Salon Magazine, October 2009 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon magazine

the business of beauty and style

colour

all about

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

plus gearing up for Contessa 21

october 09 $5 salon52.ca

Together. A passion for hair

High Fashion Color. Intense Shine and Condition. SOMETHING NEW AND INTENSE IS COMING NOVEMBER 2009.

www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

1 800 463-3081

service your creativity. expand your imagination. thrill your clients. outshine your competition.

sebastian stylists are always on the edge of

what's next

[ MICKY GREEN ] paris-via-australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s breakout vocalista makes a homespun sound known to the world through the web, as her artistic style electrifies the fashion scene. ÂŠ 2009 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All rights reserved.

rewind RECONSIDER THE SERVICE YOU’RE OFFERING Everyone cuts and colours. That’s standard service. So what can you do to up your standard? What can you do to really stand out? You can provide something others can’t: innovative service. Daniel Di Tommaso, Sebastian core team leader, knows first-hand. “Believe it or not, clients crave more options,” says Di Tommaso. “They want the full salon experience. And if a stylist can’t fulfil their needs, they’re out. Expanding your service menu with made-to-order treatments creates that experience. Your service goes from the same old cut, the same old colour to a tailored package designed specifically for the individual sitting in your chair.” Think of it as the evolution of service. Think of it as capitalizing on the technology behind two treatment lines developed with the professional in mind: Cellophanes and Texture Tandem.

play WITH COLOUR

remix TOUCHABLE TEXTURE

I N N OVATIV E C OLOUR S E RV ICE : C E LLO P H A NE S

I N N OVAT I V E T E X T U R E S E RV I C E : T E X T U R E TA N D E M

Ammonia-free colour gloss treatments, Cellophanes illuminate hair with shine, depth and tone for four to six weeks. Ideal for all hair types and textures, Cellophanes come in nine intermixable shades that can be custom-blended to suit everyone’s individual look. Pick and apply your Cellophane shade. It’s really that easy.

The ultimate texturizing and conditioning therapy, Texture Tandem services are simply genius. Locking in moisture for up to five shampoos, Tandem services can be customized to suit every individual. Used either before or after a cut or colour service, the result is instant volume and soft locks a client can flaunt.

forward YOUR THINKING

Go to salon52.ca for more on Sebastian in-salon services

Superior technology is the way of the future. It’s what yields unparalleled results.

gloss shines as bright,” says Panuccio. “Colours come out beautifully with a variety of reflective hues.”

“There’s nothing like Texture Tandem on the market… period,” says Sebastian core team stylist Daniele Panuccio. “Other volumizing products simply don’t match its level of performance.”

In Panuccio’s experience, “These services are quick and simple—great to work with. They go straight from bottle to bowl to hair.” Completely customizable, they’re also a great way to generate extra revenue. “Nothing comes close to this duo of services.”

Ideal for colour commitment-phobes or those sensitive to peroxide or ammonia, Cellophanes offer the same calibre of perfomance. “After one use, you’ll see no other hair

Demand it at your salon. Info: www.sebastianprofessional.com.

Together. A passion for hair

Supernatural New Essensity superb natural performance: Health, ecology and product effectiveness in colour, care & styling. Contains: Purest organic essences & essential oils drawn by innovative, efficient extraction techniques. Doesn‘t contain: Artificial fragrances, silicones, paraffin-/mineral oils, parabens. The result: Healthy looking hair, natural shine and a velvety, beautiful touch.

ESSENSITY COLOUR

CARE

STYLING

GREEN TIP: BE MINDFUL OF THE AMOUNT OF COLOUR WHICH YOU MIX. NOT ONLY WILL THIS SAVE IN SALON COSTS, YOU WILL ALSO HELP ELIMINATE UNNECESSARY WASTE. ASK YOUR STYLIST FOR ESSENSITY. FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 1-800-463-3081 OR VISIT SCHWARZKOPF-PROFESSIONAL.CA

Take service to the next level with the Goldwell Colour Cycle Colour brings out the best in a fabulous cut. Colour is a creative challenge. Colour also represents the highest growth potential within the salon today.

The Colour Cycle D e D i c at e D to c o lo u r P e r f e c t i o n .

Goldwell recognizes that colour is much more than the application of a tint. Colour is a holistic process, from the initial professional consultation to the individual home care prescription. For this reason, Goldwell created the Colour Cycle, a comprehensive colourcare program designed to wow clients and keep them coming back to you.

Pre-Colour Preparation - In salon

Colour Consultation - In salon

To achieve that perfect shade, stylists must analyse the condition of the client’s hair and prep it accordingly by removing alkaline or peroxide residue or unwanted product buildup.

It’s essential to understand a client’s wants and needs. Goldwell’s ColorFlow Shade Presentation and true-to-tone swatches give you the right tools to effectively communicate with your clients.

colorglow[IQ] Pre-Color Products help create the ideal foundation for vibrant, long-lasting colour results. Preparation Shampoo removes product buildup that may hinder even colour deposit, while Structure Equalizer smoothes the surface of slightly stressed hair, and Instant Structure Repair evens out extreme structural damage.

nce Colour ena Co t n ns ai M

Po s

Scientifically proven to prolong colour up to 3x longer, colorglow[IQ] is the most effective premium colour support system for complete at-home care.*

2 1 3 5 4

rivice C ur Se olo olo ur t-C

Every stylist knows that the right at-home care is a critical part of colour longevity. Now it’s time to get this message across to your clients by prescribing the correct colour maintenance products.

Pre-Colour P rep ar

Colour Service

Colour Maintenance - At home

on ati l u

on ati

AT S A L O

Post-Colour Service - In salon

dualsenses hair care allows your clients to see and feel lasting results from one colour service to the next. The outcome is a balanced, glossy look that does not weigh hair down. *As tested versus premium professional colour care brands.

Once the colour service is complete, the use of special post-colour products specifically designed for application after colour services will prolong the vibrancy and intensity of the colour and keep hair in optimum condition. colorglow[IQ] Color Finish Serums provide long-lasting care targeted to the colour service that was performed. With a colour-specific 3-phase action, these potent treatments seal in colour with a rich, glossy effect and proven prolonged colour retention for up to 22 washes* * With Color Finish Serum application directly after colour service and using cologlow[IQ] shampoo.

Colour Service - In salon With Goldwell’s complete assortment of colour products, stylists can provide individualized colour, tone or highlight services. The Goldwell Topchic permanent colour system, for example, allows for optimum creativity and reliability. The Natural series provides 100% grey coverage even on the most resistant hair. Highlift Shades deliver beautiful blondes in just one step. Topchic Max Reds deliver breathtaking intensity that lasts longer than ever before. Goldwell’s Colorance demi-permanent colour provides ultra-shiny results in over 60 intermixable shades.

Enhance your Professional Life with Great Lengths® The Salon industry evolves and moves at an incredible pace. As a salon professional, securing and retaining clients is essential to a profitable business. It’s your choice when it comes to hair enhancements! Great Lengths® sets the standard in hair quality, education and support; coupled with your creative direction and business savvy, you can join industry leaders in hair enhancement and extension technologies. It’s proven that Great Lengths® services offered by certified artists, are consistently in demand, attract and retain clientele, are highly profitable, and present infinite creative styling possibilities. Interested in joining the Great Lengths® artistic network? Perhaps you’re already a certified Great Lengths® Extension Artist and wish to upgrade your service offerings with the technically advanced cold fusion method. For detailed information, call today and speak to a Great Lengths® expert Service Consultant. Don’t wait another day to take the first step towards a profitable way to build your professional salon career!

Call 800.461.9302 or visit greatlengthscanada.com for certification opportunities nearest you

UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS Now offering classes on Classic 3200 Thermal System & Ultra Sonic 5000 Cold Fusion! TORONTO MONTREAL

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October 25–26

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths® Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@greatlengthscanada.com.

52 L’Oréal Professionnel’s Folk&Rock Collection

OCTOBer.09 A guide to troubleshooting a few common colour conundrums

COlOur yOur wOrlD

COlOur Her HAPPy

What colour—and not the kind in a tube—can mean for your salon business

Toronto-based stylist Adriana Balea tells the story of her rise to colourist superstardom

salon > october 09

magazine

the business of beauty and style

colour

FeATureS 50 HAir COlleCTiONS

all about

plus gearing up for Contessa 21

Looks from La Biosthetique, L’Oréal

Professionnel, Redken and more

HOliDAy TreATS

CONTeSSA Semi-FiNAliSTS

This year’s top holiday promos

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

33 SPeCiAl COlOur SeCTiON 33 wHeN COlOur GOeS wrONG

l salon

se.o.09.cover.3-0.indd 10

october 09 $5 salon52.ca

9/1/09 10:14:15 AM

Cover design: Gillian Tsintziras Photos (clockwise from top left): istock; courtesy CND, courtesy On the Fringe Hair Design; Hair Chrystopher Benson, photo Joseph Cartright; Hair Joey Scandizzo, photo Andrew O’Toole; Hair Benson, photo Cartright; Hair Adriana Balea, photo Babak; Hair Benson, photo Cartright; Hair Balea, photo Babak; Hair Scandizzo, photo O’Toole

salon52.ca

NEW HIGH RISE STYLES REACH NEW HEIGHTS

hard wax

Raise your style standards. Maximum control wax creates stand up shapes that defy gravity with a natural finish. Long-lasting style memory keeps hair where you want it. Redken For MenTM: High performance has never been so low maintenance.

SHELF LIFE Six new products your clients will love

REGULARS 16 EDITOR’S LETTER 18 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 20 SALON52.CA

Contessa Gallery: Davide Fattore

This month on salon52.ca

HAIRLINES Tigi relaunches the Catwalk line p.22; Schwarzkopf Professional introduces new, intense shades p.24; Redken for Men relaunches Color Camo p.24; Matrix unveils a new SoColor formula book p.24; Goldwell launches a new formula for better grey coverage p.26; Robert Lobetta is coming to EC Academy p.26; A sneak peek at the Contessa show’s star lineup p.26;

Nails : The latest crop of top coats

Essensity Inspired by Nature contest winner announced p.28; New high-performance tools from Tigi p.28; Shelf Life has six new products your clients will love p.30

Hairlines: Tigi introduces the Catwalk Your Highness Volume Collection

salon > october 09

66 70

CONTESSA GALLERY Davide Fattore talks about his C20 BC Hairstylist of the Year collection

NAILS CND relaunches its entire polish line p.70;

ESTHETICS The how-tos of combining medical and traditional esthetic services

A third location of On the Fringe Hair Design opens in downtown Vancouver

88 91

The latest innovative top-coats p.70; Minx hits Canada p.72

INTERIORS

SCOOP EVENTS Coverage of the 20th annual North American Hairstyling Awards, Cosmoprof 09, Maurice Fiorio’s 60th birthday and more

LAST WORD by John Steinberg

salon52.ca

FIRST LADY OF NAILS Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, Executive VP & Artistic Director of OPI, talks beauty, fashion, color and lifestyle

ONE COLOR. FOR ALL WOMEN. PINK OF HEARTS 2009 EDITION OPI's Exclusive Nail Lacquer for Breast Cancer Awareness Month Please join me in showing your support for all women in the fight against breast cancer. OPI Pink of Hearts 2009 Edition Nail Lacquer continues OPI’s commitment to that fight and to keeping all women aware. Our third exclusive Nail Lacquer created to benefit Susan G. Komen for the Cure®, and Rethink Breast Cancer in Canada, Pink of Hearts 2009 is a pretty, empowering light pink – a color meant to inspire and uplift. Retail Pink of Hearts 2009 in its 8-piece display to give your ccustomers the chance to support this cause – and your ea ch h other. each I ssupport In up p of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, in 2009 OPII will OP w make a donation of $25,000 to Susan G. Komen forr th fo tthe h Cure. OPI will also make a $5,000 donation to R Re etth thin Breast Cancer in Canada. Rethink Suzi Weiss-Fischmann OPI Executive Vice President & Artistic Director For more information about Susan G. Komen for the Cure, visit www.komen.org or call 1-877 GO KOMEN. For more information about Rethink Breast Cancer, go to www.rethinkbreastcancer.com

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE Features OPI's exclusive ProWide™ Brush.

Try it on at opi.com Read more from Suzi at suzisbeautyblog.com

EDITOR’S LETTER

SALON LOYALTY PROGRAM

Are YOU collecting points? Enroll online and receive a free gift. promo code > salon magazine

salon merchandise salon tools salon accessories salon education Visit www.clubSKP.com or ask your Sales Consultant or Technical Advisor for details.

PHOTO BABAK

www.clubskp.com 1.800.463.3081

In Honour of Colour

olour means so much in this industry: it’s a science, an art, a huge revenue generator. Colour can heighten someone’s self-esteem, create a signature look or simply cover up a few grey hairs. But what happens when a colour service goes wrong? Unfortunately, as many of you out there have experienced, the power of colour can go both ways, yielding unwelcome and even disastrous results if not mixed or applied properly. Thankfully, there are tons of educational options these days. Stylists need only reach out to their manufacturer or distributor of choice for hands-on and practical training. Also, Salon’s network of top colour talent is also available to you. Check out colour troubleshooting tips from some of the best in the industry in our feature story, When Colour Goes Wrong (page 33). Switching gears and looking at the effects of colour in the salon environment, Colour Your World (page 48) explores the benefits of adding splashes Colour Your World, of power pigments to a salon interior. Could the page 48 popularity of white-on-white design concepts be hindering our industry’s bottom line? Read on and decide for yourself. Also, be sure to check out our profile of Romanian-born colour star Adriana Balea in Colour Her Happy (page 68) and the latest batch of hair collections (page 50). Finally, it’s Contessa time once again. This year’s theme is colour, and we’re ready for a spectacular celebration of Canadian talent. Call 416.869.3131 ext 108 to book your tickets today. I can’t wait to see you there!

Colour Her Happy, page 68

Together. A passion for hair 16

salon > october 09

Morella Aguirre Editor-in-Chief

salon52.ca

PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 18 issue 09

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com AssociAtE Art dirEctor

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com AssistAnt Editor

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com EditoriAl AssistAnt

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com copy Editor

AWeek in Contessa Life

Fran Schechter

publishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com dirEctor of sAlEs And nEw businEss dEvElopMEnt

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@beautynet.com sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samantha@beautynet.com

Hair Bill rowley PHoto BaBaK

salon > october 09

Malorie Gilbert

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras

EditoriAl intErn

Pam Fulford

contributors

his time of year is one of the most rewarding for us here at Salon. When Contessa deadline rolls around we get pumped. It’s very exciting for all of us to see beauty pros flooding through our doors, entry in hand—they’re proud, nervous and so excited. It never gets tired. One morning in August I got into the office early and a delivery had come in, so I signed for the package since no one was in yet. The postman said, “Well, it’s that time again, huh?” With my head down signing for the package, I asked him what he was referring to. He replied, “The awards, the Contessas.” I instantly looked up and asked him how he knew about the Contessas. He said he had been working in the building for five years and was well aware that for a few days in August he would have to make many trips to our office to deliver the copious number of packages we receive. I walked away, shaking my head. Gee whiz, what does it mean when our postie even knows about the Contessas? That same week, I’m skulking around the office, knowing not to disturb the Contessa data inputting team or our editors, as it’s a beehive of activity and they’re busy sorting through the entries. But I’m dying to find out the number of entries coming in. Same as last year? More? Less? I get a bit of eye-rolling. By the Monday prior to this year’s deadline, Morella, our editor-in-chief, had given me a guestimate number. It was lower than expected and a bit disappointing—but understandable considering the economy. Finally, one week later, with all the entries processed, we got the grand total and it’s a record-breaking number of entries! I’m shocked and thrilled. What does it all mean? We’re seeing a lot of new names, an increase in the student category, plus in other categories too. Maybe the buzz on Facebook played a role. One thing I do know for sure, competition is alive and well in Canada. Although more entries mean stiffer competition, that never stood in the way of Canadians, eh? Be sure to check out this issue for the semi-finalist list and salon52.ca for all you need to know about this year’s Contessa Awards.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

sEnior stAff writEr

sAlEs AssociAtE

Lindsay Newton > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | lindsay@beautynet.com production MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com AssistAnt to thE publishEr

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com circulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca AccountAnt

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com businEss AdMinistrAtor

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com chAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vicE-prEsidEnt & wEst coAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@beautynet.com

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50USd A ddrE ss ch A n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

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salon52.ca

New Topchic TriFlective Naturals

THE FIRST MULTI-DEPTH REFLECTING HAIR COLOUR –

100% GREY COVERAGE INCLUDED.

With predictable results and ease of formulation you only experience with Topchic. For more information please contact your GOLDWELL Sales Consultant or call 1-877-670-6767. For availability of Goldwell Haircare Products across Canada call KPSS Canada Ltd. Client Services: 1-800-387-3873

DEDIC AT ED T O C OL O UR P ERFEC T ION .

www.goldwell-northamerica.com

Topchic TriFlective Naturals’ innovative Reflects3 System guarantees full grey coverage with multi-depth reflection – for vibrant, natural and shimmering colour results.

salon52.ca what’s on

october 09

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

Who made the cut? Head to salon52.ca to view the Contessa 21 finalist collections!

The Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards

collections > JOEY SCANDIZZO - Aqua > LA BIOSTHETIQUE - B ackstage > REDKEN - F al l Trends 09

s52 twitter Not able to be in Toronto for this year’s Contessa Awards? Just follow @Salon_Magazine on Twitter and join us as we live-tweet the Contessa gala on Nov. 1! And in the meantime, get up-to-the-minute beauty news. Not a Twitter member? You can still follow the action by going to twitter.com/Salon_Magazine.

s52 giveaways WIN ONE OF FIVE TIGI PRO PRIZE PACKS! Go to salon52.ca/giveaways and enter to win one of ﬁve prizes from Tigi Pro valued at $300 USD. Each prize contains one Professional Flat Iron, Mini Iron, Blow Dryer and set of sectioning clips.

straight to your inbox!

See the latest collections, ﬁnd out about our newest contests and giveaways and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign up today.

salon > october 09

salon52.ca

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hairlines

backstage

Hair: Tigi International creative team Makeup: Pat Mascolo Wardrobe: Jiv D Photos: Anthony Mascolo and Roberto Aguilar

Pump up the Volume For style that reaches new altitudes, Tigi introduces the Catwalk Your Highness Volume Collection

rmed with Catwalk’s recently relaunched Your Highness Volume Collection, Tigi’s international creative team—Anthony and Pat Mascolo, Akos Bodi, Roberto Aguilar and Nick Irwin—executed a high-fashion photo shoot to put the new products to the ultimate test. The order of the day’s shoot was to amp up volume as the team prepped, styled and polished three models using all three new Catwalk product categories—Prep It, Work It and Perfect It. The result is a collection of images with ample height, ultraluxe waves and, of course, extreme volume. Learn more at salon52.ca.

PREP IT

PERFECT IT

Your Highness Elevating Shampoo and Nourishing Conditioner The foundation of great hair always begins in the shower. This shampoo and conditioner duo increases body and movement while upping fullness and shine.

Your Highness Firm Hold Hairspray and Weightless Shine Spray The new firm hold spray wards off static and protects against UV rays while the shine spray gives that added touch of sheen and shields hair from thermal damage.

salon > october 09

WORK IT Your Highness Root Boost Spray and Thickening Gel Crème Not wanting to mess with a classic, Root Boost remains with its original hair-plumping formula. Using soy protein, the thickening gel creates fullness with just one-to-three pumps of product.

salon52.ca

Cuddle with Color

Fall Collection A N GORA C ARD I C HINCHILLY

ANGORA CARDI

MINK MUFFS

M I D N I GH T C AM I

B R I GH T TI GH TS

PINK PARKA

718.726.5000

800.232.1155

www.essie.com

CONTAINS NO FORMALDEHYDE, DBP OR TOLUENE

HAIRLINES

Royals Rule Schwarzkopf Professional launches Igora Royal Intense+ It’s time to stock up the colour bar and put out the extra towels: the holiday season is just around the corner. Hitting salons in November, just as everyone has glitzy colour and party-perfect hair on the brain, is Schwarzkopf Professional’s latest colour innovation, eight new Igora Royal Intense+ shades. Offering lively, long-lasting and potent colour in a range of reds, coppers and violets, these new Igora shades are formulated with SKP’s PY+ complex, an ingredient allowing intense colour pigments to permeate the cuticle and give extra colour stability. The Royal Intense+ line also contains Igora’s Color Crystal Complex to create perfect tone. Plus, Miracle Tree proteins protect hair during the colouring process, giving a soft, shiny finish your clients will adore.

Dark and Dashing Redken relaunches Color Camo Although some guys out there love the silver fox look, many don’t want a full head of white hair. They want a mix—a little pepper to go along with their salt. Enter Redken for Men’s Color Camo Renovation and its six newly reformulated shades. Perfect for guys who don’t want to spend their whole afternoon chatting it up at the salon, Color Camo services only take a short five-to-10 minutes and give as much or as little coverage as desired. Plus, the gentle, ammonia-free formula has a gel consistency, allowing for easy and even application with no drip factor to worry about.

salon > october 09

Creativity Unleashed Matrix unveils new formula book Taking the guesswork out of creating everything from beautiful blondes to achieving great white hair coverage is the new Matrix SoColor Formula Book. Featuring top Matrix colour masters from across the country, this 24-formula guide is designed to inspire a colourist’s creativity and increase his or her skill level. Formulations also have fun and cheeky titles like French Vanilla, Hot Vibrant Ginger, Brazilian Chocolate or Sparkling Champagne, to name a few.

salon52.ca

PHOTO COURTESY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS 111TH EDITION: PART II

news

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shine and conditioning to your hair, and

with rare natural ingredients including moistur-

protects while you heat-style or straighten. The

izing Hemp Seed extract and Argan Oil, known

lightweight extracts absorb instantly, leaving no

for a thousand years for its incredibly rich ben-

greasy residue. Marrakesh Oil softens unruly hair

efits for hair and skin to create one of the most

while offering protection from the elements.

unique hair-care elixirs on the market today.

NEW!! MARRAKESH LIGHT FOR THIN OR FINE HAIR TYPES.

For more information about Earthly Body products and to find a distributor near you, please call 1.800.268.2242 or visit us at www.firstladyproducts.com.

hairlines

news

photo courtesy evelinecharles academy

Get Colourful

This year’s gala promises to be bigger and better than ever Get ready for an explosion of creativity at this year’s contessa gala, happening on nov. 1, 2009, at toronto’s sheraton centre hotel. hosted by emcee Bill rowley and with colour as its theme, the show promises to be nothing short of spectacular. three colour-packed segments—jewels, pastels and neons—will be presented along with the night’s hardware. sKp’s bringing rubies, sapphires and emeralds to centre stage with lengthy manes and a wardrobe fit for royalty. matrix’s roch lemay will take an edgy approach with

a techno-inspired segment featuring geometric styles and pastel pigments. capping it all off will be Joico’s damien carney and sue pemberton, who are bringing the neon and big hair of the 80s back into style with colourful updos that defy gravity. lastly, attendees will get to meet and greet with the king of beach hair. that’s right, australian hairstyling sensation Kevin murphy is scheduled to attend the contessas this year. he’s going to be there… will you?

Call 416.869.3131 ext 108 to order your tickets today. Ticket price: $140 before Oct. 8; $155 before Oct. 21; $180 until event date.

Higher Learning The EvelineCharles Academy invites Robert Lobetta to speak on nov. 9 at 7 p.m., the edmonton city centre will be buzzing as students and industry pros eagerly await the arrival of robert lobetta, iconic stylist and global creative director for the sebastian Brand. don’t miss the opportunity to hear lobetta share his vast 35-plus years of experience and knowledge of the beauty industry. tickets are $100 available, at tixonthesquare.ca. For more info, call 780.409.5675.

Hidden Secret

Goldwell launches a new formula that takes grey coverage to the next level Goldwell is meeting the needs of the 45-to-65 demographic by introducing a new formula called Triflective Naturals into its Topchic permanent and Colorance demipermanent lines. Both lines are infused with the innovative Reflects3 System,

salon > october 09

a grey coverage solution with multidimensional results. How so? A perfect concentration of natural intensive reflects covers grey hair, plus two integrated colour reflects ensure a natural, dimensional shimmer. Find out more at salon52.ca.

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HAIRLINES

news

Dearest Dad

ASSISTANT NATASHA BRINSTON MAKE-UP ARTIST JANELL PINTOPHOTOGRAPHER SHARE CANNON (WHITE LOTUS IMAGING)

tool of the month

Getting Back to Nature Schwarzkopf Professional announces Essensity contest winners

he Essensity Inspired by Nature contest winner has been chosen. Congratulations to Kristy Nickerson from Chrome Spa Salon in Edmonton, who received top nod for creating the best nature-themed image using Essensity colour, care and styling products. Watch out for Nickerson’s re-creation of the winning look, titled Prairie Gold, to be shot by renowned fashion photog Kint Quon and featured in the March 2010 issue of Salon Magazine. To see all regional winners go to salon52.ca

salon > october 09

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FEATURES: Compact and lightweight (1.5 lbs) to relieve Repetitive Strain Injury normally caused by repetitive blow-drying •1900W AC Johnson Motor with 1500-hour lifespan • Multiple air flow directionals for fast and efficient styling • Cold shut button allows for instantly setting style

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FEATURES: Solid hinge and serrated edge give a strong, no-slip grip • Tapered point guarantees precision sectioning • 12 centimetres long and ideal for various hair types

www • Enter now to win all three tools plus a set of sectioning clips on salon52.ca. Contest runs from Oct. 2 to 15, 2009.

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hairlines

shelf life

Six new products your clients will love 1

4 gellin’ Offering rich hues in a non-chip formula, IBD’s new Dream Gels nail kit features six shades in a deep, fall colour palette. Info: ibdnails.com

may the force be with you L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Force Vector line, is designed to heal and prevent breakage of the hair shaft. Enriched with royal jelly extract, it’s ideal for clients with damaged or chemically treated locks. Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca

quality cutting Available in three sizes, the latest set of Joewell shears from the FX-Pro series features wellbalanced blades for ultimate precision, an ergonomically designed twisted finger ring and a dry bearing system. Info: firstladyproducts.com

deliciously fresh Cuccio Naturalé presents a line of body washes infused with notes like pomegranate, fig and honey. With jojoba beads for added exfoliation, the washes promote cell turnover so skin looks and feels refreshed. Info: cuccio.com

designer babe Shimmery and gleaming, these two new polishes from OPI’s Designer Series are sure to be a hit with clients. Named Mystery and Glow, these hues are ultra-glittery—the perfect shades for the mid-season. Info: opi.com S

www • For more of the latest products check out salon52.ca

salon > october 09

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Photo Chris tsintziras text Malorie gilbert

skin smart Dermalogica has launched a line called Clean Start, created to assist teens in achieving and maintaining clear, hydrated skin. Targeted to correct blemishes and oily skin, this line features everything from matte moisturizers to spray-on toners and spot treatments. Info: dermalogica.com

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When Colour Goes WronG

A guide to troubleshooting a few common colour conundrums

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We all make mistakes. And although most people out there will tell you that what’s really important is learning from our mistakes, colour clients aren’t always so understanding. The hard truth is that colourists don’t have the luxury of giving someone brassy highlights and just sending them out into the world while they sit back at the salon contemplating what exactly went wrong and why. Colour mistakes need to be fixed quickly and intelligently, before a client walks out of your salon. To complicate matters, colour pros are often asked to correct the mistakes of others. So what’s a colourist to do? Although education is always the answer, we’ve compiled a few common colour-gone-wrong scenarios to give you some key troubleshooting techniques. t

Product sPills istock; model Photos JuPiterimAGes

By Morella Aguirre and Melissa Brazier

october 09 < salon

CHERRY GONE SOUR Scenario 1: A budget-conscious 20-something fashionista lands a new job and wants to celebrate with a new cut and colour. Not only does she want a sleek bob, she wants her light neutralbrown and highlighted hair to be an intense cherry red. Her colourist decides to go with a permanent colour and add a bit of red booster to intensify the effect. After this first formulation processes and is rinsed, the result isn’t intense enough for the client. The colourist boosts it a second time with a demi-permanent shade. The result is the electrifying cherry red that the client craved. Happy with the immediate result, the client heads home to her regular beauty regime. She washes her hair every day after the gym and keeps using her same old drugstore product. After a short two weeks, her colour has lost its original vibrancy and its tone is also quite off, looking pinkish and not cherry red at all. She goes back to the salon once more, this time asking to go blonde instead.

“Firstly, the client was not aware of all the implications of choosing such an intense and vibrant colour,” says Roch Lemay, director of education and events for Matrix Canada. “Before colouring anyone with a very intense fashion colour or when taking someone’s hair two or more levels darker, it is important to determine if the client likes to change his or her hair colour often,” warns Lemay, adding that going with bold colours can limit future colour possibilities. “A corrective process of filling or pre-pigmentation with a demi-permanent colour should also have been considered,” says Susan Boccia, national trainer for Schwarzkopf Professional. “Light hair doesn’t have any red colour in it, and with this client shampooing everyday, there will not be enough red pigment to support this look.” Finally, there was no professional recommendation for at-home care, leaving the client to self-serve at the drugstore.

Damage Control Unfortunately, damage control options are very limited here. Furthermore, knowing exactly what type of colour products were used to achieve the original cherry red look—whether it was an oxidative dye, a direct dye or a combination of both—is critical to determining what

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colour correction possibilities exist. “Oxidative dyes give a strong foundation, while direct dyes give the most vibrancy. A lot of manufacturers now combine these two technologies to create powerful and intense reds,” explains Lemay. The consequence, however, is that direct dyes are almost impossible to remove, which means that if a formula containing direct dye was used, you may only be able to take your client to a warm strawberry or somewhere into the light browns. “On the other hand, if only one application of oxidative dye was applied, there is a possibility to achieve a warm blonde,” continues Lemay. “Since red dyes are very small pigments and penetrate deeply into the core of hair, you would need to work with a bleach at a very slow speed, a maximum of 20 volume (6%), in order to achieve this. Working at such a slow speed will give the bleach time to find all the colour molecules in the hair cortex to lift the hair to the desired level.” Once hair is rinsed, analyse the result and tone hair with a toner that is one level darker and has the appropriate base to neutralize warmth.

Colour Control Tip #1 When introducing red pigment into hair for the ﬁrst time taking, or taking a client two levels or more darker, Susan Boccia, national trainer for Schwarzkopf Professional, recommends a ﬁlling or pre-pigmentation process to achieve a longer-lasting result.

▼

The Problem

And how can we avoid this in future? It’s simple: proper consultation, analysis and communication. salon52.ca

BAND EFFECT Scenario 2: A regular high-lift client, a natural dark blonde who likes extra-light results, normally visits the salon every four weeks. Due to a hectic work schedule, she does not make it to her colour appointment until a full seven weeks after her last application. Her colourist applies the usual formula all over the new growth and processes it as usual. Once the client’s hair is dry, they both notice that there is a very obvious band around her head.

Damage Control

The client’s re-growth should have been treated as a virgin colour application. Also, different formulations—one for the re-growth, one for the mid-shaft and perhaps a different one for the ends, should have been used. Since hair grows approximately 1 to 1.2 centimetres per month, the client in this scenario must have had significant re-growth. Because re-growth is young hair that is not fully keratinized, has never been coloured and is close to the heat of the scalp, it will always lighten quickly. However, this rule only applies to re-growth that is 1.2 centimetres or shorter. When re-growth is longer than this, it needs to be treated as fresh application of colour on virgin hair. Treating it as a regular re-growth touch-up will lead to a band effect, as colour near the demarcation line will not get fully processed.

Boccia, who notes that the band area will generally be very warm and often an orange-y colour, advises neutralizing hair with a cool demi-permanent shade of the same level. “Apply your demi to just the band and process visually until it’s toned.” Another route, suggests Lemay, is to use a mild decolourization process, then rinse, shampoo, condition and tone to match the colour.

salon > october 09

And how can we avoid this in future? When working with blondes, what goes on the scalp area rarely goes on the ends, so formulate for different parts of the hair strand. Also, remember to treat re-growth that is longer than 1.2 centimetres as a virgin application.

Colour Control Tip #2 “Too many colourists use peroxide way too often,” says Janinne Cleary, Dikson platform artist and artistic director of Excel Spa in Vancouver, noting that this may lead to overprocessing and fading. “I would recommend mixing highlights and low-lights,” she adds, explaining that this will give a multi-dimensional effect, without having to use as much peroxide. ▼

The Problem

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HOT HIGHLIGHTS Scenario 3: It’s a busy Friday afternoon at the salon, and a woman in her early 30s with curly, medium-brown virgin hair walksin asking for a full head of caramel highlights. The salon manager pairs her up with a junior colourist who’s quite talented but not at full service speed just yet. The colourist formulates his bleach with a 20 volume (6%) peroxide and gets to the foil application, starting at the nape and working his way to the front. After what seems like over an hour, his application is complete. He gives it 20 minutes and goes to check on the highlights. Since the foils at the crown have reached the desired colour result, the client is sent to sink for shampooing. Once she’s rinsed, the colourist notices an obvious mistake: the hair at the nape is noticeably lighter than at the front, and it doesn’t look good.

“Over-processing at the back and improper formulation,” says Stacey Staley, owner of Blonde Salon in Toronto. “A lot of inexperienced stylists will take double the time an experienced colourist takes to do a full set of highlights,” she adds. Although this could lead to overprocessing, the situation can be avoided with the right timing and formulation techniques.

Damage Control According to Staley, since the colour at the crown reached the desired level of lift, it’s best to use a demi-permanent at the back to match the colour at the front. For best results, do a strand test before committing to a shade. And if the colourist is concerned about the client becoming aware of the situation, Staley suggests applying a clear demi-permanent to the area that reached the right level of lightness. “Your client will never know the difference!”

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And how can we avoid this in future? Although starting foils at the nape, where hair is naturally darker, denser and requires a longer processing time, generally promotes even results, slow-foiling colourists should work with two different formula strengths, beginning with a 10 volume (3%) developer at the back area and going to a 20 volume (6%) at the last half of the application, for example. “The other option is keeping an eye on your placement,” says Brennen DeMelo, owner of Toronto’s Brennen DeMelo Studios and ID artist for L’Oréal Professionnel. “Rinse out the back and leave the front for their whole processing time,” he explains, adding that at his salon he actually encourages using techniques other than foiling, like colour blocking, splicing or bailagestyle highlighting. However, if foil highlights are still a staple at your salon, it’s critical for beginner colourists to work on upping their speed by practising on a good old mannequin head.

Colour Control Tip #3 Be careful when using powerful developers close to the head. “The heat at the scalp gives more lifting action, which can give hot roots,” says Stacey Staley, owner of Blonde Salon. ▼

The Problem

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AT-HOME CHEAP-O Scenario 4: A woman in her 30s with premature grey has been colouring at home for a few years. Recently, she’s been having to choose darker and darker shades in order to achieve coverage. Finding that her hair has become monochromatic, too dark and lacking shine, she decides it’s time to consult a professional. She would like lighter, natural-looking hair colour in rich chestnut tones.

Obviously, the issue here is use of home colour—one of the most challenging colour correction scenarios for any salon professional. “With drugstore dyes, we don’t know exactly what we’re dealing with,” says Chad Taylor, coowner of Moods Salon in Vancouver. “Darker colours in particular can be very difficult to remove. Also, the health of the hair has likely been compromised, causing uneven porosity and unpredictability.” Wendy Van Weert, Wella educator and colourist at Coupe Bizzarre in Toronto, adds that box colour with stronger ammonia or a metallic base may react with salon products, overheating and causing damage. She also notes that natural henna dyes may be especially difficult to remove. See Colour Control Tip #4 for more on henna dyes.

Damage Control Colourists need to proceed with extreme caution and always begin with a very thorough consultation. Key things to look out for include the kind of colour that was used (permanent, semi or natural botanic vegetable dye), the number of times a particular product was used and the

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client’s history of colour and chemical services going back one-to-three years (depending on hair length). Once you’ve determined a colour correction strategy, it’s critical to always do a strand test. And finally, according Rodica Hristu, master colourist at Toronto’s De Berardinis Salon & Spa and guest artist for KPSS Canada, it’s always best to under-promise and over-deliver when doing this type of colour correction. In other words, don’t guarantee a specific result. As for technical options, Lemay suggests adding highlights for dimension and lightening the rest with a mild bleach to one level lighter than the target colour. According to Hristu, a bleach cocktail is your best choice of lightener. Next, both Hristu and Lemay advise toning hair with a demi-permanent, always keeping in mind the influence of underlying pigments.

Colour Control Tip #4 Roch Lemay, director of education and events for Matrix Canada, advises to be extra-wary of at-home, natural henna dyes. True henna creates a seal, similar to wax on flooring, making it impossible for salon products to penetrate hair. There is also a modified henna product available that offers multitonal results. However, if combined with salon products, these modified henna dyes may create added heat that can damage hair or turn hair slightly green. ▼

The Problem

And how can we avoid this in future? Sue Pemberton, international artistic director, colour for Joico, says it best: “The client broke the most basic principle of hair colouring: Don’t colour your hair at home. Leave it to the professionals.” salon52.ca

BRASSY BRUNETTE Scenario 5: A new client with long, coarse and natural medium brown hair arrives at the salon asking for a few caramel highlights. The colourist mixes a medium golden blonde with 40 volume (12%) peroxide. Once highlighting application is complete, the colourist sets the processing time for 45 minutes. Part way through the processing time, the colourist examines the highlights and, deciding they are ready, takes the client to the sink for shampooing. Once the client is rinsed, the colourist notices the highlights aren’t caramel at all, but rather a brassy, orange-y tone.

The Problem

Damage Control

A few major issues occurred in this scenario. First of all, Lemay notes that the wrong colour formulation was used. “In this case, the underlying pigment of the client’s natural hair would be yellow-orange. So, using a golden blonde will result in a very warm golden orange colour.” Boccia agrees, adding that choice of colour was also perhaps too light. “A 40 volume (12%) developer will give you three to four levels of lift. If that is too light for the natural colour of hair, there will not be enough controlling pigment in the formula to counterbalance the underlying pigment in the hair.” The result for this client was that warm underlying pigments were exposed, contributing to a brassy look. Next, the client was rinsed before full colour development. Hristu explains that during a colour service, hair is lifted during the first half and colour pigments are deposited in the second half, and adds that if timing is not respected, the second part of the colouring process is compromised. This means that even if an appropriate formulation was used, the desired result would not be achieved.

Although the result may be darker than the client originally requested, one troubleshooting option is to tone hair with an ash base demi-colour at the same level of the highlight. (The ash tone will counteract the orange tone.) The other possibility is to re-foil the highlights and lighten them with a mild bleach up to one level lighter than the target colour. Once you achieve the level, rinse, shampoo and condition the hair. Then tone the hair with the target colour, again taking into consideration the influence of underlying pigments.

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And how can we avoid this in future? First and foremost, it’s essential to have a solid understanding of the natural underlying pigments in hair and how they influence colour results. And for this, education is key. “Go to as many classes as possible,” says Hristu. “Collect hair at the salon and do strand tests. Don’t wait. Get out there and learn as much as you can.” Next, Taylor says, “Always make sure the colour is deposited for full processing time according to manufacturer’s instructions in order to complete the full deposit.”

Colour Control Tip #5 A good working knowledge and understanding of underlying pigments is critical in hair colouring. “You have to know what colours can artiﬁcially replace an underlying pigment,” says Brennen DeMelo, owner of Brennen DeMelo Studios and ID artist for L’Oréal Professionnel. “Unnatural-looking colours can appear muddy or greenish or have a matte ﬁnish.” S

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Why JOICO and figure skater Joannie Rochette make a winning team

Medal Worthy Hair : Gina Coburn Steele Makeup : Cheryl Gushue Photos : Edward Kowal

In partnership with

champion is a leader, an icon, the absolute best in an industry. This is what makes JOICO the perfect sponsor for ladies figure skater and Olympic contender Joannie Rochette. Two true Canadian champions, JOICO and Rochette stand for excellence in artistry and performance. In celebration of this partnership of champions, JOICO has launched the K-PAK GO FOR GOLD campaign, a contest-driven campaign for both the consumer and the stylist. Supporting Rochette’s journey to Vancouver 2010, K-PAK GO FOR GOLD is about helping fulfil a Canadian Olympic dream—a cause that all Canadians can feel good about. “I am so happy to be working with JOICO. I have always loved their hair products, and now we get to team up during my Olympic year,” says Rochette, a medalist at the 2009 World Championships last March. Today, as one of Canada’s top Olympic hopefuls, the Montreal-born star now has the opportunity to be the first Canadian in her field to stand on an Olympic podium in 22 years. “We are so proud of Joannie,” says Nataly Avila, marketing manager for JOICO Canada. “This is the perfect match. We both take pride in ourselves and in our artistic and technical accomplishments.”

Championship Artistry Just as Rochette brings true artistry to each performance with the help of a team of talented artists and choreographers like former Canadian ice dancer Shae-Lynn Bourne, JOICO is also backed by a group of experts who specialize in the art of healthy hair. Bringing true beauty and artistry to hair colour, the new Vero K-PAK Color custom formula swatches are the latest example. Designed by internationally acclaimed colour guru and 2009 NAHA finalist Sue Pemberton, the custom colour formulas create eye-popping pigments that are playful, bold and fit for a champion.

Championship Performance JOANNIE •

Five-time Canadian Champion

• •

K-PAK •

2009 World Championship Silver Medalist

Nine-time winner Stylist Choice Award for Best Deep Conditioner

•

Rated among the top ﬁve athletes to watch at the 2010 Olympic Games

Vero K-PAK Color is the only hair colour to reconstruct as it colours

•

K-PAK Color Therapy doubles the life of your colour vibrancy

Joannie is wearing the new Vero K-PAK Color custom formulas designed by 2009 NAHA ﬁnalist Sue Pemberton. The custom formula swatch insert is available to salons now.

Behind a Champion JOICO’s support of artistry doesn’t end with an Olympic dream. Not only is the JOICO team helping Rochette reach her goals and giving her great hair along the way; in this tough economic year, JOICO and K-PAK have developed programs aimed at returning value back to the salon and stylist.

Gina Coburn Steele, education director for JOICO Canada, gives Joannie’s new style a quick fix, while makeup artist Cheryl Gushue touches up a bold lip colour.

Giving stylists and salon-goers the chance to win big, the K-PAK GO FOR GOLD campaign and sweepstakes is your chance to get involved. By becoming a Gold Medal Salon, stylists can enter for a chance to win two tickets to this year’s Contessas—the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards, taking place November 1 in Toronto. Including airfare, accommodation and $500 spending cash, this is your chance to schmooze with the best of the best in the industry. GO FOR GOLD’s consumer grand prize includes a Sony Bravia 46” LCD TV, a JOICO makeover and a $500 product pack featuring Joannie’s favourite K-PAK products.

Stylists can also get more from JOICO by heading online. Check out the new ACCESS Joico Loyalty Program at accessjoico.ca and the new J-System educational DVDs (left) at joicoartistscanada.com. JOICO stylist Blair Richardson on set with Joannie Rochette.

For more information on K-PAK GO FOR GOLD, new K-PAK Color Therapy line, Vero K-PAK Color or any other JOICO programs, please contact your local JOICO sales person or call toll free 1-800-267-4676.

business

Colour Your World

By Anupa Mistry

What colour—and not the kind that comes out of a tube—can mean for your business

t’s rare to walk into a kaleidoscope of a salon, brightly painted in a rainbow of colours. The reason is obvious: you don’t want to overwhelm your clientele. But have salons and spas shunned colour in favour of blanketing whites and neutrals to their own detriment? “Colours have a tremendous impact on the brain,” explains Leon Alexander of Eurisko, a design, consulting and distributor source for salons. “Tests were done in England on epileptic children who were having up to five minor seizures per day. Putting them in a room and then changing the colours of that room, with no change in medication, reduced those seizures to one or two per day.” Retailing can be affected just as subliminally. Colour is just part of Alexander’s approach to environment, or what he calls environmental psychology. “Prior to designing a location in the beauty business, most people consider a client and service strategy,” he explains. “But you have to think of the people who come into your business as consumers, because

salon > october 09

La Dolcevita Day Spa and Salon, Kamloops, BC

then a whole new marketing opportunity comes up. You have to provide an experience not a service, because the future of the industry is designed around the consumer’s emotional buying needs.” Once you understand this, Alexander says, you can create an environment where people are comfortable spending money. This is done by not only presenting your products effectively and educating consumers, but also by modifying the physical aspects of your space. “Lighting, furniture, colour accents and invigorating essences can direct people to key areas in your business and create an environment conducive to buying,” he says. “The goal isn’t necessarily to increase your retailing efforts, but to maximize the potential of that retail.” Alexander suggests positioning furniture in the way you want people to walk. “The check-in desk should be behind the retail, not in front so that the consumer goes right to the salon area—that’s a missed opportunity,” he says. He also says

salon52.ca

l-r: alex legault, contessa 19, kelly funk of natural wonders photography

Spyce Spa and Hair Studio, Barrie, ON

clockwise from top: courtesy fresh & co. salon, contessa 20, sean sisk, contessa 20, Jimmy hamelin, contessa 18, alex legault, contessa 18.

Fresh & Co. Salons, Edmonton, AB

Hair Junkie by Fads, Ottawa, ON

Industria Coiffure, St. Bruno, QC

Coiffure Zhang, Montreal, QC

that putting primary products, such as shampoo and conditioner, at the back of the retail area exposes clients to more as they walk by. Also, fluorescent lighting by the sinks is harsh and stressful for an area that is supposed to be about relaxation, he explains. And when it comes to colour, you don’t have to repaint your whole salon in order to benefit. “The back wall can have an accent colour to reflect the mood for that area of your salon,” he says. The secret colour of success? “Light purple is the most conducive to buying—but that doesn’t mean you should paint your whole space purple.” Understanding the environmental psychology of your salon will help you compete with other consumer locations because, as Alexander explains, “the same consumer who goes into the grocery store goes into the salon. Retailers outside of our industry understand this, but designing locations around the emotional buying needs of a consumer is a new concept to our industry.”

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Want to know the different effects of the colour spectrum? Brown: Hunger. That’s why many fast food outlets have brown trays and accents. White to blue: Calm. Use these as your main colour with other brighter accents, or as the basis for your spa service area. Yellows and greens: Nature. These colours remind people of nature and the outdoors. Use them as accents, especially if you’ve got an eco-friendly salon, but leave the all-over forest green for health food stores. Reds and purples: Money. These colours have energy and stimulate a buying environment—but only as an accent base.

october 09 < salon

The envy hair: StĂŠphane Gallien Colour: Marc Riese photos: oliver helbig for La Biosthetique

The B-Bop hair: StĂŠphane Gallien, Colour: Marc Riese photos: oliver helbig for La Biosthetique

salon > october 09

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In Studio

La Biosthetique’s Fall/Winter collection celebrates diversity

The versus hair: Jörg Zimmer Colour: Maurizio randazzo Photos: Oliver helbig for La Biosthetique

Te x t b y T i n a C h r i s t o p o u l o s

nyone who’s ever worked on set at a photo shoot knows that the best inspiration comes from being in the moment. Last strokes of genius and final touches are what make the difference between a well-executed shoot and a goose-bump-inducing collection. Created by the ambience on set and influenced by music and the vision, thoughts, memories and attitudes of the creators, the excitement of behind-the-scenes is the starting point of Backstage Fall/Winter 2009, La Biosthetique’s latest collection. With a wild mix of cuts and styles, this collection features a graphic hairstyle referred to as the b–bop. Inspired by the coolness of Miles Davis, b–bop is angular, hard and strong, and speaks to the need to marching to the beat of your own drum. Next, the look Versus represents a clash of many styles. From 1980s disco curls to ethno’s wild, curly manes, untamed hair represents diversity and entwining cultures to create a new and unique look. The flowing, free movements of wild, unstructured curls and glamorous volume characterize the Flame. Finally, Envy is not only inspired by the mood of French New Wave cinema, but it is also in keeping with a Parisian version of sexiness, in which the head is celebrated as the most erogenous zone of the body. S

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www • To see more of La Biosthetique’s collection, visit salon52.ca.

october 09 < salon

Collection: Folk&Rock, L’Oréal Professionnel Fall-Winter 2009/2010 Hair: Marc Lopez Photos: Courtesy L’Oréal Professionnel

salon > october 09

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Popular Folk

L’Oréal Professionnel’s Fall-Winter 2009/2010 collection takes its cue from musical icons Te x t b y T i n a C h r i s t o p o u l o s

usicians are perhaps the most celebrated artists in history, withstanding the test of time and constantly demonstrating that music is people’s biggest source of inspiration. So, to celebrate its 100th anniversary, L’Oréal Professionnel drew its inspiration from the parallel and colliding worlds of rock and folk for its Fall-Winter 2009/2010 collection, aptly named Folk&Rock. Depicting women as musicians, be it the dramatic and graphic rock icon or the poetic and lyrical folk star, this collection speaks to music’s undeniable influence on pop culture. Here we focus on the Folk collection of images, illustrating a natural, subtle beauty. Reminiscent of greats like Joni Mitchell, Joan Baez and Janis Joplin, the three looks feature a long bohemian mane with beautiful sun-infused colour, a mid-length bob cut in a rounded style around the face and thinned out for lightness and long wavy locks in a unique aubergine shade. S

www • Go to salon52.ca to check out the full collection.

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october 09 < salon

Collection: Aqua Hair: Joey Scandizzo, Rokk Ebony Salon, Melbourne, Australia Colour: Marie Uva Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Wardrobe: Emma Cotterille Photos: Andrew O’Toole

salon > october 09

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Aqua Pop salon52.ca

Joey Scandizzo’s latest work takes a playful approach to style and colour Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

nspired by a clear, blue-sky background he saw in a photograph of Aussie model sensation Catherine McNeil for Vogue Australia, Joey Scandizzo created his Australian Hairdresser of the Year finalist collection with sunny and bright colours in mind. “We chose an aqua-themed background and worked with vibrant highlight colours to really make it pop,” says Scandizzo of his six-photograph collection, a range that was also designed to reflect the sun-drenched Australian lifestyle. Marie Uva, the colour technician behind these looks, incorporated palettes of white blonde, deep auburn, jet black and pale pink, purple and blue. “This is by no means a soft collection. To get that across I really wanted to use strong colours,” she explains. “To accentuate the styling, I fused one colour into another to create a seamless transition, used brighter tones in the same colour family to give a gradating effect and incorporated fading techniques using really bright tones.” S

october 09 < salon

Hair: Guido Paulo Photos: Courtesy Redken 5th Avenue

salon > october 09

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Past in Present

Redken’s latest collection channels high fashion and the high street Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

or its latest trend collection, Redken turned to its top creative consultant and runway stylist, Guido Paulo, a session mastermind who has worked with design houses like Marc Jacobs, Prada and Versace. Finding inspiration from the 40s to the 80s, this season is all about modernizing classic looks of the past. Each of the four looks is about combining textures and finishes on the same head of hair. “Anything goes,” explains Paulo, who worked with visions of 40s Paris, 50s French twists, 70s disco and 80s drama to create the looks. S

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october 09 < salon

who’s Kevin? Australian Kevin Murphy is one of the world’s most innovative session stylists. Passionate about sexy, tousled and undone hair, Murphy is pioneering the way for beach-inspired waves. Kevin.Murphy paraben- and sulfate-free wetlines and stylers have been making a splash wherever they go. Based on the basics of beautiful hair, formulations are designed to customize each client’s hair care experience. “I must insist you visit the Kevin.Murphy web site to find where you can buy these amazing products. ” —Alison McGill, Editor-in-Chief, Weddingbells

what’s Kevin?

where’s Kevin?

why Kevin?

The products.

The press tour.

The support.

Kevin.Murphy’s recently launched Protection.Line uses lightweight wheat amino acids to increase moisture retention and shield hair from heat and humidity. The highperformance, sulfate-free X-Treme Heat Protection complex guards hair up to 428˚F, so you can heat style with peace of mind.

Education director Felicity Davis recently travelled across Canada, spreading the Kevin.Murphy buzz on the beauty circuit, appearing on Citytv’s CityLine and meeting magazine editors. Kevin Murphy himself will be in Canada presenting trends on Oct. 19 in Vancouver and attending the 2010 Contessa Awards in Toronto on Nov. 1.

Kevin Murphy knows clients want the hair they see in magazines, and his educational approach arms stylists with the requisite knowhow. Basic classes offer solutions from blow-drying and finishing hair to consulting like a professional, and advanced classes help you execute the editorial looks clients crave.

Available at these distributors Ontario

kevinmurphy.com.au

800-387-2962

British Columbia

800-661-2707

Alberta, Saskatchewan & Manitoba

800-642-3818

Atlantic

902-220-4247

The Dark Side Dimitrios Tsioumas’s eerie dolls sport well-coiffed hairpieces in Fashion Forward 2009

▼

Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

osed like mannequins from the dark side, the models in Dimitrios Tsioumas’s NAHA 20 collection, Fashion Forward 2009, bring to mind avant garde imagery like something out of a gothic dollhouse. Monochromatic hairpieces are styled in various versions of the pompadour—from wispy to sleek, dynamic to wild—and perched atop black vinyl head wraps, adding to the collection’s edginess. Reminiscent of pop art (and style maven) musician Lady Gaga, the series’ highfashion look pairs simple black body-skimming pieces with ivory ruffled stoles to match the hair.

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october 09 < salon

salon > october 09

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Collection: Fashion Forward 2009 Hair: Dimitrios Tsioumas, Hi-Lites Hair Salon, Fulton, Maryland Makeup: John Simpson Wardrobe: Laura Dimarcantonio Photos: Babak S

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october 09 < salon

Butterfly Kisses Chrystofer Benson talks about his latest masterpiece Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

Collection: Surrealist Butterflies Hair: Chrystofer Benson Salon Tantrum, Layton, Utah Makeup: Merrill Hollis Photos: Joseph Cartright

salon > october 09

he newest collection from Chrystofer Benson, Logics artistic director, educational director at Salon Tantrum in Layton, Utah, and 2009 Haircolor finalist for NAHA 20, embodies the stark, simple and colourful beauty of the butterfly. For Benson the inspiration began when he saw a picture of a butterfly next to a set of eyes with makeup resembling the creature. Taking this concept and applying it to hair, the colour techniques used mimic three different butterfly patterns and tones. Working with the careful placement of a spectrum of dramatic colours—cherry reds, white blondes, primary blues and greens and dark auburn hues—Benson says this collection was about “marrying the shape, tone and design of each butterfly into the haircut and colour.” Vivid and bold, just like butterflies’ wings, this collection evokes a definite sense of playfulness and adventure. S

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Classic Bohemian

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Davide Fattore talks about his C20 BC Hairstylist of the Year collection

B y D a v i d e Fa t t o r e a s t o l d t o A n u p a M i s t r y

am a romantic at heart and therefore a classical, romantic feel is always present in my work, whether it is on a model or a client in my salon. I named my collection Classic Bohemian, and, to me, a bohemian is someone who is unique and wants to stand out and be noticed. My collection is based on timeless shapes with extreme texturizingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;not thinned out, and with disconnectionsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;thus enabling the model to change the look from conventional to more avant garde. The bob is a perfect example; unlike a traditional bob, it was not cut with a zero graduation. It was all cut above the head, but because of the disconnections and the over directing, the final look is that of a bob. It looks completely different when it is not straightened. The colours used are also interesting because they appear solid but actually have several shades in each. Lisa Watrich, C20 Texture Hairstylist of the Year, works at my salon, and we used Babak for the shoot. When Babak got the chance to look at the wardrobe, we realized the clothing would not work. Fortunately, a friend of mine owns a boutique called Lady Divine and he let us take as many clothes as we needed. We walked out with 25 to 30 dresses that day. I feel the wardrobe complements the hair and makeup beautifully. S

Collection: Classic Bohemian Hair: Davide Fattore, La Dolcevita Day Spa, Kamloops, BC Makeup: Melodie Reynolds Photos: Babak

salon > october 09

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PROFILE

Colour Her Happy

Toronto-based stylist Adriana Balea tells the story of her rise to colourist superstardom By Melissa Brazier 68

salon > october 09

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PHOTO ADRIANA BALEA COURTESY PROBEAUTY ASSOCIATION

Hair: Adriana Balea, Francesca Salon and Spa, Toronto Makeup: Raquel Atienza Photos: Babak Contessa 20

rowing up in Cluj-Napoca, Romania, Adriana Balea found herself fixated by hair at a very young age. After attending several hair shows with a close family friend and seasoned stylist, she decided at the tender age of 14 to take the plunge and enroll in hairstyling at the Arts and Trades School, a local government school. After graduating, Balea spent the next 11 years working with her mother to turn the small family business, Salon Charm, into a 25-staff operation and a hairdressing school. Eventually Balea was ready for a new and exciting venture. So in 2001, she packed up her things, hopped on a plane and came over to Canada. Speaking little English, Balea got her first break when she landed the role of assistant to

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Johnny Cupello, acclaimed stylist and owner of Toronto Bloor West Village staple JC Salons. After six months, when Balea had become more comfortable working in English, she was given a chance to work the floor. Her roster quickly grew to about 17 clients per day, for whom she was strictly cutting and styling. “Cut, cut, cut. I got so bored,” says Balea. Gazing longingly at her co-workers who were doing colour, after five years Balea decided it was time to take matters into her own hands. She knew she was ready to take that next step in her career, so she entered and won Ontario Hairstylist of the Year and Makeover Colourist at the 2006 Contessa Awards. Being on stage at the gala accepting her awards ignited Balea’s deep passion for professional competition. That same year

she went on to enter and win a NAHA in the Haircolor category. With no time to rest on her laurels, in 2006 Balea obtained a stylist position at Toronto’s Francesca Salon and Spa, located in the upscale Forest Hill neighbourhood. When she expressed her desire to learn more about colour, her employer, Jimmy Karellas Dimitrios, promptly enrolled her in a master colour course with Wella Professionals. She was immediately hooked. “I like doing colour because every single client has a particular challenge. Once the clients are happy, it gives me a boost,” says Balea. Often teased by co-workers for her experimental nature, Balea says, “When I do colour I like to mix four or five shades together. I want to see what will turn out.” It is this flair for interesting colour combinations and new techniques that prompted Balea to enter a second Contessa collection in 2008, where she was a finalist for Makeover Colourist. Most recently she entered and won her second nod for the Haircolorist Award at this year’s NAHA 20. “I attended the NAHAs thinking I was just going there to see a show, not to win. When they said my name, it took me a few minutes to realize I had won. I was speechless and all I could say was, ‘Thank you very much.’” Balea’s humble nature is no indicator of her boldness when it comes to the colour in her collections. Her next goal is to take her creativity to the next level and enter the Avant Garde category for the Contessas. Stay tuned as this colour chameleon continues to take the Canadian hair scene by storm. S

october 09 < salon

nails

Special Effects Forging ahead to make nails as necessary an accessory as purses or shoes, CND is introducing its newest concept, Colour & Effects. Essentially a relaunch of the company’s fashion-forward polish line, the 50 new crème Colours and 15 Effects are designed to be layered for maximum customization possibilities. “Nail colour conformity is a thing of the past,” says CND co-founder and style director Jan Arnold. “Our new Colour line provides a mesmerizing combination of options for women to stylize their most natural fashion accessory, their nails.” The idea behind Colour & Effects is simple but clever: the full rotation of colours, from sheer neutrals and brights to chrome metallic, can be primed or topped with sheer hues in pearl, shimmer and sparkle finishes for a variety of looks. A deep ebony polish like Blackjack can glisten with a lavender finish if coated with the Amethyst Sparkle effect. Or it can reflect a variety mint hues if topped off with the Emerald Shimmer. Next application, your client may decide to wear Blackjack simply on its own. Options are boundless, limited only to a client’s likes and desires. And for the die-hard performance product junkies, the new CND Colour & Effect line boasts a quicker drying time and a new ergonomic bottle, designed to fit between the thumb and forefinger and topped with a rubberized no-slip cap. Clear, triangular bristles improve application and ensure even polish coats. Finally, the new line is 3-free, containing no toluene, formaldehyde and DBP.—AM

Finishing Touch

Give clients variety with the latest crop of topcoats and polishes

This season’s most fashion-forward finish is gloss-free matte. Orly’s autumn-appropriate shades like black Matte Vinyl and plummy Purple Velvet dry completely flat. If you want the power to customize, try a topcoat like Essie Matte About You Matte Finisher or CND Matte Top Coat to matteify a client’s favourite shade or add interesting touches like matte tips. For more luxe tips, lacquer them up with Suede by OPI. Available in

some of OPI’s most iconic shades, like deep blue Russian Navy and taupe You Don’t Know Jacques!, the ultra-lush polish can be worn alone or mixed with its traditional gloss counterpart for a mixed-texture finish. Help speed busy clients to their next appointment or quickly preserve their nails between manis with INM Out The Door Top Coat. Claiming a 45-second dry time and long-lasting shine, this topcoat can be used on any polish for a high-gloss finish.—AM • Suede by OPI; opi.com • CND Matte Top Coat; cnd.com • Orly Matte shades; orlybeauty.com • Essie Matte About You Matte Finisher; essie.com • INM Out The Door Top Coat; inmnails.com

salon > october 09

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photo Courtesy CND

CND relaunches its entire line for customizable benefits

nails

Naughty Minx

Luxe and celeb-sought nail appliqué now available in Canada By Anupa Mistry

W From the top: Lady Gaga sports Golden Lightning Minx while posing for her Poker Face album; Rihanna shows off Black with Chrome Polka Dot Minx; Katy Perry wears Silver Lightning Minx for her guest performance on American Idol.

salon > october 09

California-based Minx, Inc. A no-smudge, single-coat film requiring no drying time and ideal for use on natural nails, Minx is applied using heat. “Basically, you shrink-wrap it onto each nail and file the excess off,” says Laura Merzetti, the owner of Scratch My Back Nail Studio in Pickering, ON, who invested in Minx in the spring of this year. “I thought it was something interesting and different to offer women,” says Merzetti. “It started to take off in mid-June because of exposure on television and in magazines. I’m actually seeing it as a worthwhile investment.” Available in a variety of glam-to-cutesy finishes, Minx offers much more dramatic results than a regular manicure. “It’s very high drama: people will grab your client’s hand after they leave the salon and ask, ‘Where did you get that?’” Since Minx is gaining ground, Contessa-winning nail tech Jessica Ellison decided the fashion-forward technique would be perfect for Blobar, the north Toronto salon she manages. “It’s a unique service that not many salons in Ontario are offering right now,” explains Ellison, who brought Minx into Blobar in September. “It’s a manicure service that’s almost like an enhancement, in that it’s giving you chip-proof and wear-proof coverage.” Merzetti says that although clients can remove the film at home using heat from a hair dryer, they can be brought back in when nails start to grow for a new application. “It’s also awesome for toes,” she adds. “I’ve seen one client who had no chips on her toes after seven weeks, with nothing wrong other than the obvious grow-out.” For more information, visit minxcanada.com. S

top, Lady GaGa by Meeno, rest, KiMMie Kyees

hen fashion mavens Beyoncé and Rihanna rocked ultra-metallic nails over the summer, the beauty world took notice. What was creating this perfectly plated look, we asked? Turns out it was Minx, a professional-only product created by

salon52.ca

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esthetics

Medics Meets Esthetics

By Melissa Brazier

1. Get a thorough account of the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s medical history. Each client needs to be assessed on an individual basis. Someone who is using medication that causes light and skin sensitivities, for example, should not undergo light therapy or multiple facial treatments without consulting her physician first. A client who suffers from cold sores may have a more intense response to facial services and the esthetician will have to avoid, or take care around, the lip area.

salon > october 09

salon52.ca

PHOTOS JUPITERIMAGES

The how-tos of combining medical and traditional esthetic services

ith medispas popping up all over the place, giving clients the best of both medical cosmetics and traditional esthetic procedures has become the norm. However, estheticians have to tread carefully when merging various types of services, not only to reach optimal results, but also to avoid adverse reactions. Salon Magazine consulted Tara McGreevy-Dimitriou, head of faculty for Medical Aesthetics at the Salon and Spa Career College, Champlain Institute, and Lina Heath, president of EvelineCharles, to give you a guide to properly partnering medical and traditional esthetic services.

2. Be realistic about combining several treatments in one visit. Estheticians need to emphasize that any treatment program involving a combination of services requires long-term commitment and well-strategized scheduling. For example, a client wanting to do a series of injectables and light-based skin rejuvenating treatments needs to be aware that light therapy may spread the active ingredients in the injectables, making them less effective. The esthetician, should therefore recommend that the client wait anywhere from a few days to a couple of weeks after any injectable treatment before undergoing light-based services. The other option is to have the light treatment scheduled first and follow with the injectables afterwards. Cellulite services are another example. Clients doing advanced cellulite treatments— like VelaShape, for example—often want body wrap services as well. Here, it is important to not schedule the wrap and the cellulite treatment on the same day, since treatments like VelaShape emit a lot of heat and wrapping treatments trap

a lot of heat—a combination that may potentially cause irritation. However, if the client wants to have a massage before a cellulite treatment, it may actually help with lymphatic drainage, increasing the long-term effects of the second service.

3. Choose services that work in synergy. There are a few basic principles that estheticians should always adhere to when creating custom treatment packages for their clients. First, when doing any service involving lasers, be sure the skin is prepped properly. If a client is having a laser treatment after an esthetics service that involves the use lotions or oils, the esthetician should ensure that the skin is cleansed thoroughly and moisturizers removed. Added oils may cause the skin to heat up faster than usual, creating discomfort for the client and therefore compromising the intensity of the treatment. Next, when doing two consecutive services, estheticians should always adjust the second service according to the first. For instance, if a client is getting a pedicure right after a receiving a laser

hair removal service for the legs, estheticians and nail techs should avoid using rich lotions (even a heavy moisturizer can actively trap heat in the skin and cause inflammation) and slightly lower their water temperature. Instead, use a soothing, anti-inflammatory cream for massaging. Also, it’s important to not stimulate the area treated with lasers too much. Finally, recommend complementary service combos. Traditional facials done prior to advanced scarring services, for example, have been shown to promote quick healing in acne patients, so long as skin is thoroughly cleansed of all oils and moisturizers and not irritated.

4. Prescribe complementary at-home care. A client’s regime at home can affect the longevity of a service. After medical procedures, for example, the skin is very sensitive and may react to certain ingredients like vitamin A, fragrance, mineral oil, parabens and alcohol. The esthetician should go over proper at-home care with the client and call to follow up a few days later. S

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Holiday Treats Clients complaining about holiday line ups? Give them a way out with the latest holday promos.

colour chameleon

L’Oréal Professionnel’s holiday pack includes a Vitamino Color Shampoo and Conditioner and a free Texture Expert Infinium 4 mini finishing spray. Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca

style vixen

Matrix’s holiday pair includes Vavoom Shape Maker and Bodifying Shampoo. Plus a portion of the proceeds goes to the Children’s Wish Foundation. Info: matrix.com

Pureology offers a NanoWorks Shampoo and Conditioner and a complimentary RootLift mousse. Info: pureology.com

Redken’s colour care holiday set includes the Color Extend Shampoo and Conditioner and a complimentary purse hanger. Info: redken.ca

salon > october 09

L’Oréal Professionnel’s Texture Expert Thickening Primer and Smooth Essence come in a cute silver carrying case. Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca

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spa junkie

SpaRitual offers a luxury holiday trio (lotion, fragrant mist and massage oil) and a holiday polish duo (Epicurian Shimmer and Base & Topcoat In One). Both gift packs also come with a complimentary holiday ornament. Info: sparitual.com

dried-out diva Matrix Biolage Hydrathérapie duo includes an ultra moisturizing Shampoo and Conditioning Balm. Plus a portion of the proceeds goes to the Children’s Wish Foundation. Info: matrix.com

For soft-to-the-touch hair, Evolve’s Healthy Holiday Hair gift pack includes the Maintain Moisture Daily Shampoo and Control Anti-Frizz Balm. Info: 800.267.4676

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OPI’s Mini Merries features four sample-size polishes from the Holiday Wishes Selection, while the Juices For You ﬂavour gift pack is a selection of six AvoJuice Skin Quenchers Lotions. Info: opi.com

smooth seekers

Paul Mitchell’s Tea Tree holiday trio includes freshly scented Lavender Mint Moisturizing Body Butter, Body Wash and Sugar Scrub. Info: paulmitchell.com

Joico’s Whipped Vanilla Deluxe Spa Set features a soothing body cleanser and a rich body butter. Info: joico.com

for him Fixmen offers the Double Up conditioning shampoo and body wash in one, Piece Keeper ﬂexible texturizing paste and Smooth Operator shave cream, in a sleek, silver storage case. Info: 800.267.4676

L’Oréal Professionnel Homme’s holiday special comes with Sculpting Fibre Paste and High Foam Energizing Shampoo, all in a convenient travel case. Info: lorealprofessionnel.ca S

october 09 < salon

Joe Iannuzzi, former GM of Wella Canada, has retired

The Exit Strategy

By Tina Christopoulos The man who couldn’t imagine staying at a job for more than two years is now retired after seeing Wella Canada through several major changes—from becoming professional only and being twice purchased (once by a German-based company and later by P&G). We check in with this Canadian beauty champ as he hangs up his gloves.

What is the biggest change you have seen in the pro beauty business throughout the years? The industry is becoming very condensed, and now we see a number of companies going direct.

In your career, what are you most proud of? When I joined Wella, it was a small family-owned company that went on to become a major leader in hair colour. I was able to help develop the company in Canada and grow with it. I have been very fortunate to have been employed by a company like Wella. Being associated with the ABA was also a big help.

What are some of your best memories? I travelled the world with Wella,

salon > october 09

all over the US, South America, Italy, France and England. There are definitely some memories that stand out. For example, we were in Berlin when the Berlin Wall fell. Or during 9/11, we were stuck in Belgrade.

What will you do with your new-found free time? That’s a good question(laughs)! I’m still involved with the ABA, I’m the treasurer. I think I’ll stay implicated in the beauty industry to a certain extent.

What are you going to miss the most? I will miss all the wonderful people I got to work with every day, and the competitors I became friends with. This is a very personable industry, and we have developed a nice camaraderie.

How would your colleagues and competitors describe you? Someone with high integrity who lives by his word. I’m pretty straightforward. I have never promised anything to a distributor that I haven’t delivered. And I always expected the same in return. S

The Arithmetic

years in the industry

years at Wella

400+ ABA Shows

30+

trips to Germany

major corporate takeovers

lawsuits

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Far Out

INTERIORS

Take Three

A third location of On The Fringe Hair Design hits downtown Vancouver

salon52.ca

fter successfully opening and operating two salon locations over the past 11 years—one at the University of Victoria, followed by another at the University of BC—salon owner and Joico international artistic team member Shannon Simmonds decided it was time to venture off campus. Envisioning a more grown-up version of her two youth-driven salons, Simmonds set her sights on Vancouver’s Main Street, a prime location in the city’s downtown. t

PHOTOS GRADEN VAN ERKELENS

By Melissa Brazier

october 09 < salon

INTERIORS

“I wanted the salon off campus to be a bit more upscale but have the same friendly, positive environment as the other two locations.” Ensuring a welcoming environment thus became a key focus for Simmonds, who set up the rectangular 2,000 sq. ft. space to put the focus back on the client. The salon’s spacious waiting room is a prime example of this design strategy. Not only is it ample and comfortable, but also strategically situated out of view of the cutting stations. This way, if a stylist is running behind, he or she is not distracted or pressured by the presence of a waiting client. The stylist stays in the moment, focused on the client sitting at his or her chair. Inspired by a stylist station she saw at Joico’s Artistic Institute in Amsterdam, Simmonds also personally designed 7 ft. mirrors for each cutting station. “The large mirrors not only create a long and lean space, they also allow the client to become the main focal point,” she explains. The salon’s track lighting and large windows add to this effect, working together to cast a flattering light on the individual sitting at each chair. Next, Simmonds chose a simple colour palette—mostly white décor paired with subtle, fresh pops of green throughout—for the industrial-style space. “To create a balance in the salon, I wanted to combine industrial with organic and hard with soft,” she explains. The salon was also designed with professional education in mind. As a Joico concept salon, Simmonds’s latest location also features a 400 sq. ft. education centre where Joico classes are held. Simmonds also uses the multifunctional room as a workshop to experiment on mannequin heads and a place to set up photo shoots. “Education has always been very important to me. It’s one of the only ways you can get further ahead in this industry,” she says. Preferring to hire stylists right out of school, she wants this third location to be the first step in the training process. From there, as stylists become more advanced, they will be able to circulate from one location to another— what Simmonds calls a “stylist exchange.” S

salon > october 09

Name: Info:

Owner: Opened: Breakdown:

Retail: Management Software: Hours of operation:

On The Fringe Hair Design 4166 Main Street, Vancouver, BC; 604.569.0856; onthefringehairdesign.com Shannon Simmonds July 22, 2009 2000 sq. ft., six staff members and growing, eight cutting stations, four backwash sinks, one colour bar, office and education room. Joico, Fixmen and Evolve Insight Salon and Spa Software Tues. and Wed.: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Thurs. and Fri. 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sat. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. salon52.ca

CON TES SAS

SEMI-FINALIST LIST

T h e C a n a d i a n h a i r s T y l i s T o f T h e y e a r awa r d s CANAdIAN HAIrSTyLIST Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto Véronique Beaupré, Local B, Montreal Adriana Catenaccio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, ON John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Gianpaolo Colombo, HairAfter Salon & Spa, Toronto Carmen Commisso, Hair Xtacy, Burlington, ON Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Kozeta Izeti, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Pascal Saab, The Artists by Johnny Cupello, Newmarket, ON Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure, Montreal Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Jason Traicheff, Elegance Salon Spa, Whitby, ON Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville, ON Daniella Vaniglia, The Artists by Johnny Cupello, Newmarket, ON

CANAdIAN SALoN TEAM Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton GLAM Salon Boutique, Montreal HairAfter Salon & Spa, Toronto Hair Xtacy, Burlington, ON JC Salons, Toronto Käaz, Montreal Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, ON Local B, Montreal Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Salon Escape, Toronto Salon G&A, Toronto Salon Pure, Montreal Sound Salon and Spa, St. John’s NL Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Studio 237, Belleville, ON Suki’s, Vancouver Taz Hair Co., Toronto The Artists by Johnny Cupello, Newmarket, ON Timothy & Co. Salon, Courtice, ON

ELITE MASTEr HAIrSTyLIST Jeffrey Actenburg, Shampoo Planet, London, ON Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Michael Crispel, Earth: A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto

salon > october 09

Philip Ferreira, Ferreira Now Studio, Victoria, BC John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Kelly Hunter, Salon Venator, Winnipeg Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Salon & Spa Urbain, Montreal Stephane Legros, Salon Pure, Montreal Tony Masciangelo, The Alcorn Salon, Toronto Eve Parr, 53 Karat, Gatineau, QC Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton John Steinberg, John Steinberg & Associates, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon, Courtice, ON Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville, ON Jeffery Wood, T’Dye For, Windsor, ON

MASTEr CoLourIST Michelle Ateb, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co. Downtown, Edmonton Jessica Clark, Suki’s, Vancouver Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Rasa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon, North Vancouver, BC Rob Pizzuti, Exit Salon, Toronto Stacey Staley, Blonde Salon, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon, Courtice, ON Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

MAkEovEr CoLourIST Michelle Ateb, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Jessica Clark, Suki’s, Vancouver Lisa Coumbs, Once & Again Hair Design, Bobcaygeon, ON Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Kathleen Gravel, Coiffure Beauté Style-Moi, St-Gabriel, QC Susan Hayward, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Rasa Jurenas, Studio Rasa, Tillsonburg, ON Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon, North Vancouver, BC Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Krista Power, Sound SalonSpa, St. John’s, NL Tina Raso, NuImage Design Studio, Mount Pearl, NL Dayna Read, On The Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver Laurel Richards, Laurel Richards Inc., Ajax, ON Stacey Staley, Blonde Salon, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon, Courtice, ON Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville, ON Norm Wright, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

SESSIoN HAIrSTyLIST Cindy Bartlett, Village Hair Studio, Mississauga, ON Marty Boechler, Burke & Hair Inc., Vancouver Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Diane Dagher, Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Louis Hechter, Orbite, Montreal Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, BC Séverin Lebrun, freelance, Westmount, QC Rudy Pignataro, Salon G&A, Toronto Mark Santarossa, Ego Salon, Brampton, ON

TExTurE HAIrSTyLIST Véronique Beaupré, Local B, Montreal Adriana Catenaccio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, ON Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Kathleen Gravel, Coiffure Beauté Style-Moi, St-Gabriel, QC Astin Mak, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Cam Patey, Studio MW, Montreal Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Shane Snow, Salon Escape, Toronto Loriebelle Urrutia, Salon Escape, Toronto Rocky Vitelli, Mane Society Salon & Spa, Thornhill, ON

MEN’S HAIrSTyLIST Terrianne Clare, Licorice for Hair, Victoria, BC Donna Dolphy, Salon Daniel, Toronto John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Timothy Kuo, Markus J Hair & Wellbeing, Vancouver Jane Mcleod, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Jesse Minty, Essensuals London, Vancouver Rudy Pignataro, Salon G&A, Toronto Maly Pradichit, Käaz, Montreal Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

AvANT GArdE HAIrSTyLIST Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Sara Drolet, Salon Donald Prouxl, Montreal Ken Hung, Suki’s, Richmond, BC Mike Insalaco, Hot Heads Salon, Kitchener, ON Natalie Petcu, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Steve Rego, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, ON Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Jason Williams, Kharacter Style Et Couture, Montreal

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coNtessas seMi-FiNalist list T h e C a n a d i a n h a i r s T y l i s T o f T h e y e a r awa r d s Makeup artist Bonnie Bragg, NuImage Design Studio, Mount Pearl, NL Kelsey Dickson, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC Jennifer Dionne, freelance, Montreal Sabrina Ferri, Salon Verve, Maple, ON Jessica Gignac, Spyce Spa & Hair Studio, Barrie, ON Cherie Pia Grassa, Hairspray ’N Gloss, Woodbridge, ON Jon Hennessey, WOW Make-Up and Hair Bar, Vancouver Mishelle Madigan, W.A.C Hair Group, Markham, ON Maxime Poulin, Local B, Montreal Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure, Montreal

Multicultural Hairstylist Véronique Beaupré, Local B, Montreal Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny, QC Linsey Hooper, Supernova The Salon, North Vancouver, BC Darren Kwik, Darren Kwiki Studio, Toronto Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Siara Remtulla, Valentino’s Salon & Spa, Whitby, ON Stacey Staley, Blonde Salon, Toronto Loriebelle Urrutia, Salon Escape, Toronto

NewcoMer Hairstylist Amanda Di Carlo, Salon Inpure, Montreal Chad Francoeur, Suki’s, Vancouver Mavis Friesen, Fazes Hair Studio, Winnipeg Dayna Read, On The Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver Catherine Sort, Local B, Montreal Desiree Tan, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Melissa Ashley Taylor, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal Ana Luisa Valdes, Toni & Guy Vancouver, Vancouver Whitney Vallee, Salon Inpure, Montreal Barb Wells, Salon I.D., Barrie, ON

studeNt/appreNtice Hairstylist Melissa Bortoluzzi, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Menoukia Buscio, Hair FX Incorporated, Winnipeg Katrina Cavaliere, DeVog, London, ON Justine Fernandez, Timothy & Co. Salon, Courtice, ON Israel Garcia, Salon Daniel, Toronto Guy Lemieux, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Michelle E. McMartin, Michael’s Hair Body Mind, Mississauga, ON Francesca Rizzuto, Aveda Institute Toronto Daniella Scopazzi, W.A.C Hair Group, Markham, ON John Anthony Viviano, Marca College, Mississauga, ON

BritisH coluMBia Hairstylist Michelle Ateb, Milica SalonSpa, Langley Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Jon Paul Holt, Avantgarde Hair, Vancouver Linsey Hooper, Supernova the Salon, North Vancouver Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo Guy Labrecque, Suki’s, Vancouver Dana Lyseng, Supernova the Salon, North Vancouver Astin Mak, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

salon > october 09

Dayna Read, On The Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

Wendy Mercer-Young, Envy Hair Studio, Carbonear, NL Tina Raso, NuImage Design Studio, Mount Pearl, NL

alBerta Hairstylist

Nail eNHaNceMeNt artist

Danielle Barbey, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Andrea Barr, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Corin Berry, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co. Downtown, Edmonton John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Roberto Gaspar, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Veronica Lee, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Carole Lemire, EvelineCharles Salons-Spas, Edmonton Jen Li, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Mikka Trista, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton

Pamela Day, NuImage Design Studio, Mount Pearl, NL Jessica Marie Ellison, Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics, Toronto Krystle Haines, The Hair Spa, Conception Bay South, NL Jennifer Mather, Bäden Salon & Spa, Burlington, ON Hoai Nguyen, Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics, Toronto Robyn Schwartz , Polished & Pampered Hair and Esthetics, Grand Forks, BC Olga Spivak, freelance, Toronto Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, AB Tammy Upthegrove, It’s All About Me Esthetics, London, ON Melissa Dawn Zaran, Rumors Hair Studio, Regina

saskatcHewaN/MaNitoBa Hairstylist Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Danille Mandap, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Janelle Pinette, Hair FX Incorporated, Winnipeg Eva Rice, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Dawn Rowntree, Fazes Hair Studio, Winnipeg Shaun Salen, 4U Hair Make-Up Photography, Saskatoon Sherlyn Sampang, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Desiree Tan, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa, Winnipeg

oNtario Hairstylist Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto Jenny Bell, JC Salons, Toronto Adriana Catenaccio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge Gianpaolo Colombo, HairAfter Salon & Spa, Toronto Jenna Gerald, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby Kozeta Izeti, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Steve Rego, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton Pascal Saab, The Artists by Johnny Cupello, Newmarket Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville

QueBec Hairstylist Véronique Beaupré, Local B, Montreal Maude Brosseau, Le Loft, Boucherville Shantal Dupon, Le Lab Salon, Repentigny Marie-Josee Dupuis, Escompte Coiffre, Quebec City Kathleen Gravel, Coiffure Beauté Style-Moi, St-Gabriel Marie-Claude Lemay, Trionyx Coiffure Inc., McMasterville Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure, Montreal Sophie Taing, Continental Coiffure, Montreal Melissa Ashley Taylor, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain, Montreal

Nail art tecHNiciaN Pamela Day, NuImage Design Studio, Mount Pearl, NL Ashley Ann Mackenzie, Blo Bar, Toronto Laura Merzetti, Scratch My Back Nail Studio, Ajax, ON Hoai Nguyen, Yorkville School of Makeup and Esthetics, Toronto

saloN iNterior Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Framar Salon, Richmond Hill, ON Industria Coiffure Salon & Spa Place Repentigny, Repentigny, QC Industria Coiffure Salon & Spa Place Versailles, Montreal Local B, Montreal Oskar on Scollard Hair Studio, Toronto Salon I.D., Barrie, ON Salon Utopia MedSpa, Tecumseh, ON ur·ban·i·ty the hair salon, Halifax Valvano, St. Catharines, ON

coMMuNity serVice Daddario Hair Co., Toronto Edges Salon & Spa, Calgary Hair FX Incorporated, Winnipeg Q Hair Design, Edmonton Salon Escape, Toronto Salon G&A, Toronto Salon Pure, Montreal SG Hair Design, Milton, ON Yellow Orange Salon & Spa, Aurora, ON Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, BC Zennkai Salon, Surrey, BC

BusiNess excelleNce atlaNtic Hairstylist Marjorie Clarke, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, NL Timothy Day Howard, Sound SalonSpa, St. John’s, NL Alicia Langille, Concepts School of Cosmetology, Halifax Chrissy Marr, Kristy’s Salon, Halifax

Capucci Salon & Spa, Toronto Red Lemon Hair Salon, Georgetown, ON Zennkai Salon, Surrey, BC

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SCOOP

Due West

PhoTo CourTESy avEDa

Collega International has announced that the company has assumed distribution of Aveda in the Western regions of Canada, which were previously serviced by Alternative Wares. Collega’s expansion also means an additional 50 salon accounts established in Vancouver Island and Alaska and a new Experience Centre in Victoria.

Bringing it home Farouk Systems Inc. held a ribbon-cutting ceremony in conjunction with a job fair to mark the grand opening of a new CHI USA location in Houston on July 30. Governor Rick Perry and Mayor Bill White were present at the event to support bringing more jobs to Texas through the new facility, which is replacing locations in Asia and will be fully operational within a year’s time. The company has 1,277 jobs to fill and by the end of the day had received a total of 3,800 applications.

salon > october 09

Get Mobile

Celebrating its 20th year in business and the successful launch of Moroccanoil in Newfoundland, Professional Beauty Supplies also unveiled the Moroccanoil Mobile. Turning heads all over, this Moroccanoilthemed car is continuing the buzz of this line on the East Coast.

WOW-ZA! Beauty Connections in partnership with WhiteScience has introduced the latest teeth-whitening service for estheticians, called Whitening on Wheels (WOW), to Canadian salons and spas. After an educational seminar led by Ron Topper, VP and international sales manager of parent company WhiteScience, the WOW team in Canada grew from one to 10 people and officially started offering the service to clients in Aug. 09.

Take Over In the beginning of July, co-owner Jeremy Ottenbreit became sole owner of Salon Escape in Calgary. He now owns his original location, Salon Fli in Regina, and with the grand opening on Sept. 6, Salon Escape has officially become the second Salon Fli location. Although he is still in charge of education and artistic direction at the original Salon Fli, his sister, Teighen Ottenbreit, is managing the salon in his absence. His plan for the new Salon Fli is “to create a super fun atmosphere that’s available for all demographics.” salon52.ca

Paint the Town Green Schwarzkopf Professional’s marketing initiative, Essensity and the City (essensityandthecity.ca), has been launched for salon clients and their friends to sign up and have an Essensity experience at any of the five participating Toronto-based salons. Giving them an opportunity to test out the line’s star products, these events run every Monday until Oct. 26. For more info call 905.366.8887.

Giving Hope During Cosmoprof weekend, over 500 industry icons attended the black-tie, Spirit of life Masquerade Gala on July 21. In tribute to Cheryl and Jim Markham, founders of Pureology, the couple was awarded the City of Hope 2009 Spirit of Life Award for their yearlong fundraising efforts. The gala raised over $1.1 million for cancer research, treatment and education. “I am proud to announce that we exceeded our fundraising goal,” says Jim. “We will support City of Hope and its ovarian cancer program for the rest of our lives,” adds Cheryl. S

2009-2010 Buyer’s Guide additions Distributors ESP Salon Sales Brands/Products: Schwarzkopf, OPI, Supre, KMS, Sexy Hair, Grund Haircare, American Crew, ABBA, SST Cosmetics, Intercosmo

2 locations in Alberta - 5915 3rd St. SE, Calgary ph. 403-253-8556 fx. 403-253-8564 - 10616 170 Street NW, Edmonton ph. 780-481-6497, 800-667-2566 fx. 780-481-6060

2 locations in Saskatchewan - 210 44th St. E. Saskatoon ph. 306-975-0486 fx. 306-975-0371

ph. 204-774-6685 fx. 204-774-6802 Kenco Supply (1985 Ltd.) 1850 Northfield Rd, #8 Nanaimo, BC V9S 3B3 ph. 250-758-1809, 1-866-758-1809 fx. . 250-758-1353 Website: www.kencosupply.com Brands/Products: Hayashi, Dannyco Spa Products, Soma, Cuccio, Star Nail, Bioscal, Body Drench, GiGi, Poshe, INM Nail, Raquel Welch Clip-In Human Hair Extensions, Skeyndor, China Glaze, Zoya

Cortex Distribution Brands/Products: L’Oréal Professionnel, Dannyco, Gamma, Neo Extensions email: penglish@cortexdist.com Website: www.cortexdist.com

- 1428 Broad St., Regina ph. 306-525-9944, 800-667-2566 fx. 306-525-9897

4 locations in Quebec

ESP Salon Sales

- 7215 Trans-Canadienne, St. Laurent ph. 514-334-8015

1680 Ellice Ave. #5 Winnipeg, MB R3H 0Z2 salon52.ca

- 2437 Michelin, Laval (head office) ph. 450-686-9999, 877-686-9990

- 2001 Victoria, St. Lambert ph. 450-923-4692 - 225 La Gappe, Gatineau ph. 819-205-3590

Cortex Distribution Brands/Products: L’Oréal Professionnel, Dannyco, Gamma, Neo Extensions Email: penglish@cortexdist.com Website: www.cortexdist.com 1122 Finch W. #5, North York, ON M3J 3J5 ph. 416-650-0451

Mountain Beauty Supply 424 George St. N. Peterborough, ON K9H 3R5 ph. 705-745-6551 email: info@mountainbeautyesthetics.com Website: www.mbestheticscom Brands/Products: Dikson, Wella, Dannyco, Zotos/ Quantum, Wahl, Chi-Biosilk, Global, Nisim, Kalo, GiGi, Star-Nail-Cuccio

Manufacturers

Esthetics Plus

6004-82 Ave. Edmonton, AB T6B 0E7 ph. 780-466-5544, 888-422-6677 fx. 780-463-0324 Website: www.epbeauty.ca Brands/Products: LCN – nails, hand care, foot care, wax, permanent makeup, Image Skin Care, Crush Minerals, Betty, Tooth Fairy, Bubalina Bath and Body, tanning, equipment, furniture

Crisace Hair Extensions 3011 Markham Road, Unit 61 Toronto, ON M1X 1L7 ph. 416-293-8783 fx. 416-293-8786 Website: www.crisace.com Brands/Products: Crisace Hair Extensions, Products and Tools

october 09 < salon

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China Glaze Retro Diva pg 79 ..........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com CND Colour pg 21 ............................................800-833-NAIL ....................... www.cnd.com Contessa 21 pg 64-65 .......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Dikson Ta’al Color pg 35 ..................................800-334-8240 ........................ www.dikson.ca DWA pg 78 .........................................................800-663-9477 ........................ www.dwa.ca Essie Fall Collection pg 23...............................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com Esthetics Plus pg 83 .........................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.epbeauty.ca Eveline Charles pg 71 ...................................................................................... www.ecacademy.com First Lady Hot Styler pg 73 ..............................800-268-2242 ........................ www.firstladyproducts.com First Lady Marrakesh pg 25 .............................800-268-2242 ........................ www.firstladyproducts.com

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Gigi All Purpose Honee pg 99 ..........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.gigispa.com

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Goldwell The Colour Cycle pg 8-9 ...................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwell-northamerica.com

EXPIRY DATE

❏ Mr. ❏ Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________ Surname _______________________________________ Title ___________________________________________ Business Name____________________________________ Address ___________________________Suite _________ City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________

Goldwell Topchic pg 19 ....................................800-387-3873 ........................ www.goldwell-northamerica.com Great Lengths pg 10-11 ....................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.greatlengthscanada.com Hot Tools pg 63 .................................................800-487-8432 ........................ www.hottools.com IBD Beauty Dream Gels pg 41 .........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com Images International pg 92...............................866-942-4247 ........................ www.imageslasertek.com Intercosmetics RVB Rockstar pg 32 ................800-263-4333 ........................ www.intercosmetics.ca

Phone _________________________________________

Joico K-Pak Color Therapy pg 43-45...............800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com

Email__________________________________________

Joico K-Pak Color Therapy pg 100 ..................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com

Website ________________________________________

Kaaral sense pg 29 ..........................................877-950-4242 ........................ www.kaaral.com

❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se191

FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

Kenchii pg 47 ....................................................888-453-6244 ........................ www.kenchii.com La Biosthetique Trend Colors pg 37 ................800-661-1424 ........................ www.labiosthetique.com Lanvain pg 39 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN Colour Gel Carat pg 67.............................800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca Matrix Design Pulse pg 17 ...............................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com MC College pg 95 ..............................................888-314-7965 ........................ www.mccollege.ca Micro-Pigmentation Centre pg 93 ....................888-737-6268 ........................ www.micropigmentationcentre.com Milano Software pg 75 ......................................800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com OPI Pink of Hearts 2009 Edition pg 15 .............800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Pivot Point pg 94 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca Redken for Men Hard Wax pg 13 .....................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Schwarzkopf Club SKP pg 16 ..........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 6-7 .........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf Igora Royal pg 2-3 ......................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Sebastian Professionals pg 4-5 ........................800-267-1962 ........................ www.sebastianprofessional.com Star Nail Canada pg 87 .....................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Takara Belmont pg 85.......................................800-268-5351 ........................ www.takarabelmont.ca TBBS Kevin Murphy pg 58 ................................800-387-2962 ........................ www.tbbs.ca

MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0

TIGI Catwalk pg 31 ...........................................800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com

or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

TIGI Love, Peace and the Planet pg 27 ............800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com

salon > october 09

salon52.ca

EVENTS

Cosmoprof North America 09 Drawing in 625 exhibiting companies to a sold-out show floor, Cosmoprof North America was held in Mandalay Bay Hotel in Las Vegas from July 19 to 21. With representatives from CND, Tigi, Essie, OPI and Rusk, the event also welcomed leading beauty professionals like Robert Lobetta, Damien Carney, Sue Pemberton and Kevin Murphy.

Intercosmetics Makeup Seminar Gianluca Oddi, international makeup artist for Trend&Basic by RVB, in partnership with Intercosmetics hosted a two-day makeup seminar for clients on June 15 and 16. The techniques covered were glamour bride, natural bride, exotic and mature looks. Oddi also introduced clients to RVBâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new fall 09 makeup collection Rock Star. salon52.ca

october 09 < salon

EVENTS

Edges Salon and Spa Summer With Heart gala On June 26 owners Lina and Mike Chammoury and their team hosted over 300 people at a gala to kick off Redken’s nationwide ONEXONE fundraising initiative Summer With Heart. Throughout the summer, the salon went on to raise $10,000 through silent auctions, raffles and community events.

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salon > october 09

The 20th annual North American Hairstyling of the Year Awards was held in Las Vegas on July 20. Vivienne Mackinder received a lifetime achievement award, while Canadian stylists Richard St. Laurent and Adriana Balea also won North American Hairstylist of the Year and the Haircolor Award, respectively.

salon52.ca

PHOTOS COURTESY PBA

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Maurice Fiorio’s 60th birthday Toronto’s hair industry hit C Lounge on July 29 to surprise renowned stylist Maurice Fiorio with a 60th birthday party. The evening’s festivities featured speeches from Maurice’s colleagues from CityLine and long-time friend and GM of Colomer Canada Hugh Wilson and a model presentation put on by Fiorio’s team.

Pro Image Hair Academy HighHair competition Redken and Barrie's Pro Image Hair Academy hosted the first annual High-Hair competition on July 28. Challenging students to create the highest hair imaginable, the competition was held to benefit the Barrie Food Bank. First-place winners were Cara Scetto and Jennifer Keene. Coming in second was Ava Stofast and Brittany Grinyer.

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Calbrook Canada 1-866-522-5435 • www.calbrookcanada.com

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Visit our website: www.mccollege.ca Email resumes to: hr@mccollege.ca • Fax resumes to: 780-428-7733 october 09 < salon

EVENTS

oCtobEr/novEmbEr 2009 CaLgary aba October 4—5, 2009 Calgary Exhibition & Stampede Roundup Centre Calgary, AB; Info: abacanada.com intErnationaL EStHEtiCS CoSmEtiCS & SPa ConfErEnCE November 7—8, 2009 Broward County Convention Center Fort Lauderdale, FL; Info: iecsc.com iSPa ConfErEnCE & ExPo October 5—8, 2009 Location TBA, Austin, TX Info: experienceispa.com mid amEriCa bEauty CLaSSiC October 11—12, 2009 Greater Columbus Convention Center; Columbus, OH Info: premiereshows.com SaLon intErnationaL October 17—19, 2009 ExCeL Exhibition Centre London, England Info: salonexhibitions.co.uk HairaPaLooZa toronto October 18, 2009 Location TBA, Toronto, ON Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca faSHion frEnZy Hair ComPEtition, October 18, 2009 Sheraton Fallsview, Niagara Falls, ON Info: cosmoprofbeauty.com PrEmiErE birmingHam October 18—19, 2009 Birmingham Jefferson Convention Complex, Birmingham, AL Info: premiereshows.com 21St annuaL ContESSa awardS November 1, 2009 Sheraton Centre Hotel Toronto, ON Info: salon52.ca, 416.869.3131 ext. 108

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Hair CLaSSES avEda EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHi EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 888.251.8466 gLobaL bESt bEauty EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 goLdwELL EduCationaL ProgramS including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767 grEat LEngtHS EduCationaL ProgramS Info: greatlengthscanada.com

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KmS EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 877.670.6767 L’oréaL ProfESSionnEL EduCationaL ProgramS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 matrix EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 888.422.6879 rEdKEn EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor tigi EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 800.259.8596 urban bEauty SyStEmS Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available; Info: 866.731.4327

naiL and EStHEtiCS CLaSSES avEda EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 Cnd EduCationaL ProgramS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCn EduCationaL ProgramS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings Star naiL EduCationaL ProgramS Info: 800.661.9997

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 18 Issue 13 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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www.salon52.ca october 09 < salon

LAST WORD

n a trip to London last year, I found myself standing before an unforgettable 10 ft. high painting in the wonderful Tate Gallery. The royal majesty and magnificence of Henry VIII stood right above me, staring me down in full intimidating fashion. And when it came to fashion and his appearance, Henry, who reigned supreme from 1509 to 1547, was notoriously fastidious. He started out with a reputation as one of the handsomest men in Europe. Early in his reign, a Venetian ambassador described Henry as “the handsomest potentate I ever set eyes on, with an extremely fine calf to his leg… and a round face so very beautiful that it would become a pretty woman.” So, understandably, Henry’s penchant for his appearance knew no bounds—like his waistline in later years. He spent the modern-day equivalent of $4,360,000 a year on clothes. Yes, you read that right. These included robes made of gold and suits of armour. Henry spent a fortune hiring the finest European armourers, men with enough talent to disguise a paunch. Because—and let there be no doubt about this—Henry was a big man. His armour shows he stood 6 ft. 1 in. tall—almost half a foot taller than the average male of his day. A vigorous athlete and sportsman in his youth, with a 32 in. waist and a 39 in. chest, by his late 40s he measured 48 inches around the middle. His weight ballooned to almost 300 pounds, and by the time he died at 55, his waist measured 52 inches. Speaking of big, it was during Henry’s reign that the codpiece attained full prominence. For the uninitiated, a codpiece covered a man’s private parts, or in Henry’s case, we could say his crown jewels. The codpiece began life as a triangular piece of fabric covering the gap at the front between the two legs of a man’s hose. In Henry’s time, men followed his lead and wore exaggerated and even ornamented codpieces to advertise their virility.

salon > october 09

Subtlety was not the issue here. When it came to his grooming, Henry, like all upper-class men of that time, had his eyebrows plucked. From the early 1520s on, he wore his red hair short and his red beard short and full. Consequently, all men of any standing also wore short hair and well-shaped, full beards. This served Henry well when he started taxing beards in 1535. After all, he had an expensive lifestyle to maintain. Given Henry’s intense interest in appearances, it’s not surprising that he got involved with the status of barbers. The barbers of earlier times were called barber surgeons. As well as haircutting, hairdressing and shaving, barbers performed wound surgery, bloodletting, cupping, leeching, enemas and tooth pulling. By the 15th century, English barbers and surgeons had separate guilds, but their job descriptions were still blurred. In 1540, Henry combined the two as the United Barber-Surgeons Company. Under this new law, surgeons could no longer shave beards or cut hair, and barbers couldn’t do surgery—just dentistry and bloodletting. Henry also decreed that barbers must receive the bodies of four criminals a year to practise dissection. So if you ever think that 1,500 to 2,000 hours of training to qualify as a hairdresser today is extreme, just thank your lucky stars you weren’t in the hair business during Henry’s day. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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