Accessorize Window Display by Samantha Merritt

Advanced Visual Merchandising

Samantha Marie Merritt

History

Welcome to the Fun Fair!

Contents

Initial Research History of Visual Merchandising 1-2 VM Profile and website 3-4 Role of a Visual Merchandiser 5 Shopology documentary 6 My Own Display Research Basic Principles 7 Brand Identity/ knowing your marFinal Window Idea 28-29 ket 8-9 About the Brand: Accesorize 30-35 Advertising and Promotion 10 Accessorize Window Display 36-37 Text Analysis 11-12 Inside Accessorize 38-39 The Customer Journey 13 London inspiration 40-41 Stores as an art space 14 Mulberry spring/ summer 2012 42 Other Store Components 15-16 Louis Vuitton spring/ summer 43 Initial Window Ideas 17 Meadham Kirchhoff spring/ summer 44-45 Principles of Design 18-19 ASOS for inspiration 46-47 Hotel Chocolat and Oasis analogy History of the Funfair 48-49 20-21 Film/ Event/ Seasonal Influences 50-51 Colour and Lighting 22-24 Colour Palette for display 52-53 Hollister analysis 25 ACCESSORIZE flatplan 54 The Initial Design Plans 55 Final Design 56-59 Bibliography 60

People produced their own products - Overproduction and opportunity to sell people travel from town to town selling for profit - central selling places emerged as markets - then to shops Visual Merchandisers can be traced as far back as the 1800s, the Industrial Revolution created an impact on the economy and goods were being manufactured for profits. This created the different classes of wealth, the lower class poorer people would produce the goods in factories and warehouses. Whereas, the middle class would buy the goods. Mass Production - increase in quantity, speed and variety of goods Mass Communication - A need and ability to advertise and to reach a wider audience Emergence of Middle Class - Created a new market with aspirations and more money to spend Increased Competition - They need to differentiate one company’s products from another Windows were small hthough and glass was not a ready-made or easily available product, this turned around in the 1840s. Glass was now being mass-produced. We now have windows in all shapes and sizes and are able to get a lot more creative with the designs we make. Harrods, London create some of the best window displays, all because there windows are so vast and money is no longer in short supply. In 1838 Aristide Boucicaut’s idea of creating a store that sold numerous goods and having everything under one roof was born. Le Bon Marché opened in paris and became the world’s first department store. This idea then continued with Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s in New York, Wanamaker in Philidelphia and Marshall Fields came to Chicago. The 1920s brought with it glamour and wealth. And Gordon Selfridge took what he learned from working at Marshall Fields and applied it to his own London store Selfridges. He was credited for coming up with the phrase “Only _ shopping days until Christmas,” leaving lights on in stores and adding a cafe for his customers. Now, mannequins have been replaced (not completely) with glossy pictures of supermodels, plasma TVs showing the latest catwalk trends and lounge areas for perusing lookbooks.

The Role of aVisual Merchandiser

Kaisa Leinonen’s Blog “Harvey Nichols seems to have gone back to ice age with their 2011 Christmas windows. At first glance this series of windows reminds me of those of Harrods’ Crystal Christmas windows. The use of cheap materials such as cling film, bubble wrap and polystyrene proves otherwise. The look is very artistic and thrown together with an unfinished feel. With the current economic climate in mind, there is no better time to do a Christmas like this.”

http://thewindowdisplayblog.com/

The Four P’s

roduct rice lace romotion

Kaisa’s blog is informal but gives the reader all the information they need from a passing glance. It is easy to read and understandable for people who would not normally look at the site. It offers a wide range of images from London stores from every different fashion Seasons.

Display designers and visual merchandisers use their design skills to help promote the image, products and services of businesses and other organisations. Visual merchandisers are responsible for presenting products in a way that attracts customers and maximises sales, through the creation of eye-catching product displays and store layout and design. In a large retail company, you would work as part of a display team and follow design plans that were created at head office by a visual merchandising manager or senior display designer. To some extent the roles of display designers and visual merchandisers may overlap, but display designers usually focus on designing and producing point-of-sale displays, the stock container itself, visual, graphic and structural elements and how it is displayed in store. Senior visual merchandisers are responsible for planning the store display themesfor the year, creating visual plans and buying in the appropriate models, props, equipment and signage. A VM’s day-to-day tasks might include: - Designing ideas for displays, or following a company design plan - Developing floor plans - Sourcing materials - Maximising the space and layout of the store - Dressing mannequins and making use of creative lighting for window displays - Preparing for promotional events and dismantling displays at the end of promotional periods - Creating special displays to promote a specific product or promotion - Drawing designs and plans by hand or computer - Deciding how to use space and lighting creatively - Creating branded visual merchandising packs to send to each branch of a store - Giving feedback to head office and buying teams - Setting up displays, dressing dummies, and arranging screens, fabric and posters - Hiring, borrowing or making props - Making sure that prices and other necessary details are visible - Coaching sales staff on how goods should be displayed - Taking down old displays

Selling it synopsis The second programme in a two-part series which explores the psychology and science of consumer purchasing. Examines the `tricks of the trade’ of selling to domestic consumers. Retailers and producers spend millions on store design and layout, brand image and salesmanship to persuade people to buy. Case studies range from New York Boutiques to Bluewater in Kent, one of Europe’s largest shopping arcades. Sales techniques such as AIDA (Attention, Interest, Desire, Action) are covered, one expert discusses how to `behave’ when demonstrating a product, and the whole issue of consumer seduction is explored. http://ftvdb.bfi.org.uk/sift/ title/730967?view=synopsis

Shopology documentary 2007

Basic Merchandising Principles

Main points - Retailers WANT to intrigue - glamour and sex appeal - “For love you need money” - there is always a relationship between consumer and a brand, if the customer feels wanted then they will go back and buy. - Amy Astley - Teen Vogue - found the new customer who will always stay with the brand. A child who will wear DKNY will then grow into the Donna Karan adult collection - CCTV - Big Brother; they watch your every move to see where you are going in their store and what you are buying from them/ not buying. They will watch how people are feeling, if you feel discontent, they will want to add some happiness into your life - “Lure the shoppers inside and keep them there” - Some shops also have areas for women’s partners, everyone can be a part of the shopping experience with signs like “Make yourself comfortable, she may be some time.” - If you can sit down and relax, why go home? Cafes are introduced to add to the shopping experience. - Las Vegas is where the extreme shopping experiences happen - marriages and visual displays - AIDA - Attention - Interest - Desire - Affection - Murray Moss - uses a museum type layout - glass barriers so they cannot touch anything - Lush cosmetics - has the look and feel of a market where the products look like food, people want to touch and smell and try the products before they buy. - Advertising is the most important aspect for any store - Every store will have it’s own look - e.g you know when you are in a Lush store as it has the market feel with the writing on the chalkboards

- Image MUST conform to what appeals to their target market - Entice - Inspire - the lifestyle they are endorsing - Identify - the brand identity - Aspire - Invite - Create a buying environment - Maintain Brand loyalty - Symmetrical/ asymmetrical grouping to give a visual impact - Space (some use this more than the display) - Balance - Colour The THREE key elements of a strong display 1. Height 2. Width 3. Depth

triangular pyramid method to achieve good proportion and balance

- Focal points - visual hierachy - Space needs to be created to help customer focus - A window display only has 5-6 seconds to accumulate interest - Colour - attracts attention holds attention conveys information expresses mood 6

The consumer will always want to feel comfortable in a store

Knowing your Brand Identity

Conforming to your market

Window Display - Next have got their brand identity right, they know exactly who their target market is and adhere to them completely. In the Southampton branch they have womenswear and childswear on one side and menswear and home/ lifestyle displays on the other. - It gives the feel of a family being able to walk into the store and find everything they are going to need for any member of said family. - It holds the attention of the consumer, it is very organised and precise and has an open back window display so customers are able to touch the clothes. Instore/ Interior displays - Next grab the customers attention straight away when they come into store. They will sometimes have a sales assistant there to offer promotional offers or just greet them. - They seem to work with table displays a lot, and rather than having things hanging or jumping out at you they will use all the wall they can. Point Of Sale - The POS that Next have is not vast, when their customer reaches the tills they pretty much just leave them to get their purchases and leave. The only things you would normally find there are gift cards/ lip gloss etc. Graphics and Signage - As with everything else, Next chooses to use a simple typeface for their signs that links with their logo, people are able to recognise it easily and the signs are easy to follow. Colour/ lighting/ overall style of composition - Because their interior is so vast and white and plain, they are able to get away with fitting as many clothes into their store as possible without it seeming too chlaustrophobic. - Everything within next is simple, organised and clean cut, something that mother’s/ families would want. It leads the customer to whatever he/ she would want to go to by adhering to their interests and likes. - This is a company (like All Saints) who know their brand identity, but who also want new customers (unlike All Saints) to be interested in their brand too.

“Since facing bankruptcy in 2009 due to the Icelandic banking collapse, AllSaints has dramatically reversed its fortunes. Sales are up 50% to £133m and profits doubled to £24m, all despite, or perhaps because of, AllSaints’ refusal to spend on conventional advertising.” - All Saints, opened since 1994, does something really special with its brand identity and target audience. The people who shop there regularly know what to expect, however if a consumer is trying the brand for the first, sometimes even second time then they will be confused. - As someone who is interested in how stores are branding theirselves, I find All Saints to be somewhat counterproductive. Their layout is chaotic but somehow they do not seem to keep a lot of stock in their stores. They are reaching out to a very specific niche market and it is clear from the moment you look at their window display - “Glamour meets Goth” - The clothes are not the first things you are drawn to, which seems odd for a store to not want to achieve. Instead you are drawn to the headless mannequins and uneccesary old-fashioned sewing machines. - When you do eventually get to the looking at the clothing, it’s a dissapointment (in my own opinion and this bloggers). They appear as worn and distressed as the building they are being shown in. - Another aspect to All Saints alternate high street look (afterall it is just a highstreet brand) is that it has a ram’s head for its symbol. Consumer’s can be put off by this but, like previously stated their market audience will still go back as they know what they expect from the brand. - Larissa Hirst, 21 from Southampton said, “I feel intimidated when I go into All Saints, and it’s not just the store here, it’s all of them. They all have the same condescending and patronising feel to them, so I don’t ever WANT to go in there.” 8

Fashion Buying and Merchandising Management

Advertising, Promotion & Visual Merchandising

Tim Jackson & David Shaw

How stores advertising links to different holidays and seasons - Stores will always want to keep up to date with their customer, holidays and events will mean that the shop needs to adhere to the customer’s wants and interests. - Holiday’s that a store would want to pay attention to would be Valentine’s Day, Christmas, Easter etc. - Some events that shops also try to use are British ones. Things like the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee and Kate and William’s one year anniversary will be some of the main reasons for stores in England to update their displays. - A Visual Merchandiser’s main role is to promote the brand in a way that catches the target markets eye. Therefore if a window display is changing for that specific holiday people will take note and want to look in there. - Next is a store that has taken to promoting Valentine’s Day this year (2012) It is not only promoting the clothing that it sells but also its homeware. The first thing the consumer comes to as they walk into the store is a table filled with red things, symbollic for love and passion and romance. - This is where window displays are at their most creative. Even though Visual Merchandiser’s are restricted in what they are allowed to put in the window (as it is a specific theme) it means they can get creative to try and out-do their competitior’s. - On the other hand, it means shops have to conform to a specific theme, therefore Head Office may have restrictions on what they can display. 10

International Branding - Media and advertising has created global brands. - Names such as Levi’s and Doc Marten have immediate international recognition. - Both these brands rate in the top ten brands of the World. - Branding has become an increasingly important selling feature of fashion garments, and increasingly across Europe there is an interest amongst younger fashion customers to buy branded merchandise. Fashion Retailing - Retail environments are characterised by 12 key factors; 1. Well lit, airy, clean and uncluttered - upmarket atmosphere helps to command higher prices 2. Well stocked but not overstocked - customers able to reach garments 3. Minimal signage giving clear and easy-to-understand information- signs must not dominate the garments 4. Lifestyle display setting - Customers clearly understand what occasion or situation the clothes should be worn in; this also adds value to the product 5. Easy to follow colour and style coordinated display grouping, customers can easily see how clothes coordinate and how they should be worn 6. Service points are logically positioned, with a clear space for customers to make a transaction customer finds it easy to get served, goods paid for and wrapped 7. Colour schemes are soft/ neutral in order to not dominate the style and colour of individual garments 8. Changing rooms are comfortable and more user friendly/ inviting; this aids the selling process 9. Garment rails, racks and shelving are conveniently placed, with easy walkway access - this enables customers to move freely between different departments 10. Hangers individually marked with the garment size - easy size location is important for the customer 11. Minimal window displays, with focus on garments rather than on window dressing - allows customers to focus clearly on the product 12. Departmental and lifestyle display grouping placed logically and geographically adjacent to one another eg; swimwear and underwear

Windows, Store Design and Layout

Merchandising of Fashion Products

‘The Customer Journey’

Doris H. Kincade

Visual Merchandising is the integration of merchandise presentation and display techniques combined to enhance the sale of a company’s merchandise, whether this merchandise is a raw material product, a finished apparel product, or a service provided by the company. At some levels (i.e retail), merchandising is directed primarily to the consumer. At other levels (i.e raw materials producers and product manufacturers) promotions are directed both to their customer at the subsequent levels of the FTAR (i.e trade visual merchandising) and the consumer (i.e retail visual merchandising). Overall, visual merchandising should stimulate customer interest in the merchandise, should increase sales by creating a desire and motivation to buy, and should encourage multiple and add-on sales by facilitating ease of consumer selection through the arrangement and presentation of the retail store itself as well as the store’s merchandise categories.

Window Structures help to motivate people to enter the store - Parallel to pavement: mainly department stores - Corner: to catch people at different angles - Open back: customers are able to look and touch the merchandisa - Angled: more exposure of products to the customer - Arcades: niche/ smaller brands - Islands: in-store centre pieces - Windowless: see-in the store, need to make sure the whole store stays neat and tidy - Circular: creates a greater visual emphasis - Shadow-box: eg, jewellers/ accesories shops - specialist stores - Interactive: computer screen outside to order what you want Planning Store Layout - Store layout: decided by the target audience - Site Selection: high street/ malls - Site and building planning: stockrooms etc - Space allocation & store layouts: links with store format, design/ fixtures etc *Dependant on the store - different stores will have different priorities Different type of floor plans - Straight floor plan - most types of retail stores will use this, makes the most of all the space, most economical - Diagonal floor plan - self service types of retail, good visibility for customers, traffic flows easily - Angular floor plan - high end specialist stores, curves and angles gives it a more expensive look - Geometric floor plan - suitable design for clothing stores, uses racks and fixtures to make it interesting - Mixed floor plan - incorporates all the other floor plans for the most functional floor design

Different areas of retail visual merchandising The combination of merchandise presentation and display activities done in the retail store, with; - Catalogues promotes the sale of - Website merchandise to customers - Popular print - Video media When used as a team, these merchandising components are most effective for creating and maintaining a constant and consistent store image and for ensuring the realization of meeting the planned sales and profit goals. Many stores consider the roles and activities of visual merchandisers as one of the most important components of merchandising. If done effectively it can contribute as much as 30% of the retailer’s total sale volume. VM is a ‘silent seller’ that teaches the consumer ‘how to,’ that trains the ‘fashion eye,’ that convinces the consumer of the value. 12

Stores as an Art space

Other Components for Stores - Visual Merchandiser’s are a vital part of the retail experience, however there are other elements - Part of a retail strategy that aims to get the consumer into their space - A lot of different mediums to use to get their product out there Advertising - Announces; promotions, new collection, celebrity endorsement, special events, brand awareness - Generally this will command most of the retailers budget Apple advertising campaigns are very good at that Classifications of advertising - Promotional; most widely used, goal to promote a particular product/ special offer - easy to monitor - Institutional; brand awareness and enhancer, may relate to a special event e.g. charity event to raise profile of brand - Combination; combination of the above advertisment - Cooperative; sharing the cost of advertising between manufacturer and retailer The Media - different media for different situations e.g. newspaper adverts for clearance sale high fashion collection in glossy magazines direct mail - feel more special as their customer Newspaper - PROS - local audience CONS - bad quality immediate short lifestyle cheaper colour not always used

Concept Stores

Barbie store - highly individual nature of goods and environment - retail spaces adopt the visual language of art/ cultures/ different styles/ eras - customers are encouraged to linger - the experience is more important and creates a bonding with the brand. Dunhill - famous clients include Tom Jones, Jude Law, Daniel Craig, Colin Farrell. Gives an air of sophistication, New York store; epitomises masculinity, very black and white. Prada - “most influential forces in the field, the brand creates a clear relationship between fashion and art.” Focus on the shopping experience, integrating the concept of museum art The Tokyo, Japan - Herzog and DeMeuran (Tate Modern creators) innovators in creating art with culture. Urban Outfitters Evolve to reflect changing needs of the consumer, and rebrand every 6 months. “first to provide a multi-layered customers experience based on the principle that everything is for sale in their concept shops.” - furniture/ gadgets/ music Strong brand with exclusive customer experience Person needs to be identified as a different individual and the store caters to these needs. Unique product range/ top brands created a dynamic image of the brand.

Magazines are more expensive, keep for longer, broad but targeted audience, quality printing Direct Mail are more demographically targeted, gets viewer’s attention, lower contribution cost, junk mail image, slow delivery 14

Other Components for Stores Broadcast Media - Radio/ TV - Expensive and needs to be planned in advance - Live action - Widespread airing and frequent - Localized segmentation - spot commercials - Cost - Lead time - Bypassing commercial (on demand)

Mythology Creatures of the deep

Benefits

Countries Different places to visit all in one place

Disadvantages

Beauty & the Beast Film is being re-released so very current

Candy and Sweets

Initial Window Ideas

Radio - good for promotional events benefits; cheap, lots of areas, widespread, repetitive disadvantages; no visuals, brief message Special Events - draws attention to the retailer - fashion shows; formail/ large scale/ expensive/ lots of organization required - runway shows; in store to feature particular collection, small scale using professional/ unprofessional models - informal modelling; usually worn by employees, more informal - trunk shows; specific collection with designer/ representative present. High end labels New Media - websites, social media, phone apps, digital posters, flash mobs, ambient media, guerilla marketing

Countryside For people who want to get out of the City

Nostalgia

DKNY - live streaming/ chatroom give viewers a preview of the Spring collection

Into the Wild

Animals

Pantomime/ Christmas theme

Vampires Last Twilight film

18th Century fairground Mary Poppins-esque

MARC JACOBS - created online experiences in New York fashion week 2011

Funfair

Childhood Characters

Jungle

Summer Fete

End of the World

Back to the Sixties 16

The Principles of Design Basic Elements Merchandise Props Mannequins Graphics Colour Texture Lighting Shapes Space

The Principles of Design Rhythm

Visual Merchandising is everything the customer sees, both interior and exterior that creates a positive image of the retailer. The merit of any good display/ design. artwork etc is judged by a set of guiding principles. Eliminates mixed messages and strengthen the end visual communication. Will effectively communicate brand values and sell products Merchandising concept, brand image, location and merchandising are all considered alongside chosen retailerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Balance Proportion Dominance Rhythm Harmony These define the way in which the basic elements of visual communication are organised in relation to each other.

Creates continuity and consistency that leads the viewers eye. Helps make the viewers eye follow a particular pattern to lead them around the display. Executed through; repetition, continuous line, progression, radiation and alternation. Radiation - centred piece that is the main piece, radiates from everything around it. Proportion

Balance - same visual weight on either side - symmetrical (formal) - asymmetrical (informal) Creates a sensation of visual stability and equilibrium Visual dominance can be created with bold colours - e.g black on a white background Repetition of shapes - groups of the same objects/ products

The interelationship with one design element to another - leads to another - leads to harmony and unity - aesthetically pleasing and instinctively right (as human beings this would be seen as the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;rightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; thing any store window could do) - Rule of Thirds and the Golden Section is a natural occurance

Dominance - Creating diversity and visual emphasis - Creates a focal point - Breaks monotony - Dominance is created to lead the eye

Rule of Thirds The guideline proposes that an image should be imagined as divided into nine equal parts by two equally-spaced horizontal lines and two equally-spaced vertical lines, and that important compositional elements should be placed along these lines or their intersections.

Visual Emphasis Size Contrast Size Contrast Repetition Colour/ Tonal/ Textural Contrast Directional Contrast Unique placement

Harmony is achieved when all elements of design come together to create a visually satisfying order to our aesthetic senses.

Light&Dark White space 18

Oasis

Hotel Chocolat Window Display analysis

Window Display analysis *Asymmetrical (informal) balance.

*Symmetrical (formal) balance.

*The alarm clock is the focal point, creating dominance.

*The store only uses two main colours- brown and white, creating a sense of opulence, reflecting the brand image.

*The wind up mannequins creates interest, they arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t visible until you take a closer look at the display. *Depth- two different layers. First you see the clocks and then you are drawn into the clothes. *Broad colour palette- all block colours- easy on the eye.

*The brown colour scheme contrasts with the beige floor drawing people in.

*The alarm clocks create radiation, which creates a sense of rhythm and flow throughout the display. *The colour of the clothes contrast with the white of the mannequin offering greater emphasis on the clothes. *Open back display- allowing customers to look beyond the display and into the store. *simple yet effective- brand identity- Oasis is often very simple in its approach to visual merchandising. 20

* The dark boxes in the window are open backed allowing the light from the store to illuminate the product, catching the customers eye and drawing them in. 21

*Block shapes- squares, rectangles- repetition of shapes. *Focal point is the heart- the white space on the brown background draws the customer in. it is repeated on both windows . *One display is open back allowing people to see in to the store, whilst the other is closed.

Colour and Lighting

Colour planning for sales floor - merchandise often unrelated - use colour families to create order and help customers locate the merchandise Colour themes - identity of store/ season Rainbow system - colours placed in a certain way Colour trends

Colour - First thing the customer will notice and one of the most important design tools for any store to have. They want customers to keep coming back. - Used to communicate style, mood and symbolism, trends and fashions. also used to create themes such as reds for Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day and Green for Christmas. Most common classification of colours 1. Hue - the name of the colour itself 2. Value - lightness and darkness of colour 3. Chroma - intensity of colour

Colour evokes the theme and the mood of a display and store Functional use of colours in store design - Zoning certain areas using blocks of colours usually seasonally e.g: yellow for summer - Brand identity and themes - Colour forecasting services can predict trends up to 24 months in advance

Chroma/ Value scale Tints : the range of a pure hue to white Shades: the range from pure hue to black Tones: the range from pure hue to grey

Basic principles 1. People like change 2. Logical and cyclical colour progression 3. Taste will change in an orderly way

Warmth or coolness of a colour Warm hues - normally have a red base Cool hues - normally have a blue base Black and white - added can alter temperature of colour Complementary colours - when added to a pure hue will reverse the temperature Intensity - the saturation/ purity of a colour: lightness/ dullness

Colour Harmonies Monochromatic - uses just one hue: can be understated and create visual elegance: variations of tints/ shades/ texture etc

Psychology of Colour Culture variations exist and different countries will have different opinions and bliefs. Retailers need to understand both its physiological and psychological influences. Colour psychology can be crucial to enticing the customer in - making them want to buy more Five colour families - Red/ Yellow/ Blue/ Green/ Neutral

Analogous - 3 adjoining hues from colour wheel: generally create sophistication, close order and tranquil mood Complementary colours - opposite on the colour wheel to create impact e.g. blue and orange

Split complimentary - a variation of the complimentary colour scheme In addition to the base colour it uses the two colours adjacent to its complement: creates the same strong visual contrast

Hollister

Colour and Lighting

3 colours equal distance from each other on the colour wheel An easy colour scheme to implement as it provides a comfortable amount of visual contrast

Double complimentary - 2x set of colours (4) in opposite positionson the wheel

Shopworls.co.uk - Woman visits the Hollister store with her 16 year old son

Triad - 3 colours in equal distance from each other and opposite on the colour wheel: an easy colour scheme to implement as it provides a comfortable amount of visual contrast

Much to his embarassment, my first comment was how the store broke many so called rules of store design. You can’t see anything from the outside, the store interior is very dark so you walk around aimelessly until you can figure out how the store is segmented, lighting is limited to occasional spot lights on products which means you have to be a contortionist if you want to check the colour or design of the item in your hand, the music is so loud you can’t hear the (verry attractive) cashier, the queue for the changing rooms positively discourages you from trying anything on...

Advancing and Receding Colours - Dark colours make an object look nearer - Allows the designer to change the look of an interior space Warm colours appear closer Cool colours appear further away

Yet two things happened. My son loved it (incidentally so do all his friends) and I ended up buying him a new top... At over 40 I am clearly not target market, but I think I can safely say that this is not the most effective retail environment I have come a across as a place to shop.

Assemblage - A collection of colours that create a design or collection of items - Used to create customer demand for ‘mix & match’ - Creating a ‘buying atmosphere’

However, I think one needs to look at this Hollister store from a different perspective. There is much talk these days about experiential marketing but only a few brands manage to deliver a truly different experience at retail which really connects with their customers.

Colour and light - Light affects how we see colour - Also generates mood - using optical colour and warm shades

Looking at it from an experiential angle, suddenly this store design starts to make a lot of sense. The lack of view from the inside adds mystery, stimulates curiosity. The trade mark, partially clothed male models at the entrance reinforce the idea of youth, health and vitality. The focused internal lighting draws the product towards you in an almost intimate way. The relative darkness somehow gives you more confidence. And the music is great.

Creating mood using light and shadow - Combined to create depth and drama to emphasise specific qualities of merchandise - Main reason is to sell the merchandise

So, if I was to buy something again it is quite likely I would do it from their website, but I have to admit I am very likely to return to the store just for the experience. In fact, with the ever increasing threat of the internet to bricks and mortar retailers, one could argue that Hollister is being very smart by creating a unique and differentiated brand experience at retail, supported by an efficient online offering. 24

Visual Displays

When attempting my own visual displays, I chose to use odd numbers as they are more appealing to the eye. However, I chose to base my own displays around the fact that my chosen store is Accessorize therefore used numerous amounts of jewellery in the pieces without them seeming overcrowded and chaotic.

The things that were wrong with my previous image have been rectified in these images and it now creates a more appealing image and will probably capture the consumers attention more than the previous attempt.

The image below is using just three things. I found it hard to position the objects in a way to fill the screen, but using the string of pearls meant that the whole picture had more content and rhythm. The focal point in this image is the martini glass, filling it with some of the pearl necklace meant that it added even more depth and rhythm to the piece thereby creating a more fluid motion.

I tried to create a more vintage feel in the image on the far right, as this was in keeping with the type of merchandise I am trying to sell. The different colours of the rings also adds an interest for the reader, a mixture of blues and pinks keeps the image young and for Accessorizeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s target market.

There is also a height variation with the image, the glass keeps the image tall and then the pearls moves the eye around and eventually you see the silver bracelet in the bottom right corner. The display on the left of this page creates even more height, movement and depth. With the jewellery on the plates and then at the bottom of the tiers means the whole image flows and the eye is drawn to different aspects.

The vintage tone is also warm as opposed to the contrasting image I have done as well. This image is more strong and would catch the consumers attention straight away. The colour of the cake stand and jewellery and cocktail glass are all similar so it creates a continuity within the piece.

The main focal point is the cake stand and pearls draped around it, It is still able to promote the merchandise, which is the most important thing. This image does seem to be missing something though, this is when I chose to add more jewellery and the cocktail glass. I also did not like the tint of this image, so I decided to change that to a more vintage look.

Using the cocktail glass but tipping it over creates a rhythm within the piece and still using the pearls means their is a type of movement that leads the customers attention through the image. Using basic design principles such as harmony, balance and assymetrical components I was able to produce visually appealing images.

Final Window Idea

“ALL THE FUN OF THE FAIR”

My theme will be eppealing to the ACCESSORIZE customer, with pastel colours and attractive patterns this will draw the person in. Here is some examples of the types of products that will fit in the window display. All the pieces will be very sweet and cute, something that ACCESSORIZE is very good at promoting.

FUNFAIR/ PLAYGROUND/ MARY POPPINS/ TEA/ CAKES/ JUBILEE/ SUMMER/ LAUGHTER/ FRIENDS

Chosen store - Accessorize Chosen theme - All the fun of the Fair

Monsoon was founded in 1973 by Peter Simon following a period of selling shaggy woollen coats on the Portobello Road and hand block printed clothes from Rajasthan to anyone who would buy them.

This year plays host to all things ‘British’ - Cambridge & Oxford Boat Race Queen’s Diamond Jubliee

The original focus was always clothes with an ethnic origin from faraway places, including unusual dresses from Afghanistan and countries en route.

Prince William & Kate’s anniversary

In May 1973, the first Monsoon shop opened in Beauchamp Place, Knightsbridge, London. In 1984, Accessorize evolved as an exciting and a strongly differentiated High Street concept for fashion accessories in an adjoining shop to the Monsoon, Covent Garden Piazza branch.

Wimbledon The fashion will always change for the Seasons therefore shops will be getting ready for summer already. My window will be for the Spring/ Summer 2012 campaign.

In May 1999, Monsoon Home launched its first shop in Kings Road, London. The range incorporates the Monsoon look and philosophy creating an innovative and individual home accessories range.

‘All the Fun of the Fair’ will incorporate the Accessorize cute and sweet design aesthetic whilst adding a new theme of a day out at the fair.

In 2001, Monsoon Baby was launched, as was Accessorize Angels. 2003 Monsoon Boy was launched with Monsoon Men following in the autumn of 2004. Monsoon has expanded rapidly from its London base.

Vintage fashion is also making a comeback, and has been since last year. 2012 sees the return of cupcakes, all things London and cute tearooms.

Today there are over 400 Monsoon and Accessorize stores in the United Kingdom and over 600 throughout the world.

The merchandise that ACCESSORIZE will have this Summer will coincide with this, especially their flagship store on London’s Oxford Street. Therefore, my theme of “All the Fun of the Fair”will fit into the 2012 events and be current and relevant.

http://www.monsoon.co.uk/page/monsoonhistory/

Hippie Retail Magnate in the 1970s

Accessorize focus heavily on fashion based products. If there is a trend on the runway then they will show it within the things that they sell. For example, my theme is “All the fun of the Fair” which is fun and girly, just like the Spring/ Summer 2012 fashion campaigns and shows. Therefore the merchandise they put in their store, and more importantly their window display will convey this. Accessorize is devoted to bringing the most exciting and eclectic products to the high street. With its own in-house design team, Accessorize holds a unique position on the high street with its inspirational, globally sourced, well priced and good quality collection of fashion accessories. Seasonal themes run through the brand, always presenting an individual take on the latest trends. The product range created at Accessorize is extensive and includes every kind of accessory imaginable.

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It was once hard to differentiate Monsoon from Accessorize, however Monsoon seems to have now taken a stumble in the style stake. Whilst Accessorize is growing and building a bigger franchise, Monsoon is getting left behind.

www.monsoon.co.uk

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1972: Peter Simon begins selling ethnic clothing. 1973: First Monsoon retail store opens. 1984: Company launches Accessorize stores. 1986: Second Accessorize store opens. 1992: Company steps up store expansion; opens first international stores. 1998: Company floats shares on the London Stock Exchange. 2000: Company forms joint venture with Charming Shoppes in the United States.

He was then inspired to open a full-fledged retail shop in Beauchamp Place in the Knightsbridge area of London in 1973.

Peter Simon began his retail career as a fishfinger salesman in London’s Portobello Road. Simon discovers the ‘Shoat’ a cross between a sheep and a goat. Working with locals he produces coats made of the shaggy wool and imported them to his London stall.

Simon chose the name of Monsoon for his company, recalling his own birth during a Monsoon in Sri Lanka.

Launched in 1984, Accessorize offered a new product range, featuring home furnishings, accessories, and jewelry, incorporating Monsoon’s ethicinspired design feel.

The company’s flagship retail store is its chain of some 150 and growing Monsoon clothing stores, nearly all of which operate in the United Kingdom in Ireland. Launched in the mid-1980s, Accessorize has overtaken the Monsoon chain in number of store openings, reaching more than 130 stores; many Monsoon stores also feature Accessorize in-store boutiques.

It was when he was travelling in India he decided to turn towards the retail clothing market.

Changing fashion trends led the company to adapt, moving its growing number of stores into a more up-market bracket and evolving its clothing into more sophisticated designs.

The quick turnover of brightly coloured designs encouraged Simon to look for more clothing fashions from the eastern markets.

The company also began designing its own fashions, sticking to Asian-inspired designs and natural materials, while developing its own distinctive styles and colors and incorporating techniques ranging from embroidery and batik to beading. The company caught on with London customers, and Monsoon began opening new stores, at first in London and then later throughout the United Kingdom and Ireland.

The first Accessorize opened in Covent Garden Plaza in London. Its quick success among shoppers led Monsoon to open more Accessorize stores, while adding Accessorize boutiques into some of its Monsoon stores.

- Accessorize established itself as a jewellery brand first and foremost, however through past years they have started to reach out to their customers as a fashion brand. - Mainly swimsuits and underwear keep the brand youthful still as opposed to Monsoon’s target customer. - Today, the brand has grown and have over 600 stores accross the globe. They have a strong presence in Madrid, Milan, Lisbon and Amsterdam. - With the likes of Ana Beatriz Barros, Julia Restoin-Roitfield and Bar Rafaeli as their faces of the brand they are appealing to a wider audience whilst still keeping their prices small and affordable. - The collections have a mediterranean feel to them - frill detailing, floral prints and a warm colour palette are complemented by straw hats, gladiator sandals and gypsy-style costume jewellery.

www.fundinguniverse.com 34

Accessorize spring/ summer 2009

- This was the time of economic turmoil, however this did not disturb Monsoon from expanding. They were to transform Monsoon into a leading retailer in the United Kingdom. - It stepped up its rate of store openings, boosting both Monsoon and Accessorize/ But this is where Accessorize started to find its own. The company opened some 16 Accessorize stores per year starting in 1992. - In the mid 1990s, Monsoon contined to build up its retail empire. It continued to lead the Company’s revenues, as the number of stores reached 84 in the UK. - First international moves - opening company owned stores in the U.S, Iceland, Gibraltar, Australia and a number in Europe. - Accessorize’s growth paralleled the Monsoon chain, reaching 52 stores by mid 1996. The company also had seen steady gains in sales growth, reaching £62.1 million for 1996, and had more than a decade of unbroken growth in its profits. - Monsoon continued expanding both of its retail networks as it prepared a new attempt at a stock listing. By the end of 1997, the company had boosted the Monsoon chain to 127 stores, including 24 foreign stores. - The Accessorize chain jumped to 76 stand-alone stores and another 103 Accessorize boutiques located within most of the Monsoon stores. - Recently, the stores have been affected by the economic downturn. - A first Accessorize store, which opened in Athens, Greece, showed the company’s international promise, outperforming all of the company’s U.K. stores. - Monsoon attempted to bring its successful retail formula to the World Wide Web in 2000. - However, the site’s sales quickly proved a disappointment, as the company recognized that its customers preferred the physical experience of in-store shopping.

Accessorize sfall/ winter 2008

Accessorize as a fashion brand

International Expansion for the 21st Century

Previous Window display

Accessorize Southampton - This window display appears youthful and of the moment. It can continue on for their spring/ summer 2012 campaign. - It works in a symmetrical way, you have two displays and they both have similar elements within them. E.g. the posters, hanging parts and merchandise on the table. - However it is also working on an asymmetrical level which lets the customers eye wander. - The balance is proportionate on both sides which means it can have both formal and informal elements to it.

There is clear repetition within the whole window display, from the hanged objects to the posters everything is similar and repeated but not in a monotonous or boring way. As the products are different it means the customer will stop and stand there for longer. There are no dominant products or features to the display. Your eyes are drawn everywhere. This could be seen as a bad thing as customers may not want to take the time to look at all the elements. Or a good 37 thing as they have a lot of products to look at and will more than likely go into the store.

- Even though the display is rather manic with a lot of products and material on display, it works. Accessorize is all about the cutesie products therefore their customer will expect to see something like this in their windows. - Summer boho theme, which keeps well with what the brand is all about.

Inside Accessorize Accessorize often puts as much merchandise as possible into their stores, but without it seeming chaotic or too much. There is a lot of visually appealing features to their walls, for eample their most recent campaign is all about stripes and the nautical theme. On the wall is horizontal stripes that create more space and make the whole area then seems larger and people will want to look around the store and look at different aspects of the store. For my idea I will obviously be changing the theme to my own “All the Fun of the Fair’ and create a fairground within the store as well as outside. The window display shows a fairground photo shoot but Accessorize also have their photoshoots in the store, as you can see in the image on the far right. They have it on the back of the window and by the point of sale areas where the cashiers are. The whole stores layout is actaully really good for my chosen theme, the different size of the islands means I can put different sized merchandise on them. Different merchandise such as necklaces and bracelets will be draped off different objexts, a lot like my final windw display that is explained urther into this portfolio. Where it says “Accessories Loves” on the wall I will incorporate the lettereing “the Fair” so it will read “Accessorize loves ... the Fair” which will give the theme more depth and it will draw the consumer into the different merchandise. The whole store will be colourful and portray the summer 2012 colours and evoke the fun and frivolous theme.

London Inspiration - Harrods Harrods toystore managed to give me some inspirtion for my window. The childrens toy department boasts different sections, but the part that caught my attention was the fairground. From things set up as merry go rounds and the different stands, all gave me different things to consider for me piece. The colours are the only thing that I did not want to take inspiration from. As I will be making the whole theme more grown up, pastel palette is the key trend and therefore the key colours throughout. I like the fun of the store, the way children can run around and play, this is the feeling I want customers to have as they look at the store.

Accessorize London

As the consumer is older, obviously there will different things to consider such as the main focal point and the models. 40

I wanted to look at the flagship store to try and work out what layout I would be using. The window is on the corner of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busy Oxford Street therefore I know I need to attract the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye as quickly as possible . The informal balance is something that Accessorize so frequesntly does, it means the whole feel of the store is more relaxed and lets the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye wander. the different sizes of the merchandise in the window also makes it more interesting and the whole theme is relevant for their spring collection. All the colours are in keeping with the theme of Accessorize and the banner allows for a rhythm and repetative continuation in the frame. There is no centred piece so there is nothing radiating away from the different merchandise, everything is the focus so there is no real focal point. 41

Mulberry Spring/ Summer 2012 Campaign In reference to my theme, Mulberry’s new campaign for Spring/ Summer 2012 proves that the sweet, candy-like theme is very much in fashion. Therefore ACCESSORIZE will, of course, be taking note of what people are wearing and create their merchandise according to their targetted consumer.

Louis Vuitton Spring/ Summer 2012 Campaign

Sugar/ Sweet/ Candy/ Summer/ Fairground/ Fun/ Stick of Rock/ Love/ Friends/ Beach

“Marc Jacobs has gone a complete 180 with his Spring/Summer 2012 collection for Louis Vuitton. Last season, rubber and leather-clad dominatrixes emerged from the elevators with the theme of fetishes. This time, it’s all about pure enjoyment, gentleness, joie de vivre and love.” - www.ilvoelv.com With regards to my own theme, these fashion shows pay a particularly big role in how ACCESSORIZE is merchandised. The pretty, girly, sweet clothes portrayed on the catwalks and in campaigns will then influence what jewellery they will sell/ want to promote.

Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/ Summer 2012 Show

Meadham Kirchhoff Spring/ Summer 2012 Show Prancing around in baby-doll dresses and laser-cut leather jackets, sequin high-waist hotpants and cardigans covered in cartoon appliques, check gym dresses and broiderie anglaise capes, their models looked like beautiful dollies on the catwalk. The neon lips, cutesy nail transfers, and gold-ruffle or pompom wedges adding to Meadham Kirchhoff ’s off-kilter ode to being a girl! Styled to the max with blonde frothy wigs, handbags in the shape of teddy bears and frilly socks, Meadham Kirchhoff ’s SS12 collection was so theatrical, it could make you ask, would anyone actually buy these pieces? But backstage, looking at their collection up-close, you quickly realise that within their SS12 collection, there are so many beautiful separates that will be lusted after by those lucky enough to be able to afford these couture-like creations. Examining their mini-kilts, empire-line jackets and ostrich feather dresses, it really is astounding just how amazing their craftmanship is. These are clothes which are beautifully made by hand, with so much loving care. With everything from Meadham Kirchhoff ’s choice of bubble-gum shades to the Spice Girls playing over the speakers and their ballet-dancing girls, this show really took the audience back to their childhoods. It was so overwhelming and joyous, their were even a few bittersweet tears shed towards the end. If you haven’t seen this utterley brilliant show for yourself, be sure to watch it here! It demonstrates why Meadham Kirchhoff are the most talked about designers on the London scene right now - not only because of their dedication to their work as seen in their set-up but because of their astounding skill. www.insideout.topshop.com/blog 44

ASOS Inspiration 2009 It is not just the desingers who have used the fairground and pastel colours as inspiration, these are images taken from a fashion shoot for ASOS magazine in December 2009 of Kick Ass and 500 Days of Summer actress Chloe Moretz. “Accompanied by an age-appropriate shoot at a fairground with lots of bubblegum and pink, and not a designer tag in sight.” (taken from the Telegraph) These images are the customers that products at. A shoot like models who they use window displays would window idea.

also apporpriate for Accessorize aim their this with their regular in the backdrop of their work perfectly for my own

From this, I would like youthful and adhere audience of young I like the idea of having ground, the shots here and portrays fun to the

to keep the window to Accessorize’s target women mainly students. a photoshoot at the fair show how well it can work consumer.

The women that are used are normally thin and tall, of youth about them as professionals, they have school’ look to them and with choosing my theme.

in the brands campaign with long hair and a look well. They are not young the ‘just stepped out of high this is part of the reason

I envisage it being a sunny day at the fair, bright blue sky not dissimilar from this shoot and their will be three young girls who have come to just have fun and let their hair down. The colours of their clothes will be pastels as that is the main colour palette throughout the window display and the jewellery and accessories will obviously all be chosen with the theme in mind which I have already shown some on page 29. Everything about this display needs to be fun and youthful and have the sense of traditional values embedded within it. 46

The Manning Family & History

History of the Funfair

It was 1821 when the first Manning to work the fairgrounds was born, samuel. It was after his marriage in 1850 that Samuel first began to work part time in the Showman’s profession, when he and his wife Eliza ran a ‘peep show.’ Eliza was actually mentioned in the press at the time as being the large lady with a large personality.

Fairs have a long history, they are deeply rooted in tradition and have a sense of community and family. The word fair is derived from the atin ‘feria,’ meaning a holiday and at one time the Romans were credited with the introduction of fairs. It is mostly accepted now that they have their origins in the pagan customs of the people who first settled this land, their seasonal gatherings were both for the purposes of trade and festivity, contained within them the essential elements of the fair.

People enjoying the fair

The Romans did a lot to promote fairs by improving trade and communications throughout the country. During the centries following the departure of the Romans, moany other fastivals were incorporated into the calendar of the Christian church.

Hoddesdon Fair was one of the places the Mannings opened each year and Carnival funfairs are still based nearby even now. Samuel and Eliza had a number of children who went into the Fairground business, but the first to own a large ride was George Manning who was born in 1851 and then purchased the first large ride owned by a Manning, a giant roundabout powered by a horse. Almost every fair operating today can be traced back over many centuries, with some annual events still running now originating in The Manning the middle ages as trading fairs where goods of Family all descriptions were bought, sold and bartered.

Funfairs were namely for people to bring their trade and an array of goods however they were also starting to bring in not only merchants but entertainers as well. Jugglers, musicians and tumbler’s were the ones who started it all and are considered to be the ancestor’s of today’s showmen. The Black Death of 1348-49 brought with it a new sort of fair. In order to stem the rise in wages caused by the shortage of workers, Edward III introduced the Statute of Labourers. This compelled all able bodies men to present themselves annually for hire at a stated wage.

Another type of fait was the hiring fair, people seeking employment would attend to negotiate terms with those who had jobs to offer. We still have similar fairs today, in the form of recruitment fairs. There were also fairs which were linked with regional traditions, religious festivals and holidays.

More recently, a funfair is a small to medium sized travelling show primarily composed of stalls and other amusements. Larger fairs such as the permanent fairs of cities and seaside resorts might be called a fairground, although technically this refers to the land where a fair is traditionally held. 48

Fairs have now changed to something more associated with entertainment and amusement. This was a great way for families to come together in the days where there was no television or cinema yet.

Events and Films

Season of Pastels

Films such as Mary Poppins and more recently Water for Elephants have shown just how different funfairs can be. In Mary Poppins (1964) it is the idyllic life with cartoons to play up to the fantasy.

Spring/ Summer 2012

This is a trend report from SheerLuxe website, it shows just how current the colour scheme I have chosen is. As my window is for Summer 2012

Water for Elephants (2011) focuses more on the hard graft that circus workers go through. Both very different but still relevant to the FunFair, the fact that films are still being made about this theme means trends will pick up on it and it will be in shops. As previously discussed, pastels are very much in for Spring/ summer 2012 these films just back this up. Pinstripe of dick Van Dykes suit or the colours of the circus big top and both things that coincide with the trend.

http://www.sheerluxe.com/magazine/online-magazine/february-2012/trend-report/ss12-trend-report/ss12-trend-report-pastels.aspx#a=p11347

Colour Palette for my Window Display

These images of funfairs make my colour palette even more relevant. The colours on the fairground horses and the little jars of sweets labels connote summer frivolity and fun just with their pastel colours. Light pinks, purple, blues and greens all make the theme lighthearted and not at all overbearing. The window will not be simple. Different mechanisms will be used to operate a large ferris wheel filled with Accessorize products. Different parts of the fairground such as the merry go round will all be moving in some way as well. This will draw the eye into the window and the target customer will be expecting to see something unique and different, it is what the brand thrives on. 52

Accesorize normally stick to a set colour palette of pinks and purples, I will incorporate different pastel colours from the spring/ Summer 2012 trend when creating my own window display. Different associations with the seaside and carnivals means that the colour palette can be varied and have a lot going on without it seeming to busy. Accessorize always have chaotic windows and it is actually suited to their brand of ethnic jewellery.

Flat Plan of Accessorizeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Window

Initial Window Plans

London Flagship store is on the corner of busy Oxford Street, at lot of people will walk past it so it is important that the window stands out.

The two main focuses of the windows will be the poster backdrop of the display which is something that Accessorize usually seem to have. This means their customer will be used to seeing something like this, it keeps within the branding of the company. The second focus is a large ferris wheel that will actually be moving with different jewellery going around with it being carried in the little moving carts. This adds a sense of movement to the whole window and will catch the customers eye within those crucial five seconds. The backdrop will be of a photoshoot that Accessorize normally does to go with their whole theme. This is an image I found that help portray the kind of thing I want for my own shoot. The colours will be pretty and girly pastels giving the feeling of summer frivolity and friendship. Something that Accessorize always portrays within their stores.

DOORWAY WINDOW 1

WINDOW 2

The ferris wheel will slowly rotate but the carts will stay upright so the jewellery does not spill out of overflow at all. Not only does this keep the customer interested but it also means they are seeing more merchandise as opposed to showing them just the things at the front of the wheel. 54

Outline of Window Design

Outline of Window Design Taking all of my consideration I am my own window The theme, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;All the is something that is that people would People everywhere this Summer with the Diamond Jubilee, that they will want to their family and

research into now able to design for Accessorize. Fun of the Fairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; very current and want to buy in to. will be celebrating the Olympics and so it is only right spend time with friends.

Around the country events that indicate so relevant not only Spring/ Summer 2012 store I am using. The of the whole window the photoshoot that have on their displays. horse and ferris wheel either window. The the corner of busy both big objects will within the crucial people pass by the

there are cultural why my theme is for the time of but also for the main focal points display will be Accessorize always The second is the that will be on windows are on Oxford Street so create interest five seconds when store.

Coloured Outline of Window Design

Coloured Outline of Window Design These are the sorts of for the window, as I have the palette of choice across Summer. All the features the accessories that the page 29). The side of each hanging from hooks of all adn the whole window will in the pastel colours to give Two of the main things Fun Fair is the Merry Go these two objects will be the window at a substantial Everyone who passes the and look and see all the window’s main aim is to interest. The ferris wheel showing all the different hanging from it. The merry have a mechanism to make different jewellery hanging Fair’ and ‘Roll Up Roll Up’ window to create depth. and show off every single windows. The helter skelter, the jar are all aspects you so they are included and hanging from them as well. British Summer & people 58

colours that would be used said previously pastels are is all the fashion labels this of the window will have store stocks (as shown on window will have bags different summery colours be strewn with buntin, also it the Summer fun fair feel. you think of when at the Round and Ferris wheel, so reconstructed and placed in but not overbearing size. window will want to stop different aspects to it, the entertain and cause an will be slowly rotating accesories that will be go round horse will also it move up and down with from it. “All the Fun of the will be signs stuck to the The lighting will be bright piece of merchandise in the candy floss trees and hoop would expect to see at a fair will have different pieces This window epitomises the will want to go inside. 59