Salon Magazine, March 2015

Page 1

13 Tips from Industry Experts

BUILD YOUR

PORTFOLIO Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

MOTIVATION

MATTERS

Focus on

TAKING YOUR SALON TEAM TO THE

NEXT LEVEL

Education

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MARCH 15 $5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

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Photo courtesy of Sassoon Academy.

A SCHOLARSHIP WITH STYLE Advance your craft with the prestigious Vidal Sassoon Beauty Education Scholarship. To honor Vidal’s lifelong love of learning, we have created a $1.5 million fund to support both beginning beauty school students and licensed professionals in the pursuit of higher learning. Entry form has been simplified! Apply by April 6, 2015. Learn more at HairdressersAtHeart.com

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FROM ROOTS TO GRASSROOTS #WELLACARES. Introducing the #WellaCares Challenge, a contest designed to recognize game changers who are making a real difference.

Photo courtesy of Sassoon Academy.

Whether you’re hosting a cut-a-thon for charity or saving water in your salon, we’re offering prizes up to $10,000 in two categories: Community Impact and Salon Sustainability. For entry tips and details, visit www.hairdressersatheart.com Deadline to enter is March 12, 2015.

Wella Professionals

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www.facebook.com/WellaProCanada

#wellahair • 1-800-419-3552 • 2015 Procter & Gamble Inc. Toronto, ON M5W 1C5 All rights reserved 1-800-419-3552 1-800-419-3552

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CREATING A LEGACY 2015 marks 35 years of creating and preserving beauty around the world. From our cruelty-free hair care line to founding farms, planting trees, protecting and investing in our children’s futures, Paul Mitchell® has always strived to improve our planet. We’re on a mission to make a difference.

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MARCH.15 SALONMAGAZINE.CA FEATURES 50

CREATE A WINNING PORTFOLIO How to build your portfolio and start your career on the right path.

52

BOOST YOUR CAREER CREATIVITY Know your career options beyond the salon.

56

THE THINNING TRUTH How to handle this hot-button issue.

60

COLLECTIONS Karine Jackson; D&J Ambrose; Goldwell; Wella Professionals; Domenico Tomei; Danielle Barbey; Loretta Tom; Salon Pure; Matt Waldron; Blunt Salon Inc.; Dat Tran; Julie Vriesinga

60 ON OUR COVER:

KARINE JACKSON, KARINE JACKSON HAIR & BEAUTY, LONDON

Hair: Darren Ambrose Colour: Abby Smith, D&J Ambrose, Middlesex, U.K. Styling: Jackie Ambrose and Abby Smith Photos: Gabor Szantai

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Call 800.341.9999 or visit pro.opi.com • ©2015 OPI Products Inc. • Volcanic imagery © G. Brad Lewis

Lacquers from left to right: Suzi Shops & Island Hops Just Lanai-ing Around Hello Hawaii Ya? This Color’s Making Waves My Gecko Does Tricks Pineapples Have Peelings Too! That’s Hula-rious! Go with the Lava Flow Lost My Bikini in Molokini Do You Take Lei Away? Is Mai Tai Crooked? Aloha from OPI

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All Hawaii Collection shades are available in GELCOLOR BY OPI OPI is guaranteed only when purchased through authorized professional beauty outlets and prestige stores, not from a drugstore, supermarket, mass outlet, or other unauthorized source.

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REGULARS 16 18

EDITOR’S LETTER

20

SALONMAGAZINE.CA

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HAIRLINES

84

CONTESSA GALLERY

86

PROFILE

64

GOLDWELL COLOR ZOOM

80

DAT TRAN DAT TRAN SALON, TORONTO

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SALON PURE, MONTREAL

90

GOLDWELL/KMS ACADEMY, TORONTO

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88 90

PUBLISHER’S NOTE This month at SalonMagazine.ca

A Recipe for Style p. 23; #NoFilter p. 23; Liquid Gold p. 23; Precious Oils p. 24; Hair SOS p. 24; Hydration Hero p. 24; Scented Strands p. 26; Back to Basics p. 26; 3 Ways to Green Up Your Salon for Earth Month p. 26; Nourishing Blend p. 28; Hello, Blondie! p. 28; Flexible Learning p. 28; Hair Food p. 28; Get Appy p. 30; Put Your Game Face On p. 30; Thin Fix p. 30; ABA Montreal p. 32; ABA Toronto p. 32; The Science of Great Hair p. 34; Dry Spell p. 34; Revlon Professional First Annual Salon Masters Show p. 34; Time Saving Styles p. 36; Web MC p. 36; Curly Hair Commandments p. 38; Buy, Use, Love p. 38; BaBylissPro MiraCurl SteamTech p. 38; Colour: Lights Down Low p. 40; Nails: 3 Uses for the LCN Natural Nail Boost Gel p. 42; Spring Forward p. 42; Mr. Grey Will See You Now p. 42; Nails: Hand Health p. 44; Nails: Straight to the Top p. 46; Editor's Picks p. 48

Alina Friesen, Contessa 26 Finalist, British Columbia Hairstylist of the Year

Stellar Moves: Matt Waldron

BUSINESS Generation Management

INTERIORS Back to School : Goldwell/KMS Academy, Toronto

93

EVENTS

96

SCOOP

98

BY THE NUMBERS

42

SPRING NAIL LAUNCHES salonmagazine.ca

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BLONDOR FREELIGHTS SUNKISSED BEAUTY WITH A POP OF PERSONALITY Discover sunkissed hair with BLONDOR FREELIGHTS, our new lightening system that gives you the freedom to create naturallooking hair using the hand painted Balayage technique. No foils or fuss, just a beautiful sun-lightened effect. Dial up the style and add an element of surprise with iNSTAMAT!C by Color Touch, six new fashion-forward temporary shades with a matte gloss finish.

Clear Dust

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#wellahair • 1 800 419-3552 ©2015 Procter & Gamble, Inc., Toronto, ON. M5W 1C5 All Rights Reserved.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Cutting it Close

S

tanding in front of the mirror, my six-year-old announced that she could be a hairstylist, right now. According to her, she’s got the qualifications including an ability to brush her hair, make a ponytail

and cut hair. Admittedly, that last one made my cringe just a little. If only we all embodied such confidence. Yet we can, with the right education. I’m not a hairstylist and my daughters consistently suffer from less-

raise expectations

I had the opportunity to enhance my subpar skills at the Aveda Institute in Minneapolis last year, I was all in. While attending the launch of the company’s new online education program LearnAveda, myself and other editors were tasked with cutting a bob. I can barely manage a straight fringe on my three-year-old I thought;

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learning something new. At this time of year, we’re all looking for a way

exactly the confidence that's required for nailing a winning look, but I gave it my best shot. And the instructors, Tristan Morrison, Aveda Canada’s creative director, and Ricardo Denis, Aveda’s global artistic director for hair cutting, were go, but I did learn a few simple tricks (like keeping the shear blades horizontal as you’re cutting) that are making a difference in how I cut my daughters’ hair. While I’ll never embody the confidence (or expertise) of a professional hairstylist, the experience reminded me what it feels like when you’re to freshen up. Why not step away from your comfort zone and try your hand at a new skill? Chances are, you’ll learn a new trick or two that just might inspire you to move in a new career direction.

1.800.615.9899

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief Facebook “f ” Logo

THE SOURCE FOR HAIR Since 1993 16

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PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

lower costs

than-perfect haircuts at home. So when

CMYK / .ai

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/SalonMag or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 24 issue 3

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Ashley Kowalewski 416.869.3131 ext.119 ashley@salonmagazine.ca DESIGNER

Gareth Adamson 416.869.3131 ext.106 gareth@salonmagazine.ca ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.122 nicole@salonmagazine.ca

R

COPY EDITOR

Master Your Domain

Corinna Reeves CONTRIBUTORS

Paul Chmieloweic GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 SamanthaAnobile1@gmail.com

ecently, I came across an interesting book, Mastery, by Robert

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Greene. After doing a little research on the writer, I read an

Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca

interview published in Forbes magazine in which Greene says

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

mastery isn’t genetic but born of passion, which you can turn into

OPERATIONS MANAGER

Karren Han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca

expertise, or mastery. This was music to my ears because our industry is

CIRCULATION MANAGER

filled with passionate people.

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 F. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca

Although the concept of mastery isn’t entirely new, what really

EXECUTIVE BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

resonated with me was Greene’s link between passion and mastery.

Candice Besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca

Ultimately, this thinking speaks to the importance of ongoing learning.

CHAIRMAN

Education is the best investment a beauty professional can make in his

Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca

or her career. Combine learning with your passion for hair and beauty

ASSISTANT TO THE CHAIRMAN

Pam Fulford

and the return on your investment can be outstanding.

VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca

Equally important is a salon owner’s development and implementation of education programs. Without a doubt, the biggest payoff is happy

SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location FOR US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD

clients who are satisfied with your salon’s outstanding services. By investing in learning opportunities for your salon team, you’ll grow and nurture each member’s talents and fuel their passion for their careers.

A D D RE SS CH A NGE S Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

From increasing motivation to inspiring creativity to building your team,

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

the results will benefit your salon big time. However, watching a demonstration or performing a salon service a

PO Box 357, Beeton, ON L0G 1A0 Canada

couple of times doesn’t mean you’ll hit the mark instantly. With technical

SA LON M AGA Z INE

practice and practice some more. Nothing keeps a client more loyal to her salon than knowing that she simply can’t get the same hairstyle or hair colour anywhere else. These days, education is more accessible than ever. From in-salon training to online courses to manufacturer and distributor classes, you can find most programs to suit your skill level and your pocketbook. Build your own salon education plan—big or small—and become the master of your universe.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

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PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

services such as colour, smoothing systems and hair extensions, there is a degree of mastery required, and that takes time to acquire. Practice,

Phone: 905.729.1288

365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON, M4W 3L4 T. 416.869.3131 F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

National Magazine Awards GOLD

SILVER

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

TOP FIVE

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclable pape

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C A N A DA

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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online at

GET READY FOR FALL/WINTER 2015 FASHION WEEK for the upcoming seasons, kicking off in early February.

Community Contest Winner

In an industry that is constantly evolving, education is a way

Jamie Sawyer of R3 Salon & Spa, in Saskatoon, Sask. won our Party-Ready Hair

to set yourself apart and stay engaged and current.Whether

“So You Think You Can Style?” contest with her festive, textured updo. Motivated to push her creative skills, Sawyer began collaborating with local photographers and

I think young stylists need to challenge themselves and get inspired by the environment around them. It's always encouraging to get your work out there and get feedback from others in the industry.

20

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you’re looking to sharpen your skills or pick up new ones, there’s a class or course out there for you. Visit SalonMagazine.ca to see our

makeup artists to create new looks.

facebook.com/SalonMag

COULD EDUCATION BE YOUR NEXT STEP?

twitter.com/Salon_Magazine

education listings and get inspired!

See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections! pinterest.com/SalonMagazine

COMMUNITY CONTEST WINNER HAIR: JAMIE SAWYER AT R3 SALON & SPA, SASKATOON, SASK. PHOTOGRAPHER: CARLENE HADAY PHOTOGRAPHY; MUA/CLOTHING DESIGNER: REGINALD DESHAWN, MODEL: LEANNE PAUL; FASHION WEEK PHOTO: CUSHNIE ET OCHS SPRING / SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION, EDUCATION PHOTO: MALIBU C

Head to SalonMagazine.ca to find out about all of the trends

Salon Magazine

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IT’S IN YOUR HANDS. MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN THE LIFE OF YOUR GREY COVERAGE CLIENTS. WITH A BROAD OFFERING OF HI-DEF COLOR SERVICES, YOU WILL MAKE EVERY CLIENT’S DREAM COME TRUE. To find out how to make the most of grey, contact a Goldwell consultant.

For availability of Goldwell Haircare Products across Canada call Client Services: 1-877-670-6767

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REVIVE % 86 of respondents in an independent

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Be A Hair Hero •Thicker, fuller, healthier-looking hair •Bosley Doctor Recommended BosRevive for Color-Treated Hair

* The accuracy, reliability, or completeness of the furnished data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and Scientific Hair Research, LLC’ s and its representatives disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use the data.

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ESP Salon Sales: 1-800-667-2566 | Kingdom Beauty Supplies Ltd: 1-800-738-8666 | Star Bedard: 1-800-361-1978 | Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply: 1-800-387-2962

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HAIRLINES NEWS

A Recipe for Style The new Matrix Style Link collection allows for endless styles. With 12 products in the Prep, Play and Perfect lineups (from smoothing creams to heat protectors to styling pastes) and three Boosters (Volume, Gloss and Hold), the Style Link collection from Matrix allows you to create endless possibilities that work with all hair types. Alex Chabot, artistic director for Matrix, says, “Add a dime-size amount of the product you’re working with to the palm of your hand, add

#NoFilter Give your clients snapworthy hair with the new Wella Professionals Blondor Freelights and Instamatic by Color Touch shades.

one or two pumps of the Booster, mix it with the product and apply it to the hair“ and add volume, shine and an extra bit of hold to any product in the line.

+

=

A sleek and smooth but voluminous style, even if your client has fine, flat tresses

Clients craving that trendy matte pastel colour? Now they can have it without any filter. Start by lightening hair with the Blondor Freelights developer, giving hair a soft, sun-kissed base to work with. Next, add your client’s colour combination of choice with the five new Instamatic by Color Touch shades—Pink Dream, Muted Mauve, Jaded Mint, Ocean Storm and Smokey Amethyst—either painting or sponging on shades in different patterns on sectioned-off hair to achieve your client’s desired look. For a more diffused finish, add the Clear Dust shade over the colour. This low-maintenance coverage will keep hair looking fresh and your client stylish long past her salon visit.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: MATRIX, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, OROFLUIDO

+

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A reworkable style that doesn’t have to sacrifice a high-shine finish

Liquid Gold Orofluido delivers some serious hydration and is now colour-safe and sulfate-free.

+

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All-day hold for updos, curls and week-long blowouts

Experience the revamped lineup of

and Mask. The latest offering in the

Orofluido products: rich, hydrating

collection is the Orofluido Volume

and luxurious hair care that is now

Mousse, which provides endless

safer on colour and sulfate-free.

moisture and weightless volume with

This trifecta of oils—argan, cyperus

provitamin B5, silk amino acids and

and linseed—offers strong, smooth

wheat amino acids to strengthen

and manageable hair in three core

damaged hair while leaving it soft and

products: the Shampoo, Conditioner

smooth to the touch.

march.15

salon

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2015-01-28 4:48 PM


HAIRLINES NEWS

Precious Oils Bring back hydration in a big way with MarulaOil, a new collection from John Paul DeJoria. Intense moisture is bred with an exotic touch with the latest in the oil club: the antioxidant-rich yet luxuriously lightweight MarulaOil collection from John Paul DeJoria. This decadent cold-pressed oil provides more than just strong, smooth tresses; it also offers a sustainable economy for those who

Hair SOS

harvest marula oil in its native home of Africa. The new collection offers the Rare Oil Replenishing Shampoo, Rare Oil Replenishing Conditioner,

From frizzy and flat to greasy and damaged tresses, the Sebastian Professional Hair Emergency Kits are your clients’ quick fixes.

Rare Oil Treatment, Rare Oil Treatment Light for finer strands, and Rare Oil Intensive Masque, which, when used in tandem, restore moisture to dry, dull hair, leaving it soft, smooth and lustrous.

At one time or another, nearly every client’s hair needs some TLC. Give her the right fix with Sebastian Professional Hair

L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Mythic Oil Sève Protectrice is the missing link in the hydrating collection.

brand’s go-to products. Smooth and tame unruly tresses with the Frizz Fighter pack, complete with Whipped Crème, Volupt Spray and Shaper Plus to give hair soft definition and nix flyaways. Give hair a voluminous boost with the Flat Fix combo, including Re-Shaper,

The L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil collection

Volupt Shampoo and Volupt Conditioner

is a staple for those clients needing some deep

for long-lasting, root-lifting volume.

hydration, and with options for fine hair to thick and

Clients craving that second-day style

damaged strands, the only thing missing was some

will love Grease Goodbye. With its Dry

added hydrating protection with the new Sève

Clean Only dry shampoo, Potion 9 Lite

Protectrice. The oil-in-cream pre-drying treatment

leave-in conditioner and Gel Forte, your

protects strands from heat styling for up to 230˚C

clients can ditch the bedhead and keep

(446˚F) and keeps all that moisture locked in. It can

their style.

be used with any combination of the Mythic Oil

Restore and fortify split ends with

products to protect on any hair type.

Sebastian Professional's Potion 9 and Penetraitt Shampoo and Conditioner, which strengthen and hydrate broken tresses.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: JOHN PAUL DEJORIA, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Hydration Hero

Emergency Kits, made up of some of the

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Scented Strands More and more companies are creating a sensory experience in their products, including the new Hair Perfume from Label.M.

Listing a product’s cutting-edge ingredients

and scent, with notes like the woody

and technology is no longer enough. In

floral combination of bergamot, nutmeg,

fact, fragrance notes are listed in hair care

tuberose and cedarwood. For clients

and styling products as though you were

looking for a sensory experience, this Hair

purchasing your go-to perfume. It’s no

Perfume is the perfect scalp massage

surprise, then, that Label.M would launch

product and will up the relaxation and

the new Hair Perfume, marrying hair care

pampering factor from the moment they

with a light and hydrating argan oil formula

sit in your chair.

THINK

green

3

Ways to Green Up Your Salon for Earth Month

Earth Month is almost here, so get your space ready with these tips from Green Circle Salons.

BACK TO BASICS

Light It Up Great lighting in your salon is a must, but you don’t have to sacrifice a well-lit space for some energy-efficient bulbs. “You can save up to 85

Deconstructing one of the most

per cent on your lighting bills when you switch to LED light bulbs, and

sought after styles with some of

your salon will stay cooler in summer, saving you mega-money on air

Unite’s latest offerings.

conditioning,” not to mention reducing your energy consumption.

Consider going paperless with your bills and invoices. “Since many companies are now charging for paper statements, switching to

The blowout is probably one of the most requested styles you get in your chair. With some of the new products from Unite, here are three tips to get this covetable look.

e-invoicing saves money and the environment while reducing clutter,”

BUILD IT UP

so you can file away everything neatly on your computer without

Bring hair to new heights by working Unite Elevate Mousse through

having excess documents to sift through.

damp strands. It offers weightless volume and a frizz-free, shiny

Omit Emissions

hold while prepping hair for heat styling. ROUND IT OUT

Did you know that you can retrofit your salon to reduce your energy

Get hair ready for blowout magic by sectioning it off, then selecting

emissions? “Bullfrog Power, an eco-utility company based in Toronto,

one of the new Unite Ceramic Round Brushes, which range from

has a salon-specific package that replaces your salon’s energy with

one to two inches. These brushes help speed up drying time while

environmentally friendly, renewable energy.” And you don’t need to

keeping hair smooth, sleek and static-free.

undergo salon renovations or do any rewiring. Bonus: Bullfrog Power

COOL IT DOWN

even gives you the tools to market your renewable space.

Make that bouncy roundness last even longer by pinning each section and allowing it to cool before shaking out your client’s look.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: LABEL. M, UNITE

Digital Paper Trail

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-28 4:49 PM


NEW

SteamTech The longest lasting, shiniest, most perfectlyformed curls Introducing the SteamTech™ MiraCurl® with optional steam function.

20% higher curl definition*, 50% better curl formation*, 24-hour hold. Create curls that outlast and outshine anything you’ve ever experienced.

* Based upon independent testing by a third-party lab comparing use with regular curl machine. © 2015 BaBylissPRO DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL | www.dannyco.com

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2015-01-28 2015-01-06 5:32 9:33 PM AM


HAIRLINES NEWS

Hello, Blondie! Sexy Hair launches its new Blonde Sexy Hair collection, just in time for lightening season.

NOURISHING BLEND

Give clients a customized service with the new

Care & Treatment collections from Macadamia Professional. Whether your clients have fine, medium or coarse tresses, 10 new products from the three Macadamia Professional Care & Treatment lineups, including Weightless Moisture, Nourishing Moisture and Ultra Rich Moisture, will restore balance and protect damaged strands from environmental

Buttery blondes and bombshells alike can get excited about the latest launch from Sexy Hair: the Blonde Sexy Hair collection, which promises to brighten and hydrate colour-treated tresses. The line contains five products, including Sulfate-Fee Bright Blonde Shampoo, Sulfate-Free Bombshell Blonde Shampoo,Sulfate-Free Bombshell Blonde Conditioner, Bombshell Blonde Reconstructor and Shining Star Shine Enhancing Color Preserving Spray.

factors and heat styling. Each lineup has its own cocktail of macadamia and argan oils blended with other omega-rich oils and vitamins for a smooth and sleek finish, no matter what

HAIR food Help protect damaged hair

Aveda takes a holistic approach to learning.

with the ColorProof Baobab Heal & Repair line. With LearnAveda, an online

and practice videos and have the

With brands on a constant

education curriculum, hairstylists

flexibility to learn at their own

quest around the world to

can hone their cutting and

pace. Based on classic shapes and

find the best ingredients

styling skills virtually anywhere.

techniques, the curriculum guides

for beautiful hair, even

Incorporating principles of yoga

hairstylists through each step and

after colour and chemical

and Ayurevdic teaching, the

features 15 different haircuts. As

treatments, the latest

to store moisture in hot

curriculum is intended to offer

Aveda Canada’s president, Ray

buzz worthy ingredient—

climates, perfect for those

beginner to advanced hairstylists

Civello says, the curriculum’s

baobab—has made its way

clients needing some serious

the ability to visualize cuts from

approach incorporates a common

into the newest launch from

moisture renewal and

beginning to end. Produced in

language that is consistent for

ColorProof: Baobab Heal

heat damage protection.

Canada, LearnAveda’s cut and

hairstylists, educators and salon

& Repair Shampoo and

Along with ColorProof’s

style curriculum will not only

owners on a global level. Find

Conditioner. Found in Africa,

roster of colour-protecting

enable educators to provide

out more about the program’s

this superfruit is packed with

ingredients, this new duo

standardized training but also

benefits at salonmagazine.ca.

vitamins and antioxidants

smoothes hair and shields it

allow hairstylists to use the pause

and is known for its ability

from further damage.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: MACADAMIA PROFESSIONAL, SEXY HAIR,THINKSTOCK, COLORPROOF

Flexible Learning

hair type your client has.

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:29 PM


Pure Creativity. Pure Artistry. Unlimited Possibilities! www.rusk1.com or call 800.USE.RUSK for more information facebook.com/ruskhaircare

@ruskhaircare

@ruskhaircare

Š2015 RUSK 15AF012454

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2015-01-28 5:33 PM 1/22/15 9:56 PM


HAIRLINES NEWS

GET

appy!

Put Your Game Face On!

Keep it mobile and social with some of the industry’s best hair apps.

GOLDWELL Make the most of your Goldwell Color Zoom education with this free app, available for both iOS and Android. The app accompanies the hairstylist’s guide you receive when taking a course at the Goldwell/KMS Academy (read more on page 90), bringing the colour and cut techniques to life in 3-D.

Get ready for the fourth annual Reader’s Choice Awards. This year it’s all about going head to head in

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL Schwarzkopf Professional is making waves in the social sphere with three apps to make the most of its brand and product offerings. House of Color focuses on formulations and colour brands, Hair Expert keeps stylists in the loop for the latest care products and Essential Looks brings the inspiration for the latest trends and collections right to the palm of your hand.

the battle of professional beauty products with the fourth annual Reader’s Choice Awards. We are looking for the best in the biz and want to see some of your must-have products in our 20 categories. Vote for your favourite product from April 1 to 15 and see which beauty products take the title in our July/August issue.

2014 WINNERS

BANGSTYLE Need some inspiration for collections and styles? Bangstyle works with brands like Kevin.Murphy and Paul Mitchell to bring stylists and clients closer together. Stylists can create portfolios to flaunt their work while getting some educational tips, while clients can search for stylists and get info on why seeing a stylist really is so important.

Shampoo & Conditioner Duo: Kevin.Murphy Hydrate-Me.Wash and Hydrate-Me.Rinse Styling Product: ColorProof FiberBlast Texture Crème Hairspray: Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS Session Spray Deep Conditioner/Reconstructor: Joico K-Pak

NIOXIN'S LATEST TECHNOLOGY, MINOXIDILTREATMENT This three-time Reader’s Choice Award-winning brand launches four new products to work alongside Nioxin 3-Part Systems to promote hair regrowth. The Nioxin Minoxidil Hair Regrowth Treatments for Men and Women uses minoxidil, an ingredient that is clinically proven to help hair regrowth while slowing down the process of hair loss and thinning. Paired with the Scalp Optimizing Cleanser and Scalp Optimizing Conditioner, it helps maintain existing hair and prevent loss and thinning caused by damage, while prepping the scalp for new hair growth.

Dry Shampoo: Kevin.Murphy Fresh.Hair Serum/Oil: Moroccanoil Treatment Men’s Brand: American Crew Hair Loss or Thinning Brand: Nioxin 3 Part System Permanent Hair Colour: Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal Demi-Permanent Hair Colour: Redken Shades EQ In-Salon Smoothing System: Keratin Complex Smoothing Therapy Hair Extension Brand: Great Lengths Appliance Brand: BaByliss Pro Polish/Lacquer Brand: OPI Makeup Brand: Mirabella Beauty Skincare Brand: Dermalogica Lightening System: Wella Professionals Blondor Curl/Texture Enhancer: Moroccanoil Curl Control Mousse Nail Enhancement: OPI Axxium Gel System

Want to know more about the latest in thinning hair innovations? Head over to page 56

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Soak-Off Gel: CND Shellac

PHOTOS TOP TO BOTTOM: GOLDWELL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, BANGSTYLE, NIOXIN

THIN FIX

Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:31 PM


in the U.S.

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2015-01-28 12:06 PM


SPONSORED CONTENT

HAIRLINES NEWS

ABA MONTREAL March 8 and 9

Creating buzz and excitement on the competition platform, flash mobs will culminate in a hair jam, adding a theatrical element to the Montreal show. Featuring a redesigned show, including a new entrance

ASK

area designed by the team Pascal & Jeremie, for the first time live competitions will take place on

the Expert

the show floor. Further extending

In the beauty business, education is ongoing, dynamic and fluid. With more than 25 years of industry experience, Damien Carney is now bringing his artistic direction to Schwarzkopf Professional’s ASK Academy. Here’s how education can ignite your passion for hair, at every stage of your career.

its audience reach, ABA TV will host manufacturers’ artistic talents, for a series of interviews that will be airing throughout the day and on the ABA’s YouTube channel.

How can hairstylists hit the next level in their careers?

Prioritize where you want to be a week, a month and year from now, then find the classes you need to get there. Education is exercise for your mind, and it’s about keeping yourself fresh. At the ASK Academy classes based on what your needs are from colour to finishing to photo shoots to brushing up on your fundamentals.

WHETHER IT IS ‶ADVANCED OR

learn the fundamentals, these are the

REFRESHING, THE ASK ACADEMY CAN GIVE YOU THE EDUCATION YOU NEED TO BUILD YOUR CONFIDENCE AND BUSINESS.

building blocks to your creativity. Keep

—DAMIEN CARNEY

Why is education a big part of inspiration?

Remember, you always need to refresh —not necessarily reinvent yourself, but bend the rules to make your work more relevant today. When you

yourself stimulated, by doing research and practising variations and, most importantly, keep an open mind.

ABA TORONTO April 19 and 20

Kim Vo will take to the main stage in Toronto each day, as well as teach a look-and-learn private class. The men’s hair and barbering trend will be the main focus and will include a Battle of the Barbers. Private classes including hair tattooing, men’s grooming, barbering and business building to round out the weekend. Competitions will also be held on the show floor with the main stage featuring a rotating lineup of manufacturers’ artists.

PHOTOS: PHILIPPE PAQUIN, SALON STAFF

in Toronto, you have so many different

To find out more about the ASK Academy call 1-800-463-3081 or download the seminar brochure at schwarzkopf-professional.ca.

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2015-01-29 3:36 PM


NEW WELLA PROFESSIONALS

INSPIRED BY THE STRENGTH AND BEAUTY OF TREES Free of sulfates, parabens and artificial colorants. Up to 10 times more keratin protection* for renewed hair vitality. Discover more at www.wella.com * shampoo and conditioner or shampoo and mask versus non-conditioning shampoo.

Wella Professionals

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http://facebook.com/WellaProCanada

Follow us on

Instagram

#Wellahair Š2015 Procter & Gamble Inc. Toronto, ON M5W 1C5 All rights reserved

14-11-26 12:12 PM 2014-11-26 2:52 PM


HAIRLINES NEWS

THE SCIENCE OF GREAT HAIR

Dry Spell

Get hair like the lust worthy celeb herself with Living Proof. Whether your client is still rocking “The Rachel” and aspiring to have enviable hair like co-owner Jennifer Aniston or just looking for a no-frills hair care routine, Living Proof provides all that and more. Its innovative technology and ingredients (like the OFPMA for healthy hair and PBAE for volume) create smooth, strong strands from the inside out, providing both treatment and styling at the same time. From the PhD (Perfect Hair Day) collection to the lineup of curl-friendly products, Living Proof fosters the mentality that if you can’t find it, build it yourself, giving each of your clients uncompromisingly amazing hair, no matter what texture or type.

Three uses for Kenra Platinum Dry Thickening Spray 4.

1

Soak up secondday grease.

Those clients hoping to maintain their pristine blowouts can rest easy using the Kenra Platinum Dry Thickening Spray 4, which nixes any sign of yesterday’s product or last night’s sleep, keeping hair looking fresh.

2

Build volume. Sprayed directly on

the roots, this spray offers some serious root-lifting power. It’s perfect for those with fine hair who need a bit of a boost.

3

Hold your style. This no-stick mist

offers a flexible yet long-lasting hold that is resistant to humidity, keeping your client’s style

Revlon Professional First Annual Salon Masters Show

The event will include live presentations from the Canadian finalists for the 2015 Style Masters, who will have the opportunity to compete for a spot in the global leg of the competition in Rome,

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GET READY FOR THE PARTY OF

and American Crew winners. Along

THE YEAR. Mark your calendars

with the new collections from

on March 29 for the first annual

Revlon Professional and American

Salon Masters Show, presented

Crew brands, the night promises

by Revlon Professional Brands

a bevy of creative vision and a

at Muzik Nightclub in Toronto.

celebration of the industry we love.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: LIVINGPROOF, KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, KENRA, REVLON PROFESSIONAL

in place all day long.

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:37 PM


INTRODUCING CPR

COLOR PIGMENT REDUCER BEFORE

CPR Color Pigment Reducer

AFTER

CPR Color Pigment Reducer

Reduces permanent oxidative color pigment and metallic minerals Removes 1-3 levels of pigment without lifting natural hair color Helps preserve the integrity of the hair and cannot overprocess Antioxidant vitamin complex can be immediately followed with color or bleach

AND OTHER PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTORS GLOBALLY

100% Vegan and FREE OF: Gluten, Parabens, Sulfate Surfactants, Preservatives, Bleach, Odors and Formaldehyde Donors www.MalibuC.com/CPR 035.se.m15.malibu_c.1.indd 35

1.800.622.7332 2014-07-30 5:43 PM


SPONSORED CONTENT

HAIRLINES NEWS

TIME SAVING Give your clients a quick and touchable style with the FHI Heat Stylus.

styles

Speed up the style time and get more clients in your chair with the new FHI Heat Stylus, a tangle-free styling tool that works on all hair textures and types. Create texture with the new FHI Heat Stylus, a thermal styling brush that goes

E DUCATION

beyond the average styling tool. With five heat settings and ceramic heating, you can give your clients silky smooth style without damaging their hair.

When the incomparable Vivienne Mackinder speaks, hairstylists around the world listen. She has distilled her 30 years of hairstyling expertise into a comprehensive educational series on HairDesignerTV.com,

Q A

an online learning and networking site for salons and hairstylists. It’s no wonder that Joico and ISO invited Mackinder back for Destination Education 2016 and she’s sharing her top reasons why you need to be there too!

What are the benefits of attending education seminars while you’re on vacation?

Combining education with a great, fun experience is very smart. It’s tough to focus under pressure. When you have time to relax, refresh and unwind, you’re more open and focused on what you’re learning. The rest time is as important as the learning time because you can reflect on your strengths, your goals and where you are at in your career.

Web MC Get the most out of your online education with the new Malibu C Online Academy. Whether you’re a stylist or salon owner or running a chain of salons, continuing education is an important part of your career. The new Malibu C Online Academy provides quick, concise modules for any level of stylist to get certification for both Malibu C treatments and techniques, as well as colour correction, using Malibu

For me, this is a chance to watch different artists in action. I was fortunate to have the opportunity to be a student too. I learn as well, and I have to do something that’s new and different, that sets the bar higher. It’s very gratifying to help people and challenge them, and you need to have your hands in the process to do that.

facebook.com/DestinationEducationCanada facebook.com/JoicoCanada facebook.com/ISOCanada

se.m.15.hairlines.3-1R2.indd 36

C products such as CPR. The everevolving program comes from the brand's education facility in the U.S. but brings the learning to all corners of Canada, with promises of business building and new certification aspects as the community grows.

PHOTOS TOP TO BOTTOM: FHI HEAT, MALIBU C

Q A

Why is being a part of Destination Education important to you?

For more information on Destination Education, visit destinationeducation.ca or call Maria Martins 1-800-267-4676 ext 227

2015-01-29 5:06 PM


ANYTHiNG

BUT ORDINARY

INTRODUCING KENRA COLOR CREATIVE 速

Maximize your creativity with nine semi-permanent colors that allow you to create anything from vibrant custom shades to pastels and everything in between. KENRACOLOR.COM

037.se.m15.kenra.1.indd 37

2015-01-28 12:06 PM


HAIRLINES NEWS

Buy, Use, Love It’s all action with the walletfriendly brand Verb, making its way across the Canadian market. Clients searching for an affordable professional hair care brand can get excited about Verb, bred from a smallbusiness barbershop in Austin, which is now making its way to the Great White North. This paraben-, gluten- and sulfate-free brand boasts a no-frills feel

Curly Hair Commandments

at a reasonable price, allowing your clients to get all of the professional hair care they need—from shampoo to conditioner to a variety of styling products—without breaking the bank.

Make sure your curly-haired clients are following these rules with new launches from

TOOLBOX

the Eufora Curl’n and Smooth’n collections.

1

Thou shalt not brush thy curls. Make sure your clients make friends with the wide-toothed comb

to keep curls bouncy and free of breakage. Give them an extra dose of moisture with the Eufora Curl’n Nourish Treatment, which strengthens and protects hair from heat damage.

2

Thou shalt not abuse the heat. Diffusing your

BaBylissPro MiraCurl SteamTech “The MiraCurl SteamTech tames even the most unruly hair, as it infuses moisture while giving beautiful curl. I love that I have the option of adjusting the steam, allowing me to use it on any hair type,” says Andrea Sampson, director of education at Dannyco, who adds that the technology means she can create a curled look in less than 20 minutes.

client’s curls can be great, but if they’re hoping to

reap the benefits of that second-day look and prevent heat damage, hand them the Curl’n Perfect Curl Activator, which will wake up that bedhead and bring

Optional steam setting, allowing for smoother, silkier curls.

Three heat settings up to 450°F, curl directions and timer settings that allow you to cater to any hair type your client has.

some bounce back to curls.

3

Thou shalt not touch too much. If your clients are having a problem with extra frizzy curls, urge

them to keep their hands off their mane. Using the soft and bouncy curls, free of frizz too.

4

Thou shalt use a conditioning shampoo. Give curls the extra moisture they crave with the Curl’n

Cleansing Cream, designed to smooth, fortify and hydrate curls before your client even puts in their product.

5

Thou shalt embrace the light. If your client’s curls are looking a little lacklustre and dull, add

some dimension and shine with the Smooth’n Oil Therapy, which will help define curls without weighing them down, while locking in hydration.

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The MaxLife Pro brushless motor and Nano Titanium curl chamber allow hair to gently be pulled through without tangling, leaving behind soft and long-lasting curls.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: EUFORA,VERB, BABYLISS PRO

Curl’n Forming Cream will also help maintain smooth,

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-28 4:58 PM


In business for over 20+ years in Canada, Great Lengths continues to be the most recognized Hair Extension Brand in the world. Our supreme hair quality, industry leading education and customer service sets Great Lengths apart. We are the global leaders of ethically sourced, fully traceable, non-chemically treated hair to the professional salon industry. We know what we do well and our dedication to improving our business helps us to maximize yours. Our aim is to focus on you, the stylist, helping expand your career and being your partner. Visit our website to learn more about our products and view our 2015 educational seminar schedule. #jointhemasterclass www.greatlengthscanada.com

MASTER

CLASS

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2015-01-28 12:05 PM


HAIRLINES COLOUR

Lights Down Low Knowing the best ways to incorporate lowlights can give your clients a colour boost while restoring that radient appeal. With the ombré trend (and its variations) continuing throughout spring and straight into summer, many of your clients will continue requesting highlights. But in order to create that natural look, one that’s complementary to your clients, you’ll need to combine lowlights, which are created when a darker colour is deposited on the hair. Here’s how two of the industry’s colour experts, Wella Professionals’ Jean-Sébastien Tremblay and Joico’s Sue Pemberton, breakdown the how, when and why of this often-overlooked colour technique.

CLIENT TYPE According to Tremblay, “Lowlights are the best service to bring back a balance of dark and light, depth and movement to the hair.” Lowlights can be used on any hair colour, but Pemberton says that it’s a preferred colour service for clients who like having darker pieces than their current hair colour. “I would suggest depositing darker colours in sections for any client who would like depth and dimension,” says Pemberton, adding that blondes in particular, can achieve a softer, more natural colour with lowlights.

COMPLEMENTARY COLOUR service, when it comes to lowlighting (and highlighting), this service can give a client a big boost. “Some clients like their hair

COLOUR CHALLENGE

to be lighter around their face while others prefer darker hair;

According to Pemberton, lighter blonde levels present a big challenge when

the tone of the colour can be placed to help achieve that look,”

working with lowlights. “Generally, going darker from a blonde means that

explains Pemberton.

you’ll need to add pigment that is lacking in the hair first, then apply the final

IN TRANSITION When it comes to already-highlighted hair, Tremblay reminds

colour,” explains Pemberton, who recommends using gold base colours to help tone the colour and reduce brassiness.

hairstylists to chose a shade that is in the same colour spectrum

For multi-dimensional hair colour, Pemberton suggests combining lowlight

as the hair’s base colour to achieve that soft transition, especially

and highlight colour services which will add more depth and flow. At the

for hair that has already been highlighted. “Lighter colour

same time, a good home care routine is important for colour maintenance.

should be on top of the hair, and darker colour should be on

“In many cases lowlights are done on porous hair, which will fade quickly,”

the perimeter,” explains Tremblay, “which means that lowlights

says Tremblay, “I recommend a good home care maintenance regimen, in

should be used underneath the hair.”

order to bring porosity to a lower level.”

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TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO, PHOTO: HAIR: CHRISTOPHE GAILLET, MAKEUP: IZABELA SZELAGOWSKA, STYLIST: ANNA CICHOSZ, PHOTO: WERONIKA KOSINKSKA

While skin tone and eye colour are big factors for every colour

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 5:06 PM


KEVINMURPHY.COM.AU

INTRODUCING UN.TANGLED, A RICH, LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER WITH A COMPLEX OF NOURISHING AUSTRALIAN FRUIT EXTRACTS HELPS TO DETANGLE, STRENGTHEN AND RESTORE HAIR, WITH ADDED HEAT PROTECTION. Image courtesy: Kevin.Murphy

www.internationalbeauty.ca

www.TBBS.ca

Alterna, Babe, Bioelements, DS Laboratories, Dannyco, Ego, Johnny B, Kasho, Kevin.Murphy, Logics, L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix, Neuma, One Styling, OPI, PureOlogy, Tressa, REDAVID, SpaRitual

Affinage, Alterna, Amika, Bosley Professional Strength, ISO, Johnny B, Joico, Kevin.Murphy, Mixed Chicks, Neuma, Saryna Key

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2015-01-28 12:23 PM


HAIRLINES NAILS

Spring Forward

3

Uses for the LCN Natural Nail Boost Gel

Your clients want their nails to look their best, so give them LCN Natural Nail Boost Gel to repair brittle nails and keep them strong.

OPI The perfect follow-up for a cold winter, the new spring-ready Hawaii collection, includes a sunny yellow, pretty pastels and a beachy turquoise.

1

Strengthen and grow nails Applied to clean, buffed nails without any bonder or

primer, the LCN Natural Nail Boost Gel can be used in any get stronger. The gel grows out with your client’s nails so they can keep it on as long as they need.

2

3

Provide a good base for their favourite shade

Stop nail-biters

For clients looking to move away

Since LCN Natural Nail Boost Gel makes tips stronger

from soak-off colours, this gel

and more resistant to breakage, it won’t be easy for your

provides a good base for regular

clients to bite them, hopefully weaning them off their nail-

nail polish, allowing it to last up to

biting habit.

14 days.

Mr. Grey Will See You Now

CUCCIO Taking inspiration from the brand’s California roots, Cuccio launches the Venice Beach collection, complete with bright pops of colour and sparkle.

CHINA GLAZE Clients bit by the travel bug will get a surge of wanderlust with the colourful 12-piece Road Trip collection.

ESSIE Get a soft, satiny finish with the new Cashmere Matte collection, which recalls soft sweaters, perfect for this transitional time of year.

On the heels of the success

sparkly, metallic and creamy

of the bestselling book

greys (sadly, not 50) alongside

series by E L James, OPI is

one velvety red hue that

launching the Fifty Shades

anchors the collection. The

of Grey nail polish collection

collection aims to capture

in anticipation of one of the

the passion from the love

biggest movie events of

story in the film while also

the year.

showcasing the dark but

The lineup includes six shades with a mixture of

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luxurious tone it sets, shown in the array of grey hues.

MORGAN TAYLOR Celebrating the live-action flick Cinderella, this fairy-tale collection is complete with a sparkly light blue, reminding us that shoes really can change your life.

ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN The Femme Florale collection is full of vibrant hues seen on springtime blooms.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, JILLIAN WOOD, PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: LCN, OPI, CUCCIO, CHINA GLAZE, PAUL C, MORGAN TAYLOR, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, UNIVERSAL PICTURES

UV lamp or LCN’s LED light to help protect nails as they

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-28 4:59 PM


YOUR GRANDMA’S

MOUSSE! VOLUME. HOLD. SHINE.

@UNITEHair

@UNITE.EUROTHERAPY

UNITE® PROFESSIONAL SALON SYSTEM

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@UNITE_Hair

888.95.UNITE WWW.UNITEHAIR.COM

2014-11-25 3:36 PM


HAIRLINES NAILS

HAND HEALTH Five ways to keep hands healthy and your clients happy.

Massage the CND Solar Oil into nails and cuticles to keep them soft and conditioned.

The SpaRitual Handprint Hand Serum hydrates and helps improve skin tone and texture with ginger root and pumpkin fruit extracts and licorice root.

Your clients come to you, their nail professional, to make sure that their nails are healthy and their manicures are pristine. But having healthy hands goes beyond buffing and filing. We spoke with Shel Pink, founder of SpaRitual, and Jennifer Mather, business development manager for CND and Revlon Professional Brands, for their health recommendations in and out of the salon.

1

Read the labels Using products that contain good-for-you ingredients

is as important for you, the nail artist or technician, as it is for your clients, so ensure that your salon is stocked with the best products for both the staff and clients. Pink explains that SpaRitual was founded with the mentality that nail artists and technicians are “on the first line to being exposed to products because they’re using them so much and can affect their health, so I wanted to develop a product that was healthy for them in a professional market.”

Using the SpaRitual Unveil Peel-Off Basecoat to make removing stubborn sparkly polishes much easier, without damaging the nail.

Do your research When searching for a brand to use in your salon,

understanding what each of the ingredients and products does is important because, as Pink explains, “If you’re using a healthier product, you’ll educate your client on it as well.”

4

Educate your clients Explaining to your client that external stressors like sun damage or

For SpaRitual, the Handprint Hand Serum uses licorice root to

manipulating the cuticle too much could affect their hand health or increase

brighten skin and pumpkin fruit extract to promote elasticity,

signs of aging without proper care is important to mention. Mather recommends

while the new CND RescueRXx uses a keratin protein to

explaining the three Cs—“care, condition and coat”—for at-home care in between

restore strength to brittle nails.

appointment. This means “conditioning the nails daily to increase flexibility and

3

prevent breakage, peeling and chipping, hydrating throughout the day to restore

Clip lightly You may know how to properly care for cuticles in

the salon, but your clients may not, so ensuring that they also know proper care is valuable. As Mather explains, “The skin

moisture lost from the skin, and coating nails to give them a bit of extra strength.”

5

Prescribe a treatment If your client has problems with chipping or peeling nails or has dark spots on

around the sides of the nails that we commonly refer to as

her hands from sun damage, you have the opportunity to provide her with advice

the cuticle is actually the eponychium, living tissue that should

on how to treat her concerns. Mather recommends enhancements for those who

remain uncut.” She suggests using a curette along with the

want the extra length or suggesting the long-lasting CND Shellac over Vinylux for

CND CuticleAway to gently remove the true cuticle, “the

those with weak nails. Sending clients off with at-home care products will ensure

nonliving tissue that looks dry and sticks to the nail plate,”

that they’re doing their part to keep their manicures looking fresh so they can get the

instead of scissors, to prevent cuts and possible infection.

most out of their appointments.

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TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS: CND, SPARITUAL

2

The new CND RescueRXx restores keratin to strengthen nails, while the jojoba and almond oils help keep them moisturized, reducing breakage.

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:37 PM


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2015-01-29 3:02 PM


HAIRLINES NAILS

Straight to the Top How did some of the industry’s lead nail artists get to the top of their game? We’ve tapped the pros to find out. Becoming the top of your class is no easy feat. Everyone has to start at the beginning, and that goes for Alisha Botero, executive vice-president and creative director for Artistic Nail Design, and Rita Remark, lead nail

Rita Remak, lead nail artis t for Essie Ca perfecting th nada, e art of the ba ckstage man icure.

artist for Essie Canada. Whether you’re starting at the bottom or hoping to take the next leap in your career, you’ll discover that even these pros had to start somewhere.

Take every experience as inspiration Whether you have just started your journey in the nail industry or have been working the tips for a few years now, both pros agree that each and every job is a learning point in your career. As Botero explains, “I may have had my hands in almost every role available in this industry, from nail technician to distributor sales rep, international platform artist/ trainer to product developer.” Each gig has brought her to where she is now, creating each and every Artistic Nail Design colour, while she contemplates upcoming trends. Remark, on the other hand, has made sure even her pre-manicure life was a learning experience, including her very first job on a farm, which “taught the definition of hard work.” taught [her] to work as a team,” which is one of the most important attributes in this industry.

Find a mentor and build your network

ic Nail director for Artist ident and creative res e-p vic ve uti ec rd World Tour. Alisha Botero, ex ucational Rock Ha Design, on the ed

There’s a reason they say “two heads are better than one,” and this rings

Focus and master your skill

true for being an aspiring nail tech, too. Find someone who inspires you

If you’re aiming to take your career to the next level, whether it’s going

and will help you grow in your career. while giving you the criticism and

solo, working backstage at fashion week or becoming an editorial nail

praise you need in the right way. “Starting out, make sure you surround

artist, you need to make sure you have the basics down to a science.

yourself with people who inspire and challenge you because they make

“Nail art skills are an asset, but understanding how to perform proper

all the difference,” says Remark. She explains that when she went

manicures and pedicures is a must,” explains Remark. And when it

on her own for the first time, it was her network of makeup artists,

comes to working backstage, this fashion week vet understands that

photographers and stylists that helped her learn the ropes in the industry,

“you must know how to polish very quickly with absolute precision.”

building her confidence along the way. When it comes to building this

For Botero, she turns to the old adage. “Practice, practice, practice” and

network though, attitude will get you everywhere. As Botero puts it, “I

suggests taking it one step at a time instead of focusing on mastering

can teach you to do nails, but I can’t teach you to be nice.”

several skills at once.

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TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS: ESSIE, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN

While working in the salon for several years “honed [her] skills and

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:37 PM


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HAIRLINES NEWS HOLD ON TIGHT Male clients get flexible hold with the new American Crew Liquid Wax, which allows them to restyle their hair without a sticky finish. americancrew.com

EDITOR’S PICKS From revitalizing hair to holding your client’s style in place, these six new launches do it all.

SALT SPRITZ Clients who crave loose, beachy waves will get on board with the new Scruples Texture Fix Sea Salt Spray Gel, which gives strands a loose, undone hold in just a few sprays. scrupleshaircare.com

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTO: PAUL C

SUSTAINABLY SLEEK Give hair a smooth, shiny and frizz-free finish with the latest offering from the sustainable brand Neuma: the NeuSmooth Finishing Polish. neumabeauty.com

AGE REWIND Offer brittle strands a dose of hydration to repair and revitalize hair with the Senscience Renewal Shampoo and AntiAging Moisturizing Treatment Masque. senscience.com

FRESHLY PICKED Soft pinks and neutral hues bring a burst of freshness to your client’s look with the Mirabella Wildflower collection for spring. mirabellabeauty.com

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CLEAN START Give hair a clean start with Pravana Nevo Detox Clarifying Shampoo, which removes residue buildup and gives hair a fresh canvas before a colour treatment. pravana.com salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-28 5:00 PM


TO THE RESCUE RescueRXx™ Daily Keratin Treatment, a revolution in nail repair from CND. With daily use, peeling and white spots are dramatically reduced.

Clinically-Proven Results: Week 1: 80% noticed improvements 80% saw less white spots Week 4 80% less peeling 73% less splitting

RescueRXx™ is a highly effective new treatment that repairs damaged nails with the power of Keratin protein and moisturizing jojoba oil. See a difference daily. cnd.com

@CNDCanada CND, RESCUERXX and the logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2015 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

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2015-01-28 12:19 PM


Create a Winning

Portfolio How to build your portfolio and get your career started on the right path. By Anna Lee Boschetto

W

hether you are a new hairstylist or have recently moved to a new city, finding the right salon can be a tricky situation. “You need to know what you want from

education, editorials, photo shoots or giving back to the community,” says Robert Barbosa, owner of Toronto’s Salon Escape. Before you land that interview, we culled together the best-kept secrets from salon owners across the nation that will help you to land (and keep) your dream job.

Matters of experience “In those first few years, you’ll probably be doing things you don’t like including cleaning the salon. Yet this is also the time where you’ll be building your client base, and once you do, you’ll eliminate those other tasks.”—Mireille Cormier, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. “We try to build the assistants we have with us. After two years, we’ll give them a time frame, have them invite friends and family in for services and take time to coach them. We also have Wacky Wednesdays, where we book most of the clients with junior stylists but the catch is that the client

When I was 18 years old, I worked in a salon in France sweeping floors. I had been there a few weeks and was tired of sweeping because that’s not what I came to the salon to do and I was told, once I had perfected the task of sweeping and was the best I could be at it, only then would I move on to hair; that type of discipline applies to every area of your life. — Stephan W., Montreal

has no say in terms of the style or cut. By doing this, we help the hairstylists build their portfolio, and create different looks and it forces more junior stylists to consider different ideas for haircuts, and delve into those ideas.” —Stephan W., Montreal

Transferable skills “Creativity is important, yet you need to be able to fit into a structured salon environment, it’s a fair environment, but fitting into it by being flexible is key.”—Stephan W., Montreal “Being well spoken; which means you can speak clearly and concisely. And you also have to be confident. No matter what your experience, you need to believe in your abilities”—Michael Levine, owner of A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver

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PHOTOS: HAIR: KEN PICTON, KEN PICTON SALON, CARDIFF, U.K. USING L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, COLOUR: PAUL DENNISON, NICOLA STEVENS WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, MAKEUP: NAOKO SCINTU, STYLING: DESIREE LEDERER, PHOTOS: ANDREW O’TOOLE

your career and see if the salon offers those opportunities, whether that’s

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:38 PM


“Especially in the beginning, nobody likes a know-it-all. As hairstylists, we must continue to learn until the day we are no longer stylists. It’s important to have a positive attitude so that you can absorb information and deal with clients.” —Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto

Keep It Simple “The younger you are, the more you want to show, but sometimes you don’t need to have a lot of technique in there, you should focus each look specifically on what you want someone to see.”—Stephan W., Montreal “Clean work, not the crazy stuff. Sensible work. I want to see that you’re capable, which means you must also be able to show that you can finish a cut beautifully.” —Michael Levine, owner of A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver “Showing education is the key. Images of blowouts, styling and colouring will give someone a feel for what level you are at. It’s good to be eager, but you must focus on where you want to be without being scattered.”—Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto

Be open to opportunity “Every manufacturer has a contest, so when stylists decide to enter, there’s really an opportunity to perform. This is also a great way to be inspired by mentors.“ —Stephan W., Montreal “We give prospective hairstylists a trial day and see what they will do when they're not given any direction. We like to back off and see if people are self-starters. If you find things to do when there’s nothing to do, that’s key.” —Michael Levine, A Michael Levine, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver

Attitude Shift “Discipline. There are two parts in our job: the technical part, and the part about showing up and early being well-dressed and prepared to work hard. You need to show that you’re willing to go the next step by showing interest, whether you want to do cutting or colouring. It all comes down to discipline.”—Stephan W., Montreal “There’s so much competition out there, you need be a go-getter to stand out above the rest. You have to go above and beyond which may mean working late nights and always means putting the client first.”—Mireille Cormier, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton N.B. salonmagazine.ca

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Consistency is key. You are only as good as your last haircut. –Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto

march.15

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Boost Your Career Creativity Opportunities are endless when you think outside the salon.

By Anna Lee Boschetto and Yasmin Grothé

rom platform artists to editorial

F

Best Advice: Companies are looking for

photo shoots, there are plenty of

education professionals at different levels. For

Richie Rich and Traver Rains from the fashion

unique opportunities for beauty

people at an entry level, it’s basically, a territory

label Heatherette. Initially, I brought the Moods

professionals. According to the industry pros

that you are responsible for. You may be on

salon team backstage to do the Heatherette

we spoke with, embracing a new experience

stage but, more likely, you may be in a salon

runway show in Vancouver and they loved

will not only help you boost your creativity and

and get started that way.

our team so much, they wanted me to work

refine your technical skills, but you'll also find

Skill Set: Communication skills are key

with them at their New York City show. My

more enjoyment when you step back behind

because you really don’t realize the benefits

the chair.

of what you’re learning without the proper

Products are key too ls for Taylor when prepping models at fash ionweek.

online for better ways to say things, and I think

New York and Paris.

that’s really the most powerful thing.

Best Advice: In the past few years, more and more hair brands are sponsoring the teams

RUNWAY READY

Creative director for North America for Schwarzkopf Professional

that are doing hair for the runway shows. Many of the brands run competitions to help out

CHAD TAYLOR

backstage at shows. This is a great way to get

hairstyling skills. Being in a salon is one thing,

Runway hairstylist at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York and Paris Fashion Weeks, owner of Moods Hair Salon in Vancouver

but it’s pretty fantastic to see some of the best

Getting Started: While working backstage

in the world.

on MTV Canada, I was very fortunate to meet

Getting Started: For me, it happened at a very early stage in my career. Meeting different people at different levels give you the opportunity to learn and see some intense

Marie-Josée Trempe, founder and owner of Specs model and talent agency in Montreal, shares her top tips on how to supercharge your solo career. 52

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1

2

some initial experience and see how it works backstage. Attitude Counts: For your first few seasons, be prepared to not touch hair and to only help out with handing pins, etc. Smaller shows are a great way to enter the circuit and still be doing hair. Being

Inspirational:

Runway

hairstyles

are created with a priority to showcase

Sephora and volunteer

3

your skills. It’s

professional work. “When

important to give some

I see hair or makeup

of your time if you want

that’s not up to industry

to perfect your craft with

standards, even if it was

established names in the

early in someone’s career,

ask instructors to put you

business by doing test

I will hesitate before hiring

in contact, if needed.

photo shoots.

this talent,” says Trempe.

Get to know emerging photographers and ask if you can help out with hair, makeup or nails on photo shoots. Visit schools and

Visit makeup counters including M.A.C. and

Use social media to showcase your best, most

t

FREELANCE 101

and other teams for the past decade in both

t

DAMIEN CARNEY

Laurent Philippon and have worked with him

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPT PROFESSIONAL, CHAD TAYLOR

language, tone and dialogue. You can look

BECOMING AN ARTIST

business partner and I met lead hairstylist

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:41 PM


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SHARE YOUR PASSION. ELEVATE YOUR CRAFT. Develop new skills and inspire others by becoming an educator with the Aveda Institute. Join a team of talented stylists who coach, motivate and inspire the next generation. Interested in learning more?

Visit teachaveda.com or call 1-877-90AVEDA

2015-01-28 12:22 PM


the clothing, so the inspiration starts with trend

Personality Type: You need to be flexible. You can

forecasters, the designers wardrobe stylists and

go on a set for a clothing ad and you might have a

labels. Then it's up to the hairstylist to bring these

great idea of what you would like to do with the hair

ideas together to create the look.

but the photographer and art director have different

Skill Set: Blow-drying, upstyling, curling irons, finger

ideas, so you have to collaborate with the team to

waves and braiding are all things that will be used

get what they want. You have to be willing to share

backstage. Product is also used as a tool and is layered

and be open and easy to work with.

to create finishes, from high gloss to matte to done

Advanced Learning: You get gratification from

to undone. Know your products and what they can

seeing your work in a magazine, and it’s a sense

achieve.

of accomplishment. One day you can be in SoHo working in a really unique warehouse, and it’s

PICTURE PERFECT

inspiring to be in a new space every day. Every time I work with a new photographer, I learn something

JENNIFER MACDOUGALL

Her refined skills have afforded Gushue many opportunities on and off camera.

different, whether it’s about the lighting or model. When I worked with Annie Leibovitz, I couldn’t

Editorial hairstylist with Vanity Fair, Elle Canada, Marie Claire and Vogue

believe the process, the setup, and the number of people, and then the next day I was working with a

and the portfolio you have is everything. For larger editorial publications, you need to be represented by

new photographer on a different project.

ON-SET PRODUCTION CHERYL GUSHUE

an agency, which offers you added credibility. Best Advice: When you are working in editorial [or

Makeup artist and beauty expert on CBC’s Steven and Chris

commercial] every day, you’re doing a shoot with different photographers, makeup artists, and it’s not always about the models' hair. It may be about the clothes or makeup. You need to know when to push

Getting Started: I have a background in fashion design, but my

and when to pull back.

training as a makeup artist started with the makeup counter,

PHOTOS COURTESY OF JENNIFER MACDOUGALL, CHERYL GUSHUE

Getting Started: How you represent yourself online

and from there I worked in the salon environment. For me, it’s From one shoot to the next, MacDougall is inspired by working on different projects.

all about the artistry. Best Advice: Get yourself out there, promote yourself with social media or cold calling, and create opportunities for yourself. Develop your skill level by going on different gigs, connect with a mentor and be on set with them and in many cases volunteer your time. Personality Matters: Never think that you know it all. We are always learning, and the industry is always changing. As a makeup artist you always have to be on-trend, know what’s going on and what's ahead. Skill Set: Your artistry skills need to be very sharp, and you need to be at a high level to succeed. Also, the more adaptable and ready you are to take on a challenge, the better off you are.

4

5

Working part-time in a salon will help you become a better

hairstylist and makeuip artist while allowing your

S

6

relocate. Trempe emphasizes this especially if you’re living in a small

Choose whom you want to work with

to pursue freelance jobs, on

carefully. Roll up your sleeves and

the side. “You don’t become

trying to establish

leave your ego at the door. You might

an outstanding hairstylist

yourself you’ll

end up working with a top-notch

overnight, so be sure you’re

likely need to move

international team down the road.

honing your skills on a daily

to a larger city.

basis,” says Trempe.

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7

Be willing to

town and you’re

Competition Power. Even if you’re starting out, Trempe suggests beauty professionals be open to entering competitions. Let’s spell it out for you: C-O-N-T-E-S-S-A.

salonmagazine.ca

2015-03-11 3:27 PM


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2015-01-29 5:45 PM


The

Thinning Truth It’s the most dramatic issue for men and women when it comes to hair, and one that clients are not comfortable addressing either. But as these experts tell, tackling the issue of hair loss should be part of every consultation. You’re welcome. By Yasmin Grothé

F

A QUESTION OF IMAGE problem

Dr. Stephen Franzoi, a professor of psychology at Marquette University in

becomes glaringly visible as early

Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and a specialist in the psychology of appearance,

as their 20s. And for women, the

says hair loss has a huge impact on self-confidence and recommends

issue of thinning hair can start in their mid-

that hairstylists build relationships with clients to address thinning hair

or

some

men,

the

30s—yes, when all those wonderful hormonal changes begin. “It makes sense that if your hormone levels are shifting, it also affects hair, much like the

concerns. Here are a few things Dr. Franzoi suggests to keep in mind when speaking with your clients.

aging process influences your skin. Hair and

Show you care

Dispel the myth

skin cells are the ones that regenerate the

“About 70 per cent of men and 90 per

“Because it’s considered by most people

fastest in the body, so that’s where you are

cent of women who have hair loss

to be a male problem, women with

likely to see changes first,” says Michelle

consider it a problem affecting their self-

thinning hair think that they’re alone,”

Blaisure, a seasoned trichologist and director

confidence,” says Dr. Franzoi.

he says. “They think that they are the

scalp and hair care brand. “With women, we talk about obtaining shine and volume but those words don’t appeal to men,” says Blaisure. Instead, using analogies that men can relate to during your consultation, such as option.

56

t

anti-aging and full and healthy hair is a good

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Be approachable “Hairstylists need to create a warm,

only one suffering from this. They’re embarrassed.”

safe environment where clients can ask some questions and the hairstylist can actively listen to what they are saying,” explains Dr. Franzoi.

PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

of education at Bosley, a professional-strength

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-28 5:09 PM


“i love your hair,� says everyone.

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2014-11-25 3:40 PM


Tackling the topic Of course, if you already have a good relationship with the client, you know how far you can go in terms of suggesting systems and specific products. But it’s essential to get

Root of the MATTER From diet to genetics, Jean-Sébastien Tremblay and Michelle Blaisure offer up their insight on some of the causes of hair loss.

the conversation going. “Opening up the topic

GENETIC PREDISPOSITION

good for keeping moisture in the skin, nails

of hair loss also shows your client you are

If it’s a man, 90 per cent of the time it’s

and hair, says Blaisure. "As prevention, if

paying attention to his or her specific needs. If

inherited male pattern baldness. "We used

you’re stressed, get more vitamins B and

you notice less density on the scalp, you have

to think that the responsible gene was

D as well."

to bring it up. It shows the client you are the

handed down by the mother, but studies

hair specialist they trust,” says Jean-Sébastien

have now proven otherwise," says Blaisure.

HEALTH

Tremblay, field education capability master for

If it’s a woman, some of that hair loss can

Nioxin Canada.

be inherited as well.

Solution oriented

STRESS

can cause hair loss in some women,"

Major life changes, such as losing your

cautions Blaisure.

job, divorce and mourning can manifest in

MEDICATION

“One of the most enduring—and erroneous— myths is that washing your hair every day is damaging. But when hair loss occurs, you need to make sure the scalp is as clean as

Hormonal changes such as pregnancy and menopause affect hair loss. "An underactive thyroid and low levels of iron

hairloss.

According to some studies done by Nioxin, some drugs (such as antidepressants) have

possible because it’s an extension of the skin

DIET Yes, eating junk even has negative

secondary effects on hair’s overall health

on the face. You certainly want to avoid sebum

repercussions on the health and quality of

and thickness.

and grime accumulating because it creates a

your hair, "because hair gets its nutrients

toxic environment and clogs follicles, which in

from blood," says Tremblay. As well, super-

ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE

turn compromises the growth of healthy hair,”

restrictive low-cal diets can take their toll.

says Tremblay.

"It’s a good idea to take multivitamins,

Enriched with niacinamide, panthenol and

UV rays, pollution, too much chlorine and even hard water can be an issue.

which contain healthy fatty acids that are

caffeine, Diamax, Nioxin’s newest product, is proven to boost existing hair diameter instantly, making it manageable and full while thickening existing hair at the roots. “It’s, literally as if you

To create the illusion of thickness, colour the roots a darker tone with paler

had up to 11,000 more hair strands,” specifies

ends. The trick is to not let the light pass through, as it reveals lighter hair density

Tremblay. The brand has also created two types

on the scalp. I recommend using demi-permanent shades since thinning hair is

of treatment systems designed for normal to thin-looking hair and noticeably thinning hair. In order to work at their peak efficiency, the

more fragile and porous, and use a-low level developer as well. — Jean Sébastien-Tremblay

products must be used every day. “The systems work as long as you use them correctly,” says Blaisure. “Our Bos Defense 3 part kit is for early stages of hair loss and prevention and Bos-Revive is for noticeably thinning hair and excessive hair loss. Both contain our advanced technology called LIfeXtend Complex which is a triad of ingredients such as natural proteins that give thickness and volume, plant based ingredients that help produce better quality hair and ocean marine extracts to help inhibit the effects of DHT in the follicle, a known cause of hair loss.”

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LOSING 1 IT 2 Here are the top five signs your client is suffering from hair loss.

Dry, greasy or itchy scalp

(by the way, it’s normal for

and dandruff.

everyone to lose about 100

Noticeably thinner hair strands because the

diameter of the hair shaft is shrinking.

3

Client says bigger clumps of hair appear in

hair strands a day).

4 5

A wider parting or thinning crown. Hair feels limp and shows less body and bounce.

the shower after shampooing

S

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:42 PM


©2015 DISNEY

LIVE LIKE THERE’S NO MIDNIGHT

© 2015 Hand & Nail Harmony, Inc.

HM-3869

IF THE SLIPPER FITS

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ELLA OF A GIRL WATCH YOUR STEP, SISTER!

PARTY AT THE PALACE MY CARRIAGE AWAITS

2015-01-28 12:18 PM


Hair: Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson Hair and Beauty, London Assistant: Nicola Hand Makeup: Margaret Aston Styling: Leticia Dare Photos: Andrew O’Toole

Hair: Winner, North American Hairstyling Awards 2014, Hairstylist of the Year, Alain Pereque, Saco Salon Drummond, Montreal Makeup: Sevan Tatoulian Styling: Nancy Richard Photos: John Rawson

Crisp colours and a striking balance between whippedup volume and sleek tresses dominate this NAHA 2014 Hairstylist of the Year winning collection.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-28 5:11 PM


Bright and muted, natural and high fashion, this collection, called Juxtaposition is all about finding equilibrium.

BALANCING ACT salonmagazine.ca

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soft focus

Blurred colours marry with effortless styling for a modern take on a ’60s vibe.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Hair: Darren Ambrose Colour: Abby Smith, D&J Ambrose, Middlesex, U.K. Styling: Jackie Ambrose and Abby Smith Photos: Gabor Szantai

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Mixing textures and colours—from soft pastels to dark shadows to glossy metallics— Goldwell’s latest Color Zoom collection inspires a wave of creative vision.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Photos courtesy of Goldwell

mixed

media salonmagazine.ca

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Pure, lustrous pigments and structured yet undone cuts lend themselves to the spring/summer 2015 TrendVision collection, Journey of Enlightenment, for Wella Professionals.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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White

Light

Photos courtesy of Wella Professionals

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Grunge meets soft and femme in a way that reminds us of styles from across the pond.

Finalist, Contessa 26 Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year: Domenico Tomei, Fernando Cellini Hair Salon, Ottawa, Ont. Makeup: Miranda Augusta Styling: Jeff Newsom Photos: Alex Barron-Hough

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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L O N D O N

calling salonmagazine.ca

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Finalist, Contessa 26 Alberta Hairstylist of the Year: Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Makeup: Kim Desautels Styling: Mia Fiddas Photos: Kale Friesen

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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as t e e w s candy salonmagazine.ca

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Sugary confections are recalled with sophisticated high-gloss shine in this colourful collection.

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Finalist, Contessa 26 Canadian Colourist of the Year: Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Makeup: Timothy Hung Styling: Sonia Capriceru Photos: Matthew Burditt

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Vibrant pigments paired with attainable styles make this colour collection pop.

Birds of Paradise salonmagazine.ca

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Finalist, Contessa 26 Canadian Salon Team of the Year: Salon Pure, Montreal Makeup: Ekaterina Ulyanoff Photos: Ara Sassoonian

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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y a w a fly High and lowlights mixed with plaits and weightless pieces play with texture for a soft and effortless appeal.

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Hairstyling and colour: Matt Waldron, Salon Panache, Montreal Makeup: Threcia Joy Styling: Luc Nowlan Photos: Johan Jansson

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Enchanted Soft styles bring a sense of oldworld magic to this intensely romantic session collection.

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Finalist, Contessa 26 Canadian Salon Team of the Year, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Makeup & Nails: Noelle Hill Styling: Blunt Salon Inc. Photos: Ara Sassoonian

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Choppy, piecey and angular, this collection takes shape in a dark and powerful way.

STRUCTURED appeal salonmagazine.ca

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new HEIGHTS Light-as-air fluffy curls make for a soft and whipped-up style.

Finalist, Contessa 26 Session Hairstylist of the Year: Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto Makeup: Lucky Bromhead Photos: Wade Hudson

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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2015-01-28 6:04 PM


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Finalist, Contessa 26 Canadian Colourist of the Year: Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Makeup: Brandy Dogan Styling: Julie Vriesinga Photos: Paula Tizzard

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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CONTESSA GALLERY

Contessa 26 Finalist, British Columbia Hairstylist of the Year

Getting her start in the hairstyling business at a young age, the multiple Contessa winner and finalist balances her time between the salon and editorial and creative shoots.

1

WELLA PROFESSIONALS EXTRA VOLUME STYLING MOUSSE

Alina Friesen Sometimes putting together a collection

let’s shoot this weekend.’” For Alina, this

is all about experimenting and letting the

collection came together on three different

creative juices flow. For Alina, her collection,

days, just playing with different textures and

which plays with dark and light and different

levels of volume, but after all the shots were

textures, came from wanting to try

taken, she realized there was a real collection

something different on the weekend.

worth submitting.

Weekend play

Balancing act

“Being married to a photographer [Kale

For this look, Alina created juxtaposition

Friesen], we do creative shoots all the time,

between textures and length, aiming for

so I’ll say, ‘I want to try this really great look;

something that was sculpted but not too stiff and getting inspired by runway shows and fashion shoots. “I wanted to create a bit of

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This luxe oil helped add shine to the look, while creating definition in the shape of the hair.

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This spray fixed all of the detail work into place, from the crimped pieces to the voluminous curls.

moulding in the hair, where the volume was at the top, with length at the back.” To achieve this, she looked to different ways to secure the style, using bobby pins to help create the shape and a crimping tool to create that dimension and texture in the hair itself. Reaching to runway shows for inspiration, like the 1998 Alexander McQueen show, which incorporated both length and texture, Friesen explains, “my look developed from there.”

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4

UNITE PRO-SYSTEM CRIMPER

Alina used a crimping tool to add dimension and help her mix textures.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, HAIR: ALINA FRIESEN, A MICHAEL LEVINE SALON GROUP, MAKEUP: KIM DESAUTELS & JENA JACQUOT, PHOTO: KALE FRIESEN, KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

Alina turned to this mousse to get volume and hold while allowing her to manipulate the hair when it was dry.

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:45 PM


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r a l l e St s e v o M SALON PROFILE

tive is one crea n o r ld a W Matt rtfolio se: new po ssionnel, u o h r e w o p fe ’Oréal Pro ortlisted artist for L sh , of a salon w on the r e n w o o c o ssa, and n for a Conte king onto the web. rea verge of b Grothé By Yasmin

MW: You get to work with the cream of the

SM: You’ve been a Contessa finalist a few

crop, and that’s just huge! These artists’

times. What do you enjoy about competing?

crazy creativity rubs off on you, and it’s so

MW: It allows me to work with unconventional

stimulating!

colours. I have more freedom to express my

Salon

creativity than I do in the salon. The only limits

Magazine: You

SM: What inspires you and where do you find

I set are my own. In the end, it’s also good for

are only 32 and

your ideas?

the clients since it’s a creative outlet where I

have already

MW: I consume a huge amount of magazines

can test things out.

achieved great

—media in general-—online and offline. The

milestones. How

street also inspires me. When you have so

SM: Your salon, Panache, doubled its space

did you get there

many influences, you get inspired but never

just one year after it opened. How do

so quickly?

copy. I store a tremendous amount of photos

you successfully build a business in a flat

Matt Waldron: I’ve been working in the

on my phone and make virtual mood boards

economy?

industry for 14 years and I was able to achieve

a few times a year. I also work with a few

MW: My business partner, Frédérick Russo,

some important goals at a very early stage.

photographers on personal projects and the

and I are constantly evaluating our return

But I’ve also worked like crazy to get there!

whole team pitches in to bring new ideas to

on investment. For instance, we will now

I was part of a big salon [Mood by Pure, in

create something fresh that’s a pure exercise

be adding Botox and dermal filler services

Montreal], did competitions, worked as an

in creativity. The creativity is free-flowing

(under the supervision of a registered nurse)

educator and opened Panache, three years

because we're not trying to please anyone.

to our menu the days our aesthetician is

Russo. Now I want to focus on sharpening my creativity to bring my team to a higher level. I’m starting training as a makeup artist because people in this industry want to hire

not in. And after the Christmas holidays, we SM: What keeps you motivated behind

reopen the first full week in January, because

the chair?

the cost would surpass the income during

MW: Working with trends and being able

those slow days.

to adapt them. Even if the client is not interested in a brand new look at every

SM: What's next for you?

booking, I mesh in the changes gradually.

MW: In March, I will start vlogging and

When you have tools like smartphones and

have my own Youtube channel to share my

SM: You’re part of the L’Oréal Professionnel

tablets, you can immediately show the client

hairstyling and colouring expertise online.

roster of artists in Canada. What are the

what you have in mind. Technology has

L’Oréal Professionnel has given me this great

advantages of partnering with a big brand?

changed the way you approach a new idea

opportunity. It’s a very exciting time in my

with your client in the salon.

career right now!

beauty professionals on photo shoots who are skilled at both hairstyling and makeup.

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S

PHOTOS COURTESY SALON PANACHE

ago with my business partner, Frédérick

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SALON BUSINESS

Multi-Generational Managment Yes, it’s true: Baby boomers, Gen-Xers and Millennials are motivated differently—after all, they are from different generations. But that doesn’t mean they can’t all work together in harmony.

while millennials can bring more current influences. It’s very easy for employees to become confrontational when there is too much focus on generational differences. Working together on creative projects, helps overcome differences and encourage a more harmonious environment.

The dreaded discipline It’s a fact: Younger employees who grew up with the Internet and probably saw their parents work remotely want a very flexible schedule. “I give them time slots and they can pick from those, but they have to stick to that schedule once they choose it. I’m a little bit more flexible if employees are working on TV shows or something related to the business outside the salon, but they still need to be accountable,” says Pacitto. You need control if you want to manage your salon successfully. And, in the end, if your stylists don’t do their hours, they won’t see their pay cheques increase. Stylists who make the most money are usually the ones who spend the most time in the salon. Just by being available at the front

Managing staff is challenging enough. So

involved in photo shoots and whatever we’re

of the salon, they can add extra clients to their

what do you do when you're working diverse

doing creatively. It feeds them and fuels

schedule. “Never underestimate the number of

age groups with different goals and concepts

ideas too, in return. We look at anything there

walk-ins,” reminds Pacitto.

of what it means to be successful? “You need

is a need for and create a workshop where

to identify what motivates each individual

everyone can learn and further their skills.”

and adapt your management style to their

Embrace differences

a management consultant and president of Archétypes-Inter, a consultation firm that specializes in mediation and management for companies employing diverse groups of people. “But you really have to make sure you’re being fair by offering all your staff the same options.”

Having a diverse group is enriching for any

Who Are They and What Makes Them Tick?

business but particularly for a salon, where

The Millennials (or Generation Y)

creativity and skill go hand in hand. “Give

Born between 1981 and 2000: Tech-savvy,

your younger staff the possibility to get

reward-driven and independent. Looking for

involved by presenting them a goal that they

work-life balance and want to be treated as

can reach,” says Pacitto. “Start by having your

equals from day one on the job.

younger stylists shadow senior talents to develop their skills.” And in return, millennials

Gen-Xers (Generation X)

Cultivate creativity

can show your older stylists how to harness

Born between 1965 and 1980: Idealists and

The advantage? A diverse group means

the power of social media and publicize the

individualists who enjoy a good challenge.

more viewpoints and expanded creativity,

work they’ve mastered over the years, which

Adaptable, resourceful and the least

which is a godsend in the salon business.

will help your salon get more clout.

demanding of the groups because they’ve

Anna Pacitto, co-owner of a group that runs

Take a team approach

35 salons (including Montreal’s Pure Salon) and an academy, says involving millennials from day one definitely creates a strong team environment. “We always have our younger staff

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faced many career challenges.

Honour each employee’s contribution,

Boomers (Baby boomers)

particularly when you’re working as a team,

Born between 1946 and 1964: Career-driven,

when putting together a Contessa collection.

value stability and respect hierarchy. They

Encourage seniors to show young stylists

work best with clearly stated goals and tasks.

proven ways to properly finish a hairstyle,

TEXT :YASMIN GROTHÉ PHOTO: THINKSTOCK

interests and personality,” says Lucie Houde,

S

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2015-01-29 5:18 PM


E H T N I T GE E M A G

Give your favourite beauty product

a jump on the competition by voting in the Salon Magazine Reader’s Choice Awards!

year’s is h t o t tickets o w t in W O , 2015, T 8 E r C e N b A m H e YOUR C aY, Nov ! VOTE FOR ssa Gala on Sund tions in Toronto Conte commoda c a t h ig n r plus ove

VOTING BEGINS APRIL 1 AT

READERSCHOICE.SALONMAGAZINE.CA

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, except residents of Quebec, who are of age of majority at time of entry in province/ territory of residence. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on April 1, 2015, and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 15, 2015 ( “Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 21, 2015, in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2015 Contessa Gala, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto in a double occupancy room, approximate retail value CDN $600. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.

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Details Opened in 1994, moved to new location in 2014

Brands Goldwell KMS California

Design: J.W. Design based on Kao’s global standard, with local implementation and adaptation

Website ca.goldwell.com/ education

Space: Approximately 10,000 square feet

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PHOTOS: ALEXANDRE LEGAULT

SALON INTERIORS

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2015-01-28 5:44 PM


Back to School Goldwell and KMS’s new Academy is your go-to learning destination for brushing up on your skills at every level. By Ashley Kowalewski

C

ontinuing education is an important aspect of every hairstylist’s journey, and having a state-of-the-art academy to attend is just what stylists will get at the new Goldwell/ KMS Academy Toronto, which is bigger and better than ever. Kathy Reilly, national

education manager for Kao Canada Inc., explains that when they had the opportunity to combine the brand’s headquarters and create a new 10,000-square-foot space specifically for education, they jumped at the chance. When moving this academy from the old location down the road, Reilly explained the inspiration for the design was all about comfort:“We wanted stylists to feel comfortable and inspired to learn, not come into a very clinical classroom environment.” When creating the design, they implemented the “80-20 rule,” with “80 per cent global standard and 20 per cent local implementation and adaptation,” and added a“Canadian touch” with elements like a feature fireplace in the lounge and café area while maintaining a bright and open concept. Materials like Nuvacor and porcelain tile were part of this global standardization (much like the curriculum and programs available), making surfaces easy to clean and withstand staining from the Goldwell colour products. The facility offers 66 programs that are rotated throughout the year, ranging from cutting and styling with KMS California products to getting a “PhD in Goldwell hair colour,” along with business building, and seminars with guest artists like Nick Arrojo, and for the Color Zoom competition. The academy houses three classrooms that are used for both the theory and hands-on programs and boast smart technology systems and movable stylist stations, allowing the rooms to be transformed for events, photo shoots and presentations.

S

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca salonmagazine.ca

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800-720-6665

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Malibu C pg 35

800-622-7332

www.malibuc.com/cpr

Matrix Style Link pg 6-7

888-935-1885

www.stylelink.matrixcanada.ca

Miracurl SteamTech pg 27

800-726-6247

www.dannyco.com

OPI Hawaii Collection pg 13

800-341-9999

www.opi.com

Paul Mitchell 35th Anniversary pg 10-11

800-793-8790

www.paulmitchell.com

Pravana ChromaSilk pg 31

866-883-7094

www.pravana.com

Phone _________________________________________

o Please email the weekly salonmagazine.ca newsletter o Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? o Salon o Spa o School o Manufacturer o Distributor o Franchise o Home Based o Freelance o One of multiple locations with the same owner o Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ________________________

Reader’s Choice Awards 2015 pg 89

What services are provided? o Hair Care o Skin Care o Nail Care o Hair Removal o Spa Treatments o Tanning o Other (specify) What do you do? o Co-owner o Owner o Manager o Hairstylist o Nail Technician o Electrologist o Colourist o Esthetician o Laser Technician o Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432 MAIL FORM TO:SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0 or subscribe online at salonmagazine.ca

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Redken Canadian RFM Collection pg 17

866-973-3536

www.redken.ca

Revlon Professional StyleMasters pg 25

800-387-7980

Rusk Deepshine Direct pg 29

800-726-6247

www.rusk1.com

SpaRitual Spring 2015 Collection pg 81

877-SPA-RITUAL

www.sparitual.com

UNITE Elevate Mousse pg 43

888-95UNITE

www.unitehair.com

Unwash Bio-Cleansing Conditioner pg 45

866-997-9728

www.modernbeauty.ca

Wella Professionals pg 15

800-41-WELLA

www.wella.com

Wella Professionals Elements pg 33

800-41-WELLA

www.wella.com

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 24 Issue 03 salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 5:55 PM


SALON EVENTS

Canada’s own Emily Patrick Cameron hosted the evening and created a formal hair segment with princess-worthy ballgowns and updos.

Murphy and Fernando Monge represented Canada at the event in the Color and Young

Josh Wood discussed

Talent categories,

tailor-made colour for

respectively.

high-end clients in “The Art of Couture Color” presentation. Eugene Souleiman presented a retrospective of his best runway hairstyles and shared insights from his experiences backstage at Fashion Michael Polsinelli

Wella Professionals International Trend Vision Awards November 23, Monaco

Week. Paul Serville,

The 12th annual Wella Professionals International TrendVision

Wella’s new global

Awards (ITVA) hosted 60 stylists from 35 countries at the global

and Shay Dempsey

business ambassador,

hairdressing event in glamorous Monaco. This year, the show

showcased Sebastian

gave advice on how

Professional’s dramatic

was broadcast live for viewers around the globe, who were also

salons can use the

Eclipse Art collection

able to vote live for a People’s Choice winner in each category!

power of influence

to close the show.

to grow their business.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Akin Konizi and the HOB creative team shared the first look at Wella’s upcoming SS15 Journey of Enlightenment collection, while Cyrill Brune interpreted the AW15 Uncharted Territory styles.

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SALON EVENTS

World MasterCard Fashion Week

LOCATE A DOCTOR YOU TRUST ON

October 20-25, Toronto

Spring was already in full swing at David Pecaut Square, where Jorge Joao, lead artist for Redken Canada, and Rita Remark, lead nail artist for Essie Canada, and their teams dominated the runway styles, showing off colour and no shortage of texture. PHOTOS COURTESY OF REDKEN CANADA AND ESSIE CANADA

ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

At Hayley Elsaesser, it was all sparkle and shine. Joao explained,

FROM REPUTABLE COSMETIC SURGEONS, DENTISTS AND DERMATOLOGISTS WE HELP YOU FIND AN EXPERT YOU’LL LOVE.

"[Hayley] wanted something a bit futuristic, so we looked for a way to make [the sparkle] It was loose

happen. If we were

waves and

going to be loud

undone styles

with the sparkle

bringing soft

and the metallic,

texture to many

we didn't want the

of the shows,

hairstyle to be too

including

loud. We went for

Rachel Sin and

a strong, polished

Mackage, with

look."

a '70s glam vibe at Pink Tartan.

Fabric woven into a high top knot added dimension and texture to this classic style seen at Elan+Castor.. There was a serious jolt of colour, with

THE

BEAUTY

FINDER FIND DOCTORS AND PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE PRODUCTS ACROSS CANADA!

different shades of teal offset by a chrome accent nail at Mélissa Nepton as Remark played with a new take on the ombré mani.

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DROP DEAD GORGEOUS HAIR See the latest in hairstyles from the planet’s top stylists and premiere salons.

Alternative Hair Show 2014 What: The evening began with a welcome address from founder Tony Rizzo and worldwide president Anthony Mascolo before the 32 International Visionary Awards finalists presented their fantastical looks for the judges. Who: Contessa winner Tony Ricci represented Canada as a finalist, but first place for Cut and Colour went to Rossa Danagher (Ireland) and runner-up went to Anteo Geminiani (Italy). In the Avant Garde category, Pawel Babicz (Poland) took home first place and Richi Grisillo (Australia) was the runner-up. Highlights: The cutting-edge stage presentations by creative hairdressing forces from around the world (including Sassoon, Toni&Guy, Mahogany, Paul Mitchell, Saco, eSalon, the TIGI International Creative Team and Sanrizz) were based on the show's theme, equilibrium. When and where: October 12 in London PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALEX BARRON HOUGH, TIGI BED HEAD STUDIO

A new issue every month

• full-page photos • behind-the-scenes secrets • audio interviews Download today for free at SalonMagazine.ca/Salon-Lookbook

salonmagazine.ca

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PROMOTION

styleexchange

Connect with professional salon products and services.

SALON SCOOP

1

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888-552-3668 www.kqcbeauty.com

LCN Canada has received the award for the highest sales for a light-cured product for the fourth year in a row from the brand’s annual export meeting in Germany.

2 COLOUR EXPERT Hot off the heels of her Master

Colourist of the Year win at the 26th Contessa Awards, Rossa Jurenas has just been appointed as the new North American color director for Schwarzkopf Professional. Her creative vision and mastery of her craft bring her to the next level of her career as she will help to expand the brand’s colour division for education, sales and marketing.

3

Presidential election

Starting off the new year with a fresh new face, Unite Hair has announced the appointment of their new president, Jared

BRANCH OUT For over 20 years, Tree Canada has engaged communities, governments, corporations, and individuals in the pursuit of a greener and healthier living environment for Canadians. We provide Canadians with education, technical expertise, and resources to plant and care for urban and rural trees, planting nearly 80 million trees and greening more than 550 schoolyards across the country. Help plant our urban forests!

613.567.5545 www.treecanada.ca

post and working with the company since 2013, this move promises to bring Unite Hair’s reach even closer to stylists around the world.

4 HONOURING A LEGACY

The Beauty Changing Lives Foundatin (BCL) will be paying tribute to the late Pivot Point International, Inc. founder Leo Passage, for the 2015 Legacy Award, taking place on March 21, marking the beginning of America’s Beauty Show in Chicago. The award will honour contributions Passage made to the beauty industry for NEXTGEN

PHOTOS COURTESY OF LCN, ROSSA JURENAS , UNITE

Trombetta. Moving up from his vice president

talent and ongoing education.

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#ABAShows N S O C IAT IO S A Y T U EA A L L IE D B

2015 SHOW SCHEDULE ABA MONTRÉAL MARCH 8th & 9th, 2015 Palais des Congrès

ABA TORONTO

APRIL 19th & 20th, 2015 Metro Toronto Convention Centre NORTH Building

ABA EDMONTON MAY 3rd & 4th, 2015 Edmonton Expo Centre (Northlands)

SAVE THE DATE! CONNECT WITH US 097.se.m15.aba.1.indd 97

ALLIED BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

www.abacanada.com 2015-01-28 12:17 PM


SALON BY THE NUMBERS

Basic Math From covering foundations to getting certified, here's the breakdown on education from across the country in the professional beauty industry.

12 1,500 TRAINING IN ONTARIO

The number of topics covered under the hairstyling program

Total number of hours to complete the hairstyling program

510 990

Total hours of theory training

66

Total hours of practical training

Total number of programs available this year at the Goldwell/KMS Academy Toronto 98

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3,600 does yling Hairst ation ertific ve a c an t s not ha li s c ut sty b ., ugh .C in B d thro certifie e m o ram bec e prog a trad

Total number of hours needed to become certified by the Industry Training Authority in British Columbia

320

Total number of hours to complete the Level 1 Basics program at the Blanche Macdonald Centre

8

Number of subjects needed to pass, as recognized by the Red Seal Program

480 13,600 5 3& 33,600 WORKING IT OUT

11,700

Total hours to complete Level 1 and Level 2 Hairstylist theory and practical components under the Ontario College of Trades

Approximate number of industry workers in Alberta in 2011

Approximate number of industry workers in British Columbia in 2011

Days to complete the ABC programs in Cut, Colour, Men’s and Creative Cuts and Colour at the Sassoon Academy

Approximate number of industry workers in Ontario in 2011

salonmagazine.ca

2015-01-29 3:52 PM


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