Salon Magazine, March 2016 by Salon Communications Inc.

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 Highway 89, Alliston, Ont., Canada L9R 1V1

KI OF NG STYLE

the art of

MEN’S GROOMING

MARCH 16 $5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

True repair is one that lasts.*

PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE SCIENCE A REVOLUTIONARY HAIRCARE FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL THAT WILL MULTIPLY THE BENEFITS OF YOUR BUSINESS: IN YOUR SALON: A LONG-LASTING** AND INTENSE HAIRCARE PROTOCOL. FOR YOUR CLIENT AT HOME: THE POSSIBILITY TO PROLONG THIS TREATMENT WITH THE RETAIL RANGE.*** • Unique loyalty-building system: the treatment is mandatorily initiated in salon, then prolonged at home by PRO|FIBER retail products.*** • Spectacular results: 6 weeks*** of surfacing restructuration, thanks to the caring effects of the fiber from roots to ends.* • Advocated by 85% of women.* • Salon exclusivity contract. APTYL 100 Technology: 12 years of research.

A revolution exclusively to L’Oréal Professionnel hairdressers * Auto-evaluation of 333 women using the PRO|FIBER Revive and Recover ranges for 15 days. ** Instrumental tests after the salon routine - up to 4 PRO|FIBER shampoos (Revive/Restore/Recover). *** Prolongation of in-salon treatment by PRO|FIBER shampoo up to 4 washes + extension of in-salon treatment by PRO|FIBER Re-charge every four shampoos.

Eva Green for L’Oréal Professionnel

Join the PRO|FIBER revolution on www.lorealprofessionnel.com To get PRO|FIBER in your salon, please contact your business consultant at 1 800 361-8017.

NIGHT DENSITY RESCUE NEW NIOXIN Night Density Rescue with Nioxydine24 has been engineered to effectively promote hair density through a powerful blend of antioxidants known to neutralize free radicals on the scalp surface.

CONNECT WITH US AT www.facebook.com/NioxinCanada

OUR FIRST DAY + NIGHT CARE REGIMEN FOR THICKER, FULLER-LOOKING HAIR

NEW

THE 3-PART SYSTEM KIT + NIGHT DENSITY RESCUE NEW Night Density Rescue is clinically proven to promote hair density** by reducing hair loss associated with scalp oxidation, acting in tandem with the body’s natural cell regenerative process. During the day, partner with your NIOXIN 3-Part System Kit for thicker, fuller-looking hair.

*Value Data Kline & Company. †Based on survey among 112 US panelists concerned with thinning hair conducted by StrataMark Dynamics Solution in 2015. **In three months.

COLOR WITH IGORA & WIN

AMERICAN CREW

PRESENTS THE ULTIMATE STYLE ICON FOR MEN

ELVIS PRESLEY

THE KING OF MEN’S GROOMING

FIND OUT MORE AT AMERICANCREW.COM

A NEW TAK E O N T E X T U R E A NO - SALT BEACH WAVE MOUSSE , A C L AY F O R RO UG H ED -UP GLAM AND A SPR AY FOR TOUSLED, UN D O N E ST YL ES INFUSED WITH NOURISHING ARGAN OIL

#ArganEveryDay | Learn more at Moroccanoil.com

ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY

ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y

MOISTURE. SHINE. PROTECT. @UNITEHair @UNITEH air

@UNITE.EUROTHERAPY

@UNITE_Hair @UNITE_H air

WWW.UNITEHAIR.COM UNITE速 PROFESSIONAL SALON SYSTEM

888.95.UNITE

Introduces new mixing techniques that will let you

EXPRESS YOUR CREATIVITY FREELY THE NEW MALIBU COLLECTION features the reformulated PURE COLORS RANGE which allow you to personalize your color to every client.

WITH HYALURONIC ACID & SOY PROTEIN

BEAUTIFUL, RELIABLE PURE COLOR SHADES

(1)

Intensify or neutralize without modifying the shade level or resulting in unexpectded tones. (1) Expert

grading sensorial Test

For class information, contact your sales representative or email us at education_canada@revlon.com WWW.REVLONPROFESSIONAL.COM/REVLONISSIMO

MARCH.16 SALONMAGAZINE.CA FEATURES 27

BEHIND THE SCENES WITH AMERICAN CREW Our Elvis-inspired cover shoot with American Crew’s David Raccuglia

STYLING FOR ALL MANKIND The ultimate guys’ grooming guide, from the latest trends to how to get those styles

BARBERING VS. MEN’S STYLING How do barbering techniques and men’s styling techniques differ? We investigate

YOUR COMPREHENSIVE CLIPPER GUIDE From attachments to caring for your clippers, we break down all the essentials

66 68

TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT We go coast-to-coast to get the best tips for creating a winning Contessa collection

COLLECTIONS Marcus King; Alina Friesen; Paul Pereira; Mandy Clark; Anthony Crosfield; Michelle Oliver; Ludovic Leroy-Vigier; David Corbett; Edwin Johnston

PAUL PEREIRA, SOLO BACE, TORONTO

ON OUR COVER:

Hair: Paul Wilson Makeup: Nellie Kim Styling: Paul Stura Photo: David Raccuglia Photographed by American Crew exclusively for Salon Magazine

s a l o n march.16

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

SPARE ME A FRENCH QUARTER? ONE OF 12 NEW SHADES AVAILABLE IN NAIL LACQUER & GELCOLOR OPI.COM #OPINEWORLEANS

REGULARS

LUDOVIC LEROYVIGIER, RAYKO COIFFURE, MONTREAL

20 22

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

SALONMAGAZINE.CA

HAIRLINES

CONTESSA GALLERY

PROFILE

MARCUS KING, HOOKER & YOUNG WYNYARD, WYNYARD, U.K.

This month at SalonMagazine.ca

All of the latest products, including some man-friendly options, plus our spring trend report for hair and nails

Sarah “Maki” Mak, Contessa 27 Finalist, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year

Calling the Shots: David Raccuglia

BUSINESS Dealing with increasing your service prices without forfeiting your clientele

INTERIORS Everybody In: Concrete Blonde, Sherwood Park, Alta.

EVENTS

SCOOP

BY THE NUMBERS

CONCRETE BLONDE, SHERWOOD PARK, ALTA.

EDWIN JOHNSTON, CUTTING ROOM CREATIVE, NANAIMO, B.C.

EDITOR’S LETTER

s a l o n march.16

ON THE CATWALK

ANTHONY CROSFIELD, UNION SALON, VANCOUVER

salonmagazine.ca

S R A N E O I Y NOVATRY

N I T S F I O ART

www.rusk1.com 800-USE-RUSK /ruskhaircare @ruskhaircare @ruskhaircare

Wind rushes in with the new season, disrupting a staid world that’s seen it all before. Its unpredictability awes us, offering calm in the eye of the storm and the swirling, turbulent storm itself. This look reminds us that we are both ethereal and powerful.

GERARD CARUSO

GLOBAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR

5 REASONS

EDITOR’S LETTER

TO LOVE

ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

MAN-MADE

style

n his early 40s, my father decided to grow a beard. For as long as I could remember, he had always been a clean-shaven guy. At the time, I remember asking him what had sparked him to do so

and he said he just wanted a change—something a little different. It was the ’80s—the era of big hair and high styling—and, needless to It’s not much different today. Many of your male clients are also

Discover why you should attend our new and exclusive anti-aging & beauty EVENTS! SIMPLER NAVIGATION gets you the latest anti-aging, beauty and plastic surgery news faster!

seeking to change up their looks, and they’re counting on you to keep them on trend. As American Crew’s founder, David Raccuglia, has discovered, we’re seeing a resurgence in men’s hairstyles from decades past. With a more modern sense of styling and new products to create these looks, Raccuglia is excited about the next wave in men’s hairstyling, where he believes old-school grooming and new-school styles will exist simultaneously. For some men, the camaraderie of a barbershop is appealing, but you don’t have to work in one to cultivate a men’s clientele. That said, as the owners of Concrete Blonde in Sherwood Park, Alberta, know

Read Elevate ANYWHERE with ISSUU. Android users rejoice!

(“Everybody In,” page 92), you need to create a space where men

Get the FACTS about cosmetic procedures with the improved PROCEDURE DIRECTORY.

knowing which clients are more comfortable with classic barbering

Locate a doctor for your next treatment in the FIND A DOCTOR section.

Elevate Magazine celebrated big wins at the Canadian Online Publishing Awards (COPAs), held on November 19, with Gold for Best Website Design and Silver for Best Media Website!

feel comfortable. And just as important as the space are the tools you use and the language you speak when it comes to their haircuts. As the pros we spoke with in “Take Your Best Shot” (page 62) share, than men’s styling will not only determine their satisfaction but also have them rebooking with you. In the spirit of those who are looking for a change—something a little different—we’re giving you inspiring collections, including many 2016 Contessa finalists, and an inside look at how beauty professionals from across the country put together an award-winning collection. Between inspiration and practical advice, you’ll have what you need to make this your year to enter!

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

1 2 3 4 5

say, he wanted a departure from his otherwise-conservative look.

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

INTRODUCING THE...

LIGHTEST HIGH-PERFORMANCE P R O F E S S I O N A L D RY E R I N T H E W O R L D.

†

NEW!

LIMITED WARRANTY

FER R AR I DESI G N E D E NG I NE 40% LI G HTER TH A N O T H E R D R Y E R S * UP TO 50 % FA ST E R D R Y I NG ** OVER 50 % Q U I ET E R O P E R AT I O N *** UP TO 5,0 0 0 HOUR L I F E

YEARS

REDUCED HEAT EXPOSURE BaBylissPRO Rapido™ features the ideal combination of temperature and air performance to respect hair cuticles and natural hydration.

BABYLISSPRO RAPIDO™

TRADITIONAL DRYER

INFRARED VISUALIZATION AT THE SURFACE TEMPERATURE OF THE HAIR WHILE DRYING

NOT ALL HOT AIR IS THE SAME!

©2015 BABYLISSPRO® *When compared to our other professional dryers. **Based on higher air volume and pressure when compared to our DC motor dryers. ***When compared to our other professional dryers of like performance without noise-reducing filter. †Based on airflow vs. weight.

DA N N YCO.CO M

PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 25 issue 3

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Ashley Kowalewski 416.869.3131 ext.119 ashley@salonmagazine.ca DESIGNER

Gareth Adamson 416.869.3131 ext.106 gareth@salonmagazine.ca ONLINE ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.122 nicole@salonmagazine.ca EDITORIAL INTERN

Emily Smibert 416.869.3131 ext.112 editorialintern@salonmagazine.ca

BE BOLD.

COPY EDITOR

be fearless. F

Corinna Reeves

different. Sadly, as we put together this issue, we learned that the

OPERATIONS MANAGER (ON LEAVE)

world had lost this style icon.

CIRCULATION MANAGER

CONTRIBUTORS

Paul Chmieloweic GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

Samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 SamanthaAnobile1@gmail.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

or me, a child of the ‘70s, David Bowie’s influence was

Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca

massive. With his amazing music, wild hair, outlandish

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

fashion and androgynous style, we knew this guy was

Karren Han

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 F. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca

Last year, I was blown away by Bowie’s exhibit at the Art Gallery of Ontario. I hadn’t realized the extent of his artistic talent, and I walked

EXECUTIVE BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

away with an even deeper respect for his creative genius. From singer,

Candice Besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca

musician and songwriter to visual artist, style master and chameleon,

Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca

CHAIRMAN

Bowie’s work had so many global influences, it was breathtaking.

ASSISTANT TO THE CHAIRMAN

Pam Fulford

The one thing that stood out was his attention to detail, not only in

VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

his work but his image and persona. He tightly controlled it all from

Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca

the very early stages of his career: His image wasn’t happenstance; it

SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location FOR US 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD

was all quite methodical and intentional. In large part, it was his ability to embrace change and newness that kept his evolution. He never stayed in one place too long, and each evolution was unique and cool.

A D D RE SS CH A NGE S Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

He was fearless.

Fax: 705.434.9052 Phone: 1-866-764-0227 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Watching the global admiration of Bowie showcasing his incredible body of work can make us all feel a bit insignificant. But in many

8799 Highway 89, Alliston, ON L9R 1V1

ways, Bowie represents a lot of the same ideals that creative

SA LON M AGA Z INE

hairstylists aspire to. We’re fortunate to work in such a creative

183 Bathurst Street Suite 202 Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131 F. 416.869.3008

field, where misfits are accepted, the avant garde is expected, and So, whenever you may be feeling a little stuck or in need of a little inspiration, why not channel your inner Ziggy Stardust? As many of you are doing research for your next Contessa collection, take a page from Bowie: Be calculating, work with intention and, most of all, be original and fearless.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

hairstylists can be whoever they want.

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 8799 Highway 89, Alliston, ON L9R 1V1 Canada

National Magazine Awards GOLD

SILVER

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

TOP FIVE

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclab

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C A N A DA

s a l o n march.16

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

SAY E L Y T S K A E P S EIMI

UCING

INTROD

TYLING GE OF S A U G N BAL LA THE GLO

IMI E K A E P #S •

•

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

ON-SET VIBES When I’m shooting, there needs to be engagement. I’m always reeling back, letting the model go a bit, and then trying to pull the shoot in the direction of my vision.

BEHIND THE SCENES

Classic American Style

By Anna Lee Boschetto

COVER STORY At 21, Elvis was a rock-and-roll guy who was very put together. With his white shirt, white tie, and amazing shoes, for 1956, his look was very unique. No one looked like Elvis; not only was he handsome, but he was also very masculine. With this classic pompadour, we are celebrating the simplicity of his style.

Celebrating American Crew’s exclusive partnership with Elvis Presley’s estate, the brand's founder, David Raccuglia, photographed a modern interpretation of the King’s style for Salon Magazine.

ICONIC STYLE The pompadour honours a man’s head shape with the tapering down, around the ears, building up the top and giving a truly masculine silhouette; today’s hair is based on that style. Matte, shiny, dry or broken up: the pompadour shape is something that men feel very comfortable wearing.

salonmagazine.ca

ON INSPIRATION When you think about Elvis Presley, you think of his hair—it was his signature. There were many versions of his hairstyle, and with American Crew we are starting out with ’50s Elvis and working our way through the decades, showing his unique style.

MODERN TRENDSETTER Early-’90s bands like Nirvana andThe Replacements wore vintage clothing and had really cool hair with sideburns, they were a bit more put together. As a hairstylist at that time, I realized there was a nod to vintage America that was due. Similarily, I think we’re living that right now. S

march.16

salon

online at

KEEP YOUR FACE LOOKING YOUNG A facelift isn’t your only option! Visit ElevateMagazine.com, our sister publication, to see the before and after shots of one patient’s facial rejuvenation—you won’t believe the transformation!

Our Favourite Red-Carpet Looks The Salon Magazine editors round up their favourite

YOU HAVE TO SEE THIS VIDEO

hairstyles from the 2016 Golden Globe Awards. Thanks for joining our Twitter

chats with the Schorem founders, Bertus and Leen, about

party! #GoldenGlobes

men’s grooming trends at SalonMagazine.ca. Don’t miss it!

SEE OUR LUXE HOLIDAY LOOKS PHOTO CONTEST WINNER! Congratulations to Richard J, a freelance artist in Toronto! Visit SalonMagazine.ca to see which tools and products he used to create this high fashion look.

See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections!

SalonMag 28

s a l o n march.16

Salon_Magazine

SalonMagazine

Salon Magazine

PHOTOS: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY,THINKSTOCK, SCHOREM BARBIER AND YASMIN GROTHÉ; HAIR & MAKEUP: RICHARD J.; PHOTO: CHRIS CORRIDORE; STYLING: MARK JOHN TRIPP

Yasmin Grothé, French editor-in-chief of Salon Magazine,

SalonMagazine salonmagazine.ca

LOVE TO COLOR ON THE BRIGHT SIDE? DISCOVER A DAZZLING SPECTRUM OF BOLD, BRILLIANT COLOR WITH JOICO® COLOR INTENSITY— our intensely concentrated pigments designed to help you create over-thetop vibrancy that lasts through 15 shampoos.

JOICOCANADA.COM

BosDefense for Color-Treated Hair

Thicker,

Fuller, Healthier -

Looking Hair Sulfate, Paraben,

Phthalate-Free

and Vegan Formulas

HAIRLINES NEWS

Strengthen

Your Business

GOLDWELL TAKES A SPECIALIZED APPROACH TO PREMIUM HAIR CARE. With four salon services customizable to your clients’ needs and a premium lineup of home care products, the new Goldwell Kerasilk Premium Hair Care will help you alter your clients' relationship with their hair. Building on the technology of the Kerasilk Keratin Treatment services, hairstylists can now offer their clients a menu of four services that will rejuvenate stressed or damaged hair, boost limp or fine tresses and improve the life of their hair colour. In keeping with its commitment to hairstylists, Goldwell also offers educational services that will enable stylists to develop their knowledge and understanding of the Kerasilk technology while learning techniques that will translate into added dollars in the salon.

Into the Night Reduce oxidative damage with Nioxin’s latest technology. As the hairstylist’s first choice for clients with thinning hair, PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: GOLDWELL, LʼORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, NIOXIN

Nioxin has developed a home

salonmagazine.ca

care product that will help promote hair density while they sleep. Featuring Nioxydine24, a technology that promotes hair density by delivering

ER M A E T S SPEED

Achieve smoother hair faster with the

latest in-salon service from L’Oréal Professionnel. Using Pro-Keratin technology, L’Oréal Professionnel’s Steampod system is a smoothing service that will have your clients in and out of your salon without compromising the integrity of their hair. With five temperature settings that offer optimal heat distribution, this tool helps maintain moisture levels in the hair to keep hair healthy. Plus, two service levels—a gloss that steam-seals shine and a contour lightener—allow you to customize the smoothing service to fit your clients' needs.

antioxidants like vitamin E and ginger root extract to the scalp, Nioxin Night Density Rescue neutralizes oxidative damage by helping to repair and regenerate scalp health.

march.16

salon

HAIRLINES NEWS

hero WORSHIP

Choose your top-shelf tools and products in the fifth annual Reader’s Choice Awards! From dry shampoos to gel nail systems, you’ve been voting en masse in the Reader’s Choice Awards and, this year, we’re adding two new categories! From April 1 to April 15, you can vote for your top Styling Tool and Long-Wear Polish. Whether you’re on set or in the salon, products alone won’t cut it. Now is your chance to give props to the dryers, curling and flat irons, razors and clippers that help you make the art of hairstyling happen, plus those weeklong polishes for your mid-commitment manicure clients.

HIGHLIGHT BLING,

baby!

The options are endless with Redken’s exclusive colour technique.

With the four new shades in Redken’s Blonde Idol collection, you can brighten dull hair, add more dimension and achieve a completely customized look for your clients. Along with new shades that range from icy blonde to more subtle sun-kissed hues, the lineup includes a new Free Hand Creamy Lightener that’s perfect for more creative techniques, including babylights and balayage.

Back to the Beach A new wave of beach styles comes with

With the launch of its texture lineup, Moroccanoil global ambassador Kevin Hughes created a series of looks that he refers to as “white space styling.” Using the salt-free Beach Wave Mousse, which activates natural waves in the hair, this strong-hold product is a hydrating way to created that tousled texture almost instantly. To add grip for braided details or plaited styles, the new Dry Texture Spray provides that gritty workable hold.

s a l o n march.16

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: MOROCCANOIL,THINKSTOCK

Moroccanoil’s latest product line.

salonmagazine.ca

HAIR TO FALL IN LOVE WITH KERASILK PREMIUM HAIR CARE www.goldwell.com/kerasilk

For availability of Goldwell Haircare Products across Canada call

Client Services: 1-877-670-6767

HAIRLINES NEWS

tea it up American Crew puts a new twist on a guy’s favourite product. From the boardroom to the locker room, men are all about saving time and money, which is why almost every guy we know uses a three-in-one product at one time or another. Now, American Crew is offering men the option of a pro product that will leave hair and skin feeling strong yet soft and altogether refreshing. Along with

TEA TREE round-up

the invigorating scent of tea tree oil, this new product will remove oil while leaving hair and skin conditioned.

out of this world Restore your client’s skin and hair with Earthly Body’s new Miracle Oil line. Combining tea tree and hemp seed oils, along with vitamin E, avocado and rosemary, Earthly Body’s Miracle Oil lineup is not only rejuvenating but also vegan and environmentally friendly. With the healing properties of tea tree oil, the new Miracle Oil Shave Cream soothes skin, while the restorative properties of hemp seed oil smooth and soften it. Plus, the convenient travel size that’s ideal for your clients' winter vacations.

power line Stimulate, strengthen and regenerate hair with Paul Mitchell’s new Tea Tree Scalp Care line. This new three-step home care system features a coloursafe cleanser that primes the scalp, a lightweight antithinning and detangling conditioner and an anti-thinning tonic. Each product contains a Regeniplex blend that helps increase the density of the hair and is well suited to both fine and coarse hair textures.

s a l o n march.16

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: AMERICAN CREW,THINKSTOCK, PAUL MITCHELL, EARTHLY BODY

new lineup also includes Earthly Body’s soothing Miracle Oil Spray in a

salonmagazine.ca

THE

HIGHEST LEVEL OF LIFT IMAGINABLE

NEW!

THE FASTEST GROWING COLOR in the NATION @PRAVANA #ULTRAHILIFTS CENTRAL BEAUTY SUPPLY LONDON ONTARIO • SOUTH ONTARIO www.centralbeautysupply.ca

ALLIANCE MY BEAUTY SUPPLY CO. BRITISH COLUMBIA • ALBERTA www.mbsccanada.com

UGAVA DISTRIBUTION INC. QUEBEC www.ugava.com

PASSION BEAUTY SUPPLY MANITOBA • ALBERTA SASKATCHEWAN • NW ONTARIO www.passionbeauty.ca

DEFINED BEAUTY SYSTEMS MISSISSAUGA •TORONTO CENTRAL ONTARIO • ONTARIO www.definedbeautysystems.com

HAIRLINES NEWS

REBEL

style Putting a rebellious spin on Sexy Hair with the latest brand ambassador. Known for his classic sexy-cool appeal, James Dean is the ambassador for the brand’s Style Sexy Hair product line. Whether your clients are looking to get Dean's longer, textured look or his slicked-back style, they can achieve laid-back and structured

Cracking the Look & Feel Code

styles with Sexy Hair’s men’s

Here’s what’s new for this year’s

grooming products, including

Canadian Hairstylist of the Year

Frenzy, Slept-In and Hard-Up.

Awards entry guidelines!

FACT

green

SUSTAINABLE COLOUR SERVICE

environments. But what about offering environmentally friendly services? Here’s how you can take your colour services one step further by making a conscious choice to reduce your environmental footprint. A low-ammonia and low-MEA content means that you wash fewer chemicals down the drain. And for clients with skin sensitivities, a low-MEA content helps reduce

scalp irritation. One to try: EuforaColor creates high-impact colour with low-MEA and low-ammonia content.

and Regulations, right? We

know it can be a tedious task. So, we’ve

From LED lighting to reclaimed flooring, many salon owners are creating eco-friendly

skim over the Contessa Rules

reorganized the entry package with a dedicated “Exclusive Category” section, making it easy to determine whether you’re getting it right!

NEW RULE!

We've also outlined the meaning of the look and feel in our exclusivity rule, which means

that each photo within an exclusive category must have different hairstyles, wardrobe and accessory styling and background. Simply stated, it has to be a completely different photo shoot. We have lots of categories where you can submit the same collection

Look for certified-organic ingredients, including aloe vera and jojoba oil, which are

more than once, but to keep the exclusive

used in brands like EuforaColor and are a way to ensure that your products have

collections, well, exclusive. Wondering which

responsibly sourced ingredients.

categories are exclusive ones? Canadian

Hairstylist, Elite Master Hairstylist, Master

Reduce your salon’s water consumption by installing an eco-friendly water pressure system. This will help ensure that you’re keeping your water usage in check without

compromising your services.

Colourist, Session Hairstylist and Canadian Salon Team. You'll find the completely revised Rules and Regulations online, and look out for more details in our April issue.

s a l o n march.16

PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

THINK

Be honest, you probably only

salonmagazine.ca

WORLD OF WELL-BEING WITH KOLESTON PERFECT® INNOSENSE

With ME+, OUR COLOR TECHNOLOGY OF THE FUTURE for ingredient-conscious clients. Five new shades inspired by earth, mineral, and stone.

•

Globally Awarded by Science and Beauty.

DISCOVER A NEW

WELLA THE HEART OF HAIRDRESSING.

HAIRLINES NEWS

MORE THAN MASSAGE

’s Tom s Tip

Restore scalp health with a simple sink-side treatment. We all know that

in their scalp, it can become an essential service

providing excellent

for every male client.

customer service goes

That said, the benefits of a scalp massage

beyond giving your client a great haircut. Malibu

at the shampoo bowl need to solve a problem

C and founder and president Tom Porter pride

such as dry scalp, which can be common for

themselves on providing health-based beauty

male clients. An antioxidant treatment can be

and experiential services—and that starts at the

used as an add-on service that can help open

sink. Therapeutic scalp massages are easy to

the conversation between a hairstylist and client

perform and when the client sees a difference,

about home care with these treatment products.

TOOLBOX

BaBylissPro Rapido High Performance Hair Dryer Rapido provides a quieter experience with removable noisereducing filters.

O T N W DO T N U O C O T N O R THE TO OW ABA SH Competitions, seminars and

”

– Andrea Sampson,

professional ambassador and director of education for Dannyco Professional

Guy Tang at the Toronto ABA! The powerful Ferrari-designed motor means fast-paced drying time.

Taking place on February 28 and 29, the Toronto ABA Show welcomes Guy Tang to Canada for his debut Canadian appearance. Known for his bold use of colour and balayage technique, Tang will take to the Toronto ABA Show’s

While powerful, the hair dryer is lightweight, weighing in at less than a pound.

main stage to showcase his outstanding transformations. The show will also feature the Battle of the Barber competition with Major Fade’s Dereck Payne and an all-new Bridal Competition, along with men’s, business and makeup education seminars.

s a l o n march.16

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: GUY TANG, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL

“

This hair dryer is the perfect combination of power and finesse. You can easily complete any style within minutes, comfortably, effortlessly and perfectly!

salonmagazine.ca

inTRodUcing

ERUPTEK

EXPLOSIVE TEXTURE, EXPANSIVE VOLUME &

REsinTEK

HOLDABLE, REMOLDABLE, HyPER-SHINE

NeW

HAIRLINES NEWS

CITRUS SENSATION SpaRitual adds a new twist to the slow beauty movement. Infused with the Japanese citrus fruit

Colour Neutrality

yuzu, SpaRitual’s Yuzu Rose products are a complementary lineup of body products that will rejuvenate and nourish your clients’ skin. Formulated with the same vegan, certified-organic and fairtrade ingredients found in all SpaRitual products, this limited-edition lineup

GET HEALTHY HAIR AND TOTAL GREY COVERAGE WITH SCRUPLES’ NEW NEUTRAL NEUTRAL SERIES.

features a body butter, a sugar scrub, a dry body oil, a soak tonic and four lip gloss shades.

Maintaining the integrity of the hair is essential for your grey-haired clients. Now, the Scruples Neutral Neutral colour line not only provides 100 per cent grey coverage by depositing colour deep into the hair but also conditions hair thanks to the nutrientrich botanicals found in its exclusive

MADE FOR MEN A new vegan-friendly men’s lineup from Marrakesh. Featuring hemp seed and argan oils, along with proteins, vitamins and herbs, Marrakesh for Men is a natural product line that improves scalp and skin health. Each product features craft beer names, including the time-saving Double Hop, a two-inone shampoo and body wash, and an ultra-nourishing beard oil, Imperial. This is a great option for barbershops and salons in search of a natural line formulated for male clients.

s a l o n march.16

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SCRUPLES, SPARITUAL,THINKSTOCK, MARRAKESH

Protective Barrier Complex.

salonmagazine.ca

THE NATURE OF THICKER, FULLER HAIR

REDUCES HAIR FALL BY

*Due to breakage. When used as a system of shampoo, conditioner and tonic. Products were tested by an established, independent third-party laboratory.

To get Tea Tree Scalp Care in your salon, contact your Distributor Salon Consultant. PaulMitchell.com.

HAIRLINES TREND REPORT

RUNWAY

heroes Laid-back styles are just the beginning for spring/summer 2016. This season, we’re seeing more of a transition to super-wearable, almost completely undone styles that will translate both on the catwalk and for your clients. Here are some of the hottest looks and the backstage hero products that helped create them.

THE TREND: FUN WITH BUNS THE FIX: EUFORA FIXATION STYLING WAX AND TIGI CATWALK BODIFYING SPRAY Buns have always varied on the runway from sophisticated chignons to whipped-up-in-a-moment knots to those inspired by ballerinas. For spring/summer, the unstructured yet textured low bun made its unwitting appearance with a bit of edgy wetness that we’ve seen in past seasons. To create the damp low bun seen at Katie Ermilio for New York Fashion Week, the Eufora team, led by Mirza Batanovic, worked Eufora Fixation Styling Wax through strands and then raked hair in the bun to create that textured effect. At Jonathan Simkhai, the TIGI team left things a bit softer, using TIGI Catwalk Bodifying Spray to add movement while blow-drying before tying

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; PHOTOS: EUFORA,TIGI

hair in a loose knot at the base of the neck.

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

REDISCOVER THE ART OF THE BLOW-DRY YOUR HAIR ASSISTANT Conceived and designed by Angelo Seminara

CARBON-NEUTRAL PACKAGING

WWW.DAVINES.COM FACEBOOK.COM/DAVINESNORTHAMERICA

HAIRLINES TREND REPORT

THE TREND: BEACH DAY THE FIX: REDKEN FASHION WAVES 07 SEA SALT SPRAY, UNITE TEXTURIZA DRY FINISHING SPRAY AND WELLA PROFESSIONALS EIMI DRY ME DRY SHAMPOO Texture is always evolving, but for the past few seasons it’s become increasingly more wearable, with an almost bedhead feel paired with a rock and roll flair. At Toronto World MasterCard Fashion Week, we saw a looser take on the beachy wave, created by Jorge Joao using Redken Fashion Waves 07 Sea Salt Spray, but at Jenny Packham at New York Fashion Week, the Unite team used Texturiza Dry Finishing Spray to create the undressed roughed-up look. At Blumarine at Paris Fashion Week, Eugene Souleiman sprayed Wella Professionals EIMI Dry Me Dry Shampoo through damp strands, twisted hair and then blow-dried it for a

THE TREND: BOYS ARE BACK THE FIX: AMERICAN CREW GROOMING SPRAY AND GROOMING CREAM We’re used to seeing guys on the runway by now, but it’s still great to see a whole week dedicated to men’s styling and fashion, like at Toronto Men’s Fashion Week. American Crew educator Matula Liounis highlighted some of the week’s hottest trends, following suit with the ladies, natural texture. While we still saw some of the more structured and classic men’s styles, American Crew Classic Grooming Spray and Grooming Cream made it easy for Liounis to work in that touchable texture at shows like Dalla and Swam without leaving the hair too stiff.

s a l o n march.16

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: UNITE, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, REDKEN, AMERICAN CREW

totally effortless finish.

salonmagazine.ca

INTRODUCING NEW REFILL

POWDER.LIGHTENER Experience high performance lift in eco-friendly fashion

“We selected a re-sealable package for REFILL POWDER.LIGHTENER in a conscious e≠ort to reduce packaging. We’ve also incorporated thoughtful, good-for-the-hair ingredients in the product like soothing aloe vera.” - KEVIN MURPHY

Available in Salons April 2016

COLORMEBYKM.COM

• Available in both ammonia-free and extra-lift • Delivers up to 7 levels of lift • 17.6 Oz. re-sealable pouch • Gradual and progressive lifting action guarantees even results • Eliminates brassiness and unwanted yellow tones • Formulated with aloe vera for gentle conditioning • Dust-free formula • Pleasant berry scent

www.internationalbeauty.ca

www.TBBS.ca

Alterna, Babe, Bioelements, DS Laboratories, Dannyco, Ego, Johnny B, Kasho, Kevin.Murphy, Logics, L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix, Neuma, One Styling, OPI, PureOlogy, Tressa, REDAVID, SpaRitual

Affinage, Alterna, Bosley Professional Strength, ISO Johnny B, Joico, Kevin.Murphy, Macadamia Professional Mixed Chicks, Neuma, Saryna Key

11 stores to serve your professional needs in AB, SK & MB

4 stores to serve your professional needs in ON Call toll free 1.800.387.2962 or locally: 416.787.1211

Order Desk call toll free: 1.800.642.3818

HAIRLINES TREND REPORT

THE TREND: NEON PARTY THE FIX: MORGAN TAYLOR AND OPI As the runways prepare for warmer weather, it’s no surprise that there’s going to be a mix of toned-down neutrals and bright colours, but neons were turned right up at New York Fashion Week. At Betsey Johnson, the Morgan Taylor team created a psychedelic pattern using Don't Worry Be Brilliant and Water Baby that highlighted the brand’s colourful position. At Jeremy Scott, OPI lead nail artist and social media maven Miss Pop painted the models’ nails a mix of bright colours, including Kiss Me I'm Brazilian and Alpine Snow.

THE TREND: FRENCH REVIVAL Some may think the French manicure is a dated approach to nails, but while we’ve abandoned the traditional French, it’s gotten a complete revamp. Essie created two French tips at Toronto World MasterCard Fashion Week for Lucian

THE TREND: CHECKERBOARD CHIC

Matis and New York Fashion Week for Veronica Beard that paid homage to this

THE FIX: CHINA GLAZE AND CND

graphic keyhole-like design using Blanc, while at Veronica Beard the team used

Graphic lines have been marching up and

Clambake as the tip on a nude base for a colourful twist.

down the catwalks for a few seasons, balancing out the laid-back nature of the hair, but this season we saw a new variation: the checkerboard. At New York Fashion Week, both China Glaze at Opening Ceremony and CND at Libertine played with this gameinspired pattern. Mixing in some bright colours with neutral hues, China Glaze used Whats She Dune? to create its checkered manicures and CND accented Cream Puff against other textures and patterns.

s a l o n march.16

classic style while still offering a fresh perspective. At Lucian Matis, lead nail artist for Essie Canada and global lead educator Rita Remark created a more

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: CHINA GLAZE, CND, MORGAN TAYLOR, OPI, ESSIE

THE FIX: ESSIE

salonmagazine.ca

THE BEAUTY OF BOTANICALS ™ THE SCIENCE OF CND

Escape on a journey of relaxation. Our botanical spa collection delivers a new level of treatment benefits for beautiful results. 4-step system lets you customize services with a choice of fragrance moods and add-ons for deeper care. Let the indulgence begin. Inspired by nature. Rooted in science. New CND™ Spa Collection. cnd.com

HAIRLINES NAILS

PANTONE CALLING

Happy Birthday, Essie! The brand celebrates the big 3-5 in a big way. What better way to commemorate 35 years

Starry Starry Night, which has been one of

of Essie than with a throwback collection

Essie’s most sought after hues—is getting

called Retro Revival? Paying homage to the

a Vegas-style revamp with some Stardust

brand’s Vegas beginnings, each of the six

Casino-like sparkle.

ORLY Give your clients a happy mix of shades that will take them from spring to summer with the Melrose collection.

returning shades—including the coveted CND Bright jolts of spring colours pull us out of our winter comas in the Art Vandal collection, available in both Shellac and Vinylux.

Handle It

OPI Why be famous when you can be Infamous like these six new shades, just in time for the your-time-to-shine season?

Hollywood darling Kerry Washington has officially The Scandal star had been hinting at a collaboration for months on her Instagram feed, showing off her nails and some of her go-to shades, including

CHINA GLAZE The ‘70s are here to stay with the blend of muted pastels and neutrals in the House of Colour lineup.

cult-favourite Lincoln Park After Dark, Big Apple Red and even some from Gwen Stefani’s line. Both Washington and OPI’s Suzi Weiss-Fischmann will be collaborating on a nail colour collection, slated for release later in 2016. Though Washington cites some pretty classic hues as her go-tos, we’re sure her own line will take it to the next level for when she’s handling White House scandals in a wardrobe

BIO SCULPTURE Three neon hues and one glittery shade make up the vibrant spring/ summer Disco Dolly collection.

worthy only of Olivia Pope.

MORGAN TAYLOR The Botanical Awakenings lineup, full of six pretty pink hues, is a gentle reminder that beautiful blooms are just around the corner.

s a l o n march.16

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: ESSIE, ORLY, CND, OPI, CHINA GLAZE, BIO SCULPTURE, MORGAN TAYLOR, INSTAGRAM.COM/KERRYWASHINGTON, KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY,THINKSTOCK

been appointed OPI’s newest creative ambassador.

salonmagazine.ca

TAKE IT OFF NEW DDL Direct Dye Lifter

with for Professional Colorists

Removes unwanted direct dyes and stains Success with or without developer Creamy, non-drip formula Mix with water for gentler lifting Creative control for special effects Single step freshly-activated formula DDL Direct Dye Lifter is: R 100% Vegan R Cruelty-Free R Made in the USA Formulated Without: R Ammonia R Formaldehyde R Gluten R Parabens R Fragrance

1.800.622.7332 | www.MalibuC.com/Prof

HAIRLINES NAILS

3 Steps to the Ultimate MAN-icure Give those man hands a fresh start. Over the past few years, we’ve seen a dramatic increase in guys taking better care of themselves (even if they’re going with the full lumberjack beard) and that includes manicures and pedicures. But for the guys who still aren’t sure, we spoke to John Nguyen, CND education ambassador, and Anka Miron, owner of Mankind Grooming Studio for Men in Toronto, to help walk you through the steps to giving that unsuspecting guy his new go-to service.

1 Give him a taste

When Miron’s male clients come into Mankind for

a haircut, she takes every opportunity to try something new with them, opening the door for a conversation about grooming habits. “When any client comes in for a haircut, we do a hot towel on his face to cleanse his skin and then we do a hand massage and paraffin treatment to make way for a discussion about trimming nails and

Man-speak

removing dirt,” she explains. Usually once her clients

From “greasing the wheels”

get a feel for these services, they start coming back for

to “foot detailing,” making your

those specifically.

services approachable and

Educate him

“man-friendly” is the way to

We all know that the only difference between

get him on board.

manicures on men and women is generally colour apprehensive about regular hand and foot maintenance. As Miron explains, “Some guys come in with minor health conditions like ingrown nails or calluses and don’t

3 Make it snappy

According to Nguyen, “Providing express services is an excellent way to

know how to prevent these things, so we educate

appeal to male clients because they usually don’t want to spend a lot of time

our clients from a health perspective.” Nguyen agrees:

fussing over their hands and feet.” He adds that a lot of his male clients will make

“It’s important to emphasize how the service is

their appointments either earlier in the day or later in the day to avoid some of

beneficial for overall hand and foot cleanliness and

the other traffic in the salon. When you’ve gotten your male client on board with

health,” he says, adding that most men respond better

hand and foot maintenance, Miron recommends that he come back seasonally

to more technical explanations than coming in to

as opposed to monthly so he gets the care he needs without feeling too

get “pampered.”

high-maintenance.

s a l o n march.16

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

application, if any, though some guys are still

salonmagazine.ca

Exclusive Great Lengths continues to be the number one most respected Hair Extension Brand in the world.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in your salon?

Visit our website to learn more about our hair extensions and view our 2016 educational seminar schedule.

www.greatlengthscanada.com COLLECTION BY ANGELO SEMINARA

HAIRLINES COLOUR

EMBRACE THE GREY Three tips for helping your clients rock their greys. Growing out your clients' grey hair can be a slow process. We spoke to Susan Boccia, education manager for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada, and Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Goldwell guest artist and master stylist at Qi Salon in Toronto, for some of their top tips on the best way to give them that silver finish. 1. LET THEM DO THE TALKING Whether your client wants to cover up her grey or embrace her natural colour, both Boccia and Garrod agree that the best approach is to let your client bring up the topic first. As Boccia explains, “Your client may have reached a point in her life where she doesn’t feel the need to colour her hair anymore.” Garrod adds that if your client comes in every three weeks, during the consultation, “I would suggest growing out her natural colour and then explaining the process.”

Texture: For fine or limp strands, a shorter cut will add some dimension. When clients have coarser hair, keratin treatments can smooth those out while you’re transitioning their colour.

Lifestyle: You’ll need to set a realistic schedule for your clients for colour touch-ups or trims to cut out the growth.

Keep It Fresh To keep your client’s Boccia recommends the

Growing out your client’s existing hair colour can be a long

Schwarzkopf Professional

process, depending on how quickly she wants to go grey.

BC Hairtherapy Excellium

Both Boccia and Garrod agree that the fastest way is to cut

Q10+ Beautifying

out the colour, but that’s not an easy choice to make. To

line, which removes

lessen the blow, Boccia recommends slowly lightening your

discolouration from white

client’s overall look so that it’s not as obvious when they get

or silver strands.

to the point of physically growing it out. 3. SMOOTH TRANSITION

To keep your client’s

Garrod recommends taking it a few steps at a time: “You

grey looking fresh,

need to lighten your client’s base to a level eight or higher;

Garrod suggests sending

once you’ve gotten to that level, switch her from permanent to demi-permanent colour.” She adds, “Getting to that level eight base can take a few appointments, so to make the change more gradual, I’d take her hair up a level slowly and add some highlights to break up the base.”

s a l o n march.16

Financial cost: Clients will need to come in more regularly for colour touch-ups.

her home with Goldwell DualSenses Refining Silver Shampoo to keep brassiness at bay.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; PHOTOS: GOLDWELL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

grey hair looking fresh,

2. GIVE THEM OPTIONS

salonmagazine.ca

NEW Shades!

Bat your lashes, blow a kiss, bare some skin. Soft blushes of color tease the imagination. Coy. Confident. Playful. Be irresistible. Discover the new collection at a store near you.

WINNER 2015

Lavender Sparks Lace Fly

CND, SHELLAC and the logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ÂŠ2016 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

Be Demure

Find this nail style at cnd.com/ nail-salonservices/ nail-fashion

Aqua-intance

Pink Pursuit

Honey Darlinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

cnd.com Follow us @CNDCanada

hairlines news

editor’s

PICKS

Some of the latest guys’ grooming essentials.

Homegrown Hair Whether your client is going cleanshaven with Prairie Boys Supply Co. Shave Oil or moisturizing his scruff with Beard Balm, these made-in-Canada products are sure to please. prairieboyssupplyco.com

ScruB-a-duB With natural patchouli oil, cinnamon extract and barley bran, Vitaman Exfoliating Soap will slough off dead skin for an all-over smooth. vitaman.com.au

Beard envy Arm your barbershop for your male clients’ needs with the Brave & Bearded Bakelite Beard Comb to keep those unruly beards neat and tidy and the Captain Razor for a close and classic shave. bravenbearded.com

s a l o n march.16

g&T A long-lasting but never sticky hold is what you'll get in the texture- and volume-creating Reuzel Grooming Tonic. reuzelpomade.com

Squeaky clean Soft and healthy skin isn’t just reserved for the girls, so hand your male clients super-hydrating, antioxidant-rich Davines OI Body Wash. davines.com

text: ashley kowalewski, photography: paul C

Face Fix Blackheads, blemishes and acne-prone skin will be given a quick, clean refresh with Dermalogica Charcoal Rescue Masque. dermalogica.ca

salonmagazine.ca

with Naoplexâ&#x201E;˘ Technology

PREVENT, PROTECT AND RESTORE Color with confidence and achieve multi-level lightening with Color ElixirTM Professional Additive and Sealer

2X improvement in oxidative stability 3X anti-breakage benefits No formula adjustments No processing time adjustments Safe for use on all hair types

Photo: Pablo Aguilar Hair: Mirza Batanovic

To find out more visit www.eufora.net

s a l o n march.16

All MAnkind

By Yasmin Grothé

styling for

Men’s hairstyling and specialty services are hotter than ever! Although barbering continues to be popular, men’s styles are moving in a new direction for 2016. Here’s how you can keep your male clients right on trend and your salon business on the rise.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

now trending LONGER HAIR Because the big hipster barbering trend started to go mainstream last year, we are obviously still going to see quite a bit of these influences in 2016. So, no need to worry! Short, faded barber looks are still going strong for the majority of clients who want the barbershop experience. However, the trendiest of guys are now moving away from those quintessential looks (the coiff, the pompadour, the flattop) and opting for longer locks instead. In Europe, where most of men’s cutting-edge hairstyling trends tend to originate, “Hair is longer and softer, flatter and away from the face,” says Terry

PHOTOS: FINALIST, CONTESSA 27 MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR: PETE GOUPIL, SALON ESPACE C, BROSSARD, QUE.; STYLING: FLORENCE O. DURAND; PHOTOS: BRIAN YPPERCIEL; FINALIST, CONTESSA 27 MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR: MICHAEL GIBSON, BRUSH SALON,VANCOUVER; MAKEUP: SARA ROSE; PHOTO: SHIMON KARMEL

Ritcey, director of education for Redken Canada.

LESS STRUCTURE “To go with longer hair, finishes are also softer and a bit dishevelled—almost like they need a haircut,” says Ritcey. “We’re also going to be seeing less undercuts but more texture and natural hair for better structure,” says Pete Goupil, an educator for American Crew. “I’m seeing a lot of late ’80s and early ’90s hairstyles. Hair is also less groomed.”

FACIAL HAIR With hair being longer, it’s also time to revisit the beard and facial hair in 2016 and create a new balance between these two pivotal expressions of men’s grooming. To look polished and elegant, According to Goupil, “Moustaches are going to be huge in 2016

LIQUID WAX BY AMERICAN CREW

for those early adopters!”

A great styling product that

“Facial hair will become shorter as hair gets longer,” says Ritcey.

can be used many ways on dry

show me the money!

or wet hair. Provides optimal control, shine and hold. “I love it on any length, but it’s really

It’s no secret for anyone with a large male clientele: Business is

amazing on longer men’s hair.”

booming! And it’s still growing because of the huge impact of

– Pete Goupil, American Crew

the barbering trend that is trickling down to all male consumers.

International All Star educator

2015 is the first year that there has been more online interest in men's hair than women's. In fact, according to Google’s 2015 Beauty Trends Report, “man bun” was one of the most searched beauty terms of the year. “Men are finally enjoying taking care of their look and

OUTPLAY TEXTURE PUTTY BY R EDKEN FOR MEN

appearance: They want the eye contour crèmes, the hair lotions

Constructs hair with funky separations

and the pomades,” shares Simon Parent, owner of Revolution &

for oversized pieces and a matte finish,

Style, a Canadian company that represents brands like Reuzel,

in a crunch-free formula. Lasting

MensDept., Vitaman and Brave & Bearded. And, unlike women

memory with humidity resistance.

who know exactly what they want, men like to be guided. It’s

“We re-imagined our entire Redken for

actually very easy to have brand loyalty with your male clients:

men collection last year to offer more

They are always more likely to buy products that their stylists and

styling options.”

barbers recommend.

– Terry Ritcey, Director of Education

salonmagazine.ca

Redken Canada

march.16

salon

creating a new look

Consultation is key. Find out what your client’s lifestyle is like, including his job, which will help you assess how far he is willing to go with a new look. Study the bone structure of his face and how much ink he is displaying. All these elements will give you clues about the new look you’ll want to suggest. “Guys are more easily sold into the full package today,” says Ritcey, “and because of men-specific education classes, stylists also feel more comfortable talking about brushed highlights and styling their beards and facial hair.” For your average guy, you now have the ability to take him from just getting a haircut to a colour service to camouflaging greys with three or four foils. And remember the big hair-painting trend, which is a fresh way to add a youthful brightness to his face. According to Goupil, “We’re moving away from undercuts and adding more technique and a lot more classic shapes.” Because of this trend, Goupil recommends that hairstylists really focus on their cutting skills through education. Goupil also thinks that bleached hair with a style reminiscent of the ’90s will be making a comeback in 2016. But he cautions against creating too many sharp angles on a buzz cut: “It looks too metrosexual,” he says, “and really you don’t want that.”

the barbering effect

“Men really don’t like the idea of going to a salon that’s too feminine,” says Parent. “If you want to have a thriving business for men and women, it’s always a good idea to create a separate area in your salon that caters specifically to men. The investment is worth it.” Even if your salon doesn’t have a traditional barber look and feel, you can create a specific men’s zone and offer add-ons that your male clients are looking for: hot towel on the face, scalp massages and nail grooming services. The point is, men have finally come of age. It’s now totally acceptable to go to the salon for a new cut, colour and (colourless or not!) manicure. In fact, some men who are sporting a fade actually go to the barber once a week for that perfectly groomed look. And remember to always book their next appointment before they leave.

s a l o n march.16

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

BARBERING

VS. MEN’S STYLING TR A I N I N G : S I M I LA R

Barbering According to Matty Conrad, owner of Victory Barber & Brand in Victoria, B.C., one of the fundamental differences between barbering and men’s styling is the fundamentals in training. As Conrad explains, “Barbers are taught to cut to men’s bone structure, which is square.”

C LI E NT EX P E R I E N C E : S I M I LA R

Enrico Compierchio, owner of Odyssée Salon Spa in Montreal and a Redken global artist, explains that barbering is “all about mastering the clipper work, from freehand clipper techniques to clipper-over-comb to working with guards and adaptors.” And while many barbers have reservations with using clipper guards, he reminds us that “it’s just like mastering any other tool.”

A traditional barbering client is a no-muss-

By Ashley Kowalewski

is always short. As Compierchio explains, “A guy will come in, say he wants a haircut, we’ll wash it and that’s it.” Conrad agrees: “A lot of barbershops work well on a walk-in model” because men don’t want to feel high-maintenance. “If a guy comes in and we’re booked, we’ll give him one of our ‘complimentary call-ahead cards’ so he won't have to wait the next time—that way we’re

more like his personal valet.”

hile more men are taking care of their appearance, there’s still a difference in how they approach it. From men’s styling in a unisex salon to a more traditional

“Men will buy products from where they get

(but updated) barbershop, we spoke to three pros to understand

their hair cut, and they’ll do it faithfully because R ETA I LI N G : SA M E

some of the differences and similarities between the two.

there’s a sense of trust and it’s convenient,” says Conrad, though he admits a lot of the more traditional barbershop settings are missing out on the retail aspect because there’s a misconception that men don’t buy products. Compierchio agrees, adding, “With men, the point.”

s a l o n march.16

▼

describing the product has got to be to

PHOTO: HAIR, STYLING AND PHOTO: CONTESSA 27 FINALIST, MEN'S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR MATTY CONRAD,VICTORY BARBER & BRAND,VICTORIA, B.C.

Two different settings but more similarities than you’d think.

TO O LS A N D TE C H N I Q U E S : D I F F E R E NT

no-fuss kind of guy, and the consultation

salonmagazine.ca

Why GBB Hair Extensions? GUARANTEED 100% First Grade Remy Hair CONSISTENT Quality Control ONE-STOP Shopping for all kinds of Hair Extensions MOST Recognized World Wide MOST Respected by Professionals MOST Advanced Technology

Organic Hair Extensions. GBB I-Lock Extensions. GBB Fusion Extensions. GBB Double-Tape Hidden Hair - Seamless Soft and Water Proof Classic Hair Extension Extensions. Water Proof Hand-Tied Tape Extensions, I-Tip, Reuseable System with Water Proof Tape and reusable Reusable up to 5 Times up to 5 Times - NEW! Keratine Bond up to 5 Times

GBB Clip-on Extensions. 8-Piece and 11-Piece available

GBB Machine Wefted Hair Extensions. Customized Extension System.

HAIR EXTENSION CLASS AVAILABLE t: 416.636.1988 • tf: 866.468.2205 • e: info@globalbestbeauty.com FOLLOW US!

TR A I N I N G : S I M I LA R

Men’s styling

Top tips

According to Conrad, who initially trained

Hairstyling is constantly evolving,

as a hairstylist, men’s styling cutting

so Conrad urges barbershops to stay

techniques follow suit with women’s,

ahead of the curve with ongoing

which have more textured styles and

education: “Salons don’t have to be

“more round, oval haircuts.” Training with

worried about losing female clientele

the tools themselves is another aspect that

to barbershops, but if barbers don’t

can take some adjustment, though one

focus on becoming more well rounded,

that can easily be changed because

history will repeat itself.”

many barbers come from a hairstyling

C LI E NT EX P E R I E N C E : S I M I LA R

education background.

In a hybrid barber-men’s styling setting,

Clippers and shears are intended to do

Donna Beyak, co-owner of The Men’s

different things. “They’re all different

Room in Edmonton, uses “shears, straight

machines intended to do different things,

razors and clippers,” as her clients aren’t

so you need to understand what that is,”

the typical barbershop clients that come in

explains Conrad.

just for a fade. “I’m trying for the upscale gentleman—I want the business guy,” she says, which means working in more

In Beyak’s experience of guys moving over

While hair salons are typically intended to

from a traditional barbering environment,

appeal to female clientele, adapting your

making them comfortable in their new

environment to appeal to men is key to

setting is a must. “You get the guy who

their experience. Many places, including

comes in and says ‘Just cut it’ and typically

Odyssée, are “doing designated areas

leaves the rest up to his barber,” she says.

that are spaces just for men, so they are

As with any client, you need to make sure

decorated a bit differently, will have sports

that you’re on the same page, so that

playing and may even serve beer.” For

means using lingo he’ll understand: “We

Beyak, she created a space that was less

try to equate everything to tools or finishes,

of the traditional “chop shop” barbershop

such as a ‘high-gloss,’” adds Beyak.

feel and more of an upscale salon just for

R ETA I LI N G : SA M E

men but still “feels like a man cave.”

For Beyak, a lot of her clients will buy

Retailing to male clients can be easier, but

products that get her stamp of approval:

Compierchio recommends starting during

“It has to be useful for them, so if I’m using

the consultation. “I ask my clients what

it, they have to have it.” But when it comes

they do with their hair when they get out

to upselling, “You have to build their trust

of the shower and I get all this information

and never push them.”

about their style and the products they’re using,” he says. “then I bring up the product I’m going to use without getting too in-depth.”

s a l o n march.16

PHOTO: REDKEN NATIONAL EDUCATION DIRECTOR:TERRY RITCEY, LEAD REDKEN ARTIST: ENRICO COMPIERCHIO, ASSISTANT REDKEN ARTIST: MARIE-JUSTINE DÉZIEL, ASSISTANT STYLIST: MARIE-SOPHIE TÉTRAULT, MAKEUP ARTISTS: MARIELAURE LARRIEU & JOELLE BOUCHER, PHOTO: MAXIME THIBODEAU, DESIGNER: CHRISTOPHER BATES

TO O LS A N D TE C H N I Q U E S : D I F F E R E NT

textured finishes.

salonmagazine.ca

It’s time to pick your favorite flowers with Gelish’s breathtaking Botanical Awakenings Collection. With six brand new shades including a lively, light coral, pink pearl, classic taupe, radiant hot red, and more, this assortment of delightful colors is budding with personality fit for anyone.

rose-Y Cheeks What’s Your Poinsettia? Don’t PansY arounD Warm uP the Car-nation i or-ChiD You not moDel is Wearing Prim-rose and ProPer

Prim-rose anD ProPer

Your Comprehensive

Clipper Guide We asked the pros to give us the rundown on the essential men’s grooming tool: clippers. Here’s what you need to look for when you buy your next pair.

“This power tool takes away the bulk of the hair without snagging or tugging, a fader creates cuts and tapers the hair to different levels, and an outliner finishes the haircut around the hairline and completes the haircut.” – A.S.

Motor head “Having a good blade speed, along with a pivot motor, allows you to cut hair efficiently, no matter what texture your client’s hair is, wet

By Anna Lee Boschetto

or dry.” – A.S.

Rest and repair

Sharp cut

“Spray the clippers with disinfectant and give

“Blade quality is most important, just like

them at least 15 minutes to dry. That means,

when you're searching for scissors. It’s all

you need to have two sets of everything so that

about performance. Look for high-quality

you can let one pair rest and use the other.”

stainless steel that can be easily cleaned and

– Andrea Sampson, ambassador and director

maintained.” – Kat Marcus, Wahl platform

of education for Dannyco Professional

artist and educator

Boasting a two-year

Essential attachments

Guided approach “The clipper guards are a great tool to guide

lifespan, the BaBylissPro

you when the section of hair you're cutting

features a brushless

is too short to hold in your fingers. Clippers

motor, making it

may have plastic guards or metal fixed blades.

a reliable pair to have

What’s the difference? Plastic guards always

in your kit. How it

leave a demarcation that must be removed

works: Ball-bearing

scissor over comb.” – K.M.

magnets move in a vibrations and making it more efficient than ones with carbon brushes that can wear down over time.

Hang up “Never wrap the cord around the clippers or hang it by the cord: Doing either can weaken the power connection. Instead, wrap your cord in a figure-eight pattern if you have to store it in a cupboard.” – K.M.

Grease and oil “Depending on how often you’re cutting hair, busy stylists or barbers have to oil their clippers a few times a day. Most of the time, For versatility, Wahl’s Lithium Ion Pro, a European model that features a fivein-one blade and guard, comes in cord and cordless versions. It’s a light but powerful clipper that works well for fades and precision cuts, including bobs.

s a l o n march.16

if clippers are pulling, it’s not due to sharpness but lubrication. Also, remember to keep the blades down to prevent any oil from going into the motor.” – A.S.

Grab on tight “When barbers are doing a haircut every 30 minutes, comfort is key. Look for clippers with a rubberized grip so they won’t slip or get so hot that your hand will sweat.” – A.S.

PHOTOS AND ILLUSTRATIONS: DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, WAHL CANADA,THINKSTOCK

circular motion, reducing

salonmagazine.ca

B E

IO SCULPTURE GEL LEADING NAIL CARE evolves...

TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT From the heart of a metropolitan centre to a serene rural road, these award-winning hairstylists prove that you can create an incredible photo collection no matter where you live. We asked for their best advice on planning your next photo shoot. By Anna Lee Boschetto & Yasmin Grothé

THE PHOTO PROS M I C HA E L C R I S P E L , J ES S I C A GAU V I N , R O S SA J U R E N AS , H E I D I K E N N EY, M I C H E LLE PA R G E E

FINDING A SHARPSHOOTER AC R O S S TH E N ATI O N Budget wisely “Choose a better photographer and find a way to make that the bulk of your budget,” says Contessa winner Rossa Jurenas, adding that it’s nice to have a clothing stylist, but the photographer is critical.

S M A LL TO W N Grow your team Rather than looking for a top photographer, Michelle Pargee suggests that you grow your photographer with your creative visions together and grow as a strong team.

B I G C ITY Keep it tight “When you have so many options, it’s important to find the right photographer who will really capture your vision,” explains Toronto-based hairstylist Michael Crispel. “You need a similar design esthetic because you want to capture everything on the spot rather than do work in post-production.”

M O N EY- SAV I N G TI P Expand your reach “You can find out which photographers may be travelling to your area to work on other projects, which means that you may be able to save on travel expenses,” explains Pargee.

s a l o n march.16

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ROSSA JUREAS, MICHAEL CRISPEL, HEIDI KENNEY AND JESSICA GAUVIN

the experience you have, which can also enable you to cultivate

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Stay InSpIred AC R O S S TH E N ATI O N

“Being from a small village, I didn’t have a mentor, but I learned a lot from watching the techniques and styles of other hairstylists in the salon I was working in.”

Keep an open mind “Look beyond magazines and celebrities, and I really believe in storyboards,” says Jurenas. She says it helps her stay focused as she builds

– Jessica Gauvin, Frelighsburg, Quebec

the concept and story for a photo shoot.

S M A LL TO W N Keep it simple “You don’t need the most complicated ideas in the world,” says

Michael Crispel draws inspiration from the Toronto streetscapes.

Pargee. “You need good, clean hair and a nice model. The simpler the shoot and the concept, the better it works.”

B I G C ITY Avoid distractions “When you’re in a big city, you have access to so much that there is a different expectation, but you need to stay true to yourself,” explains Crispel.

BuIldIng your team AC R O S S TH E N ATI O N Get the right mix “Chemistry is the most important quality in your team on a photo shoot,” explains Crispel, who adds that

“Create your point of view, inspire people—

having lengthy qualifications

even if it's only one or two—be proud of

won’t necessarily mean that

your work.”

everyone will work well on your team.

Top 3 Reasons to Shoot

On set, Jessica Gauvin takes time to fine-tune the details.

owners,“ says Jurenas, adding that many boutique owners

geographically, there’s nothing like

are willing to help, even for an

the creative experience of capturing

exchange of services.

your work on film.

– Heidi Kenney, Contessa 27 winner, Master Colourist

B I G C ITY

“The rush comes from the idea,

Stay focused “A pretty girl, clothing and hair doesn’t create

seeing the final result come to

a winning image,” explains Crispel. “Before a shoot, we get

life and knowing that it came from

together in person to get everyone on the same page, which

your imagination.” – Michelle Pargee

Find your people “Now, I’ll approach smaller shop

Wherever you are in your career or

S M A LL TO W N

“I found my photographer—a local guy from the Maritimes—by looking at the list provided on Salon Magazine’s website.”

really helps us stay on track.”

“I want to bring my work to a different level, and while it’s

model mayhem

more of a challenge to do that now

AC R O S S TH E N ATI O N

than when I was starting out, I still

Connect everywhere Michelle Pargee has developed an eagle

want my work to grow.” – Rossa Jurenas

eye for selecting models. Case in point: “At a restaurant drive-

be a hair model and gave her my card, which has a photo of my

through window, I told the girl taking my order that she should

“For me, it’s all about the process: piecing together the

work and my awards. She called me the next day. For every four

idea, seeing how it evolves into the

or five calls I get from people I’ve given my card to, at least two

final product, and the gratification that

will work out.”

comes from pushing myself to do

S M A LL TO W N

hair that is unique and inspiring and speaks to my clients.” – Michael Crispel

salonmagazine.ca

Creating a storyboard like Heidi Kenney's will keep the team inspired and organized.

Go social “Social media is a great platform to find models when you don't live in a big city or can’t afford to book professionals,” says Gauvin.

march.16

salon

Inspired by menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s runway and editorial collections from around the world, this collection creates an emotional connection that links simplicity in styling with self-expression.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n march.16

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Globe Trotting Hair: Marcus King, Hooker & Young Wynyard, Wynyard, U.K. Makeup: Megumi Matsuno Photos: Jack Eames

salonmagazine.ca

march.16

salon

Finalist, Contessa 27 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year: Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Makeup: Kim Desautels, Emily Cheng Styling: Alecia Ebbels, Wendy Cook Nails: Stefania Flex Photos: Kale Friesen

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

Taking points from various decades of style, this eclectic collection brings together a range of cuts, fun colours and unexpected styles.

HOT CHILD IN THE CITY salonmagazine.ca

march.16

salon

Finalist, Contessa 27 Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hairstylist of the Year: Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Makeup and styling: Paul Langill Photos: Mathew Guido

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

This Canadian collection presents a primal feel while still maintaining its current edge for menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s styling trends.

WARRIOR POSE salonmagazine.ca

march.16

salon

This collection glorifies the everyday, no-mussno-fuss man that is the hallmark of today’s trends in men’s grooming.

GUY’S

guy

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

Finalist, Contessa 27 Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hairstylist of the Year: Mandy Clark, Roxx Salon + Spa, Sherwood Park, Alta. Photos: David Ovelson

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

salonmagazine.ca

march.16

salon

Finalist, Contessa 27 Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year: Anthony Crosfield, Union Salon, Vancouver Makeup: Jaylene McRae Styling: Hemingway Ladouceur Photos: Ray McEachern

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

Modern crops paired with more delicate styles are balanced out for a collection that uses a soft portraiture treatment as its common thread.

salonmagazine.ca

the mix march.16

salon

Pastel metallic, subtle braided details and peacock-approved colours make this fresh collection a welcome addition to spring.

queens

of colour

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

Finalist, Contessa 27 Canadian Colourist of the Year: Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Makeup: Renee Rampersad Styling: Michelle Oliver Photos: Amanda Diaz

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

salonmagazine.ca

march.16

salon

Finalist, Contessa 27 Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year: Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Montreal Makeup: Marie-Laure Larrieu Styling: Pascal & JĂŠrĂŠmie Photos: Larissa Lognay

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n march.16

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

SPACE JAM The Jetsons meet haute couture in this futuristic but sophisticated collection that makes a sleek statement.

salonmagazine.ca

march.16

salon

Hair: David Corbett, David Corbett Hairdressing, Glasgow, U.K. Makeup: Lan Nguyen-Grealis Photos: John Rawson

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n march.16

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

From defined cuts to loose textures, this British Hairdressing Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2015 collection exhibits the strength and dynamic energy of the current menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hairstyling movement.

Technical Strength salonmagazine.ca

march.16

salon

SCOTLAND CALLING

Conventional meets unconventional when you put together oldschool styles with contemporary finishes like fades and superdefined parts.

Finalist, Contessa 27 Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hairstylist of the Year: Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Styling: Wendy Cook Photos: Alex Watson

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

only in theaters the huntsman ColleCtion from

with FROST COAT

FROST COAT

IT’S OWL ABOUT POWER with FROST COAT

BRAVEST OF THEM ALL

Available at Fine Salons

with FROST COAT

AIM TO CHILL

with FROST COAT

WOMAN IN THE MIRROR

with FROST COAT

ENCHANTED BEAUTY

CONTESSA GALLERY

CONTESSA 27 FINALIST, MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Sarah “Maki” Mak has worked in the industry for about five years—and entering the Contessas for just about as long. Though she got her start as a hairstylist a little later, after earning her degree, she realized her true passion and made the career switch.

hen Sarah “Maki” Mak set out to

especially in this case. Mak incorporated a lot

create her collection for the 2016

of elements from the video—including the

Contessa Awards, she got her

must-have “guy-liner”—but in a much more

inspiration from a very unlikely source.

approachable way, which is mirrored in the

BOY BAND

hair colour. “Every time I watched the video, I

“When I first started entering the Contessa Awards, I would just wing my collections, but each year I focused a little more on a theme,” she explains, adding that her theme this year surprised even her. “My boyfriend showed me this music video called ‘Bang Bang Bang’ by this K-pop band called Big Bang and, at first, I thought it was way too over-the-top crazy,” she explains. “After watching it a few times, I was totally inspired by the clothes, the makeup and the hair—all the craziness of it.”

TRANSLATING STYLE Like every good stylist will tell you, the key is to be inspired without copying your inspiration—

s a l o n march.16

“I lightened all of the models' hair first and then used a combination of silver-blonde with some intensifiers to get the colour I wanted.”

“I used this to prep my models’ hair because it gives a lot of texture and grip and helps hold the hair in place, especially for slippery hair.”

would see something else I wanted to include,” says Mak, adding that her love of shopping and accessorizing helps make fashion her starting point for photo shoots: “One of the best parts about putting a collection together, besides the hair, is the clothes.”

KEVIN.MURPHY ANTI.GRAVITY

MOROCCANOIL LUMINOUS HAIRSPRAY

“I finished off the looks with this hairspray because it is so lightweight and flexible but still tames the frizz.”

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; HAIR: MAKI MAK, ZINC HAIR, VANCOUVER; MAKEUP: MIN-JEE MOWAT; PHOTO: NIKO-LUX; INSPIRATION IMAGE: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

Maki Mak

JOICO COLOR INTENSITY ORCHID

salonmagazine.ca

tthh U AALL NU

AANN N

Enter your vote for your chance to win two tickets to this year’s Contessa Awards Gala on Sunday, November 9, 2016, plus overnight accommodations in Toronto!

BE THE PRODUCT HERO!

VOTING BEGINS APRIL 1 AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/RCA NO PURCHASE PURCHASE NECESSARY. NECESSARY. Contest Contest sponsored sponsored and and administered administered by by Salon Salon Communications Communications Inc. Inc. (“Salon”). (“Salon”). Contest Contest open open to to Canadian Canadian residents, residents, except except residents residents of of Quebec, Quebec, who who are are at at time time of of entry entry of of age age of of majority majority in in province/territory province/territory of of NO residence. To To enter, enter, you you must must complete complete entry entry form form located located online online at at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit Limit of of 11 entry entry per per entrant. entrant. Contest Contest begins begins at at 99 a.m. a.m. EST EST on on April April 1, 1, 2014 2016 and and ends ends at at 55 p.m. p.m. EST EST on on April April 15, 15, 2014 2016 (( “Contest “Contest Period”). Period”). One One residence. random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 22, 2016 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 21, 2014 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling lling all all Offi Official cial Contest Contest Rules Rules && Regulations, Regulations, including including mathematical mathematical skill-testing skill-testing question question and and signing signing aa release, release, the the selected selected entrant entrant will will be be eligible eligible to to win win two two (2) (2) tickets tickets to to the the 2014 2017 Contessa Contessa Gala, Gala, plus plus overnight overnight accommodation accommodation in in Toronto Toronto in in aa fulfi occupancy room, approximate retailCDN value$600. CDN Airfare $600. Airfare not included. restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: salonmagazine.ca/rca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.by law. doubledouble occupancy room, approximate retail value not included. CertainCertain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted

SALON PROFILE

Calling the Shots After spending some time away from the brand he founded more than 20 years ago, American Crew’s David Raccuglia is energized and excited as he ushers in the next evolution of men’s grooming. By Anna Lee Boschetto

Why was Elvis Presley such a perfect partnership for American Crew?

DAVID RACCUGLIA:

At the time, you look at River Phoenix and he was put together—very cool, with argyle sweaters and sideburns coming in. They were cutting off all the craziness and really shaping their look. That’s when I was young and

Globally, Elvis Presley is such a relevant figure.

styling hair, and I realize there was a need for

There’s no one better as a brand that we can

a nod to vintage American—bringing it back to

celebrate. Elvis morphed African-American

a time when men were buying products and

music into his own version of rock music.

were really well put together.

Every pompadour in the world is a nod to Elvis Presley—anyone who wears a pompadour

SM: Looking ahead, what do you see for

is paying homage to him. In this time of

men’s hair?

fun, classic men’s hair, there is no one more

DR: The way I define men’s hair right now

relevant. You have to pay tribute to the king of the pompadour.

SM: You noticed that there was going to be a revolution for men’s grooming back in the ’90s. Is that similar today or has it changed?

DR: We’re living at a time when I can see

is a bit old school and a bit new school. I think there will always be a trend for both, so you can’t just say what’s going to be on trend. Men who are very old school—who love a lot of grease and handlebar moustaches—aren’t going to abandon that, but they will adapt it to a trend within that look. In new school, that’s

the evolution coming again, as I did in the

where you’ll see texture, shape and more of

’90s. When you look back at the ’90s at bands

a rock and roll look. Hair will get a bit longer,

like The Replacements and Nirvana, their hair

with more texture. Maybe we’ll go back to the

wasn't unkempt. There was also incredible

’90s, a very bohemian time when guys were

hairstyling in movies like Gus Van Sant’s

very artistic. I sense a bit of honouring that

Drugstore Cowboy and My Own Private Idaho.

soon in our future.

s a l o n march.16

#TBT to our March 1999 cover, which David Raccuglia also shot.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF DAVID RACCUGLIA

SALON MAGAZINE:

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

about david 1992: Opened Art + Science Salon in Chicago and has since expanding to four over the past two decades. 1995: Founded American Crew, and was principle photographer for the brand. CELEBRITY RESUMÉ: Jack Nicholson, Rob Lowe, Ray Charles and Iggy Pop.

SM: As far as photography is concerned, what motivates you and piques your interest?

DR: I’ve always loved photography—it’s my art. In high school, I had a dark room in my home and I was kind of a photo geek, but I never wanted to do it for a living. Once I became a hairstylist, I loved to be on photo shoots. Even though I went to barber school, I was a women’s hairstylist and worked on campaigns for different brands. I started watching the photographers and realizing the power you have when you look through the camera. It’s very important for me to make a photo that makes me happy—there’s a sense of accomplishment that comes with that.

SM: What does being behind the camera teach you as a hairstylist? DR: When I look through the camera, I look at all four corners of the frame. Then I look at the hair and I ask myself, “How would this look inspire a hairstylist?” I’m looking at the shape, the angle and how it can be executed. Most photographers rely on the hairstylist, but I rely on my own experience. Because of my hair background first and my photography experience second, I end up being pretty obsessive.

SM: What will American Crew look like in 2016? DR: What we’re really doing is revamping the brand’s commitment to the hairstylist. We understand who our customer is and we’re going to help professionals speak to their clients. I have to keep quiet and listen to the incredibly cool, young people who work with me. I’m in a place where I can influence the decision, but I study their lifestyles and recognize that American Crew needs to continue to be the brand you can count on.

salonmagazine.ca

march.16

salon

salon business

The Cost of Doing

Business Increasing your service prices: how to do it the right way.

“I like to do it in the fall, before the holidays,

with being a salon owner can

as clients are often very loyal at that time

be difficult, but increasing your

of year, instead of waiting until after the

service prices is a large part of the success

holidays when everyone is [cutting back on

of your salon. We spoke to Tony Ricci, owner

spending].” Bottom line: It has to work for your

of Ricci Hair Co. in Edmonton, and Silas

salon, and the only way to determine that is

Tsang, owner of Blushes in Ottawa, about

by looking at your books and speaking with

how they tackle this necessary part of

your clients.

business—and how they did it without losing clients along the way.

2. How to do it

1. When to do it

Increasing service prices is all part of the

3. How to make it worthwhile

business, and it’s common to follow suit with

When asking your clients to pay more for

There’s no set rule about the best time to

inflation and the growing cost of living. Tsang

their cuts or colour services, you need to be

look at increasing your service prices, but

explains that your increases should always

willing to add more value to their services,

Tsang explains, “We evaluate ours on an

be justified. If clients ask why there was an

ensuring their extra money isn’t being wasted.

annual basis,” though that doesn’t mean they

increase, “Letting your clients understand

“We spend more time with our clients and

implement an increase every year. Though

your reasoning and motive [for the increase]

offer them a better cup of coffee—anything

many salons reassess each year, Ricci adds

promotes transparency and makes you more

that we can add to their service to make their

that every two years is reasonable, too. “We

accessible to your clients,” will hopefully

overall experience better,” explains Ricci.

watch what the market does,” he says. “If

prevent your clients from leaving for another

“The education level in the hairstyling world

you raise your prices during a recession, it

salon. If the occasional client does take issue

is so high right now that everybody is a good

could hurt you more than doing it during a

with the price increase, Ricci will honour the

stylist, but it’s the experience you provide that

boom,” explains Ricci. As for the time of year,

old price for that visit, but the next time they

is going to make the difference.” Tsang agrees

Tsang explains, “If we decide to implement an

come in, the price will go up; then they have

that “pre- and post-service treatments add

increase, we do it at the beginning of the year.”

the choice of knowing the total cost before

to the amazing calibre of customer service,”

Ricci prefers the latter part of the year, saying

their next visit and they can decide.

adding value while justifying the price.

s a l o n march.16

TEXT: ASHLEY KowALEwSKi; PHoToS:THinKSTocK

anaging the finances that come

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS DO HAVE A VOICE LOCALLY AND NATIONALLY. WE TRY TO EXPRESS YOUR CONCERNS AND ASSERT YOUR RIGHTS TO: Health Canada / Environment Canada / Industry Canada / Office Québécois de la Langue Française / Ministries for Colleges and Apprenticeship / Advertising Standards Canada (the watchdog for truth in advertising) / Health and Safety Agencies across Canada

WE DO THIS BECAUSE CANADA’S BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS MAKE UP THE LARGEST PART OF THE ALLIED BEAUTY ASSOCIATION. Your ABA works to ensure the security, health, welfare, standards and success of all members. Also, Client Safety is your business. It’s our business. It’s good business! When you purchase a ticket to your local ABA show, you’re buying more than world class education, great products and business development skills.

When you purchase your ABA Show ticket, you’re investing in a piece of your future.

ABA TORONTO

ABA MONTRÉAL

ABA EDMONTON

ABA VANCOUVER

ABA CALGARY

Feb 28-29, 2016

Mar 20-21, 2016

May 1-2, 2016

May 15-16, 2016

Oct 2-3, 2016

MTCC North Building

Palais des Congrès

Northlands Expo Centre

Vancouver Convention Centre East

Calgary Stampede Park - BMO Halls

For ABA show tickets or information on joining the ABA please visit www.abacanada.com

PHOTOS: CONTESSA 27 FINALIST, SALON INTERIOR DESIGN: CONCRETE BLONDE, SHERWOOD PARK, ALTA., PHOTOS: NICOLE ZIEGLER

SALON INTERIORS

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca

s a l o n march.16

salonmagazine.ca

Everybody In One Alberta salon aims to create a space that as friendly for the guys as it is for the girls. By Ashley Kowalewski

esigning a space that attracts a balance of male clients in a unisex salon can be tricky, offering an environment that is both warm with a calming vibe but isn’t too “feminine.”

Chad Stewart, co-owner of Concrete Blonde in Sherwood Park, Alta., spoke about the different facets of the salon and how he and his team created a space that was inviting for everyone.

MakIng a Man cavE “Our clientele is split about 60/40 for men and women, so the demand for a [men’s space] was there,” explains Stewart. It was important for Concrete Blonde to be a welcoming and belonging space for both men and women without fully separating the two. “We do all kinds of men’s services, including manicures, pedicures and waxing,” says Stewart. He adds that Concrete Blonde even has some couples who come in together, and he explains they have to incorporate a shaving chair and more men’s grooming education for his staff.

SplIt pErSonalIty What most people don’t see when they initially walk into the salon is how much more area the space encompasses. “Behind the barn wood door is our spa, where we do esthetic services and have a full-time tattoo artist,” explains Stewart. He adds that he wanted to make the space a one-stop shop for everyone.

Details Opened 2014 Design Chad Stewart and Elena Kyle Space 2,700 square feet Team 12 salon staff 5 spa staff 1 support staff

salonmagazine.ca

Brands Schwarzkopf Professional Kevin.Murphy R + Co Dermalogica CND Website concreteblondehairbody.com

march.16

salon

salon events

Celebrating 135 Years of Wella at TrendVision 2015!

1. Hosted by Patrick Cameron, TrendVision was

Details: More than 1,100 beauty and business professionals from around the

also an opportunity

world descended on Berlin for Wella’s International TrendVision Awards. Presented

for the brand to

on Sunday November 22, competitors arrived in town nearly a week before to

celebrate its 135-

prep models for the show. Among the 33 countries participating were Canadian

year anniversary with

finalists Ilona Garson of Ottawa’s Jet Black Hair & Studio for ColorVision and

business partners,

Union Salon’s Paige Ingram from Vancouver for Young Talent.

salon partners and

When & Where: November 19 to 23 in Berlin

hairstylists.

PHOTOS COUrTeSY Of WeLLA

2. following the awards, Wella’s creative directors, eugene Souleiman and Josh Wood, presented the TrendVision collections for 2016: Spring/Summer (Molten ecaille) and Autumn/Winter (Bronde Luxe).

s a l o n march.16

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

salon events

3. Although Canadians didn’t walk away with an award, both Garson and Ingram agree that TrendVision is about so much more than winning. “It’s incredibly inspiring to see the work here from around the world,” says Ingram. “No matter what, I know I’ll be back again next year because I learn so much.”

4. For Garson, it’s been a jammed year that’s not slowing down anytime soon. Along with competing in Berlin, she also experienced the break-neck speed of backstage styling at New York Fashion Week—an experience that she won as a TrendVision finalist.

salonmagazine.ca

november+decemberm m a y + aj ur nc he . 1 36

salon

salon events

World MasterCard Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016

Details: Toronto was buzzing at David Pecaut Square for the World MasterCard Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2016 shows. Jorge Joao, lead artist for Redken, and Rita Remark, global lead educator and lead nail artist for Essie Canada, along with their teams, paved the way for a week filled with ‘70s glam and

2. Joao incorporated some edgy elements, like the line of three side braids spotted at Rachel Sin, but it was the soft, loose waves that made the whole week feel ultra-feminine.

next-generation nail art. When & Where: October 19 to 23 in Toronto PhOTOS COuRTESy OF SalOn STaFF, REDkEn CanaDa anD ESSiE CanaDa

1. While some designers chose a more natural ‘70s-inspired wave, it was Pink Tartan that really made the throwback statement. Joao explained, “We’re doing a lot more of a ‘70s feel with lots of volume and bounce,” explains Joao.

4. For Remark, creating looks like the ones at Mikhael kale, Matthew Gallagher, Mackage and lucian Matis means “the polish is getting lesser and lesser on the nail, but the effect is getting bigger and bigger.”

3. This season was a bit of a departure of what we’ve seen in the past for nail art. “We’re entering into an age where having over-the-top nail art is so passé, but having a regular manicure is boring,” explains Remark.

s a l o n march.16

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

SALON SCOOP

1 ON THE MOVE! Candy Shaw, creator of

Sunlights Balayage and owner of Jamison Shaw Hairdressers in Atlanta, has been appointed

BRANCH OUT

as New Membership Chairman ofIntercoiffure America/Canada after serving in a variety of roles for the salon organization. Her new role will encompass liaising between new and prospective members and the Board of Directors, where she previously served.

PHOTOS: JAMISON SHAW, COSMETOLOGISTS CHICAGO

2 IN MEMORIAM

This past November, the industry lost long-time hairstylist and business leader Jerry Gordon. As the co-owner of his Chicago salon, J. Gordon Designs, with his wife, Karen, president of Cosmetologists Chicago, vice-president ofIntercoiffure America/ Canada and a business and industry educator, he spent most of his life working as a hairstylist and continued to work until afew days prior to his passing. Last year, Cosmetologists Chicagocreated the Jerry Gordon Salon Business Leadership Award to honour not just salon and business excellence, which will be awarded each year at America's Beauty Show in Chicago.

Help Plant Our Urban Forests

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 183 Bathurst Street, Suite 202, Toronto, Ontario, M5T 2R7, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059. Volume 25, Issue 3.

salonmagazine.ca

november+decemberm m a y + aj ur nc he . 1 36

salon

SALON BY THE NUMBERS

Man, Oh Man

The guys’ grooming industry is booming—and not just for your clients. We break down some of our favourite guy-loving brands to see how they stack up to products, educators and men’s-only spaces.

1,000 REDKEN

16 number of Redken for Men products

GO24.7

number of GO24.7 products

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 5

80 EUFORA

number of shades in Redken for Men Color Camo

number of Eufora Hero for Men trainers

number of male stylists or platform artists that work for Schwarzkopf Professional

number of men’sspecific products in the Schwarzkopf Professional 3DMen collection

number of Eufora Hero for Men stylist and barber educators

number of Eufora Hero for Men products

PHOTOS AND ILLUSTRATIONS: THINKSTOCK

number of salons that carry Redken for Men products

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

salonmagazine.ca

the joi of healthy color

#getglossy with

Caramelt ShineNow Technique ™

“This client fave is a super-easy technique for creating a luminous, multidimensional glow on deep mahogany tresses. It’s stunning on camera and in person!” Celebrity Colorist Denis de Souza, Andy Lecompte Salon, West Hollywood

Learn this and other exclusive ShineNow techniques by visiting JOICOCANADA.COM

Joico Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada Ltd, Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5N3 ®

HAIR Joico Artistic Team

COLOR Denis de Souza

PHOTO Hama Sanders