FACING FACTS ABOUT HORMONES

From babies to boomers, your skin reveals an inner truth

what do a 15-year-old with acne and a 60-year-old with wrinkles have in common? Hormones! While we can’t recapture the perfect skin of childhood, healthy, glowing skin is a goal most aspire to. “Don’t treat the skin type, treat the skin condition,” says Leanne McCliskie of the International Dermal Institute in Toronto, who advises estheticians to educate themselves on the hormonal challenges clients face. McCliskie and Harmony Wolgemuth of the European Institute of Esthetics in Edmonton share their tips on how to put the best face on problem skin.

ACNE

Puberty often brings an unpleasant bonus: acne. “It’s not diet or hygiene that causes the problem,” reminds Wolgemuth, though keeping the skin clean is important. She advises a simple two-step program for teens, who may not commit to more. “A medicated-based cleanser is very effective.” She likes ingredients like Japanese camphor and glycolic acid to calm the sebaceous glands and keep bacteria at bay. “Bacteria thrive without oxygen, so you want to exfoliate without exacerbating the pustules.” TIP: An acne facial is an effective in-spa treatment. And, says McCliskie, remind clients to cleanse twice daily to insure skin is clean.

PREGNANCY

Melasma, or hyperpigmentation, is an unattractive brown discolouration on the face that often occurs during pregnancy. Most women find it disappears after childbirth, but they still want to be treated before then. “There are several creams that are effective,” says Wolgemuth, who had melasma with her second child. For more persistent pigmentation, IPL and laser treatments may be the answer. However, the esthetician has to be aware of treatments and how they affect the pregnant client. “We don’t use the Galvanic machine, which helps us deliver skin products to a deeper level, during pregnancy,” says McCliskie. And Wolgemuth adds that certain essential oils in aromatherapy can be harmful during this period. TIP: A pregnancy package—everything from facial to foot massage—is an inspired addition to a spa menu. When they can’t get into their size 8 jeans, your clients will appreciate being pampered.

PERI-MENOPAUSE

Forty-year old skin is a reflection of past, present and future. Blemishes often return, a combination of hormones and stress. The tell tale signs are a sprinkling of little pustules on the chin. The obvious answer is to remove the stress, but that’s not always possible. And to add insult to injury, lines and wrinkles begin to appear around the eyes and mouth. However, there are combination products for in-spa use and home that battle both. TIP: “Skin loses collagen and elastin and needs to be replenished,” says McCliskie. She likes products that contain such ingredients as vitamins A, C and E, peptides, green tea and salicylic acid and anything else that acts on a cellular level.

MENOPAUSE

As estrogen drops, skin thins and becomes dryer, and it takes more work to keep it looking healthy. Ongoing maintenance is required, says McCliskie. “Cleanse, condition—that includes toning, exfoliating and a hydrating booster— and protecting, which is moisturizing and sun protection.” TIP: Use a day and night cream, plus a weekly exfoliation. Wolgemuth’s final piece of advice: “Serums and boosters are excellent for menopausal skin.” S