Salon Magazine, March 2017 by Salon Communications Inc.

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, Ont., M8Z 1K2

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WELCOME TO THE NEW KMS At KMS, our Style Community is the heart of our brand. We’re creatives, unified by the powerful language of style. We find inspiration in the world around us: in fashion, in art, and most importantly, in hair. We come together to create a worldwide network of style — to collaborate, learn and grow.

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march 17 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

Features 59

Making the Cut From ’80s rock star inspiration to textured looks, we take a closer look at what's trending in men’s hair.

Clean Sweep When it comes to grooming, hygiene is top of mind. We’ve put together a guide to ensure your workspace is up to standard.

How to Discuss Thinning Hair with Your Clients Thinning hair can often be a difficult subject to tackle with clients. We share some tips for helping clients (and you) feel more comfortable about starting the conversation.

76 NICOLA SMYTH HUMPHRISS, NICOLA SMYTH AWARD WINNING HAIR, U.K.

Collections Terri Kay and Andrea Giles; Paul Pereira; Edwin Johnston; Pete Goupil; Civello Salon & Spa; Nicola Smyth Humphriss; Daniel Benoit; Stéphane Scotto Di Cesare

Celebrating Fabio This past January the industry lost a beloved icon and friend: Fabio Sementilli. We take a retrospective look at his extraordinary career and share some of our favourite memories.

ON OUR COVER: Hair: Terri Kay and Andrea Giles, Mark Leeson, U.K. Makeup: Naoko Scintu Styling: Bernard Connolly Photo: Andrew O’Toole

m a r c h .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

Regulars 22

Editor’s Letter

Publisher’s Note

TERRI KAY AND ANDREA GILES, MARK LEESON, U.K.

SalonMagazine.ca This month at SalonMagazine.ca

Hairlines Refresh your styling arsenal with the latest products and styling tips, plus our nail polish picks of the season.

78 FINALIST, CONTESSA 28 QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR, DANIEL BENOIT

82 84

WINNER, CONTESSA 28 FAN FAVOURITE OF THE YEAR, PETE GOUPIL

m a r c h .1 7

Contessa Gallery Fabrizio Perciballi, Contessa 28 Finalist, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year

Profile A New Take on Tradition, Matty Conrad

It’s a Man’s World Canada’s barbering industry continues to grow from coast to coast. We take a closer look at the barbering business model for some tips on getting your business started on the right foot.

Create a Men’s Grooming Experience With many different takes on the barbering trend, we explore how a few of the country’s top barbershops have truly made their space their own.

Events + Scoop

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For BE FABULOUS™ technical support or to locate a distributor near you, email: Education_canada@revlon.com @RevlonProCanada #befabulous REVLONPROFESSIONAL.COM

EDITOR’S LETTER

The Meaning of Experience

hen I think of the places my dad got his hair cut, they were pretty basic. Whether it was a boutique salon or a barbershop, my dad was really going to his hairstylist

(or barber) as much for the cut as the experience of meeting up with friends who also happened to be there. Although our lives today are increasingly fast paced, getting a haircut requires you to slow down, and more guys are realizing the benefits of reconnecting with this simple yet essential indulgence. Whether you’re a hairstylist or a barber, you have the opportunity to connect with people, transform their look and give them a renewed sense of confidence. But as much as your clients have to

with FreePlay Clay Lightener

NEW! SOFT-SOLID CLAY TEXTURE STAYS PUT AND MOIST WHILE YOU PAINT YOUR WAY TO GORGEOUS

to be comfortable in your space. While salons have traditionally been a setting where women are more comfortable than men, as the men’s grooming market continues to boom, more salons are making the move to create space for their male clientele. From offering a private consultation area where guys can speak freely about hair colour options with their stylist to incorporating a more industrial and urban-inspired style in part of the salon, it’s an approach that can help cultivate your business. Even barbershops have been shifting their design in an effort to stay relevant to the men who live and work in their neighbourhoods. Along with design inspiration to create your own space for the boys, you’ll also find some incredible men’s collections in this issue, plus business tips and style advice that will help keep your clientele booming.

TRY FREEPLAY FOR FREE! Request your FREE SAMPLE* by sending us a Facebook message @JoicoCanada today!

*1 oz. FreePlay Clay Lightener packette. Offer valid until February 28th, 2017 while quantities last and available exclusively to professional stylists residing in Canada.

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

m a r c h .1 7

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

SUNKISSED PERFECTION

be comfortable with you as their chosen professional, they also have

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 26 issue 3

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Veronica Boodhan 416.869.3131 ext.119 veronica@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITOR

Erin Torrance 416.869.3131 ext.122 erin@salonmagazine.ca COPY EDITOR

Corinna Reeves

Extraordinary Encounters

GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca VICE-PRESIDENT STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS

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Wendy Lee Hynes 416.869.3131 ext.108 wendy@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER

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fter 15 years, I recently reconnected with Leland Hirsch,

OPERATIONS MANAGER

Karren Han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca

hair colour icon and founder of Celeb Luxury. Leland started

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Artec Systems Group in the ’90s, has worked with major

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colour manufacturers, owns one of New York City’s largest salons

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Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.114 nicole@salonmagazine.ca

and is the founder of Haircolor USA. He really became known as one

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

of the leading hair colourists in the world—the “colourist’s colourist.”

Tom Arkell 416.869.3131 ext.220 tom@salonmagazine.ca

Sitting with him as he spoke about his new product line and hair

news about Fabio Sementilli—it was gut-wrenching. I’ve known

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Fabio for more than 25 years, and he was an amazing guy. With his

A D D RE SS CH A NGE S

colour was mind-blowing. The next morning, I opened my email to read the heartbreaking

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warmth, generosity and love for the industry, it was hard not to love him from the get-go. When he made the big move to Los Angeles

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embraced it with verve. Although I saw less of him, any time spent with Fabio was always exceptional, and he made everyone feel this

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way. Our industry still collectively grieves the loss of Fabio. Over the next few days, I reflected on these two exceptional men

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who had intersected my life in one week and made such an immense

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dear friend, I would never see again. Both men made a tremendous contribution to the salon industry and did so for their pure love and passion for their craft. It makes me realize that we never know when we will meet the next Leland or Fabio, but we must be welcoming and encouraging to new talent at every opportunity. You can read more about Fabio on page 94 of this issue, and you’ll learn more about Leland in our April issue.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

m a r c h .1 7

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

impression on me. I had reconnected with one man, and another, a National Magazine Awards GOLD

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RED-CARPET RECAPS See highlights of the best looks to hit the red carpets during awards season, from the Golden Globes to the Academy Awards to the upcoming iHeartRadio Music Awards. Visit SalonMagazine.ca to see our roundups of what’s trending among celebs.

OUR “SO YOU THINK YOU CAN STYLE?” #MANCRUSHMONDAY Congratulations to Catherine Lefebvre of Salon de Coiffure Top Beauté in Drummondville, Quebec, whose winning style channelled some retro and modern vibes for a surprisingly experimental look. See how she created it at

THE ART OF THE PART Inspired by Toronto Men’s Fashion Week (TOM*), sponsored by American Crew, we’re diving into the trend for parts in

TOP HEARTS

men’s styles and showcasing new looks that are on #onpoint.

We celebrated the new year with 20K followers on Insta, and we’re still

Check out SalonMagazine.ca to see what we uncover.

going up! We’d love to see you as part of our creative community when we hit 50K! Follow us and be sure to tag us in your posts and videos— we want to see what you’re up to!

SalonMag

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Salon_Magazine

salonmagazine

See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections!

SalonMagazine

PHOTOS: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, CATHERINE LEFEBVRE, THINKSTOCK, INSTAGRAM

SalonMagazine.ca.

Salon Magazine

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Luxurious Locks Get younger-looking hair with the new Revlon Professional Be Fabulous in-salon and home care lineup. Formulated with the brand’s exclusive C.R.E.A.M. system, Be Fabulous has active ingredients that deliver

FULL FIX Get thicker-looking hair with the new Tea Tree Scalp Care Anti-Thinning Root Lift Foam from Paul Mitchell. Paul Mitchell has expanded its Tea Tree line with the addition of the new Scalp Care AntiThinning Root Lift Foam. The liquid-to-foam styler can be used on damp and dry hair, and works from the roots to lift hair with its exclusive Regeniplex blend of Kakadu plum, pea peptides, ginseng, turmeric and clover flower. Encourage your clients to maintain their fuller results at home with the Tea Tree PHOTOS: JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Scalp Care Anti-Thinning Root Lift Take Home Kit, which also contains the line’s Anti-Thinning Shampoo for increased volume and strength.

five key benefits— colour protection, repair, enhancement, anti-aging and moisture—to provide hair with essential care. With a total of 21 products (10 backbar and 11 home care), Be Fabulous includes an insalon four-step system for damaged hair and three-step systems for normal/thick hair and fine hair. The line also features home care products to maintain the results of less breakage and more moisture and body for more youthful-looking hair. And if that wasn’t “fabulous” enough, Revlon Professional has also teamed up with Academy Award-winning actress Halle Berry, who is the face of the new line.

GOODBYE TO DRY Say “so long” to dry hair with the L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Nutrifier home care line. The five-piece line contains a shampoo, conditioner, masque, blow dry cream and Dryness Defense (DD) balm and is silicone-free. It contains a blend of glycerol and coconut oil to provide dry hair with hydration and nourishment for softer, shinier results.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

m a r c h .1 7

HAIRLINES NEWS

EXQUISITE CARE

A Matter of Style

WELLA PROFESSIONALS EXPANDS HAIR OIL REFLECTIONS INTO HAIR CARE. Providing clients with a luxurious hair

KMS enters 2017 with a brand refresh and 11 new product innovations.

care experience, Wella Professionals has expanded its bestselling Hair Oil Reflections. The new Hair Oil Reflections

With an emphasis on style inspired by

collection features Luminous Reveal

international runways and streetwear, KMS’s

Shampoo, Luminous Instant Conditioner,

new brand identity, Style Matters, encourages

Luminous Reboost Mask, Light

everyone to use style as a visual language—

Luminous Reflective Oil and Luminous

creating their own style equation using

Smoothening Oil.

combinations of the brand’s Start, Style and Finish product lines. Repackaged with 11 new

FASHION WEEK APPROVED

product innovations, such as the Moist Repair

Eugene Souleiman, global creative

Cleansing Conditioner, Add Volume Liquid

director of care and styling for Wella

Dust, and Hairstay Working Hairspray, the

Professionals, says he wouldn’t

high performance product lines contain the

normally think of using oil products

new TRIfinity technology with AHA structure

backstage at Fashion Week. But Hair

complex, innovative shaping blends and flexible

Oil Reflections is the next generation

sealing compounds for targeting each of your

of lightweight hair care products, and

clients’ hair needs and providing long-lasting

provides hair with shine and softness

styles. Each product is multi-compatible and

without a greasy feel.

is best used in a three-step styling regimen. Style Matters transcends age, race and gender, emphasizing the brand’s message that the

Wella Professionals has also developed the

only thing that matters is style. KMS has also

Luminessence Spa Treatment, an in-salon

formed a style community, consisting of stylists

service that features Luminous Magnifying

from around the world who have collaborated

Elixir, the brand’s first rinse-off elixir that

together to share inspiration and curate trends

provides hair with added gloss and frizzfree results that last up to 72 hours.

Achieve natural-looking melted colour with the Schwarzkopf Professional ColorMelter. Now you can create dimensional colour-melted looks in a single stroke with Schwarzkopf Professional’s ColorMelter. Simply apply the colour mixtures into the melting palette, dip the sponge into the palette and slide it down the section of hair for seamless application. The patented palette and sponge, along with melting paper foils, make the colouring process easier and provide natural-looking results. ColorMelter was used to create the striking burgundy look seen in the brand’s Essential Looks autumn/ winter 2016 collection.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca for how-to videos featuring Schwarzkopf Professional’s ColorMelter.

m a r c h .1 7

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KMS, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

MIX AND MELT

that clients can create at home.

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

#myPRAVANAstory “My journey as a stylist has been so positively impacted since I started using PRAVANA. Not only has it given me a platform to unleash my artistry, but the savings have given me the opportunity to reach those in need by donating services to women who can’t afford it.”

- Presley Poe @presleypoe @stylistsempoweringwomen

What is your PRAVANA Story? Share with us! Hashtag #myPRAVANAstory for a chance to be featured!

AWARD-WINNING COLOR FAVORITE COLOR COMPANY CENTRAL BEAUTY SUPPLY LONDON ONTARIO • SOUTH ONTARIO www.centralbeautysupply.ca

AT THE GREATEST VALUE! ALLIANCE MY BEAUTY SUPPLY CO. BRITISH COLUMBIA • ALBERTA www.mbsccanada.com

UGAVA DISTRIBUTION INC. QUEBEC www.ugava.com

PASSION BEAUTY SUPPLY MANITOBA • ALBERTA SASKATCHEWAN • NW ONTARIO www.passionbeauty.ca

DEFINED BEAUTY SYSTEMS MISSISSAUGA •TORONTO CENTRAL ONTARIO • ONTARIO www.definedbeautysystems.com

HAIRLINES NEWS

THINK

green

Tinted Tresses Joico adds five new colours to its InstaTint lineup. When the brand first introduced us to the InstaTint range last year, we were instantly hooked. Now, the bright, bold range of colours is being complemented by the addition of five jewel tone shades: Light Purple, Periwinkle, Titanium, Hot Pink and Ruby Red. The temporary shimmer sprays are great for adding a quick pop of colour, allowing your clients to try on some hints of fantasy colour before fully taking the plunge. The colours are also great to have on-hand for the

BEAUTY MARK Fort Simpson, N.W.T.

Small Steps for Big Change

Green Circle Salons makes its way to the Northwest Territories.

upcoming season, bringing your clients’ festival hair inspo to life.

Beauty Mark in Fort Simpson, N.W.T. has become the first salon in Canada’s territories to join Green Circle Salons. The quaint, two-chair salon plans on recycling 95 per cent of its waste, with salon owner Troy Bellefontaine footing the bill to get his salon’s program up and running. “I’ve always been interested in environmental issues, and we try to do

REFRESHING REPAIR

environment,” he says. “Once we can give clients

Nourish hair with Kevin.Murphy Leave-In.Repair.

from the landfill, we will start implementing the

treatment for repairing and restoring damaged hair and reducing breakage. It’s the newest addition to Kevin.Murphy’s Repair.Me system. WHAT IT DOES Hairstylist and brand founder,

Kevin Murphy says Leave-In.Repair’s weightless formula causes no product buildup while nourishing hair from root to tip. In addition to moisturizing hair and reducing breakage, the product provides protection from heat styling and environmental damage. SECRET WEAPON Rose geranium, an

ingredient used in South African medicine that is known for its scalp-stabilizing properties to

the data on how much waste we have diverted fee.” Green Circle Salons adds the Environmental Contribution Initiative (ECI) fee to each client’s bill to support the cost of the salon’s eco-conscious changes. However Bellefontaine says that once the ECI fee is implemented, he plans to transport the recyclable waste himself to Edmonton (when he travels to pick up supplies every two to three months), which will reduce his clients’ ECI fees in half. Bellefontaine says he also plans on travelling to Yellowknife to encourage more salons to get on board with recycling. “It just takes one person to show people how easy it is,” he says. “When you look at the amount of hair and foil one salon puts out, it might seem insignificant, but there are a lot of issues that people may not think are important until you make them aware.”

regulate hair health.

m a r c h .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: JOICO,THINKSTOCK, KEVIN.MURPHY

WHAT IS IT? Leave-In.Repair is a leave-in

everything we can to make as little impact on the

WINNER 2016

NEW Shades!

Evoke the tropics. Soak in the hues. Also available in

CND, SHELLAC, VINYLUX and the

Weekly Polish

HAIRLINES NEWS

Go Long Detangle long locks with the Long Sexy Hair line by Sexy Hair. The five-piece collection has been designed specifically for longer hair, including extensions, and features the Color Safe Luxurious Shampoo and Conditioner, Luxe Detangler, Luxe Dry Shampoo and Luxe Blow Out Spray. The products are infused with moringa oil and biotin for detangling hair, adding moisture

MASH IT UP! Mix and match with the Keune Blend line of styling products. With 14 new blendable styling products, Keune Blend encourages you to mix it up and create your own product cocktails to achieve your signature look. The brand has also designed an exclusive Blend Bar, which features a fashionably functional, rolling product bar for easy in-salon use, along with custom DJ mixes and marketing materials to get your staff and clients embracing the fun, free-spirited line. Inspired by trends around

3 Tips from a Contessa Photographer Toronto-based photographer Doug McMillan has been photographing Contessa entries for more than 17 years. He shares his top three tips for putting together a winning collection.

1. PLAN AHEAD “Make mood boards and look at magazines but also have meetings with your photographer. Ask the photographer questions about pictures you like. Spend as much time as possible. Ideas change, so planning is key.”

2. BE IN THE KNOW “Research the category you’re entering so you know what

the world, Keune Blend also features

you need. Follow all the guidelines and look at past entries

eight international looks: Amazing

and winners because you can see the patterns and similarities

Amsterdam, Daring Detroit, Lovely

for why an entry won or made it to the finals. Use that

London, Philadelphia Perfect,

information to build your collection.”

Seductive Sao Paolo, Serene Stockholm, Sturdy Sydney and

3. MORE IS BETTER

Twisted Tokyo, created by Keune’s

“Sometimes stylists get one look in their heads, and on the

team of educators. The brand is

day of the shoot the hair isn’t looking the way they want so

taking Blend on the road with a

they get stuck. Have more looks and models than you need—

North American education tour,

that way you’ll have the choice to enter more categories or

with stops in Vancouver, Edmonton

replace certain looks if you don’t feel they are strong.”

and Calgary in March and April.

m a r c h .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SEXY HAIR; CONTESSA PHOTO: FINALIST, CONTESSA 28 AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR, SANDRO ZAMPARINI,THE JOINT SALON,TORONTO, MAKEUP: MINNA LOPONEN, STYLING: HOLLY HOWITT, PHOTO: DOUG MCMILLAN; KEUNE

and shine and preventing dryness, dullness and damage.

NEW

FULLER HAIR BEGINS WITH A BOOST Build volume and texture with a new liquid-to-foam styler that adds bulk for fuller, thicker-looking hair. Features exclusive Regeniplex® blend with Kakadu plum, pea peptides, clover flower, turmeric and ginseng. Follow us @TeaTreeHairCare and paulmitchellpro.com. To carry Tea Tree in your salon, contact your authorized John Paul Mitchell Systems® Distributor.

HAIRLINES NEWS

dynamic COLOUR

Aloxxi’s Andiamo delivers permanent colour in a flash. For your busy, on-the-go

TO THE RESCUE! Eufora Hero for Men gets a makeover with the addition of three new products. The brand’s men’s line has been revamped with a new, modern look and streamlined into three categories: Cleanse & Treat, Shave & Smooth and Style. New to Shave & Smooth is the Moisture Lotion: Aloe vera, amino acids and a blend of shea butter and essential oils and extracts

clients, Aloxxi has released its

provide moisture and rejuvenation, while vitamin E provides the skin

Andiamo Express Permanent

with antioxidant benefits to protect skin against environmental damage.

Colour. In just 10 minutes, hair

The Style line has added Conditioning Control, an anti-frizz leave-in spray

can be transformed into vibrant

that contains aloe vera, licorice root extract and 5-Alpha Avocuta from

colour with complete grey

avocado pear that prevents hair from appearing greasy, and prevents

coverage. Andiamo’s turbo dye

redness and itchiness. The new Styling Mud delivers a strong yet flexible

technology provides increased

hold with medium shine.

pigment concentration for speedier results, and

“You can mix and match the products. The products

the calibrated dye coupler

work into the hair to create a natural look. Plus,

manages the oxidation pace

they don’t create any flakiness the next day. My

for consistency and optimal

favourite is the Molding Paste, but the new Styling

results. The formula also

Mud is also turning out to be one of my faves.”

contains illipe butter, providing

— LUKA PAPRICA, BARBER AT

hair with nourishment, shine

SALON DISALVO IN HAMILTON,

and manageability, allowing you

ONT., AND 2016 WINNER OF THE

to achieve up to four levels of

EUFORA STYLIST OF THE YEAR FOR

lift with ease.

MEN’S TREND AWARD

TOOLBOX

Durable AC motor lasts up to 1,500 hours

“Hairdryers are not only for blowouts they are for men, too. This hairdryer delivers airflow that is consistent in strength and temperature. It feels good on the face for dedicated beard and moustache drying without getting too hot, while the two speeds and three heat settings can coif a pompadour in no time. It gives you all the

Ergonomic grip for comfort

heat without the damage.” — ANDREA SAMPSON, DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION FOR DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL

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Two specialized snapon nozzles designed for beard, moustache and hair drying

High temperature of 278.6°F Two speeds and three heat settings, with a cool shot button

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: ALOXXI, EUFORA, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL

Gamma Più Barber Hairdryer

Double wave heating element with special insulation on barrel for easy handling

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HAIRLINES NEWS

THE TALENTED MR. PARK

Get Ready for the Toronto ABA

Thanks to Guy Tang and Ted Gibson using the brand’s brushes and combs on-stage, Y.S. Park Professional tools and accessories have sparked a veritable cult following.

Seminars, shows and a special guest: Confessions of a Hairstylist, Jenny Strebe! On March 26 and 27, beauty professionals from across Canada will be attending the Toronto ABA show for the latest in beauty trends and techniques. Held at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, the show will feature 11 educational stages, with a range of seminars and competitions, including Battle of the Barber. Plus, Instagram superstar Jenny Strebe, also known as Confessions of a Hairstylist, will be live on the main stage to

Designed for hairstylists’

unveil her Wanderess collection and teach a live class, followed

techniques and comfort,

by a book signing of her popular book,

the line was created by

100 Perfect Hair Days.

Young Soo Park, a hairstylist from Tokyo who wanted combs that would help improve his skills and make

British Invasion The British Barbers’ Association launches its men’s barbering line.

him more efficient behind the chair. “As a starting point, I thought of the style I was looking to achieve and then I designed a tool that would be perfect to create it,” explains Park. At the Park Academy in Tokyo, an education

Known for delivering training and education, the British Barbers

and will be offered internationally. Canadians can

Association has developed a professional men’s grooming line.

meet Park at the Toronto ABA on March 26 and

Featuring 12 grooming essentials, this men’s line offers high-

27. “I am excited that Canada is my next stop

performance products that combine finishing tools for the men’s

as we have great support from our exclusive

hairstyling professional, such as pomade, gel and wax, with accessible

Canadian importer, Backstage Commerce,

home care products that your clients will love. In addition to hairstyling,

as well as our new Ontario distributor, Venus

the line features a range of beard and skin care products.

Beauty Supplies,” says Park.

PERFECT MATCH The collaboration between Farouk Systems and Esquire’s Grooming continues to be a win-win. Since launching last year, the Esquire Ultimate Grooming Collection has been a hit

m a r c h .1 7

with hairstylists and barbers.

and styling tools. Farouk Shami,

Developed in collaboration with

founder and chairman of Farouk

Farouk Systems, the line is an

Systems, says the partnership

extension of Esquire’s legacy

allows hairstylists and barbers

as a leader in men’s luxury and

to provide a unique barbering

style and features a range of

experience with the line’s

sulfate-, paraben- and gluten-free

exclusive products and imagery.

cleansing and styling products

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: BRITISH BARBERS’ ASSOCIATION, Y.S. PARK PROFESSIONAL, ESQUIRE GROOMING

program that complements the line is available

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HAIRLINES TREND REPORT

FROM RUNWAY TO REALITY For spring/summer 2017, we’re seeing everything from natural texture and glamorous curls to braided updos and amplified beach hair. For nails, bold colours and patterns are becoming all the more wearable. Here are some of our favourites, with hero products for each.

THE TREND: GIRLIE CURLS THE FIX: MOROCCANOIL CURL RE-ENERGIZING SPRAY Feminine curls were seen on the runways at New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Moroccanoil created a series of romantic looks using the brand’s new Curl ReEnergizing Spray. For Zac Posen, hairstylist Odile Gilbert used the spray to activate curls before diffusing and pinning hair back for a feminine half-up, half-down look, while Moroccanoil global creative director Antonio Corral Calero applied it to the looks at Marchesa to add a boost of moisture to curls, which were pinned off the face for a more glamorous effect.

Taking the effortless trend up a notch, Anthony Cole, international artist for Sebastian Professional, played with texture at Christian Siriano’s NYFW show. Straight on top with waves on the ends, the look was meant to resemble hair that’s just been taken out of a braid. Complementing Siriano’s vintage-inspired Jackie-O collection, the refreshing take on a retro look is easy to achieve, with Cole using Sebastian Professional Shine Define for a more polished finish.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: MOROCCANOIL, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

THE TREND: NEW WAVE THE FIX: SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL SHINE DEFINE

HAIRLINES TREND REPORT

THE TREND: BRAIDED TOPKNOTS THE FIX: REDKEN BRAID AID 03 BRAID DEFINING LOTION Braids are here to stay. At Dior’s Paris Fashion Week show, Guido Palau, global creative director for Redken, added braids to the back of a topknot using Redken Braid Aid 03 Braid Defining Lotion for smoothness and

THE TREND: SPORTY CHIC THE FIX: UNITE ELEVATE MOUSSE With last year’s “athleisure” trend for men, we saw a twist on the casual look for women at the Byblos show during Milan Fashion Week. Nick Irwin, global brand ambassador for Unite, created effortless youthful looks reminiscent of post-workout hair. Unite Elevate Mousse was used to prep the hair before blow-drying

grip. The braided details added some edge to the topknot, which complemented the modern femininity vibe of the show and was a fun twist on the classic updo.

THE TREND: MANE MAN THE FIX: AMERICAN CREW BOOST POWDER AND MEDIUM HOLD SPRAY GEL It’s official: Longer hair is one of the leading men’s trends for 2017. American Crew showcased some longer looks at Toronto Men’s Fashion Week (TOM*). Matula Liounis and Pete Goupil, All-Star educators for American Crew, recreated looks from the brand’s new Master of Men’s Grooming program and used American Crew Boost Powder to add volume to the roots and Medium Hold Spray Gel for flexible control.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: UNITE, REDKEN CANADA, AMERICAN CREW

to enhance texture for a done/undone look.

COLLECTION

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HAIRLINES TREND REPORT

THE TREND: PALM READER THE FIX: CND At the Alice + Olivia show, CND took the classic French mani to another level with a Palm French look featuring dusty pink with slivers of deep green palm frond accent to resemble palm leaves. Using colours from the CND Vinylux Summer 2017 collection, you can recreate the look using the brand’s Salmon Run and Art Basil. This trend is perfect for clients who may be wary of trying nail art, while giving them just enough flair to stand out this season.

THE TREND: POPS OF PATTERN THE FIX: MORGAN TAYLOR AND OPI This season is all about taking risks with colour. We saw bright asymmetrical looks from Morgan Taylor at Tanya Taylor and whimsical geometric prints from OPI at Jeremy Scott and Creatures of Comfort. Pair two or three different shades of contrasting colours for a fun look that your

THE TREND: OMBRÉ ALL DAY THE FIX: ESSIE Ombré nails are quickly becoming a mani musthave. At Michael Costello’s NYFW show, Essie’s global lead educator, Rita Remark, paired Essie’s Good as Gold with Sole Mate to create a soft gold-plum ombré. The nails complemented Costello’s collection, which explored the light and dark sides of femininity, and are perfect for transitioning from season to season.

Visit SalonMagazine.ca for more Fashion Week hair and nail trends.

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: CND CANADA, OPI, MORGAN TAYLOR, ESSIE

clients will be daring to try.

HAIRLINES NAILS

ESSIE Take nails on a colourful road trip with Essie’s spring 2017 collection, with shades like sapphired indigo All the Wave and sun-kissed coral mango Excuse Me, Sur.

Got the Blues

ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN Distress to impress this season with Artistic Nail Design’s Urban Distressed collection, with statement-making shades, like peachy pink pearl Glammed Up Grunge and light blue crème Denimist.

Belle of the Ball Morgan Taylor and Gelish waltz into spring with the Beauty and the Beast collection.

CHINA GLAZE Fling into spring with the latest collection from China Glaze, featuring the blue shimmer Crushin’ on Blue and coral crème I Just Cant-aloupe.

In celebration of the live-action release of the Disney classic Beauty and the Beast, Morgan Taylor and Gelish have released of seven whimsical

CND Achieve future-forward looks with high-octane shades, such as Blue Eyeshadow and Video Violet, from CND’s New Wave collection.

Time to Play!

crème Be Our Guest and

Experiment with the bright shades in the new Playland collection from CND Creative Play.

collaborating with Disney

Time to add a little “Amusemint” to your nail routine with CND Creative Play’s latest springtime shades. With eight shades to choose from, including cool blue Aquaslide and rose-gold glitter Look No BIO SCULPTURE GEL

Hands, the fun colours are sure to bring out your

There’s beauty in chaos, especially when it comes to Bio Sculpture Gel’s latest collection, Chaotic Wonderland. Vibrant shades like turquoise New Glam add a bold pop to your spring nail looks.

clients’ inner wild child. To really get your creative

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juices flowing, try your hand at some of CND’s nail tutorials, which are sure to provide some great nail inspo for your social media posts.

shades, such as pink baby blue crème Gaston And On and On. Since in 2015 for the live-action film release of Cinderella, Danny Haile, CEO and founder of Morgan Taylor Lacquer, says it’s an honour to collaborate with Disney again and that the collection’s colours were developed to reflect the beauty from within.

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a limited-edition collection

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HAIRLINES NAILS

Man Maintenance Tips for helping men achieve and maintain healthy nails.

hether it’s for a simple mani or a relaxing

recommends OPI’s Nail Envy Matte Nail Strengthener,

pedi, more and more men are realizing the

which helps protect weak, damaged nails. “It goes on

benefits of nail services. We spoke to some

matte and offers nail-hardening benefits.”

experts for tips on man-friendly nail services and ways to increase your male clientele. “Nail services are on the rise for men, especially as we see more male-specific salons popping up,” says Jennifer Mather, business development manager for CND. “Men are really paying more attention to

GIVE HIM SPACE Regardless of whether your salon is ultra-feminine or gender neutral, it’s important to create an inviting space. “It starts from when he walks into the salon, and it really depends on the client” says Smith. For

themselves now.”

example, having a TV with a sports game on may help

KEEP IT SIMPLE

very neutral is important, especially if it’s a new

When it comes to nail services for men, nail technicians

customer,” adds Mather. “Men often prefer to be

shouldn't overthink it. “There’s a bit of a difference in

handed an iPad or a men’s magazine.”

him feel more at ease. “Keeping the conversation

shaping the nails,” says Mather. “I would recommend

Another way of welcoming men into the salon is

keeping the scent unisex or mildly scented.” Mather

with the service menu. “Offer a MAN-icure listed on the

recommends CND Spa Bright Citron Scrub, which

menu to make it different, or include sports pedicures or

contains an exfoliating blend of sea salt, kaffir lime and

workday pedicures,” says Mather. “Many salon and spa

honey. “Citrus is a universal scent that makes everybody

services are geared toward pampering, but for men it's

feel invigorated and energized,” she says. For a more

often about functionality.”

“Having a great salon advocate or someone who frequents regularly who posts on social media can be effective if you’re looking to build a male clientele,”

intensive moisturizing treatment, Mather suggests CND

SPREAD THE WORD

Spa Cucumber Heel Therapy. “It’s specifically made for

Social media can be a powerful resource to help grow

helping dry heels, but it can also be used on elbows and

your clientele. “Having clients who frequent regularly

hands. It is conditioning and moisturizing and keeps the

and post on social media can be effective if you’re

skin in great shape,” she says. “Cucumber is a fragrance

looking to build a male clientele,” says Mather, who

that's as unisex as it gets.”

also recommends hosting man-friendly themed events.

While many men may opt for the no-polish option,

“Host a gentlemen’s event—that way, if there are men

Brennae Smith, an OPI educator from Lethbridge,

who may be feeling a little uncomfortable, they know

Alta., says nail consultations are the best way to find

that there will be all guys. There are lots of options and

out more about their preferences. “Find out how to

great ideas that can be shared on social media.”

tailor the service to that particular person during the

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE:THINKSTOCK, OPI, CND CANADA

— JENNIFER MATHER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER FOR CND

“It’s about being able to pitch a service and make it

consultation,” says Smith. “For example, if he wants a

a need; why it’s important to have good-looking hands

very clean, manicured look, you could use OPI’s Matte

and nails, and why it’s important to keep your feet in

Top Coat, which gives nail protection if they are in an

great shape,” adds Mather. “Nail services are more

industry that may cause staining, such as hairstyling.”

accessible for men, and nothing is better than a well-

For clients who may be more interested in preserving

groomed man.”

the health of their nails rather than asthetics, Smith

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SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

HAIRLINES COLOUR

GRAPHIC EVOLUTION Graffiti hair has become one of the most versatile colour options. We spoke with the colour experts about techniques and products that will help you master the look.

raffiti has been trending on social media, with a range of looks that boldly embrace colours and patterns to more subtle interpretations. “It’s

really interesting because you can create texture, toneon-tone colour or an intermixing of different colours,” says Rossa Jurenas, North American colour director for Schwarzkopf Professional. “It’s more of an art form on hair; like an artist using hair as a blank canvas.”

WHERE IT ALL BEGAN “The industry has changed a lot; people are opting to do more fun things to their hair than they were years ago,” says Sue Pemberton, artistic director for Sue Pemberton Education & Private Studio Salon. “Graffiti is more of a statement because it’s not so uniform or formal. You put tattoos on your body, so why can’t you tattoo your hair?” Just like its name, graffiti is meant to create a look that’s unique, using patterns, designs and an eclectic While stencils may seem like a fail-safe solution, Lalonde says it’s still important

express our creativity,” says Claudelle Lalonde, artistic

to plan out the look. “It’s important to know the general look you want to create,

educator for Pravana. “There are never two identical

with room to get artistic in the process,” she says. “This will give you an idea of

graffiti hair looks; they can be similar, but stylists can

what colours are going to complement one another and how they will process over

customize their looks by drawing on unique inspiration,

prelightened hair.” Lalonde recommends using Pravana’s Vivids Locked-In shades

like an image, structure or pattern. It’s become popular

because “they don’t bleed into one another or into surrounding lightened hair to

because of the individuality and creativity that go into it.”

ensure cleaner lines.”

STENCILLING VERSUS FREEHAND Stencilling has had a significant role in the trend, helping to add statement-making designs to the looks while providing a guideline for easier application. Hair chalk and colour sprays, such as Joico InstaTint Temporary Color Shimmer

“The world is your oyster. If you create a shape, what you do with that shape is entirely up to you. You can colour it all one solid colour or make it stripy or whatever you want. It’s all up to your artistic interpretation.”

Spray and Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe Instant Blush

– SUE PEMBERTON, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR SUE

Sprays, can be used with or without stencils to add a quick

PEMBERTON EDUCATION & PRIVATE STUDIO SALON

burst of colour to the look. “If it’s a wet spray, you have to be very gentle because it’s liquid,” explains Jurenas. “It’s

For a daring yet understated look, freehand techniques can be used to create graffiti-

important to blow-dry it in. Unless it’s for a shoot, you have

inspired looks, combining different shades for an artistic fusion of colour. “You put three

to make sure the hair falls where it naturally wants to fall

or four colours in a bowl and apply onto the hair shaft. You’re taking those colours and

or where the client will blow-dry it, so you can make sure

making graffiti,” says David Vendittelli, global master colourist for Goldwell and co-owner

the artwork is shown. The sprays only last for a couple of

of Industry Hair & Esthetics in St. Catharines, Ont., who recommends using a colour line

washes, but it’s easy to do and it looks really cool.”

like Goldwell’s Elumen, which is ammonia- and oxidant-free permanent colour that can

m a r c h .1 7

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTO: HAIR: JOSEPH I'ANSON & LISA GRAHAM, MAKEUP: NAOKO SCINTU; STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY; PHOTO: ANDREW O'TOOLE; HAIR: KEN PICTON ART TEAM; MAKEUP: NAOKO SCINTU; STYLING:THEA LEWIS YATES; PHOTO: ANDREW O'TOOLE

combination of colours. “Graffiti is another way to

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

FOR MEN “Colour is coming back with male clients. It’s not just a little and keeping it natural. You’re seeing men go very blonde with their hair. If they are going to push it that far, then why not a little bit of hair graffiti? With undercuts and shaved looks, use more colour on top for a fun change.” – ROSSA JURENAS, NORTH AMERICAN COLOUR DIRECTOR FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

“You can make your lines with a trimmer and the lines create spaces. If there’s a line that creates a part, the bottom of it can be one shade and the top of it can be another shade.” – DAVID VENDITTELLI, GOLDWELL GLOBAL MASTER COLOURIST FOR GOLDWELL AND CO-OWNER OF INDUSTRY HAIR & ESTHETICS IN ST. CATHARINES, ONT.

“Look at what they’re doing in barbering with graffiti and undercutting. A lot of soccer players are doing it, with razors or stencils. It’s very artistic.” – SUE PEMBERTON, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR SUE PEMBERTON EDUCATION & PRIVATE STUDIO SALON

“There is really no limitation for men embracing graffiti. They just have to be willing to try it. The look can be done on long or short hair. Just keep in mind that you’ll have to adapt the look based on the shape of the head and how much the client wants it to show.” – CLAUDELLE LALONDE, ARTISTIC EDUCATOR FOR PRAVANA

be combined in the same bowl. “It’s essential to understand the colour

GETTING CLIENTS ON BOARD

wheel and the laws of colour. If you want vibrant tones, you don’t want

While graffiti isn’t going to be for everyone, it can be a fun trend for your

to mix colours that are going to give you brown.”

clients to explore, so it’s important to encourage those who are open to it

“When you’re taking a section of hair, you don’t want it to be too

to try something new and fresh. “Show them samples and swatches so

thick because you want the colour to be able to penetrate through

they understand that it can be pretty cool without being extreme,” says

the whole section,” adds Vendittelli. “You have to have a good amount

Vendittelli. “It’s about the way we word it and introduce it to a client that

of colour on that brush, so that when you’re sliding it down the hair

will really help them open their eyes to it. Sometimes trends can look scary

shaft it’s getting all the colour. At the same time, it’s going to look

because they can look extreme, but it’s our job to recommend and interpret

different throughout that section because there are a few different

them in a way that suits the client.”

colours. Say you have a red beside a blue. As they meet each other

“The best way to look at it is that it’s not permanent,” says Jurenas. “For

you’re going to get a bit of purple that melts into the rest of the blue.

many years, the trends have kept it simple. But now, colour is back and

That’s the beauty of graffiti.”

getting into a bit more detail. You can change it up and try different things.”

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

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I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H S A LO N M AG A Z I N E

FACE OFF

ELEVATE

Are we more critical of men who want to freshen up their face? BY HINA P. ANSARI

e all want to look our best—it’s natural. Whether it’s sprucing up our wardrobe, rejigging a beauty treatment or embracing a new fitness regimen, we do it for ourselves, for our boss, for our boyfriend (don’t deny it, we all have) or for that dream job that we have firmly placed on our vision boards.

The same goes for freshening up our looks. With the technological advancements in the enhancement arena, giving your face an upgrade can be done as quickly as a lunch break. You can go for quick hits of Botox here and some fillers there, or just go all in and under the knife for in-depth rejuvenation followed by a medi-spa recovery time. It’s all good. It’s available to us and nowadays it’s really no big deal. Women have dominated this specific realm of cosmetic enhancements. For years, we have scrutinized our favourite starlets, wondering if their ageless looks are due to good genes, a good juicing routine or a good doctor. From the soccer mom to the society doyenne, exploring ways to get a “lift” when the time is right is seen as the suitable entry into the next chapter of one’s life. For the many who have had excellent work done, undetectable without the aid of a crack forensics team, there are those whose work is clearly evident. Whether it’s due to an overeager doctor or the patient’s sheer blindness to the (numerous) procedures she has done, we’ve seen it all: the bee-sting lips, the frozen eyebrows and the too-taut hairline. And when they do make our heads turn, there’s the initial shock and awe moment: “Why did she do that?” This is predictably followed by hesitating acceptance. Just as quickly as it appears on our radar, it disappears as we swipe on to the next page, click on to the next link, scan the next Facebook update or read the next email.

THE MANLY DOUBLE STANDARD

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

Then it happens. Well, to me at least. I spotted Mickey Rourke promote his film Sin City 2 on The Tonight Show With Jimmy Fallon, I couldn’t quite grasp what was happening to his face. It wasn’t The Wrestler face that I had become accustomed to (and yes that too, took a while to get used to since I’m from the 9 1/2 Weeks generation); there was something more and I couldn’t shake it. Then, while watching The Expendables 2, the same uneasy feeling washed over me when I saw the absence of ruggedness from Chuck Norris’ visage. All I saw behind his beard was a very smooth face. The shock and awe stayed. I kept thinking about these gents’ faces long after the credits rolled. And then there’s Bruce Jenner. I’ll leave that with you to ponder. That got me thinking: Could it be that I am more critical when I see men revitalizing their looks? Were they not worthy of somewhat of a pass, the same pass I generously give to their on-screen female counterparts? Or to women in general? I needed hard stats to help me digest.

THE HARD DATA First of all, it’s the numbers. According to plastic surgeon Dr. Kunaal Jindal, MD, FRCSC, from Toronto’s Edelstein Cosmetic, men “count for 10 per cent” of overall patients elevatemagazine.com

Elevate Magazine

PSST, HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT… When you’re styling clients’ hair, we all know the conversation can get pretty personal, so the next time your clients complain about their latest beauty issue (maybe sagging jowls or forehead lines), tell them to pick up Elevate Magazine for cosmetic and anti-aging solutions.

going for cosmetic surgery. Because of the sheer fact that very few men do it, the obvious worked-on faces stand out more. To Dr. Jindal, the critical eye does make sense as “the numbers are low” for men who opt for such procedures. However, he quickly pointed out that in the past seven to eight years, there has been a jaw-dropping “200 per cent” increase in men wanting enhancements. Yes, that’s 200 per cent. The reasons for men wanting to cosmetically go there? They also feel the pressure to look good in a visually driven society. Sound familiar? Dr. Julie Kolzet, PhD, a Manhattan-based psychologist who works with individuals and groups, hypothesizes the increase of men’s focused media campaigns as one of the sources of the currently changing ideals of male beauty, a societal pressure that has historically been reserved for women.

GETTING UNDER THE SKIN And what are they getting done exactly? According to Dr. Jindal, men in their 30s desire a more chiselled look, electing for rhinoplasty and Botox procedures, while those in their 40s and 50s look to match their exterior with their inner vitality with in-depth eyelid work. “Mature men, generally speaking, want to be competitive in a tough job market. They want to [advance] up the corporate ladder. They feel young and confident, but look tired.” And the first sign of aging begins around the eyes. See? Those eye creams are there for a reason. The body issue is a problem for both men and women. Dr. Kolzet emphasizes that the idea of a stigma may vary from one metropolis to the next, noting that the rate of acceptance in Manhattan may be higher than, say, in rural areas. She also feels that the underlying root of wanting to rejuvenate should not be ignored. “I think we need to look at the bigger picture,” she notes. “How does society think on the whole? How has the culture changed? Are we doing enough to talk about body image and external appearance for men? Oftentimes, we haven’t because a lot of the focus has been on women.” The reasons why men and women opt for enhancements will be reserved for a proper in-depth discussion. In the meantime, I will take off my judgment lenses the minute a more “modern” face appears on the screen, on the sidewalk or on my Twitter feed, regardless of sex or position. After all, men, too, deserve the right to be able to freshen themselves up as well. However, as Dr. Jindal concludes, the stigma is still there as evidenced by the 10 per cent statistic “showing that men are not ready to have work done or that there’s more of a societal stigma. On the whole, society still has far to go [with respect to] men’s cosmetic surgery acceptance.”

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT, ANTI-AGING AND WELLNESS TIPS AT ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

@elevatecanada

@ElevateMagazine

HAIRLINES NEWS 1. CUT THE CORD Create versatile looks with Wahl Professional’s BravMini+ cordless rechargeable trimmer, which features a 100-minute run time and detailed stainless steel blade for mastering even the most precise details. wahlpro.com 2. BAR NONE Cleanse and exfoliate skin with V76’s Detox Bar Soap, a natural body bar blended with mineral clay and oat botanicals. v76.com

EDITOR’S PICKS

3. CRAFT YOUR COIF Shape and sculpt facial hair with ease with TIGI Bed Head for Men Mo Rider Moustache Crafter, with beeswax, and coconut oil to provide hold while preventing dry skin. bedhead.com

Gear up with our top picks in men’s grooming.

4. FIRM FINISH The matte paste Deconstructor from label.men lives up to its name. Containing carrot root, the paste creates textured, piecey looks and provides firm yet natural-looking hold. labelm.com 5. SCALP REPAIR The Restorative Scalp Serum from éprouvage contains Redensyl and progressive plant cells, which nourish the scalp from the inside out for thicker, fuller hair. eprouvage.com 6. SHAVE AND SPLASH Moisturize and soothe freshly shaved skin with the blend of all-natural ingredients in Les Industries Groom’s Aftershave Splash. lesindustriesgroom.com 7. BEARD GEAR American Crew’s lightweight Beard Serum conditions beards while keeping hair soft, shiny and well groomed. americancrew.com

1. 6.

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTO: PAUL C

5. 4.

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Introducing the newest grooming product from American Crew, Beard Serum. Help your clients complete their grooming routine with this conditioning oil blend developed to keep beards soft, shiny and smooth.

AMERICANCREW.COM @AMERICANCREWCANAdA AMERICANCREWCANAdA

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Short cuts are out, hair is getting longer and the rock star styles of the ’80s might actually be back in full force. We talked to men’s cutting and styling pros from across the nation to find out where men’s looks will go in 2017. By Anna Lee Boschetto

PHOTO: HAIR: JONATHAN ANDREW, JAMIE STEVENS HAIR, U.K.; STYLING: JAMIE STEVENS; PHOTOS: JENS WIKHOLM

MAKING THE

CUT

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“Hairstylists are experts with interior work as much as perimeter. With longer cuts coming back for men, we’ll likely see more men coming back to hairstylists.” –EDWIN JOHNSTON, OWNER OF CUTTING ROOM CREATIVE IN NANAIMO, B.C. AND GLOBAL

The ’80s Are Back

getting your clients to make a change is more about education, along

It’s hard to believe that a men’s hairstylist would say this, but according

with using the right products. “Product knowledge will give them the

to Pete Goupil, All-Star educator for American Crew, he (along with many

versatility they need, whether they want a sleeker look for work or a

other stylists) will be putting down their clippers, at least for the next little

grungier one for weekends.”

while. “Short hair will be classic, but we will see longer styles. We are

But it’s not only in metropolitan centres where men are becoming

revisiting the ’80s for sure.” Goupil says the styles in fashion, particularly

a bit more discerning about their looks. Even in Nanaimo, B.C., men

denim, have the punk rock, lived-in feel of the late-’80s, which will

are looking to stay ahead of the trends, says Edwin Johnston, owner

translate to hairstyles.

of Cutting Room Creative and global artistic director for KMS. “Even

Paul Pereira agrees with Goupil. This two-time North American

here, we see more street styles influencing hair, and fashion is still a

Hairstyling Awards-winning men’s hairstylist and Schwarzkopf

big indicator, too,” explains Johnston. “In the ’80s, we had the punk

Professional Essential Looks Artist sees ’80s rock star glam being a

movement, and we’re definitely seeing a departure from the fades and

leading trend that will happen in a big way. “We’re going to see colour

extremely defined cuts to more unstructured ones.”

coming into the hair, too, with really vibrant shades coming into play thanks to products like Schwarzkopf Professional’s ColorMelter making

Making Waves

them more readily attainable for clients.”

Although finger waves are a classic look that has experienced resurgence

Stay a Cut Above

style to achieve. When it comes to texture, Pereira says the look is much

in men’s hairstyling over the past few years, it’s also a pretty precise

“Fades are bulky in the temple area,” explains Goupil. “We are removing

more relaxed and easier to achieve, provided that you’re enhancing their

graduation on the sides and back, which takes out that bulk and allows

natural texture. “For guys with a lot of wave to their hair, creating a cut

you to give a square shape instead of a taper.” Goupil also says that

that works with their natural texture means that clients will be able to

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PHOTO: HAIR: JONATHAN ANDREW, JAMIE STEVENS HAIR, U.K.; STYLING: JAMIE STEVENS; PHOTOS: JENS WIKHOLM; AMERICAN CREW, KMS, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR KMS

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MEN’S ESSENTIA L S Styling products are as essential to helping your clients achieve their look as retail is to your salon business. “Men are a big part of the retail world, and there’s still room to grow,” says Johnston. And because men tend to be loyal to a product recommended by a pro, you’ve got a good opportunity to close a sale before they leave your salon.

KMS HAIRPLAY SEA SALT SPRAY

“With KMS HairPlay Sea Salt Spray, you usually think of beachy waves. But you can AMERICAN CREW HEAVY HOLD POMADE ▲

also use the salt spray

“American Crew has bold products,

to tame the style and

including creams and sprays, that are

finish with the Clay

specifically for longer hair. Right now, I love

Creme to hold the style

the Heavy Hold Pomade. Working with it in

up all day or night.”

an unconventional way, I like to scrunch the

–Edwin Johnston,

hair to create styles.” –Pete Goupil,

global artistic

All-Star educator for American Crew

director for KMS

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL MIGHTY MATTE PASTE

“For finishing most styles, using a wax or paste like Schwarzkopf Professional’s Mighty Matte works well, and a little goes a long way.” –Paul Pereira, Essential Looks Artist for Schwarzkopf Professional

achieve the hairstyle at home, and that makes a big difference in building

their hair. “Right now, every style is back off the face,” says Johnston.

loyalty,” says Pereira. In short, if you can make them walk out of your

“Cuts will come forward, be softer at the edge and have more texture

salon looking their best and they can achieve a similar hairstyle at home

rather than the groomed-to-perfection pompadour we’ve been seeing.”

between appointments, they’ll be back.

Long and Loose

Making a Disconnection When it comes to refreshing your cutting craft, Goupil takes a back-to-

Both Goupil and Pereira agree that longer hair is back in a big way. For

basics approach—one that’s at the heart of American Crew’s Master

clients who want to go long, well planned out appointments are key to

of Men’s Grooming program. “It’s hairstylist- and client-friendly,” says

having enough hair to work with. “When a client is used to coming in

Goupil. “With 10 different haircuts that combine three different cutting

every three weeks, getting him to extend the time frame to six weeks

methods and transitions, it makes creating a look your client wants very

can seem like a long time,” says Goupil. “But my clients have trust in

accessible.” While his personal hairstyle preference lends itself to British

me, and I’m honest with them in that I need enough growth to create

looks like the Mod, Goupil says that the Executive and the American are

a new shape.” When it comes to styling longer hair, Pereira says that a

good transitions to where men’s hairstyles are going—all of which are

blow-dryer is the number one way to achieve the look. “Your blow-dryer

part of American Crew’s curriculum.

is your best tool for longer, looser hairstyles,” explains Pereira, “Walking

According to Pereira, disconnecting a cut offers versatility for your

your client through how you’re styling their hair will help them be

clients. “It gives the illusion of both long and short hair, depending on

comfortable enough to recreate the look at home.”

how they want to style their look,” he says. “This is going to be a staple

While the longer looks are making a comeback, Johnston says clients will be looking to hairstylists to help them decide how to best grow out

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in salons because most men want to stand out between how they look every day and at night.”

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Clean Sweep Disinfection isn’t as sexy of a topic as, say, the latest trends in barbering. We know. It is, however, as crucial in your shop as the most Instagram-worthy beard trim or crewcut. More importantly, your reputation could be at stake. Here’s how to play it safe. By Yasmin Grothé THE THREAT IS REAL In a salon setting, where shaving and cutting implements are in close contact with clients’ skin, it is of utmost importance to protect them and your staff to reduce the risk of infection during services. According to the Ministry of Health and Long-Term Care in Ontario. “Exposure to blood or body fluids can lead to infection with blood-borne pathogens including hepatitis B and C, HIV, and other human retroviruses, bacteria and other dangerous pathogens.” What’s more concerning, according to Barbicide, an effective and wellknown disinfectant in the industry, is that real risks now include bacteria and viruses that can spread very quickly and be disabling or deadly within hours. We also have the added threat of antibiotic-resistant bacteria (superbugs), which spread very easily, are difficult to treat and can be deadly.” Another factor in the equation is that some clients with medical conditions, such as diabetes, or who are taking medication for asthma or rheumatoid arthritis, are at higher risk for infection because these drugs lower their immune system. But just because a bug doesn’t threaten the life of a client doesn’t mean that it can’t seriously damage your business. Just think about how quickly news spreads like wildfire on social media.

THREE DEGREES OF CLEANLINESS As you might have already noticed if you’re a salon owner, Health Canada equipment entering the country. Disinfectants, which have an amazing track record of effectiveness when used correctly, are classified as drug products that must be approved by Health Canada and have a unique Drug Identification Number (DIN)—something to keep in mind if you are approached with an unknown product or brand.

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PHOTO: BARBICIDE,THINKSTOCK

does not regulate your business or the industry—just the products and

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New Certification According to Fiona Chambers, executive

all hairstylists and barbers to be certified

director for the BeautyCouncil Western

and maintain these high standards to

Canada, “The lack of regulation poses

reduce the spread of bacterial infections

a risk to consumers if cosmetologists

and communicable diseases. The

are inadequately trained in the proper

certification must be renewed every three

use of potentially harmful chemicals

years. “Just as FoodSafe is mandatory

and equipment. This is the reason why

in the food industry, BeautySafe should

we have just launched BeautySafe, a

be mandatory in the professional

program designed for cosmetologists

beauty industry—it just makes sense,”

about best practices and legal

emphasizes Chambers.

responsibilities when providing personal

Hopefully, this new program will

services to protect both the beauty

encourage other provinces to follow suit

professionals and clients.”

and auto-regulate the industry, to foster

BeautySafe incorporates standards recognized across Canada encouraging

However, the good news is that you

Soaking Disinfectants: a Step-By-Step Guide

Change the disinfectant daily, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

best hygiene practices in barbershops and salons.

ensure that the bacteria and germs are

are in complete control of the cleanliness

eradicated,” he says. Once the contact time

of your tools and your station when using

is completed, remove the implements and

the products and technologies that have

rinse them with water or keep them in the

a proven degree of efficacy. According to

large Barbicide glass jar on your counter for

Domenic Sgromo, president of AEMCO

clients to see. For objects you can’t soak,

Sales, manufacturer’s representatives

such as a counter or chair, you can use the

for the professional beauty industry,

Barbicide spray and let the product remain,

there are three ways that Barbicide can

without wiping, for 10 minutes. “Again,

help salon professionals provide a clean,

notice the 10 minutes of wet contact time,

germ-free environment. “For things like

which is vital for proper infection control,”

shears, combs and brushes, immerse in

reminds Sgromo.

Ensure that you have the proper concentration of the disinfectant.

Maintain a proper contact time of 10 minutes—this is the amount of time that an instrument must be in contact with the disinfectant to be effective against dangerous pathogens.

the Barbicide solution for 10 minutes to

The three steps for infection control Clean or sanitize

Disinfection

Sterilization

The first step in infection control is the

The next step in infection control requires the

This final step destroys all microbial

removal of visible debris from an object

use of a chemical disinfectant on nonporous

life. It’s not required in a barbershop,

or surface, such as washing with warm,

implements like plastics and metals and

but it’s essential in the nail industry.

soapy water, or using a chemical cleaner

surfaces only. When performed properly,

This is always done with an autoclave

disinfection is effective against bacteria in

machine that uses high heat and

the salon or barbershop. However, always

pressure to kill pathogens.

to remove hair product residue.

remember that the disinfecting product must have the proper concentration, mixing proportions and contact time.

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How to Discuss

Thinning Hair with Your Clients

There are different go-to statements, but it’s about thinking positive— as if their glass is half full as opposed to half empty.” While you may want to rely on your go-to cutting and styling techniques to achieve the appearance of fuller-looking hair, Sementilli, who is also an educator for Nioxin, says thinning hair is so common now that it’s important to start the dialogue with your clients and educate them about the options available. “It’s not the clients’ responsibility to make you feel comfortable about telling them what’s best for them,” she says. “It’s our responsibility as professionals to become more educated, and that automatically helps you become a more confident and professional hairstylist.”

By Veronica Boodhan

TIP

hether it’s due to genetics, stress or overprocessing, thinning hair is becoming all the more common among both men and women. We get some expert advice for opening

up the discussion with your clientele and handling the issue “head on.”

Let Clients Be Heard

As the salon professional, it’s natural to want to lend your expertise to your clients’ hair concerns. However, it’s also important to listen to what your clients have to say about their hair. “Asking questions is the key to sensing how comfortable any client is with discussing

TIP

hair loss,” says Suzy Henningsgard, global education manager for

Speak Up

éprouvage. “Listening carefully to your client’s answers will tell you how to approach the subject and which route to take.” While some clients may not have the ideal responses regarding

Using appropriate verbiage can be the key to having a successful

their daily hair care and maintenance, it’s important to empathize

conversation with your client. “The term ‘thinning hair’ is already

with them. “Healthy hair starts and stops with a healthy hair routine,”

something we need to start removing from our vocabulary when speaking

says Henningsgard. “Both chemical and mechanical damage are

to clients because it’s the beginning of an unpleasant visual,” says Mirella

huge contributors to thinning hair. Speaking to their concerns and

Rota Sementilli, a hairstylist at Salon Shampoo in Toronto. “I would ask

coming from a caring place will make them more open to having a

if they are interested in more volume or would like to see more fullness.

conversation in which you can help them address their needs.”

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PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK, NIOXIN, BOSLEY PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH, VIVISCAL PROFESSIONAL, ÉPROUVAGE

Four experts weigh in with tips for discussing this often-sensitive subject with your clients.

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TIP

PRODUCT PICKS

Be Solution Oriented

As important as it is to have honest and professional communication with your clients, it’s critical to know what options are available to determine the best course of action. “Besides medical surgeries, we have many tools available as stylists to help our clients,” says Loucas Reklitis, master stylist at Donato Salon + Spa in Toronto. “I would recommend working from the inside out, using a supplement such as Viviscal Professional twice daily for three to six months. The results are unbeatable, but they have to stick to taking the pills twice daily if they want to see results.” Since not all clients may be on board with taking supplements and waiting to see results, Reklitis also recommends the use of tinted sprays, fibre powders

NIOXIN NIOXIN DIAMAX THICKENING XTRAFUSION TREATMENT “This is a perfect product for people with finer hair,” says Sementilli. “It plumps hair up to 30 per cent. Once treated, each strand of hair plumps, and stays plumps for the rest of the day.”

and styling products designed for thinning hair, wigs and extensions to instantly improve hair’s appearance. While Reklitis admits that discussing thinning hair with clients can

BOSLEY

sometimes be difficult, it’s something many of his clients are very

BOSLEY PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH

receptive to. “My clients come in concerned about thinning hair every day,

HAIR THICKENING FIBERS

and it’s my job as a salon professional to give them my honest opinion and

“The keratin-based hair fibres cling to

best possible solutions,” he says. “If you try to avoid the topic entirely,

the fibres of the hair. You blow-dry the

then you are doing an injustice to your clients. Putting it off will make it

hair and shake the fibres onto the hair

more difficult as the condition progresses, so it’s better to give them the help they need.”

and it matches the hair colour for instant thickness and density,” says Blaisure. “The fibres are easy to use and remove—just brush them out or shampoo.”

TIP

#4 Be Proactive

Some clients may choose to wait until their condition has progressed

VIVISCAL VIVISCAL PROFESSIONAL HAIR NOURISHMENT SYSTEM

before beginning the discussion, which emphasizes the importance for

“It’s a drug-free, all-natural

hairstylists to start the conversation with their clients sooner rather than

supplement,” says Reklitis.

later. “Our top-selling products are for those with noticeably thinning hair

“I always start with

or advanced thinning hair because people will often wait until they are

recommending the supplement

in 911 mode before they address it,” says Michelle Blaisure, director of

to my clients because it will not

education for Bosley Professional Strength. “I think one of the biggest

only help their hair, but it will

opportunities for hairstylists is to talk about prevention. We think about

also make them feel better.”

prevention for our skin and while we can’t stop aging, we can certainly slow it down with the choices we make. It’s the same thing for hair.” Blaisure, who has more than 20 years of professional beauty experience and is a former hairstylist, recognizes that being proactive isn’t always

ÉPROUVAGE ÉPROUVAGE POUR HOMME

easy. “Hairstylists tend to see immediate results in their work,” she says.

MOLDING PASTE

If we give someone a cut or colour, we see the end result immediately, so

“For flexible texture on damp

we build confidence in our ability to create those looks. But when you’re recommending thinning hair products, to a certain extent it’s a leap of faith because it’s not one size fits all. Not everybody gets the same result, so you need to have a certain level of confidence and understanding to really make the recommendation and talk to clients about it.”

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or dry hair, this gives men a great style while making the hair appear thicker and fuller,” says Henningsgard.

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Hair: Terri Kay and Andrea Giles, Mark Leeson, U.K. Makeup: Naoko Scintu Styling: Bernard Connolly Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

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Sharp cuts and modern styling add rock ’n’ roll edge to this British Hairdressing Awardwinning men’s collection.

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Dramatic texture is juxtaposed with sophisticated styling in this Canadian collection.

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Boys’ Club Finalist, Contessa 28, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year Hair: Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Styling: Paul Langill Photos: Lane Dorsey

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Hair: Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Makeup: Taylor Booth Photos: Edwin Johnston

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MODERN GENTLEMEN Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s styles are elevated with contemporary flair in this Canadian collection.

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R EFIN ED Modern looks with a â&#x20AC;&#x2122;90s throwback feel are featured in this Contessawinning collection.

Winner, Contessa 28 Fan Favourite of the Year: Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Makeup: Alexandre Deslauriers Photo: Tina Picard

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Finalist, Contessa 28 Canadian Salon Team of the Year: Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Hair: Dylan Sit and Kristjan Hayden Makeup: Hassan Haque Styling: Diego Armand Photos: Peter Tamlin

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Ethereal Elegance Dramatic texture and multi-dimensional colour add a fantasy element to this Canadian collection.

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Party Girls

Hair: Nicola Smyth Humphriss, Nicola Smyth Award Winning Hair, U.K. Makeup: Naomi Hawkins Styling: Niall Littlejohn Photo: Richard Miles

Metallics and pastels collide in this glamorous collection of textured styles.

m a r c h .1 7

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A very special thank you from Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply to all our valued clientele for 80 years of success together. From a single store in 1937 selling straight razors, to four store locations across the GTA; Maritime- and Ontario-wide distribution; the formation of our education program; and the launch of our highly successful Liquid Luxuries division which has become your #1 provider of best-selling, high quality professional beauty products. We appreciate your continued support, patronage and look forward to further serving you and generations of amazing stylists to come! Sincerely, David Kaufman, President, Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply

BOOSTER™ BARBER SHOP CLASSICS SINCE 1920

www.tbbs.ca Toronto, 416.977.2020 • North York (Head Office), 416.787.1211 • Richmond Hill, 905.508.7089 • Mississauga, 905.712.4449

DEFINED DIMENSION Textured looks and multifaceted colour add drama to this Canadian collection. Finalist, Contessa 28 Quebec Hairstylist of the Year: Daniel Benoit, Salon Pure, Montreal Makeup: Richard St. Laurent Styling: Florence O. Durand Photo: Ara Sassoonian

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Collection Spring / Summer 2017 by Bio Sculpture Gel

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216 - VIOLENTLY HAPPY

“In Canada the level of creativity and sheer experimentation is incredible. In France, hairstyling is very glamorous and structured, but it’s not as artistic as it is here. And I definitely needed this vibe to nurture my creativity.”

HAIR AND ARTISTIC DIRECTION: STÉPHANE SCOTTO DI CESARE PHOTOS: DAMIAN SIQUEIROS

–STÉPHANE SCOTTO DI CESARE

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French Tw i s t Inventive, determined and fearless: These are some of the many qualities that Stéphane Scotto Di Cesare brings to his creative work. In his new role as Revlon Professional’s Canadian brand ambassador, the salon owner and academy director from France talks with Salon Magazine about his inspiration and how he is always nurturing his creativity. By Yasmin Grothé On Inspiration Created by a team of passionate Montreal artists, the collection was inspired by the vast body of work from Leonardo da Vinci. “We wanted to reinterpret the way da Vinci achieved the delicate and refined hair in his paintings. Hairstyling is a centuries-old art, and we must look to the past to improve our craft in the future.”

Mentorship Matters However, becoming a brand ambassador for Revlon Professional is one of the new roles that most pleases Scotto Di Cesare. Not only has he worked with the brand in Europe Scotto Di Cesare was also a Style Masters finalist. He will now mentor hairstylists who are entering this coveted competition, as well as be on stage with Revlon Professional at the upcoming Montreal and Toronto ABAs. Not bad when you have recently reset your career from France to Canada.

Upcoming Projects Beyond his creative and artistic work, Scotto Di Cesare is creating the men’s hairstyles for Toronto Men’s Fashion Week (TOM*), working with Cirque du Soleil Moment Factory (yes, the company that worked on Madonna’s latest tour) and as an educator for Revlon Professional.

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CONTESSA GALLERY

CONTESSA 28 FINALIST MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

Fabrizio Perciballi has more than a decade of industry experience. He is also a previous Contessa winner for Men’s Hairstylist of the Year.

WELLA PROFESSIONALS EIMI SCULPT FORCE

“It’s a great product for prepping damp hair, making it easier to maintain the hair’s shape once it’s blow-dried.”

hen creating his Contessa 2017

he says. “A guy in his 60s that has four

Men’s Hairstylist of the Year

grandkids—like one of the models I had—

collection, Fabrizio Perciballi

can look just as good and get just as much

garnered inspiration from a Canadian

attention as the 22-year-old next to him.”

fashion icon.

FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION

FASHION FORWARD

According to Perciballi, competitions have

“Paul Mason is an older, distinguished

been a creative outlet for him. “You do what

model who is setting the bar high in terms

you feel, and you’re sending a message

of being older but looking just as cool as

on how you want to create a certain look,”

some of the younger guys,” says Perciballi.

says Perciballi, who enjoys styling his photo

“A lot of my inspiration came from him.

shoots himself. “It’s a clean canvas. It’s not

As Fashion Santa, he has created a lot of

like doing an editorial and having someone

buzz and became the talk of the fashion

dictate what the model needs to look like.”

industry.” Rather than looking to men’s

Perciballi’s passion for his craft is what

hairstyling trends, Perciballi took a more

continues to push him further. “I just take

classic approach. “I wanted to go with more

it day by day and give it my all,” he says.

polished looks, making a statement that

“I want to show the rest of the world the

style has no boundaries in terms of age,”

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“It’s super-light and easy to brush through, making the hair look great without being crunchy.”

KEVIN.MURPHY FREE.HOLD

“I love using this styling paste as a polish because it can highlight the texture of the hair, making the natural texture really pop. It’s also very versatile because the hold level is light.”

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; HAIR: FABRIZIO PERCIBALLI, P&H SALON AND SPA, TORONTO; MAKEUP: LISA TUFF; STYLING: FABRIZIO PERCIBALLI; PHOTO: NATASHA GERSCHON

Fabrizio Perciballi

SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL SHAPER ZERO GRAVITY

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Beauty and the Beast spring ColleCtion

The LasT PeTaL

GasTOn and On and On

with EnchantEd Patina

Be Our GuesT

days in The sun

with EnchantEd Patina

POTTs Of Tea

PLumeTTe WiTh exciTemenT

with EnchantEd Patina

enchanTed PaTina

SALON PROFILE

A New Take on Tradition Matty Conrad has put his own spin on barbering, creating the overwhelmingly successful Victory Barber & Brand. And as a Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Artist, Conrad has gone from a West Coast stylist and entrepreneur to the global stage. By Veronica Boodhan

just from a small town in British Columbia. But

for Conrad who credits Kathy Simon, creative director

that doesn’t stop him from being recognized

for Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks and Mekka

(many thanks to his hilarious viral YouTube videos) in the

(and Contessa 28 Elite Master of the Year winner), as

airport on his way home from his many work trips abroad,

his mentor. “As far as I’m concerned, she’s a complete

whether it’s to participate in a hair show, promote Victory

genius,” he says. “I’ve never met anybody who cuts hair

Barber & Brand or represent Schwarzkopf Professional.

as well as her; I couldn’t cut hair as

Conrad has transcended Canada with his defined

well before I met her, and I’ll probably

aesthetic (a bad-boy vibe with a glass of bourbon that’s

owe her for that for the rest of my life.”

never too far away). But according to Conrad, he tends to find his biggest inspiration in the past. “Barbering is the biggest movement in hairstyling

The brand has also been a huge source of inspiration

With the iconic rebel styles of James Dean and River Phoenix making a comeback, Conrad says this

right now,” he says. “I find myself inspired by the

year is all about longer locks that have

history, studying the history of barbering and fashion

been slicked down and polished—

for indicators of where the trends are going.” Conrad

more mainstream and reminiscent of

brought his inspiration to life when he created two looks

looks seen on the TV show Mad Men.

for Schwarzkopf Professional’s Osis+ line. The low-faded

“Old-school slick looks that we’ve

pompadour features longer sides, which are swept back

been seeing for years in barbers, but

for a more casual look. “It’s a really classic, old-school

we’re now seeing them everywhere,”

1930s haircut that feels very blue collar and not very high

he explains.

fashion,” he explains. For the second look, The 1942, Conrad sought

“Men’s looks right now are all about the blow dryer. Younger, earlier adopters are going for

inspiration from World War II photographs. “Hair was

more movement, texture and life to the hair. It’s more

very tight on the sides, since soldiers were pulling their

tailored on the sides. Still clean looks, but they are coming

helmets on and off all day," he says. "Instead of the hair

a little more undone, especially on top. We’re working with

being very slicked down and groomed, it looked a lot more

more texture for a piecier look, so it’s more approachable

roughed up, textured, messy and dry. It looked really cool,

and fun.” He adds, “When styles get classic, anyone of

so I tried to create a look with more of that feel to it.”

any age can wear them.”

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Style icon James Dean

PHOTOS: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, MATTY CONRAD, ROB CAMPBELL, AMANDA DEVOS

atty Conrad will be the first to tell you: He’s

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“My grandfather would say ‘When you put a part in a man’s hair and a shine on his shoes, he becomes his best self,’” says Conrad. “The way we make people feel is just as important as the way we make them look.”

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It’s a Man’s World The barbering movement has undoubtedly revitalized the industry, casting a spotlight on men’s grooming. We take a closer look at the barbershop business model and get expert advice for getting your business on the right track. By Veronica Boodhan

Toronto. “Whenever something is trendy it attracts people who are more interested in being popular than doing the work. We see a lot of barbershops that focus on volume— the quantity of customers. The work of the modern barber is to not just clean the guy up but clients want their barbers to be more skilled.” Brands have recognized the growing trend of barbering and have continued to invest in their educational programs to help hairstylists and barbers develop their skills. “The number one program of all our educational programs has

ith today’s increasing number of barbershops popping up coast to coast, there is something for every man—from the traditional to

been our men’s programs,” says Ritcey. “While there are these great looks you see for men, it’s very difficult for many people to create if they haven’t been trained.”

lifestyle barbershops and everything

CREATE A MANFRIENDLY SPACE

in between. “Barbering is very much here “It’s important for

education director for Redken Canada.

recommends paying closer attention

themselves and be

to your decor and magazines. “Look

well versed in their

at creating a whole male experience,”

“We have the hipster barbers that have really dominated the barbering movement several years ago, but more

craft. It’s the only thing

he says. “Right now, the focus is on

hairstylists are also getting educated.”

that’s going to push our

creating a man-cave or man-station area

industry forward.”

that is attached or within the salon that

Martin Rivard, co-founder of Barber & Co., a Vancouver chain of barbershops, says he has seen barbering evolve

– MARTIN RIVARD,

since opening his first shop six years ago. “Barbering is huge, especially on

CO-FOUNDER OF BARBER & CO.

Some barbershops have taken their decor to the next level—tailoring design for men with specific interests to offer a barbershop, man-cave hybrid. For

traditional shops have always been

example: Barber & Co.’s new Toronto location in the city’s trendy Ossington

barbershops are fairly new,” he says. “Now, a guy might

neighbourhood. The location, which was formerly an artist’s

come into the barbershop with his buddy and watch the

studio, has transformed into Rivard’s first full vision of his

game together and get a shave together. It’s pretty cool. It’s

brand’s concept, with an eclectic gift shop located in the

pushed boundaries.”

back of the barbershop. Afterhours, the shop is transformed

As barbering continues to dominate men’s style, we narrow down a few tips for helping you stay ahead of the curve.

KNOW YOUR STUFF

into a full-service bar. “We appreciate the old school but we’re not focusing on being a traditional barbershop,” explains Rivard. “We want to get back to social interactions between gentlemen, which is what the barbershop was

Education has had a significant role in the growth of

designed to be in earlier years. With our bar we’re trying to

barbering—from students entering the industry to

bring this idea a notch higher.”

hairstylists seeking to develop their craft. “There are

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is a designated men’s zone.”

the west coast. On the east coast, the around, but the more modernized

For barbershops and salons, Ritcey

everyone to educate

Once men feel comfortable in the shop’s space, it can

barbers skilled at what they do, but there are just as

be one of the fastest ways to grow your clientele. “It’s

many who are doing it as a lifestyle choice versus being a

revitalizing an old school sense of community. Men are

professional,” says Doug Stewart, co-owner of Garrison’s in

looking to spend more time and wanting to go to a place

PHOTO: LAURA ROWE PHOTOGRAPHY

to stay,” says Terry Ritcey, national

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The bar at Barber & Co., Toronto

where they feel taken care of,” says Gillian Maley, brand manager of Tea Tree and Mitch for John Paul Mitchell Systems. “Men are man-scaping more now than they were years before, when they were just clean shaving themselves. They are looking at the trends happening in hair and grooming and want to have a space to go and be taken care of.” While it’s important to keep your clients

“

% 80

their phones until their appointment is about to start. We’re trying to create a conversational experience.”

EDUCATE CLIENTS

of men use grooming products

With more emphasis being placed on

today and will spend upwards of

men’s hairstyling and grooming, more

30 minutes grooming. Always be

men are investing in professional styling

engaged with your guest; listen

and grooming products. “Men are actually

and ask the right questions.”

easier to sell a product to than women

in mind when designing your space,

– TERRY RITCEY, NATIONAL

are,” says Maley. “They are very brand

Stewart says your staff’s needs are just

EDUCATION DIRECTOR FOR

loyal, and they respect their barbers’ and

as important. “We put great effort into

REDKEN CANADA

hairstylists’ professional opinions.”

designing the space to be a place where

With so many products on the market,

our people can feel special to work in every

it’s important for barbers and hairstylists

day,” says Stewart, who created a small,

to educate their clients. “The biggest

private space in the back of his shop for staff to relax, take breaks

thing that often happens is that clients aren’t properly shown how

and rejuvenate. “We care as much about our barbers as we do

to use the products,” says Ritcey. “It’s about making what you’re

about the clients. They are the people doing the work—the creating

using part of your conversation. Inform and educate and really let

and thinking on their feet, so we wanted to make sure it’s a space

them know how this is going to benefit them. Always focus on

that’s healthy for them.”

what it is, what it has and what it does. How is it ultimately going

For his clients, Stewart says Garrison’s is designed to be a

to benefit the client? It’s important to make sure we’re keeping

community. “It’s meant to be a place where guys talk to each

them abreast of what’s current and what’s new. By us staying

other, even if they don’t know each other,” he says. “There

educated, it will keep them educated as well. It’s just that much

are three areas where guys can sit and chat with one another.

more of a reason why they would want to keep coming back to a

It’s not really a space where we want guys to just stare at

great professional.”

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SALON INTERIORS

Create a Men’s Grooming Experience

From bustling suburban neighbourhoods to the heart of metropolitan areas, the business of barbering is all about marrying the craft of haircutting with a cultural experience. BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO

Barber & Co. BARBERSHOP, LAB AND ACADEMY, VANCOUVER (YALETOWN), B.C. “Education has always been a priority because barbering, as much as it is traditional, is also progressive and everstep ahead of trends, when our master barbers lead classes with our own staff, and offer public workshops. Motivating and equipping creative people with the skill set they need to

–Martin Rivard, co-founder and master barber

m a r c h .1 7

make barbering a career is a great feeling.”

PHOTOS: BARBER & CO.

changing. The Academy gives us an opportunity to stay a

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GREEN

YOUR COMMUNITY

Host a ‘Green Your Community’ event at your salon, distributorship or academy in honour of Earth Month and GCS will reward you & the planet Go to www.greencirclesalons.com to participate!

t: 1.877.424.3327 Partners for a Sustainable Salon Industry

SALON INTERIORS

CALGARY “The idea for the Empire Room came when I spotted a lovely 115-year-old barber chair down in the U.S. The room is decorated with a Prohibition-era theme, which was chosen because it was an era when personal services for men were are at their peak. We made the decision to ensure all the antiques are real and true to that time period. The one modern allowance was a 'window' paned by a local artist to give the impression that you're looking into a street scene, through a barbershop window in 1929.” –Geoff Best, co-owner

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PHOTOS: BEST OF SEVEN BARBERS, EIKONIC HOUSE OF BARBERS

Best of Seven Barbers

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Eikonic House of Barbers BRAMPTON, ONT.

“We have 10 barber chairs at home,” says Jessica Hoach, co-owner of Eikonic House of Barbers in Brampton, Ont. Since opening their barbershop in 2010, her husband and business partner, Martin Truong has amassed this collection of chairs, which are in rotation at Eikonic. “We’ve also gone a bit more retro, too, adding old-school Nintendo and Sega video game systems for our guests,” says Hoach, who has seen new friendships forged over the gaming systems. Their clients range from urban hipsters and the young at heart to university students and young professionals, contributing to the inclusive and welcoming atmosphere.

DESIGN TEAM When it came to station design, Truong was inspired by the culinary industry, where a chef’s kitchen has everything in its place. At each station, “the drawers are designed so that the cords are stowed away eliminating clutter,” says Hoach. To keep each barber’s station well organized while creating a teambased atmosphere, a central styling station houses all grooming products. “The dispensary area keeps the barbers in close connection with one another and creates that conversational atmosphere,” says Hoach.

DOUBLE TAKE “We book 30-minute appointments and, with 11 barbers, there’s a lot of traffic,” says Hoach. As a result, adding a second reception area speeds up scheduling and expedites purchasing on weekends, when many clients stop by to stock up between important for us to be able to help everyone professionally.”

Details Opened 2009 Design Takara Belmont Space 1,226 square feet Team 11 barber staff 2 support staff

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appointments. “We are a local neighbourhood spot, so it's

Brands American Crew Goldwell Jack Black Jack Scene KMS Paul Mitchell Reuzel Website eikonicmane.com

m a r c h .1 7

SALON INTERIORS

Scotch & Scissors MONTREAL “Our decor was inspired by the Prohibition era. Many pieces are photos from that era. We wanted it to have the feel of a men’s club or cigar lounge, which is why we chose a mixture of warm browns, wood and leather. Our shop has a vintage feel with a modern twist.” —Cristina Clemente, manager

m a r c h .1 7

PHOTO: SCOTCH & SCISSORS

antiques from that time period, along with some custom frames with

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Can’t live without it!

Voting begins March 30

readerschoice.salonmagazine.ca Vote to win two tickets to the Contessa gala on Sunday, November 12, 2017 in Toronto!

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, except residents of Quebec, who are at time of entry of age of majority in province/ territory of residence. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on March 30, 2017 and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 14, 2017 ( “Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 21, 2017 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2018 Contessa Gala. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at salonmagazine.ca/rca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.

CELEBR ATING FABIO

Education is our greatest advantage.

To be truly happy, you must be ready to give 100% and expect nothing in return.

Celebrating at the North American TrendVision Awards 2016

Hairstylists must strive for creative intelligence: The balance of technical excellence with business acumen.

Along with his contributions to the beauty industry, Fabio Sementilli offered inspiring advice, which he often channelled through social media. Here we captured some of his thoughts on the salon business, education and mentorship.

1990

2000

2002

2003

2004

OWNER SHAMPOO & SALON FABIO, TORONTO

IBS WORLD SUPREME GOLD MEDAL WINNER

NAHA CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC WINNER

CONTESSA TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

NAHA COLORIST OF THE YEAR

m a r c h .1 7

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

Forever fab -ulous In January the industry lost Fabio Sementilli, who was passionate about the craft of hairstyling and known for his larger-than-life persona. Here we remember the man who will

Fabio with Yasmin Grothé, Salon Magazine’s French editor-in-chief.

be celebrated and forever missed. WELL-KNOWN FOR HIS creative drive and passion for the

A mentor shouldn’t exclusively be the most popular or the wealthiest but should be someone who really knows you and can guide you honestly, when you lose your way or give you a kick in the pants if needed.

professional beauty industry, Fabio Sementilli’s energy was electric. As the vice president of North American education for Wella Professionals, Sementilli was known to hairstylists throughout the continent for his ability to create a collaborative team environment. From the stage show to the salon to schools, Sementilli’s passion for teaching, coupled with a desire to mentor the industry’s new talent made him a natural leader for Wella’s education. Along with his passion for education, Sementilli was equally passionate for giving back through community service. As one of the driving forces behind many of the initiatives for the brand’s Hairdressers at Heart program, Sementilli was a champion offering opportunities for beauty professionals at all stages of their careers.

PHOTOS: WELLA PROFESSIONALS,YASMIN GROTHÉ, LAURA DUNPHY, GREG ROBINS

With Laura Dunphy, Salon Magazine president and publisher and Wella Professionals’ creative director of care and styling, Eugene Souleiman.

Showing up on time, paying it forward, being consistent, sharing your weaknesses

#Throwback to Fabio and his wife Monica at the 2001 Contessa Awards gala.

and strengths—these create the best hairdressers in the world.

2006

2007

2010

2013

Team Canada CapTain Hairworld

CreaTive direCTor wella Canada

CreaTive and TeCHniCal direCTor for wella norTH ameriCa

norTH ameriCan vp wella eduCaTion

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

m a r c h .1 7

SALON EVENTS

Schwarzkopf Professional teams up with Dress for Success WHAT Women from Toronto’s Dress for Success employment programs

were given total beauty makeovers thanks to the hairstylists and colourists at Toronto’s Schwarzkopf Professional Academy. This has allowed them to put their best foot forward, giving them a fresh start as they embark on new career paths in 2017. WHEN AND WHERE December 11, 2016 in Toronto Hairstylists from across the Greater Toronto Area gave up their day off, in favour of giving back. “We had an incredible response from hairstylists,” says Amanda Belasco, director of marketing for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada. The partnership was a natural fit for the brand’s Million Chances initiative, which is geared to empowering women. “Confidence is a big part of it and, thanks to these hairstylists who are giving their time at the Schwarzkopf Professional Academy, this has been an incredible boost for each and every one of them,” says Susan Endicott, volunteer and programs coordinator for Dress for Success.

“As busy as the holiday season is for hairstylists, I think it is so important to make time to give back to the community wherever and whenever possible,” says Erin DeLuca a technical advisor for Schwarzkopf Professional. According to DeLuca, this was an opportunity to “give the gift of confidence, that really empowers women as they soar toward goals in the workplace.” PHOTOS COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

R+Co has made it official in Canada DETAILS Luxury styling brand R+Co officially launched into the Canadian market

with stage presentations from the brand’s creative lead, Howard McLaren. McLaren, along with editorial hairstyling experts Garren and Thom Priano, bring their expertise in creative direction, editorial hairstyling and men’s grooming, respectively, to create a dynamic styling brand. As a brand, R+Co has positioned itself as a collective that includes hairstylists ranging from new talent to industry legends, with each product being developed in collaboration with a member of this exclusive team. Taking hair and scalp health into account, the products are treatment-oriented and feature formulations that are free of parabens, sulfates and are also vegetarian and cruelty-free. The line will be available through Summit Salon Services in Western Canada and Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply in Ontario, with distribution in Quebec expected this spring. WHEN AND WHERE November 2, 2016 in Vancouver

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PHOTO CREDITS: VALÉRIE LÉGÈRE

SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

SALON SCOOP

1 TAKING THE LEAD AT WELLA PROFESSIONALS Marianne Medeiros has been announced as the North American vice-president of BSG Direct Selling and Canada. “Marianne has leveraged her experience to put the sharpest focus on growing our customers’ business at salons, stores and distributors,” says Fred Collins, vice-president, North America for Coty Professional Beauty BSG, DSO, Coty Canada. “She is an exceptional leader who combines collaboration with a deep understanding of the business. At Coty Professional, we are delighted to have her lead our Canadian organization.” With more than 20 years of experience in the professional beauty industry, Medeiros most recently held the role of commercial leader with Wella Canada, working with the sales and marketing division through the merger with Coty. Medeiros takes on the position previously held by Davy DeBondt, who will relocate to California and become senior director of trade marketing.

2 MOVING ON UP Editorial hairstylist Kevin Hughes has been named Moroccanoil’s artistic director. Hughes has been a national educator with Moroccanoil, more recently becoming a global ambassador and spokesperson for the brand. With his work appearing in the pages of

PHOTOS: COTY, MOROCCANOIL

consumer and trade publications including Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Glamour and Salon Magazine, it has enabled Hughes to lend his keen eye to detailed editorial hairstyling. In addition, he has worked with celebrities like Emily Blunt and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and designers like Zac Posen and Carolina Herrera backstage at New York Fashion Week.

edgedistribution@shaw.ca SALONMAGA ZINE.CA

invisibobblecanada

invisibobblecanada m a r c h .1 7

SALON BEST 9

Our #Best9 Men’s Styles From pompadours to tight fades to clean beards, men’s hairstyling and barbering is making waves across Instagram. Here are just a handful of styles that stood out to us.

Embracing those Viking vibes

Clean, tight, perfect fade

@makimakhair

@paulpereira08

@mattyconrad

Taking it retro with a straight front

Big colour with this vivid purple

It’s a classic

@adamoc_hair

@guy_tang

@thejourneymanbarber

Fun with length and texture

Clean lines and a little creative play

Playing with “parts”

@mainvillemathieu

@adamtheapprentice

@sandra_perovic

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

Playing with shape

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