Food Magazine May / June 2023

Michelin star dining at

Three courses from £69*

LUNCH AT LYMPSTONE

Dine in the fine dining rooms of Lympstone Manor’s Michelin Star Restaurant and discover Michael Caines world renowned cuisine.

Three courses £75 including coffee and petit fours | Four courses £100 including coffee and petit fours Or indulge in the mid-week lunch special offer running until the end of May with three courses £69 and four courses £79 (excluding coffee and petits fours)

FOOD

Issue 196

Published April 2023 food-mag.co.uk @foodmagazinesw @food_mag foodmagazinesw

PUBLISHER

Salt Media ideas@saltmedia.co.uk 01271 859299 saltmedia.co.uk

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EDITOR

Kathryn Lewis

EDITORIAL

Abi Manning

Melissa Morris

Rosanna Rothery

Melissa Stewart

Selena Young

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Jo Rees

ADVERTISING

Nick Cooper

Claire Fegan

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PUBLISHING

Charlotte Cummins

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ACCOUNTS

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PHOTOGRAPHY

3deep Media, Matt Austin, John Eldridge, Rachel Hoile, David Loftus, James Ram, Lauren Wiig, Kate Whitaker

COVER

Scarlet, Cornwall

THANKS

Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports the South West's food and hospitality industry.

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While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.

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Every year, I'm blown away by the number of readers who rally round their favourite food and drink businesses by voting for them in the Food Reader Awards.

This year we received over 100,000 votes across the two rounds, a staggering amount of activity that's testament to the South West's booming food and drink scene. We're now gearing ourselves up for the awards ceremony at Nancarrow Farm in Cornwall on May 15, where head chef Jack Bristow and crew will rustle up a seasonal feast for the finalists (meet them from page 8) and awards partners. We'll announce the winners on Instagram as they're revealed on the night – follow the event live via @foodmagazinesw.

Staycation season is in full swing and in this issue we've plenty of inspiration for your escapades across the South West. From page 28, Rosanna reveals the best places to eat, drink, stay and shop in Ashburton – the staycation destination on the edge of Dartmoor. And, from page 20, Jo takes an electrifying road trip through a portion of the SW660 – the South West's answer to Scotland's North Coast 500.

For further eating‑out inspiration, head to the reviews section (from page 32) for fork‑by‑fork accounts of the team's recent dining experiences. Selena visited a beachside bolthole for a greedy getaway, while Jo checked out a Michelin stalwart that's received a high‑end refresh of its dining room and tasting menu.

Enjoy the issue.

Kathryn Lewis

Follow us on foodmagazinesw

Nancarrow Farm

May & June

6 THE HIT LIST

Latest foodie news and events.

8

Food Reader Awards 2023

Meet your finalists.

20 SW660 ROAD TRIP

Touring Devon and Cornwall's new gourmet route.

28

STAYCATION GUIDE

Where to eat, drink, stay and shop in Ashburton.

32 REVIEWS

Eating out across the region.

42

WEEKEND COOKING

Seasonal recipes from leading chefs and producers.

53 WIN

Drinks bundles for garden party season, plus a foodie overnighter in Cornwall.

58

LAST BITE

Darren Millgate on nurturing the next generation of cooking talent.

The Hit List

The latest foodie news and events for your calendar

Nancarrow Farm in Truro is hosting Farm Supper feasts on May 11 and 18, where visitors will dine in the oak barn or courtyard (weather dependent) and tuck into seasonal dishes crafted from ingredients grown on the farm. Guests can choose between two sittings (5.30pm or 8pm) and also take advantage of overnight accommodation options. Tickets cost £50.

2

BEACHSIDE FOOD AND FROLICS

Swing by St Ives Food and Drink Festival on May 12‑14 for gourmet thrills on the coast. The free‑to‑attend event, hosted by local restaurateur and chef Mick Smith, will take place on Cornwall's Porthminster Beach. Star chefs Jack Stein, Kathy Slack, Ana Ortiz and Adam Banks will showcase their skills on the demo stage, and there'll be live music from The Scribes, Showhawk Duo and Good Old Fashioned Lover Boys. Tickets are required for the Evening Music Sessions – prices start at £13.50.

3

PLANT‑BASED POP‑UP

Roaming restaurant Greenhouse – Plant Based Dining, run by ambitious chef and chartered environmentalist Rachel Steeds, is the new produce‑led dining experience making waves in Bristol and Bath. Rachel hosts regular pop‑up feasting nights and chef's table events, which often sell out months in advance.

On May 13 and June 10, she'll host a relaxed supper at The Manor Hall at Coalpit Heath in Bristol (£27 for four courses), which will be followed on May 17 and June 21 by infotaining dining experiences at Bristol's Little Kitchen Cookery School (£50 for five courses).

GUT‑FRIENDLY FEASTING

Throughout 2023, Mark Hix is inviting chefs of note to join him in the kitchen of his Lyme Regis restaurant. On May 17, author and gut‑health expert Naomi Devlin will prepare a four‑course dinner at The Oyster & Fish House and share her wisdom on how to boost gut health through food and drink choices. Tickets cost £65.

SNIFF OUT NEW FRENCH FAVES

Mark Banham of Morrish & Banham wine merchant in Dorset will host a Loire Valley and Beaujolais tasting event at his Dorchester bottle shop on May 25, and another on May 26 at the sister venue in Bridport. Guests will be guided through a curated flight of distinctive drops and get to glean pro tasting tips. Tickets cost £25.

FALMOUTH'S FIRST FOOD FEST

Considering Falmouth's vibrant dining scene, it was only a matter of time before the harbour town got a foodie festival of its own. The first Falmouth Food Festival will take place at Church Street car park on May 26‑28. Visit to enjoy native and global cuisine from local food traders, a well‑stocked bar care of Verdant Brewing Co., quality crafts from local makers and live music.

ENGLISH RIVIERA FEST

Don't miss the first ever English Riviera Food & Music Festival at Torre Abbey Meadows in Torquay on the bank holiday weekend (May 26 29). The family friendly event will showcase a cracking line up of chefs, including Jude Kereama and James Tanner, and musical stars such as Scouting for Girls, UB40 and Razorlight. Tickets from £46.50.

8

SEAWEED APPRECIATION DAY

Whether you're a seaweed fan or simply intrigued by the marine plants' nutritional benefits, you should head to Clovelly in north Devon for the fishing village's Seaweed Festival on May 28. Experts will be at the quayside to provide advice on foraging, cooking and crafting using seaweed.

9

TASTE OF THE TIDES

Join head chef Ollie Wyatt of The Alverton in Truro for a series of exclusive tasting events. The first, Taste of Truro, takes place on June 3 and will celebrate Cornwall's thriving seafood culture through six courses crafted from the local catch. Ollie will provide an insight into the creation of each dish while sommelier Yohann Thuillier delivers top‑notch wine pairings. Tickets cost £60.

10

TOM KERRIDGE'S PUB EXTRAVAGANZA

The TV chef's Pub in the Park festival returns to Royal Victoria Park in Bath on June 16‑18. Expect to see big‑name chefs such as Marco Pierre White cooking up a storm in the demo tent or firepit, while headliners Example, McFly and Gabrielle blast tunes from the main stage. Food is the overarching theme and festival‑goers will get to chow down on dishes from pop‑up pubs and restaurants. Tickets from £47.20.

11

SAY CHEESE

If you're partial to the perennially good pairing of cheese and wine, don't miss Cheltenham Food and Drink Festival at Montpellier Gardens on June 23‑25. Visit for discussions and delectables centred around vino and fromage, as well as street theatre, demos in the chef's kitchen and live music. Tickets from £7.

This year, over 100,000 votes were cast by foodies keen to champion their local food and drink heroes in one of the region's biggest reader-voted awards. The finalists will gather at Nancarrow Farm in Cornwall on May 15 to discover if they've won – here's your chance to meet them

Catch at the Old Fish Market

Best chef

ANDREW TUCK, ST KEW INN

Great British Menu contestant Andrew worked with Lennox Hastie, Simon Stallard and Ben Quinn before carving out a following for his flame-cooked feasts at 15th-century St Kew Inn near Bodmin.

AYESHA KALAJI, QUEEN OF CUPS

Since opening Queen of Cups in Glastonbury in May 2021, chef-owner Ayesha has collected an impressive haul of awards and accolades for her Middle Eastern cooking – including a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

ELLY WENTWORTH, THE ANGEL - TASTE OF DEVON

Following in the footsteps of celebrated chef Joyce Molyneux (one of the first female chefs to receive a Michelin star), Elly took over as head chef of The Angel in Dartmouth in 2018 and continues her legacy by serving produce-led fine-dining dishes.

JACK STEIN, RICK STEIN RESTAURANTS

Best restaurant

Sponsored by Dole

HARBOUR HOUSE, BRISTOL

Under new ownership since 2020, this former boat shed on Bristol's floating harbour quickly established itself as a destination for fabulously fresh fish. Porthilly mussels, Devon scallops and St Mawes smoked haddock feature alongside local meat and veg.

ONE FISH STREET, ST IVES

Fish fans staying in St Ives would be remiss not to sample the tasting menu at this intimate restaurant on the harbour. The eight-course line-up is dictated by the fresh seafood and ingredients that land in the kitchen each morning.

OSIP, BRUTON

It didn't take long for the accolades to start rolling in when Merlin Labron-Johnson opened his farm-to-table restaurant in Bruton in 2019. The innovative chef earned his first Michelin star in 2021 and a Michelin Green star in 2023.

PORTHMINSTER BEACH CAFE, ST IVES

It's hard to beat the views at this contemporary restaurant on Porthminster Beach. Accompanying the vistas of pristine sand and lapping waves are beautifully turned-out seafood dishes, such as smoked haddock chowder, Indonesian seafood curry and classic Cornish moules marinières.

Son of esteemed restaurateurs Rick and Jill Stein, Jack started working in the kitchens of his parents' restaurants in the school holidays. He's now the chef director of Rick Stein Restaurants and oversees the company's 12 venues across the South West and beyond.

restaurants in the school holidays. He's now the

Elly Wentworth

One Fish Street

The Idle Rocks

Best hotel

Sponsored by The Eco Laundry

ARTIST RESIDENCE, BRISTOL

The latest addition to Artist Residence's collection of stunning design-forward hotels, this Bristol venue in the creative community of St Pauls was once a boot factory. Rooms are uniquely styled and lean into the building's industrial past.

BOVEY CASTLE, DARTMOOR

This hotel and spa nestled within lush gardens and 275 acres of Devon countryside was first opened by Great Western Railway as a golf resort in 1930. Today it's one of the region's top destinations for families, friends and couples.

CARBIS BAY ESTATE, ST IVES

A stone's throw from the bustling streets of St Ives, Carbis Bay Estate offers refuge and respite for those seeking escape from the holiday crowds. The luxury estate, hotel and spa includes a private 25-acre Blue Flag beach, with many rooms enjoying views of the azure waters.

THE IDLE ROCKS, ST MAWES

Perched on rocks overlooking St Mawes harbour, this luxury 18-bedroom hotel is a popular destination for gourmet getaways. Its restaurant, led by exec chef Dorian Janmaat, received the prestigious Trencherman's Award for Creativity and Innovation in 2022.

Bovey Castle

Best cafe

ALBATROSS CAFE, BRISTOL

The Library

Best cocktail bar

CI CI'S, PADSTOW

Part of Paul Ainsworth's growing empire in foodie Padstow, this slick cocktail and pintxos bar above the chef's flagship fine-dining restaurant is a must for spirit connoisseurs.

NO.15 BY GUESTHOUSE HOTELS, BATH

A great hotel bar with a killer cocktail list is a godsend when staying somewhere new. The bartenders at No.15 in Bath use premium British spirits, syrups and bitters to craft an imaginative bill of drinks.

SEVEN, ST IVES

The creative cocktail menu at this St Ives find was designed by head barman Ky Belk, who has over 30 years of industry experience. Expect to sample off-piste concoctions made from the finest distillations.

THE LIBRARY, BRISTOL

From the outside, this venue on St Nicholas Street appears to be an antique bookshop but venture in and pass through the secret doorway to discover an intimate drinking den serving speakeasy-style drinks.

Thronging with houseplants and bathed in natural light, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling glass shopfront, this North Street cafe is an inviting spot to kick back with a locally roasted coffee. Stick around for brunch, lunch or something sweet, then make a return trip for drinks on Fridays and Saturdays when it's open till late.

BREAD & BUTTER, TRURO

The duo of Bread & Butter venues on Truro's River Street (one a cafe, the other a takeaway and deli) ensures visitors are expertly fed and watered, however much time they have to spare. It's worth carving out an hour to feast on a stack of pancakes and sink a flat white at the cafe space.

SOULSHINE, BRIDPORT

On first impressions, this popular Bridport cafe appears to be a takeaway set-up and deli. However, venture through the small corridor and you'll find a spacious dining room and courtyard garden where you can tuck into delicious homemade dishes.

THE WHOLE HOG LYME BAY, LYME REGIS

The team behind this hole-in-the-wall cafe focus on just three things: speciality coffee, hog-roast baps and homemade doughnuts. This formidable trio makes it almost impossible to order just one of the delicious items from The Whole Hog's pared-back menu.

Bread & Butter

Trewithen Dairy Salted Butter

Best food product

BATH

SOFT CHEESE

Four generations of the Padfield family have kept cows on Park Farm and cheddar has been made on the 240-acres of farmland since 1914. Graham Padfield started making cheese again in 1990 and the jewel in his range is this highly rated soft cheese.

PHILIP WARREN BUTCHERS BEEF

You'll find Philip Warren's grass-fed beef on the menus of some of the UK's best restaurants, including Coombeshead Farm in Launceston, Pasture in Bristol and L'Enclume in the Lake District.

TREWITHEN DAIRY SALTED BUTTER

Trewithen's indulgent butter is crafted using fresh cream from farms within 25 miles of its Lostwithiel dairy, along with a touch of Cornish sea salt. The eco-focused company was named Sustainable Champion in the Food Reader Awards 2022.

YUMELLO SALTED DATE PEANUT BUTTER

Yumello founders Esther and Omar met in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. Over a decade later, they were inspired by the traditional Berber spreads that fuelled their trekking to establish a planet-friendly peanut butter brand in Wells.

Bath

Best dining pub

EVERSFIELD ORGANIC DARTMOOR INN, MERRIVALE

The team at Eversfield Organic only reopened this historic Dartmoor pub at the start of 2023 but have already accrued a dedicated following for their hearty food made from 100 per cent organic produce.

THE CORNISH ARMS, TAVISTOCK

This coaching inn on the edge of Dartmoor placed 12th in the Top 50 Gastropubs list this year. Since taking over the pub in 2013, chef-owner John Hooker has made The Cornish Arms a destination dining pub where foodies flock to taste local ingredients crafted with creative flair.

THE RISING SUN, TRURO

Chef-patron Tom Hannon and partner Katie have created a cosy space on the edge of Truro city centre in which to indulge in classic pub fare and fine wines. Cornish produce is at the heart of every dish, with an ever-changing menu taking inspiration from both land and sea.

THE TALBOT INN, MELLS

Part of the Beckford Group of dining pubs and restaurants across Somerset and Wiltshire, The Talbot Inn is a special find for a rural gourmet getaway. Like its sister establishments, the 15th-century pub has been thoughtfully refurbished and decked out with luxurious touches.

Best drink product

BRIDE VALLEY DORSET CRÉMANT

‘A wine that sparkles, rather than a sparkling wine’ is how the team at Bride Valley describe their Dorset Crémant. The only Crémant to be produced in the region (possibly the UK), it's already scooped a number of international wine awards.

DEVON RUM CO. PREMIUM GOLDEN RUM

Established in March 2020, Devon Rum Co. crafts an exciting range of spirits from its Island Street HQ in Salcombe. The team source the finest rums from Jamaica and Guyana and blend them with soft Devon spring water, aromatic spices and natural ingredients.

SANDFORD ORCHARDS DEVON RED

The headliner in Sandford Orchards' range of authentic ciders, Devon Red is loved across the South West and beyond. The crisp and fruity medium cider is made from Farmer's Glory, Dabinett and Sweet Alford apple varieties at Sandford's historic cider mill in Crediton.

VERDANT LIGHTBULB EXTRA PALE ALE

This irresistibly juicy extra pale ale from Verdant is described by its brewers as ‘sessionable, quenching and totally addictive’. The Penryn brewery has gained a cult following for its funky craft beers and eye-catching can art – fans can pay a visit to its taproom to sample the goods at source.

The Cornish Arms

The Talbot Inn

Sandford Orchards

Best farm shop

BIRD & CARTER, SALISBURY

Joff and Annie Bird founded this Wilton farm shop in 2006, which was followed by a sister cafe and B&B in a former post office in Fonthill in 2020. This original shop is where visitors and locals go to stock up on homemade goodies and artisan ingredients from regional producers.

BOSCASTLE FARM SHOP, CORNWALL

This eco-focused farm shop on the Cornish coast is powered by 84 solar panels on its roof, cutting the shop and cafe's carbon emissions by 12 tonnes each year. Inside, visitors will find an Aladdin's cave of gorgeous goodies – from homemade pies, quiches and cakes to locally crafted tipples.

MILLERS FARM SHOP, AXMINSTER

For a taste of the local terroir, those staying in and around Axminster head to this family-run farm shop to fill their bags with homegrown veg, Lyme Bay fish, local cheese, Devon cider and more. Malcolm and Angela Miller established the shop over 40 years ago and it's now run by their son James and his wife Olivia.

ST KEW FARM SHOP & CAFE, BODMIN

This tiny farm shop and cafe just off the Atlantic Highway is a find for top-notch coffee and food while travelling along Cornwall's northern coastline. After refuelling in the cafe, head to the shop to fill your boot with artisan food and drink, beautiful homewares and verdant houseplants.

Best cookery school

Sponsored by Rodda's

ASHBURTON COOKERY SCHOOL, DEVON

Catering for all abilities – from novices to keen home cooks to professional chefs – Ashburton Cookery School offers more than 40 courses of various lengths (half-day to five days). Chef director Darrin Hosegrove conducts Ashburton's team of experienced chefs in the execution of its numerous hands-on classes.

GLEBE HOUSE, COLYTON

Glebe House is first and foremost a guest house, restaurant and smallholding, yet its Experience Days - from breadmaking to pasta classes – have become hugely popular. They're often hosted by Glebe House's head chef Sam Lomas.

HIGH GRANGE, AXMINSTER

Cooking over flame is one food trend that doesn't look like it's going to fizzle out anytime soon, and many keen alfresco cooks have beaten a path to High Grange near Axminster to learn the tricks of the trade from Luke Vandore-Mackay. The fire school hosts full and half-day experiences, which cover the full range of outdoor cooking techniques.

RICK STEIN'S COOKERY SCHOOL, PADSTOW

First opening its doors in 2000, Rick Stein's Cookery School in Padstow has taught thousands of budding home cooks how to elevate their fish dishes and expand their seafood recipe repertoire. Head chef lecturer Nick Evans has captained the cookery school since 2001.

High Grange

Millers Farm Shop

Best indie retailer

CHANDOS DELI, BRISTOL

Chandos' Clifton outpost is a treasure trove of delicious things to eat and drink. Peruse the cheese cabinet, pick up a loaf of freshly baked bread and select a bottle of wine to pair with your feast of locally produced goodies.

THE DORSET MEAT COMPANY

Jane and Nick Somper established this online butchery to provide foodies with grass-fed meat reared in harmony with nature. The duo work with a network of local family-run farms and curate the finest outdoor-reared meat in boxes delivered to customers' doors.

FEE'S FOOD, ROCK

A cafe, deli and artisan ready-meal shop rolled into one, Fee's Food in Rock is a hub of delicious homemade and locally crafted delights. The oven-ready meals, which include classics such as Cornish fish pie and aubergine parmigiana, are a hit with tourists staying in the village's self-catering accommodation.

THE BECKFORD BOTTLE SHOP, BATH

Visit this bottle shop and bistro to pick up interesting drops for your wine collection and then stick around for a glass and a couple of small plates from its award-winning kitchen. If you can't make it to the venue on Saville Row, order wine to be delivered to your door from the online shop.

The Dorset Meat Company

The Beckford Bottle Shop

Bird & Carter

Best newcomer COR, BRISTOL

Mark Chapman was executive chef at some of Bristol's most exciting restaurants before he opened this neighbourhood restaurant on North Street in October 2022. It's a small plates set-up, with dishes inspired by the flavours of the Med.

CROCADON, ST MELLION

Five years in the making, this farm-to-table restaurant in rural Cornwall was one of 2023's most anticipated launches and was awarded a Michelin Green star just months after opening to evening diners. Chef-owner Dan Cox and team craft almost everything from produce that's been grown and reared on the farm.

EMILIA, ASHBURTON

A Bologna-style osteria isn't what instantly comes to mind when you think of dining in the depths of Dartmoor, yet the discerning town of Ashburton is the perfect setting for this contemporary restaurant. The daily menu is inspired by owners Clare Lattin and Tom Hill's Italian experiences.

THE FARM TABLE AT DARTS FARM, TOPSHAM

Starting out more than 50 years ago as a humble pick-your-own shack, Darts Farm near Exeter has transformed into a food and drink hub to which people travel miles to visit. The Farm Table restaurant is the newest addition to the destination and focuses on dishes crafted from own-grown produce and cooked over fire.

Sustainability champion

CATCH AT THE OLD FISH MARKET, WEYMOUTH

This restaurant within a former fish market sources seafood for its daily menus from the dayboats that dock at its doorstep, including its own vessels Weyfish One and Tarka. Other ingredients, such as fruit and veg, are sourced from local Dorset growers and producers.

RIVERFORD ORGANIC FARMERS, BUCKFASTLEIGH

What started out as one man delivering veg in a wheelbarrow has snowballed into an ethics-driven business which delivers 50,000 organic fruit and veg boxes each week. The employee-owned B Corp is on a mission to cut waste, reduce emissions and boost biodiversity.

SCARLET, MAWGAN PORTH

Scarlet is one of the UK's most sustainable hotels, and visitors who arrive by electric car, bike or public transport receive five per cent off their stay. Other eco accomplishments include using grey water from showers to flush the loos, and an outdoor pool that's cleansed by natural reeds and algae.

THE HOLCOMBE, SOMERSET

Alan Lucas and Caroline Gardiner left London to lead a more sustainable lifestyle in Somerset, which resulted in them buying this 13-bedroom inn and establishing a bountiful garden from which they stock the kitchen. Visit for ultra-seasonal dishes adorned with homegrown herbs and flowers.

Scarlet

COR

Follow the action live from the celebratory supper and awards ceremony at Nancarrow Farm near Truro on May 15. We'll be sharing the results on Instagram (@foodmagazinesw) and Twitter (@food_mag) throughout the evening, and images from the event will be published on food-mag.co.uk on May 16.

Food Reader Awards 2023 are supported by

SW660

ROAD TRIP

TRURO

Jo Rees charged the EV and hit a portion of the South West 660 – the West Country's version of Scotland's North Coast 500 – to discover the best places to eat and stay. Here's where to visit (and charge your vehicle) for an electrifyingly good gourmet getaway between Appledore and St Ives

The north coast of Devon and Cornwall is the adventurous side of the peninsula, best known for beaches where waves that have barrelled across the Atlantic reach their final destination. From the longboard-friendly breaks of north Devon to the turquoise waters of Newquay and beyond, it's one long stretch of open vistas and big skies. And, if you know where to go, you can experience incredible places to eat and stay that are just as breathtaking as the natural beauty of this coastal playground.

Hitting the road

We started a three‑day trip fully charged via a decent flat white from 1 The Coffee Cabin in Appledore. The pretty fishing village is a joy to mosey around, especially its arty shops (cool finds abound) and stores selling the work of local makers. Pick up supplies for your trip at Johns of Appledore or 2 Marshford Organic Foods where, during the summer, it's also possible to camp.

Ten minutes' drive away is the village of Woolsery (also called Woolfardisworthy ‑ don't let the names confuse), which is home to the fabulous 3 The Farmers Arms dining pub and its new high‑end cottages and suites. The pub is a special find for new‑wave British cooking crafted from own‑grown and foraged produce. For food to‑go, swing by its sister business

Woolsery Fish & Chips where exceptional fish and fries are accompanied by artisan‑style salt and vinegar, and sides such as lemon and black pepper

Nearby charging: Churchfields Car Park, Appledore, EX39 1RL. 3 x chargers (43kW Type 2 | 50kW CHadeMo | 50kW CCS).

coleslaw.

Nearby charging: The Coach and Horses, Horns Cross, EX39 5DH (four miles away). 1 x charger (22kW Type 2). 3

Ian Webber, executive chef of The Farmers Arms, foraging in north Devon

'Hawksfield

is a posh pull‑over where Swedish‑inspired fika is the order of the day at Strong Adolfos'

'As of this summer, guests can also stay at Outlaw's Coastal Retreats'

Border patrol

Back on the Atlantic Highway you'll cross the border into the Cornish town of Bude. No journey to (or even near) the seaside spot is complete without a visit to 4 Electric Bakery. Crowned best cafe in the Food Reader Awards 2022, it delivers elite‑level flat whites and a counter of creative pastries that render resistance futile. For more substantial eats, check out 5 Potters The restaurant has been the go‑to for contemporary fine dining in Bude, but has recently pivoted to embrace a more casual piscatorial approach. Visit for fish and chips done in style.

Nearby charging: Bude Tourist Information Centre, Bude, EX23 8LE. 3 x chargers (43kW Type 2 | 50kW CHadeMo | 50kW CCS).

The next foodie stop of note is to be found in nearby Boscastle. 6 The Rocket Store is an enchanting destination for small‑plate dishes served in a hut‑like setting. Tables are extremely limited so booking is essential. If it's on the menu, we recommend the Thai beef larb.

Nearby charging: Churchfield Car Park, Camelford, PL32 9PA (six miles away). 3 x chargers (43kW Type 2 | 50kW CCS | 50kW CCS).

Heading down the coast from Boscastle, discerning diners will want to hang a right to Port Isaac where renowned chef Nathan Outlaw keeps two restaurants. 7 Outlaw's New Road is the setting for a daily‑changing and unfussy (but flawless) seafood set‑menu that reflects the morning's haul. Nearby, 8 Outlaw's Fish Kitchen sees 20 seats squeezed into a 15th‑century fisherman's cottage where small plates and carefully paired wines create a charming experience. As of this summer, guests can also stay at 9 Outlaw's Coastal Retreats which deliver luxury self‑catered accommodation.

Nearby charging: Wadebridge Higher Trenant Office, Wadebridge, PL27 6TW (8 miles away). 2 x chargers (22kW Type 2).

The nerve centre

This next section of the route is awash with standout places to eat and stay. Just seven miles down the coast is contemporary‑meets‑deco 10 St Moritz Hotel where, on summer days, visitors can dip and dine alfresco in the outdoor pool and its casual Seaside restaurant (there's a decent indoor restaurant too). A little further on are the delights of Rock, where the smart surrounds of 11 The St Enodoc Hotel are complemented by the cooking of its talented exec chef Guy Owen.

The Atlantic Highway itself offers some pit stops worthy of proper attention. Speciality coffee, decent cafe food and leafy houseplants for sale make 12 St Kew Farmshop & Cafe worth a pause, while the 15th‑century 13 St Kew Inn is a great lunch destination where Great British Menu chef Andrew Tuck turns out quality dishes which can be scoffed fireside or in the country garden.

Another roadside gem awaits just beyond Wadebridge: Hawksfield is a posh pull‑over where Swedish‑inspired fika is the order of the day at 14 Strong Adolfos. If you're grabbing a flattie to‑go, with a plan to explore its neighbouring upscale stores, pair it with the best cinnamon bun you'll ever encounter (made by Da Bara Bakery) from 15 The Arc deli and try not to leave crumbs on the wetsuits in Finisterre.

The best places to stay nearby are 16 Bedruthan and its sister hotel 17 Scarlet. Both are exceptional finds for high‑quality cheffery and contemporary inside/outside natural spa experiences. Bedruthan is more of a family destination than its grown‑ups‑only sibling, but out of school holidays is unlikely to be packed out with kids.

Nearby charging: Bedruthan 6 x chargers (Tesla 22kW Type 2 | Universal 22kW Type 2 | Universal 7kW Type 1 and 2). Scarlet: 4 x chargers (Telsa 22kW Type 2 | Universal 22kW Type 2 | Universal 7kW Type 1 and 2).

Nearby charging: St Moritz Hotel, Wadebridge, PL27 6SD. 4 x chargers (20kW Type 2).

A mile or two down the coast is

18 Watergate Bay Hotel. When it launched 15 years ago, the eponymous hotel was a pioneer of Cornwall's contemporary reincarnation and has maintained its rep for watersport adventures in design‑led surroundings. Its headline restaurant Zacry's is effortlessly casual but culinarily on‑point, and bolstered by the recent addition of a group of Indian chefs. The scheme was cooked up by exec chef Neil Haydock and colleagues as a solution to the recruitment crisis, and has injected the modern Cornish menu with a dash of Indian flair.

19 Emily Scott Food joined the Watergate crew when the restaurant moved into the building below the hotel (previously Fifteen Cornwall), providing another quality dining opportunity on the beach.

Surf central

Those heading out of Watergate Bay after breakfast and looking for their second caffeine hit of the day should swing by 20 Island in Newquay, another speciality coffee shop from the Strong Adolfos team.

Cornwall's surfing capital might be all boards and beach bars but it's also home to some classy hotels. 21 The Headland is a grand old place that's been given a modern makeover inside and out. A recent £10 million investment in its aquatic facilities has seen it ranked in The Week's top ten hotel swimming pools in the world.

Nearby

Heading in the direction of St Ives it's worth making a detour back to the coast to visit 22 Driftwood Spars. The 17th‑century inn on the beach enjoys a great reputation for its beers (many brewed on‑site), pub food and four‑star guestrooms, and is named after the shipwreck beams (spars) used to make the building. If the weather's good, snack alfresco at its shipping container cafe The Crib Shack.

Nearby charging: Watergate Bay Hotel, TR8 4AA. 10 x chargers (7.4kW Type 2).

charging: The Headland, TR7 1EW (1 x charger (Type 2 | 7kW) and Albany Road Car park, Newquay, TR7 2NQ. 2 x chargers (43kW Type 2 | 50kW CCS).

Destination dining

The final destination, St Ives, offers a number of notable places to eat and stay. Top of the list should be lunch or dinner at 23 Porthminster Beach Cafe, which sits right on the shore. The Trencherman's Award‑winning restaurant ticks all the boxes for coastal dining: laid‑back artsy interior, exceptional seafood and on‑point service. Tip: the perfectly cooked dover sole with caper butter, Tenderstem and triple cooked chips with garlic and rosemary is bang on the money.

Other distractions in the small town include a visit to 24 Tate St Ives and a coffee on the beach from 25 Yallah's hole in the wall. 26 The Yellow Canary Cafe is a good shout too.

For a resort‑style stay out of the bustle of town, 27 Una St Ives is a fresh find where crisp, contemporary lodges cluster round a spa, pool, gym and decent restaurant (Una Kitchen). It's a great base to retreat to after a day on the beach, its huge semi‑tropical plants creating a luscious landscape and privacy from other guests – even when you're in your private hot tub.

Similarly, 28 Carbis Bay Estate has everything on‑site – including a pearly sand beach. Dine at Ugly Butterfly Restaurant & Bar for creative fine dining with wow‑factor or head downstairs to experience the culinary drama of Walter's On The Beach, where theatrical cocktails and desserts served in glass bowls swirling with smoke are paired with moody lighting and a grown‑up vibe. In summer, it's rather special to dine outdoors on the generous decking with festoon lighting, the rushing waves almost reaching your table before they're sucked back out to sea.

Find more things to do and places to stay on this route at southwest660.com, and get more dining and high‑end coffee shop recommendations in the region from trenchermans-guide.com and the latest Independent Coffee Guide (indycoffee.guide).

Note: EV charging provision changes all the time, and sometimes chargers are out of order, so it's worth checking on Zap‑Map or calling hotels ahead of your visit.

Nearby charging: Carbis Bay Estate, St Ives, TR26 2NP. 2 x chargers (Tesla Type 2).

27

'For a resort‑style stay out of the bustle of town, Una St Ives is a fresh find'

Ashburton

Packed with ancient pubs, indie eateries and next-gen delis, the vibrant town of Ashburton deserves its growing reputation as the gourmet gateway to the moors, says Rosanna Rothery

Staycation guide

Cafe Latino

Where to stay

Crammed with historic inns, antique shops, butchers, delis, fishmongers and bakeries, Ashburton is a thriving mini metropolis on the edge of the moors and a worthy destination for a staycation. However, with the jewel in Dartmoor's hotel crown just down the road, some may be tempted to delve into the town's delights by day and retreat to country‑house grandeur by night. At Bovey Castle, you can play out your Downton‑Abbey‑meets‑modern‑luxe fantasy and de‑frazzle in its Elan Spa, sip cocktails on the terrace, soak up views of Dartmoor, dine in the Great Western Grill (reopening in mid‑June) and enjoy a spot of outdoorsy fun such as falconry or a jaunt around the countryside in a shire‑horse‑drawn carriage à la Lady Mary.

Take your pick from 60 unique rooms or, for a private rural escape, stay in one of the 22 country lodges tucked away in the grounds. As you might hope from such a rural setting, it's pooch friendly so no need to put Fido in kennels.

Other just‑out‑of‑town accommodation worth the five‑minute drive is family‑run Furzeleigh Mill, which offers ten attractive bedrooms refurbished by award‑winning designer Geoff Sellick. Dinner in its atmospheric 16th‑century The Mill Room restaurant is a quintessential part of the Furzeleigh experience and centres around classic dishes such as Dartmoor hogget with courgette puree, anchovy juice, tapenade and pommes anna.

If you're staying in town, take a tip from Ashburton Cookery School which opts to house some of its students in Ashburton Court 79. The B&B, run by Chris and Suzy Pool, is a Georgian villa in the centre of town with six bedrooms and an apartment. With homely rooms, and an attractive orangery and lounge, it's a comfortable base from which to go exploring or take one of the cookery school's tempting array of short courses such as Artisan Bread Making or Patisserie Plus.

Bovey Castle

Bovey Castle

Furzeleigh Mill

Where to eat

The town's creative indie spirit is reflected in the number of charming places there are to find something authentic and seasonal to eat. A day of delicious discoveries begins at The Old Library, where chefs Joe Suttie and Amy Mitchell are famed for their sumptuous brekkies and brunches. The former library, kitted out with handcrafted wooden furniture, makes for a rustic rendezvous where you can tuck into the likes of a Curious Croissant (a twist on the French favourite with smoked streaky bacon, avo and poached egg).

Those seeking a plant‑based brunch will want to experience the world cuisine on offer at Rafikis Pots of greenery and a mural by artist Jane Cabrera create a vibrant kick‑back‑and‑relax vibe at the veggie and vegan cafe. Its eclectic menu reflects owner Susie Moss' passion for travel: Vietnamese street food sits alongside Moroccan and Indian dishes, while everything from bread to kimchi is made in‑house from local produce. Return after sunset to sample its selection of “smackerells” – snacks designed to be shared (or selfishly hoarded for solitary pleasure).

Cosy osteria Emilia is a superb find if you're seeking an intimate dinner. It only opened in 2022, but the Italian restaurant has already attracted a Michelin Bib Gourmand and slew of favourable reviews. A family‑style wooden table takes centre stage in a snug dining room which is furnished with mismatched seating and vintage light fittings; it's more like the kind of place you'd expect to stumble upon in the backstreets of Bologna than in a Devon town.

Inspired by trips to the northern Italian region of Emilia‑Romagna, owners Clare Lattin and Tom Hill (the duo behind London's Ducksoup and Little Duck The Picklery) ensure delicious new dishes, small plates and its signature offal offering are chalked up daily on the blackboard menu. Like all osterias it specialises in good wines, so dinner can be matched with a line‑up of interesting pours sourced from small sustainable vineyards.

Alternatively, for can't‑knock‑it‑down cheer head to Pachanga! where you can party on a heady mix of sourdough pizzas, South American‑style cocktails and music plus specials such as enchiladas, bolas de arroz and tiramisu trifle. The locals' favourite is You Won't Regret It, a scrumptious sourdough pizza topped with mozzarella, tomato sauce, gorgonzola, toasted almonds and thyme.

Emilia

Pachanga!

Rafikis

Where to drink

The town used to be famous for a tipple known as Ashburton Pop ‑ the recipe is said to have been based on Champagne but is now lost to time. So it's fitting that this ancient stannary town has many locations in which to imbibe beautifully crafted beverages.

One of the most historic is Old Exeter Inn which, built in 1130, is one of the oldest pubs in the country. Legend has it that Sir Francis Drake and Sir Walter Raleigh were former patrons, so you'll be in good company when you raise a glass. Choose from the array of taps dispensing award‑winning UK and international craft beers or hit the hard stuff via its selection of spirits.

Italian musician Davide Berlande used to make a daily run into Ashburton in his Ape Piaggio coffee van. The routine didn't last, however, as he fell so in love with the town that he set up Cafe Latino (sister to Pachanga!) which serves hot drinks alongside refreshing smoothies such as the Sueno Exotico (pineapple, mango, papaya and coconut milk). These are best paired with pastries from Lamaro Bakery in Totnes and decadent sandwiches, including La Mano de Dios (mozzarella, spinach, figs, toasted almonds and rosemary honey).

Coljan is an excellent spot for speciality coffee, offering blends roasted at Buckfastleigh's Voyager Coffee. Also on the cafe and restaurant's drinks list are natural wines, beer from local producer PowderKeg and regionally sourced gins. For afternoon tea, a trip to Taylor's is a must for its fantastic array of loose‑leaf brews, awesome bakes and upbeat playlists.

Where to shop

Delicious aromas seep into Ashburton's streets and lure passersby into all kinds of exciting foodie outlets. The waft of speciality coffee draws many to Creamo's Craft Ice Cream, a locals' secret at the bottom of St Lawrence Lane where you can pick up a trinity of delights to go: ice cream, pastries and coffee. Matai Jowitt crafts small‑batch ice creams made from Riverford Organic milk and cream, as well as equally delicious vegan versions. Former roaster Rachael serves top‑notch coffee from beans crafted at Voyager Coffee. Be sure to arrive early on the weekend to get your pick of the pastries and cakes.

Foodies will also want to fill their bags at The Fish Deli, where Devon landed, sustainable and seasonal seafood is accompanied by dishes for the supper table, such as soused mackerel with red onion, pink peppercorns and fennel seeds in a sweet‑cure pickle.

Other gourmet outlets include Jaded Palates for wine and spirits, Dartmoor Butchers for local meats, Briar Bakery for a decent sourdough and Ashburton Delicatessen for everything from savoury bakes to local cheeses.

Antique, gift and homeware shops abound in this indie‑rich town, but you'll also stumble across some unusual specialist outlets such as Quirky Bird (retro‑ and vintage‑style clothes) and Gnash Comics (graphic novels and comics for all ages).

Cafe Latino

Creamo's Craft Ice Cream

REVIEWS

Ronnie's of Thornbury

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

In 2007, chef Ronnie Faulkner was searching for a space in the South West to establish his first restaurant. After looking in Bristol, Bath and Cheltenham, he was surprised to discover his perfect venue – a Grade II-listed former schoolhouse – in the market town of Thornbury.

If, as planned, Ronnie had settled in one of the South West's major cities, it's impossible to predict if the restaurant would have survived the past 16 years of hospitality highs and lows. However, in this town ten miles from Bristol where a sense of community prevails, Ronnie's has stood the test of time and is a blueprint for the kind of neighbourhood restaurant foodies dream of having minutes from their door.

When we visited on a Friday night in early April, the beautifully rustic dining room was full of local families marking special occasions. Ronnie's refined menus cross borders and time zones, which gives them broad appeal, while the service is so friendly that even out-of-towners feel welcomed into the fold.

WHO'S COOKING?

South African-born chef-patron Ronnie worked with some of the greats (including Anton Mosimann and Bruno Loubet) in the early days of his career and their influence is still apparent in his immaculately presented dishes. Inspiration may be gathered globally, but much of the produce used is sourced locally and the seasonal menus tweaked daily, according to the ingredients Ronnie and team can get their hands on.

WHAT TO ORDER?

There are two- (£45) and three-course (£55) à la carte options, but both the indecisive and the frugal will be drawn to the six-course tasting menu (£65) which showcases the kitchen's work at an incredibly reasonable price.

On our spring visit, the tasting bill had a fishy leaning and highlights included delicate slices of pastrami-cured salmon served with pickled and torched cucumber, pickled shimeji mushrooms, firecracker harissa and a nosetickling wasabi cream. A pan-fried fillet of striped bass embellished with a black olive and pine nut crust, presented on a bed of shredded roasted Mediterranean vegetables and finished with a punchy lemon gel instantly transported us to the sun-drenched south.

The single meat course was a blushed cut of West Country lamb layered in pâté and served in a delicate pastry casing, presented with baby leeks and a fermented and burnt shallot puree. Expertly executed, it was bang-on for seasonality.

Dessert courses continued to delight, with a light and citrusy blood-orange crème brûlée followed by a boozy chocolate and cherry combo comprising a rich cocoa parfait, zingy cherry sorbet, chocolate crumb and crème chantilly.

FOOD'S TIP

Ronnie's keeps a very good wine cellar so diners indulging in the tasting menu should take advantage of its thoughtful pairings. A glass of the Woodchester Valley Cuvée, produced just 20 miles away, is a delicious way to kick off proceedings.

ronnies-restaurant.co.uk

Quality neighbourhood restaurants are becoming increasingly rare, but this relaxed fine-dining venue confirms they're a phenomenon worth fighting for, says Kathryn Lewis

11 St Mary Street, Thornbury, Bristol, BS35 2AB

Bybrook

The Manor House showcases an imaginatively fresh makeover of both its dining room and tasting menu, discovers Jo Rees

Castle Combe, Wiltshire, SN14 7HX

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Fourteenth-century The Manor House in Wiltshire has been a stalwart of South West country-house-hotel hospitality for years, delivering ancient-panelling-meets-swags-andtails-grandeur to complement the Austen-esque charms of Castle Combe, in which it resides. Indeed, such is the historic vibe of the village that it's usually teeming with tourists taking selfies in front of its golden-stone cottages.

Mostly, The Manor House has remained faithful to this old-school ambience, eschewing the likes of an infinity pool and hot tubs in favour of the traditional rural pastimes of golf and a hearty walk (posh wellies are provided). Yet shoots of modernity have burst through in the hotel's fine-dining restaurant, Bybrook, via a luscious botanical makeover and some exceptional contemporary cooking.

WHO'S COOKING?

Exec chef Rob Potter heads up the pass. He earnt the restaurant a Michelin star in 2017 and has retained it ever since. Rob's CV covers a number of high-calibre venues across the UK and, prior to his move to The Manor House, he worked under Hywel Jones at Lucknam Park in Wiltshire. In this current role he gets to enjoy a similar bounty of homegrown produce from which to craft fine-dining dishes.

WHAT TO ORDER?

It's a tasting menu set-up at Bybrook – unless you're staying a few nights and want a change of dining pace, in which case the kitchen team will rustle up something off-menu.

Tasting menus can be laborious in the wrong hands so it's refreshing to discover that Rob has reworked the genre as a light and thoroughly modern experience.

Highlights of the seven courses we ate included a canapé-sized morsel of ChalkStream trout with oyster, wasabi and roe, wrapped in crisp nori and intended to be devoured in a single mouthful. The joy-sparking sequence of notes and textures it delivered were sensational in the true meaning of the word and heightened further by a pairing of Litmus' Orange Bacchus from Surrey.

Another knockout moment of our visit was the umami richness of slow-cooked featherblade beef which accompanied a slice of olive-fed wagyu fillet with Yukon Gold potato and celeriac, while a dessert of Yorkshire rhubarb in its various incarnations was fizzing, sharp, crisp, creamy and aesthetically gorgeous in equal measure.

However, the most glorious juncture of the experience was a pre-dessert that arrived on chilled and velvety porcelain, shaped like a curvy flying saucer. Within it was a confection that comprised textures from the smoothest sorbet to cloud-like fluff to posset cream, with flavours of coconut, mango, passionfruit and kaffir lime – the latter lingering on the palate like sweet jasmine in the evening air. ‘Everyone likes that one best,’ confirmed our waiter.

At Bybrook guests don't have to exercise the usual bread-basket restraint as crisp carbs are included as one of the courses. An exquisite laminated brioche, served with cultured butter, demands that diners dive in unselfconsciously. We suggest ignoring the golden shards that fly everywhere as you tear into its supple innards –it's worth every moment you spend picking them off your shirt later.

FOOD'S TIPS

Order the wine flight – it's beautifully crafted, the glassware gorgeous and the sommelier so cheerfully engaging it will take your evening next-level.

exclusive.co.uk

The Godolphin

There's a lot to love about this destination dining hotel in the heart of Marazion, discovers Selena Young

West End, Marazion, Cornwall, TR17 0EN

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Curling up in the porthole window carved into your room, drinking in the dreamy vista of St Michael's Mount's Disney-esque castle and the waves that rhythmically lap at its shore.

The Godolphin's location above Marazion Beach makes it an ideal base for visitors wanting to explore the tidal island just half a mile off the Cornish coast, but then retreat to the comfort of the hotel for dinner at its restaurant Shutters.

The Godolphin was sold in late 2020 and its new owners have rolled out a bohemian-chic revamp. Funky finishing touches such as rattan peacock chairs, Persian- and Berber-style rugs, and jazzy cushions and lampshades create a fun yet relaxed vibe which complements the laid-back atmosphere of the hotel.

In the reception area, a plethora of houseplants and exotic animals add welcome-to-thejungle energy: big cats and monkeys scale the wallpaper, an ornamental tiger guards the desk and decorative birds perch on shelves. If you're into the aesthetic, chase your check-in with an Into the Jungle cocktail (Cape Cornwall Spiced Rum, pineapple, bitters, maraschino cherry and mint) at Shutters Bar.

WHO'S COOKING?

Head chef Gareth Crosby has captained The Godolphin kitchen since March 2023. He builds his menus for Shutters around local ingredients – from the seafood caught by Cornish dayboats to meat and veg from nearby farms. The quality produce is crafted into classic dishes that emphasise the natural flavours of land and sea.

WHAT TO ORDER?

Perusing an à la carte menu awash with fish and shellfish against a backdrop of white-peaked waves is guaranteed to rouse the appetite of any seafood fan.

We dived straight in with fresh Cornish crab piled on lightly toasted sourdough. Not an ingredient to be messed around with, the luscious crab meat was simply garnished with slices of red chilli, shards of samphire, a few coriander leaves and a spritz of lime.

Those who can't turn down the nostalgic appeal of a prawn cocktail will be delighted to discover Gareth's pimped-up version of the ultimate throwback starter. Plump crayfish, doused in mayo and warming chipotle, were served on an avocado puree laced with pineapple juice and served with baby gem leaves and nachos.

Mains continued to showcase the fruits of the sea: a chunky fillet of Cornish hake with crisp jerusalem artichoke and charred radicchio, lavished with elderflower and honey cream, delivered a winning medley of textures and complementary flavours. The day's special of grilled lemon sole stuffed with brown shrimp and bathed in crab butter positively sparkled thanks to its footnote of aromatic braised fennel.

Finally, a tropical pud of pineapple carpaccio finished the meal on a heart-stoppingly sweet high. Mirror-thin slices of poached pineapple soaked in spiced rum, saffron and caramel were layered with coconut sorbet, dehydrated coconut and a crown of crisp pineapple.

FOOD'S TIP

If you miss out on the house-smoked St Ives salmon at dinner, make up for it at breakfast. The buttery, salty-yet-sweet salmon is delish served with scrambled eggs and sourdough.

thegodolphin.com

The Holcombe

Running this 17th-century Somerset inn is a labour of love for its hardworking owners whose kitchen garden inspires a delicious and imaginative menu, writes

Rosanna Rothery

Stratton Road, Holcombe, Somerset, BA3 5EB

WHAT'S THE DRAW?

Flavour-packed creations crafted from fruit and vegetables that only hours (sometimes minutes) earlier were growing in The Holcombe's own kitchen garden, now attractively plated with homegrown flowers and herbs.

Alan Lucas and Caroline Gardiner have created one of the most environmentally conscious inns in the country. Not only do they compost all the food waste and recycle cooking oil into biodiesel, they also have wildlife-friendly plots among their raised beds and aim to use every single part of each plant via pickling, fermenting and preserve-making.

Gluts of veg are turned into salsas and sauces, inhabitants of garden beehives make the honey, and foraged sloes and elderflowers are used to flavour gins. All the furnishings are British made, while meat and fish are sourced locally from nearby farmers and fishermen.

WHO'S COOKING

Alan is a one-man prepping, pickling and preserving machine and relishes finding creative new ways to use the produce from the plots and polytunnel. It's his passion to ensure everything, from the sourdough bagels at breakfast to the ricotta-style cheese at dinner and the ice cream served with pudding, is made in-house. His background, co-running a London catering and events company with Caroline, has equipped him with the skills to conjure up new dishes from the morning's harvest on the hop.

Caroline also worked as a chef but now prefers to use her skills front of house to create a comfortable and welcoming stay for guests.

WHAT TO ORDER

Every single dish we ordered looked exquisite (colourful and scattered with the garden's edible flowers) and tasted arrestingly good – with produce this fresh, flavours zing.

A starter of ricotta dumplings, pickled and pureed carrots, and garden chilli offered comfort, tang and heat in a single forkful. For mains, a special of Creedy Carver duck was divinely tender, the bird having been christened with a honey-soy glaze and baptised in a beetroot and orange sauce.

Vegetarians and vegans should know the veg-centric dishes are also fantastic. Our slow-cooked aubergine was beautifully warming and offset with Old Winchester cheese, tomato confit and garden onions in crispy tempura jackets.

As you might expect, puddings were far from standard pub fare and the likes of rhubarb trifle with honeycomb were an excellent finale.

FOOD'S TIP

Those who enjoy a good yomp down country lanes will want to stay over in one of the restful rooms or garden lodges. The inn is surrounded by fields and makes for a calming rural retreat. It's also a lovely base from which to explore nearby cities like Wells, Bath and Bristol.

Thankfully the breakfast offering steers clear of bogstandard buffet territory. Instead, in the morning you'll be greeted with a sumptuous bespoke feast (ordered the night before) which includes homemade sourdough bread and bagels, rhubarb and vanilla jam, compote crafted with garden berries and your choice of hot-from-the-stove dishes.

The list of local draught ales, bottled beers and gins is also worth exploring. On a summer evening, it's lovely to sit at the long table on the terrace sipping The Holcombe Collins cocktail (rhubarb gin and compote, lime and soda) and watch golden rays silhouetting the tower of Downside Abbey. theholcombe.com

5 of the best

SUMMER GINS

From the Cornish coast to the wilds of Dartmoor, we've worked our way around the South West's craft distilleries to discover the best gins for summertime sipping

1 Lantic Gin, Lostwithiel

Waves of refreshing coastal characteristics make this Cornish gin the perfect afternoon tipple in shorts and T-shirt weather.

Foraged herbs and native plants from the Cornish coastline – including heather, rock samphire, gorse flower, apple mint, water mint and lemon thyme – are blended with classic botanicals and soft spring water to create the sea-inspired Lantic Gin.

Delicate floral and juniper notes come through on the nose, while its smooth palate reveals a complex herbaceousness with hints of spice and citrus.

Produced by Skylark Distillery, Lantic Gin is crafted by distiller Alex PalmerSamborne who creates gins that capture the character of Cornwall.

Perfect serve: pour a good measure over ice, top with a premium Mediterranean tonic and garnish with a slice of cucumber and wedge of lime.

lanticgin.com

2 Papillon Ruby Gin, Dartmoor

For a summer drink evocative of sun-soaked adventures in the great outdoors, try this zesty Dartmoor gin. The artisan spirit delivers a citrus kick, thanks to its use of ruby red grapefruit, and is followed by a lingering juniper finish.

It's inspired by the sunny explorations of founding distillers Adam and Claire, who thread the surrounding landscape through everything they do at the Dartmoor distillery. All of their spirits are named after butterflies (Papillon donates one per cent of sales from each bottle to Butterfly Conservation), with this particular spirit named after the Ruby Tiger Moth.

In addition to traditional botanicals, Adam and Claire use locally grown and foraged ingredients and pure Dartmoor spring water to create their Devon gins.

Perfect serve: pour a double measure over ice, top with Fever-Tree Indian or Luscombe Devon Tonic Water and garnish with a slice of red grapefruit.

papillongin.co.uk

3 The Wrecking Coast Clotted Cream Gin, Camelford

Wrecking Coast's flagship spirit splashed onto the scene in 2016 and continues to hold a prominent position in gin connoisseurs' drinks cabinets.

The innovative addition of Rodda's Cornish clotted cream amplifies the 12 robust botanicals used in the gin and creates a uniquely rich texture.

It's the ideal drink for those who like to nurse a spirit straight: founders Avian Sandercock, Craig Penn and Steve Wharton purposefully fashioned a sipping gin that could stand alone or be used as a fabulous base for a G&T.

Perfect serve: soak sliced or muddled fresh strawberries in a measure of gin before adding ice and a splash of quality indian tonic.

thewreckingcoastdistillery.com

4 Loveday Golden Hour Gin, Falmouth

What better tipple to toast a beautiful sunset than this peachy elixir by Loveday Craft Spirit Makers?

Expect bold juniper and spice on the nose, complemented by aromatic and bittersweet notes with pink peppercorn warmth and a smooth mouthfeel. The experience ends with a lingering cardamom and clean grapefruit finish.

The spirit is crafted by an all-female team: Ruth, Daisy and Chloe have combined their experiences in food preparation, recipe development, food science, alcohol production and design to create this smooth sip. The ladies recommend cracking open a bottle when the weather is warm and the sun soft and low in the sky.

Perfect serve: pour over ice and top with a premium tonic and a squeeze of grapefruit. lovedaydistilling.com

5 Pothecary Gin

Sicilian Blend, Christchurch

Originally intended as a limited-edition release, this Sicilian-inspired creation from Pothecary Gin in Dorset proved so popular it's become a permanent fixture in the collection.

Roasted Sicilian almonds, juniper and French gentian root bring subtle nuttiness and toasty warmth to the gin, which is balanced by the refreshing citrus bite and sweet notes of Sicilian orange and lemon peels.

To make the organic spirit, craft distiller Martin Jennings distils each botanical separately then blends them together before diluting. Taking this hands-on approach yields elevated aromas and flavours that are well balanced and delectable.

Perfect serve: pour over ice, add a splash of ginger syrup, top with soda water and garnish with a slice of fresh orange. pothecarygin.co.uk

WEEKEND COOKING

Recipes from the South West's leading chefs and producers

Serves 4

For the lamb terrine:

Lamb leg 1, boned and rolled (ask your butcher for the bones)

Red wine 500ml

Rosemary 2 sprigs

Thyme 2 sprigs

Garlic bulb 1, halved

Shallots 2 large, peeled and diced

For the pickled carrots:

Carrots 2, peeled and ribboned

Salt 5g

White wine vinegar 100ml

Caster sugar 50g

Star anise 1

Cloves 2

Peppercorns 4

Bay leaves 2

For the mint oil:

Fresh mint a handful

Extra virgin olive oil 100ml

For the potato straw:

Maris Piper potatoes 2, peeled and grated

Salt 25g

Broad beans 100g, shelled and blanched

Lamb terrine with pickled carrots, broad beans, mint oil and potato straw

Recipe by Toby Hembury, head chef of Heron Farm near Honiton, Devon

1 For the lamb terrine: preheat the oven to 80°C / gas ½. Put all the ingredients, including the lamb bones, in a deep tray, cover with foil and cook for 8 hours until the lamb is tender and can be pulled apart.

2 Remove the lamb meat from the liquor, shred and put aside. Reserve a cup of the liquor, place in a saucepan and reduce by half. Combine the reduced liquor with the lamb and season to taste.

3 Line a terrine mould with 3 layers of clingfilm, leaving enough clingfilm hanging over the sides to cover the top. Transfer the lamb mixture into the mould, cover with the clingfilm and place a heavy object on top. Put the terrine in the fridge to set overnight.

4 For the pickled carrots: in a bowl, mix the carrots with the salt and leave for 1 hour. Place the remaining ingredients in a pan over a medium heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the liquid into a jar and, while still hot, add the salted carrots. Leave to pickle overnight.

5 For the mint oil: combine the mint and oil and leave to steep for 2 hours.

6 For the potato straw: in a bowl, mix the grated potatoes and salt and leave for 10 minutes. Using a clean tea towel, squeeze the moisture from the potatoes then deep-fry them at 150°C until golden.

7 To serve: slice the terrine into 1cm pieces and glaze with a drizzle of mint oil. Plate the terrine with the pickled carrots, broad beans and potato straw, and finish with a further drizzle of mint oil.

heron-farm.co.uk

‘The terrine will serve more than four, but any leftovers can be frozen for future use,’ says Toby

‘The flavours in this dish are developed during a long, slow cook in a wood‑fired barbecue or smoker. If you don’t have seasoned wood use quality charcoal,’ says Nigel

Pulled pork with barbecue sauce and slaw

Recipe by Nigel Webster of Cut to the Smoke

Serves 6‑8

For the pulled pork:

Bone-in pork shoulder 3kg

Mild mustard 100g

Cut to the Smoke Smokey

BBQ Chilli seasoning 100g

Apple juice 25ml

Cider vinegar 25ml

For the barbecue sauce:

Olive oil 1 tbsp

Onion 1, peeled and finely chopped

Chopped tomatoes 400g

Garlic cloves 3, peeled and finely chopped

Brown sugar 85g

Malt vinegar 3 tbsp

Worcestershire sauce 2 tbsp

Tomato puree 1 tbsp

For the slaw:

Red cabbage ½, finely shredded

Pointed cabbage ½, finely shredded

Red onion 1, peeled and finely sliced

Carrots 2, peeled and grated

Brioche buns 6-8

1 For the pulled pork: preheat the barbecue or smoker to 130°C.

2 Cover the pork on all sides with the mustard, then the Smokey BBQ Chilli seasoning. Place the pork in the barbecue (with lid on) or smoker and cook for 8 hours.

3 Combine the apple juice and vinegar and place in a spritzer bottle. After 3 hours of cooking, spritz the pork with the vinegar mixture every hour until 8 hours have elapsed.

4 Remove the pork from the barbecue and wrap it tightly in tin foil. Return the pork to the barbecue and cook for a further 2 hours, until it has the feel of a melted pack of butter.

5 Remove the pork from the barbecue and leave to rest in the foil for 40 minutes.

6 For the barbecue sauce: heat the oil in a heavy-based pan and add the onion. Cook over a gentle heat for 4-5 minutes until the onion begins to soften.

7 Add the remaining ingredients, increase the temperature and bring the sauce to the boil. Simmer for 15-20 minutes until thick and silky.

8 Remove the sauce from the heat. Use a stick blender to blitz the sauce until smooth.

9 For the slaw: combine all the ingredients in a large bowl.

10 To serve: unwrap the pork and shred using two forks. Add a generous ladle of the barbecue sauce and stir through.

11 Serve the pulled pork in brioche buns with a spoonful of slaw and an extra dollop of barbecue sauce.

cuttothesmoke.co.uk

THE DRINKS CURATOR

Drinks pro Susy Atkins reveals her seasonal pick of the pack

Casual cafe recipes to make at home

COVE DEVON POTATO VODKA

There are plenty of reasons to throw a party this season, from the Coronation to Eurovision via three bank holidays, so cocktails may well be called for.

This notably smooth, slightly creamy and fresh vodka, made in Hope Cove from the distillers' own-farmed potatoes, makes a premium base for many classic mixes. And don't forget the Bloody Marys the next day ...

£39.50

devoncove.co.uk

out now

Easy-to-make dishes from some of the UK’s best cafes indycoffee.guide

£20. Order now at

№13 Wild cherries

More sour and less sweet than the farmed varieties, wild cherries work brilliantly in both sweet and savoury dishes and will add a pop of colour to the plate.

SOURCE Wild cherry trees are common across the South West and can be found in woodlands, hedgerows and parks. The fruit are usually ready to pick in mid May and can be harvested until the end of June. When ripe, they'll be deep red in colour and look plump, juicy and good enough to eat.

If you can't find a local tree, wild cherries can sometimes be found in farm shops.

PREP Wash the cherries under cold water and remove the stones (they're poisonous).

The flowers, which start to appear in March, can be picked, washed and used to make cherry blossom vinegar. We have a cherry tree in the grounds of Boringdon Hall but it's so old we can't reach the fruit. Instead, we use the blossoms to flavour vinegar.

SERVE I love using these cherries in savoury dishes and my go-to pairing is duck. This spring at Àclèaf, we'll serve pan-fried duck breast with a cherry sauce, which will be finished with our own blossom vinegar.

When cherries are in season I'll often preserve them by steeping the pitted fruit in a lightly salted solution. The saltiness adds an interesting contrast to their natural sourness, and preserving them means I can use them in dishes throughout the year.

Of course, cherries are also fantastic in desserts. I'd recommend distilling their flavour by making a compote and using it as the filling for a cherry pie or as an accompaniment to creamy puddings such as vanilla pannacotta. Lean into the late spring vibe by adding freshly foraged elderflower to the compote.

acleaf.co.uk

Scott's hero ingredients

Scott Paton, head chef of Àclèaf in Plymouth, reveals his seasonal hero ingredient and shares a few tips on how to prepare it at home

Brownies and birthdays

and snow days and Sundays and hot chocolates

and thank yous and

and picnics and pancakes crumbles

CREAM TEAS and

Everything’s better WITH

The great (gourmet) escape

Flee to Falmouth this summer to feast on phenomenal seafood and imbibe titillating cocktails at The Greenbank's harbourside hideout

You don't need a reason to retreat to Falmouth this summer – its inviting sandy beach, buzzy high street and bustling harbour provide plenty of excuses to escape the day-to-day – but if you must justify your decision, let The Greenbank's Gourmet Getaway seal the deal.

Located just close enough to the action to dip a toe in, yet far enough from the centre of town that guests can unwind to the gentle rhythm of the Fal Estuary which flows beneath their bedroom windows, The Greenbank has been a refuge for Falmouth's weary travellers since 1813.

Seafood takes a starring role on the seasonal menus, with fresh fish from local boats delivered to the kitchen daily. Those who visit in summer can expect to feast on the likes of hake loin with lobster butter and caper crushed potatoes. Available to book throughout May and June, the Gourmet Getaway enables guests to delight in the stunning waterside setting and experience the fabulous food at a very reasonable price. Rooms start at £329 for two and include a three-course meal (to the price of £90 per room), a cocktail on arrival, a full Cornish breakfast the next morning and a jute bag of foodie goodies to take home.

Those wishing to extend their stay in Cornwall can take advantage of the offer for as many nights as they desire, giving them more time to navigate the South West Coast Path, explore the town's cobbled streets and courtyards, and sink a sundowner at The Greenbank's own pub The Working Boat.

greenbank-hotel.co.uk

While its history is honoured throughout the hotel (spot pictures of its past displayed in hallways and rooms named in honour of famous guests such as Florence Nightingale), more recently it's gained a glowing reputation for its Water's Edge restaurant. Executive chef Nick Hodges works closely with head chef Bobby Southworth to fashion hyper-local Cornish ingredients into creative dishes that delight.

Fabulous Sea Views • Delicious Food Orangery, Garden Terrace and Decking

BOOKING: 01297 442010 | www.hotelalexandra.co.uk

THE ACORN INN

The Acorn Inn is a beautiful 16th century public house situated in the charming village of Evershot.Be welcomed by our warm & friendly team to stay in one of our 10 individually decorated bedrooms.

Join us for lunch, dinner & drinks in our award winning restaurant or bar where we serve fresh local produce, signature gins, real cask ales & an extensive wine list.

Let the good times roll

A humble cart parked in a narrow street in Lyme Regis' artisan quarter is serving some of the best lobster rolls (or “lobbiedogs”) this side of the Atlantic

No trip to Lyme Regis is complete without sampling the local seafood, but if you can't be bothered with the faff of crab crackers and lobster mallets or forgot to book a table (the staycation destination heaves in spring and summer), make a beeline for the pastel-pink cart parked outside Millside on Mill Lane.

A product of lockdown, the lobbiedog was the star dish of Millside's gourmet takeaway offering in the summers of 2020 and 2021. A bread roll crammed with juicy Devon lobster, avocado puree, chives, baby gem lettuce and homemade paprika and saffron mayo, it received such roaring praise that, when the restaurant reopened, the team were inundated with requests from locals and returning visitors.

The lobster roll's street-food format wasn't the right fit for Millside's refined menus. However, the team came up with the perfect solution: a takeaway cart that could be rolled out in warmer months.

For optimum freshness, the lobster rolls are crafted to order and filled with locally sourced ingredients. The hero crustaceans are caught by the fourth‑generation fishing family at Beer Fisheries, the soft rolls baked by Charmouth Bakery and the leaves plucked from Trill Farm in Musbury.

Georgina Baker, Millside co-owner and head chef, says: ‛One of the best spots to enjoy a lobbiedog is at Lyme Regis Brewery opposite the restaurant, where you can sit and pair your roll with a chilled beer. We'll even drop your order to your table when it's ready. Failing that, take your lobbie to the beach – but watch out for beady‑eyed seagulls!’

Georgina and team collaborated with the brewery on a special homemade bratwurst hot dog for Oktoberfest, and occasionally sell tins of artisan smoked oysters and fish tacos from the cart.

Find the lobster cart parked up at the edge of the restaurant's Med-style terrace on Mill Lane from April to September, where it serves its seafood spoils from 12pm Mondays to Fridays. There's no specific closing time as they nearly always sell out, so be sure to visit early to secure your lobbiedog or call ahead and ask the team to put one aside.

themillside.co.uk

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Chefs like Jane Dunn, who graduated from our fulltime, intensive Diploma in Culinary Arts programme before launching her career in food. Today she

has over 1.5 million followers on social media, has released two best selling ‘Jane’s Patisserie’ cook books and is now sharing her love for baking to millions on television.

Whether you want to become an accomplished chef, start a food business or launch a career in food, your journey starts in Ashburton.

Jane Dunn

Jane’s Patisserie

Best Selling Author, Blogger & TV Chef

a case of Devon Rosé cider

When the first spring rays bathe the South West in sunshine, the hiss of caps being popped off cider bottles and post-first-sip sighs of unguarded pleasure can be heard in gardens across the region.

The team at Sandford Orchards in Devon shout about the versatility, sustainability and thirst-quenching deliciousness of the fermented drink all year round, but it's in the warmer months – when pub gardens fill with day-trippers seeking post-walk refreshment and friends gather round barbecues – that the cidermakers get the attention they deserve.

Sandford's latest release is Devon Rosé, a skin-contact blush cider that calls to be sipped on a beach, a picnic blanket or in a leafy pub garden. Made from English apples (Browns, Katja and Jane varieties) and Pinot Noir grape

skins from Lyme Bay Winery in Devon, it's a medium-sweet cider that will appeal to both serious cider drinkers and those simply looking for fruit-forward refreshment.

If you're entertaining friends or family, the Sandford team recommend serving it with a traditional Devon high tea. Its delicate flavours and clean fresh finish also make it a great match for goat's cheese – try pairing it with a summer salad or creamy risotto.

We've teamed up with Sandford Orchards to gear up five lucky readers for barbecue season by giving them a case of Devon Rosé.

THE PRIZE Five winners will each receive a 12-bottle case of Devon Rosé.

THE QUESTION In which county is Sandford Orchards located?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is June 30, 2023.

sandfordorchards.co.uk

a foodie overnighter in Cornwall

Experience Escoffier-inspired dishes with a modern twist at this traditional coaching inn in the Cornish village of Ladock.

A quaint 17th-century inn situated on what was once the main road into west Cornwall, The Falmouth Arms has everything you could wish for in a cosy country inn: a snug bar area, a roaring open fire and oodles of historic charm.

Chef-owner Kevin Viner is a stalwart of the Cornish food scene, having become the county's first Michelin-starred chef in 1993 during his tenure at Pennypots in Blackwater (an accolade he retained for nine years). He went on to work at various establishments – including a stint as a private chef for the Prince and Princess of Monaco – before taking on The Falmouth Arms with his wife Jill in 2018.

Having experimented with different culinary styles over the years, Kevin has returned to what he does best: classic French cooking. Expect to find nostalgia-packed dishes, such as twice-baked cheese soufflé and sole véronique, on a line-up that puts the spotlight on quality ingredients.

Book a bed for the night in one of the four attractive rooms upstairs so you can have a glass of wine or two over dinner and a nightcap at the bar. In the morning, indulge in a full cooked breakfast paired with Kevin's own freshly baked bread before you continue on your travels.

THE PRIZE Dinner, bed and breakfast for two, including a glass of Prosecco on arrival.

THE QUESTION At which Cornish restaurant did Kevin earn a Michelin star?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is June 30, 2023.

falmoutharms.com

a build-a-box bundle of garden party drinks

The ingredients for throwing a successful garden party are simple: whip up some delicious food, add a splash of tasteful decoration and stir it all up with a lively playlist. But a great recipe is only elevated to its full potential with the finishing touch of superbly matched top-quality drinks. That's where the pros at Frobishers come in.

At their next garden gathering, one lucky winner can hand over sommelier duties to the Exeter-based flavour gurus and enjoy having two build-a-box bundles of fruit-forward cordials, sparklers, fusions, juices and pressés to fuel their fun.

Frobishers' unique build-a-box scheme means whatever the flavour of the party, the drinks list can be tailored to taste. Fancy some fizz? Fill a box with sparklers like Ginger and Juniper, Crisp Apple and Elderflower, and Rhubarb and Raspberry. Hot day? Cool off with a concoction made using the zingy Lemon and Mint Cordial.

The range is also ideal for adding a fruity kick to homemade cocktails. Check out the Frobishers website for inspiration and recipes – we suggest mixing up a deceptively simple Passionfruit

The taste is even sweeter with the knowledge that these fabulous drinks are crafted with the greatest care for the planet. Frobishers embraces wonky fruit, is a carbon-neutral business, uses 100 per cent recyclable products and plastic-free packaging, and has pledged to halve its greenhouse gas emissions by 2030.

Give our comp a whirl and get garden-party ready with two build-a-box bundles of Frobishers drinks.

THE PRIZE Two Frobishers build-a-box bundles (48 bottles in total) worth £75.

THE QUESTION In which Devon city is Frobishers based?

To enter, visit food-mag.co.uk/win

See the website for individual terms and conditions. Closing date for entries is June 30, 2023.

frobishers.com

Martini using the Orange and Passionfruit Fusion, or a Mango Mojito using Mango Juice.

DARREN MILLGATE

The executive chef of St Michaels Resort in Falmouth reveals his vision of the perfect alfresco feast and the tunes that liven up his kitchen prep

WHICH KITCHEN ITEM COULDN'T YOU LIVE WITHOUT?

My Thermomix: it's such a useful piece of kit. You can use it to cook, blend, steam fish, weigh things – it's hugely versatile.

WHAT DO YOU LISTEN TO IN THE KITCHEN?

We always have music on in the kitchen during prep, but switch it off during service so we can focus on the job at hand.

There are 15 of us in the brigade and we've got diverse musical tastes, so we might listen to Bob Marley one minute and old-school hip-hop the next. My choice is usually heavy rave music, which most people don't enjoy at first but get a feel for as the day goes on.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT TO DATE?

I really enjoy nurturing the next generation of talent, whether they are in the kitchen at St Michaels or when I'm doing teaching days at Cornwall College (where I trained over 20 years ago).

I recently judged a cookery competition for young chefs across the South West and that was a real highlight. I get huge satisfaction from working with youngsters and giving them something to aspire to.

One of the chefs I worked with years ago competed in MasterChef: The Professionals and cited me as a mentor in his application, which meant a lot.

YOUR MOST-READ RECIPE BOOK?

Two books I return to time and again are The French Laundry Cookbook by Thomas Keller and Ottolenghi: The Cookbook

Keller's book tells the story of the kitchen through recipes. I was given it when I was quite young and I've referred back to it many times.

Ottolenghi was a pioneer in creativity with vegetables, which appeals to me as I love cooking seasonally. Twenty years ago, salad was just lettuce, tomato and cucumber but now it's a very different game and I think Ottolenghi was hugely influential in that. I've made many of his salads over the years and like to put my own spin on them.

FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT OUT?

I like The Fox's Revenge in Summercourt near Newquay. The pub specialises in barbecue food and has a lively outdoorsy vibe in summer. It's a great place to meet up with friends and is super family-friendly.

BEST STAYCATION SPOT?

I'm a huge fan of the South West, particularly Devon and Cornwall as they have everything you could ask for: great food, pretty towns and spectacular scenery. There's no need to travel far to experience a change of scene.

DESERT ISLAND MEAL?

Fresh mackerel off the barbecue with a light salad, bread and some pickles. A cold lager would be the perfect pairing. stmichaelsresort.com

fromfarmtotable

Big in local flavour Low in food miles .

Experience a Cornish food revolution showcasing the very best of Cornwall’s farms, fields and waters brought to the plate.