Food Magazine July / August 2023

FOOD

Issue 197

Published June 2023

food‑mag.co.uk

Instagram foodmagazinesw

 food_mag

Facebook‑F foodmagazinesw

PUBLISHER

Salt Media ideas@saltmedia.co.uk 01271 859299 saltmedia.co.uk

The South West is beautiful all year round, but its vibrant colours are boosted into high-definition when viewed through summer's rays.

EDITOR

Kathryn Lewis

EDITORIAL

Abi Manning

Melissa Morris

Rosanna Rothery

Melissa Stewart

Selena Young

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Jo Rees

ADVERTISING

Nick Cooper

Claire Fegan

Jeni Smith 01271 859182

PUBLISHING

Charlotte Cummins

Tamsin Powell

ACCOUNTS

Richard Bailey

PHOTOGRAPHY

Kieran Brimson, Sam Harris, John Hersey Studio, Nick Hook, Nick Pumphrey, Nik Read, Kate Whitaker

COVER

John Hersey Studio

THANKS

Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports the South West's food and hospitality industry.

COPYRIGHT

The contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission.

DISCLAIMER

While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.

PRINT

We're serious about protecting the planet, which is why we print using solvent-free inks on FSC®-certified paper, working with a printer that holds ISO14001 certification for environmental good practice.

The weeks of uninterrupted sunshine at the end of spring got the Food team so excited about alfresco suppers, beach trips and dusting off the barbecue that this issue is packed with places to visit, things to grill and eating-out inspo.

Jo caught up with Nathan Outlaw to find out about his new book, Fish For Dinner, and learnt how to overcome the fear of cooking fish on the barbie (page 40).

Rosanna's also been chinwagging with one of Cornwall's culinary high-flyers. Great British Menu champion of champions Adam Handling revealed why he's over the term ‘fine dining’ and what lured him to the South West (page 10).

HiSelena shares her must-visit venues for a greedy weekend in St Ives (page 24). The ever-popular staycation destination bustles in summer, so it's worth taking note of her recs and booking sharpish.

Elsewhere in the region, I visit Exeter's creative brunch spot (page 34), Abi rounds up the best beachside eats for fish-forward feasting with a side of sea views (page 36), and Jo roadtests South West Wine School's WSET Level 2 course (page 38). Enjoy the issue.

Kathryn Lewis

Follow us on Instagram foodmagazinesw

St Ives staycation guide

Masterchef: The Professionals Winner & Chef Patron Cleaver & Wake, Nottingham

Start your culinary journey with us

The Ashburton Cookery School & Chefs Academy is one of the UK’s leading private culinary schools and has trained hundreds of aspiring chefs to cook with skill, creativity and passion.

Chefs like Laurence Henry, who graduated from our Diploma in Culinary Arts programme before launching his career as a chef working his way up

though the ranks. After being crowned winner of BBC MasterChef: The Professionals in 2018, he is now Chef Patron of Cleaver & Wake, an exciting new fine dining restaurant in Nottingham.

Whether you want to become an accomplished chef, start a food business or launch a career in food, your journey starts in Ashburton.

Laurence Henry

The Food team's pick of South West products.

Latest foodie news and events. 10

Rebel with a cause

Chef Adam Handling's defiant take on luxury modern dining.

Recreate coffee-shop recipes at home. 24

Where to eat, drink, stay and shop in St Ives.

Eating out across the region.

Nathan Outlaw takes the fear out of cooking fish over flame.

54 WIN

Three epicurean staycation experiences are up for grabs.

Foraging pro Neal Chainey on his favourite wild finds.

Eat and drink like a local

The Food team share their seasonal picks from South West producers

3 Creamo's Craft Ice Cream, Devon

‘Bored of the ubiquitous vanilla cone? If you're willing to embrace icy refreshments with a twist then head to the little shack tucked away at the bottom of St Lawrence Lane in Ashburton,’ says features editor Rosanna Rothery.

‘Cones from Creamo's definitely have added cool. Zinging flavours such as lemon thyme crème brûlée, and fruity thrills like blackcurrant, plum and almond streusel, put humdrum options in the shade. The best part is that these small‑batch scoops are made with top‑notch local ingredients including Riverford organic milk and cream.’

Single scoop from £3 creamos.co.uk

1 The Real Grain sourdough and Lucho Bakes cinnamon and raisin loaf, both Devon

‘Good bread, like good coffee, is one of life's daily pleasures and deserves attention. I've recently picked up some fabulous sourdough at Darts Farm, which was baked by a microbakery in Honiton called The Real Grain. The loaves are baked dark to deliver a lovely chewy, umami crust. I also recently found a cinnamon and raisin loaf from a tiny bakery in north Devon called Lucho Bakes. Toasted, liberally buttered and accompanied by a flat white, it's as good a way to start the day as I can think of,' says editorial director Jo Rees.

dartsfarm.co.uk

luchobakes.com

2 Dune Hazy Pale Ale, Driftwood Spars Brewery, Cornwall

‘There's no better way to end a day on the beach than by cracking open a can of cold beer. This new hazy pale from Driftwood Spars Brewery in St Agnes is smooth and fruity with a subtle tropical twist –perfect for post‑surf refreshment,’ says editor Kathryn Lewis.

‘It's inspired by the unique ecosystem within the sand dunes that neighbour the brewery, and a percentage of profits from every beer sold is donated to support efforts to remove plastic and discarded fishing gear from the Cornish coast.’

Cans from £4.50

driftwoodsparsbrewery.com

4 Ebb Tides Seaweed Shakers, Devon

‘Living near the coast, I really should know more about seaweed,’ says features writer Abi Manning. ‘I'm planning on taking part in a seaweed foraging course this summer – there are a number to choose from here in north Devon – but in the meantime, I'm using these kelp, dulse and sea salad seaweed shakers from Ebb Tides in Sidmouth to get a briny fix. They're all hand‑harvested in Devon, so it's the closest you can get to picking the seaweed yourself.

‘The rich and smoky dulse is delish shaken onto meat before cooking, while the seaweed salad blends sea lettuce, dulse and laver to add a delicately peppery note to salads and fish.’

Individual shakers £5.50

ebbtides.co.uk

5 Hollis Mead Organic Natural Yoghurt, Dorset

‘Top‑quality yogurt, fresh seasonal fruit, homemade granola and a drizzle of runny honey is an unbeatable breakfast combo,’ says features writer Selena Young. ‘Delivering the yogurty goods in my brekkie bowl is this velvety number from Dorset dairy Hollis Mead.

‘It's made with the milk of cows that graze on the organic farm's wildflower‑rich meadows, resulting in a subtly sweet yogurt made without thickeners or stabilisers.’

300g pot £5

hollismead.co.uk

We think you might like ...

Want to discover more local gems this summer? You're in luck as Taste East Devon Festival returns on September 9-24.

Over 16 days, regional chefs, artisan producers and indie food and drink businesses will host a series of events as part of the unique food festival – ranging from brewery open days to seafood feasts and barbecue parties. Lots of familiar faces are getting involved this year, including Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Michael Caines (pictured above).

Head to the Taste East Devon Festival website to see what's on and book tickets.

tasteeastdevon.co.uk

The Hit List

The latest foodie news and events for your calendar

1 | ACE AFTERNOON TEA

Fans of both tennis and afternoon tea will want to swing by Boringdon Hall near Plymouth this summer. From July 1-16, the historic hotel will put a Wimbledon spin on its acclaimed afternoon tea in honour of the annual tennis tournament.

2 | BLANK CANVAS FOR BROOMHILL

Broomhill Estate in north Devon will reopen its new-look restaurant, Canvas, on July 14. Visitors to the boutique art hotel can expect an immersive dining experience, care of head chef Elio Debae, and choose from three-course and signature tasting-menu options.

3 | SOMERSET TRAILBLAZERS

The Somerset Food Trail returns on July 14-30 to shine a light on the county's small-scale artisan producers. From biodynamic vineyards and apple orchards to cheese dairies and bakeries, a plethora of venues will host immersive food and drink experiences. Check the website for the full list of participating venues (190 and counting) and planned events.

4 | DIM SUM DEMO

Want to know how to make dim sum at home? Book a spot at Bristol's Cooking It on July 18 and learn to craft all kinds of delicious dim sum, including steamed, fried, meaty and veggie varieties. The cookery school is BYOB, so attendees are welcome to take a bevvie or two to enjoy during the class. Course £70.

5 | BEATS AND BIVALVES

Rock Oyster Festival returns to the banks of the Camel Estuary in Cornwall on July 27-30 with a cracking bill of chefs, live music and activities. Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall, Mark Hix, Emily Scott and Andi Oliver are on the chef line-up, plus there'll be funky tunes from headliners Groove Armada, Nile Rodgers & Chic and Sophie Ellis-Bextor. Weekend tickets from £135.

6 | FAMILY-FRIENDLY FEST

For a summer's day out the whole family can enjoy, head to Weymouth Food & Family Festival at Lodmoor Country Park on July 29-30. Highlights include cookery demos, food and drink stalls, and a chilli-eating challenge. Tickets from £3.50.

7 | CHOW DOWN AT CHEW

Chew Valley Lake will become party HQ on August 3-5 when Valley Fest draws crowds of food and music lovers to the scenic spot near Bristol and Bath. Join the fun and get down to beats from Soul II Soul, The Kooks and Bananarama, and tuck into festival fodder at feasts hosted by local chefs such as Josh Eggleton and Peter Sanchez-Iglesias. Tickets from £60.

8 | B-READY

Get your breadmaking skills up to scratch in time for Sourdough September by joining Coombeshead Farm's masterclass on August 5. At the guesthouse and farm in Launceston, attendees will be guided through the entire process from maintaining a sourdough starter to proving, shaping and baking a loaf. Course, including lunch, £130.

9 | SMOKING HOT

For a special outdoor dining experience, don't miss Daylesford Farm's Fire Pit Chef's Table Supper on August 5. Guests can relax with drinks and nibbles in the Gloucestershire market garden as the chefs cook supper over open fire. The meal, crafted from organic ingredients, will be matched with wines from the farm's estate in Provence. Tickets £125.

10 | FIZZ FRIDAY

Is there a better place to spend a balmy Friday evening than a beautiful vineyard in Dorset? On August 11, Langham Wine Estate will serve a feast of succulent Portland lobster with matched drops from the winery and sea shanties from The Dorset Wrecks. Tickets £50.

11 | BE BUDE NOT TO

Make tracks to The Castle in Bude on August 13 with an empty tote and tum, ready to fill both at Bude Food Festival. Browse food stalls from regional producers such as Exmoor Tea Co, Riverford and Freda's Peanut Butter, then hit up the vendors for freshly cooked street food and local tipples.

12 | PARTY LIKE IT'S 1999

Music and food lovers alike will want to snap up tickets for Big Feastival, which takes place at Alex James' Cotswolds farm on August 25-27. The Blur bassist will open his gates for a weekend of eating, dancing and revelry, and has invited chefs such as Simon Stallard, James Strawbridge and Nathan Outlaw to lead the party alongside artists Sigrid, Tom Grennan and Blossoms. Tickets from £93.50.

13 | FRESH WINE FIND

A luxury Wine Barn, complete with indoor/outdoor dining area and artisan farm shop and deli, is set to open in Stroud this summer. Specialist wine merchant Vinotopia Wine is behind the new food and drink destination in leafy Nailsworth, which will feature over 400 varieties of vino, craft spirits and beers. Plans are also afoot for tasting events and pop-up feasts.

with a cause Rebel

Adam Handling's take on modern high-end cooking is gutsy, innovative and unapologetically British – just don't call it fine dining, says Rosanna Rothery

Ugly Butterfly, perched above Cornwall's spectacular Carbis Bay, is Great British Menu champion of champions Adam Handling's first restaurant outside the South East and where, in 2021, he cooked for some of the most powerful people on the planet at the G7 summit.

The restaurant and bar is the dynamic Scottish chef's fourth venture in a portfolio that includes Michelinstarred Frog by Adam Handling and Eve Bar, both in Covent Garden, and The Loch & Tyne in Old Windsor.

Still only 34, Adam attacks his work with the kind of drive that resulted in him winning this year's Trencherman's Award for Creativity and Innovation, landing the big prize on Great British Menu 2023 and earning Restaurateur of the Year in the GQ Food and Drink Awards 2020.

We quizzed him on sustainable British cooking, his abhorrence of the term ‘fine dining’, and the future of the hospitality industry.

‘I couldn’t care less what strangers say about me’

WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE CARBIS BAY IN CORNWALL AS THE SITE FOR YOUR FIRST RESTAURANT OUTSIDE LONDON?

I was blown away by the stunning location; it's one of the most amazing places in the country.

HAVE YOU ALWAYS HAD YOUR EYE ON CORNWALL?

I'd never even been to Cornwall. Our restaurant group is always expanding and, as a lot of our produce is sourced from Cornwall, two of our senior team, Jamie and George, suggested we look to open our next venture there. We knew we wanted to be invested in the project through the heart, not the bank balance, and when I saw the location I fell in love with it.

WHAT'S THE KEY TO SUCCESS IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY?

A good restaurant needs to be relaxed. I can't stand the phrase ‘fine dining’. It's very stigmatising and associated with being posh or splashing around a lot of money. I think the description is silly, but a restaurant doing everything in the correct way is automatically branded as that.

I'm a chef but I'm also a restaurateur, so I'm always looking at the bigger picture. It's not just about a plate of food any more: it's the whole dining experience. As much as they are luxurious, our restaurants are very relaxed and all about having a great time.

WHICH FOOD TRENDS DO YOU EMBRACE?

I think the sentiment of being proud to be British is getting stronger all the time. I love that chefs are using ingredients in new ways. The rules have been completely skewed and it's a way of cooking that's still in its infancy.

During Queen Victoria's reign, Britain was pretty powerful so it became lazy and brought in some of the best chefs and products from around the world. Nowadays, we are feeling the pinch and Britain is cooking for itself again. We're opening a debate about what British food actually is.

WHAT DOES BRITISH FOOD MEAN TO YOU?

Turn the pages of any classic British cookbook and it's got French terms in it. That's not British food.

Throughout history, our culinary repertoire has been linked to power. Any nation that takes over another country influences their cuisine. Even the word ‘cuisine’ is French - there's no direct translation for it in English. Now we're in a period of history where no one is going to take over the UK and we are not doing bad things around the world, so it's time to stand on our own two feet.

British food is all about utilising everything we have on the islands and using every part of each product. The new rulebook for British cooking is just being sketched out; it'll take years before it's fully realised. That's what makes it so exciting and I'm super proud to be a part of it.

THE UK HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY IS UNDER PRESSURE - WHAT CAN BE DONE TO HELP IT?

We only have pressure because everyone is focusing on the negatives. At the moment everyone is talking about the hospitality industry facing more problems than any other sector, but if we stop doing that the industry will have an opportunity to pick itself up.

DO YOU THINK HOSPITALITY CAN STILL ATTRACT PROMISING TALENT AMID STAFF SHORTAGES?

As much as I love being British, this country loves to moan and focus on negativity. I'm all about being positive in life, because hospitality has so many working conditions and factors that are a lot better than some other industries.

A starting salary for a chef in a restaurant is between £27,000 and £30,000 – how much does a new teacher earn, for example? Yet everyone keeps banging on that the industry is struggling. If we keep spouting negativity and jumping on that bandwagon, hospitality will never progress.

AFTER TWO PREVIOUS ATTEMPTS YOU WERE CROWNED CHAMPION OF CHAMPIONS ON GREAT BRITISH MENU – WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM THAT EXPERIENCE?

I learnt that if I can't achieve something, I'll try again and again – and then try some more. I'm a great believer that if you don't succeed in something then the answer is to adapt, get stronger and come back fighting. Don't say ‘If I come back, I'll see how it goes and if I don't succeed that's alright’. No, fight for what you want in life. Go out there kicking and screaming and give it your all.

‘Fight for what you want in life. Go out there kicking and screaming and give it your all’

‘The term 'fine dining' is very stigmatising’

HOW MUCH PREPARATION DID YOU DO FOR GBM?

You don't enter a competition like that if you haven't practised your socks off for months in advance – it's on national TV! You can either trip up and make yourself look like an amateur or you can show the world that, despite losing twice before, you're not giving up.

WHAT ARE THE BEST AND WORST THINGS ABOUT BEING ON TV?

It's a great platform for educating people about zero-waste cooking. It also fills our restaurants – there's no better marketing tool. You have to be prepared for the Twitter warriors though. Whether you do well or not, they are going to comment. You need to be strong minded and not worry about what they say. I wasn't like that at the beginning but now I couldn't care less what strangers say about me. As long as I make my friends, family, team and guests proud, then I'm happy.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR MOST RECENT BOOK, WHY WASTE?

It features great recipes and a foraging guide, and flies the flag for British cooking. It's about crafting spectacular dishes from ingredients that grow in the UK, as well as the food items we tend to waste. The most exciting thing is that it shows you how to use British ingredients to replicate products from across the world. For instance, how to make soy sauce from leftover bread or how to use locally foraged meadowsweet to replace vanilla and tonka beans.

Ugly Butterfly

‘The new rulebook for British cooking is just being sketched out; it'll take years before it's fully realised’

culture Cafe

The South West coffee scene is buzzing as cafes up their gourmet game to match the quality of their drinks. Four coffee shops and roasteries share their hero-dish recipes so you can create a slice of cafe culture at home

Eggy crumpets with chilli jam and halloumi

Recipe by Charlie Ingle of Wayland's Yard in Worcester

Serves 5

For the chilli jam: Red peppers 3, deseeded and roughly chopped

Large red chillies 2, deseeded and roughly chopped

Light brown soft sugar 60g

Apple cider vinegar 225ml Smoked paprika ¾ tsp

For the eggy crumpets: Free-range eggs 6

Milk 55ml

Chilli flakes ½ tsp

Dried thyme 1 tsp

Salt and pepper to taste

Cooking oil ⅔ tbsp

Crumpets 10

To serve:

Halloumi 400g, sliced diagonally into triangles

Chives small bunch, finely sliced

Spring onions small bunch, finely sliced

Red chillies 2, finely sliced

1 For the chilli jam: put all the ingredients in a deep saucepan over a medium heat, mix well and bring to a simmer. Stir occasionally and cook until the peppers and chillies are soft and have started to darken. You'll know it's ready when the mixture continues to bubble for around 30 seconds when the pan is removed from the heat.

2 Leave the chilli jam to cool for 10 minutes. Then, while still warm, blend using a stick blender or food processor. Blitz until it's reached the desired consistency – it can be as smooth or chunky as you like.

3 Once the jam has cooled completely, pour it into a jar or tub and store in the fridge. It will keep for a week.

4 For the eggy crumpets: crack the eggs into a large bowl. Whisk in the milk, chilli flakes, dried thyme and salt and pepper until combined.

5 Drizzle oil into a large frying pan and place over a medium-high heat. Rotate the pan to spread the oil evenly.

6 One at a time, submerge the crumpets in the egg mixture, ensuring they are fully saturated.

7 Transfer the crumpets from the bowl to the pan, placing them hole-side-down. Push them down using the back of a spatula and reduce the heat to medium. Leave them to cook for 2–3 minutes or until they are golden brown, then flip over and repeat on the other side. Give them a final squeeze with the spatula to ensure they're cooked through – if any egg oozes out, turn down the heat and cook for a further minute on each side.

8 To serve: while the crumpets are cooking, place a drizzle of oil in a separate pan over a medium heat. Once hot, add the halloumi and cook until golden brown on each side. Set aside.

9 Place a large tablespoon of chilli jam in the centre of each plate and spread it with the back of the spoon. Place 2 crumpets on top, then the halloumi and finish with a sprinkle of chives, spring onions and chilli.

waylandsyard.com

Veggie frittata

Recipe by Kate Snell of Bread & Butter in Truro

Serves 6

New potatoes a handful, chopped

Olive oil

Free-range eggs 12 large

Sea salt 1 tsp

Chipotle chilli flakes ½ tsp

Dried mixed herbs 1 tsp

Black pepper to season

Grated cheddar or crumbled feta 2 tbsp

Leek ¼, chopped

Spring onions

2, chopped

Cherry tomatoes a handful

Turmeric powder ¼ tsp

Any other vegetables ribboned courgettes, roasted red peppers, spinach (stalks removed)

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C / gas 4. Put the potatoes on a roasting tray, drizzle with olive oil and roast in the oven until lightly browned and cooked through.

2 Crack the eggs into a large bowl and whisk well.

3 Add the salt, chilli flakes, herbs and a few generous grinds of pepper. Mix well.

4 Add the roasted potatoes, cheese, leek, onions, tomatoes, turmeric and any extra vegetables. Gently stir to combine.

5 Line a 23 × 28cm baking tray with baking parchment then fill with the frittata mix.

6 Cook in the oven for 20 minutes, then rotate the tray and cook for another 10–15 minutes. Test the frittata with a knife to ensure it's cooked all the way through. Cut into slices and serve with crisp salad or homemade baked beans.

breadandbuttertruro.com

3

all-day-brunch venues

The Larder, Brixham

The flat whites at this Brixham coffee shop are great, but visiting without ordering something to eat would be like opening the biscuit tin and leaving empty handed.

The team use top-notch seasonal ingredients to compile tempting brunch dishes, such as the delicious mushroom benny (English muffin topped with garlicky wild mushrooms and homemade hollandaise) and halloumi shawarma with tzatziki and pickled cucumber.

Tincan Coffee Co., Bristol

In keeping with Tincan's brilliantly Bristolian ethos, its two coffee shops in the city source almost everything from nearby producers –including the coffee.

The food menu changes with the season, but expect dishes such as poached eggs with pea guacamole, chimichurri, chilli and marinated feta alongside staples like cheese toasties and breakfast buns.

Botanica, Cheltenham

An industrial estate on the outskirts of Cheltenham isn't the first place you'd expect to find a leafy oasis of caffeine, calm and crazy-delicious brunch dishes, but this coffee shop and kitchen in Bramery Business Park is no mirage.

All-day brunch dishes range from classics, such as next-level full English with homemade rosti and rustic beans, to house specials like babka french toast and baja cauliflower tacos.

Piña colada cake

Recipe by Samantha Warwick of Strong Adolfos near Wadebridge

Serves 10-12

20cm round cake tins 3

For the cake: Desiccated coconut 110g

Unsalted butter 260g, softened

Soft light brown sugar 260g

Vanilla bean paste 1 tsp

Free-range eggs 5

Self-raising flour 260g

Baking powder 1½ tsp

Pineapple chunks 432g tin, drained (juice reserved) and blitzed in a food processor

For the sugar syrup: Caster sugar 50g

Water 50ml

Reserved pineapple juice or dark rum 1 tbsp

For the icing:

Unsalted butter 80g, softened

Icing sugar 400g

Mascarpone 150g

Vanilla bean paste ½ tsp

Reserved pineapple juice or dark rum 1 tsp

White chocolate 75g, melted and cooled

Optional decorations: Desiccated coconut

Edible flowers

Dehydrated pineapple slices

Lime zest

Fresh mint leaves

1 For the cake: preheat the oven to 180°C / gas 4. Grease the cake tins and line with baking parchment.

2 Spread the desiccated coconut on a baking tray. Toast in the oven for 3–5 minutes until just starting to bronze. Keep an eye on it as it can burn quickly. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

3 Using a stand mixer or electric whisk, beat the butter, sugar and vanilla until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, adding a tablespoon of the flour between each egg to prevent the mixture from curdling.

4 Using a spatula, carefully fold in the remaining flour, baking powder and 75g of the cooled toasted coconut. Once combined, fold in the blitzed pineapple.

5 Split the mixture evenly between the three cake tins and bake for approximately 25 minutes until the sponges are springy to the touch and skewers come out clean. Remove from the oven and put on a wire rack to cool (still in tins).

6 For the sugar syrup: put the sugar and water in a small saucepan over a low heat. Once all the sugar granules have dissolved, remove from the heat and add the reserved pineapple juice or dark rum.

7 Once the cakes have slightly cooled, lightly prick the surface of the sponges with a cocktail stick and liberally brush the syrup over them using a pastry brush. Leave the cakes in the tins to cool completely.

8 For the icing: put the butter, icing sugar, mascarpone, vanilla and pineapple juice or dark rum in a mixing bowl. Using a stand mixer or electric whisk, mix the icing until it's light and fluffy. Add the melted white chocolate and combine.

9 To assemble: place one of the cakes on a cake stand or a plate. Using a piping bag or palette knife, evenly spread ⅓ of the icing on top. Layer with another cake and icing, then repeat.

10 Decorate the top of the cake with the remaining toasted coconut and any optional extras.

strongadolfos.com

3

of the best

roastery-cafes to visit Origin Coffee Roasters, Porthleven

Origin Coffee Roasters is at the core of Cornwall's speciality coffee scene and the roastery-cafe at its HQ in Porthleven is the beating heart of the operation.

This is somewhere you can get really close to the coffeeroasting action: an expanse of glass behind the counter is all that divides the bronzing beans from their destiny in your cup.

Crankhouse Coffee/130 Basement, Exeter

There's no questioning the freshness of the coffee and bakes at this Fore Street favourite, as visitors get a live-action stream of cakes emerging from the open kitchen and beans chugging away in the adjoining roastery.

Head roaster Dave Stanton experiments with a huge selection of single origins and the Basement crew get first pick of the crop, so you'll always find something fresh and funky to try.

Sweven, Bristol

Bristol isn't short on great places to enjoy good coffee, but if you're looking for a next-level speciality experience this is where you'll find it.

In 2022, Sweven founders Jimmy and Aga Dimitrov opened a roastery in Long Ashton and now supply the coffee shop (and a legion of adventurous home brewers) with rare and expressive beans.

Find more recipes from the UK's best independent coffee shops and roasteries in the Indy Cafe Cookbook Volume 2

£20

indycoffee.guide

Find more great places to drink speciality coffee and chow down on delicious dishes in The South & South Wales Independent Coffee Guide

£9.99

indycoffee.guide

The Pilot Burner

Recipe by Roastworks Coffee Co. and The Lost Kitchen, both in Devon

Serves 1

For the coffee syrup: Filter coffee 40g, ground

Demerara sugar 100g

Water 100ml

For the cocktail:

Coffee syrup 25ml

High-quality bourbon 50ml

Bitters 4 dashes

Ice cube 1 large

Optional garnish: Orange peel a twist

Fresh rosemary a sprig

Soda water a splash, to taste

1 For the coffee syrup: put all the ingredients in a saucepan over a medium heat and slowly bring to a simmer.

2 Once the mixture is gently simmering, remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 5 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and leave to cool (any excess coffee syrup will last for up to 1 month in an airtight container in the fridge).

3 For the cocktail: pour the coffee syrup, bourbon and bitters into a glass. Add the ice and stir well using a cocktail stirrer.

4 Garnish with a twist of orange peel and a sprig of fresh rosemary. Add a splash of soda water if you want to make it a longer drink.

roastworks.co.uk

St Ives

White‑sand beaches and a world‑class art gallery along with boutique hotels, restaurants and wine bars create a landscape for a culture‑rich staycation. Selena Young discovers some hospitality masterpieces worth checking out

Where to stay

Those who pick a hotel based on the number of exciting facilities it provides will love Carbis Bay Estate. The G7‑hosting hotel features the full complement of bells and whistles, including a private 25‑acre beach, luxury spa, smorgasbord of quality dining options, and accommodation that ranges from suites to beach houses and coastal cottages.

Another resort delivering plenty of things to do is Una St Ives, set in countryside on the edge of town. Book one of its contemporary villas or lodges to unwind in Scandi‑styled rooms, dine alfresco on the terrace and bubble away your stresses in your private hot tub. Additional perks include poolside drinks and laps in the heated outdoor pool followed by slices of wood‑fired pizza at Una Kitchen.

If swimming pools don't appeal but interior‑mag‑worthy aesthetics do, Harbour View House will tick the box. Sweeping vistas of St Ives' glittering harbour provide splashes of azure beyond the interiors' muted palette of white and tan. Don't miss the chance to visit its cafe, which morphs from brunch spot to bar depending on the time of day. Morning visits deliver brunch burritos and Origin coffee, while evenings are all about the tacos, charcuterie and cocktails (its bartenders make a mean Mezcalita).

Fans of the luxe home‑from‑home vibe should check out Host St Ives. The converted Victorian bank features two open‑plan suites with exposed‑stone walls, roll‑top tubs and log burners. Local artwork decorates the walls, while views over Tregenna Hill contribute further visual thrills as you curl up in a king‑size bed. Downstairs, wood‑fired pizza and cocktails await.

If you're visiting with the family in tow, consider an escape to Tregenna Castle, situated just out of the hubbub on Trelyon Avenue. An abundance of amenities, space and attractive accommodation makes it an ideal base for a multi‑generational getaway.

Just round the corner on beautiful Porthminster Beach is Harbour Hotel. The St Ives outpost of this smart hotel group is a stylish choice for those who want to eat, drink, sleep and spa in an incredible setting.

Una St Ives

Host St Ives

Harbour View House

Where to eat

St Ives may be small but it carries clout on the UK culinary map, so booking tables in advance of your trip is essential. Ugly Butterfly Restaurant and Bar is one of the must‑dos (read our interview with exec chef Adam Handling on page 10). Sustainability and zero waste form the crux of the Great British Menu champion of champions' seasonal menus. Choose between the five‑ and seven‑course versions for attractive and creative compilations such as scallops, squash and chilli, and guinea fowl, wild garlic and lemon thyme. Also at Carbis Bay, but on beach level, is Walter's On The Beach. Pay a visit to experience glamour and theatre via moody lighting, intricate dishes and cool cocktails.

Closer to town is a collection of beachside eateries delivering quality coastal dining throughout the day. Porthmeor Beach Cafe is a casual spot where you can rock up in sandy linen and tuck into tapas. If you want to dine alfresco but there's a breeze, request one of its heated outdoor pods – it's easier to appreciate a plate of saffron arancini, crushed peas and whipped feta when you're not chasing a flying napkin.

Head towards the west end of Porthmeor Beach for laid‑back‑yet‑elevated seafood scoffing at The Fish Shed Sustainably caught seafood takes a starring role in fuss‑free dishes from chef‑owner Fraser Bruce and team.

On the opposite side of the headland, contemporary bistro Porthminster Kitchen delivers knockout seafood dishes against a live‑action view of the town's bustling harbour. Visit for beautifully executed classics such as freshly grilled fish, and seafood linguine with crab, mussels, prawns, lemon and chilli.

For a next‑level brunch bag a table at Source Kitchen, which lures late‑risers for mid‑morning Mimosas and handmade flatbreads piled with labneh, chilli jam and coriander. The main draw, however, is the menu of small plates which is frequently switched up to reflect what's fresh from the local larder. Tussle with your dining companions for the last bite of the likes of grilled radicchio, kale, blood orange and hazelnut, and roasted Cornish potatoes with mojo verde.

If you're planning just one special dinner out, let public opinion sway you and head to intimate harbourside restaurant One Fish Street, recently voted Best Restaurant in the Food Reader Awards 2023. Its eight‑course tasting menu is designed around the local catch and features dishes such as monkfish with masala sauce and smoked yogurt. Curated wine pairings provide the opportunity to sample organic and biodynamic drops from small vineyards.

Porthminster Kitchen

Walter's on the Beach

The Fish Shed

Where to drink

Good days begin with good coffee, and a belter of a brew is guaranteed at Yallah. Look for the blue harbourside kiosk for a 'spro to go, or head inside the cafe to explore the range of own‑roasted single‑origin coffees in more depth.

Another indie cafe deserving of attention is The Yellow Canary Cafe on Fore Street. Visit for Origin‑roasted coffee and stick around for fresh cinnamon buns and pastries.

Neighbourhood bar and bottle shop Little Palais is the place to be when the sun dips below the horizon, as that's when corks are pulled on natural wine bottles and the vinyl set spinning. The bijou bar operates a walk‑in‑only set‑up for those looking to explore its new‑wave wine list and off‑piste cocktails. The Fifth –a spin on a Dirty Martini and comprising house‑made gin, fermented mango, honey, chilli and salt –is a great call.

Further fun awaits at St Eia. The backstreet wine bar, bistro and store features a daily changing list of wines by the glass plus an extensive selection of unusual finds. The line‑up of ingredient‑led small plates provides great grazing material to offset the alcohol.

Silco Bar + Kitchen is just the spot for kicking back with a local beer or craft G&T after a day of shopping or coastal adventuring. Perch on one of the outdoor benches or settle indoors and let experienced staff guide you through the crowd‑pleasing food and drink menu.

Where to shop

St Ives has long been a stimulating place to immerse oneself in the joys of creativity. Discover modern art at Tate St Ives, potter around the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden and admire local artwork at contemporary gallery Livingstone St. Ives

If you're feeling inspired by St Ives' bustling art scene, you can even put paint to paper yourself at St Ives School of Painting. The school has welcomed novices and experienced artists since 1938.

Make time for a little shopping spree at the indie boutiques and lifestyle stores that dot the town. Fawn over cool homeware, kidswear and accessories at Malu Moon, source vintage clothing you don't need but desperately want (hello vintage tapestry jacket) in Rose Lane, and lust over goodies and gifts at The St. Ives Co. Nearby, The Painted Bird is a good shout for handcrafted homeware and luxurious loungewear.

For a picnic on the beach, swing by St Ives Bakery. Take a backpack as you'll be unable to leave without your bodyweight's worth of skyscraper meringues, plump Cornish pasties and loaves of springy focaccia.

And can it be considered a seaside holiday without scoffing an ice cream on the beach? Hunt out the Moomaid of Zennor parlour for its freshly churned ice cream in flavours such as Espresso Martini or salted almond and hazelnut praline.

St Ives School of Painting

REVIEWS

The Rising Sun

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

It's not easy to strike the balance between upmarket dining pub and a home-fromhome for locals looking to nurse a pint and put the world to rights, yet The Rising Sun's owners Tom and Katie Hannon have achieved it – and then some.

In a city that doesn't suffer the tourist fluctuations of its coastal friends, this Truro pub draws a year-round following of loyal locals who enjoy its relaxed bar area but also use its restaurant as their go-to for any celebration that calls for great grub and a friendly atmosphere. On our visit, our table neighbours launched into an enthusiastic rendition of ‘Happy retirement day to you’ during our visit.

You can understand why people would be chuffed to call this Food Reader Awards finalist their local. Over the nine years Tom and Katie have spent transforming the pub from run-of-the-mill boozer to dining destination, every decision has been made with community in mind. This includes the zero-waste ethos and Tom's cooking lessons at Truro Nourish Hub.

WHO'S COOKING?

While Katie leads front of house, Tom is head honcho in the kitchen. His finedining background is highlighted in this more casual setting – in both the food and the thoughtful touches that ensure a memorable experience. Those opting for steak, for example, can choose their weapon of choice from a case of bespoke knives made in collaboration with Pareusi in St Agnes.

WHAT TO ORDER?

It's uncommon for a Food review not to mention local sourcing, but Tom and Katie have fostered relationships with nearby suppliers since day one –years before it became the done thing. It's resulted in longstanding alliances with food pros who ensure the kitchen is supplied with fish freshly plucked from the waters of Newlyn, Falmouth and St Ives, microgreens snipped that morning, and the finest meats reared on West Country soil.

Three courses make for an unapologetically indulgent affair and a bread course of homemade onion and chorizo brioche dipped in salty jus gras set the scene in style.

This was followed by an array of meat and seafood plates showcasing Tom's fervour for flavour, majoring on rich purees and sauces that packed a punch. In one starter, tender quail breast on chorizo puree was paired with crisp parsnip and leek tendrils for crunch. Another, of meltingly soft scallops, delivered apple sweetness and a wallop of walnut.

For mains, the catch of the day was a hunk of meaty monkfish accompanied by fondant potato, fennel-braised carrots, carrot puree, shellfish bisque and a mini pan of tarragon sauce. Shout out, too, to the incredibly juicy and flavoursome 10-hour-roasted lamb shoulder.

The culinary journey continued with desserts of spiced pineapple tarte tatin served with coconut and lime sorbet, mango puree and rum-soaked raisins, and a wobbly honey and vanilla pannacotta crowned with Sauvignon-macerated peaches.

FOOD'S TIP

Katie and Tom are working on a number of events at the pub, so look out for the late-summer gin festival, wine and whisky tastings and performances from the local male voice choir (of which Tom is a member). therisingsuntruro.co.uk

It's rare to find a city pub that feels like a proper local, but the community ethos at this Truro find serves up village pub vibes in abundance, discovers Abi Manning

Mitchell Hill, Truro, Cornwall, TR1 1ED

The Horse

Jo Rees trotted off to Dartmoor looking for a casual supper and found a thoroughbred experience

7 George Street, Moretonhampstead, Devon, TQ13 8PG

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

A laidback pub serving pizza and steak that's so good it's featured in the exacting Trencherman's Guide

It's an unusual inclusion as Trencherman's restaurants tend to be at the smart end of the dining scale, often boasting sought-after accolades, big-name chefs and chic interiors. Yet The Horse is most definitely a pub-pub, with locals propping up the bar, live music, beer on tap and a menu that majors on pizza.

These are no ordinary pizzas, however. They're crafted from twice-risen focaccia dough and smothered in a slow-cooked tomato sauce and fior di latte cheese. And they're stablemates with homemade pissaladière and 'nduja sausage, owncured bresaola and freshly churned ice cream.

Maybe serving such good grub in such unpretentious surroundings is a clever ploy by The Horse team. After all, if you manage customers' expectations they can't fail to be wowed when you spectacularly over-deliver.

WHO'S COOKING?

The Horse is a family-run operation: the kitchen is the domain of Nigel Hoyle, while wife Malene Graulund manages front of house. Both were actors until 15 years ago, when they took on a biker bar and turned it into this dining destination. Nigel was even a bit famous and appeared in Band of Brothers with Damian Lewis. The small screen's loss is the gourmets' gain.

WHAT TO ORDER?

Everything at this category-defying spot – from the lengthy list of Papillon gins (distilled next door) to the quirky take on tiramisu that rounded off dinner – turned out to be of thoroughbred quality. Visit with a group so you can order right across the menu.

Make sure you include the fine bresaola with pickled carrot, rocket and croutons (guaranteed to result in a tussle for the last slice). Ditto the crisp stonebaked flatbread with roasted garlic and parmesan. Pizza is a must of course and we plumped for a topping of fennel sausage with pepperoni, onion, fresh chilli and rocket. Nigel got his pizza creds working at a famed pizzeria in Rome – he pinched its dough recipe and has used it ever since.

Beyond the own-cured meats, carnivores will appreciate the well-seasoned 28-day-hung sirloin steak accompanied by classy chips, confit shallot, smoked mushroom, grilled tomato and tarragon butter. Plant-based diners are equally well served by an exceptionally delicious vegan salad with kickass dressing and toasted nuts and seeds.

We finished with an on-point crème brûlée with a side of fresh strawberry compote and a homemade shortbread biscuit, plus the Mini-Misu of amaretti biscuits soaked in espresso and Kahlua with mascarpone and homemade chocolate ice cream. Yum.

FOOD'S TIP

Don't worry about being too gung-ho with your order as the team are used to doling out doggie bags for leftovers. Pizza for breakfast: happy days.

thehorsedartmoor.co.uk

Sacred Grounds

In an all-day-brunch scene where uniformity rules, this vegan cafe on Exeter's Fore Street is colouring outside the lines, says Kathryn Lewis

McCoy's Arcade, Fore Street, Exeter, Devon, EX4 3AN

WHAT TO ORDER?

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Creative, clever and beautifully crafted cafe food that'll excite both vegans and flexitarians. The brunch boom shows no sign of fizzling out, yet casual all-day breakfast menus can be a tad repetitive. It's not unusual to see cafes bowing to the pressure to serve crowd-pleasers like avo toast and a gentrified full-English breakfast, and the plant-based options are often the least inventive of all.

Happily, that's not the case at Sacred Grounds. Like any restaurant worth its salt, the chefs at this cafe and events space refresh their menu regularly to reflect what's seasonal and local. As well as sourcing delicious ingredients, the team are constantly coming up with new and innovative ways of working with plants –from perfecting poached “eggs” (the result of more than three months tinkering with silken tofu, agar agar and turmeric) to the organic buckwheat-flour waffles that provide a nutty base for sweet and savoury compilations.

These imaginative dishes are served in the equally inspiring setting of McCoy's Arcade's glass atrium which, thanks to its abundant houseplants and dried flowers, feels like feasting in a leafy greenhouse.

WHO'S COOKING?

Senior chef Maxim Wortley has been cooking professionally for just over a year but calmly keeps the stream of orders ticking over in his tiny open kitchen. Every dish is turned out beautifully – each flower petal, drizzle of blueberry coulis and mint-leaf garnish placed for peak aesthetic effect.

The foundation of a fantastic brunch is great coffee and the Sacred crew have nailed it with a knockout house blend from Roastworks in Devon. The nutty, chocolatey notes of the espresso pair perfectly with oat milk (Oatly Barista is the standard serve) for a deliciously short and sweet flat white.

The brunch menu features a few classics, but they've been reimagined for vegans and upgraded for maximum flavour. We tried the Sacred Royale (toasted muffins with poached “eggs”, oak-smoked carrot lox, “caviar”, hollandaise, avocado, spinach, dill, capers and seeds), which was no pale imitation of the original. Black salt lent the poachies an authentic eggy taste, while the use of seaweed in the homemade vegancaviar spheres delivered a blast of the ocean.

We also tried the savoury waffles piled with peppers, mushrooms and edamame in a homemade sweet-chilli sauce and paired with umami-forward miso mayo, pickled cucumber and a scattering of toasted peanuts. Waffles can be dense and overly sweet, but these were light and refreshing thanks to their buckwheat base and Asian flavours.

If you take the savoury brunch route, chase your coffee order with a Choco Caramello smoothie. The blend of banana, almond milk, dates, cacao, peanut butter, maca and sea salt is packed with good-for-you ingredients but tastes deliciously naughty.

FOOD'S TIP

After brunch, browse the other indie stores lining the arcade: a great selection of reading material is to be discovered at Bookbag, vintage finds abound at The Real McCoy, and beers and bevs can be sourced at Hops + Crafts.

sacredgrounds.co

BEACHSIDE EATS

Drink in views of shimmering sands and lapping waves while dining on fabulous local fodder at these coastal restaurants

1 The Oyster & Fish House, Lyme Regis

The MO at Mark Hix's Lyme Regis restaurant is to serve seafood that literally couldn't be fresher. As a result, the menu often changes throughout the day and diners can sometimes spy fishermen approaching the restaurant with crates of justlanded fish and shellfish.

The most coveted spot for feasting is the heated covered terrace which overlooks The Cobb, although inside is equally majestic as glass walls deliver views of the Jurassic Coast from every table.

For a more personal experience, book Mark's Kitchen Table. Join the chef at his Charmouth home for an afternoon of good eating, plentiful wine and tales of fishing and foraging.

Insider's tip: keep an eye out for guest-chef evenings when Mark is joined in the kitchen by the likes of Nathan Outlaw and Mitch Tonks.

theoysterandfishhouse.co.uk

2 Hooked on the Rocks, Falmouth

Follow a dip in turquoise waters with a plate of fresh local seafood and you've captured the spirit of a Cornish summer. And it's this very experience that gourmets can enjoy at Hooked on the Rocks on Swanpool Beach near Falmouth.

Dishes are simple and shun overembellishment so the ingredients can sing. Swing by for West Country mussels served Thai-style with bok choi and baked focaccia, or Falmouth Bay scallops bathed in roe butter and smoked paprika, served with a seaweed pangrattato. Fish changes depending on the day's haul, but expect the likes of pan-roasted Newlyn hake with Cornish king crab risotto.

Insider's tip: pair the briny delights with a local tipple from producers such as Loveday Gin in Falmouth, Frobishers juices in Exeter and Cornish Camel Valley Sparkling Brut.

hookedontherocksfalmouth.com

3 The Break Bar at Beach House, Bude

This laid-back, family-run venue is just a stone's skim from the beach at Widemouth Bay, so diners can ditch their shoes and enjoy a paddle metres from their table.

The bar and restaurant deals in ‘seafood, soul food and sunsets’ and the team do their utmost to source ingredients locally and sustainably for dishes that hold global appeal. Seafood and spices are the main order of the day, but sea meets land with chargrilled steaks, skewers and seasonal veggie options for those not piscatorially inclined.

A kids' corner, board games and books make it a spot suitable for the whole family. And for those looking to extend the fun (or who've overdone it on the cocktails) there's the option to stop over at chilled B&B, Beach House.

Insider's tip: planning on visiting this summer? Order the seasonal (and epic) seafood sharing board to embrace the seaside setting.

beachhousewidemouth.co.uk

4 WestBeach, Bournemouth

Diners are guaranteed an ocean view at this family-owned restaurant as its smart deck overlooks Bournemouth Beach. Having gazed at the stunning seascape, guests will be equally wowed by the culinary offering. An open kitchen offers the opportunity to watch innovative chefs craft flavourful creations from quality ingredients – the lion's share of which come from fishermen working the local waters off Bournemouth and Poole.

Poole Bay oysters taken with a dose of Tabasco, Tanzanian curry fragrant with spices, and seasonal seafood hit the spot and can be paired with wines from across the globe.

Insider's tip: head to the deck for breakfast to enjoy signature fishy dishes like crab benedict.

west-beach.co.uk

5 Harbour Beach Club, Salcombe

Dodge the hordes of tourists that hit Salcombe in high summer and head for chic seaside feasting at nearby South Sands.

Harbour Beach Club is Harbour Hotel group's gleaming new hotel, bar and restaurant which overlooks the sand and even has a little man-made beach of its own. The setting is a blissful spot where everyone's welcome to sip cocktails on the deck and feast on seafood dishes in a slick dining room. Head chef Daniel Foster whips up crowd-pleasers like grilled lobster with garlic butter alongside contemporary creations such as pan-fried sea bream with Asian broth, razor clams and saffron potatoes.

Insider's tip: make the most of a lengthy wine list that includes a good showing from Devon vineyards. The sparkling Calancombe Estate Blanc de Noirs is a cracking accompaniment to any seafood feast.

harbourhotels.co.uk

The Oyster & Fish House, Lyme Regis

Tried & Tested

South West Wine School

Love wine but winging it when choosing from menus and bottleshop shelves?

The WSET Level 2 course might just be a gamechanger, says Jo Rees

WHAT IS IT?

The Wine and Spirit Education Trust's (WSET) Level 2 Award in Wines is a beginner-tointermediate qualification pitched at wine enthusiasts who know the basics, and those working in the hospitality industry.

The course is run all over the UK. We did it with South West Wine School which used Darts Farm as the venue. The three-day course (once a week for three weeks) culminates in a multiple-choice exam on the final day. Those who pass are officially certified and some choose to continue to Level 3.

WHY?

Wine confidence. The world of viniculture is so vast it's easy to stick with what you know when choosing from a menu or the shelves of your local bottleshop. If you're not sure you're entirely across the difference between Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio (same grape, different styles/regions of the world, we discovered), then developing a mental map to navigate that world is wonderfully life enhancing and provides the confidence to step outside your comfort zone and into new territory.

THE LOW-DOWN

We got to taste lots of wines – many of extremely good quality – during the three days, which was both illuminating and a real treat. Spittoons are used and – once you've learnt how to spit, not dribble – ensure you can walk in a straight line at the end of each session.

The friendly interaction with tutors and other students moves the experience from classroom learning into edutainment. We had nine students on our course - all at different ages and stages, and with various reasons for being there.

Be aware that there's a lot of information to take on: Level 2 provides a whistle-stop tour through the key grape varieties and wine regions of the world so requires a commitment to study outside the classroom to lock in the information.

COST

£495 for the three-day course, including the exam.

RECOMMEND TO A FRIEND?

Absolutely. Perusing the shelves of the bottleshop after completing the course was like having a veil lifted. Enjoying a better understanding of what to look for and having more knowledge on how to pair wine with food turned out to be gamechanging. Level 3, here we come!

southwestwineschool.co.uk

WEEKEND COOKING

Nathan Outlaw takes the fear out of cooking fish over flame

No one panics about slinging steaks or sausages on the barbecue, but seafood? That's an area of uncertainty, as Nathan Outlaw is only too aware: ‘It's one of the things people always ask me about,’ he says.

What does he think is behind this terrible fear of cooking fish over flame?

‘It's expensive, so you don't want to make a mistake. If you bought beef of the equivalent value, you'd have a large piece of meat which takes longer to cook, so you don't get caught out when it's done. You've even got a bit of leeway over how raw you serve it, whereas people think something terrible is going to happen to them if they undercook fish.

‘Actually, when you cook fish on the bone, especially a bigger fish, it's quite forgiving; you can leave it and it won't overcook. It's only when you're cooking fillets on the barbecue that there's a danger of overcooking, but if you use one of those fish cages you can move it off the heat quite easily if you're freaking out that it's going over.’

When it comes to kit, Nathan rates coals and wood over gas, as they reach higher temperatures. ‘The hotter the grill, the less likely it is that the fish will stick,’ he says.

Many of us will be familiar with fish clinging to the grill and then falling apart – and down into the coals, never to be retrieved – when you try to lift it off. Nathan has a solution for that: ‘Cook fillets on an old metal cooling rack that you've placed on top of the griddle. They've got much smaller holes so the fish won't fall through. Just oil the cooling rack and lay the fillets on it. Fillets are good as you can easily see when they're done as the flesh turns opaque when cooked. And don't try and get the fish off the rack to serve the fillets individually, just put the rack on the table and let everyone help themselves.’

Whatever method you use, make sure the fish is as dry as possible before you start cooking, advises Nathan. ‘Any moisture on the outside of the fish will cause steam, which cools things down just enough to make the skin adhere to the metal.’

His advice is to dry fish with kitchen roll and then leave it uncovered overnight in the fridge. If you've marinated the fish, use paper to wipe the marinade off prior to cooking.

‘And don't put the lid on the barbecue as this will also create steam. I'd only put the lid on if I was cooking a really big fish. I'd cook it on the grill with the lid open and then transfer it to a tray and put the lid down, effectively turning it into an oven, to cook the flesh all the way through.’

So the rule is to oil the grill and not the fish? ‘Always oil the grill, but only lightly or it will cause so much flame it'll incinerate the fish.’

Still feeling the fear? Nathan recommends mackerel for nervous beginners. ‘Whole mackerel cooks quickly and is not super expensive, plus you can use the belly to see exactly when it's cooked. Score the fish to the bone and as it cooks it'll retract a bit. When you can see the bone you know it's done.’

Any other types of seafood Nathan recommends for panicky pescatarians? ‘Prawns are easy and always best grilled with the shells on so they don't dry out - plus it's nice to peel them as you eat them. Squid is also great on the barbecue. If small, I'd grill them whole, but larger squid are best opened up, scored and cooked in pieces.’

Nathan has shared two recipes from his new book, Fish For Dinner, that are great for the barbecue which, as he points out, has the added benefit of keeping fishy fumes out of the house.

FishforDinner by Nathan Outlaw is published by Kyle Books (£28)

‘Cook fillets on an old metal cooling rack on top of the griddle; they’ve got much smaller holes so the fish won' t fall through’

Nathan's whole red mullet with baked tomatoes, anchovies and cream

Serves 4

Red mullet 4 (300-400g each), descaled, gutted and heads removed

Olive oil

Pilau rice to serve

For the rub:

Pink peppercorns 1 tsp

Cumin seeds 2 tsp

Sea salt 3 tsp

Lemon 1, zest

Saffron strands a pinch

For the tomatoes:

Ripe beef tomatoes 4

Garlic cloves 3, peeled and crushed

Chargrilled red peppers in vinegar brine 1 × 480g jar

Saffron strands 1 tsp

Salted anchovies in oil 8

Double cream 300ml

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to season

1 For the rub: in a hot dry pan, toast the pink peppercorns, cumin seeds and salt for a few minutes until fragrant. Add the lemon zest and saffron, then tip into a small food processor. Blitz for 1 minute, then allow the mixture to cool.

2 For the fish: slash the skin of the red mullet 3–4 times on each side and place the fish on a tray. Sprinkle all over with the rub mixture and massage it into the slashes. Leave to marinate in the fridge for 1 hour.

3 For the tomatoes: preheat the oven to 180°C / gas 6. Remove the stalks and turn the tomatoes over. Using a small sharp knife, slice through each tomato, about a fifth of the way down, reserving the tops for later. Using a teaspoon, carefully scoop out all of the tomato innards into a bowl. Place the hollowed tomatoes into a snug-fitting ovenproof roasting dish.

4 Put the garlic, peppers, saffron, anchovies and tomato innards into a food processor, season and blend. Divide this mixture between the hollowed-out tomatoes and pour the cream around them. Season with salt and pepper. Cook in the oven for 40 minutes until the tomatoes start to collapse and the cream turns golden.

5 To cook the fish: light the barbecue (grill) 30 minutes before you plan to start cooking. When the coals are white hot, place the red mullet on the grill. Cook for 3 minutes on one side, then carefully turn the fish over and cook on the other side for 3 minutes. Alternatively, you can cook the red mullet under a hot grill or broiler.

6 Carefully lift the fish onto a serving platter using a big fish slice – red mullet is too delicate for tongs. Serve immediately with the baked tomatoes and pilau rice on the side.

Nathan's satay monkfish with carrot and pickled chilli salad, and a peanut and lime dressing

Serves 4

For the pickled carrots and chillies:

Banana shallot 1, peeled and finely sliced

Carrots 2, thinly sliced into rounds

Red chillies 2, deseeded, halved and finely sliced

Lemongrass 1 stick, bashed

Garlic clove 1, peeled and crushed

Fresh ginger 50g, roughly sliced

Cider 100ml

Cider vinegar 100ml

Caster sugar 100g

For the monkfish:

Monkfish tail 1.2-1.5kg, on the bone, trimmed of sinew and skin

Olive oil

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the marinade:

Coriander seeds 3 tbsp

Sea salt 2 tsp

Lemongrass 4 sticks, tough outer layers removed, finely sliced

Garlic cloves 4, peeled and finely chopped

Fresh ginger 4 tbsp, grated

Olive oil 4 tbsp

Soy sauce 6 tbsp

Fish sauce 2 tbsp

Limes 2, zest, juice reserved for the dressing

For the dressing:

Olive oil 200ml

Roasted salted peanuts 100g, chopped

Shallots 2, peeled and chopped

Garlic cloves 2, peeled and finely chopped

Red chillies 2, deseeded and finely chopped

Caster sugar 2 tsp

Fish sauce 4 tbsp

Limes 2, juice

Coriander 4 tbsp, chopped

To serve:

Baby gem lettuce 2, cores removed

Coriander a few sprigs

Limes 2, quartered

1 For the pickled carrots and chillies: mix the shallot, carrots, chillies, lemongrass, garlic and ginger in a large bowl. Put the cider, vinegar and sugar in a saucepan with 100ml of water and bring to a simmer over a medium heat, stirring regularly. Simmer for 1 minute then pour the pickling liquor over the vegetables and season with salt. Make sure everything is submerged, then set aside to cool. If you're making the pickles in advance, once cool transfer to a clean container, seal and leave in the fridge until needed.

2 For the monkfish: make slits through to the bone at approximately 5cm intervals, then put the monkfish tail on a tray.

3 For the marinade: toast the coriander seeds in a dry pan over a medium heat for a few minutes until fragrant, then place in a food processor with the salt and blitz for 2 minutes. Add the lemongrass, garlic and ginger, and blend for another minute. Add the oil, soy sauce, fish sauce and lime zest and blend into a paste.

4 Rub the marinade into the monkfish and leave to marinate in a cool place for at least 30 minutes, or up to 12 hours in the fridge (beyond this time the monkfish may over-marinate).

5 For the dressing: put all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Taste and season with salt.

6 Light the barbecue 30 minutes before you plan to start cooking to ensure the coals are white hot. If grilling the fish, preheat the grill to its highest setting for 10 minutes.

7 Scrape any excess marinade off the monkfish. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with a little olive oil.

8 Put the lettuce in a serving bowl, spoon over some of the dressing and scatter over the drained pickles and a few coriander sprigs.

9 Place the monkfish directly on the barbecue grill (or on a tray under the grill) and cook for 15–20 minutes, turning every 5 minutes. To tell if it's done, insert the point of a small knife into the thickest part between the flesh and bone and hold it there for 5 seconds, then rest the knife on the back of your hand and it should feel between warm and hot.

10 You can either remove the monkfish from the bone and serve it on warmed plates or transfer the whole thing onto a large warmed platter. Spoon over some more dressing, add the lime wedges and serve the rest of the dressing and salad on the side.

THE DRINKS CURATOR

Drinks pro Susy Atkins reveals her seasonal pick of the pack

BAR BUOY COCKTAILS

MAI TAI

Bar Buoy's pre-mixed, punchy but well-balanced cocktails are a cut above many and I especially like their tangy, citrus-soused Mai Tai.

Made with two rums from Devon's Two Drifters distillery (the pineapple spiced and white rums), triple sec, sweet almondy orgeat syrup and lime juice, it should be served properly cold with a wedge of lime for a bright, summery tiki treat.

From £5 (10cl)

barbuoy.co.uk

NNING VINEYARD & ST DEVON WITH CAFE, AURANT. STUNNING LLED GARDENS AND BEAUTIFUL TERRACE FOR ALFRESCO DINING.

ORGANIC COFFEE, HANDMADE CAKES, INSPIRED LUNCHES WITH PRODUCE FROM OUR KITCHEN GARDENS, AND OUR UNIQUE AFTERNOON TEAS.

FABULOUS VINEYARD VENUE FOR SMALL & INTIMATE WEDDINGS, PARTIES & CELEBRATIONS

HERON FARM

W RUN C

Dartmoor Whisky Smash

Whisky is reserved for after-dinner sipping by a crackling log fire on a winter's night, right? Not according to Greg Millar of Dartmoor Whisky

Distillery, who's crafted this zippy garden-party cocktail

Serves 1

Dartmoor Whisky

Ex-Bourbon Cask

Single Malt 40ml

Fresh lemon juice 25ml

Simple syrup 25ml

Angostura

Bitters 2–3 dashes

Soda water a dash

Lemon zest a twist

Mint a sprig

1 Fill a highball glass with ice.

2 Place more ice in a cocktail shaker and add the whisky, lemon juice, simple syrup and bitters. Shake for 40 seconds.

3 Remove the ice from the glass and add fresh ice.

4 Strain the cocktail into the glass and top with a dash of soda water.

5 Garnish with the lemon twist and mint sprig.

dartmoorwhiskydistillery.co.uk

№14 Figs

Scott Paton, head chef of Àclèaf in Plymouth, reveals his hero seasonal ingredient and shares a few tips on how to prepare it at home

It's easy to think of succulent, aromatic figs as exotic fruits grown in the sun-drenched Mediterranean, yet some of the best I've tasted hail from the fields of Devon and Cornwall – we've even got a tree in the grounds of Boringdon Hall.

SOURCE Figs need a lot of sunlight to ripen, so fruit grown in the UK (usually in a greenhouse) is ready to eat from around the end of August until early October.

You may find English varieties in the supermarket, but your best bet is to head to your local farm shop. At Àclèaf, we source them from producers across Devon and Cornwall.

PREP Give the figs a good wash in cold water. If you can, get your hands on the fig leaves too. Their grassy flavour makes an interesting addition to a homemade crème anglais –simply wash the leaves, bash them in a pestle and mortar, leave them to steep in the crème anglais for 30 minutes and then remove the leaves before serving. They add a beautiful fragrance and flavour.

I also use the leaves to make an oil, which I use in winter with venison. It adds a grassy note that's preferable to herbs, which can overpower the meat's delicate flavour.

SERVE I like to pair figs with fatty meats such as pork and duck. Try serving roast pork with homemade fig chutney, or pan-fried duck breast with grilled figs glazed in honey.

I've been working on a rabbit terrine dish for Àclèaf, which I'll serve with a fig puree made using the fruit, sugar, spiced rum and a touch of vinegar. When making the puree, anything that doesn't pass through the sieve is reserved, chilled and served with a soft cheese such as brie.

My favourite way to eat figs at home is grilled with a little brown sugar and served with goodquality greek yogurt, granola and a light grating of orange zest.

acleaf.co.uk

Scott's hero ingredients

Gather round The Farm Table

The new restaurant at Darts Farm scooped Best Newcomer at the Food Reader Awards, yet more than 50 years of history lie behind this day-to-night dining destination

‘Darts Farm offers an experience. We're not just a supermarket where you buy things,' asserts George Dart. ‘We offer something more visceral, an experience where you can eat, feel and smell, and The Farm Table is an extension of that ethos.’

At 25, George is one of the latest generation to join the family firm and is also the brains behind The Farm Table, its new field-to-fork restaurant.

The Darts Farm story began in 1971 when Ronald Dart launched one of Britain's first pick-your-own enterprises. Under the custodianship of his three sons – Michael, James and Paul – the Topsham business has developed into an iconic shopping destination.

George (son of Michael) spent many a school holiday working at Darts, learning the ropes before heading to Reading University where he studied food marketing and business economics. While there, he learned about the cutting-edge strategies and fresh ideas that would prove crucial during the pandemic when the farm shop's nonfood sections were forced to close. Far from seeing it as a disaster, the family interpreted it as a golden opportunity for a rethink and a chance to get the builders in.

‘It was the catalyst for one of the most dynamic and progressive periods in the history of the business,’ says George. They found inspiration for the farm shop's next phase in Eataly, the buzzing Italian marketplaces that mix restaurants with retail.

‘In Britain we tend to keep things separate, but on the continent things merge and are more eclectic,’ says George.

The result is The Farm Table, a casual restaurant with open kitchen in which home-grown, own-reared and locally sourced produce is cooked over fire. Tom Chivers, formerly of THE PIG and Riverford Field Kitchen, has taken the helm and is crafting the kind of irresistibly comforting seasonal food that sees dining companions clashing forks over the last morsel.

‘We want our offer to be good quality but not too pretentious,’ says George. ‘It should be accessible to all, whether you fancy a wood-fired pizza with a cider or a four-course meal paired with a beautiful bottle of wine from our cellar.’

dartsfarm.co.uk

Tom Chivers, George Dart, Dan Marshall of Knightor Winery (category sponsor) and Dan Cox of Crocadon Farm (joint winner) at the Food Reader Awards 2023

a gourmet getaway at Bath's new must-visit venue

Bath is the OG tourist mecca where gastronomy, architecture, history and elegance combine.

Visiting the city to take the waters, indulge in its culinary attractions and trace the steps of its most famous resident Jane Austen has been popular for centuries, but requires a reputable rooming house in which to rejuvenate after a day's adventuring.

That's why we're delighted to have sourced an overnight stay at the city's most exciting new dining pub with rooms, where our lucky winner can find comfortable repose alongside a dinner that would do Mr Darcy proud.

The Griffin Inn was taken over earlier this year by the team who run Robun, the city's top-notch Japanese restaurant. And the same attention to detail that made Robun such a success has been applied to this characterful inn.

Proper pub fare, such as homemade pies and classic Sunday lunches, rubs shoulders with the likes of chargrilled chicken and labneh salad, salmon rillettes on sourdough and charcuterie boards. This good grub is served in a charming historic setting and accompanied by a carefully curated wine list, real ales and craft beers, artisan spirits and homemade bar snacks.

Upstairs, comfortable guestrooms provide luxurious respite from the city's bustle. Sound appealing? Give our competition a whirl and you could enjoy a taste of Bath society this autumn.

THE PRIZE A one‑night stay for two in a premium king room, plus dinner and a bottle of wine.

THE QUESTION In which Jane Austen novel does Mr Darcy feature?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is August 31, 2023.

thegriffinbath.co.uk

a glorious game feast at The Alverton

While we eke out the last days of summer, the kitchen team at The Alverton in Truro will be busy planning a memorable harvest feast to celebrate the arrival of autumn.

On October 7, the hotel and restaurant will host a Taste of Truro evening in celebration of Cornwall's historic game estates. Meats that have been used in Cornish recipes for generations, such as rabbit, pheasant and venison, are the inspiration for head chef Ollie Wyatt's sixcourse tasting menu.

The feast will start with rabbit rillettes, soda bread and coronation pheasant canapés, followed by an amuse bouche of duck carpaccio with orange, pesto and carrot. A starter of quail and wild mushrooms will lead on to a seafood duo of trout and clams, served with pink grapefruit, avocado and cucumber.

The main event will be West Country venison paired with a homemade croquette, devilled liver, orange and cranberry relish, and a whisky and green-peppercorn cream drizzle. A counterpoint to all of this game-fuelled gorgeousness will be a creamy dessert of white chocolate and Baileys semifreddo, and a taster of Cornish cheeses.

Guests choosing to leave the car at home or, better still, treat themselves to a room at The Alverton for the night, can choose to pair their game feast with a wine flight curated by sommelier Holly Bennetts.

Tickets to the Taste of Truro evening cost £60 per person (plus an additional £25 per person for the wine flight) and tables can be booked online via The Alverton's website.

We've teamed up with the hotel to give one lucky reader and their guest the chance to win tickets to this special event.

THE PRIZE Two tickets for the Taste of Truro evening at The Alverton on October 7.

THE QUESTION What's the name of The Alverton's head chef?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is August 31, 2023.

thealverton.co.uk

an epicurean escape on Dartmoor

Country house hotels don't come much grander than Bovey Castle in the heart of Dartmoor National Park.

Built in 1907 by the family of William Henry Smith (of WHSmith fame), Bovey Castle was sold in 1930 to Great Western Railway and turned into a glamorous hotel and golf resort. Today, it retains its opulent splendour and the 275-acre estate continues to offer guests the opportunity to relax and recharge in style.

This summer marks the launch of the Great Western Grill restaurant after a £1.2m kitchen refurbishment. Head chef Mark Budd has created an extensive à la carte menu that provides an elegant take on classic dishes. Expect to encounter the likes of roasted dover sole grenobloise with jersey royal potatoes, poached native lobster with truffle macaroni cheese, and the ever-popular beef wellington for sharing.

While the restaurant's sumptuous decor and crisp table linen exude old-school refinement, families are very welcome and there's even a dedicated children's menu of familiar favourites.

To celebrate the launch of the Great Western Grill restaurant, we've teamed up with Bovey Castle to give one lucky reader and their guest the chance to win an overnight stay plus dinner.

THE PRIZE A one‑night stay for two at Bovey Castle, with breakfast and dinner in Great Western Grill.

THE QUESTION In which national park will you find Bovey Castle?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is August 31, 2023.

boveycastle.com

NEAL CHAINEY

Forager and chef Neal runs Found & Fine, a bespoke catering company in Dorchester, with his wife Catriona. He tells us about his pizza obsession and the ingredient he loves to forage but hates to eat

WHICH KITCHEN ITEM COULDN'T YOU LIVE WITHOUT?

My microplane. I use it for absolutely everything and would be lost without it.

WHAT DO YOU LISTEN TO IN THE KITCHEN?

It really varies, but I enjoy UK hip-hop and bands like Arctic Monkeys and Khruangbin. We tend to stick on Spotify in the morning and that gets us motivated for the day ahead.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT TO DATE?

Setting up Found & Fine with Catriona during lockdown. I've worked in kitchens all over the world but this is the best thing I've done. We focus on hyper-local foraged ingredients and use them to create fine-dining menus for private events. It's hugely satisfying being our own bosses, doing what we love and having more free time for ourselves.

FAVOURITE INGREDIENT TO FORAGE?

It depends on the season. I'm obsessed with mushrooms and collect lots in autumn. Ceps and Bay Bolete grow locally to us. The irony is I don't actually like eating mushrooms, but I do appreciate their flavour value.

YOUR MOST‑READ RECIPE BOOK?

Tommy Banks' Roots cookbook. He's right up my street in terms of the ingredients he uses and how he cooks them. The preserving side of what he does resonates with our business too.

FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT OUT?

Anywhere with good pizza. Dorchester has a few decent pop-up pizza vans, which we visit quite a lot. I also really like Catch at the Old Fish Market in Weymouth – it's the best place to eat locally.

BEST STAYCATION SPOT?

We love Padstow. There's so much lovely scenery and great pubs all along that Cornish coastline. We enjoy the Devon coast too.

DESERT ISLAND MEAL?

You can't go wrong with a well-made margherita pizza!

f

oundnfine.co.uk

their

‘The irony is I don't actually like eating mushrooms, but I do appreciate

flavour value’

Brownies and birthdays

and snow days and Sundays and hot chocolates

and thank yous and

and picnics and pancakes crumbles

CREAM TEAS and

Everything’s better WITH