hair. Elastic polymers provide bounce and definition, while coconut oil and natural lipids condition and repair cuticle damage for smooth, in-control curls. Includes shampoo and conditioner, scrunching spray, leave-in detangler, mousse and anti-frizz serum. For more info visit www.redken.ca

MEN AT WORK Boldly masculine, the GYM Grooming line for men delivers straightforward, quality products with professional results. Shampoos, conditioners, and stylers are accompanied by an invigorating scent to meet the grooming needs of all hair types while recharging the senses. For more info visit www.gymgrooming.com

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PHOTOS MICHAEL GRAYDON

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HOT PRODUCTS

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10 TOAST TO HEALTH Dikson presents Tonic Line shampoo and cream fluid for chemically treated hair. The shampoo, with vegetablederived antioxidants, works in harmony with the vitaminenriched cream fluid to restore moisture and body to coloured and permed hair. For more info visit www.muster-dikson.com

100

s a l o n > march 07

RAISE THE VOLUME New from d:fi is the d:struct line of volumizing shampoo, conditioner and hairspray. The shampoo, molding creme and conditioner contain cactus flower for increased resilience, and glycerin for silky fullness, creating maximized volume. The hair spray delivers high hold with minimal shine and is suitable for all hair types. For more info visit www.dfihair.com

GO WILD Goldwell’s new Modeler shaping spray from the Styling line’s Wild category is ideal for ultra-hold wet looks. The spray dries quickly to create slick, defined styles that last all day. With a four-out-of-five ranking on Goldwell’s hold-factor scale, Modeler is for those craving super-defined styles. For more info visit www.goldwell.com

HEADBOLT Fudge presents Colour Lock shampoo and conditioner, products formulated to lock in colour, reduce fade and protect hair from the damaging effects of pollution. Sunflower extracts and free radical scavengers defend against thermal, environmental and chemical stresses so hair is healthy and buoyant. For more info visit www.fudge.com

SYDNEY SLEEK OPI introduces the lively new Australia collection, part of its geography line of nail lacquers. Polished mod meets venturesome spirit in this collection, with 12 captivating matte, shimmery and sparkling shades sure to be snapped up for savvy spring style. For more info visit www.opi.com S

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A D V E R T O R I A L

$82.00 CAD

EVENTS

SHOWS

CHICAGO MIDWEST BEAUTY SHOW, March 3—5 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center; Rosemont, IL; Info: www. chicagomidwestbeautyshow.com

ALL ABOUT BEAUTY SHOW March 18—19, Presented by International Beauty Services Shaw Conference Centre Edmonton, AB; Info: 800.642.3818

COSMOPROF ITALY 2007 March 29—April 2 Fairgrounds of Bologna Bologna, Italy Info: www.cosmoprof.it

IBS NEW YORK, March 11—13 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center; New York, NY Info: www.ibsnewyork.com

INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS DALLAS, March 18—19 Arlington Convention Center Dallas, TX, Info: www.lneonline.com

ABA TORONTO April 1—2 Location TBA; Toronto, ON Info: www.abacanada.com

ABA MONTRÉAL March 11—12 Palais des Congès; Montreal, QC Info: www.abacanada.com

ABA VANCOUVER March 25—26, Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre; Vancouver, BC Info: www.abacanada.com

ABA WINNIPEG April 15—16 Location TBA; Winnipeg, MB Info: www.abacanada.com

HAIR CLASSES GOLDWELL PRESENTS: Elumen Un-Edited March 4—5, Toronto, ON, and March 12—13, Vancouver, BC Trilogy March 5—6, Vancouver, BC and March 18—19, Toronto, ON Info: 877.670.6767

KMS PRESENTS: Women’s Cutting Foundations March 11—12, Toronto, ON KMS Studio Series “Cut…Shoot… Brand,” March 23, Vancouver, BC; Info: 877.670.6767

Toronto, ON Behind the Scenes March 18, Toronto, ON Collection Cut, March 18, Toronto, ON Collection Cut and Colour March 18—19, Vancouver, BC Collection Colour March 19, Toronto, ON Discover Aveda Hair Care March 19, Toronto, ON Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

AVEDA PRESENTS: Upstyling Level 1 March 4, Calgary Calgary, AB Legendary Classics, March 4—5,

L’ORÉAL PRESENTS: All About Highlights March 5—6, Toronto, ON Keys to Colour March 5—7, Vancouver, BC Fashion Texture March 7, Toronto, ON Introduction to Colour, March 12, Toronto, ON Made to Measure Blonde March 12, Kelowna, BC Keys to Colour March 12—14, London, ON Product Knowledge March 13, Toronto, ON Keys to Colour March 18—20, Dartmouth, NS All About Highlights March 19—20, Burlington, ON Creative Cut and Colour March 19—20, Toronto, ON Keys to Colour March 19—21, Kelowna, BC Tress It Up, March 21, Toronto, ON Colour Change March 26—27, Burlington, ON Colour Change

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March 26—27, Toronto, ON Creative Cut and Colour, March 26— 27, Vancouver, BC Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX TORONTO ACADEMY PRESENTS: Salon XL March 4—6, Toronto, ON C.R.A.F.T. Colour March 8, Toronto, ON Stay Sharp March 11—12, Toronto, ON Prêt-à-Porter March 20—21, Toronto, ON C.R.A.F.T. Cutting March 22, Toronto, ON Him, March 25, Toronto, ON Behind the Red Carpet March 26, Toronto, ON Logics 101 March 27—28, Toronto, ON Info: 888.422.6879 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS PRESENTS:Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions In-salon classes also available Info: 866.731.4327

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MODERN BEAUTY SUPPLIES PRESENTS: ISO Spring up for curls March 5, Edmonton, AB, and March 26, Calgary, AB TIGI CAT Training March 5—6, Calgary, AB TIGI AIT 1/2 March 5—6, Edmonton, AB, and March 12—13, Calgary, AB TIGI Mini-Show Grand Prairie March 12, Edmonton, AB; Schwarzkopf Master Colour March 12—14, Edmonton, AB ISO Colour Techniques March 19, Edmonton, AB Schwarzkopf Master Colour March 19—21, Calgary, AB, and March 25—26, Edmonton, AB Info: 403.259.4442

NAIL CLASSES CAN-WEST AGENCIES PRESENTS: Nails 101 for Beginners and Pedicures, location and dates TBA; Saskatoon, SK Info: 888.335.5400

NORTH AMERICAN SCHOOL OF PODOLOGY PRESENTS: Level 1, Advanced Pedicure March 4—7, Toronto, ON Level 1, Advanced Pedicure March 18—21, Charlottetown, PEI Level 1, Advanced Pedicure April 1—4, Vancouver, BC Level 1, Advanced Pedicure April 1—4, Ottawa, ON Info: 416.742.4319 CREATIVE NAIL DESIGN PRESENTS: Brisa Master Class March 4, Halifax, NS Brisa Rebalance Class March 4, Halifax, NS Natural Nail Class March 18, Charlottetown, PEI Brisa Rebalance Class March 19, Charlottetown, PEI Info: 902.429.8510 ext.225 STAR NAIL PRESENTS: Ongoing Educational Programs Location TBA Info: 800.661.9997

ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA PRESENTS: Ageless Beauty Techniques March 4, Edmonton, AB Bridal Makeup, March 5, Edmonton, AB Skincare Methodology March 11—12, Vancouver, BC Makeup Immersion March 25—26, Winnipeg, MB Ageless Beauty Techniques April 1, Toronto, ON Bridal Makeup, April 2, Toronto, ON Info: 800.689.1066 MODERN BEAUTY SUPPLIES PRESENTS: TIGI Hands On, Look and Learn and Makeup, March 4, Edmonton, AB Info: 403.259.4442

Call 416.869.3131 ext.105 or email editorial@beautynet.com for event listing. Due to space limitations we cannot list all events. S

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SCOOP

Colour Masters

(L to R ) Stephanie Mahseredjian, Evgeny Loukianenkov and Ae-Jee Lee

The 2007 Lancôme Colour Designs took place November 29, 2006 at Toronto’s Liberty Grand. Evgeny Loukianenkov took home the Colour Designs Award for Makeup, while Ryerson students Stephanie Mahseredjian and Ae-Jee Lee received the awards for Fashion in Colour and Texture and Innovation respectively. For more information visit www. lancomecolourdesigns.ca.

WEST COAST UPDATE Saskatoon-based distributors ESP Salon Sales now carries LCN products in western Canada. For more info 306.975.0486 or 800.667.2566.

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PURE PARTNERSHIP Philip Wilson (left) joins Jim Markham (right) as PureOlogy’s international artistic director.

Can-Rad Beauty Limited’s Bob Schoeler has recently taken on the role of vice-president of sales and marketing.

SPRING CARNIVAL

BY ASSOCIATION Ian Marc Smith, educator and owner of Ian Marc’s Salon in Bedford, NS, was elected president of the Nova Scotia Cosmetology Association at the association’s annual general meeting on November 19, 2006.

Maritime Beauty Supply, distributors of Redken, Matrix, Aveda and more, is hosting its annual Carnival of Beauty April 14 to 16, 2007. Taking place at the World Trade and Convention Centre in Halifax, Nova Scotia, the event will include competitions, private classes and an evening gala. For more info call 902.429.8510 ext. 237.

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MODEL PHOTO COURTESY REDKEN

MARKETING MAN

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EVERYTHING ELSE PALES

BY COMPARISON SEVENTH DIMENSION BRONZERS

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Y TO GET L IAL DEA

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REG A L IA RULES On October 15, The Grand Temple, Freemasons Hall, London, played host to the 24th Annual Alternative Hair Show, raising funds for the fight against leukemia. With the theme of Regalia, the crĂ¨me de la crĂ¨me of the hair world conjured up images of royalty, prestige and power. It was truly a night of grandeur for a worthy cause.

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P R E S S PA S S

Highlights

FASHION FOCUS 2

BSG’s main event, Fashion Focus took place November 5, 2006 at the MTCC. Headliners included hair gurus Vivienne Mackinder and Nicholas French. 1. Kim Tanner from Star Nail and Michelle Compton, BSG 2. BSG’s John Costanza and Marca College’s Joey Chimenti 3. Vivienne Mackinder destressing with model 4. Jennifer Langford and Jennifer Matther from Creative Nail Design 5. Noelle Halcrow and her American Crew gang. 6. Nicholas French and Salon’s Morella Aguirre. 7. John Donato, L’Oréal’s Kathleen Clinckemaillie and John Steinberg. 8. Derek Wierzbicki, Lynn Zuzek and Jim McBean.

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P R E S S PA S S

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HAIRAPALOOZA Schwarzkopf’s popular Hairapalooza event rolled into Toronto on October 22. First place in the unlicensed category went to Lesia Murenko, Caprice Hair Studio, while Alana Lynch of Silvana’s Hair Design took the second spot and Tony Mplias of Now Salon the third. In the licensed category, Alessandra Loconte, O’Hair Salon & Spa, placed first, Gian Paulo Colombo, Hairafter Salon & Spa, was second and Giancarlo Cornacchia, Yellow Orange Salon & Spa, placed third. 1. (L-R) Schwarzkopf's Kelly Cook, George Broder and Kristie Quinn and Vince Riverso from Venus Beauty 2. Venus Beauty’s Mara Federici with Hairapalooza founder Frank Bruno and Chantelle LaPrairie 3. Jeannia Stajan, Marianne Medeiros and Mandy Hauka

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PHOTOS COURTESY VENUS BEAUTY SUPPLIES

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P R E S S PA S S

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LA BIO PRESENTS

Presented by Defined Beauty Systems, the fall/ winter collection from La Biosthetique Paris was presented in Toronto in late November. 1. (L-R) Dominick Plante and Melissa Silvaggi, members of the Canadian La Biosthetique Paris education team 2. (L-R) François Campeau, VP of marketing and operations for La Biosthetique

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Paris Canada, Gerry Block, Claudio Favero, Michael Block and Tom Markoulis, all directors of Defined Beauty Systems 3. La Biosthetique artistic team member Frank Tripodi 4. La Biosthetique makeup artist Melodie Reynolds (right) and friend

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TEACHERS MEET 1 3

Vancouver played host to the first-ever Canadian Teachers and School Owners convention in October, with representatives from across Canada. The conference was organized by the CIABC. 1. Vera Stark and her team from Interior Academy Kamloops, winner BC Esthetic School of the Year 2. Kirby

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Morris, Norma Eaton, Herman Schut, Stephen Cheung from NP Group and Thomas Fast, Canadian Teacher of the Year 3. Heather Evans, winner BC Esthetics Teacher of the Year with Eaton 4. Schwarzkopf's George Broder with Rasa Jurenas 5. Inge Hatheway and her team from European Institute of Esthetics, winner Canadian School of the Year 6. Winners of Ontario School of the Year – Hair, from DeVoG Academy of Hair Design Abbey Smith, Terrin Brush, Mindy Armour and Thomas Fast with Dino Cairo and Frank Cairo of Pivot Point Canada

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CASH...

OR LOTIONS You can't pay rent with Lotions!

Becoming a Premier Salon Member will enable you to earn cash back on your lotion orders. We are successful only if you are. We're in this together!

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P R E S S PA S S

INTRODUCING K-PAK COLOR 1 4

Joico introduced the media to its revolutionary new Vero K-PAK Color system (launching this month) at a party in New York City in November. On-hand were hairstylists to the stars from the hit shows American Idol and Grey’s Anatomy as well as the hit movie Pirates of the Caribbean. 1. Sara Jones, senior VP and general manager Joico U.S. being interviewed by CityLine TV 2. (L-R) Martin Samuel (Pirates of the Caribbean), Joico

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creative guru Damien Carney, Dean Banowetz ((American American Idol Idol)), Sue Pemberton Joico's colour queen, and Sean Flanigan (Grey’s Grey’s Anatomy Anatomy) 3. Angella Polsinelli with Damien Carney 4. Posers having fun 5. We met Lionel Ritchie and friend at dinner 6. Introducing the new K-PAK Sun Therapy line 7. Rushi Tasker, VP R &D, Zotos, Eric Kater GM Joico Europe, Melisa Gill brand manager, Joico Canada, Mike Miller, GM Joico Canada, and Joseph Kendy, VP general counsel, Zotos

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2 1 4

SEEN IN LONDON

We ran into several Canadians while visiting Salon International in London back in October. They were there to learn, see the sights and have a good time. 1. Ricci Hair Co's Tony Ricci, Crystal Brown and John Jen Hoe Chong 2. Presentation in Media Room at Salon Intl. 3. Saco's Tracy Hayes, Charmaine Piche and Richard Ashforth with models 4. Saco Montreal's Aldo Furfaro and Katia Jananji. 5. John

Steinberg with Aveda's Antoinette Beenders 6. President of KPSS North America Mario Argenti (centre) with Goldwell GSA top customers Julie Boyle, Dale Abbott, Manon Simard and Brigitte Richard 7. Kevin Millman, Tracy Gronick, western regional manager for KPSS, Dean Hickman and Sue Millman from KPSS/Goldwell at the gates to Buckingham Palace 8. Danny Chretien, Dale Abbott, Dean Abbott, Dean Hickman

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Just come and visit us at the

Toronto ABA Hair Show

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and enter a ballot or drop a business card into the ballot box at our booth.

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P R E S S PA S S ��

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SACO HITS THE HAMMER

In October the team from Saco visited the Hamilton Art Gallery for a presentation to a sell-out crowd of hairstylists. The event was hosted by Radiant Beauty Supplies and Schwarzkopf Professional Canada. 1.(L-R) Schwarzkopf's Monica DeJong Kristie Quinn and Kelly Cook with Radiant Beauty's Ken Cohen and Joanne Martorelli 2. (Left), Radiant Beauty's Tony Golini and Mark Commisso from Salon Dior. 3. The Saco team (L-R) Katia Jananji, Marek Whitechurch, Charmaine Piche 2 and Richard Ashforth

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LET IT RIDE The team from the Hair Loft Day Spa in Dunnville, Ontario, gave back in a different direction this past year and held the Great Ride-N-Stride fundraising event to help fight prostate cancer. They raised over $10,000. (L-R) Hair Loft team members Jen Jankowski, Janelle Flat, owner Malcolm Ringrose, Canadian Cancer Society coordinator Angela Daley, Crystal Downey and Michelle Culp.

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A.I.I. China Glaze Blush pg 63 ..........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com A.I.I. GiGi Wax pg 81 ..........................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com A.I.I. IBD pg 71 ..................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com ABA 2007 pg 117 ...............................................800-268-6644 ........................ www.abacanada.com ABA Gala pg 109 ...............................................800-268-6644 ........................ www.abacanada.com Aveda pg 23 .......................................................800-328-0849 ........................ www.aveda.com Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 99 ................888-737-6268 ........................ www.cdnmicropigmentation.com Collega for Aveda pg 37 ....................................866-374-9587 ........................ www.aveda.com Craze Champagne & Roses pg 114 ..................877-325-7773 ........................ www.craze-esthetics.com Creative Nail Desgin Readers’ Choice pg 21 ...800-833-NAIL ....................... www.creativenaildesign.com Dennis Bernard Powertools pg 101 .................800-541-5456 ........................ www.DennisBernard.com Dikson Premium Color pg 41 ...........................800-334-8240 ........................ www.diksonservice.com Donato Hairdo pg 53 .........................................866-424-2278 ........................ www.donato.ca Essie Sheer Indulgence pg 45 ..........................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essiecosmetics.com Farouk CHI Enviro pg 25 ...................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com Farouk CHI Nourish pg 17 ................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com Farouk CHI Twisted pg 31 .................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com Fudge Headpaint pg 8-9 ...................................888-383-4387 ........................ www.fudge.com Global Best pg 112 Goldwell pg 33 ..................................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwellusa.com Great Lengths State of an Art pg 49 .................800-461-9302 ........................ www.hscinternational.com Intercosmetics pg 83 ........................................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca International Beauty Sevices pg 105 ................800-642-3818 ........................ ISO i.color pg 124 ..............................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca Joico K-Pak pg 18-19 .......................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com Keyano Champagne pg 102 ............................................................................. www.keyano.com L’anza Art Elements pg 43 ................................800-661-1424 ........................ www.lanza.com L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.art pg 14-15..........800-361-1861 ........................ www.lorealprofessionnel.ca Lakmé pg 39 .................................................................................................... www.lakme.com Lanvain pg 57 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN pg 77..........................................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca Liquid Luxuries Salon Systems pg 115 ............800-387-2962 ........................ www.tbbs.com Look Good Feel Better pg 106 ..........................800-914-5665 ........................ www.lgfb.com Magna Esthetics Supply pg 104 ........................800-561-3766 ........................ www.magnaesthetics.com Matrix Academy pg 103 ....................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Shade Memory pg 2-3 ..........................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com National Hairdresser Services pg 108..............888-424-7111 ........................ www.nhshair.com NP Group Classimo pg 73 .................................800-267-4247 ........................ www.npgroup.ca OPI Australia Collection pg 35 ..........................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Paul Mitchell behindthebottle.com pg 6-7 .......800-793-8790 ........................ www.paulmitchell.com Pivot Point Canada pg 116 ................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca PureOlogy Serious Colour Care pg 13 ..............800-331-1502 ........................ www.pureology.com Redken ONEXONE pg 10-11 .............................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Rova Beauty Systems pg 110 ............................888-442-9999 ........................ www.tanningtechnologies.com Salon52 pg 66....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf pg 20 ............................................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Schwarzkopf Igora Royal pg 4-5 .......................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Senscience Liquid Luxury pg 29 .......................800-267-4676 ........................ www.zotos.com Star Nail pg 87 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio Naturalé pg 65 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Supre Hempz Color Preserve pg 69 .................800-825-7020 ........................ www.hempzhaircare.com Supre Hempz Facial Skin Care pg 75 ...............800-825-7020 ........................ www.hempzproducts.com Supre Hempz HydroMist pg 111 .......................800-825-7020 ........................ www.supre.com Supre Ocho pg 93 ..............................................800-825-7020 ........................ www.supre.com True Concepts pg 58 .........................................877-TRUE-480 ...................... www.truehairext.com Ultra Pedicure pg 82 .........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com Urban Beauty Systems pg 30 ...........................866-731-4327 ........................ www.urbanbeautysystems.com Uvalux Australian Gold pg 85 ...........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Cash Back pg 113 .................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Cheers pg 95 .........................................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Hydration Station pg 123 ......................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Rejuvasun 332 pg 122 ..........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Swedish Beauty pg 90 ...........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Your Name Professional pg 89 ........................................................................ www.yournamepro.com

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Marketplace

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Your guide to products and services for professional salons

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Our “Beauty All” program offers: Extensive Coverage Professional Services Industry Knowledge Individualized Solutions We specialize in: Aesthetics Electrolysis Lazer Hair Removal Spider Vein Removal Hairdressing All other beauty treatment Call today for a no obligation Insurance Review & Quotation.

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Safety & Security Wherever You Are

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Nacora Insurance Brokers Ltd. 6451 Northwest Drive, Mississauga, ON Phone: (905) 405-8827 ext:575 Fax: (905) 677-6380 Toll Free: 1-800-761-4938 Email:info.canada@nacora.com Website: www.nacora.com

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Classifieds

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�� SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 16 Issue 3

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Calgary — Head Office

Tel: 403-243-0464 fx: 403-243-0465 Toll Free: 1-800-420-4676

#7 4412 Manilla Rd. SE Calgary, AB T2G 4B7

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JOBS � EVENTS � CONTESSAS � MORE

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REJUVASUN

TANNING & SKIN BEAUTY TREATMENT

IN 1

inutes ion: 20 m asun sess bilities | Over uv ej R or d/ tanning an or rejuvenating capa rylic system ac 20 minutes Tan | Hinged on time | Rejuvasun panel | si es ls ne e lighting pa e) D decorativ odulation itting diod LE om | em ot ht ph gy ig 1 lo (l le | D no tib e™ facials minute pulsating LE ve rejuvenation tech ax® compa ltra-Pressur 20 ireless T-M vasi mps | 2 U res: Non-tanning ith non-in timer | W la l w ta dy ed gi at di bo ci ® stem atu asso h-tech Wolff sy special fe avelengths awer | Hig lamps: 32 Rejuvasun session venating lights | W | Slide out utility dr ju or rs re d/ r te an ar be g st tannin tronic and Am Super Red ew Blue Juice™ elec 1000 Red, Ask your Authorized Distributor or ace | N rf su g in 7 ft. Tann

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Uvalux International Inc.

DANGER. Ultraviolet Radiation. Overexposure causes skin and eye burns.Use protective eyewear. Follow instructions.Drugs and cosmetics may increase UV effects.UV exposure can be hazardous to your health andin the long term can contribute to premature ageingand skin cancer. UV effects are cumulative.Greater risks are associated with early and repeated exposure.

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