Salon Magazine, September 2018 by Salon Communications Inc.

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Creative Colour SEPTEMBER 2018

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Brilliant Glow Brightening Oil • 2X more shine* and makes hair 7X stronger** blondes • Crystal-clear—won’t stain even the palest blonde

Hyper High Lift Permanent Crème Color • The ultimate time saver, delivering up to 5 levels of lift to natural hair with one-step lightening and toning • Three shine-enhancing shades: Champagne, Pearl and Clear Booster

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Joico® Laboratories, Imported by Piidea Canada Ltd

HAIR Richard Mannah

COLOR Marisa Marino

PHOTO Hama Sanders

COMO SE LLAMA? —

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September 2018 44 F E AT U R E

The Halo Effect

Inspired by makeup techniques, these technical tips are all you need to create stellar highlighting looks.

46 F E AT U R E

Making a Colour Connection

Top colourists weigh in with solutions to major hair challenges, helping you step up your colour game.

48 F E AT U R E

Crossing the Finish Line

From pastel to ash, here’s a rundown on different ways to customize your client’s hair colour.

E L L A & JA D E , AU S T R A L I A

I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

“To get a beautiful colour story, essentially you’re contouring and highlighting hair as you would a face.”

Adrian Rotolo, Paul Falltrick, Ella & Jade, Francesco Fontana, Silas Tsang, Mandy MacFadden, Rodrigo Araneda, Frank Cini.

— MICHAEL SHIRE, GOLDWELL EDUCATOR ON THE COVER: ADRIAN ROTOLO, IBIZA HAIR, AUSTRALIA salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 13

68 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Heidi Kenney

Editor’s Letter

Discover the fresh approach in this Canadian Colourist finalist collection.

Publisher’s Note

P RO F I L E

Be Fearless on Your Path

Up close and personal with international hairstylist, Jay Mahmood.

PAU L FA L LT R I C K , PAU L FA L LT R I C K C R E AT I V E , U . K .

23 W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Refresh your fall lineup with top care, colour and styling launches, plus what’s new in nails.

52 A DR I A N RO T O L O

62 NAHA WINNER S E S S I O N/ EDITOR I A L M A N DY M AC FA D D E N , S A L O N D E C O RU M , N E W M A R K E T, O N T.

72 BUSINESS

On the House

Find out how free services can translate into added dollars for your salon.

74 INTER IORS

Punchy Upgrade

Contessa winners team up and create a salon that has enough room for everyone.

76 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Events + Scoop

82 SA LON STOR IE S

Sharing the Passion

Celebrating proud in salon moments. 14 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

Discover a 360Â° color care regimen that begins with the ChromaTech Service to prime, condition and seal during haircolor application. 90% of stylists who tested this salon-exclusive service reported that their clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair looked and felt healthier after haircolor application.* MoroccanoilProfessionals.com

*From testing by 23 professional stylists on 115 clients.

ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y

Editor’s Letter —

Moisture Shampoo Nourish your hair, and preserve your color with this Sulfate-Free Shampoo. own weight in moisture to quench your hair! Great for naturally curly and colored treated hair.

Moisture Conditioner Infuse new life into damaged hair and let it shine with superior hydration. Perfect for Dry, cracked skin!

SOMA Complete Colour Great for sensitive scalp

• Deposit Only, Permanent Color • No Fading • Absolutely No Lift • No Ammonia • No MEA • Keratin Protein Enriched • Sunflower Oil delivery system

SOMA HAIR TECHNOLOGY

(866)843-2257 www.somaorganics.com or http://www.facebook.com/somahair Distributor inquiries welcome.

SOMA Hair Technology 1.866.843.2257 www.somaorganics.com 16 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

Falling for a Fresh Start As the warmth of summer gives way to a fresh crispness in the air, it’s a reminder that cooler fall days are just around the corner. Whether you’re looking for a subtle change or a whole new look, September seems to lend itself to making said changes, and hair colour is one of the best ways to refresh anyone’s look. From rich natural brunette, blonde and auburn hues to playful pastel shades, the colourist’s palette seem to be endless—and that’s to say nothing of the techniques used to create the versatile looks that are as unique as your clients. In “The Halo Effect” on page 44, we delve into the art of highlights and how techniques used by makeup artists are being employed by colourists taking traditional highlights to a whole new level. In “Crossing the Finish Line” on page 48, we share even more ways to customize your client’s hair colour and create a polished, unique look that will have them rethinking everything they know about hair colour. This is also an exciting time of year with the Contessa Awards fast approaching. If you haven’t already, sign up for our e-newsletter and get a first look at the semi-finalist list when it’s announced in mid-September. To celebrate our 30th anniversary, you’ll want to mark your calendars for November 4, when the gala at the Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto will take place (early bird tickets also go on sale in September). We can’t wait to see you there!

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

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Salon Magazine ISSN 1489-7059, VOLUME 27, ISSUE 7 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto annalee@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH) Yasmin Grothé yasmin@salonmagazine.ca MANAGING EDITOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lucy Mazzucco lucy@salonmagazine.ca COPY EDITOR Liz Bruckner

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca VICE-PRESIDENT STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Greg Robins greg@salonmagazine.ca

Breaking the Rules

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca

I recently saw the Alexander McQueen documentary McQueen, the story of the wildly successful and unconventional fashion designer who sadly ended his life in 2010. He developed a love of fashion early on, began making skirts as a young boy for his beloved sister, and as a teenager he managed to wedge his way into the bespoke Savile Row, where he learned men’s tailoring. He honed his skills in cutting fabric methodically, sewing collars and lapels repeatedly because, clearly, McQueen had drive, passion and a thirst for knowledge. His curiosity eventually led him on a path to study at the highly regarded Central Saint Martins school of fashion. His teacher said although she recognized he was talented, he had something else that set him apart: Passion. Once he had mastered his skills, he then went on to break every rule, with incredible, forward-thinking style. It’s quite fitting that I’ve now seen this film, after our Contessa entry deadline, and having attended the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), where Canadians won big (see page 60 for a look at the winners). The parallels between a fashion designer and a competitionoriented hairstylist are clear, not only in terms of creativity, but also when it comes to tenacity, desire for success, and above all, passion. Competitions are amazing training grounds for honing your skills as a hairstylist. To be truly good at your craft, there must be a strong understanding of basic skills— understanding shape and form, the ability to manipulate hair from pin curls to waves to colour placement, and the list goes on. Whether for a competition, editorial work, bridal hair, or cutting a classic bob, each requires a degree of mastery that takes hours of practice and dedication to cultivate. Lifelong learning is one of the pillars of Salon’s editorial focus, and we strive to continually share tactics, tips and methods that inspire you to pursue your passion, open new doors and encourage you to unleash your inner rogue!

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

18 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

OPERATIONS MANAGER (ON LEAVE) Karren Han CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

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salonmagazine.ca ➣

Inspiration Corner Need some #hairinspo? Visit SalonMagazine.ca’s collection archive— where you’ll be sure to find what you’re looking for, and more!

So You Think You Can Style?

➣

Congratulations to the winners of our latest “So You Think You Can Style?” contests: Emma Porcellato from Guelph, Ont., who won “Beautiful Balayage” and Michael Dubuc from Drummondville, Que., who won “Sun’s Out, Buns Out!”. To find out what inspired their winning looks, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

Good Vibes Only Read Toronto-based hairstylist Lisa Dinh’s touching story about how she overcame the trials and tribulations throughout her hairstyling journey.

20 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: EMMA PORCELLATO, GUELPH, ONT; HAIR: MICHAEL DUBUC, DRUMMONDVILLE, QUE; INSTAGRAM/GETTY, HAIR: ELIE KASHI, ROYALS HAIR, SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA, MAKEUP: CHEREINE WADDELL, STYLING: CHERYL TAN, PHOTOS: DANIEL KNOTT; LISA DINH, TORONTO, ONT.

#CELEBWORTHY! GET INSPIRED AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA AND RECREATE CELEBRITY LOOKS THAT TOOK THE RED CARPET AND SOCIAL MEDIA BY STORM THIS SEASON.

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THE LATEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES, LINE EXTENSIONS AND STYLES TO SPARK YOUR CREATIVE ENERGY.

➣ Goldwell has named its 2018 Global Zoom Canadian gold winners. The photo-based competition required entrants to submit a hairstyle inspired by the brand’s Elemental collection. Congratulations and good luck to all who will be competing in the international competition in October in Toronto!

PHOTO: GOLDWELL

Creative Colorist Vu Nguyen, Lure, Vancouver New Talent Colorist Taylor Brockerville, Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld. Partner Colorist Connor Lange, Bob + Paige, Toronto

Hairlines — NEWS

➣ I N T RO D U C I N G …

L’Oréal #ColorfulHair Flash Pro Hair Makeup Since many hair colour trends have originated from makeup, it comes as no surprise that L’Oréal Professionnel is launching makeup for hair. Available in four temporary hues (velvety yellowgold and rose-gold, along with glittery holographic blue-green and purple-blue), #ColorfulHair Flash Pro Hair Makeup is applied as a 15-minute insalon service, is visible on all hair shades, nontransferable and washes out in one shampoo. It’s also a perfect add-on for the upcoming holiday season (especially Halloween!).

Bona Fide Haircare With skincare-inspired ingredients, like hyaluronic acid and micelles, Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Bonacure helps repair hair and reverse the signs of aging with peptides, collagen, keratin and Q10+. P.S. All BC Bonacure shampoos are now powered by micellar technology to gently cleanse hair while preserving its moisture.

—

Hyaluronic Moisture Kick BB Hydra Pearl is new to the BC Bonacure family. It conditions and protects hair from heat damage while balancing natural moisture level and adding shine.

24 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

Q10+ Time Restore is back! This three-product anti-aging range revives hair’s youthfulness. |

Soft as Satin

Give colour an iridescent effect with Revlonissimo Colorsmetique Satinescent. Providing up to four levels of lift, these six new shades offer a three-dimensional satin finish that balances warm and cold tones. Launched on the heels of Revlon Professional’s rebranding, the company’s new tagline “Create Boldly. Live Boldly.” aims to empower and encourage hairstylists and women to embrace their individual style. The company has also unveiled new products and packaging for their colour, care and styling ranges that feature a more feminine, cohesive look.

PHOTOS: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

Schwarzkopf Professional unveils its revamped BC Bonacure product range.

keep your beard game strong. no matter where the road takes you. Keep your beard clean with our leave-in Beard Foam Cleanser and tame it with our Beard Balm. Get your Beard Grooming Essentials at AmericanCrew.com FOR INQUIRIES PLEASE CALL 1.800.387.7980 Â© 2018 AMERICAN CREW. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

@AMERICANCREWCANADA

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Hairlines — NEWS

New Season = New Shades Redken adds Natural Ash and Glossy Reds to its Shades EQ repertoire. This liquid, demi-permanent range has just added Natural Ash and Glossy Reds. Six shades of Natural Ash, featuring a black-to-grey background with a blue/violet reflect, are ideal for cool toning, refreshing colour, and are intermixable with other Shades EQ shades. Glossy Reds turn up the heat with five copper and red shades (three containing Redken’s exclusive R5 dye) for longer wear and colour visibility.

➣ LI V ING THE HIGH-LIFT LIFE

Vroom Meets Groom

Since its launch last year, Joico’s Blonde Life Lightening and Brightening System has delivered a complete colour system for all blondes. Now, the brand has added the Blonde Life Hyper High Lift Permanent Crème Colour. Available in three shades—Champagne, Pearl and Clear Booster— each is a one-step lightener and toner that provides five levels of lift while strengthening and protecting hair from the inside out, thanks to its bond-building Argiplex conditioning complex.

American Crew and Harley-Davidson join forces for a special collaboration. These two brands have more in common than you may think, with each known for paying tribute to its heritage, not to mention their shared values of freedom and self-expression. This partnership features a series of campaigns, including Style for the Road, which features photography by American Crew’s founder and top editorial photographer, David Raccuglia. The timing of this partnership couldn’t be more perfect, with Harley-Davidson’s 115th anniversary celebration this year and American Crew’s 25th anniversary next year!

VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA TO SEE THE STYLE FOR THE ROAD CAMPAIGN IN ACTION.

26 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

➣ DELICIOUS COLOUR

Paul Mitchell’s Chocolate+ Series For clients craving a richer colour (that still covers greys), Paul Mitchell’s The Color Chocolate+ Series includes six warm shades in levels four to nine that provide natural grey coverage. How? The shades have been designed to prevent over-depositing orange and red tones, for rich, tonal results. Plus, each permanent colour is intermixable with other Paul Mitchell The Color shades for a truly customizable result.

PHOTOS: REDKEN, JOICO, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, AMERICAN CREW

Meet the Newest Addition to Joico’s Blonde Life System.

PURE CAVIAR. PURE STRENGTH.

Reduce breakage by up to 99%* for hair transformation after just one use.

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TOOLBOX

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Moroccanoil Professional Series Titanium Curling Iron

Restore hair to its virgin state with Alterna Haircare’s Caviar Anti-Aging Restructuring Bond Repair. This eight-piece product range of care and styling products includes the brand’s Caviar Bond Enforcing Technology, which contains hydrogenated castor oil to recreate, rebuild and reconnect broken bonds, while reducing damage by up to 99 per cent.

A Renewing Experience

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Extra-long, one-inch titanium barrel provides even heat distribution

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Heats in one minute, with patented temperature stability technology for heat recovery

Discover the power of oil with Matrix Biolage Advanced Repair Oil Renew. Debunking common misconceptions about oils, the Biolage Advanced Repair Oil Renew System, which features a Shampoo, Conditioner and Leave-In Cream, contains soybean oil to preserve moisture, along with argan and coconut oil to seal, smooth and protect hair. The three-part system works together to penetrate deep into the cuticle, without weighing hair down.

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Adjustable heat setting from 265°F to 430°F with digital LED display

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I N T RO D U C I N G …

Sachajuan Launches in Canada! This Swedish brand is making a name for itself with its refined take on beauty. The brand has developed a high-performance range of cleansing, care and styling products formulated with the brand’s Ocean Silk Technology to strengthen hair, increase elasticity and add moisture, while boosting shine and protecting hair from damage.

28 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

“The titanium barrel gives off even heat, which is imperative for even heat distribution, resulting in a shiny, even curl pattern. With the extra-long barrel, you have plenty of room on the iron for clients with long or thick hair, and you don’t have to overlap hair.”

— KEVIN HUGHES, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR MOROCCANOIL

PHOTOS: ALTERNA HAIRCARE, MOROCCANOIL, SACHAJUAN, MATRIX

Hairlines — NEWS

Like a Virgin

THE

INTENSELY COOL COLLECTION 10A ASH

10PA PEARL ASH

10V VIOLET

10BV BLUE VIOLET

Four new shades to neutralize warmth, enhance shine and brighten locks with rich results.

For more information, contact your local distributor or visit paulmitchellpro.com Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Get Social @PaulMitchellPro #PaulMitchellPro #TheDemi

Hairlines — NEWS

Twice as Nice Keune adds Luminous Pearl and Cover Plus shades to its So Pure Natural Balance Color ammoniafree range. Inspired by jewels and seashells, Luminous Pearl allows you to create soft, iridescent blonde shades, such as Very Light Pearl Blonde, Very Light Pearl Mahogany Blonde and Light Pearl Golden Blonde. For extra grey coverage, Cover Plus’ Light Blonde, Dark Blonde and Medium Brown include extra pigments and nourishing ceramides that deeply penetrate the hair for additional grey coverage without extra mixing.

➣

Get Wet

30 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

More to Love Get voluminous care with Design.ME Hair’s Puff.ME Shampoo and Conditioner. On the heels of the success of its Puff.ME Volumizing Spray, Design.ME has launched Puff.ME Shampoo and Conditioner. This dynamic duo completes the Puff.ME experience, allowing clients to begin their volumizing regime in the shower. Features of the colour-safe Shampoo and Conditioner include frizz control, breakage and heat protection up to 160°C, as well as detangling and anti-aging benefits.

PHOTOS: KEUNE, DESIGN.ME, Z.ONE CONCEPT

This three-product system is infused with organic papaya extract and hyaluronic acid to transform hair’s look and feel, while also providing anti-aging benefits. The Moisture Plus Shampoo and Conditioner adds softness, improves manageability and helps maintain hair’s ideal moisture balance. The Moisture Plus Whipped Cream is a no-rinse moisturizing foam that is applied on damp hair before styling for healthy-looking results.

➣

Give hair a boost with milk_shake’s new Moisture Plus range by z.one concept.

The new Professional edition Only at dysoncanada.ca/stylist #dysonprohair

“AT FASHION WEEK, WE CREATE EXTRAVAGANT DIRECTIONAL LOOKS TO INSPIRE NAIL ARTISTS AND TECHS. THESE LOOKS CAN BE TONED DOWN AND APPLIED TO ANY CLIENT FROM THE SIMPLEST TO THE MOST DARING!” Hairlines — NAILS

— TAMARA DI LULLO, EDUCATION AMBASSADOR FOR CND

S U N S E T B O U L E VA R D

OPI We’re feeling the Peruvian vibes from OPI’s latest collection, with shades such as deep red, I Love You Just Be-Cusco.

Artistic Nail Design Help nails feel the heat this fall with coral crème Too Much Sauce from the Caution: Extremely Hot collection.

CND Embrace mother nature with CND’s Wild Earth collection of shades such as muted terracotta Spear.

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

From New York to London to Paris, nails were not forgotten on the runways of fashion week, and featured some of the season’s hottest upcoming nail art trends. Here are a few of our favourites. 1 For Sofia Webster’s whimsical, ballroom dancing-inspired collection at London Fashion Week, Tracey Lee and the CND Design Lab Team created a vibrant range with Swarovski crystals, ombré and French tips. 2 At NYFW, the CND Design Lab Team paired daringly bold designs in Libertine’s show with a playful take on textures, including these 3D matte nails in rich, saturated hues. 3 Nude nails aren’t going anywhere, so it’s time to step it up. For the Cushnie et Ochs show at NYFW, nail artist Julie Kandalec created a shattered metallic ombré, inspired by architect Zaha Hadid’s work. 32 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

4 For Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s NYFW show, ORLY ambassador Holly Falcone combined geometric lines, negative space and a confetti accent nail to create a colourful mani that breaks all the rules. 5 Animal prints keep making a style comeback. At Jeremy Scott’s NYFW show, Miss Pop created a technoinspired print with hand-painted, macaroni shaped lines. 6 At the Asian wonderland-themed Manish Arora show at Paris Fashion Week, the CND Design Lab Team used a fan-shaped stamp pattern featuring hand-painted Koi fish, finished with Swarovski details.

Evo by Bio Sculpture Keep it soft and feminine with Bella, a light pink with earthy undertones from the Medley collection.

China Glaze Mustard yellow is a fall staple, and Mustard the Courage from the Ready to Wear collection is no exception.

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM.COM, ESSIE, LCN, OPI, ORLY, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN

Nailing the Runway

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Hairlines — NAILS INSPO

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AS WE BEGIN GRABBING OUR COATS FOR FALL, THERE’S ANOTHER TYPE OF COAT TO KEEP IN MIND—TOPCOATS! WE SPOKE WITH NAIL EXPERTS ABOUT MAKING THE MOST OF NAIL LOOKS WITH THIS SEASON’S TRENDIEST NAIL FINISHES.

Top it Off Not So Average While we’ve seen matte and chrome nails for the last few years, there’s a revival of different nail effects, such as holographics, for a more multidimensional, customized result. “Chrome is still cool, but we are seeing more transparent chromes rather than the initial opaque pigmented chromes,” says Di Lullo. “I personally like mixing chromes and doing ombré effects to keep it fresh, or using chrome pigments over a lace or webbing to create a textured pattern.” “Seeing variations on chrome proves that what could have easily been an in and out trend is now a formidable staple in a manicurist’s nail art arsenal,” adds Chelsea Baart, a global artist and educator for OPI who’s based in Victoria, B.C. “Matte and chrome are being given new life with simple upgrades, such as adding glitter or reflective inlays under the matte finish for a softer, ethereal look. Polishing or stamping on top of chrome for dimension and variety is another popular trend right now.” Become a Hacker More often than not, your client’s nail art request is not always available in a bottle. Baart recommends getting creative with the use of nail pigments, such 34 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

GENIE IN A BOTTLE Another texture to consider adding to nail looks this fall is leather, which can be achieved with select shades in OPI’s Grease collection. “It’s an easy to try, non-committal foray into the textured nail world,” says Baart. For clients seeking a bolder look, OPI’s Pop Culture includes 3-D effects, such as bubble-like particles.

Created by Ben Davis from the Noun Project

PRO TIP INSTEAD OF USING A MATTE TOPCOAT, DI LULLO RECOMMENDS DELICATELY BUFFING THE TOPCOAT FOR A SUPER MATTE EFFECT, OR USING A COSMETIC SPONGE TO CREATE A SIMPLE TEXTURED LOOK FOR CONTRASTINGCOLOURED GEL MANICURES.

as loose glitter, on top of an uncured gel top coat. “Gently pat it down with a gloved finger, cure for 30 seconds, and brush off excess glitter,” she says. “My favourite nail hacks for creating texture are the ones that utilize the products I already have at my nail desk. For example, if I’m working with acrylic, a variety of products can be used depending on the effect I'm creating, such as dotting tools, needles, netting, dental floss and nail scrub brushes.” Di Lullo suggests using the sugaring technique to create a velvety texture on nails, using CND’s Retention+ or Perfect Color Powder, which is dusted over uncured gel polish. With Fashion Week providing some major #nailinspo, Di Lullo says it’s important not to get intimidated by the extravagant looks. “I try to take my inspiration from art and fashion trends, and less from nail photos,” she says. “If a client asks me to copy a design, I’ll always try to do something different or out-do myself. It’s all up to us to interpret for our client’s needs.”

“Nail trends are perfect for creating more revenue. Nail technicians can and should charge accordingly for any type of nail art. To entice your clients to try something new, show them pictures of what their favourite celebrities are wearing. Be sure to make suggestions to them of what you can offer while you're giving the service, since some clients are unsure of what you might be able to offer.” — CHELSEA BAART, A GLOBAL ARTIST AND EDUCATOR FOR OPI

PHOTOS: TAMARA DI LULLO, CANDY NAIL BAR

From matte to chrome and everything in between, nail finishes can make or break your client’s nail look. “Texture is big right now,” says Tamara Di Lullo, an education ambassador for CND and owner of Candy Nail Bar in Montreal. “Contrast is still important, so mixing matte or textured finishes with super slick and shiny is very on trend.”

Beard Colouring 101 While some clients will choose to rock their grey beards, others aren’t ready to embrace grey yet—and they don’t have to. As it turns out, colouring men’s facial hair is becoming a more common service in salons and barbershops, and there’s a tried and true technique to colouring beards that will give your male clients a natural, polished look. “Unless your client is icy blonde or platinum, in which case a darker beard is a great contrast, I like to keep hair colour consistent with beard colour because it provides a natural look,” says Fabrizio Perciballi, a men’s hairstylist at Toronto’s P&H Salon. 36 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

Stay Away Grey Even if they only have a handful of grey hairs cropping up, some clients (you know the ones) just can’t handle it. “For clients who aren’t fond of a little bit of grey popping up in their beards, I always recommend a semi-permanent colour rinse,” says Perciballi. “Semi-permanent colour is great for concealing grey hair at the sideburns and in beards because it’s translucent colour that will cover white and grey hair, but still give you a natural result.” In addition, this colour service only takes five minutes, which makes it quick and easy to achieve.

According to Ian Daburn, a barber at Barber & Co. in Vancouver, a man’s natural hair colour makes a big difference. “A man with lighter hair will typically have a lot of red in their beard. They will need a dark blonde or light brown colour with heavy deposits of ash, so that the red would be neutrally balanced,” says Daburn. Also, keep in mind that some skin tones, such as darker skin tones, can handle a darker beard.

PHOTOS: THAIR: JASON HALL, JASON HALL HAIRDRESSING, U.K., MAKEUP: JO SUGAR, PHOTO: DESMOND MURRAY; (NEXT PAGE) HAIR & PHOTO: GREGSON GASTAR, BG’S LOUNGE, AUSTRALIA, STYLING: SPACECOWBOY

Hairlines — MEN

GIVE YOUR MALE CLIENTS WHAT THEY WANT WITH THE BEST WAYS TO COLOUR THEIR BEARDS.

Saving Face Similar to haircuts, the shape of your client’s face should determine the type of beard they have. As with a good haircut, a beard is what will frame his face, accentuating his best features. “When a client has a round face, you shape the beard to complement the haircut, too,” says Perciballi. “Remove the hair at the side of his beard for a narrow-sided beard, leading into some weight on the bottom to elongate the face.” He also considers how both the beard and haircut work together, aiming to counterbalance by incorporating different shapes into both the beard and haircut.

Going 50/50 Beards with a few stray grey hairs are one thing, but when men are more than 50 per cent grey, that’s a different challenge. For these clients, Perciballi says you need to take two factors into consideration. “First, ask him about maintenance, how often he cuts his hair (which then would require a colour touch-up) and how regrowth of the grey will be reflected in the colour you’re applying,” he says. Once you have discussed those factors, selecting a colour that matches his skin tone is key. Daburn recommends opting for a lighter shade. “Grey coverage has a double deposit of neutral colour, which can lead to a much darker result than anticipated,” he says. “Also, comb the colour into the grey areas of your client’s beard for a natural balance, so that you skip over some grey areas, and he will look a few years younger.”

“UNLESS THEY ARE ICY BLONDE, A DARKER BEARD PROVIDES A CONTRAST WHILE STILL CREATING A NATURAL LOOK.” — FABRIZO PERCIBALLI, P&H SALON, TORONTO

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 37

Flipping Out

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R+Co Jackpot Styling Crème

Bold and Blunt Redken City Beats and Color Gels Lacquers Talk about a dynamic duo! Redken’s global creative director Guido Palau and global colour creative director Josh Wood teamed up to transform models’ hair colour for Marc Jacobs’ show at NYFW. Palau gave the girls a ’60s-inspired blunt bob, and Wood transformed their colour to various shades of neon, strobe-inspired hues, using Redken’s City Beats semi-permanent colour and Color Gels Lacquers permanent colour. The result: A rainbow range of vibrant yet reflective shades. 38 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

For clients who can’t seem to decide on a side or middle part, it’s time to “flip” the script! As seen at Anna Sui’s NYFW show, lead stylist and R+Co co-founder Garren used the brand’s Jackpot Styling Crème to create a tousled, textured look that was flipped to one side. This low-maintenance look is perfect for clients who are looking to embrace the undone hair trend.

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM.COM, REDKEN, R+CO, DEREK BECK/COREY ELLIS, AMIKA, KMS, L’ORÉAL PROFESSSIONNEL

With Fashion Weeks—here and abroad— offering some major #hairinspo, we’ve rounded up the top trends that are sure to be in demand this season, along with the products you’ll need to create them.

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Hairlines — TREND REPORT

Turn Inspiration into Reality

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Braids for Days While we’ve grown accustomed to seeing braided looks take centre stage at music festivals, they’ve also become a staple for elevating the traditional updo. Case in point: The models at Ulla Johnson’s show at NYFW, who sported sleek braided buns by hairstylist Esther Langham, who utilized Amika’s Fluxus Touchable Hairspray to clean up ends for a sleek finish.

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Amika Fluxus Touchable Hairspray

Plait Perfection

KMS HairStay Working Hairspray For Simone Rocha’s London show, hairstylist James Pecis created three side-parted custom plaits that were tied with a satin bow and locked in place with KMS’ HairStay Working Hairspray. Amping up the femininity, he added a beaded bow barette to secure the side-swept pieces, complementing the designer’s elegant yet eccentric esthetic.

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Sculpted Frizz

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L’Oréal Professionnel Volume Lift

Not Your Average Pony L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Pli and Wild Stylers Rebel Push Up While ponytails continue to be a hot style on runways, Anthony Turner turned up the heat with a ’20s-inspired, finger-waved pony at Erdem’s London show. He created the waves using a combination of L’Oréal Professionnel’s Techni.Art Pli and Wild Stylers Rebel Push Up Texturizing Mousse, which were combed into hair before waved on the side of the model’s face, accenting the ponytail’s side-part.

Who says frizz is a faux pas? At Sonia Rykiel’s Paris show, hairstylist Paul Hanlon created an over-the-top voluminous, frizzed-out look—reminiscent of the designer’s own hairstyle— using crimping for a range of architectural-inspired shapes. The texture and volume created drama and movement that worked beautifully on the runway, and added an unexpected twist to traditionally classic styles. While extensions were used to create this dramatic runway version, consider using L’Oréal Professionnel’s Volume Lift root lift spraymousse to help your client’s hair reach for the skies. salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 39

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Unapologetically Polished Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine At Temperley London’s show at London Fashion Week, Moroccanoil’s global ambassador Antonio Calero Corral took inspiration from powerful women of the 1930s for a modern take on traditionally feminine hairstyles. With soft waves draping, hair was finished with Moroccanoil’s Glimmer Shine for a glossy result, and secured behind the neck to frame the face.

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Tailored Top Knots

For Toronto Women’s Fashion Week, Redken Canada’s styling ambassador Cindy DuPlantis took the lead, elevating the classic top knot at the Stephan Caras show into a more sophisticated style to complement the designer’s range of evening dresses and ball gowns. DuPlantis used Redken’s Guts 10 Root Volumize Spray Foam for height and Control Addict 28 Extra High-Hold Hairspray to lock the style in place.

Keeping it Real Redken Brews Manuever Enhancing each model’s natural texture was the goal at the Austen Dor show at Toronto Men’s Fashion Week. Redken Canada’s styling ambassador Cindy DuPlantis used the Redken Brews Maneuver, a water-based cream pomade with medium control and a smooth finish.

40 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

PHOTOS: NAOMI GRAY MATHUR, MOROCCANOIL, SHAYNE GRAY, REDKEN, CHE ROSALES

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Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS

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1 6

Fall in Love 1 A LITTLE PICK-ME-UP Revive lived-in styles with Paul Mitchell’s Tea Tree Wave Refresher Spray, which contains a blend of tea tree oil, peppermint and coconut for improved manageability and texture. 2 NEW LIFE Refresh your lived-in locks with Neuma’s reNeu Dry Shampoo, a talc-free spray made of natural rice and tapioca starch powders that absorb excess oil, neutralize odour and provide lightweight volume and shine. 3 THEY’RE BACK! Aveda’s Cherry Almond Shampoo and Conditioner have returned with a reformulated cherry blossom and almond oil blend, and contain 98 per cent naturally derived ingredients for deeper cleansing and weightless conditioning. 4 WORK HARD Shield hair from brass with Amika’s Bust Your Brass Violet Leave-In Treatment Foam, a daily leave-in conditioner with violet pigments to preserve cool tones. 5 BODY GOALS Give hair twice as much body with Big Sexy Hair’s Total Body Bodifying Blow Dry Lotion, a lightweight cream applied to damp hair for noticeable volume. 6 TWO-IN-ONE Cleanse and tone hair in one step with Schwarzkopf Professional’s BlondMe Blush Wash in Strawberry, now integrated with the brand’s BlondMe bonding technology for healthier pastel results.

42 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

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The Halo Effe The most exquisite hair highlighting effects are now inspired by makeup. Discover the best technical tips on how to achieve these luminous, luxe looks. BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

It’s an understatement to say that hair colour is the new makeup. Every major brand is now positioning its new palettes as colour accessories, so clients can change their hair colour on a whim, experiment with new placements, and fall for sun-kissed looks. “To get that beautiful colour story, essentially you’re contouring and highlighting hair as you would a face. You’re using lightening products and hair colour as a makeup palette to enhance or minimize,” says Michael Shire, a national Goldwell artist.

Contouring

There are a multitude of ways to create a contouring effect on hair, but mainly “it depends on how much work your guest is willing to go for. So, you really want to make sure you address this during the consultation,” says Shire. In contouring, you’re basically working with highlights and lowlights to create the illusion of light and shadows. “Pay attention to what nature would do,” recommends Shire. “If you emulate that, it’s a fail-safe approach. And always remember to ‘tuck’ hair underneath with lowlights as you work towards the back of the head.” Depending on how extreme you want the look to be, work with a 20- or 30-volume developer. “But you will need hair to be as light as it can be,” adds Shire. “Now that bond multipliers are part of so many brands’ lightening systems, they help keep hair’s integrity intact, which is a pivotal and important part of contouring. “The toner is also super important, as you want to acidify the hair after you pre-lighten it, to keep from snapping or breaking.” 44 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

CONTOURING Michael Shire’s Go-To Products Goldwell Oxycur Platine Lightener: “It’s a ‘muddier’ and thicker product that stays where you apply it, without dripping. Also avoid ‘tiger stripes’ on the hair, so you have a smooth, delicate transition between light and darker areas.” Goldwell Silklift Control (in Ash): A one-step powerful lift and tone lightener. “It gives you a massive transformation from level five to 10 without any brassiness. Hair is beautiful and feels like silk.”

PHOTOS: HAIR: HERMIZ DANIEL, JOEY SCANDIZZO SALON, AUSTRALIA, COLOUR: KYRA WILLIAMS, MAKEUP: JANICE WU, STYLING: ELAINE MARSHALL, PHOTO: KARLA MAJNARIC; HAIR: CHRISTOPHE GAILLET, MAKEUP: IZABELA SZELAGOWSKA, STYLING: WYZA & DOMINIKA SYCZYNSKA, PHOTO: WERONIKA KOSIŃSKA

Halo Highlights

Crystal Brown, colour ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel, defines halo highlights as “lightness around the entire hairline that illuminates the face.” These specks of light are usually placed fairly close to the scalp, so that they start softly and are more diffused, then build more brightness into the lengths and tips. Placement follows, or is parallel to, the hairline. Brown starts by separating out a one- to twocentimetre deep section around the entire perimeter and working there first, in either balayage or highlights. If she needs to protect this section when moving onto the rest of the hair, Brown gently lays a plastic film over the section. Depending on the hair’s condition, or how dark it is, the technique and the product choice will vary. Brown usually chooses balayage and freehand techniques for blonder hair. “For darker hair, I usually work in very tight babylights, enclosed in foil, with a very feathered application at the scalp combined with ‘tipping’ on the ends. ‘Tipping’ is achieved by back-brushing the lengths left out between the foiled and feathering lightener onto the last 1/2 to 1/3 of the length.”

Blush Balayage

Lavenders, cobalt steels and dusty rose are adding their poetic touch to balayage. As in makeup, hair colour tends to have a “colour of the moment,” and right now we’re seeing blush tones everywhere. In hair colour, blush translates to soft and slightly pinkish and peach tones. “I like glossing or toning client’s hair with a fresh or existing balayage into a blush shade,” says Brown. “It’s so easy to do because the tones are soft. They gently fade away, and then you can change them just as you would your shade of lip gloss.” “This fall, we’ll be seeing the same effect, but with deeper, bolder colours with more tonal qualities and depth,” adds Shire. “The technique stays the same, but we just change the palette up a bit. Just as the seasons shift, hair colour should as well.”

HALO HIGHLIGHTS Crystal Brown’s Go-To Products L’Oréal Professionnel Platinium and Platinium Plus Lightener Lightening Paste: two fast-acting lighteners providing up to seven levels of lift that can be used for balayage or highlights. “It doesn’t swell, so it doesn’t move from where I put it and it respects the integrity of the hair.” L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond: a bond strengthening system for colour and lighteners that is “added to everything. It helps protect hair’s integrity.”

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 45

COLOUR INSIDE THE LINES These pros have been creating nextlevel hair colour for decades, so they know about your hue challenges—and how to help you solve them.

With all the trendy pigment shades available, are you finding that more colour correction is required when clients didn’t get the lilac, mint or pink hue they had hoped for? What is the process of colour correction for these shades? Andrea Nguyen: Lighter instead of brighter. Find out how committed to this colour they are, and let them know they need to go darker. I would do a strand test to find out how easily the colour can be removed from the client’s hair. Within 25 minutes, you will see where the pigment is going and if it does get lighter or brighter. Loretta Tom: Oftentimes clients are told they can tone it out, but that is only a temporary solution. Whatever the colour hair is lifted to, is the colour that will be exposed, which means that in order to not be brassy you will need to lift that brass out. 46 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

Denis de Souza: For more pastel shades—anyone who wants to be bubble-gum pink for example—getting that colour to stay is a challenge. In order to achieve that pastel shade, your hair has to be lightened a lot, so it’s hard to maintain that colour. What are the steps to walking a client through the colour correction process? Andrea Nguyen: Find out the previous history of the hair. Ask if they’ve had colour in their hair over the past year, and dig deep about what they did before and what they want now. Then, talk about expectations, in terms of colour, and make it more of a visual discussion than verbal conversation: it’s important to know what they like about the photo. It could be a long lob they want for example, and have nothing to do with hair colour.

@ivorynoirsalon’s Andrea Nguyen takes a step-by-step approach to all hair colour challenges.

How do you work with correcting the brassiness of a brunette who has had their hair lightened? Andrea Nguyen: Keep expectations low. Let them know that it will be a process and, for the most part, it takes two or three sessions. Find out if they will be okay with hair colour being warmer in the meantime. Bonding agents like Olaplex are able to use a higher developer and hair will tend to stay healthy, so we now have clients with higher expectations. QUESTION FOUR: What is the word on correcting box colour? Is there a secret? Loretta Tom: Box colour can be very unpredictable. Often, it can lead to banding and create an imbalance of tones in the hair. Treating these cases

PHOTO: INSTAGRAM.COM, RIGHT: HAIR: WESTROW ART TEAM, MAKEUP: SAM COLLINS, PHOTOGRAPHER: PAUL GILL; HAIR: CHRISTOPHE GAILLET, MAKEUP: IZABELA SZELAGOWSKA, PHOTO: WERONIKA KOSINSKA

THE EXPERTS: Andrea Nguyen, owner Ivory Noir Salon, Calgary; Loretta Tom, master colourist, salon Haze, Vancouver; Denis de Souza, co-owner of Mare Salon, West Hollywood

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BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

Grey-haired clients can be challenging, not only for colour but for hair texture. Can you speak to the texture challenges and keeping hair healthy through the process? requires a lot of patience and more often than not, multiple salon visits to achieve the desired shade. Managing expectations is extremely important, as the integrity of the hair can often be compromised when the colourist or client tries to make changes too quickly. What is the biggest challenge with blondes? Denis de Souza: Avoiding demarcation lines, which are often called banding lines, is most challenging when it comes to achieving the perfect shade of blonde. Precision, what level to lift the

PRO TIP: “MIRRORING SHOWS THEM WHAT THAT WILL LOOK LIKE. CLIENTS WILL WANT A GREY ASH BLONDE, AND I’LL GRAB A SWATCH TO HOLD TO THEIR SKIN TONE TO SHOW THEM. THIS IS A WEAPON IN MY POCKET. IT’S A WAY TO MANAGE EXPECTATIONS. IT ALLOWS ME THE OPPORTUNITY TO HAVE THE DIALOGUE AND EXPLAIN WHAT IS NECESSARY.” ANDREA NUGYEN, IVORY NOIR SALON, CALGARY

hair to, and knowing which products to choose becomes very important, as does knowing when to push the boundaries and when to stay within the limits. Formulating the proper toner for neutralization is also key. What have you found to be the most challenging aspect of working with clients who want red? Loretta Tom: For clients wanting red hair, it’s very important to determine the proper hue. As red is very striking, you want to make sure that the warmth, ashiness or neutralness suits the skin tone of the client. My tip for stylists trying to achieve red on a dark-haired client using colour is to add some ash into the formulation to give a truer red, as lifting from darker shades can make the red look slightly orange.

Loretta Tom: Grey hairs are very coarse and wiry, and are usually extremely stubborn to colour. Colourists often will resort to a more pigmented colour line, or a darker shade to achieve coverage, however this means their hair colour will be darker. When the client decides they want a change, it becomes very difficult to lift out and correct their colour. No matter your colour line, knowing what hues to use, in terms of the level of lift it will give to the hair, will help when you’re working with clients who want to go lighter.

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 47

Crossing the From pastel and pearl to ash and gloss, we’re breaking down the ways to finish your hair colour this season. BY VERONICA BOODHAN

2. Ash

From ash blondes to browns to greys, this muted finish can transform the everyday to the extraordinary. “When you go with a shade leaning to the ash side, it’s going to look more matte,” says Celene Dupuis, colour ambassador for Redken Canada. “It doesn’t have that high-shine finish because ash colours absorb light. It’s not too matte or too glossy, so it’s very natural looking.”

1. “It’s a trend that doesn’t seem to be going away,” says Susan Boccia, education manager for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada. And while pastels are now considered a mainstay, not every client wants mermaid locks—especially in the fall months. But that’s not to say you can’t offer clients a pastelled version of their colour for a refreshing take on their go-to shade. 48 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

HOW-TO Schwarzkopf Professional Pastelfier “It allows you to give clients sheer, translucent shades, while still keeping their

colour light and dusty,” says Boccia. The Pastelfier can also be used with any of the brand’s Igora Royal shades for endless possibilities.

HOW-TO Redken Shades EQ Natural Ash “It’s really nice for fall and moving into winter, because it will settle down the colour and make it more like a winter blonde—it will cool it down slightly without over-ashing the shade,” says Dupuis. PRO TIP FOR ASH TONES, MATCH THE LEVEL OR SHADE TO YOUR CLIENT’S SKIN TONE FOR A NATURAL-LOOKING RESULT.

PHOTO: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, REDKEN

Pastel

Finish Line

3. Gloss

HOW-TO Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Vibrance Clear Gloss “It’s a great way to refresh colour. There’s no pigment, so it won’t change the colour,” says Boccia. “It can help the colour last longer because you’re putting on another layer of protection into the hair and helping increase the colour’s longevity. For clients that don’t colour their hair, or may only get their greys covered, glosses can benefit them as well. “Natural hair also loses its shine and protection over time. The longer your hair has been around, the older it is

Pearl and the more abused it is with wear and tear, shampooing, sun, etc.,” says Boccia. “Gloss makes hair look closer to what it looks like before it’s chemically treated.”

“As stylists, we shoot ourselves in the foot a little bit. We say things like ‘Balayage is great. It’s so low maintenance.’ And that tells the client they don’t need to come back for a long time. I’m trying to change the verbiage around that. I will say ‘If we want to prolong the colour, we should book halfway in-between for a gloss so the colour will look better for longer’.” — CELENE DUPUIS, COLOUR AMBASSADOR FOR REDKEN CANADA PRO TIP: FOR DARKER BRUNETTES, ADD A CAPFUL OF REDKEN’S SHADES EQ YELLOW KICKER FOR HAIR THAT’S “LIKE GLASS—IT MAKES THE HAIR LOOK SO SHINY; VERY KARDASHIAN-LIKE. THOSE WITH REALLY DARK HAIR, ALMOST BLACK HAIR—LEVEL 3 AND DOWN—CAN ALSO HAVE BUILDUP FROM THE COLOUR. I REALLY LOVE USING IT FOR DENSER TEXTURES OF HAIR,” SAYS DUPUIS.

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While hair glosses have been around for ages, the technology and shade selection keep getting better. But even a clear gloss can go a long way. “Our hair tends to be a little duller in the fall and winter,” says Boccia. “I think because we’re doing so much to the hair with colour—ombrés, balayage, babylights, and there’s still a lot of pre-lightening going on—people want to have that extra layer of gloss and shine. It’s a short, in-and-out service that doesn’t take a lot of extra time.”

Schwarzkopf Professional’s Pearlescence includes a range of pastel and rose-gold tones.

Gloss Boss

Redken’s Shades EQ Gloss has been a leader in the ammoniafree, demi-permanent colour category. “You can use for so many different situations: Colour correction, toning, or a full colour. It’s very versatile,” says Dupuis. “It’s a hair colour that thinks it’s a conditioner, so it makes the hair feel really good.” “If you’re going to change your hair as much as you change your makeup, we need something that keeps hair healthy and shiny, and creates minimal damage,” adds Dupuis.

Try adding a pearly effect to your blonde and brunette hues for a pearlescent finish. “Pearl is definitely an on-trend look because it’s so different,” says Cecile Washington, a Pravana educator and owner of Washington House Salon in Innisfil, Ont. “It sets it apart from the everyday tones. It requires biweekly toning, so it’s a great way to get your clients to come back for a service.” HOW-TO Pravana ChromaSilk Express Tones You can create stunning metallic finishes from pearl to smokey silver that process in five minutes or less, says Washington. “For example, lift your client to a true, pale-yellow level 10 and apply Express Tones in Pearl to create a true, pearlized, iridescent effect.”

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 49

CO LLE CTIO NS

September

A curation of inspiring styles to fuel your creativity.

salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 51

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; GETTING TECHNICAL

This dynamic Australian duo showcases a range of sharp cuts and airy styles, each complemented by multidimensional, on-trend colour.

52 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

COLOUR Adrian Rotolo,

Ibiza Hair, Australia HAIR Michael Piastrino STYLING Elaine Marshall PHOTOS Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 53

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; WHITE NOISE

Blondes are transformed in this British collection showcasing a modern take on textured styles.

HAIR Paul Fallltrick, Paul Falltrick Creative, U.K. MAKEUP Elizabeth Rita STYLING Masha Mombelli PHOTOS Barry Jeffery

54 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 55

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; DESERT STORM

This collection of textured styles and colour demonstrates the versatility of this Australian salon team.

HAIR Ella & Jade, Australia MAKEUP Tracy Terashima STYLING Courtney Humphreys PHOTOS Dan Knott

56 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 57

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; GRAPHIC CONTENT

Freehand colour techniques give this Canadian collection an outof-this-world edge.

58 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

HAIR Francesco Fontana,

Studio Fontana, Toronto MAKEUP Lou SwindenPayne and Cheryl Gushue PHOTOS Doug McMillan salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 59

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; GANADIAN TAKEOVER

On the national stage at the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), Canadians reigned supreme and took home a total of six* awards!

AVANT GARDE HAIR Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa MAKEUP Lan Nguyen-Grealis STYLING Jared Green PHOTOS John Rawson

*Make sure to check out our October Issue to see the Canadian winner for Salon/School Design of the Year!

60 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

MASTER STYLIST HAIR Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa MAKEUP Kylie O’Toole STYLING Ella Murphy PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 61

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; GANADIAN TAKEOVER

EDITORIAL/SESSION STYLIST HAIR Mandy MacFadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont. PHOTOS Allysandra Cervantes

62 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

HAIRCUTTING HAIR Rodrigo Araneda, oLab Coiffeurs, Montreal MAKEUP Marika Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Auteuil STYLING Sandra Bernard PHOTOS Martin Tremblay salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 63

Collections â&#x20AC;&#x201D; GANADIAN TAKEOVER

STYLING & FINISHING HAIR Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto MAKEUP Katie Foster PHOTOS Natasha Gerschon

64 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

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Contessa Gallery — 2018 CANADIAN COLOURIST FINALIST

Heidi Kenney “I like to think of every head like it’s a painting.”

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Instead of looking to the past for inspiration for her Canadian Colourist collection, Heidi Kenney decided to do what she does best: Create beautiful hair. “I decided to relax and make hair that I loved, instead of trying to look at [the work of past Contessa winners], she says. “I just wanted to let creativity take over.” Predicting purple would be a big colour for 2018 (it’s the Pantone Color of the Year after all!), Kenney wanted to include the colour in each of the looks. “I started out using purple on all of my models,” she says. “One is more of a red-violet and another is a true violet, and one is very pastel with peach, violet and yellow.” Building Bridges Kenney considers many of her peers to be her mentors, including Julio Rodriguez, Damien Carney, Sue Pemberton, Michelle Pargee and Rodrigo Araneda. And while nearly all of them work for different brands, they’ve been able to connect in their craft via competitions. 68 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

“It’s always refreshing to see the camaraderie between brands,” says Kenney. “I think it’s so exciting, as is the anticipation of waiting to find out if you made [the list for semi-finalists and finalists], and the whole Contessa night is, too.” Mastering the Craft While the work of fellow hairstylists and colourists continues to motivate her, most of Kenney’s own creative inspiration is derived from art. “I’m a big art fan and collector, so I’m extremely inspired by it. I look at art all the time, and I like to think of every head like it’s a painting.” With a more organic approach to colour, Kenney says it’s the creative process of putting together a Contessa collection that she enjoys the most. “When you’re doing a photoshoot, you can push yourself and your boundaries so much further and you can express yourself in your most creative way,” she says. “Just make hair you love, that’s beautiful and expresses who you are as an artist—a hair artist.”

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Profile — JAY MAHMOOD

Be Fearless On Your Path Here’s how award-winning hairstylist Jay Mahmood trusts his instincts— even when other people think differently.

Jay Mahmood hasn’t worked behind the chair for more than a decade. Even still, he remains on the cutting edge by following his passion and his instincts. Travelling extensively worldwide to educate fellow hairstylists as Goldwell’s global cutting ambassador, he says the secret to ultimate success is eduation. And with more hairstylists leaving the industry before their career even starts, Mahmood is on a mission to fuel the passion of educators, and not just that of up-andcoming hairstylists. “People start their career, they are really excited, and then something happens,” he says. “We need to ask ourselves as educators, ‘Are we inspiring them enough? Are we setting the right example for them?’” On a recent trip to Toronto, we sat down with Mahmood 70 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

for his perspective on why education is so important, what educators should be doing right now to cultivate the next generation, and why everyone should go with their gut instincts first.

What got you involved in education in the first place? When I think back on my journey, there were times when I felt let down. There were many people teaching me who didn’t believe in me and they didn’t exactly support me. I remember thinking that when I got good at cutting hair, I wanted to help people like me who were told they weren’t good enough. I guess I wanted to dedicate myself to those types of people.

As a student and a new hairstylist, what was most challenging for you? I had great training. But at times you get off on the wrong foot with people and I had a couple of teachers like that. One teacher even said this wasn’t the career for me. I always thought this was my career path, and look, now I teach in my industry.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF JAY MAHMOOD

BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

So, in a way, it was a good thing that it worked out as it did? It made me more determined. When you come out of school, you’re a kid, really. I look back and maybe I could have had a different attitude. I think, though, it’s tough to hear as a kid that you aren’t going to make it. Tim Hartley, who was our global boss at Sassoon at the time, would take me to shows and took me under his wing. What advice do you give to educators who are working with a younger generation? Be really patient. When I want to see their potential, I don’t look at their ability at hair, but I look at everything else they do. From the way they sweep, to how they fold their towels, to how they line up their tools. That’s

what I look at because that will tell me everything about their commitment and whether they takes it upon themselves to be ready for class. That level of discipline comes from within. That will tell you what you need to know about them.

got to a stage where I felt I needed a challenge. Then I went to Allilon and I ran that academy. And then I got to a stage where I felt I needed another challenge. If you feel you need a change, you need to follow that instinct, but it can be quite scary.

I knew it was time to leave and I trusted myself. I knew I was going to set up my own brand and travel and teach as a global educator—I knew that much. I was very true to what I was feeling and I didn’t let fear distract me from my next move.

So, how do you get over that fear? What was leaving like for you? Fear is what we create in our own minds. The worst thing, in any situation in life, is feeling safe. Safety doesn’t promote growth. I would say if something scares you, do it. When I was leaving Sassoon after 11 years—a job I came to when I was out of school—I knew the team I was going to. I trusted them and their vision excited me.

How did you become the global cutting ambassador for Goldwell?? A good friend of mine became a regional education manager for Goldwell. We were talking one night and I confided in him that I was thinking of putting together my own academy. He said that he felt Goldwell could use someone like me, who specializes in putting education systems into place like I do. He was having a meeting with the global team that week, which led to me receiving a bunch of messages because John Maroney [Goldwell’s VP and global creative director] was interested in setting up a cutting curriculum.

But then you made another big change and took on a new challenge. How did that happen? The interesting thing is, I was about to set up my own brand at the time. I had a great job with Allilon but I remember sitting down and saying I need to move on. They said, ‘Okay, do you have a job?’ I didn’t, but I knew it felt right.

What would you say to a young hairstylist who feels discouraged? Before questioning your commitment to the industry, look at where you are. Sometimes it’s the environment you’re in and sometimes that can make a difference. You can’t give up if you love hair. You have to be true to yourself. When I look at my career, I was at Sassoon for 11 years and I

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 71

Business —

On the house! You can hop off the fence: The merits of complimentary services are clear. BY YASMIN GROTHÉ

Customizing is Key “The best way to foster client retention is to focus on the customer experience,” says Charette. “Surprise them with a complimentary service that adds value to what they’re already paying for and always give more than what the client expects.” Another great way to employ that rationale: Institute a special VIP “client of the day” and post lots of photos and videos on social. Also, don’t forget to celebrate those special occasions that you know are important to your clients: birthdays, anniversaries, new babies, etc. It shows that you pay attention to the big events in their lives and that you care. Highlighting Your Services With this in mind, Staëlle Coulombe, a Joico educator and unicorn colour specialist from Quebec City, says she never gives away free products unless they are samples. “What I will do, though, is include the product in the service the client is receiving. For example, for a lightening process I will add a sink reconstructive treatment. That way, I also make sure the hair is in top condition while they feel they’re receiving a freebie.” 72 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

Freebies that give good dividends $25 off any service on a client’s birthday 20% off additional service Free cut or colour on the fifth booking Referral cards—yes, they still work! Buy-one-get-one (Contact your distributor for upcoming promotions.)

Another great way to give more value to the customer, while ensuring you are showcasing your talent for creating stunning colour, is to offer a complimentary product that you know and trust. “When clients come to see me for a unicorn or galaxy hair colour, I give them a free bottle of cleansing conditioner. That way, I am certain they have the proper product that will make my work stay beautiful as long as possible. And because it’s ‘on the house’ they most likely won’t refuse it! In the end, my client will think that I’m a better colourist and stylist, and they’re more likely to return,” she says. Analyzing Your Client If you’ve been working with a client for a long time, it’s relatively easy to get to know what she likes and dislikes. And if a client’s happy, she will more than likely share her experience on social media, which means referrals for you! However, as Charette cautions, “the main goal of these special promotions is to improve client retention through repeat and increased business and growth by referrals. These special offerings should be simple, easy to understand, and not a financial burden on the salon or staff.” Both new and existing clients are as important to pamper and offer incentives to, but too often, salons will focus on offering “extras” only to gain new clients, which leaves you and in the same position as where you started if retention doesn’t occur. “The idea is to offer an essential product to your client so that she comes back to buy it,” says Coulombe. But for that to happen, it’s vital to pay attention to her and her hair’s specific needs, because offering her the wrong product will not yield the same result. And that’s certainly not a situation you want to create.

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

Wondering if it’s really worth it to offer clients small perks to make them feel special? According to experts, not only does it cement your relationship, it also helps boost your business, big time! According to Angèle Charette, director of professional development for Matrix Canada, “the objective of any promotion or loyalty program is to keep your hair services top of mind for your clients, and get them to book more visits.” Basic marketing tactics carry even more weight in the age of economic fragmentation and social disruption. Implementing them now is understandably essential in a highly competitive market.

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Interiors — ESPACE C

Punchy Upgrade A former Contessa winner and her business partner expand on a winning formula at Espace C, a Montreal salon. BY YASMIN GROTHÉ After seven years in business, AnnMarie Goupil (who won the Contessa for Canadian Colourist of the Year in 2016) and her business associate, Kathleen Landry, decided to add more space to their existing salon in Brossard, on the outskirts of Montreal. “We hesitated a long time between opening a second salon and gutting the space for a complete reno,” says Goupil, “but in the end, we thought it would be difficult to recreate the same energy in a brand new location with another team. We have a very diverse clientele who connect well with our stylists, all of whom are quite different from one another.” “Now, having separated each technical area from each other, the salon is much more organized and there’s less chaos,” 74 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

she says. “My brother, Pete Goupil, who is an American Crew Canadian educator, now has his very own barbershop are called The Tiny Barbershop. Everybody loves the new space!”

Powerhouse Siblings

Speaking of Pete, the two über-creative Goupil hairstyling siblings get along marvellously well. “In the former iteration of the salon, we were working side by side. I think he liked being next to me because I entertain his clients,” says Ann-Marie with a laugh. Even now that the barbershop is in a separate section, they still find ways to communicate. “Pete is incredible at haircutting, and he always has time to answer my questions.”

Modern with a Dash of Vintage

Landry was tasked with creating the new design for the salon, based on her personal taste and a ton of Pinterest boards, which the business partners compiled. The result: an eclectic blend of very modern and functional professional salon furnishings provided by Lanvain Design, mixed in with a few curated vintage pieces—picked up on Kijiji—that make for a very unique and colourful look. “We wanted a neutral, classic background that we can slightly alter in the coming years as needed. The goal is always to please our clients who want a space that’s strong, beautiful and unique.”

DETAILS Opened in 2011 and renovated in 2018 DESIGN Kathleen Landry and Lanvain Design SPACE 1,900 square feet, including a separate barbershop 11 Colour Stations 10 Styling Stations 5 Sinks 2 Barber Chairs STAFF 8 Hairstylists 2 Barbers 2 Assistants 2 Receptionists

PHOTOS: LANVAIN DESIGN

BRANDS American Crew Label M L’Oréal Professionnel Pureology WEBSITE salonespacec.com salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 75

Events —

—

The global winner of the AllStar Challenge was Vitaliy Pimenov of Russia.

Miquel Garcia Cotado, global creative & artistic director for Revlon Professional, produced and hosted the big event. |

Details: For 10 years, Revlon Professional has inspired hairstylists from around the world to take their creativity to new heights with the brand’s annual Style Masters competition. American Crew also revealed the global winner of the brand’s annual All-Star Challenge competition. Along with the live stage competition and captivating presentations, Revlon Professional unveiled its new branding and tagline “Create Boldly. Live Boldly.” When & Where: June 4 in Barcelona, Spain 76 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

| More than 4,000 guests, including the brand’s top stylists, salons and distributors from 70 countries, were in attendance.

PHOTOS: REVLON PROFESSIONAL

Celebrating the 10th Anniversary of Revlon Professional’s Style Masters 2018 and American Crew’s All-Star Challenge

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

The Glam Squad, featuring Contessa 2018 winner JeanSebastien Chalut, took the stage to showcase a range of bold fringes and mulletinspired styles.

| American Crew announced its partnership with HarleyDavidson, with its Style for the Road campaign, shot by American Crew founder David Raccuglia.

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 77

Events —

—

Three North American teams, including Canada’s very own Northern Lights consisting of Wella top artists Dana Lyseng, Emily Murphy, Paul Nasrallah, Antonio Quintieri and Eryn Wall, presented a range of avantgarde and colourful looks to demonstrate The Art of Styling and The Art of Color.

Congratulations to Daniel Grieco (Color Vision) and Robert Rella (Creative Vision) from Salon Gaboa in Woodbridge, Ont., who will be representing Canada on the global stage! |

Details: With more than 3,400 entries this year, Wella’s North American TrendVision Awards (NATVA) was more inspirational than ever, with 37 finalists from Canada, the United States and Puerto Rico competing in a live competition at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. When & Where: July 16 in Las Vegas

78 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

PHOTOS: SALON STAFF, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, TORONTO BARBER AND BEAUTY SUPPLIES

Celebrating the Art of Hair at Wella’s North American TrendVision Awards!

Kevin Murphy Invites You to Come As You Are Details: Hosted by Toronto Barber and Beauty Supplies, the Kevin.Murphy Come as You Are event was an intimate evening for 125 hairstylists offering business advice and hair inspiration. Tim Abney, director of training and development for Kevin.Murphy, kicked off the evening, which featured live cutting, styling and colour demonstrations by the Kevin. Murphy team, including cutting and styling specialist Tim McClean, and global design director and Color.Me education director Kate Reid. Each demonstration created one of the looks from the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest collection, Future.Love. When & Where: June 10 in Toronto

T or

onto B arber

37 ce 19 and B eauty S uppl y S i n

salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 79

Events —

Celebrating the Canadian launch of CND Shellac Luxe Details: Canadian nail artists, salon owners and distributors gathered at Malaparte in Toronto to get a first look at CND’s Shellac Luxe, a new two-step gel polish system. CND founder Jan Arnold and brand ambassador Jessica Mulroney were also in attendance to explain the features and benefits, such as faster application, quick removal (in less than one minute) and no nail damage. When & Where: July 22-23 in Toronto

Details: More than 40 of L’Oréal Professionnel’s artists, educators and stylists from across Ontario united at The Symes in Toronto for a night of hair and beauty. Editorial hairstylist and L’Oréal Professionnel ambassador Matthew Collins was also on hand, giving special guests the “Instafamous” glam treatment. When & Where: June 7 in Toronto

80 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

PHOTOS: CND, L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL, REVLON PROFESSIONAL

Combining Beauty and Fashion at L’Oréal Professionnel’s 2018 Hair Fashion Night

New Chapter

Beauty veteran Rueben Carranza has been appointed as the president of Olaplex. With nearly 30 years of professional beauty industry experience, including as the former North American CEO for Wella Professionals and most recently as the president of R+Co, Carranza will now be working with founders Dean and Darcy Christel and the Olaplex team on future product launches and continuing to drive the company’s growth.

In Memoriam

It was recently announced that Celeb Luxury’s vicepresident and general manager Andrew Bartfield passed away. He is remembered for his kindness, generosity and dedication to the industry in his various roles with Artec, L’Oréal Professionnel and Celeb Luxury. “Andrew taught us that we can be thoughtful and caring in our strength and to be instruments of encouragement. A brilliant colourist and business leader, he partnered with a big heart,” Celeb Luxury said in a statement. He will be missed. Our thoughts and prayers are with his family, friends and colleagues.

Scoop —

Tiffanie Pitimada has been named the new chairperson for the Allied Beauty Association (ABA). Pitimada, who is the director of education for Revlon Professional, was formerly the ABA’s vice chairperson—a position that has now been filled by Vince Riverso of Venus Beauty Supplies. “This year is a turning point for the ABA and it’s an honour to have been appointed as chairperson,” says Pitimada. “I don’t take it lightly that it will be a challenging year but we need the engagement and commitment from the salon industry to move forward.”

Sa lon Ma ga z ine .ca

Role Change

A FRESH NEW LOOK AT YOUR FINGERTIPS SalonMag salonmagazine

Salon_Magazine SalonMagazine salonmagazine.ca / September 2018 81

Salon Stories —

Sharing the Passion From winning Contessa moments to finding artistic inspiration, hairstylists and salons continue to share their passion, spirit and heart for the beauty industry.

A L L T O G E T H E R N OW

M A KING CONNECTIONS

“As my fellow artists know, we work with our hands, and we create with our hands, but that isn’t the only thing being used. Our minds are number one! And our minds only work if we are being stimulated with creativity on a daily basis. Having a platform such as Salon that is continually inspiring us, encouraging us, promoting us and most of all uniting us, is just incredible. They help us maintain our craft! Thank you for everything you do and keeping us all together!” Cindy Duplantis, Redken artist and styling ambassador

82 salonmagazine.ca / September 2018

T E A M S PI R I T

“We made our first Contessa Canadian Salon Team category last year, which was a big year for us. For me, that’s one of the ones I’ve always wanted. I still want to win that one, and we’re working on it. I think competition motivates and inspires people. It’s really exciting. Even if I’m not shooting, it’s amazing just to watch. We love doing hair and enjoy it. That’s what it’s about.” Frank Calandrino co-owner, bob + paige

MEMORY LANE JOIN THE CELEBRATION BY SHARING YOUR FAVOURITE MEMORIES WITH US FROM THE PAST 25 YEARS. IF YOU HAVE ANY STORIES TO SHARE, PLEASE EMAIL ANNALEE@SALONMAGAZINE.CA. Created by Kaitlin Till-Landry from the Noun Project

PHOTOS: SALON MAGAZINE AND CONTESSA AWARDS ARCHIVES

“Winning [the Contessa Award for] Salon Interior Design [in 2009] was a huge thing for us. We’ve been a finalist a bunch of times, including last year for Canadian Salon Team. I think it’s something different than being Canadian Hairstylist of the Year—I think team really shows that we’re a team! We’re not just Frank and myself.” Violet Volovik co-owner, bob + paige

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