Salon Magazine, November/December 2017 by Salon Communications Inc.

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LIKE A BOSS: HOW TO KEEP BUSINESS BOOMING

Beauty of

29 T H A N N UA L CO N T ES SA AWA R D FI N A L I S T S !

CHANGE NOVEMBER+DECEMBER 17 $5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

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Features 32

Red Carpet, Recreated

Giving Back

Maximize Your Downtime

Collections

Canadian Hairstylist of the Year 2018 Finalists

A recap of some of this year’s hottest red-carpet hairstyles, with tips from the experts and their go-to products for recreating the looks.

It’s the season of giving, and these five salons paid it forward in a big way to help their communities. Learn how you can get involved, too.

We all dread the downtime we face in the salon following the busy holiday season. Find out ways to use this time productively and to set yourself up for success.

Tracey Devine-Smith; Ken Picton; James Abu Ulba, Roch Lemay, Rachel Nixon, Anna Pacitto & Lina Shamoun; Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks; Servilles Creative Team; Michael Beal & Chinney Yeap; Liana King; Sassoon Professional; Joey Marchese and Paul Pereira for Schwarzkopf Professional Osis+ Session Label; Sanja Scher; Haute Coiffure Française; Scott Condon

Announcing the finalists for the 29th annual Contessa Awards!

ON THE COVER: Hair: Tracey Devine-Smith for Affinage, London, U.K. Makeup: Maddie Austin Styling: Desiree Lederer

46 SERVILLES CREATIVE TEAM LED BY FRANK APOSTOLOPOULOS, SERVILLES, NEW ZEALAND

Photos: Richard Miles

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

Regulars

Editor’s Letter

Publisher’s Note

SalonMagazine.ca

Hairlines

Contessa Gallery

Profile

A Year in Review

Interiors

Events + Scoop

Best Nine

MICHAEL BEAL & CHINNEY YEAP, BUOY SALON AND SPA, NEW ZEALAND

SASSOON PROFESSIONAL, U.K.

This month at SalonMagazine.ca.

Change things up this season with the latest care, colour and styling must-haves, plus our holiday nail polish picks.

Kelsey Fitzpatrick, Contessa 28 finalist, Makeup Artist of the Year

Changing Inspiration, Darren Ambrose

As the old adage goes, hindsight is 20/20. But taking the time to reflect on the year can help improve your business. We spoke with the experts for their dos and don’ts when evaluating your business.

Reading Between the Design: Space Salon, Vancouver and The Cellar Salon, Toronto

40 60

KEN PICTON, KEN PICTON SALON, U.K.

HAUTE COIFFURE FRANÇAISE, PARIS

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

THE BEGINNING Your journey to beautiful hair starts with Moroccanoil Treatment: the foundation for all hair care and styling. Discover more at Moroccanoil.com

ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y

ANTI BREAK SUPER BLEACHING POWDER

EDITOR’S LETTER

Shift Your Energy

his time of year the Salon offices are buzzing with energy. Between the magazine and Contessa Awards—plus the myriad of must-see hair shows that crop up every few

weeks—there’s a constant hum of activity surrounding us (not that we’re complaining). All this extra activity causes a churn of positive energy, which is a very good thing when applied to projects we’re tackling. It also helps propel our creativity to new levels, and often exactly at the moment we require a fresh jolt of perspective. Similarly, I imagine this is how our Contessa finalists feel as

Today it is possible to perform a number of hair bleaching processes in one day while paying heed to the hair's health and reaching the desired results using the Anti Break Super Bleaching Powder. Anti Break Super Bleaching Powder can create a perfect light color shade while causing 86% less damage to the hair fiber compared to bleaching processes using traditional powder.

they put together their collection submissions. (We announced the finalists in our newsletter and online at SalonMagazine.ca, but you can also find the list of 2018 Contessa finalists on p.66.) As anyone who has ever created a collection can vouch, the road to success begins with a creative vision, and a major requirement for that vision to come to life is having the energy needed to kick-start the process. Bringing your concept to completion not only takes time, but a heaping dose of determination, as well. There needs to be tunnel vision focus to see the idea come to fruition. Whether you’re a finalist or spectator, as you peruse our 2018 Contessa finalist gallery online or in-person at our gala on November energy required to achieve a finalist nomination, and think about what would have fuelled each nominee to create the work they did. It's an interesting perspective to consider, and one that may add insight to your own process as you plan your next collection.

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

12, we invite you to think about the process. Hone in on the creative

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 26 issue 15 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto

416.869.3131 ext.102

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie Gallant

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

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Veronica Boodhan 416.869.3131 ext.119 DIGITAL MEDIA COORDINATOR

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Do you manage your clients’ experience from start to finish? Could you be doing more to improve their time in the chair, and if so, is this and leadership in the salon. Good service is often overlooked and many people may feel they offer a stellar experience, but that’s often not the case. In order to set the bar high in this business, quality customer interaction goes a very long way. And similar to a standout experience in your favourite restaurant, only salons offering exceptional service in hair care will attract new and repeat clients. Make yours one of them!

Laura Dunphy Publisher

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PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

a priority? I believe a lot of success in this realm starts with attitude

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SEXY HAIR’S EXPRESS YOURSELF CHALLENGE The winners of the Sexy Hair’s Express Yourself Challenge discuss their winning looks as they anticipate attending the Alternative Hair Show in London, U.K.

SO YOU THINK YOU CAN STYLE? Amanda Thompson of London, Ont. who won our “So You Think You Can Style?” Updos photo competition. Visit SalonMagazine.ca to find out what inspired this winning look!

29TH ANNUAL CONTESSA AWARDS! Don’t miss out! Get your tickets now for the 2018 Contessa Awards Gala and experience the biggest night in Canadian beauty.

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THE BEST IN HAIR COLLECTIONS Explore the hair collections of award-winning stylists, including this collection by British hairstylist Paul Falltrick at SalonMagazine.ca!

SalonMag

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See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections! SalonMagazine

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: PAUL FALLTRICK, MAKEUP: ELIZABETH RITA, STYLING: MASHA MOMBELLI, PHOTOS: BARRY JEFFERY; HAIR: AMANDA THOMPSON, MAKEUP: HILARY GRIMM, STYLING:VALENTINA BRIDAL & COUTURE, PHOTO: JANE LITTLE; HAIR: JENNY BELL

Congratulations to

Salon Magazine

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Julius, Stylist Berussti Salon | Mexico City, Mexico

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HAIRLINES NEWS

BONDING WITH COLOUR Colour, condition and strengthen hair with the new Viral Hybrid Colorditioner with BondFix from Celeb Luxury.

Fashionable Flair GET RICH COLOUR WHILE PROTECTING HAIR’S INTEGRITY WITH SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL IGORA ROYAL FASHION LIGHTS PERMANENT HIGHLIGHT COLOR CRÈME.

While bonders have made their way

We all know the importance of bonding systems,

into colour and care products, Celeb

when it comes to helping protect hair from

Luxury is taking them a step further

breakage. Schwarzkopf Professional has added

by adding a built-in bond rebuilder

its Fibre Bond Technology to its newly relaunched

to their Viral Hybrid Colorditioner.

Igora Royal Fashion Lights Permanent Highlight

With 10 shades ranging from pastels

Color Crème. Offering up to five levels of lift

to vivids, Viral Hybrid Colorditioner

and toning in one step, the revamped formula’s

with BondFix provides an all-in-one

integrated Fibre Bond Technology minimizes

solution to conditioning, colouring and

breakage and eliminates the need for a bonding

strengthening hair. Its Bondurance

additive. The colour line is formulated with an

complex helps rebuild and repair

intense pigment combination of ultra-vibrant dye

disulfide bonds as well as hydrogen

boosters and a unique blend of high-performance

and ionic bonds for improved

pigments for increased tone luminosity and

manageability, creating hair that’s up to

vibrancy for long-lasting, radiant colour. In addition

three times stronger. Lasting up to five

to the relaunched formula, the brand has unveiled

shampoos, Viral Hybrid Colorditioner

three dynamic new shades—dark blue, dark green

puts an end to client concerns about

and muted rose.

colour fading and hair damage.

Reimagining Style PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: CELEB LUXURY, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, GOLDWELL

Goldwell revamps its StyleSign styling line with improved technology and new products. Styling products are an integral part of a client’s salon experience, and can also be very personal for both the client and stylist. With that in mind, Goldwell has revamped its beloved StyleSign collection with a modern design, innovative technology and six new products. Within StyleSign’s five product segments—Ultra Volume, Just Smooth, Perfect Hold, Curly Twist and Creative Texture—the line enables you to provide a customized styling experience for all clientele. StyleSign’s Smooth Control Smoothing Blow Dry Spray helps speed up drying time while improving hair’s manageability. Soft Tamer Taming Lotion controls frizz and adds a glossy finish. Curl Control Moisturizing Curl Cream tames unruly curls and adds definition, and Curl Splash Hydrating Curl Gel gives weak curls a boost of bounce and texture. Texturizer Texturizing Mineral Spray helps create undone wavy texture while adding body. Magic Finish Non-Aerosol Hair Spray gives hair flexible hold and shine while also offering humidity protection.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

HAIRLINES NEWS

Smoke Show ADD A SMOKEY EFFECT TO YOUR COLOUR SERVICES THIS SEASON WITH REDKEN’S LATEST COLOUR TECHNIQUES. Recently, we’ve seen several makeup trends being translated into hair colouring techniques. Next up: the smokey eye look. Redken has put a twist on the trend by creating Smokey Ombré. Using the brand’s Smokey Ombré Blur Brush, which has been inspired by a makeup brush, stylists can easily create precise, even strokes of colour and seamlessly blur colour between shades. For more about this smokey blur trend, go to page 28.

The More, The Merrier Joico adds 16 new shades to its beloved LumiShine line. The brand’s demi-permanent liquid colour line is expanding with the addition of 16 new shades. From grey coverage to gloss, the new shades feature Joico’s ArgiPlex Technology with arginine replacement system, patented conditioning complex and quadramine complex, which provides up to twice as much shine while re-strengthening hair from the inside out. With these new additions, the brand’s LumiShine portfolio grows to more than 30 shades.

TOOLBOX Sleep mode activates after 30 minutes of inactivity

“You can easily add a pop of interest to any hairstyle through crimping. It creates amazing texture that instantly revives a look, it can be edgy and overthe-top, but can also be soft, subtle, and totally wearable. A crimper is an essential tool in any

Heats up to 365°F for less damage

hairstylist’s kit.” — JUSTINE MARJAN, CELEBRITY HAIRSTYLIST AND GHD BRAND AMBASSADOR

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

Multi-dimensional plates for endless styling options

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: REDKEN CANADA, JOICO, GHD

GHD Contour

Advanced ceramic heat technology

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MALIBU C ARTISTRY

HAIRLINES NEWS

THINKgreen

GREEN LIGHT

Conscious Conservation

Change up your colour formulations with Kevin.Murphy Green.Booster. Since Pantone named Greenery its Color of the Year for 2017, we’ve been seeing variations of the

Green Circle Salons and Fleming

shade everywhere. However, green is much more

College team up to research new

than a colour and can be used in various types of

innovations for human hair.

colour services. Case in point: Kevin.Murphy Green. Booster, which can be added to all Kevin.Murphy

Green Circle Salons has long

Color.Me shades. Whether it’s to enhance colour,

been recognized for its work

offset underlying pigment, or used in combination

in repurposing hair to preserve

to create unique colour, this versatile new product

the environment. Recently,

is a must-have for your colour kit. Formulated with

the organization announced its

naturally derived ingredients, Green.Booster is

collaboration with Fleming College’s

also “green” for the environment, as it contains

Centre for Alternative Wastewater

recyclable packaging. Kate Reid, Color.Me design

Treatment (CAWT) in Lindsay,

director, says she enjoys Green.Booster’s versatility

Ont., to conduct a research project

in creating bespoke results, and she considers it to

to assess how human hair can

be a staple for any salon.

be used as absorbent for storm water filtration. While it’s known that hair has the ability to collect petrochemicals from water, this project will use hair collected from

C O LO U R C HAM ELEO N

Green Circle Salons’ member

“Heat up” your colour routine with Pravana’s Vivids Mood Color.

Through our program, certified

their hair colour almost as often as they change their clothes. And while it’s great for business, it’s not always good for their hair. Clients can now explore colourful combinations with Pravana Vivids Mood Color. Available in four shades, it’s the first reactive temporary hair colour that changes whenever heat is applied.

contaminants can also be collected. “Green Circle and our member salons are committed to keeping people and the planet beautiful. salons ensure that tough-to-recycle materials like foils, colour tubes, leftover hair dye chemicals and hair clippings do not enter our environment as waste, but rather add value to our economy as a reusable resource,” says Shane Price, founder and CEO of Green Circle Salons. “It’s our hope that this research project with Fleming College will shine a light on yet another planet-positive purpose for hair. This research project is an important step on the pathway to true sustainability for our industry.”

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KEVIN.MURPHY, PRAVANA

Let’s face it: Some clients change

salons to determine which other

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

HAIRLINES NEWS

AGELESS colour Reverse the signs of aging with Age Denied by TIGI copyright©olour. Clients of all ages appreciate the appearance of healthy, youthful, multidimensional hair colour—especially those who have started to lose their hair’s body and pigment as they age. To counteract hair’s natural process of becoming dull, dry and coarse, TIGI copyright©olour has released Age Denied, an anti-aging permanent colour range containing 14 pre-blended shades that offer up to three levels of lift. Formulated with the brand’s Age Denied Rejuvenating Complex of anti-aging ingredients, it helps restore hair’s vitality and boosts shine to provide clients with a renewed sense of self-confidence.

BOOSTER SHOT Add texture and volume with Bosley Professional Strength BosVolumize Ultra Boost Styling Crème. For clients with thinning hair or scalp concerns, it can often be difficult to find a product that’s effective without weighing down their hair. Bosley Professional Strength’s BosVolumize Ultra Boost Styling Crème is rich in nutrients and antioxidants like gingko biloba and adding shine and moringa oleifera seed oil for moisturizing and strengthening strands. The styling crème creates movable texture with a semi-matte finish, while also conditioning hair and creating volume for weightless results.

LEVEL UP SHU UEMURA COLLABORATES WITH NINTENDO’S SUPER MARIO BROS. FOR ITS HOLIDAY 2017 COLLECTION. Talk about a throwback! Shu Uemura is bringing back the ’80s with its collaboration with the video-game giant Nintendo for the holidays. Whether you prefer Mario, Princess Peach or Bowser, get nostalgic and take a trip down memory lane with the Super Mario Bros. fourpiece haircare line: Cleansing Oil Shampoo, Cleansing Oil Conditioner, Essence Absolue Nourishing Protective Oil and Master Wax.

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE:TIGI, SHU UEMURA, BOSLEY PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH

kernel oil for conditioning and protecting hair, argan oil for smoothing

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CHINA GLAZE Take clients to ultra-glam levels with The Glam Finale’s collection of bold shades, such as metallic glittery Disco Ball Drop.

Breaking Barriers LAVERNE COX COLLABORATES WITH ORLY ON A LIMITED-EDITION NAIL POLISH COLLECTION.

ESSIE Add a chic touch to your clients’ New Year’s Eve looks with Essie’s winter collection of opulent shades like metallic Social Lights.

Best-known for her role on the hit TV series Orange is the New Black, Laverne Cox is trying her “hand” at a new role as the new beauty ambassador for ORLY. Collaborating with the brand on Celebrate Yourself, a six-piece limited-edition nail polish line, Cox debuted the collection at the 2017 Emmys Awards. Manicurist

OPI Fall in love with Love OPI, XOXO’s collection of holiday-inspired shades like metallic Charcoal Coalmates.

Denise Kelley combined the black shimmery Androgynie shade with gunmetal Shine for a stunning two-tone pyramid nail design fit for the red carpet. And, ORLY has recently announced they will be donating 10 per cent of the proceeds from the Celebrate Yourself collection to hurricane relief efforts.

ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN

CND Show off your clients’ “cool” side with the Glacial Illusion collection, featuring muted pastel shades like iced blue Mystic Slate.

MORGAN TAYLOR Embrace the season with Little Miss Nutcracker’s glamorous collection of shades like Silver In My Stocking.

GLITZ THE SEASON Give nails a festive flair with CND Creative Play Wonderball collection. We all know how busy you and your clients are during the holidays. Help them “nail” every holiday look this season with CND’s new Creative Play Wonderball collection. With glam shades ranging from metallic golden Ballroom Baubles and copper Bronze Burst, to deep-toned scarlet Red Tie Affair and midnight-blue Stylish Sapphire, the Wonderball collection has a colour for every holiday party look. The collection is also available in CND’s new Creative Play Gel polish for clients looking for extra-long wear without the heavy price tag.

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: CHINA GLAZE, ESSIE, OPI, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, CND CANADA, MORGAN TAYLOR, ORLY, GETTY IMAGES

Beat the holiday blues with the Holiday Hangover collection of festive shades like silver Up To Snow Good.

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HAIRLINES COLOUR

Celebrating Your Roots Two top hair colour experts share what you need to know about the shadow root trend to help your clients achieve this stunning new look.

WHAT IS SHADOW ROOT? According to George Alderete, North American creative ambassador for Keune Haircosmetics, “a shadow root is a soft blending or melding at the root and throughout the mid-lengths and ends of the hair. It’s an application that’s perfect for softening the harsh line of demarcation that can happen with a traditional highlighting colour process.” This effect is ideal for clients who want a splash of colour, or love the idea of having a more natural, lived-in look, since this forgiving shade application requires less maintenance. Clients that change their colour seasonally can do it with ease and deepen the shade for fall or lighten up for spring. “I’ve been playing with this type of hair colour for a few seasons, and I find it’s a great, fun way to punch up colour without too much commitment,” says Alex Chabot, artistic director for Matrix Canada.

PLAYING IT UP WITH PASTELS When it made an appearance a few years ago, pastel hair was perceived as being a novelty shade. Fast-forward to today and not only have pastels endured, but some colourists now consider them to be a staple, and even a new standalone category. “Some of the most popular trends we are seeing are the influx of vibrant and pastel tones. One of my favourite hues of the moment is a light ash violet blonde (created with Keune Semi Color 8.17), which is then hand-painted with Ultimate Power Blonde Powder Lift to give a seamless blend from dark to light. To create a soft pastel, I’ll mix the Lightest Pearl Mahogany Blonde (Keune Semi Color 9.25) to balance

BUT ALSO STAYING NATURAL “A shadow root is also beautiful when you achieve it with natural

the entire season, pick a permanent formula. Chabot adds that it’s important to remember you will have to lighten the hair after a few weeks so that the shadow root doesn’t grow out too much.

tones. I like the effect with two to three different colours, because

THE PROCESS

it also helps create the illusion of more density for a client with very

Chabot likes pre-lightening hair to a level 10, and then applying colour

thin hair,” explains Chabot. Of course, the type of effect you create

at the roots, one to two inches from the scalp. “But make sure you

all comes down to the colours your client prefers. If she likes to

foil the hair so that the lightening mix doesn’t bleed onto the rest of

change colour every time she comes in for a service, you choose

the hair. You actually need to be pretty meticulous so that the colour

demi-permanent shades. If you’re looking for an effect that will last

effect is even.”

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

TEXT:YASMIN GROTHÉ; PHOTO:S KEUNE HAIRCOSMETICS; MATRIX CANADA

and give that perfect hue,” says Alderete.

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Product Picks Here are the goods to help you deliver the looks. ONE Light Master Oil Additive from Matrix protects skin when applying high-lift lighteners on-scalp, and is ideal for colour melting and shadow root techniques. “It helps you lift hair faster”, says Alex Chabot, artistic director for Matrix Canada.

Alderete recommends maintaining a light pressure and soft brush strokes to best blend your shadow root. “Lay your brush flat to soften colour saturation and achieve a seamless effect. Heavy saturation of

TWO

colour is hard to blend, so apply smaller amounts of colour. Less is

“Keune’s Tinta Color Ultimate Blonde allows you to create a seamless blend from dark to light. It will give you beautiful results if you want a great shadow root look,” says George Alderete, North American creative ambassador for Keune Haircosmetics.

more to create a beautiful result.” And keep in mind that for the holiday season, a smokey shadow root hair colour service is perfect for adding dimension or to accent pastel hair because it’s the time of the year that your client will likely want to flaunt something more eye-catching and dramatic.

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HAIRLINES NEWS

EDITOR’S PICKS Glam up your beauty arsenal this season with our latest product picks.

1. PAY IT FORWARD Add an opulent touch with SST Cosmetics’ Berry Rich Diamonds lipstick, a decadent shade that’s part of the brand’s Lipstick for a Cause Campaign, with all proceeds benefitting STARS Air Ambulance’s fundraising efforts. sstsignatureseries.com 2. FIBER FIX Create flexible, textured styles with American Crew’s new Fiber Cream, a medium-hold styling cream with a natural-shine finish. americancrew.com 3. EFFORTLESS TEXTURE Aveda’s Texture Tonic is made with 94 per cent naturally derived ingredients like cane sugar and salt for creating undone styles. aveda.ca

4. CRYSTAL EFFECT Get the strong hold of gel without the wet look with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Osis+ Session Label Crystal Gel, infused with crystal rock extract for a dry finish. schwarzkopf-professional.ca 5. GO GREEN This festive-inspired Book of Eyes palette in Baby Greens from Smith & Cult is sure to add a touch of sparkle and shine to your clients’ holiday looks. smithandcult.com 6. PRIME TIME Give skin extra care with Dermalogica’s Precleanse Balm, a water-activated balmoil hybrid that removes excess oil, and waterproof makeup for clean, hydrated skin. dermalogica.com

6. 4.

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TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL C

2. 1.

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Can you handle the heat? Discover the revolutionary permanent shine exothermic hair colour By Oligo Professionnel oligopro.com

RED CARPET,

recreated We talked with hairstylists for their favourite celebrity styles from the red-carpet to find out which looks will reign this holiday season. Here’s how to give your clients the styles they covet—and make them feel like a celebrity, too. By Anna Lee Boschetto

WHO: Priyanka Chopra WHERE: Toronto International Film Festival

WHO: Jessica Chastain WHERE: 2017 Golden Globe Awards “I love when a woman wears her hair completely pulled back from

“Priyanka’s hairstyle at TIFF was probably the most glamourous that

her face, it's such a sign of strength and power,” says Kevin Hughes,

your salon clients will want to go,” says Collins. “The underlying

artistic director for Moroccanoil.

texture is broken up and natural, and I created this by using a roller set in the front for texture, then I smoothed and polished the hair.”

FOR BRAIDED LOOKS “On Jessica Chastain, I loved the chic detail of the three-strand braid that was then wrapped around the chignon,”

FOR TEXTURED STYLES “Glam waves need a good cut and a lot of

says Hughes. “For this look, you take a section of hair from

prep,” says Collins. “I control the hairline with a comb, I blow dry hair

underneath the ponytail to create the braid.”

in the direction I want the wave to go, and keep the root of the hair in that direction so I can manipulate the curl.”

PRODUCT PICKS “Prep the hair with Moroccanoil Treatment and Smoothing Lotion, then do smooth blowout before gathering her hair

PRODUCT PICKS “Begin with L’Oréal Professionnel Triple Volume

into a low ponytail with a deep side part. After you take a section

Mousse and blow dry the hair. Then I’ll saturate it with “L’Oréal

for the braid, then create a tight chignon and pin into place. After

Professionnel Tecni.Art Constructor Thermoactive Spray before I curl it.

you create the braid and wrap around the chignon, use Moroccanoil

When I’m finishing the hair, I’ll use L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium.”

Luminous Hairspray to finish the look.”

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PHOTOS: IMAGECOLLECT, FRAZER HARRISON, GETTY IMAGES ENTERTAINMENT | NEILSON BARNARD/NBCUNIVERSAL, GETTY IMAGES, KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

MATTHEW COLLINS, L’Oréal Professionnel ambassador

KEVIN HUGHES, Moroccanoil artistic director

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PAUL NORTON, for Joico WHO: Gina Rodriguez WHERE: 2017 Golden Globe Awards “For Gina’s look, I loved how it embodied a classic Hollywood siren and went so perfectly with her gown. I felt it really brought out a sexier vibe, which was also

SONYA DOVE, global ambassador for Wella Professionals WHO: Sophie Turner

more modern in texture,” says Norton. FOR OLD HOLLYWOOD GLAM “This style is great in terms of salon holiday looks because they are simple to recreate. Gina’s is more of a simple set done with a curling iron and silver clamps, that is quick, and easy and perfect for clients and their holiday events!”

WHERE: 2017 Screen Actors

PRODUCT PICKS For Rodriguez’s low-key glam look, Joico Power Whip created a

Guild Awards

tousled look by pushing hair into a deep side part when blown dry. For the curl,

“Sophie likes consultation and when I first met her,

JoiShape was used on each section before K-Pak Protect and Shine created the glossy finish and Hair Shake on the ends for that separation.

I learned she is not afraid to show her natural colour and that she cares more about the condition of her hair because she is constantly having it coloured,” says Dove. FOR GLAM WAVES “Sophie has a centre part, which gives a younger and fresher feel for more glam waves. Then she has straighter ends, which is great

DAVID STANWELL for Oribe Hair Care

for emphasizing those waves,” says Dove.

WHO: Felicity Huffman

FOR COLOUR “Her colour had warmth to it, but we

WHERE: 2017 Screen Actors

decided to create a sandy, flaxen, almost wheat blonde,” says Dove. “We used Wellaplex and it worked so well, then I used Blondor along with the new Touch of Cool shades from Koleston Perfect and finished with a cool gloss toner for a beautiful shine.” For at-home maintenance, Dove also recommended Wella’s FusionPlex Conditioner. FOR PRODUCT PICKS “Her hair was prepped with Eimi Protector and was then blow dried with a ghd dryer using a round boar-bristle brush with plenty of

Guild Awards “The simplicity of this look is why it’s so effective,” says hairstylist David Stanwell who works with celebrities including Laura Dern and Octavia Spencer. “Simplicity is usually the most effective with standing out when done right. You can't go wrong.” FOR UNDONE STYLING “The most important part is to blowdry the fringe forward,” says Stanwell. “Then pull the majority of the hair up into a French twist leaving out the fringe and pin. Sit in front of a mirror to get the balance right and when you feel you have the desired look spray a little more and pin to secure.”

tension,” says Dove. “From a side part, her hair was

FOR PRODUCT PICKS For Huffman’s undone upstyling, her hair was prepped with

curled with a one-inch wand, and each section was

Oribe’s Maximista Thickening Spray and blown dry with a round brush. Oribe’s

pinned to cool. Then it was brushed out and styled

Dry Texturizing Spray was used on the roots. The look was finished with Oribe’s

into soft waves for more movement and glamour.”

Superfine Strong HairSpray.

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GIVING BACK We chatted with salon owners from coast to coast about the merits of giving back, and tips on how to get your salon involved, too. By Veronica Boodhan

AVANT GARDE HAIR STUDIO, VANCOUVER Fundraiser: BEAUTY JAM LIVE Charity: BEAUTY GIVES BACK

While fundraisers often support local communities, sometimes their impact can extend beyond borders. Case in point: Jon Paul Holt’s Beauty Jam Live, a hair show that included hairstylists from Canada, the U.S. and England, who donated their time to be involved with the show. “I invited eight teams from across Canada and the world to perform on stage together to educate and inspire the audience,” says Holt. Benefitting Beauty Gives Back, a charitable organization it was something Holt felt he had to be part of. “Anything that involved the icon of Vidal Sassoon [felt right]. This particular fundraiser was to raise money for clean water wells in Swaziland in South Africa,” he says. “My right-hand assistant is from there and we had talked about its water worries, so it all seemed perfectly ‘meant to be.’” With 400 attendees, the event raised more than

and your effort on. It [brings] our team together on important issues that we care about, and allows us to use our hair talents as a team to create artistic inspiration.” “Hairstylists have such an amazing relationship with their clients and the community, and that if we all pull together we can do so much to help others. This can only benefit the team spirit of the salon and how it is

$30,000. However, Holt also made it a priority to provide

respected and regarded by the community.”

complimentary tickets for students to attend. “It’s what

— JON PAUL HOLT, OWNER OF AVANT GARDE HAIR

we should be doing to encourage and motivate our young stylists of the future,” he says. “Great education and inspiration for hairdressers—all doing something

personally or is close to your heart is what you should spend your time

STUDIO IN VANCOUVER For salons trying to get started in fundraising, Holt recommends

wonderful for people in need. That’s what we as a

keeping it simple. “Don't try anything too complicated,” he says. “Find

community can achieve.”

out what your staff would like to do and what charity they would all like

Over the years, Holt has organized many different

to support. Maybe [host] a cut-a-thon or go to a home to do hair for

fundraisers to support BC’s Children’s Hospital and help

the elderly or sick. There are so many easy ways for us as stylists to

those affected by cancer. “We believe in helping issues

give back, because we are one of the few true professionals that make

that affect our clients,” he says. “Whatever affects you

women look and feel better and happier with themselves.”

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PHOTOS: AVANT GARDE HAIR STUDIO;THE HEADROOM; SALON ENTRENOUS AND PARKINSON SOCIETY SOUTHWESTERN ONTARIO

led by Eden Sassoon in honour of her father, Vidal Sassoon,

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THE HEADROOM, ST. JOHN’S, NFLD. Event Name: FREE HAIRCUTS FOR KIDS FOR CANADA’S 150TH BIRTHDAY Charity: ASSOCIATION FOR NEW CANADIANS

Giving back has always been a passion for salon

$1,000, which was donated directly to a

owner Trish Molloy and her team at The Headroom

family that recently arrived to St. John’s.

in St. John’s, Nfld. “I’ve had great success in my

The team at The Headroom continues to

life and I feel it’s important to give back to the

give back to various charitable organizations

community in any way you can,” she says. “I feel

throughout the year, and Molloy says it’s

that everybody should take care of each other.”

easy for any salon to do for their community.

The Headroom has worked with the Association

“It’s something you can do that’s tangible

for New Canadians for several years. “It’s a cause

and it makes people feel good,” she says.

that’s near and dear to my heart. Juan Perez, who

“We use Facebook a lot for promoting our

was a platform artist for Goldwell, [immigrated to

fundraisers and often look to the community,

Newfoundland] from Cuba and has since passed

with direct contact with clients through

away,” she says. “I am in close contact with several

email and Facebook. Whether it’s something small or

new Canadians, and we’ve done many different

something big, it doesn’t matter. You can organize a

fundraisers over the years for new Canadians and

small fundraiser for hurricane victims and just put a

their families.” Molloy’s most recent fundraiser in

donation box on your front desk. Or plan something

June was in celebration of Canada’s 150th birthday,

small within your salon for different charities and

and had eight of the salon’s hairstylists working

organizations within your community. As long as you

towards the goal of 150 complimentary haircuts

do something and the next person passes it on, the

for children under 13 years of age. The event raised

world would be a better place.”

SALON ENTRENOUS, LONDON, ONT. Fundraiser: A HAIR AFFAIR FOR PARKINSON’S Charity: PARKINSON SOCIETY SOUTHWESTERN ONTARIO

For 20 years, this London-based salon has participated in an annual cuta-thon to raise funds for Parkinson Society Southwestern Ontario. Salon owner Lisa Sallabank says it’s a tradition she’s been proud to be part of since her days as an apprentice. “It’s something we were approached with, and it was something everyone was immediately interested in,” she says. “Spending a few hours on a Sunday, meeting new people and making people feel pretty—all for a good cause.” Always one of the first salons to be fully booked for this fundraiser, Salon Entrenous had 12 of its hairstylists participating in this year’s event in April and raised nearly $1,000. But according to Sallabank, the true reward of the event had nothing to do with money. “Our industry is amazing because no matter what’s going on in somebody’s life, you get to make them feel like a million dollars. They can forget about what’s going on, what’s troubling them, or if they’re sick with an ailment; even if it’s just for a split second, when you do the ‘ta-da’ moment, they feel amazing. We have a few clients that suffer from Parkinson’s disease, and we try to be involved with any charity we can to give back as much as possible.”

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THE LOFT URBAN SALON, OTTAWA Event Name: LOFT GALA Charity: OTTAWA REGIONAL CANCER FOUNDATION

When it comes to fundraising galas, this Ottawa salon sets the bar high. The Loft Urban Salon’s annual Loft Gala wrapped up its fourth season in April, with an ultra-glamorous Alice in Wonderland themed soirée for its 600 attendees. Benefitting the Ottawa Regional Cancer Foundation, it’s a cause that hits close to home for salon owner, Bruno Racine. “In

With its gala and raffle ticket sales, silent and

the last 10 years, we lost two great stylists to

live auctions, Loft Gala raised $65,000 this year.

cancer and my partner lost his sister just before

“We’ve been so supported by the community

the gala last April.”

and that’s why my business is so successful. I

With Racine’s background in fashion (he was

support all my clients, whether they or a family

formerly a hairstylist at Toronto Fashion Week),

member are going through a difficult moment in

it’s been a passion that has developed into a

their life,” says Racine.

charitable endeavour. The Loft Gala is a formal

While the Loft Gala has evolved into the grand

black-tie gala with a sit-down dinner featuring a

event it is today, Racine says starting small is

100-foot-long catwalk with a fashion show and

key. “I started out very small and it’s been a very

live performances from musicians and dancers.

progressive thing for me. Networking is the best

The Loft Urban Salon’s team of hairstylists and

thing,” he says. “I go to a lot of galas myself. I’m out

makeup artists work behind the scenes, while

and about all the time. I’m always networking and

TV personality Tracy Moore is the emcee for the

meeting new people. And I think it’s the best way to

night. “It brings together all industries; fashion,

do it. Get involved and be out there. Gala producers

art, beauty and entertainment,” says Racine.

are not competitive; we help each other.”

SALON BEAUTÉ CHEZ FRANÇOISE, PRÉVOST, QUE. Event Name: PALLIATIVE CARE OF THE NORTH RIVER

On the heels of the salon’s latest charity initiative in September for the Palliative Care of the North River, co-owner Josée Desnoyers managed to raise a whopping $155,000. “I like to give and be there for my community,” she says. “By getting involved, it increases my sense of gratitude and wellbeing; it’s very rewarding.” In addition to donations, the event also featured a silent auction and raffle tickets. “We must always believe in our cause and, above all, get involved to help people for the good that it brings them,” says Desnoyers. “The more involvement, the more visibility is gained for the cause, while also making ourselves known to the community.” Did you know? The Contessas’ John Steinberg Community Service Award recognizes Canadian salons that have participated in fundraisers in their community. Read more about this heartfelt award at SalonMagazine.ca.

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PHOTOS:THE LOFT URBAN SALON; SALON BEAUTÉ CHEZ FRANÇOISE

Charity: PALLIATIVE CARE OF THE NORTH RIVER

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MAXIMIZE YOUR DOWNTIME That brief lull following the holiday rush should be utilized to get your salon brimming with business in the new year. Here’s how to get rolling before the ball drops.

BUILDING AN EDUCATION CALENDAR FOR THE UPCOMING YEAR

By Yasmin Grothé

Manufacturers have education managers that will come to your

Social media is king According to Michael Cole, a Minnesota-based global educator for 30 years and co-founder of Summit Salon Business Center, a key name

salon and create a customized program for your specific needs.

class is approximately $200 per person, and Ritcey says a

in North American salon management, “salon owners absolutely need

good average is to take a three classes a year, which puts

to master social media to fill in their hours,” he says. “It’s the single

stylists at a $600 investment.

most important aspect of managing a salon right now. I can’t, in good conscience, tell people to do anything else with their downtime because

the rules have completely changed in the past five years.”

know what you’re great at, and are sold on what they will get from you. Basically, that’s the reason they’re there.”

Exponential exposure

Should a stylist have concerns over covering class costs, you can help them attain that budget by offering to put money

By implementing proven social media marketing tactics, Cole says you don’t need to upsell your clients behind the chair, “because they already

Build an annual education budget for the year. A one-day

aside from each client transaction to chip away at the goal.

Take a day-long retreat out of the salon to promote team building, and bring an expert with a fresh set of eyes to help put the focus on what needs to be accomplished for business growth. “For example, shooting better Instagram

Focusing on social media multiplies your chances of getting referrals

photos would be a great goal to have, since that social

in an exponential way. “Handing out business cards from person to

media platform is the biggest online business driver at the

person is actually a really old practice, whereas a simple before-and-

moment,” says Ritcey.

after picture will get you 15 referrals at once,” says Cole. “So instead of communicating with just one person at a time, posting ‘I have an opening for a cut, colour, retouch, or foils’ on your social media account where you already have traction will get those clients coming in, and consistently boost your referrals month after month.”

Education is key The best way to utilize downtime efficiently is to focus on education. “January is the perfect time to really take stock and collectively look at your business. For salon owners, it’s an amazing time to build an education plan for the business and stylists, while clearly

MASTERING SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING ACCORDING TO MICHAEL COLE

Think like a marketer. “The goal is to fill the empty spots so you don’t need to worry about upselling every client who comes in.”

Look at your bookings three weeks in advance to fill every

director for Redken Canada. Next, he says to take a look at four basic elements of the hair business: cut, colour, finishing, and barbering. “Look at your year ahead and focus on where you want to grow and develop.”

Think digital

Follow up with clients that have liked your work on social media,

One you’ve set the tools in place to create a great salon experience,

Make sure at least 80 per cent of your followers are clients, and not just friends or family. “It’s what will make them come back to you.”

throughout the coming year,” shares Terry Ritcey, national education

available hour in your calendar.

and create posts with incentives to fill your available hours.

identifying what needs to be assessed in terms of education

it’s time to focus on your digital presence and create effective digital campaigns. “The whole digital footprint is your currency in today’s business,” says Ritcey. “It’s how you master your presence and online image, but it’s also about obtaining as much information as you can from your clients. Newsletters are very important to get your

Instagram is the lookbook you’re using behind the chair, so make

message across, as is using social media to be recognized at large as

sure you’re posting photos that make your brand look appealing.

the colour, cut or balayage expert you are.” And for that you need to start posting content that will make your name known.

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ICE QUEENS Cool tones elevate this collection of sharp cuts and airy textured styles. 38

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Hair: Tracey Devine-Smith, London, U.K. Makeup: Maddie Austin Styling: Desiree Lederer Photos: Richard Miles

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Expensive Taste Vintage hues are brought to life with modern colour placement in this British collection of sharp cuts and textured styles.

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Hair: Ken Picton, Ken Picton Salon, U.K. Colour: Paul Dennison Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Elaine Marshall Photos: Andrew O’Toole

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Hair: Anna Pacitto, James Abu Ulba, Lina Shamoun Colour: Roch Lemay, Lina Shamoun, Rachel Nixon Makeup: Ekaterina Ulyanoff Styling: Anna Pacitto & Ara Sassoonian Photos: Ara Sassoonian

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E f for tless Beaut y Feminine, textured styles are showcased in this ethereal Canadian collection featuring Miss Universe Canada, Lauren Howe.

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Photos courtesy of Schwarzkopf Professional

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The Ikonic Collection, Schwarzkopf Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Essential Looks for fall/winter 2017, combines eight of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most fashion-forward cuts, colour and styles that are just as relevant today as ever.

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Unrivalled Elegance n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

Hair: Servilles Creative Team led by Frank Apostolopoulos, Servilles, New Zealand Makeup: Jamila Serville & Louise Harford Styling: Victoria Harvey Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

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Undone styles add a touch of effortless glamour to this black-and-white collection.

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Brushing IT OFF n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

Hair: Michael Beal, Buoy Salon and Spa, New Zealand Colour: Chinney Yeap Makeup: Hil Cook Styling: Sopheak Seng Photos: Guy Coombes

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Modern Renaissance

Rich colour and cuttingedge styling are combined in this edgy New Zealand collection.

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N U RTU R ED BY NATU R E Bold colour is fused with whimsical styling in this New Zealander collection. 50

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

Hair: Liana King, Moha Hairdressing, New Zealand Makeup: Lizzie Sharp Photos: Carl Keeley

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Hair: Mark Hayes, Sassoon Professional, U.K. Colour: Edward Darley Makeup: Daniel Kolaric Styling: Lucie Perrier Photos: Benjamin Vnuk

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Mod Squad This retro-inspired collection juxtaposes sharp lines with soft, textured styles.

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Hair: Joey Marchese & Paul Pereira for Schwarzkopf Professional Osis+ Session Label Makeup & Styling: Paul Langill Photos: Ivan Otis

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Voluminous styles are enhanced with clean lines and soft texture in this Canadian collection.

KEEP YOU R

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Soft texture and feminine colour add an opulent touch to this Australian collection. 56

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Glamou r Girls SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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Hair & styling: Sanja Scher, Rokk Ebony, Australia Makeup & photos: Yoshi Su

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“N O W L A U N C H I N G!”

Hair: Haute Coiffure Franรงaise, Paris Makeup: Vichika Yorn Styling: Justine Allain Photos: Matthieu Dortomb

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

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Street Smarts This street-style inspired French collection combines finished styles with undone texture and multidimensional colour.

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Hair: Scott Condon, Rokk Ebony, Australia Colour: Charlene Fernandez Makeup: Sarah Baxter Photos: Elizabeth May Kinnaird

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Multi-dimensional colour adds a fresh flair to this Australian collection.

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I N TO THE LIGH T n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

READY. SET. CONTESSA! GALA November 12, 2017 Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto

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CONTESSA 29 FINALISTS

CANADIAN SALON TEAM Bob + Paige, Toronto Blushes, Ottawa Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Hairology, Winnipeg JC Salons, Toronto Spirit Spa, Halifax, N.S. Taz Hair Co., London, Ont. Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. Valvano Salon, St. Catharines, Ont.

ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, Ölab Coiffeurs, Montreal Michael Crispel, Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure, Montreal Chloe Ste-Marie, Oblic Villeray, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

MASTER COLOURIST Catherine Allard, Salon Odysseé, Montreal Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Michelle Finlayson, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Natalia Petcu, Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C. Julio Rodriguez, Valentini Hair Design & Esthetics, Guelph, Ont. Kelly Toms, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

INTERNATIONAL HAIRSTYLIST Robert Bushy, Sense: A Robert Bushy Salon, Madison, Wis. Tracey Devine-Smith, Zoology, London, U.K. Candice McKay, Wyatt Hairdressing & Barbering, Joannesberg, South Africa Uros Mikic, Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney, South Australia Sal Misseri, Kaizen Education, Chicago Michael Piastrino, Ibiza Hair, Melbourne, Australia Nikki Porter, Rubi Hair Malvern, Melbourne, Australia Jake Thompson, Lunatic Fringe, Salt Lake City, Ut. Sharon Tranter, Sharon Tranter Education, Newnan, Ga. Anne Veck, Anne Veck Salons, Oxford, U.K.

CANADIAN COLOURIST Vanessa Bianchi, Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock, Ont.

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Rino Balzano, Taz Hair Co., Etobicoke, Ont. Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Duyen Huynh, DH Studio, Scarborough, Ont. Stephanie Schewe, Salon Collage, Toronto Charles Stevens, La Marca Salon & Barber, Oshawa, Ont. Mickey Svircevic, Freelance, Thornhill, Ont. Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Julie Carr, Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Darcie Chapman, The Black Swan Hair Co., Spruce Grove, Alta. Heather O’Reilly, Virtue Beauty Boutique at Tru Salon Suites, Mount Pearl, Nfld. Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont.

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Yanick Chartrand-Kravitz, Brossés, Montreal Ian Daburn, Barber & Co., Vancouver Marie-Justine Deziel, Freelance, Montreal Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Hassan Nasser, Avalon Salon, Calgary

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Ray Civello, Civello Salon & Spa, North York, Ont. Kim Garneau, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Ludovic Leroy-Vigier, Rayko Coiffure, Lasalle, Que. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver Adam O’Callaghan, Victory Barber and Brand, Vancouver Tanya Sullivan, Craft Academy Salon, Vancouver Mellissa Toma, FUSS Art of Hair, Edmonton

MAKEUP ARTIST Gabrielle Brulotte, Freelance, Québec, Que. Marika D’Auteuil, MD Makeup, Montreal Heidi Fleming, Beauty by Heidi Amelia, Aylesford, N.S. Ashley Prestage, LUXE Beauty Studio, Port Perry, Ont. Florencia Taylor, Florencia Taylor Makeup, London, Ont.

CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Ashly Harding, Her Majesty’s Pleasure, Toronto Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Olga Khazova, European Standard by Olga Khazova, Medicine Hat, Alta. Naomi Misu, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Shirley Truong, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto

NEW HAIRSTYLIST Eloise Chiew, Suki’s South Granville, Vancouver Jesse Ervin, Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Sasha Gagne, Koko the Salon, Edmonton Madison Rokeby, Instyle Salon and Spa, Alymer, Ont. John Seo, Taz Hair Co., Etobicoke, Ont.

STUDENT/ APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Kate Bosma, Pretty & Co, Beamsville, Ont. Angela Debono, Taz Hair Co., Etobicoke, Ont. Laura Metansinine, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Dorothy Nguyen, Suki’s Salon and Academy, Vancouver Aron Wong, Suki’s Salon and Academy, Vancouver

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Jenna Bosch, Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat Amber Kennedy, Koko the Salon, Edmonton Simone Pettigrew, SimoneZ Studio, Edmonton Beverly Robertson, Meraki Hair Studio, Calgary Alannah Zilkowsky, Rock Paper Hair Designs, Sherwood Park

ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Olivia Chafe, Olivia Chafe Salon Studio by Tru Salon Suites, Mount Pearl, Nfld. Claude Comeau, Spirit Spa, Halifax, N.S. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Heather O’Reilly, Virtue Beauty Boutique at Tru Salon Suites, Mount Pearl, Nfld. Kerri-Lynn Perham, Virtue Beauty Boutique at Tru Salon Suites, Mount Pearl, Nfld.

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Marlo Forsberg, High Fidelity Hair, Vancouver Simon James, Lure Salon, Vancouver Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough Julie Carr, Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock Connor Lange, Bob + Paige, Toronto Tracy Newton, Aveda Institute and Academy, Toronto

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Nadia Abouwaked, Effusion, Montreal Francis Bouchard, Oblic Villeray, Montreal Vicky Busque, Toque & Cie., Victoriaville Jean-Sebastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec

SASKATCHEWAN / MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Jason Lachance, Urban Crush Salon, Winnipeg Colleen Lamirande, Verde Salon, Winnipeg April McDougald, IRON Beauty, Regina Alicia Soulier, Capelli Salon Studio Inc., Saskatoon

SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Concrete Blonde & Concrete Barbers Southfort, Fort Saskatchewan, Alta. Concrete Blonde Hair & Body, Sherwood Park, Alta. Euro Reflections Hair Studio – Spa – Medi Spa, Kitchener, Ont. Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont. Verde Salon, Winnipeg

JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. Jonni’s Styling Studio, Kamloops, B.C. Nova Vita Salon, London, Ont. Studio H, London, Ont. The Green Hair Spa, Stratford, Ont.

PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Daniel Benoit, Salon Pure, Montreal Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Michelle Finlayson, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure, Montreal Alain Pereque, Freelance, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

Marlo Forsberg, High Fidelity Hair, Vancouver Simon James, Lure Salon, Vancouver Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver Lesley Spencer, Aveda Institute and Academy, Toronto Victoria Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont. David Vendittelli, Industry Hair and Esthetics, St. Catharines, Ont.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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CONTESSA 28 FINALIST MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR

or Contessa 28 finalist Kelsey Fitzpatrick’s

transforming makeup to appear like a painting

Makeup Artist of the Year collection,

has become part of her signature style.

it wasn’t only about the face. “I was

GLOBAL APPEAL

inspired by thick, textural oil painting techniques to create a unique look with one focus feature to complement each hairstyle,” she she says. And while not all makeup artists consider the hairstyles when creating their makeup looks, it’s something Fitzpatrick has grown accustomed to since working with Freddy Sim (on his 2017 Contessa-winning Multicultural Hairstylist of the Year collection) and the team at Moods Hair Salon in Vancouver. “It is so inspiring to work with such an amazing hairstylist,” she says.

Fitzpatrick says she’s been active on social media for several years and has utilized its platforms for promoting her work. She now has an impressive following of more than 200,000 on Instagram. “Social media has been one of the most important parts of launching my career. My following grew as I shared my shocking looks, and they have been my biggest supporters,” she says. “It's also how my agency (NOBASURA), and Kat Von D found me.” As the only Canadian makeup artist selected

MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE

by Kat Von D to be part of the Kat Von D Beauty

When it came to choosing colours for her

Artistry Collective, her role involves a lot of

collection, Fitzpatrick wanted to use shades “that

travelling around the world for product launches,

would match and contrast hair, but that would

development and education, along with shooting

also be cohesive with each of the different :

video tutorials for the brand on YouTube.

purples, black, and pops of vivid pink.”

However, Fitzpatrick stills manages to find time

Since the makeup’s application is just as

competitions. “Ultimately, I find competitions

says she wanted to use a technique that would

most important for personal growth, and an

allow her to easily create unique shapes. “I

integral part of growing internationally as an

like to hold my brush loosely with my hand,

artist,” she says. “My favourite thing about the

and let it take the lead,” she says. “I also use a

Contessas is getting to create looks for the most

makeup spatula with thick cream products to

mind-blowing hair looks I’ve ever seen. It really is

give that messy oil painting effect,” and adds that

a team effort.”

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“The colour payoff on these are stunning,” says Fitzpatrick. “The creamy matte texture is perfect to build up texture.”

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, MAKEUP: KELSEY FITZPATRICK, MOODS HAIR SALON, VANCOUVER; HAIR: CHAD TAYLOR & JOHANNA LIBBEY, NAILS: JOHANNA LIBBEY, STYLING: CARLEE WALLACE, PHOTO: PHILIP JARMAIN PHOTOS COURTESY OF: MIRABELLA BEUATY, MAKE UP FOR EVER, KAT VON D BEAUTY

KELSEY FITZPATRICK

Kelsey Fitzpatrick is a Vancouver-based makeup artist and one of four makeup artists in the Kat Von D Beauty Artistry Collective. Fitzpatrick’s work has been published in several publications including Nylon and Teen Vogue.

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SALON PROFILE

Changing Inspiration Award-winning British hairstylist Darren Ambrose takes session styling to a whole new level. By Anna Lee Boschetto

arren Ambrose was named the 2015 British Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards (BHA). He has won multiple BHAs in the Avant Garde category, and as Wella

Professionals global ambassador, Ambrose continues to cultivate his creativity working with creative teams around the world. Whether he’s creating a collection, designing looks onstage at Salon International or consulting with his team at D&J Ambrose—a salon he co-founded with his wife Jackie—Ambrose is always looking for inspiration around the corner. Maintaining a strong connection between fashion and hair, Ambrose finds much of his inspiration for his creativity from textiles. Here’s how the U.K.-based hairstylist sees the union of fashion and hair, and why he believes competitions are the key to pushing your creativity on all levels.

Salon Magazine: How did the concept for the Vanity collection come to life?

Darren Ambrose: We did a show in London at the end of 2016 and presented the Vanity collection, so it was wonderful to have the support of my family at Wella. The ideas and inspiration came from fashion photographer Steven Meisel, whose work has been everywhere from W to Vogue. In particular, I really love his approach to the photography of women because he really captures them in a beautiful and iconic way. So Vanity is really a collection about iconic woman through decades of fashion and design.

SM: Where do you get your inspiration as you are building a collection?

DA: Working during London Fashion Week, you pick up a lot. My Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood, for our company D&J Ambrose so we took these pieces and created different female characters based on the fashion.

SM: Where do you begin when you’re creating a new collection? DA: For me, when I’m designing something I begin with sketching whatever comes to mind that is obviously hair related for me. Then I think about it from a fashion perspective. I’ll look at which designer,

PHOTOS COURTESYOF D&J AMBROSE

wife and have gathered an extensive wardrobe of designers including

fabric or cut of clothing that would work with that haircut or session

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

hairstyle. I go into researching different fabric textures whether it’s silk, leather or fur, and it all ties in.

SM: You mentioned that Meisel’s ability to capture women was different, how does your view differ in this collection?

DA: I think we’re focusing on how women view themselves as women. This is more of a powerful structure as a woman—very clear headed and directional, pleasing herself as opposed to pleasing men. Men will often see women as sexy, which is wonderful but I think when you’re doing an editorial shoot or creating a collection, it’s important to show strength.

SM: Why do you believe that competitions are still important for hairstylists today?

DA: When you’re beginning as a hairstylist you work hard as a creative person. When you’re training at a junior level, getting educated and taking it all in, it gets to a point where you’re naturally creative, and you want to push yourself. Competition is another way to move further up the ladder as you grow as a hairstylist. In many ways, competition helps you in creating a signature style for yourself, rather than being a carbon copy of someone else. With Wella’s TrendVision, the whole concept is an amazing way to let yourself go creatively and showcase yourself as a creative person to your peers, and if you win, it literally launches you to a whole new level.

SM: Any advice for anyone entering a competition?

DA: You have to be very open. When you are working on something, you can get so involved and as an artist, I’ve done it myself. You need to learn to step back from your work when you think it looks cool, and you like where you’re going. Just stop there and walk away. Even taking 10 minutes away from your work will give you a different perspective, so don’t be afraid to give yourself time to revisit what you’ve done and edit if you need to later in the process.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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SALON BUSINESS

A YEAR IN REVIEW While the holiday season is undoubtedly the busiest time of the year, it’s important to make it a priority to reflect on the past 12 months and work toward goals for the year ahead. We spoke with the business experts about their top 3 tips for navigating the year-end to new-year transition. By Veronica Boodhan

“T

he cost of doing business rises every day, and there

can have drawbacks. “Sometimes salon owners go by what they

are so many things to pay attention to, to keep it

perceive is happening in their business, but numbers tell the

growing,” says Robert Cromeans, global artistic and

story,” says de Sousa, who adds that working with a business

business director for John Paul Mitchell Systems. “Year-end is like a rear-view mirror, and if you’ve been doing things right all year, it’s a time to celebrate.” Here’s the top three dos and don’ts to consider when evaluating and planning for your business:

consultant can help provide some objective feedback. “Salon owners are working so hard in the business, they don’t work on the business.” — LAURA DE SOUSA, SENIOR SALES MANAGER FOR KAO CANADA

DO: Look for opportunities for growth Key performance indicators (KPIs) are critical for finding opportunities to improve your business. “I pay a lot of attention to the traffic cam. It’s a number that’s very important to watch; not monthly but quarterly, and of course as

DO: Pay attention to retail/ take-home sales We all know how important retail sales are for your

we work to year’s end,” says Cromeans. “It’s data that if in the

business’ bottom line. But you may be focusing on the numbers

right order, shows that the business is growing.”

over a specific timeline (daily, weekly, monthly or quarterly), retail sales can also help you build business well into the future.

DON’T: Only focus on client retention While we know retention is a huge factor for any successful salon, frequency of visits is another important number that can provide substantial growth opportunities. “Client retention can be quite deceiving,” says Cromeans. “Unfortunately, for every four new guests we get, we lose four, so we’re not really growing. That said, if I give a client really great service, and they want to come back more often, it means I’m doing something right.”

DO: Trust your numbers

“Ideally, you want to continue the holiday momentum. Salon profits often dip down in the first quarter and it may take you one or two quarters to bounced back. If you make it a goal to keep each of those quarters profitable, you’re going to have a profitable business,” says Cromeans, who adds that gift cards are another way to offset holiday earnings to the slower first quarters of the following year. “Today’s service is tomorrow’s traffic.”

DON’T: Only focus on holiday retail/ take-home sales The holiday season really is the most wonderful

While not every salon owner is fully aware of what

time of year. But when it comes to numbers, especially in terms

their P&L (profit & loss) statement really means to

of sales, these aren’t necessarily indicators that can be used as

their business, having a closer look at the numbers can help

benchmarks throughout the entire year. “Retail sales, especially

indicate your salon’s successes and failures. “Numbers really help

around the holidays, are not original in any way,” says Cromeans.

paint the full picture,” says Laura de Sousa, senior sales manager

“We have one advantage and that’s a captive audience. I think

for Kao Canada. “Taking a look at them can determine trends

that’s something we really need to think about as salon owners

and give targets to meet that will have some incremental growth

and hairstylists, is that we have a captive audience, sometimes

impact on your business.”

for three hours at a time, and the transference of information is

DON’T: Think perception is reality

so little and often prompted by the guests. We have to do better at informing our guests.”

Salon owners may think they know their business inside-and-out, but often being too connected to it

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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SALON INTERIORS

“It’s something that every single client who sees it for the first time is really impressed by,” Levine says of his salon’s vault, which is used as a colour processing area.

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

Contrasting the starkness of the colour bar is Space’s all-white cutting and styling area, which features a 35-foot-long table and drop-ceiling rectangular clouds over each section to create a feeling of separation.

Reading Between the Design We all know how important design can be in creating the perfect space for your clientele. Find out how these two Canadian salons took “thinking outside of the box” to a new level. BY VERONICA BOODHAN

SPACE, VANCOUVER Space salon in Vancouver features a “space within a space” design, with everything from the shampoo to colour to cutting areas customized to create their own unique space. “Each zone has a different energy and feeling,” says salon owner Michael Levine. Formerly a bank, Space’s pièce de résistance is the bank vault, which has been transformed into the salon’s colour processing area. “I always thought it would be so cool to have a location with a vault in it. But when I looked at the vault, it seemed really small. So I was thinking about what we could do with it and then realized we could seat six people and have hooded dryers in there,” says Levine. “Now, once when we’re finished at the colour bar, we move our clients [to the vault] to process. It has two televisions and a couple of coffee tables with a ton of magazines.” While Levine didn’t work with a designer for any of his salons (opting to figure out the space by himself) he hired a team to core out a 14-inch hole through the ceiling of the vault in order to install ventilation for the dryers. “It was like breaking into the vault, like in a PHOTOS: A MICHAEL LEVINE SALON GROUP

heist movie,” he says. “Once we knew that the layout of the space was going to work with our colour bar, everything else just fell into place. The vault became a huge selling feature for me.” “Clients are surprised the space came with [the vault]. They think I installed it,” adds Levine. “I’m not the type of person to install a design element like that. I don’t do things that are superfluous—I tend to do things that are more organic, and I like to use found items. My aesthetic is function before form, so I try to maximize my space as much as I can.”

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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SALON INTERIORS

THE CELLAR SALON, TORONTO After moving locations in Toronto from the Avenue and Davenport area to upscale

The salon’s washing area features three chocolate brown Italian leather armchairs with adjustable basins “for optimal comfort,” says O’Bryan.

Yorkville, salon owner Aaron O’Bryan wanted to maintain his salon’s overall aesthetic. “I wanted to keep the same warm, friendly vibe, where it didn’t have that overly pretentious, clinical feel to it. It’s very welcoming; almost like you walked into an Irish pub, and because my background is Irish, I drew inspiration from home.” With his first location in a basement, it inspired O’Bryan to turn the space into one reminiscent of a wine cellar. “We were starting from the bottom and working our way up,” he says. “We included concepts of a cellar, including wine barrels, wine barrel tables and antique pieces. Now, even though the salon is on the second floor [at its Yorkville location] and it’s about fourtimes larger, we wanted to keep the décor very similar.” O’Bryan and his husband Jay worked with the team from The Marilyn Denis Show (O’Bryan is the show’s resident hair expert), sourcing and refurbishing antiques, such as vanity styling station and a retail armoire from local antique shops. “I don’t like to just throw things out. I think you can always turn something into something else; that’s why we do a lot of refurbishing. I like to be creative, and it was fun to do.” The salon’s pièce de résistance is its wine barrel chandelier in the reception area. “People always comment on it,” says O’Bryan. “It’s a wine barrel sourced from Niagara that was cut in half and converted into a chandelier; custom-made with warm lighting to feel like you’re sitting at a warm fire, and to create a calm atmosphere for our While O’Bryan and his team have nailed his salon’s wine cellar décor, he says there’s only one thing missing. “We’re working on getting our liquor license and will hopefully bottle our own wine someday,” he says. “To have ‘The Cellar’ wine that’s made in Canada would be the dream.”

PHOTOS: THE CELLAR SALON

clients to sit, read a magazine and relax.”

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

The salon’s Style Express Bar is a refurbished vanity table, and the mirrors in the colour and treatment area are made from an antique drawer and window. Complementing the space are photos of wine bottles and corks, small porcelain keys and antique hairdryers and curling irons.

Tying in the salon’s wine cellar theme, O’Bryan sourced and refurbished this large wine barrel from Niagara-on-theLake’s Colaneri Estate Winery. The Cellar Salon also includes side tables that feature a rustic metal base with wooden surfaces to resemble wine barrels.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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SALON EVENTS

Schwarzkopf Professional’s Ikonic Event presented by ESP Salon Sales Kathy Simon and Jean-Sébastien Lacombe took the stage for the brand’s BlondMe line, with Simon demonstrating cutting techniques and Lacombe showcasing braided styling techniques.

For the Canadian debut of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Ikonic Collection (Essential Looks for fall/winter 2017), Salon Magazine was the exclusive Canadian media outlet for the two-day show and look-and-learn event. Featuring celebrity hairstylist Tyler Johnston from the U.K., the event also featured Schwarzkopf Professional’s North American colour

Matty Conrad unveiled six hairstyling and barbering looks using the brand’s Osis+ styling line.

director (and Contessa 2018 finalist!) Rossa Jurenas, who presented alongside Johnston for the Ikonic Collection, along with the brand’s Essential Looks Artists Matty Conrad, Kathy Simon and Jean-Sébastien Lacombe. WHEN & WHERE September 24 and 25 in Edmonton, Alta.

Schwarzkopf Professional Canada’s general manager John Fortunato and ESP Salon Sales and SST Cosmetics founder Sharon Sharpe-Titus at the Ikonic Event cocktail party. PHOTOS COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL CANADA & SALON MAGAZINE STAFF

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

Tyler Johnston and Rossa Jurenas presenting the cutting and colour techniques from the Schwarzkopf Professional Ikonic Collection.

Hairstylist influencers Pamela Adam and Josie Vilay took the stage to explain their roles in the brand’s Forging Bonds campaign.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

Metro Beauty Supplies Hosts Davines North America’s Hair On Stage Canadian hairstylists were given plenty of inspiration at Davines Hair On Stage. The brand’s international artists, including teams from Denmark and the Ontario Davines team combined to deliver innovative styling and cutting techniques in an energetic runway show. The brand’s artistic director Angelo Seminara talked inspiration, insalon styling and showcased looks from the latest Davines collection. WHEN & WHERE September 25 in Woodbridge, Ont.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SALON MAGAZINE STAFF

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An Evening with Oribe Atelier and Artist Choice Focused on upstyling techniques, Oribe’s creative director of styling Ronnie Stam showcased three different looks at the Oribe Atelier. Stam also offered advice on perfecting upstyling techniques, plus new ways to use the brand’s styling products—

1 2 3 4 5

whether you’re creating glam waves or the classic chignon.

Discover why you should attend our new and exclusive anti-aging & beauty EVENTS!

WHEN & WHERE September 11 in Toronto

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF ARTIST CHOICE

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SALON SCOOP

1 NEW ROLE The Allied Beauty Association (ABA) has named Alain Audet as its new executive director. In his new role, Audet will be in charge of leading the ABA nationally and will be responsible for managing the association and developing and implementing the ABA’s strategic plan. He will also be the official representative for the ABA in Canada and worldwide. Audet has more than 25 years of experience working with international beauty products, most recently as the director of strategic market development for the professional products division of L’Oréal Canada. Audet says he is honoured with his new role and looks forward to working with all ABA members.

2 GOING GLOBAL Renowned hairstylist Tracey Hughes has been announced as the new vice-president of global education for L’ANZA Healing Haircare. Known as an expert in education and event management, and previous experience as

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• Cruelty Free

new role with L’ANZA, she will assist in the development of the brand’s education systems, digital assets and brand image. David Berglass, CEO and president of L’ANZA, says Hughes’ leadership skills will help lead L’ANZA’s global education team to the next level.

PHOTOS: ALLIED BEAUTY ASSOCIATION, L’ANZA, LINKEDIN

RapidLash®MD XL professional product now available in Canada!

3 IN MEMORIAM

Great retail product in conjunction with lash and brow extension services! For more information and to order please contact ROCASUBA, Inc at

orders@rocasuba.com 877-760-6677.

Joan Harrison passed away in Toronto on October 7, 2017. Joan was a tour de force, involved in many aspects of the beauty industry from her early years as a hairstylist, salon owner, business owner, publisher and mentor. She was a leader in the hairstyling community with an incredible passion for the industry. She will be missed. EYELASH AND EYEBROW ENHANCING SERUM SÉRUM AMÉLIORATION POUR LES CILS ET LES SOURCILS

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

SALON BEST 9

Our #BestNine Holiday Hair Looks As we welcome November, holiday hair inspiration has us feeling festive! As always, the #Insta love we receive is far more than we can fit on one page. Here are some

Knotty and nice @stylebylaine

Red hot colour on an incredible cut @guytang

Ice blonde and soft waves make a timeless combination @tylercoltonhair

Snow white hair perfect for the winter months @hairbyshawna_russell

Glossy finish on rich brown locks @mintportmoody

Dutch braids all wrapped up in festive tartan @cindyduplantis

Vintage-inspired curls never go out of style @natashapickettstylist

Twisting braid over loose caramel waves @ivorynoirsalon

Gorgeous Old Hollywood glam hair by @hairby_gloria

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

holiday looks that inspired us during our scrolling.

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NEW COLOR BUTTER! PURPLE

GREEN

BLUE

PINK

TITANIUM

RED

Color Depositing Treatment Lasts Up to 10 Shampoos *

Instantly Add Vibrant Color or Refresh Faded Color While reducing breakage by over 44%**

#ColorButter *9 out of 10 stylists agree hairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s condition is dramatically improved with just one use. **Ammonia, Peroxide, Mea, and PPD-free. Made in a factory where creativity and science may have been present.

JOICOCANADA.COM

HAIR & COLOR: Phil Ring