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GET TO KNOW YOUR CLIENTS
HOW TO IDENTIFY A TRUE GREY CLIENT
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HINTS AND TIPS
TREATMENTS
1
GET TO KNOW YOUR CLIENTS
trend trend
THE GREY HAIR
1/3 Women and 1/2 Men 65+ have naturally grey hair
Why?
they have decided to age fearlessly they are proud of their natural hair colour they are concerned of damage they want to avoid the recurring cost & time A N D T H I S T R E N D H A S AC C E L E R AT E D DUE TO COVID-19
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"
It feels like the world is now realising how beautiful, authentic and empowering grey hair can be.
Rossano FERRETTI
Wella Professionals Global Ambassador, known for the invisible haircut and enhancing natural beauty from within.
clients clients WHY ARE
1
NOT COLOURING THEIR GREY HAIR?
The Ex Colourer
A client who was once a former colourer, who perhaps visited the salon regularly, proudly stopped colouring their hair due to high maintenance and damage or during the pandemic in 2020/21 when salons were closed.
These clients may have gone through a lengthy transition period and taken time to grow out their previous hair colour, and now their hair is fully natural.
2
The colour virgin
A client who has never coloured their hair or has never even considered colouring their hair. Perhaps they are concerned about chemicals and damage. These clients have embraced their natural grey hair since the very first strand. The sheer thought or even recommendation of colouring their hair is a no go!
he concern the concerns W H AT A R E
ABOUT GREY HAIR?
Many clients start to notice yellowness to their naturally grey hair, which they do not like.
As the hair turns from grey to a paler grey, it can lose some dimension and shadow which frames the face. This can make clients look older than they feel.
Naturally grey hair can appear dull and dry looking, as the hair can lack shine, and be hard to manage and style. Grey hair can be unevenly distributed and often greyer at the front temple areas.
Options are limited Colour depositing products like silver shampoos are a great starting point at home, however they are limited, not personalised and are not long lasting. Often permanent and demi permanent colour can accelerate the yellowing, due to slight lift to the natural hair, clients are also afraid of damage and commitment which is associated with colouring products.
identify identify HOW TO
A TRUE GREY CLIENT
1
2 3
4 5 6
50%
70%
100%
By identifying your True Grey client, this will allow you to personalise your conversation to help build the trust. Make sure to use your True Grey conversation tool to do this. It will help you to identify the percentage of grey hair you are working with. It will give you a step by step approach on how you conduct a True Grey conversation with your client, to decide and design the best Silver Glow service for them. Make sure to tick off all the points of the Silver Glow service check list. Don’t forget the True Grey glossary, the perfect words to help make sure your client does not feel that they are having a colour service.
clients grey hair 2 TYPES OF
CLIENT
You may approach your conversation with The Ex Colourer & the Non Colourer slightly differently as their reasons for embracing their grey may be different.
The Ex Colourer • I wanted to see whether my natural grey would suit me • I needed to get my roots done every 3-4 weeks • It costs too much money and takes too long • It's fashionable
The Hairdresser How do you feel about your natural grey now you have grown it out? Is there anything you would like to change about it?
It looks great, we could add more dimension and enhance it with a no commitment Silver Glow treatment?
The Non Colourer • I have always been too scared to colour my hair • I like to be as natural as possible • I have never had the time • I love my natural colour but it has a yellowness that i dislike
The Hairdresser Your natural hair is beautiful. We now have a treatment that is specifically for natural grey hair to add silver shine, nourish and remove yellow tones in the hair, would you like me to book you in for one on you next visit?
Your beautiful natural tones can be enhanced with a Silver Glow treatment that will also add shine and smoothness.
clientele clientele CONNECT WITH A NEW
a new oxidative silver revitalising treatment, for naturally grey hair. Free of commitment. Free of damage. Now, you can offer your naturally grey hair clients more than just a haircut.
Reduce yellowness
Leave hair soft & manageable
Create natural dimension
Silver hues and shine
range range LINE-UP
7 grey based oxidative toners which mimic the natural hues of beautiful grey hair. No need for intermixing the toners, each tone is beautifully crafted to be used pure, mixed with the Activator.
No 1 Activator
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Toners
A dedicated low volume activator, to ensure results are free of lift and damage.
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Scan Here
To discover more about True Grey
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No 2 Clear Conditioning Perfector
A clear conditioning treatment which leaves the hair feeling soft and manageable. With 3 usage options: post treatment, toner diluter and for express treatments.
rs for all grey 7 toners for all grey needs
With 3 different intensities of light, medium and dark, to help control dimension and shadow. Suitable for different percentages of grey hair, from 50 to 100% grey. Tones that not only revitalise naturally grey hair but enhance eye colour and skin Tones. Free of commitment. Free of damage.
100% naturally grey hair
PEARL MIST
Enhancing eye colours like:
Green, hazel and brown eyes
Light Toners
Ideal for express and all over applications. For up to 100% grey hair.
GRAPHITE SHIMMER
STEEL GLOW
All eye colours
Blue and brown eyes
Violet Grey
Neutral Grey
Enhance silver hues without going dark.
Medium Toners For all over applications and partial techniques.
Blue Grey
Adds a natural looking grey veil.
For a pure grey and soft effects.
Add clarity to dull and lifeless hair.
50-70% grey hair.
Dark Toners For partial applications on up to 100% grey hair.
Add dimension and depth.
For all over treatments apply to up to 50% grey hair.
Tip
On higher percentages of grey hair toners will express more tonal hues.
Add dimension and shadow. Ideal for both women and men, including men’s beards.
Ideal for grey blending for men.
PAT E N T E D T E C H N O L O GY* *patent pending
pearl sassy radiant
fearless steel
soft moonstone
graphite
Through years of research we observed over 400 naturally grey hair clients and how it comes to L I F E . A N D M O R E T H A N G R E Y we saw a beautiful and C O M P L E X U N I V E R S E F U L L O F L I G H T, S H A D O W , subtle dimensions and textures.
1. Free of commitment Unlike conventional toners created with a multitude of colour pigments, we use a subtle & soft oxidative base of TRUE GREY PIGMENTS which mimic the natural hues and vitality of beautiful grey hair, while fading away naturally.
The technology of True Grey a neutral P H O F 7 , L I K E P U R E W A T E R . And just like pure water, it maintains the original structure of the hair and its cuticles, and so doesn’t lift the natural melanin either.
each strand of hair. Damaged cuticles have the opposite result due to raised cuticle scales, that create a rough surface and cause the appearance of dull hair.
What’s more… It has been consciously designed without ammonia, MEA, and without animal derived ingredients and perfume. It is also dermatologically tested.
ing guidel Mixing guidelines partial or full head
30 min
guideline for the EXPRESS treatment mixing mix 1:1:1 up to 1:1:2
EXPRESS
1 :1 :1 15 min
For an overall healthy looking silver finish which softly reduces yellowness. Mix 1:1:1 e.g. 20g True Grey Cream Toner + 20g True Grey Activator + 20g True Grey Clear Conditioning Perfector
During the processing time the treatments will appear dark
1 :1
A personalised treatment to add silver hues and shine, reduce yellowness and leave hair soft and manageable. Apply to dry hair, for all over or partial treatments. Creamy consistency, ideal for freehand techniques. Mix 1:1 e.g. 30g True Grey Cream Toner + 30g True Grey Activator For toner dilution follow the mixing
Apply to pre- shampooed hair. Develop for up to 15 minutes, rinse, and style. No post treatment needed.
After treatment 3 min
After completion of the development time, emulsify with warm water and rinse out. Apply 1 - 2 pumps of Nº2 Clear Conditioning Perfector, comb through the hair and leave up to 3 minutes. Rinse and style.
2
TREATMENTS
INTRODUCING
T R E AT M E N T S
treatments are designed for both men and women. These treatments revitalise naturally grey hair without the compromise of traditional oxidative haircolour. They are free of commitment and free of damage and enhance eye colour and skin tones. For personalised partial applications treatments or full head, add silver hues and dimension, with precious freehand placement to enhance or add shadowing effects in 30 minutes, leaving the hair soft and manageable.
treatment, will An EXPRESS revitalise naturally grey hair, add shine and create an overall silver finish whilst softly reducing unwanted yellowness in just 15 minutes. Gently fading within 2-3 weeks. No commitment and a perfect first time service. This service is quick and easy to apply, and can be carried out at the basin area. It is an ideal opportunity for your client to experience the revitalising results before a hair cut.
How to create the look
EXPRESS
Revitalise naturally grey hair. Add shine and create an overall silver finish, whilst softly reducing unwanted yellowness.
Nicole
73 years old A city girl, loves walking and exploring cities. When Nicole coloured her hair, it was often with highlights to stay blonde and lighter.
Before
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"
The only thing I would love to do now is get rid of the yellownessI like my hair at the top and I don’t like it towards the ends.
After
Nicole
The hair is a 100% grey, is fine in texture, with yellow and brassy tones on the ends
A quick effective salon treatment to reduce yellowness and enhance naturally grey hair.
tep by ste Step by step EXPRESS
Prepare Step 1 20g True Grey Steel Glow Medium + 20g True Grey Activator + 40g True Grey Clear Conditioning Perfector
2
1
Start by shampooing the hair with Elements, gently towel dry to blot away excess water.
Apply the EXPRESS treatment at the basin from the nape to the front, from root to ends.
3
10-15 min
Gently comb through the hair to make sure the treatment is evenly distributed.
tep by ste Step by step 15 min
4
Leave to develop for 10-15 mins, rinse, and style. No post treatment needed.
A quick effective salon treatment to reduce yellowness and enhance naturally grey hair.
range offers perfect care for naturally grey hair. There is no need for colour care, even after
treatments.
How to create the look
artial high Partial highs AND LOWS
Enhance the shape of a haircut by adding natural looking dimension to specific areas.
Catherine
55 years old Loves walking and travelling Catherine has higher amounts of grey hair at the sides and top.
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"
I want to refresh my cut and make my hair look nicer without changing its natural colour. I want to feel more confident.
Before
After
The sides have higher amounts of grey.
Whilst the crown area is darker.
The front area is much greyer than the top and crown area.
Catherine
tep by ste Step by step
Prepare step 1 30g True Grey Graphite Shimmer Dark + 30g True Grey Activator
2 3 4
1
Working visually, take triangular sections in the areas with higher percentages of grey hair. Apply the toner freehand, no need for foils.
At the nape area, comb directly the toner on to the hair, this will create an even blend and soft transition throughout the hair. Trust the process- develop for 30 minutes without heat. During the development time the toner will appear dark - don’t worry this is expected- but don’t forget to tell your client!
30 min
Once development time is complete, emulsify, rinse, shampoo and apply No 2 True Grey Clear Conditioning Perfecter for shine enhancement- leave up to 3 minutes before rinsing and styling.
3 min
Tips Tips
ON HOME CARE
Catherine prefers her hair to have some volume, she doesn't like heavy products and opts to not use conditioners in fear they weigh her hair down.
Often clients buy all types of shampoos and conditioners over the years, in search for the perfect product. Clients who like a little volume in their hair stay away from rinse out conditioners. However, the Renewing Leave-in spray is great, it allows the hair to be styled easily and doesn't make it limp and flat.
How to create the look
FULL HEAD
Full head application to add glow, neutralise yellowness and improve hair texture.
Milva
72 years old Loves cooking and yoga Milva was 49 and had enough of colouring her hair every two weeks.
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I love my grey. I just want to get rid of the yellow hair.
Milva
Before
After
Hair texture is fine to medium, with some natural darker strands at the back.
There is more yellowness to the areas with a higher percentages of grey.
tep by ste Step by step Toner A
Prepare step 1 30g True Grey Graphite Shimmer Medium + 30g True Grey Activator
Toner B
Prepare step 1 20g True Grey Pearl Mist Light + 20g True Grey Activator + 20g True Grey Clear Conditioning Perfector 2
1
2
3
1
Start by separating the hair. Apply Toner A to the back area, section 1.
30 min
Apply Toner B to the front area. Allow to develop. Trust the process, toners will look dark whilst developing - don’t forget to inform your client! Lastly emulsify, rinse and shampoo. Followed by No 2 True Grey Clear Conditioning Perfector. Leave for up to 3 minutes, to enhance light reflections and creates a soft hair texture for more luminous and manageable looks.
3 min
ommenda Recommendation Grey hair is usually in good condition as it is natural, but it can be soft and fluffy to wiry, or just difficult to manage.
Grey hair needs lightweight care that helps manageability. Often clients buy products for coloured or chemically treated hair, which are too heavy and conditioning. There is no concern of damage as the grey hair is natural! Milva is ingredient conscious, but suffers with a dry and sensitive scalp. The end of her hair also need care and nourishment.
The Calming Serum is ideal for sensitive scalps, it is easy to apply. Recommending the Elements Renewing Mask is a nice treat each week for your client to do at home.
♥
& ELEMENTS
How to create the look
Full Full
H E A D T R E AT M E N T
Full head application to add dimension and neutralise yellowness and improve hair texture.
Teruko
65 years old Loves reading and painting Teruko has amazing textured hair that simply needs beautifying. The front area 100% grey, and the back is 70% grey. Teruko has a long face shape.
Before
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"
I’d love more shine. Hair that really sparkles. And I’d like to have the yellow tone out.
After
Teruko
Dimension is needed at the front greyer areas to create an oval face shape and enhance the eye colour.
More naturally pigmented hairs, at the back, can make the hair appear dry and lacking shine and radiance.
tep by ste Step by step
Toner A
Toner B
Prepare step 1 50g True Grey Steel Glow Medium + 50g True Grey Activator
2
1
3 4
1 2
Prepare step 1 20g True Grey Steel Glow Medium + 20g True Grey Activator + 20g True Grey Clear Conditioning Perfector
Firstly, section the hair in 2 parts. Separating the area underneath where dimension is needed. Apply Toner A to section 1. On section 2. apply Toner A to approximately the first 5cm of the hair. This will add the dimension to the root area. Apply Toner B to the lengths and ends of section 2 and comb through.
30 min
Trust the process, the toner will appear dark during the development time. Don’t forget to mention this to your clients.
Lastly emulsify, rinse and shampoo. Followed by No 2, True Grey Clear Conditioning Perfector. Leave for 3 minutes, to enhance light reflections and creates a soft hair texture for more luminous and manageable looks.
3 min
Tips Tips
F O R C U R LY H A I R T E X T U R E S
"
I have tried all types of products, it's a real challenge to find the right product that suits my hair
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Teruko
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NUTRICURLS Nutricurls lineup is specifically designed for curly and wavy hair needs. It offers a care regime to give curls and waves long-lasting definition, anti-frizz effect, better manageability, luscious softness and bounciness!
Micellar shampoo for curls Nourishing shampoo that provides definition and anti-frizz effect. The micellar technology removes impurities from hair gently without drying out scalp and hair.
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Conditioner Instantly provides lightweight nourishment and definition. The soft detangling formula works in just 30 seconds!
Curlixir balm Nourishing leave-in curl balm for soft hold, definition and bounce. The perfect primer to reveal stunning curls. Apply uniformly to damp hair. Can be also used on dry hair for extra definition.
How to create the look
artial high Partial highs AND LOWS
Enhance the shape of the haircut by adding natural looking dimension to specific areas.
Anja
52 years old She loves sculpting, painting and interior design Anja’s hair has lost definition, and shine, she would suit a violet hue close to her eyes to rejuvenate the skin and make the eyes sparkle.
Before
After
Adding dimension to the nape and sides will frame the face and create contrast when lighter tones meet.
"
"
I preferred my hair a few years ago I had more contrast, it felt more fun!
Anja
By using darker and lighter tones we can add contrast and definition.
tep by ste Step by step
Toner A
Toner B
Prepare step 1 20g True Grey Pearl Mist Dark + 20g True Grey Activator
2
Prepare step 1 20g True Grey Pearl Mist Light + 20g True Grey Activator
1
Apply Toner A to the nape to add dimension.
In triangle sections pivot around the crown area, place Toner A at the top triangle and leaving the bottom triangle natural.
3
Visually apply freehand Toner A to the sides.
tep by ste Step by step
4
Apply Toner B to the top.
30 min To enhance and add contrast apply Toner A to the natural dark area at the front, leave to develop for 30 minutes. Trust the process Toners will look dark.
5
Lastly emulsify, rinse and shampoo. Followed by No 2 True Grey Clear Conditioning Perfector. Leave for 3 minutes, to create a soft hair texture for more manageable looks.
3 min
3
HINTS AND TIPS
nts and ti 1 2 3 4 Hints and Tips
Use simple application steps, no need for foils or fine and delicate weaves. This quick service is profitable for the salon, and effortless for the client.
products are designed to be used together. Do not mix products with any other colour or developers.
Graphite Shimmer Light, applied to Pre-Lightened hair.
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on naturally grey hair. Only use Pre-bleach, coloured and permed hair has a very high level of porosity, jeopardising an even oxidation of the dyes. This will create patchy and uneven results.
Graphite Shimmer Light, applied to natural grey hair.
To create playful hues, use dark toners to add contrast and tone on high percentages of grey hair.
Q&A Q&A
?
Why do the Toners go dark during the development time?
This is due to the nature of the dyes used when formulating . The oxidation of the toning mass during development time will not impact the end result, it is important to respect the full development time with confidence. Just trust the process.
Can heat be used?
?
Using heat like a Climazon will reduce the development time. 30 min
without heat
20 min
with heat
The use of heat can be positive especially for those salons that would like to reduce development time. PLEASE NOTE when using a Wella Professionals Climazone please place the Silver Glow Treatment under a Demi or Treatment setting.
How can I remove
?
?
Technology uses oxidative dyes and can simply be removed with Color Renew. Mix Color Renew Crystal Powder and Color Renew Activator liquid with a mixing ratio 1:10 e.g. one 9g sachet of Color Renew Crystal Powder with 90 ml Activator, apply and develop visually. Rinse, shampoo and proceed with styling. PLEASE NOTE that Color Renew can also be applied to the beard and eye brows.
Upgrade Upgrading your cutting client to a Silver Glow service using True Grey.
On the day Cut/Blow dry upgrade
If you have excited your client about what a Silver Glow service can do for their hair, make sure to use the True Grey Perfector for 3 minutes after the shampoo service to leave your clients hair feeling more manageable with maximum shine. This will help lock in the excitement for their Silver Glow service. Follow the Wella Professionals Allergy Allert Test process.
Remember
You can test up to 4 toners on the day of the skin test which is great as it still allows for creativity with the toners.
Allergy Communication
How to communicate why you need to do an allergy alert test for your client?
We understand that sometimes it’s hard to communicate to a client why they may need a allergy alert test, especially when you are talking about a NEW product like True Grey that is not a colour but a treatment. We have created the below to help with that conversation.
Why do we do an Allergy Alert Test? Just like your skin, your hair and scalp are changing all the time. The things that can affect the hair and scalp like underlying medical conditions, medications, absorption of nutrition and menopause often lead to changes in the hair and scalp. This can make the scalp tender or itchy, susceptible to ashes and/or dry scaly patches. Changes in the metabolism can also be reflected by changes in the quality of the hair, its thickness and texture of the hair. Sensitivity to various cosmetic or beauty products may happen even if your client has not been affected before, and some people may become sensitive to hair colour, even if they have not been before . Allegy testing in the beauty world is widely used, for example, before we go for laser treatments or eyelash extensions, a professional therapist will insist on an allergy alert test for the clients wellbeing and in the hair world this is just the same. Allergic reactions to hair dye can happen at any time, and the allergy alert test is simple and quick, yet helps to identify any potential reaction your client may have, and it helps to identify any potential sensitivity your client may experience. It puts us as hairdressers in a good starting place to be able to create beautiful hair colour that we wish to give clients and through this your clients can relax knowing it will be the safest for their hair and scalp.
Allergy Allergy ALERT TEST
Like any product using oxidative dyes the risk of an allergic reaction when using exists. That’s why you should always perform an allergy alert test 48 hours before any services.
1
Mix 5g of the chosen Toner during your conversation with 5g of Activator.
3 1
cm2
Leave the Toner uncovered for 45 minutes. Then rinse the area with lukewarm water and pat dry with a clean towel.
2
Apply the Toner directly onto the crook of he elbow approximately 1 square centimeter.
48 hours
4
Ask the client to come back to the salon after 48h or call you to inform you of the result.
Ask your client to leave the test area undisturbed for 48 hours. If there are any sighs of redness, burning or itching the product must not be applied. The client must seek medical advice before toning her hair again. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colourants you should not tone.
Allergy Allergy questionnaire ALERT TEST
If the client answers “NO” to all the questions, your can proceed with the toning service on this occasion without doing an Allergy Alert Test. Complete the client record card confirming all the toning service details.
QUESTIONS
QUESTIONS
1 Has your client ever had an allergic reaction to any hair colourant product?
1 Is this a new client for your salon or are you using a different brand/shade than normal?
2 Has your cient ever had an allergic reaction to any type of skin tattoo, including henna or to permanent make-up? 3 Does your client have a sensitive, itchy or damaged scalp (e.g. suffer from eczema or psoriasis of the scalp)? 4 Is your client currently taking any medication to treat allergies? If answered with yes to any question – stop Explain to your client that you cannot tone the hair unless they first get advice from their doctor
2 Has it been more than 6 months since your client last had a colour in your salon? 3 Is is more than 12 months since your client’s last allergy alert test? 4 Has you client had any type of skin tattoo, including henna or permanent make-up, since their last colour services? 5 Has you client had an allergic reaytion to any products since their last colour service? If answered with yes to any question – warning Carry out an allergy alert test.
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