Salon Magazine, September 2009 by Salon Communications Inc.

l salon magazine

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the business of beauty and style

trends

fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best

new collections plus the latest from the runway! september 09 $5 salon52.ca

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imagine... care: fade-fighting power, done delicately protection: with açaí berry + argan oil experience: rich lather, sulfate-free feel: silicone-free conditioners Featuring our first EcoCert certified organic triple-blend oil!

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STYLING

•

ENTS

ENCES

C INGR

AN IC

CARE

•

PU YNT T RES

COLOUR

•

ESSENSITY

NTA I N COE DUCED S

F O R M O R E I N F O O N E S S E N S I T Y C O N TAC T 1- 8 0 0 - 4 6 3 - 3 0 81 O R V I S I T S C H WA R Z KO P F - P R O F E S S I O N A L .C A

CHECK OUT THE NEXT ISSUE OF SALON MAGAZINE FOR THE WINNER OF ESSENSITY’S

INSPIRED BYN AT U R E CONTEST We challenged hairdressers across the country to create a hairstyle inspired by nature, with ESSENSITY, the first line of ammonia and fragrance free hair colour and styling products with more than 90% naturally derived ingredients and 100% performance. The submissions were fantastically imaginative and THE WINNER WILL BE ANNOUNCED IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF SALON MAGAZINE, HOPEFULLY THEY WILL INSPIRE YOU TO TAKE THE FIRST STEP TO BECOMING A GREENER HAIRDRESSER OR SALON OWNER, BY PROVIDING YOUR CLIENTS WITH THE NATURAL ALTERNATIVE THEY ARE INCREASINGLY LOOKING FOR.

IN PA R TNERS HIP WITH

GREEN TIP: USE WASHABLE TOWELS, COVERS, SHEETS, ROBES, AND OTHER ITEMS INSTEAD OF THEIR DISPOSABLE COUNTERPARTS WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WASH THEM USING NON-TOXIC DETERGENT THAT WORKS IN COLD WATER .

ÂŠ 2009 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962

NEW COLOR TOUCH® LIGHT DANCING WITH COLOR LIGHT UP YOUR WORLD WITH COLOR THAT SHINES. • Up to 57% more multidimensional color* • Up to 63% more shine* • Gentle ammonia-free formula HAIRCOLOR: A TOUCH OF VIBRANCY SERVICE featuring new Color Touch® shades 66/45, 8/43 and 7/43. To learn about this and other Color Touch® services, call 1-800-267-1962 and ask about COLOR MOVEMENT. * compared with untreated hair

COMING THIS FALL

NEW JOICO.COM

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s $/5",%3 the life of haircolor’s vibrancy s 2%0!)23 and 342%.'4(%.3 weak and damaged hair s 2%$5#%3 breakage by 65% after just one use s Instantly ).#2%!3%3 shine by nearly 50%

&EATURING BREAKTHROUGH 1UADRA OND 0EPTIDE #OMPLEX™ This technologically advanced blend of peptides, arginine, dual-polymers, and African Manketti Oil restores, protects, and delivers maximum reconstruction to color-treated hair.

Only from Joico, the Experts in Healthy Hair.

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For the salon professional, offering Great Lengths® Hair Extension Services presents endless possibilities — not only an outlet for your creativity and talent, but a highly profitable service that has remained stable even in difficult economic times. As a certified Great Lengths® Extension Artist, you will be able to utilize your skills to make her dreams come true.

the professional choice Great Lengths® is recognized the world over for having the most comprehensive and complete educational programs the industry has to offer. The continuing success of the Original 3200 Thermal Method Program attests to the ongoing acceptance and growth of Great Lengths® services. Great Lengths® Canada invites all salon professionals to contact us about your future potential as a Great Lengths® extension artist.

Call 800.461.9302 or visit greatlengthscanada.com for certification opportunities nearest you

UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS® EDUCATION SEMINARS TORONTO MONTREAL

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HALIFAX

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October 25–26

VANCOUVER

October 25–26

*In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths® Certified Salon Network today by calling Great Lengths® Canada at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@greatlengthscanada.com.

skP’s Essential looks 111th Edition: Part ii

sEPtEMBER.09 The look at Toronto Fashion Week, fall/winter 2009-10

BAckstAgE confiDEntiAl

The behind-the-scenes mayhem at the New York, Milan and London Fashion Week shows . Plus, fall's latest nail trends.

BEHinD-tHE-scEnEs of cAnADA’s nEXt toP MoDEl

Third cycle of reality show lands potential models in Holts Salon & Spa

salon > september 09

magazine

the business of beauty and style

fEAtuREs 50 tHE nEXt gEnERAtion

Matrix’s new line of ultra cool stylers caters to

a younger clientele

collEctions Looks from Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks, Vivienne Mackinder, Damien Carney and Edwin Johnston

66 71

HAiR HERo John Steinberg on 50 years of hairstyling

HAPPy 100th! L'Oréal Professionnel celebrates its centennial anniversary by looking forward

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

33 sPEciAl fAsHion sEction 34 MADE in cAnADA

l salon

trends

fall’s best

new collections plus the latest from the runway! september 09 $5 salon52.ca

se.s09.cover.3-0.indd 1

8/4/09 12:46:43 PM

Hair: Vivienne Mackinder for Pure Extensions Hair extensions application: Josif Wittnik Assistant: Rebecca D’Este Makeup: David Maderich Wardrobe: David Widjaja Photos: Babak

salon52.ca

Give your clients the freedom of style, self-expression, and the right to create without limits. Our exclusive KMS California products help you create individual looks… glamorous, hip, casual, whatever the mood. Our California heritage drives our passion for the latest technology and native natural ingredients… the ideal foundation for individual styling versatility. For Sales Consultant support, call toll free: 1-877-670-6767 for service in English.

Visit our website to find out more about all 3 looks | www.kmscalifornia.com

ONE CUT VERSATILE STYLES

SHELF LIFE Six pink products that give back

REGULARS 16 EDITOR’S LETTER 18 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 20 SALON52.CA This month on salon52.ca

HAIRLINES Pure Extensions partners with Vivienne Mackinder to develop an online education system p.22; 20th Annual NAHAs p.24; Contessa ticket time p.24; LP extends AIDS walk initiative p.24; The latest spokesmodel of Sebastian Professional Micky Green p.26; The new face of Joico is Olympic contender Joannie Rochette p. 26; Matrix Biolage goes eco p.27; Tigi launches Diamond Dreams p.27; three new Hot Styler irons p.27; how to offer your clients the total package p.28; Shelf Life gives six pink products for breast cancer awareness month p.30

Matrix: The Next Generation

Beauty Buzz : The latest launches in esthetics

PROFILE Celeb stylist Ted Gibson tells the story of going from small-town Texas to your television

34 Made in Canada:

COLOUR Quick tips on taking your clients into fall, plus the latest launches that will get you there

Toronto Fashion Week

MEN American Crew celebrates 15 years in the male grooming biz

49 64

ESTHETICS The newest ways to care for your skin, from lip to lid and everything in between

CONTESSA GALLERY Melanie Whitmore talks about her C20 Makeup Artist of the Year collection

salon > september 09

INTERIORS Montreal’s Femme Coiffure Hair Spa introduces the concept of boutique salons

SCOOP

EVENTS Coverage of Vancouver Hairapalooza, ABA AGM, Amore show, Fashion on Fire and more

LAST WORD by John Steinberg salon52.ca

For your nearest LA BIOSTHETIQUE distributor call Key Beauty Systems toll-free (877) 561-2742

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INGREDIENTS OF NATURAL ORIGIN FREE FROM SILICONES AND PARABENS FREE FROM SYNTHETIC COLOURINGS AND PERFUMES FREE FROM MINERAL OILS EXCLUSIVE PROFESSIONAL QUALITY * According to ECOCERT criteria. All LA BIOSTHETIQUE NATURAL COSMETIC products bear the quality seal of ECOCERT, an internationally recognized, independent institute for testing and certification of natural cosmetics.

www.labiosthetique.com

EDITOR’S LETTER

SALON LOYALTY PROGRAM

Are YOU collecting points? Enroll online and receive a free gift. promo code > salon magazine

salon merchandise salon tools salon accessories salon education Visit www.clubSKP.com or ask your Sales Consultant or Technical Advisor for details.

Together. A passion for hair 16

salon > september 09

PHOTO BABAK

www.clubskp.com 1.800.463.3081

Fall Staple

ven though Coco Rocha’s brief stint as a redhead last spring may not have lasted very long, it made quite the impact. Her makeover created some serious buzz and got lots of people talking about the Canadian-born fashion muse. It seems that somehow red always makes a statement—whether it’s a grandiose brunette-to-red transformation or something as simple as a classic crimson manicure. So it’s no wonder that once again this season, red is on the radar. Starting with our coverage of the trends at Toronto Fashion Week in Made in Canada (page 34), where we see everything from pumpkin-haired models to poppy-coloured sweaters, the influence of this energy-inducing pigment becomes very apparent. Schwarzkopf Professional’s latest Essential Looks collection also puts an emphasis on the ravishing redhead (page 52), as does Vivienne Mackinder’s Made in Canada, new collection, Retro page 34 Spectrum (page 56). For Canada’s Edwin Johnston, the influence of red is seen in the stunning, floral-pattern backdrop of his latest collection, Weekend Teese (page 62). The energy of red will also certainly be felt at our upcoming Contessa show. To go along with our new category Master Colourist, the theme this year is colour and we’re gearing up for a spectacular show. Check out the lineup on page 24 and be sure to stay tuned to salon52.ca for the semifinalist list early next month. As always, I’d love to hear what you think of the Historic Glamour, page 52 issue. Write me at morella@beautynet.com.

Morella Aguirre Editor-in-Chief

salon52.ca

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 18 issue 11

s a lo n 5 2 . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com AssociAtE Art dirEctor

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com AssistAnt Editor

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com EditoriAl AssistAnt

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com copy Editor

Michaela Cornell sEnior stAff writEr

Irreplaceable Icons

EditoriAl intErn

Pam Fulford

Malorie Gilbert

contributors

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras publishEr/prEsidEnt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samantha@beautynet.com

ooking back over the summer, one of my highlights was a trip to Paris—a five-day spectacle to celebrate L’Oréal’s 100th anniversary. One of the major events was a big hair show at the Zenith featuring the Alexandre de Paris team, Angelo Seminara and Aldo Coppola. It truly was an extraordinary show. Jason Levi of David Levi Hair Salon in Victoria, BC, put it perfectly when he stated, “I’ve waited all my life to see a show like this.” Although I cannot remember the first time I heard the name Alexandre de Paris, I do recall being a young hairstylist in the early 80s and seeing him present several times at the first really big hair show I ever attended. I knew I was witnessing something more than special and I have never forgotten that show. Although M. de Paris passed away recently, he has become an industry icon and continues to influence hairstylists around the world. It’s wonderful to see his right-hand man Jean-Luc Minetti and team carry on the legacy. Another beauty icon we said good-bye to this summer was Farrah Fawcett. I was a teenager when Farrah burst onto the pages of magazines and television screens with her beautiful mane of hair and radiant natural beauty. She influenced more women and hairstylists than any one person I can recall. Her look had unbelievable mass appeal. From selling perms and round brushes to the advent of foil highlights, her iconic status drove women into salons like never before. Icons are important to us, particularly in our industry. By simply saying one name it depicts a clear image, symbol and inspiration. If you look up the word “icon” on Wikipedia, the meaning is most often tied to religion, mentioning miracles and works of art. This makes me smile. Maybe Allen Edwards was a miracle worker when he came up with Farrah’s ’do. Or was it divine intervention? I think I’ll check upstairs.

sAlEs AssociAtE

Lindsay Newton > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | lindsay@beautynet.com production MAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com AssistAnt to thE publishEr

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com circulAtion MAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca AccountAnt

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com businEss AdMinistrAtor

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@beautynet.com chAirMAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vicE-prEsidEnt & wEst coAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50USd A ddrE ss ch A n gE s Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services Po Box 357, Beeton oN, l0G 1a0 Canada

sA l on MAg AZ in E

365 Bloor St. e. Suite 1902 toronto, oN M4w 3l4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada ltd.)

return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

salon > september 09

Hair Bill rowley PHoto BaBaK

national Magazine Awards

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Phone: 905.729.1288

Gold

Silver

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

Top Five

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recy

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C a N a d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

salon52.ca

OPI FALL/WINTER 2009 COLOR CHART

EDITION C (OPI ITEM NO. DC E03)

EDITION A (OPI ITEM NO. DC E01)

EDITION COF (OPI ITEM NO. DC E08) Nail Lacquers shown, top to bottom: Here Today…Aragon Tomorrow, Suzi Skis in the Pyrenees, Give Me Moor!, Pamplona Purple, Ate Berries in the Canaries, Pink Flamenco, Conquistadorable Color, Bullish on OPI, Barefoot in Barcelona, Can You Tapas This?, Manicurist of Seville, No Spain No Gain Nail Lacquers feature OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush.

salon52.ca what’s on

september 09

PHOTO COURTESY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, ESSENTIAL LOOKS

collections > news+events > contessas > features > videos > blog > contests + more

collections

straight to your inbox!

> SCHWARZKOPF - Essential Looks, 1 11th E di ti on: Part II

See the latest collections, ﬁnd out about our newest contests and giveaways, and keep up with beauty news by signing up for our FREE weekly e-newsletter! Go to salon52.ca/subscribe and sign up today.

> VIVIENNE MACKINDER - R etro Spectrum > DAMIEN CARNEY - Madames 09 > EDWIN JOHNSTON - Weekend Teese > VIDAL SASSOON - Le B asier

s52 blog

s52 videos

Check out the salon52 blog, featuring guest bloggers Fabio Sementilli and Babak, for hair gossip, celebrity style, photos and the lowdown on salon politics. This year, John Steinberg is celebrating 50 years in the industry. We asked past and present assistants to give us, and you, a glimpse of John over the years.

salon > september 09

s52 giveaways Fall is all about texture and big hair, so experiment with this tool trio from First Lady. Go to salon52.ca/giveaways to enter and you could win a stying iron a styling iron prize pack, which includes the Trio, Root Volumizing Iron and Volumizing Styling Iron all by Hot Styler.

salon52.ca

hairlines

news

Eco Extension Pure Extensions partners with Vivienne Mackinder to develop an online education system

nown as the eco-chic hair extensions system, Pure Extensions has broken the mould once again with its webbased online education system. Partnering with the first lady of hair Vivienne Mackinder, founder and host of hairdesignertv.com, Pure Extensions shot its webinar style program in tandem with a high fashion photo shoot featuring voluminous manes and tons of touchable texture. Filming a breakdown of the techniques used for each look during model prep time, the photo shoot not only served as the basis for Pure’s educational webinar, it also produced some spectacular imagery, including the photo shown here and on our cover page. For more info visit pureextensions.com or head to hairdesignertv.com for the complete online lesson.

Collection: Pure Mackinder Hair: Vivienne Mackinder for Pure Extensions Hair extension application: Josif Wittnik Assistant: Rebecca D’Este Makeup: David Maderich Wardrobe: David Widjaja Photo: Babak 22

salon > september 09

www • To view the full range of photos go to salon52.ca. salon52.ca

C’est La Vie Mon Chéri 272 271

Ooh La La 273

Déjà-Vu 274

Fall in love with “Je t’aime” the Fall Colour Collection from LCN. Available in Matching Colour Gels, Rhinestones and Nail Polishes.

1.800.557.3223 BC AB SK MB

LCN.ca

1.888.859.3434 CENTRAL & EAST

hairlines

news

Canada’s premier pro beauty gala, the Contessas—the Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards, is taking place on Nov. 1 at Toronto’s Sheraton Centre. This year’s event promises to be bigger and better than ever, with a new colour category, Master Colourist, and show segments by Joico, featuring Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton, Matrix, led by Montreal’s colour chameleon Roch Lemay, and Schwarzkopf Professional. Tickets go on sale Sept. 8. Early bird special ends Oct. 8. Call 416.869.3131 ext 108 or go to salon52.ca to get your tickets today.

naha photos courtesy probeauty association

Contessa tickets on sale!

L-R: St. Laurent and Mackinder at NAHA 20

Winner’s Circle Montreal’s Salon Inpure won major honours at this year’s 20th annual North American Hairstylist of the Year Awards. Not only did the salon bring home the hardware for NAHA 20 Salon Team of the Year, one of its top stylists, Richard St. Laurent, also won the coveted title of North American Hairstylist of the Year. NAHA also honoured industry leader Vivienne Mackinder with a Lifetime Achievement Award. Dedicating the accolade to her parents, Mackinder held back tears during her brief and heartfelt speech at the NAHA ceremony in Las Vegas.

Join In! L’Oréal Professionnel hosts AIDS walks from coast to coast L’oréal professionnel will be extending the reach of its third annual Ça Marche aiDs Walk in Montreal by hosting scotiabank aiDs WalkforLife events in halifax, ottawa, toronto, calgary and Vancouver. in support of the canadian aiDs society and the Fondation Farha, this nation-wide initiative is part of Lp’s hairdressers against aiDs program in canada and will be happening across the country throughout the month of september. to get involved or sponsor a participant in the aiDs WalkforLife, visit aidswalkforlife.com, or for Montreal’s Ça Marche aiDs Walk check out camarche.ca.

salon > september 09

salon52.ca

HAIRLINES

news

Green Envy Micky Green, the new face of Sebastian, straddles the line between angelic and androgynous

PHOTOS COURTESY SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

Ethereal seems to come effortlessly to rising star Micky Green. An Australian ex-pat living in Paris, Green is a musician and the latest Sebastian Professional spokesmodel whose style is a cross between laid-back folksy and hipster cool. Her white blond hair is cut in an androgynous midlength shag, which gives her the ability to transform from downtown scenester to retro siren, while still remaining unwaveringly feminine thanks to its angelic hue and texture.

Figure Head

Champion ﬁgure skater Joannie Rochette, a gold medal hopeful for the 2010 Vancouver Olympics, is the new face of Joico and K-Pak. Skating since she was two, the 23-year-old Quebec native has captured some major titles including ﬁve straight wins at the Canadian Ladies Championships and a silver medal at the 2009 World Championships. In support of Rochette’s bid for gold at Vancouver 2010, Joico has developed K-Pak’s Go For Gold Sweepstakes in which participating salons can win two tickets to the 2009 Contessa Awards in Toronto this November (including airfare and accomodation). Contact your local Joico sales person or call toll free 800.267.4676 for more info. 26

salon > september 09

PHOTO COURTESY JOICO

Joico inks deal to sponsor Olympic contender Joannie Rochette

salon52.ca

tool of the month

Take Care Matrix Biolage is breaking into the green market with a new line of eco-certified products for the environmentally conscious. The Colorcarethérapie Delicate Care products are all sulfate-, paraben- and silicon-free and formulated from organic, fair-trade ingredients. The shampoo and conditioner, masque and oil treatment all feature the patented Eco-Select complex, a formulation including a very mild cleansing surfactant, the antioxidant power of the acai berry and the moisturizing effects of Argan oil to ensure hair is left smooth, soft and shiny. And, with delicious notes of citrus floral, musk and neroli, it’s a pleasure for the sniffer too.

Dearest Dad

Name Hot Styler Trio website firstladyproducts.com

Features: • Multi-functional—curling iron, wand and straightening iron in one • Four tourmaline ceramic plates provide even heat distribution • Reaches maximum temperature of 210˚ in less than 30 seconds • Cool rubber grip tips for safe and easy curling

A Dream Come True Tigi extends the S-Factor family to include three new additions

Tigi is going ultra-luxe with the newest S-Factor products titled Diamond Dreams. This shampoo and conditioner duo is infused with diamond powder, pearl and wine extracts and hydrolyzed wool (a.k.a. cashmere). The benefits? Hair is left hydrated, with less frizz and more softness and shine. For clients with super dry locks the line also comes equipped with the at-home Balance Booster treatment, a-oncea-week treatment that leaves even the most damaged hair healthy and soft to the touch.

salon52.ca

Name Hot Styler Volumizing Styling Iron & Root Volumizing Iron website firstladyproducts.com

Features: Titanium ridged plates finely crimp hair replacing back combing and providing even results • Adjustable temperature control setting from 60 to 210˚ • Sleek plates and design mean irons can be used close to the scalp increasing volume and lift

wiN it! enter for a chance to win all three irons at salon52.ca. Giveaway runs sept. 4 to 18, 2009.

september 09 < salon

hairlines

business

The Total Package The owners of Salon Utopia dish tips on bettering your service menu By Melissa Brazier

What’s the secret? The three sisters of Salon Utopia share their top five tips for running a successful all-in-one beauty haven.

1. Network Get out there and create solid relationships with anyone you interact with. You never know with whom you will be collaborating in the future.

Do your homework Education allows you to be a leader in the industry.

Embrace change Research and be open to the latest technologies. See if a new service will work for your business.

Turn a visit into an experience Create an atmosphere that works with the services you offer.

lients of the beauty business are always looking for the best service possible, whether it’s as simple as a pleasant smile or the handiness of a one-stop shop. To stay competitive in this industry, the latest generation of salons is taking service to the next level with the saloncum-medspa. On the cutting edge of this new trend, Windsor, ON’s Salon Utopia, run by three vivacious sisters, is a medspa meets salon that offers everything a client could want—from valet carwash upon arrival and haircut and colour to micro-dermabrasion and dermal fillers. Michelle Cannon, co-owner and lead stylist, says, “Our industry is rapidly growing and it’s important to stand out. People are busy and convenience is important. Providing them with high caliber services available in one place is more efficient for them.” Justine Joseph, also a co-owner and stylist, adds, “Clients are looking for more than just a cool hairstyle. We provide our clients with an experience, not just a service. That’s what keeps them coming back.” Growing from a small team of seven to a staff of 22, the key to this power of three’s

salon > september 09

success is not only providing top-notch services, but also creating a welcoming atmosphere. Co-owner and general manager Carolyn Fowler says it’s all about finding the right people, “You have to love what you do. People can tell when you’re faking it. We simply don’t settle for mediocre staff.” What also makes Salon Utopia unique is that it’s part of a larger 60, 000 sq. ft. plaza called Lakeshore Oasis, where all the businesses work together to refer clients back and forth. The salon’s signature makeover, for example, could include the optometrist, the clothing store, dentist, the fitness club and so on. Plus, the salon provides free wireless internet and they offer in-hospital client visits, chemotherapy transitional care, private wedding room, in-house beauty and wellness educational programs, blue light acne treatment, glycolic peels, skin tightening, et cetera. Cannon says, “We are not only working on generating new clients with our diverse services, but also feel the medspa services allow us to generate more income from existing clients. It keeps our clients in the salon, reinforcing our client loyalty.” S

Photo Jon Gillies

Partner with a manufacturer Pairing up with a company keeps you privy to what’s new and interesting and gives you access to the latest products and services.

salon52.ca

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Retro Diva China Glaze庐 Nail Care Cosmetics contain China Clay as a nail hardener. Free of DBP, Toluene and added Formaldehyde.

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Far Out

hairlines

shelf life

Six pink products that give back

straigHten out CHI introduces three limited edition tools—a flatiron, mini-iron and blowdryer—all marked with the pink ribbon symbol to show that proceeds go to support breast cancer research. Info: farouk.com

3 30

Blown away During the next two months Solano will be offering the limited edition Power to Prevent dryer. Not only is it a high performance tool, but the company will also be donating a portion of the proceeds to Living Beyond Breast Cancer. Info: solanopower.com

soft sPot As part of KMS California’s Think Pink initiative in support of the Young Survival Coalition, clients can purchase a shampoo and leave-in conditioner from the Silksheen line and receive a complimentary pink detangling comb. Info: kmscalifornia.com

salon > september 09

Proud PolisH To raise awareness and funds for breast cancer, 10 per cent of the proceeds from Essie’s limited edition colour Yes We Can, Pink! will go to Living Beyond Breast Cancer. Info: essie.com

Pedi in Pink OPI has released their Pink of Hearts nail lacquer for 09 to benefit Rethink Breast Cancer. A light pink polish, it’s just right for a subtle yet feminine pedicure. Info: opi.com S

www • For more pink-inspired products check out salon52.ca

salon52.ca

Photo Chris tsintziras text Melissa Brazier

Healing Hands Aveda will donate $4 from the sale of each limited edition Hand Relief cream sold in October to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Plus, clients will have the smoothest, softest skin ever. Info: aveda.com

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The Runway Report

PHOTO jOn gurinsky

The return of red, the updated chignon and a frenzy of textures are all among this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top runway stories. With the help of an elite batch of trend makers, we break down the latest in hair, makeup, nails and fashion.

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september 09 < salon

JOE FRESH

made in PINK TARTAN

JOEFFER CAOC

DAVID DIXON

By Morella Aguirre Runway photos by Ashley Satchell

The Red Army

This season, red is the statement colour of choice for many Canadian design houses. At the Toronto shows, David Dixon’s scarlet cocktail dresses and Joe Fresh’s poppy accents weren’t enough to satisfy the craving, as designers called upon a steady stream of fiery-haired models to add an extra hit of this standout hue. Keep your chemically enhanced redheads looking intense with Joico’s latest in colour care, the K-Pak Color Therapy shampoo, conditioner and Restorative Styling Oil. Info: joico.com

salon > september 09

Get a full range of glittering reds with China Glaze’s newest collection Retro Diva. Info: chinaglaze.com

salon52.ca

Andy Thê-Anh

Canada

EvAn BIddEll

PInk TArTAn

Andy Thê-Anh

The look at Toronto Fashion Week fall/winter 2009-10

Get the hold you need to create any gravity-defying style with Tigi Rockaholic’s new Way Out Super Hair Glue. Fashion groupies on-the-go will also love the portable All Access Go Anywhere Shampoo Bar. Info: tigihaircare.com

The 80s-referencing looks seen in Evan Biddell’s zipperhappy ensembles, Andy Thê-Anh’s sweetheart necklines and Pink Tartan’s fuchsia bubble skirts were a mix of retro, street and sophistication. In terms of hair, the Toronto Fashion Week beauty team paired the retroinspired fashion with tall, commanding and sleek updos.

Bright bursts of neon pigment are still on the trend charts. Mix up your palette with Essie’s new Fall Color Collection. Info: essie.com salon52.ca

Retro 80s

www

• Learn more about these products at salon52.ca

september 09 < salon

comrags comrags

comrags

lucian matis

bustle

Texture and Textile

the stylish mishmash of frizz, fuzz and velvety fabrics seen at the lucian matis and comrags shows were all about voluminous shape, curl and texture. at bustle, texturized men’s cuts were paired with sharply tailored sportswear and colourful plaids and patterns. in other words, the trend towards curls, waves and tousled cuts lives strong this fall/winter season. S

OPI’s new matte finish lacquers offer a sexy surface quality and create a new feel and texture for nails. Info: opi.com

Create a sink-side oasis for curly clients with Sebastian Professional’s in-salon Texture Tandem replenishing treatments. Info: sebastianprofessional.com

salon > september 09

Give your guys flexible style with Woody’s Big Stick Style Stick featuring natural beeswax. Info: woodysgrooming.com S

www • Learn more about these products at salon52.ca

salon52.ca

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Backstage Confidential The behind-the-scenes mayhem at the New York, Milan and London Fashion Week shows By Tina Christopoulos and Anupa Mistry Between runway presentations, VIP parties and countless celebrity spottings, Fashion Weeks are always a whirl of activity. But nowhere is the bustle of excitement felt more than backstage before a show, where some of the industry’s best-known names create the hair and makeup that make the total look work. In a refreshing twist, modern chignons took priority at the fall/winter 2009-2010 shows, while the common long locks of runways past took a backseat. Hair colour also made an impression at shows like Rodarte and Catherine Malandrino. Read on for the complete backstage report.

Eva Scrivo for Wella Professionals Catherine Malandrino, New York Fashion Week

salon > september 09

PHOTOS GerardO SOMOza

There was a wonderful synergy between fashion and beauty at the Catherine Malandrino show, where hair colour played an integral role in establishing the feel of the Surrealist-inspired collection. Malandrino, Odile Gilbert and Eva Scrivo collaborated to create the sleek, sophisticated chignons that perfectly alluded to the artists of the era. Crafted in multiple shapes, with subtly weaved colour panels in contrasting warm and cool palettes that mimicked wood grain, the end result was anything but ordinary. “It’s modern art without being pretentious,” says Gilbert.

salon52.ca

Dennis Clendennen and Odile Gilbert for Aveda Rodarte, New York Fashion Week Divided by hair colour (blonde, red or black), the Rodarte show featured architectural chignons inspired by the collection’s concept of building and construction. “The shapes are simple but the texture is complex,” says Odile Gilbert. “Like the collection, which plays with fabric and texture, the hair is sleek in front with an architectural, modern chignon in the back.” The hair was slicked back with a deep side part and a ponytail was laced up and wrapped to create this version of a chignon.

PhotoS Jon GurinSky

Rodarte’s choice to collaborate with Aveda also highlights their commitment to the environment. Rodarte’s designers, the Mulleavy sisters, took it a step further by designing the set for their show with all recycled or recyclable materials.

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september 09 < salon

Guido Paulo for Redken London and Milan Fashion Weeks

Bare complexions and nude lips left the spotlight to eyes during the F/W 2009-2010 shows. Either well-defined like in the Malandrino show, or with subtle coral highlights like at Rodarte, natural but confident eyes are taking centre stage this season.

In contrast to the sleek chignons we saw in New York, Guido Paulo pushed the envelope in Europe, with what he calls “The height of fashion,” a series of boldly exaggerated updos for the Luella and Prada shows. “This season it’s all about the ’do,” says Paulo, “hairstyles that have a strong presence, that push boundaries.” For the Prada show, Paulo created a dishevelled cloud of hair by rick-racking, showing that any style can be modernized either by enhancing the hair’s natural texture or by creating extreme texture with the help of products. The fun part is that these looks are easily adaptable to everyday—“just turn down the volume,” says Paulo.

salon > september 09

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PHOTO TOP LEFT, KEYSTONE PRESS, CLOCKWISE DOWN, TOP TWO, JON GuRINSKY, BOTTOM, GERaRDO SOMOza, REST COuRTESY REDKEN

Makeup 101

OPI for Cynthia Rowley F/W 2009-10 MODEL PHOTOS: LEE CLOWER, COuRTESY CYNTHIa ROWLEY

OPI nail technicians created dark and sophisticated looks for the Cynthia Rowley F/W 2009-10 show using the smoky charcoal Suzi Skis in the Pyreenees from the new La Colección de España series (pictured below). “Quietly powerful shades like cobalt blue and dark emerald are also the colours to wear for sophisticated fashion confidence, complementing the polish of chic tailored suits and skirts in black, navy and iron grey,” says Suzi WeissFischmann, OPI VP. “Smart coats and wrapped dresses in soft neutrals call for the richness of nude or deep tones on nails.” She also suggests experimenting with different finishes using the Matte collection, which features six cult-classic OPI shades in an edgy non-glossy finish. “An all-matte nail is fresh, confident and very runway.” For fall, Weiss-Fischmann’s personal pick is a deep green called Here Today… Gone Tomorrow, also from the España collection. “Dark green is the new black, and this blackest emerald looks absolutely gorgeous for fall.” S

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september 09 < salon

Behind-the-Scenes of

Canada’s Next Top Model

iewers anticipate the makeover episode of Canada’s Next Top Model because of the inevitable drama, but being in the chair isn’t so easy for the show’s contestants. “The hardest part of executing the makeover is trying not to make the girls cry when we cut their hair off,” says the show’s creative director, and America’s Next Top Model alum, Nolé Marin. “When you go for severe, high designer looks that may not be the sexiest, the girls have to get used to that.” For the third cycle, which ended this past July with winner Meaghan Waller, the 10 potentials were made over by the staff of Holts Salon & Spa at Holt Renfrew Bloor Street in Toronto. “A client works for the show and asked if we’d be interested in doing the episode,” explains Davide Palmieri, the salon’s creative director who put together the makeover team. “It was a great experience. They just gave us the inspiration and told us to do what we needed to do to achieve the desired looks,” he explains. “The girls were very open-minded even though they had their mirrors covered until the end.” Senior stylist Kiril Mumdjiev says the biggest challenge was creating very fashion-forward looks in just one day. “When we do extreme makeovers, the changes are drastic, colour often requires multiple applications and we have to understand the condition of the hair to keep it as healthy as possible. When working with regular clients you

salon > september 09

can take your time or do multiple visits.” While most of the girls loved their changes—aside from Nikita’s shock at her ultra-short bangs—and didn’t present too many challenges to staff, Marin, Mumdjiev and Palmieri agree the hardest look to pull off was for Rebeccah, who went from a curly dark brown crop to a short, platinum blond pixie cut. “With Rebeccah, it took us four tries to lift her hair which was kind of rough on her,” explains Marin. “But it came out amazing and her makeover was my favourite this season.” Mumdjiev adds of the challenge, “we wanted it really light without compromising the hair too much so it took the entire day.” S

The team from Holt Renfrew Toronto Bloor Street’s Holts Salon & Spa

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TOp pHOTO, COURTESY CTV, BOTTOM pHOTO, COURTESY HOlTS SAlOn & SpA

Third cycle of reality show lands potential models in Holts Salon & Spa By Anupa Mistry

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PROFILE

How stylist Ted Gibson went from small-town Texas to your television

Branding Genius g

rowing up in a strict military family, Ted gibson never thought heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be a hairstylist, let alone a makeover specialist on a hit reality show. But once he had a taste, the 44-year-old stylist, salon owner, product creator and new cast member of TLCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s What Not To Wear feverishly pursued every opportunity the industry gave him.

salon > september 09

salon52.ca

photos courtesy ted gibson, bio photo Jaime Windon

By Anupa Mistry

“When I was a kid, I’d play with hair but my dad wouldn’t really allow it,” explains Gibson who grew up in Killeen, Texas, about 60 miles north of state capital Austin. “So I was never really able to realize this passion until my early 20s. The next thing I knew I was in school winning competitions and that’s when I thought ‘Okay, maybe there is something here.’” After attending barber school part-time because he couldn’t afford to quit his job selling newspaper ads, Gibson also got licensed as a cosmetology instructor and made the decision to move to Austin. “My first job was working for a woman named Zan Ray at her Aveda concept salon,” Gibson says. “It was one of the premiere salons in Austin so we went to the Aveda Congress at their headquarters in Minnesota. In a short period of time we were bombarded with Aveda education and I decided that this was what I wanted to do—I wanted to work for corporate.” For the next seven years, Gibson worked for Aveda, in various capacities including global educator. However, it was the opportunity to oversee the New York City salons that brought him behind the runway. “At that time, these great models like Karen Elson and Kate Moss were really big,” he says of his experience working as a fashion and session stylist. “I was trying to build a reputation in the fashion community—I didn’t want to work on celebrities—so I did editorial for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and other magazines. Then I realized if I wanted to do covers and really make a name for myself, I needed to start working on celebrities.” Gibson lucked out with his first celebrity cover model. Angelina Jolie, who he styled for both Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire on the same day, became a regular client, and Gibson would travel the world with Jolie for the next six years. “I was very excited about meeting her,” he explains. “But, to be honest, I don’t think I understood what it meant for me personally or my career. Now, I would say that it did change my life.” In 2003, Gibson capitalized on his success and opened his first salon, Flatiron, in New York with his partner and husband, Jason Backe. “We didn’t come from the big name salons in New York—it kind of happened organically,” he says. “So I didn’t know how I was going to do it at first, but it was the best thing I could have ever done.” His client-focussed philosophy and real-world business savvy has made him an especially successful business owner, currently running a Washington, DC salon in addition to his New York location and readying another salon in the W Hotel in Ft. Lauderdale, FL for the fall. “As a hairstylist, you are about service. You have to exceed your client’s expectations and make them feel like they are the only customer when they are in your chair, whether it’s backstage at a fashion show, or in a hotel suite helping someone get ready for the Oscars, or in the salon,” he explains. The pay-off for this DIY work ethic is his new out-of-salon endeavour with What Not To Wear. “I’m really happy for the opportunity to create another extension of who I am,” he says. “I’m looking forward to not only building my brand, but encouraging women to get out of their ruts without changing who they are. It’s not any different than what I would do on a daily basis.” S

www

L-R: Gibson with Anne Hathaway; Gibson; the stylist and his first major celeb client Angelina Jolie

• To read more on Ted Gibson go to salon52.ca.

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september 09 < salon

colour

Time for a change? learn the dos and don’ts of transitioning your clients from summer fun to fall chic

not every client will demand, “i need something Once the client is open to change, there are a few different!” sometimes they need a little push things every colourist should keep in mind. to take that leap. Here’s how to inspire change for fall. 1. Plant the seed. At Supernova Salon, owner Dana Lyseng says, “As I’m finishing my style I suggest what I would do next time and what would look good for next season.” She also advises keeping a note so you can remember what was discussed and bring it up at the next appointment. 2. Arouse the senses. John Jen Hoe Chong, Multicultural Hairstylist of the Year from Blunt Salon, suggests displaying new colour swatches at each station so clients can see and touch them, and using enticing words during the consultation like ‘rich chocolate’ and ‘delicious caramel’ to spark attention. Susan Hayward, senior colourist at Taz Hair Co. and ID Artist and Ambassador Technical Consultant for L’Oréal Professionnel, also advises changing the salon visuals and ensuring you have up to date magazines featuring the hottest celeb trends. 3. Make your own statement. Hayward adds that clients will also take a cue from their stylist, so it’s important to change up your look as well. 4. Spread the word. “Changing even one client is inviting everyone she meets to come in for a new look,” says Hayward.

salon > september 09

1. A solid consultation is your best friend. Our experts suggest taking into consideration your client’s lifestyle, skin tone and eye colour, natural and artificial underlying pigments, hair porosity, long term hair goals, whether they would be best suited for a dark effect or a solid look for maximum impact, and so on. 2. Special treatments. Hayward suggests doing a pre- and post-colour treatment to address summer damage. Chong advises a detoxifying treatment a few days before the colour service to remove build-up. Lyseng likes to use a semi-permanent clear gloss on damp hair after shampooing to nourish and leave hair shiny and soft. 3. Be the expert. All our experts recommend prescribing the right at-home care for colour maintenance. Note: previously lightened hair will generally fade faster. 4. Get real. “Don’t just follow the trends, consider what would actually suit your client,” says Chong. Lyseng advises not to get carried away and go too dark and warns that a stylist should replace the underlying pigment to ensure they get the desired effect. “Give the client a realistic idea of the end result. If it’s going to be warmer than expected let them know,” adds Hayward.

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Hair: Edwin FOntanEz MakEup: Gina CrOziEr wardrObE: katElyn MOOnEy pHOtOs: GrEy zissEr

by Melissa brazier

Colour Wave the latest offerings in colour

Lakmé k.blonde and Collage Clair

The latest lightening system from Spanish hair care company Lakmé says adios to dried out locks. How so? The Ceramide Complex in this system contains natural ceramides and beeswax that replace structural lipids in the hair fibre keeping hair moisturized and healthy looking. The k.blonde compact bleaching powder lightens up to eight real shades and contains wheat proteins that protect and soften the hair during the colouring process. For excellent neutralizing, the k.blonde toners (available in pearl and silver) are ammonia-free and will rid hair of unwanted yellow shades. Lastly, the Collage Clair shade range gives stylists unlimited options when creating luminous blondes.

Matrix SoColor Mocha, Mocha

The new Mocha, Mocha collection from Matrix's permanent SoColor and Color Sync shades is anything but your run-of-the-mill browns. These coffee-inspired shades range from café au lait and cool cocoa to iced espresso. The three latest shades offer deeper and more neutral results than traditional mochas, giving stylists the ability to showcase the versatility of the cool-to-warm brunette palette. This new collection of colours also offers a creamier formula for even application, SoColor’s patented ColorGrip Technology for longerlasting results and Cera-Oil complex for deep conditioning and great shine. Plus, your clients will love the new scent featuring subtle notes of apple, strawberry and raspberry. Yum!

Wella Professionals Color Touch

With the relaunch of Wella’s demi-permanent Color Touch line this October, comes the advent of four new in-salon services: A Touch of Nature, Vibrancy, Light and Gloss. Depending on your client’s needs this line provides a range of shades that mirror the tonal pillars of Wella’s permanent colour Koleston Perfect—Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Deep Browns, Vibrant Reds and Special Mix. Ideal for a wide variety of clients, this line offers everything from a hint of colour to more vibrant, fashion oriented tones. The gentle, ammonia-free formula allows for up to 52 per cent more multidimensional colour and 63 per cent more shine with no tonal shifting. Plus, the Light Color Complex changes the way light interacts with colour creating depth, dimension and movement in the hair. S

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september 09 < salon

men

man made American Crew celebrates 15 years as a leading company in the men’s grooming market By Melissa Brazier

n 1994 the media was fixated on the recent suicide of rock legend Kurt Cobain. His untimely passing signaled the end of the greasy-haired-grunge era and the evolution of the well-groomed man. Filling a niche in the market for men-specific products, this was also the year men’s grooming company American Crew was born. A visit to Japan opened founder and creative director David Raccuglia’s eyes to the need for male-oriented products in North America. As a salon owner himself, Raccuglia began noticing the return of classic barbering from the 20s, 30s and 40s. However, the products available at the time were sticky and more suited to female hairstyles. So he developed a simple, six-product line that included a shampoo and conditioner, firm and light hold gels, pomade and texture cream, to address this emerging trend in men’s hair. Fast-forward 15 years and American Crew is now available in 20 countries worldwide offering comprehensive hair and skin care lines totaling 35 products. Beyond the products, the company also puts an emphasis on education. American Crew opened the Menswork Academy in Boulder, CO in 1998 and recently launched an instructional DVD set called the Menswork In-Salon Training Program. Raccuglia says, “American Crew is the ideal education partner for salons. Our program provides stylists with updated learning on a regular basis to increase morale, client retention and their understanding of the latest trends, styles and skills.” Raccuglia also ensures American Crew stays up to date by releasing a black and white men’s trend collection several times a year (Revere Collection 2009, shown here). “The products are not only designed for men to achieve the classic, masculine look, but they also work well with the trends as they evolve,” says Raccuglia. S

salon > september 09

Collection: Revere Collection 2009 Hair: Paul Wilson, American Crew Creative director Makeup: Samantha Trinh Wardrobe: James Worthington Demolet Photos: Tim Tucker

www • Go to salon52.ca for Raccuglia’s top tips on retailing to your male clientele.

salon52.ca

Beauty Buzz

The newest ways to care for your skin, from lip to lid and everything in between By Malorie Gilbert

ESTHETICS

Go Natural La Biosthetique has expanded its Natural Cosmetic line beyond hair care to include skin care as well. Of the seven products in this line, you’ll find everything from a rich, super-hydrating, apricot-scented body lotion to a delicate face and body tonic infused with ingredients like algae and mineral water. Other all-natural ingredients in these eco-certified skin remedies include sunflower oil, shea butter and olive oil. Info: labiosthetique.com

Honey Baby All Purpose Honee, a microwaveable hair removal kit by GiGi, has been put into bright, new packaging, along with the rest of the products in their wax category, which will be rolled out throughout the year. But, long-time GiGi fans must not fret, the products have not been reformulated just given a face lift. With this line’s new look but same high-performance formula, clients will still adore this hair removal system. Info: gigispa.com

Da’ Balm Ballmania introduces a lip balm collection called PurrFection, with each sphere-shaped balm decorated in different animal and jungle prints. Vanilla cream flavoured and infused with SPF-20, this balm is fun and sun savvy. Info: twist-and-pout.com

Clean and Green Ideal for clients who would like to combat the signs of aging, Aveda’s new Green Science Perfecting Cleanser and Replenishing Toner are loaded with hydrating and smoothing ingredients like caffeine, murumuru butter and ceramide-3. Plus, the bergamot and geranium essential oils deliver a pleasant aroma. Info: aveda.com

Rock On! RVB’s Trend&Basic line of makeup introduces its Rock Star palette, perfectly suited for creating glam and edgy looks. With 3D mascara, nude to plum lipstick tints and eye shadows featuring deep purples and greys, this set is feminine and ultra-fierce. Info: rvb.eu. S

salon52.ca

september 09 < salon

The Next Generation Matrix’s new line of ultra cool stylers caters to a younger clientele By Melissa Brazier

atrix addresses the needs of the younger generation with the launch of a new line this October called Vavoom Design Pulse. The lineup of six products covers all the bases—shine, texture, volume and hold—giving young clients the flexibility they desire. Adding to Design Pulse’s cool factor is a creative partnership with British hair guru Errol Douglas. Working with everything from short, moveable cuts to lengthier, defined waves, Douglas shows the versatility of Matrix’s newest innovations. The result is a collection that focuses on creating texture and definition in four distinct looks—an angled, layered bob, the shorter, spiky look, lengthy curls with a fierce fringe and the tousled yet styled men’s option.

salon > september 09

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Finger on the Pulse A rundown of the new Design Pulse lineup: Glow to Pieces Shine Wax

Quick and Dirty Matte Clay

A bright orange micro-emulsion that fights frizz, offers great shine and separates hair to create awesome definition.

A firm paste that’s ideal for styles with strong definition and separation. Add a little heat and hair will shine like the sun.

Messy Couture Molding Paste

Shape Scene Sculpting Paste

This smooth paste melts right in your hands and spreads easily for textured styles. Plus, it makes hair super soft and has the lasting power to keep up with your client.

A great styling aid for the indecisive, this paste allows you to shape and reshape hair without all the gunky after-mess.

Loosely Defined Texture Crème With a cream-gel consistency, this purple styler smoothes split ends without weighing down the hair.

Hair Lock Extra Strong Hold Hairspray Once the hair is styled and set, this finishing spray is the perfect denouement—a light mist that dries fast and gives strong, longlasting hold. S

Hair: Errol Douglas Photos courtesy Matrix Vavoom Design Pulse

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september 09 < salon

salon > september 09

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historic glamour SKP’s Essential Looks goes back in time for fall Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

eeping with fall’s focus on femininity, Part II of Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Look’s 111th edition collection features a 40s-inspired trend focused on texture and lady-like shapes. Taking graceful and understated post-war European women as their starting point, the Essential Looks team waved and curled hair in typical 40s fashion complete with Victory rolls and collapsed spirals that give an asymmetric shape. Rich and romantic hues like cherry red, deep espresso and chanteuse blonde keep the trend true to its era and, along with tailored clothing and softly lit photography, help up the nostalgia factor. To view the full collection, including Essential Looks’ three other trends (Out of Shape, 80s Luxe and The Dark Amazons) visit salon52.ca.

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september 09 < salon

historic glamour

salon > september 09

Collection: Essential Looks 111th Edition: Part II Essential Looks creative director: Steve Hogan Creative direction, hair: Tom Kroboth Creative direction, colour: Lesley Lawson Makeup: Gudrun M端ller Wardrobe: Ingo Nahrwold Photos: Sabine Liewald

salon52.ca

www â&#x20AC;˘ To view the entire collection check out salon52.ca S

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september 09 < salon

salon > september 09

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Hair by the Era

From 40s glam to 80s rock, Vivienne Mackinder’s latest collection symbolizes the return of lengthy manes Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

nspired by the runway shows of major fashion players in Paris and Milan— Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent and Armani—Vivienne Mackinder’s most recent body of work titled Retro Spectrum artfully combines 40s glam with 80s rock and gives it a modern spin. What does that mean exactly? When it came to the styling and cutting, Mackinder wanted to emphasize that long is in and short is out. Bringing forth rounded shapes, curls, braids, crimps and twists, Mackinder says she wanted this collection to express the importance of finishing and styling hair in the salon. “We need to create another reason for long hair clients to come in. Forget about that horrible old fashioned word ‘updo’, and focus on alternative finishing skills—setting the hair, doing soft chignons, half up half down styles and so on,” she explains. Although this couture collection is quite avant garde for the everyday client, Mackinder hopes a diluted version will percolate into the mainstream.

Collection: Retro Spectrum Hair: Vivienne Mackinder Makeup: David Maderich Wardrobe: David Widjaja Photos: Roberto Ligresti

salon52.ca

september 09 < salon

Hair by the Era

www • To check out Mackinder’s full collection head to salon52.ca

salon > september 09

salon52.ca

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salon > september 09

salon52.ca

up and away Damien Carney focuses on big hair with his latest collection Madames 09

Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

he drama queen doesn’t just crave the spotlight—she lives for it. Such is the case with Damien Carney’s Madames 09, where he saw each of the three models as vying for her time in the limelight. “For this shoot it’s as if I am looking through a window and the models can’t move or get out, sort of like trapped beauty,” explains Carney. Taking style to new heights, the main concept of this collection is hair that’s moving up and away. It was with this levity in mind that Carney sculpted the strong silhouettes, which he says gives the collection its ‘soul’. Using various backcombing techniques Carney says, “I wanted to focus on exposing the face shape. I like that the hairstyles look extreme and top heavy, but in a contrived, deliberate way.” S

Collection: Madames 09 Hair: Damien Carney, damiencarney.com Colour: Sue Pemberton, suepemberton.com Photos: Hama Sanders, hamasanders.com

www • Want more? To view other works by Damien Carney visit salon52.ca. salon52.ca

september 09 < salon

salon > september 09

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the lady is a vamp Edwin Johnston’s latest collection goes New Orleans burlesque with help from Anne Rice and Dita Von Teese

Te x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

hot on location at Victoria, BC’s luxe Rosewood Hotel, Edwin Johnston’s latest collection, Weekend Teese, is an homage to vampy American burlesque and Anne Rice’s Nosferatu-infested New Orleans. Johnston, owner of the Cutting Room in Nanaimo, BC, says the concept came from watching the 1959 film The Vampire Lovers. Also inspired by a Harper’s Bazaar photoshoot featuring well-known burlesque performer Dita Von Teese (from which the collection also derives its name), the three-image avant garde series features collisions of texture and hue, with an emphasis on unexpected colour placement and sleek-meets-frizz styling. Black harem pants and shiny leggings, along with gothic-inspired makeup courtesy of Cheryl Gushue, are paired with Old World-style armchairs and patterned wallpaper to complete the image of the eternally-youthful and alluring vampire. S

Collection: Weekend Teese Hair direction: Edwin Johnston for KMS California Makeup and wardrobe: Cheryl Gushue Photos: Suzanne Teresa

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september 09 < salon

avante classic

c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Melanie Whitmore discusses her C20 Makeup Artist of the Year collection B y M e l a n i e Wh i t m o r e a s t o l d t o M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

he name of my very first collection for the Contessas is Avante Classic and was inspired by my own style as a makeup artist of mixing classic beauty with an editorial edge. I wanted to create new, modern versions of recognizable looks. My evening look was very 40s, my avant garde was inspired by the go-go dancers of the 60s, and lastly, my day look emphasized the brows and a punch of colour on the lips, which I felt referenced several periods from Elizabethan to the 20s to modern day trends. Taking a cue from romantic artists such as Gustav Klimt and Alphonseo Mucha, I wanted the looks to be very feminine. I went with colours found in nature and made the skin look as healthy and alluring as possible. My secret weapon was the Aveda Tourmaline Charged Hydrating Creme as it preps and gives the skin amazing luminosity. The creative process for this shoot was very organic. I find when I’m not locked into an idea it’s easier to change things on the fly. From the first few frames we shot, everyone on set started to smile and laugh because we just knew we were on the right track. S

“I worked hard to even out the complexion to create a 'barely there makeup' effect, added an emphasis, on the browns and a fuchsia lip, to get a really simplistic daytime look.”

Makeup: Melanie Whitmore Hair: Sarah Mitchell Photos: David Hou

salon > september 09

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Hair Hero

John Steinberg on 50 years of hairstyling

From top: Steinberg in the early 70s; his mother, 1932, and father, 1966; styling model Jane Fellows in 1978; the Women of Substance calendar in 2006; a photo from the Women of Chiapas collection, 2004.

www • See John Steinberg through the eyes of his assistants past and present on salon52.ca. Plus don’t miss out on Salon Magazine’s party celebrating his 50 years in the biz. See Events, page 87.

salon > september 09

ohn Steinberg answers the door and welcomes me into his quaint home in Toronto. Sitting in the kitchen sipping ginger tea, I start by asking about his very first haircut. This elicits a warm chuckle from the man who has now cut approximately 90,000 heads of hair over the past 50 years. He recalls at the age of 17 cutting his fingers along with the hair—later affectionately dubbed “pulling a Steinberg.” His story begins in England, 1959. Fifteenyears-old, Steinberg started out as one of Scotts of Regent Street’s front-line employees, greeting clients at reception, whisking them to the elevator and chauffeuring them to the upper levels to meet their stylist. The following year Steinberg left this salon and began apprenticing at Carole London. He spent time learning from the tinter and permer, and asking questions at a twice-a-week breakfast meeting with salon owner and his wouldbe mentor Robert Edele. Steinberg left two-and-ahalf years later armed for his first job as an actual stylist at the Crouch End salon. Coiffing everyone from senior citizens to gangsters’ girlfriends, his clientele was anything but hum-drum. In 1967 Steinberg left England and was able to get to Canada for £30, no questions asked beyond, “do you have a police record?” He didn’t. Steinberg soon became creative director for Bruce of Crescendo’s three salon locations in Toronto. A mere 10 years later, he opened his own cutting edge salon called The Rainbow Room in Toronto’s upscale Rosedale area. The Rainbow Room was always pushing boundaries, colouring with bright primary shades and testing out styles that hadn’t been seen before. It’s this experimental nature and desire to work outside the lines that eventually earned him the nickname “the Rosedale Rebel.” However, beneath this bad boy persona there was always a heart of gold. In 1994 Steinberg partnered up with Donna-Lee Langton, founder of Langton Communications, to create what would become an annual pool tournament for the next decade. As a result of their efforts, the event raised a grand total of $186,000 for breast cancer research, meriting Steinberg the 2005 Contessa Community Service Award. Continuing his work with Princess Margaret Hospital, he also created the 2006 Women of Substance calendar. This project started out as an idea for client Christmas cards, for which Steinberg posed as 12 historic women, and ended up raising $26,000 more for his cause.

By Melissa Brazier Never afraid of the spotlight, Steinberg remembers his father visiting from England to see his first television appearance on CFTO. “I asked my dad, ‘What’d you think?’ He said, ‘You didn’t smile enough.’ [Since then] I’ve always smiled.” Beaming away, in 1985 Steinberg made his first appearance on FashionTelevision where he did an offbeat wedding segment. Over the years he has appeared on FT many more times, had a regular bit on CityLine and acted as a guest judge on both seasons of the series Superstar Hair Challenge. With all his experience in the industry Steinberg also puts a high value on mentoring the younger generation. In 2008 he created the cross-Canada lecture series called Are You Curious? When asked why he started the lectures he says, “Just yesterday, I was observing a stylist cutting hair in a way I haven’t seen before. I keep in touch with the young people so that I can learn.” Another channel for sharing his wisdom and experiences has been his monthly column for Salon Magazine titled Last Word (see page 90), which in 2008 he turned into a book called follicles! 50 stories of life and the art of hairdressing co-authored by Alexandra Innes. Although he doesn’t run the salon John Steinberg & Associates these days, Steinberg keeps in touch with his craft by working behind the chair three times a week. His other artistic ventures keep him plenty busy the rest of the time. Steinberg’s fascination with photography and Latin America, for example, blossomed into three shows for the Mexican Consulate and Tourist Board—People of Mexico, Cowboys and Mariachis and Women of Chiapas. Today, he owns a cabin in the mountains of Taxco, Mexico and visits as often as possible. Steinberg has been quoted as saying, “Everything I’ve wanted to do in hairdressing I have done.” My question is, what’s next? His eyes light up as he tells me about his plan to explore and photograph Canada, starting with British Columbia. He also shows me a short animation film about what a hairstylist does for the client, and is considering entering it into Toronto’s International Film Festival. Lastly, he is honoured to be nominated for 2009 Contessa Elite Master category and submitted his entry last month. Fancying himself a 50-year overnight success, Steinberg sums up his passion for hair best beginning his lectures with the line, “My name is John Steinberg and I’m an addict. I’ve been 50 years cutting hair.” On that note, we walk outside and Steinberg politely says thank you and heads towards a chiming ice cream truck for a frozen treat. S

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INTERIORS

Owner: Opened: Breakdown:

Hours of operation: Design and furniture: Retail:

Femme Coiffure Hair Spa 4185 Sainte-Catherine West, Westmount, QC, 514.934.2525, femmecoiffurehairspa.com Daniel Reboh May 1, 2009 900 sq. ft., 10 staff members, five cutting stations, two colour stations and two VIP stations Monday to Saturday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Lanvain RenĂŠ Furterer concept

salon > september 09

PHOTOS ALEX LEGAULT

Name: Info:

salon52.ca

Intimate settings Montreal’s Femme Coiffure Hair Spa introduces the concept of boutique salons By Tina Christopoulos

nce reserved for the retail sector, boutique concepts have grown in popularity around the world, first in hotels and now finally, in salons. Montreal’s newest hair spa, Femme Coiffure, in the upscale Westmount neighbourhood, is no more than 900 sq. ft. but packs a major punch. Upon entering the modern, all-white René Furterer concept salon, you’re immediately exposed to an environment of personalized care and attention. Refreshingly straightforward, the first thing guests see is a reception desk and five consultation and cutting stations. There isn’t the hustle and bustle of larger salons. With no waiting area, clients are immediately welcomed and personally greeted. Inspired by the quality of the René Furterer product line and the company’s scientific approach to hair care, owner Daniel Reboh wanted to create a genuine spa for hair, going beyond just what meets the eye. This translates perfectly into the technical area of the salon, a room tucked away behind the main space where clients get their scalp examined with the use of a capiloscope microscope. The team at Femme Coiffure then puts the emphasis on a proper diagnosis and prescription of the scalp. “Clients are bombarded with products these days,” says Reboh. “But they don’t even know how to start properly treating their hair. Here, we have a method, a concept, and we prioritize the quality of the hair with actual treatment.” They also proudly display products, taking the stigma out of selling. Products are displayed on cleverly concealed lit casings in the walls of the main room, directly acquainting guests with the boutique and without feeling like an obnoxious sales tactic. “The right product yields the right results,” says Reboh. “It’s a matter of educating the client as to what they really need. Sometimes a stylist will tell a client that they have dry ends, and give them a product for that, ignoring the fact that the client also has an oily scalp. Then they wonder why the product doesn’t work. When clients see results, they get attached.” The out-of-the-way room is the perfect destination for an in-depth consultation and treatment, offering comfort and most importantly, privacy. In all, the design—with its clean lines and all-white concept—is strategically conceived to create a soothing environment with the illusion of space. Fulllength windows in the façade also provide great natural lighting. “Everything about the design of this salon conveys the professionalism of the service,” says Lanvain designer Sylvain Émond. “From the moment you walk in, you immediately know you’re in for a one-onone, thorough hair consultation. It’s a concept perfectly adapted to modern day needs, where clients require excellent customer service.” S

salon52.ca

september 09 < salon

Happy 100th! STAGE PHOTOS D ArrAEz / OliviEr CHAuviGnAT SOurCE: l’OréAl PrOfESSiOnnEl

L’Oréal Professionnel celebrates their centennial anniversary by looking forward By Tina Christopoulos

rom June 7 to 9, over 4000 stylists from around the world came together in Paris for a birthday party like no other. With inspiration as a guiding principle, L’Oréal Professionnel hosted their partner stylists for three days of world-class shows, free-flowing cocktails and a majestic gala dinner under La Coupole of the Grand Palais. A patriotic Canadian presence was felt the during event, with Quebec’s Anna Pacitto-Merlo being honoured as the only North American hairstylist to present and Toronto-based L’Oréal business consultant Tanya Chernova also addressing attendees from over 70 countries with a seminar on creating the ultimate client experience in a professional salon. On the second day of celebrations guests were treated to a day of true inspiration. Under huge tents at the Tuileries Gardens they took in master shows on cut and colour, business and colour innovation, fashion and consumer needs, a collection presentation and an Inspiration Show at the Zenith with the brand’s international hairstylists. “The international Inspiration Show was unbelievable,” says LP’s Canadian director of education Colin Ford. “To watch the epitome of the world’s best hairstylists on stage; it was spectacular, very emotional.” salon52.ca

september 09 < salon

1907

1925

1940

Eugène Schueller creates Auréal, the first safe dye for hair.

L’Oréal releases d’Or, the company’s first blonding product. The launch is soon followed by L’Oréal Blanc in 1931, its first decolourizing product for platinum blondes, a shade made popular by Hollywood stars like Jean Harlow.

Schueller begins advertising his own training centres, the École de Teinture in Paris and the École Technique des Arts et de la Coiffure. This ad, from the magazine Hairshape of Paris reads “Here your children will learn how to be a good hair stylist.”

salon > september 09

1909

1929

1952

Schueller founds Scociété Française des Teintures Inoffensives pour Cheveaux, the company that will later become L’Oréal, on July 30, 1909.

The first permanent hair colour by L’Oréal is launched. Shown here, an advertisement for the hair dye in 1937.

Régé Color is released. Lasting for 6 to 8 shampoos, this direct colour could be retailed to clients, giving stylists another source of income.

salon52.ca

Jean-Luc Minetti for Alexandre de Paris presented “100 years in the world of hairstyling” in what was considered the show’s highlight. The presentation featured sophisticated modernday flapper girls in sleek bobs and finger-waved tresses, followed by futuristic and intricate updos that drew gasps of pleasure from the crowd. Nicolas Hiéronimus, worldwide president of L’Oréal Professionnel products division, was next on the agenda. Noting the brand’s incredible legacy of inventing the first hair colour, Hiéronimus mostly focused on the future of the salon industry and L’Oréal’s penchant for innovation. Forever striving to be ahead of the game by seeking new trends and new ideas, the main objective was to inspire hairstylists for the future. “We wanted to give an injection of hope and encouragement in an environment that’s not particularly easy at the moment,” says Minter Dial, managing director, international professional development, L’Oréal professional products division. Later in the evening, Angelo Seminara and Trevor Sorbie presented a playful show with an array of black-clad models in Balmain-inspired extended shoulder jackets, sporting colourful hairpieces in blue, orange, yellow and green. L’Oréal Professionnel’s ambassadors Laurent Decreton, Christophe Gaillet, Laetitia Guenaou and Eric Zemmour ended the evening with elegance and sophistication, showing ethereal looking girls with floral-like hairpieces. “I’ve never before seen so much glitz and glamour, with the best hairstylists in the world,” says Anna Pacitto-Merlo. “It was a celebration as only L’Oréal could have done. It was just magical to be a part of it.” S

salon52.ca

1954

1990

2009

After three years of market research, L’Oréal decides to cross the Atlantic to the US, the world’s largest cosmetics market at the time. COSmetics for hair, shortened to COSMAIR, became the exclusive representative for L’Oréal hair products in the United States.

A tone-on-tone permanent oxidizing hair colour system that did not contain ammonia, Diacolor was born.

L’Oréal celebrates its 100th anniversary in Paris, announcing future plans to launch a new colour innovation called Inoa. Stay tuned…

1978

2000

The first cream colour containing the conditioning polymer Ionène-G, Majirel, arrives in salons.

The company releases its first set of Color Collection trend images. This would come to be a twice-annual release, always coinciding with the fashion designer’s seasons.

september 09 < salon

THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

CON TES SAS TO SEE FINALISTS AND SEMIFINALISTS VISIT SALON52.CA

GOL D S P ON SO R S

S I LVE R S PON S O RS

salon52.ca

WHO WILL BE CANADA’S NEXT HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR? GALA EVENT

NOVEMBER 1, 2009

LOCATION

TICKETS

THE SHERATON CENTRE 123 QUEEN ST. WEST TORONTO, ON

TICKETS ON SALE SEPT.8 $140 BEFORE OCT. 8 $155 BEFORE OCT. 21 $180 TILL EVENT DATE

GET YOUR TICKETS NOW!

SCOOP

The Battle of the Salons will take over the Edmonton Event Centre on Sept. 20 as part of this year’s Hairapalooza. Produced by Pure Events and sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional and Modern Beauty Supplies, this event will feature a fashion show and three categories for the cut and colour competition. For more info call 780.919.5611 or email puremgmtgroup@gmail.com.

PHOTO COuRTESY SCHwARzkOPf PROfESSIOnAL

Up for a challenge?

Yes, Commander!

On June 21, the Sunday following the ABA AGM, long-time master judge and creator of the Canadian Master Judges Program Cecilia Leatherberry was honoured with a special tribute to mark her retirement. The ceremony was hosted by her successor Don Grylls. Other speakers included Al Peters, Kevin O’Regan, Marc Speir and a representative from each of the provinces.

Best Boss Venere Salon & Spa of Oakville, Burlington and Milton, ON, received the 2009 Passport to Prosperity Canadian Employer Champion Award on April 28 to recognize its commitment to providing work experiences for local students. Venere offers up to 22 co-op placements in its salons per year to mentor students. 76

salon > september 09

Movin’ On Up Stephanie Gougoux has recently taken on the role as new marketing director for Redken Canada, where she will be responsible for product launches and innovative promotional initiatives. The newly appointed group marketing manager at Matrix is Bradley Smith. He will be handling all advertising, public relations, promotions, product management and marketing events. During the annual general meeting for the Allied Beauty Association, Al Peters was officially named president. In this new role Peters, “wants to emphasize education and provide the latest information to the salons and spas in order to keep them on the leading edge.”

salon52.ca

PHOTOS AL PETERS, CECILIA LEATHER BERRY BY TOM TRAVES

Honouring Cecilia Leatherberry

Vidal Sassoon was recently named by Queen Elizabeth Commander of the British Order as a part of her 2009 birthday honours. He was bestowed this honour for his many years serving the hairstyling industry through his beauty empire.

Remembering Stephen Cheung Stephen Wing Cheung, founder and president of NP Group, passed away suddenly on June 20 at the age of 55. Known for his passion for the beauty industry, his company was his legacy as was his unmatched commitment to teachers, schools and the industry. He leaves behind brothers Franklin, Danny, Peter and sister Winney as well as his daughter Cora, who has assumed the position as president of NP Group aided by managing director and Stephen’s longtime friend and business associate Grazina Connell.

Decked Out Duo On June 22 Stacey and David Kinoshita from Winnipeg, MB were treated to two full days of pampering in Toronto. Winners of the OSiS Glamour Queen contest, the couple won a shopping spree at Toronto’s Eaton Centre, a spa day at the Elmwood Spa and a hair makeover with Lainey of LaineyGossip.com and CTV’s eTalk at Oskar on Scollard Hair Studio. The newly-pampered couple also got to hit the annual Smut Soiree where Lainey dished exclusive celebrity gossip that doesn’t appear on her blog. S

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SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se190

FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

LCN Je t’amie pg 23 .........................................800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca Matrix Biolage pg 2-3 ......................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Micro-Pigmentation Centre pg 86 ....................888-737-6268 ........................ www.micropigmentationcentre.com Milano Software pg 77 ......................................800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com OPI Colección de España pg 19 .......................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Pivot Point pg 85 ...............................................888-735-4247 ........................ www.pivotpointcanada.ca Schwarzkopf BlondMe pg 25 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf BlondMe pg 24 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf ClubSKP pg 16 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 4-5 .........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Soma Hair pg 84 ...............................................866-843-2257 ........................ www.somahair.ca SpaRitual Forbidden Collection pg 37 .............877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com

MAIL FORM TO: SALON MAGAZINE PO BOX 357, BEETON, ON L0G 1A0

Star Nail Canada pg 65 .....................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com

or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

Wella Professionals Color Touch pg 6-7.........800-41-WELLA...................... www.wellausa.com

salon > september 09

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EVENTS

Premiere Orlando 2009 photos BABAK

The 19th annual Premiere Orlando event in Orlando, FL on June 7 and 8 attracted over 43,000 attendees. Artists like Robert Cromeans and Angus Mitchell, Orlando Pita and Martin Parsons presented on the main stage, while top colourists including Patrick McIvor and Beth Minardi hosted classes and shows.

Vancouver Hairapalooza With over 300 beauty industry pros in attendance, Schwarzkopf â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual Vancouver Hairapalooza competition took place on June 14. Winning the new talent category were Piper London, Charlotte Roberts and Helen Nguyen, while Jay Hibbert, Van Tum and Candice Tribe won the professional category. Mint Hair Studio also took to the stage with a special presentation to honour SKPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 111th anniversary. salon52.ca

september 09< salon

photos Courtesy L'oréaL

LP & Raphael Mazzucco at LuminaTO Beauty pros and art gurus mingled on June 8 at Toronto’s LuminaTO Festival for the latest art installation from Canadian fashion photographer Raphael Mazzucco. L’Oréal Professionnel and Lancôme specially commissioned two never-before-seen pieces. Guests were able to peruse the exhibit and schmooze with VP of professional brands for L’Oréal Canada, Bernard Nassif.

Framesi Presents Spring/Summer 09 From May 24 to 26 Framesi hosted a three-day educational event at Woodbridge, ON’s Metro Beauty Supply. Stylists and students took in the company’s latest collections from educators including Toronto-based Melanie Bourne and Paul J. Taylor as well as international team members from Italy, Luigi Guerretta and Thomas Fenech.

salon > september 09

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professionneL

EVENTS

Amore Show Avola College of Hairstyling & Esthetics presented its end-ofyear show at Toronto’s This is London nightclub on June 14. With proceeds going to the Hospital for Sick Children Foundation, the Amore Show 2009 was a feel good hair experience showcasing the work of some of Ontario’s most talented salons.

Redken Color Extend Relaunch Toronto’s Salon Escape hosted a breakdown of Redken’s completely relaunched Color Extend line on June 2. Owner Robert Barbosa explained the five-product line, including the new Shine Enrich serum. salon52.ca

ONEXONE Fundraiser The week of June 8 for three evenings, a Redken tent was set up in Toronto’s Dundas Square to raise money for ONEXONE. As part of LuminaTO’s Light on Your Feet, the event featured online hair product prescriptions, advice from Redken stylists and a chance to test out the latest products and an onsite ONEXONE photo booth. september 09< salon

EVENTS

ABA General Meeting photos tom traves

From June 15-21 the ABA annual general meeting took place at the Fairmont Empress in Victoria, BC. Highlights included an appearance from football legend Michael (Pinball) Clemons and the President’s Ball where a Queen Elizabeth II impersonator ‘knighted’ the newly appointed ABA president Al Peters, Kevin O’Regan of O’Regan Agencies and Wella Canada’s Joe Iannuzzi.

photos J brown for studio-h

Fashion on Fire Studio-H paired up with London, ON-area firefighters and designers to put on Fashion on Fire—a charity event benefiting the Kilee Patchell-Evans Autism Research Group on June 14. Over 300 people attended the outdoor fashion show, which was emceed by owner Heather Wenman along with Bob Geilen from the London Fire Department.

salon > september 09

salon52.ca

Salon Magazine 06/09 Salon Collage Ad Size Donates to Sick 3.75”W x 10” H Kids photos doug mcmillan

Toronto’s Salon Collage presented proceeds from its fundraising efforts to the Brain Tumor Research Centre (BTRC) at The Hospital for Sick Children at a gathering on June 30. Inspired by his own daughter’s battle with brain cancer and the compassion of her surgeon, co-director of the BTRC Dr. James Rutka, co-owner Sandro Macri and his team from Salon Collage presented a cheque for $10,000 to the foundation.

Photo courtesy

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Champlain Institute Open House The Champlain Institute hosted an education and networking event, along with tours at an open house on May 25. Students were given a chance to meet with recruiters from The Marshall Group, Al Barillis from Alternative Beauty Services, representatives from Dove Spa and Holly Sherrard, education manager with Dermalogica Canada. salon52.ca

Alterna, Color Mark, Kis, Kevin Murphy, L’Oréal Professionnel, Logics, Matrix, PureOlogy, Tressa. Bioelements, Bodyography, GiGi. Footlogix, Gehwol, IBD, OPI, SpaRitual. Belvedere, Dannyco, Fan Out, Kasho, T3, Yasaka. SASKATCHEWAN ALBERTA 11348 - 142 St. 2623A Faithfull Ave. Saskatoon Edmonton (306) 343-3398 (780) 454-3388

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EVENTS

Matrix Biolage at LuminaTO The Matrix team pitched a tent in Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Yorkville area on June 13, filled it with exotic plants and models and met with the public as part of the LuminaTO Festival. Matrix artists Paul Wilke and Cory Young were set up on platforms, styling models live using Biolage products.

Annual Milano Exchange Milano Software held its annual Exchange on June 8 and 9 in Toronto with over 160 clients from North America. The Olympic-themed event also featured international success coach Lauren Gartland of Inspiring Champions as keynote speaker and offered educational sessions on making the most of your software programs.

salon > september 09

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PHOTOS LINDA DAWN HAMMOND/INDYFOTO.COM

Coupe Bizzarre’s B-day Party Toronto’s Coupe Bizzarre salon hosted a get together to mark its 15th anniversary on May 20. The team shared the occasion along with clients, friends and industry pros, putting on a runway presentation of the salon's latest collection.

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BRANCH OUT Caprice Salon & Spa Grand Opening Marina and Igor Boukin hosted a gathering on May 22 to fete the opening of their second Toronto location. Situated on Toronto’s Yorkville Avenue, the event showcased the space’s complete renovation and Marina’s talents with three models styled by her and sporting looks inspired by Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essensity.

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september 09< salon

EVENTS

Toni&Guy Cumberland Celebrate 10 Years On June 29 owners Clarissa and Rob Pupo and their team celebrated the salonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 10th anniversary. Starting with a tribute to the late Guy Mascolo and a runway presentation by artistic team members AK Mack and Laura Beth Wilson, the event benefited Rally for Kids with Cancer.

salon > september 09

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SEPTEMBER 2009 CAPILEX September 13, 2009 Centre des Congres de Quebec Quebec City, QC Info: capilexbeaute.ca

CANTIN MOMENTUM September 20, 2009 Centre des Congrès de Quebec Quebec City, QC Info: cantinbeaute.com

JOHN STEINBERG 50TH ANNIVERSARY PARTY September 21, 2009 Stone’s Place, Toronto, ON Info: salon52.ca

HAIRAPALOOZA EDMONTON September 20, 2009 Edmonton, AB Info: schwarzkopf-professional.com

BATTLE OF THE SALONS September 20, 2009 Edmonton Event Centre, Edmonton, AB; Info: 780.919.5611

HAIRAPALOOZA MONTREAL September 21, 2009 Chalut, Montreal, QC Info: schwarzkopf-professional.ca

STAR BÉDARD September 27—28, 2009 Palais des congrès de Montreal Montreal, QC Info: 450.967.7827

GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com

REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN

NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES

SKP EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor

AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767

KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861

SASKATOON ABA September 27—28, 2009 Prairielands Exhibition Park, Hall B Regina, SK Info: abacanada.com

CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor

TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS Educational Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available; Info: 866.731.4327

MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879

LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, V.indd 1 07.cover.RE e.guide. US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 18 Issue 11 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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LAST WORD

had an artistic revelation during the late 70s, creating hairstyles for photography. I created my images very quickly, stepped back to look at the result, and walked away to let the photographer do his or her thing. The photographer (and I was lucky enough to work with some of the great Canadian-based photographers) invariably asked if I was certain I felt happy with what I’d done. In my bratty way, I confidently replied yes, and fortunately everything went well. At this same time, I was suffering from headaches, so I followed a good suggestion and went for an eye test. The test showed that I needed to wear glasses for distance. So I had been looking at my work softly out of focus. And it seemed good to me; I saw shape, proportion and silhouette. I wore my glasses at the next photo shoot. When the photographer asked if I was ready, I stood back—and saw all kinds of imperfections. I kept fiddling with the shape, and cleaning it up, looking for perfection in a different way than before. And I wasted a lot of time. I realized that my pre-glasses way of seeing actually helped give my work a somewhat different, unique look. So I never wore glasses for a photo shoot again. Or for working in the salon, for that matter. (For updos, I still ask the client or model to stand up, while I step back to look at the proportion.) But for those of you who take your optician’s advice more seriously than I, here are some interesting facts on glasses. Believe it or not, glasses have been around since 1260. Designed in Italy to help the elderly to read, they instantly became popular. Paintings from the time show eyeglass wearers in religious and scholarly settings. But the initial design of glasses consisted only of lenses and a nose

salon > september 09

bridge, so the wearer had to hold them in place. Not very convenient. The Spaniards tried looping ribbons around the ears to hold the glasses, which, understandably, didn’t really catch on. Happily, in 1730, Edward Scarlett, a London optician, devised rigid side pieces to rest on top of the ears. Voilà! Bifocals, I was surprised to learn, date back to the 1780s. Benjamin Franklin, a brilliant chap and an avid reader, got tired of having to continually switch between distance and reading glasses. So he had his optician cut the lenses of both his glasses in two, and put them together. And he could just look up or down. Appearances have always loomed large among the well-to-do. Hence the popularity for more than a century among elite men of the monocle, a single round glass. No self-respecting 1890s capitalist was complete without a morning coat, a top hat and a custom-made monocle. And the lorgnette was all the rage with fashion-conscious women. Although an 18th-century English optician invented this armless pair of glasses with a long handle on one side, women favoured it more often as an elegant accessory than to see well. Which brings me back to my original point about my own quirky way of working. I truly believe that in art there is no right or wrong way of expressing yourself—or of seeing. Just go ahead and do it. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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