Coffee table book on the decade of 1920s by samiksha.gupta5

GOLDEN AGE OF TWENTIES

ENGLAND & ITALY

GOLDEN AGE OF TWENTIES ENGLAND & ITALY

CONTENTS 1

FO REW O RD EN GL A N D

3 13 17 21 24 27

FA SH I O N JEW EL RY M U SI C A RT H I ST O RI CA L EV EN T S N O RM A N H A RT N EL L (FA SH I O N D ESI GN ER) I T A LY

38 49 52 54 57

FA SH I O N JEW EL RY A RT H I ST O RI CA L EV EN T S EL SA SCH I A PA REL L I (FA SH I O N D ESI GN ER)

73 M O O D BO A RD 75 ST YL E B O A RD 77 SO U RCE B O A RD 80 REFEREN CES

PREFACE T h e d ecad e of 1920 s i s al so r ef er r ed to as th e ?Gol d en A ge T w en ti es? becau se of t h e f i n an ci al bl ast tak i n g af ter W or l d W ar I . Fr en ch sp eaker s al l u d e to th e p er i od as th e ?Cr azy Year s? em p h asi zi n g t h e t i m e?s soci al , i m agi n ati ve, an d soci al d y n am i sm .T h e Roar i n g T w en ti es ach i eved a f ew n ovel an d p r of ou n d ly n ot i ceabl e soci al p atter n s. T h ese p at t er n s, m ad e con cei v abl e by m an aged m on etar y f l ou r i sh i n g, w er e m ost n oti ceabl e i n si gn i f i can t u r ban com m u n i ti es l i ke N ew Yor k , Ch i cago, Par i s, Ber l i n an d L on d on . Jazz bl oom ed an d A r t D eco top p ed . For l ad i es, k n ee- l en gth sk i r t s an d d r esses tu r n ed ou t to be soci al ly w or t h y, as d i d w eaved h ai r w i th a bob cu t. T h e l ad i es w h o sp ear h ead ed t h ese p at t er n s w er e m u ch of th e ti m e al l u d ed to as f l ap p er s.T h e p er i od saw th e h u ge scal e sel ecti on of au t om obi l es, p h on es, m ov i es an d p ow er , p h en om en al m ech an i cal d evel op m en t , qu i cken ed bu y er r equ est an d d esi r es, an d cr i t i cal ch an ges i n w ay of l i f e an d cu l tu r e. T h e m ed i a star ted t o f l ou r i sh an d m oti on p i ctu r e star s. T h e d ecad e ad d i t i on al ly obser ved th e ap p r oach of T V, th ou gh on an excep ti on al ly con st r ai n ed scal e.

FASHION

om en , i n t h e begi n n i n g of 1920 s u sed to w ear h i gh w ai st an d bar r el sh ap ed ou tf i ts.You n g w om en (f l ap p er s) w or e th ei r h em at k n ee l evel w i t h col or f u l st ock i n gs an d gar ter s.T u n i c sty l e top s w er e al so ver y p op u l ar at t h at ti m e. Fl ap p er sty l e w as ver y p op u l ar w h i ch i n cl u d ed of a sh or t bu t sh ap el ess sh i f t d r ess. Cl osed f i t t ed , bel l sh ap ed h at k n ow n as cl och e h at w as t h e m ost p op u l ar am on g w om en at th at ti m e. B obbed h ai r cu t w as ver y m u ch i n sty l e. Coco Ch an n el ?s l i ttl e bl ack d r ess al so cam e i n f ash i on . N ar r ow cu t l ou n ge su i t s w er e w or n by m en at th at t i m e. Col l ar s w er e p oi n t ed an d f aced d ow n w ar d s an d ti es w er e p at t er n ed . W or k i n g cl ass m en u sed to w ear cl oth cap s. Str ai gh t l egged p an t s w er e w or n by m en bu t d u r i n g th e m i d d ecad e w i d e l egged p an ts becam e m or e p op u l ar . M i l i t ar y i n sp i r ed jacket s w er e al so ver y p op u l ar . H ai r w as cu t sh or t f r om t h e si d es an d w er e gen er al ly cen t r al ly p ar t ed or back com bed an d p er f ectly oi l ed .

2 4

BARREL SHAPED DRESS

CLOCHE HAT PEARL NECKLACE GEOMETRI C RI NGS

LI TTLE BLACK DRESS

COLORED STOCKI NGS

MI LI TARY PRI NT J ACKETS FOR MEN

SHAPELESS SHI FT DRESS WI DE LEGGED TROUSER BLAZER

JEWELERY 1920 s jew el er y w as bol d w i th geom etr i c sh ap es an d l i n es. T h e d esi gn s h ad cl ean l i n es d u e to tech n ol ogi cal ad v an ces w h i ch w er e i n sp i r ed by th e B au h au s m ovem en t, w h i ch h ad p h i l osop h y of f or m f ol l ow i n g f u n cti on . Bol d ear r i n gs, r op es of p ear l s, over si zed r i n gs, con tr asti n g col ou r s an d t ex t u r es w er e i n f ash i on i n sp i r ed by th e ar t d eco m ovem en t . Gem ston es w er e h an d cu t an d h an d p ol i sh ed bu t t h e ad v an ces i n tech n ol ogy m ad e i f m ach i n e cu t gem st on es p ossi bl e w i th p er f ect p ol i sh al on g w i th sh ar p l i n es an d ed ges. Rectan gu l ar bagu ette cu t al so becam e ver y p op u l ar .

Fig. 1. Heavy pearl strand necklace with an over sized drop pendant (2012)

Fig. 2. Faux Baroque Pearl, Rhinestone, and Poured Glass Necklace from Chanel, 1920s (2005)

Fig. 3. 1920s Art Deco Costume Jewelry (n.d)

Fig. 4. Rectangle-baguette-cut side-stones-cz-silver-ring (n.d)

MUSIC T h e d ecad e of 1920 s i n En gl an d w as k n ow n as th e ?jazz age?. Jazz m u si c assu r ed cu l tu r al an d m u si cal f r eed om . I n 1926, t h e Roy al A l ber t H al l h osted a Ch ar l est on bal l , an d th e m agazi n e, th e M el od y m aker p r op agat ed A m er i can jazz i n Br i tai n . A n d i n th e l at e 1920 s t h e ad ven t of th e BBC an d th e i n cr eased qu al i t y of gr am op h on e m ad e jazz m or e r esp ectabl e.

ART T h e su r r eal i sm m ovem en t began af ter th e w or l d w ar su r r eal i st d evel op ed v ar i ou s ar t tech n i qu es. Au tom at ed p ai n t i n g an d d r aw i n g, f r ottage, d ecal com an i a ar e t o n am e a f ew. A r t d eco m ovem en t star ted i n 1920 s. A l u m i n i u m , stai n l ess steel , zi g zag, ch ev r on p at t er n s, cu r ves, su n bu r st m oti f s, zebr a sk i n an d sh ar k sk i n et c w er e som e of th e m ater i al s u sed i n t h i s ar t m ovem en t.

CHEVRON PRI NT

SUNBURST MOTI FS

HISTORICAL EVENTS - T h e f i r st r ad i o br oad cast took p l ace by th e Br i ti sh br oad cast i n g com p an y i n 1922. - L on d on ?s f i r st au t om ati c tel ep h on e exch an ge op en s at H ol bor n an d T h am es f l ood s L on d on i n 1928. - I n 1922 W at er l oo Stati on w as bu i l t. - I n 1922 Cou n ty H al l w as bu i l t. - I n 1929 B at t er sea Pow er Stati on w as bu i l t. - I n 192 f i r st t r af f i c l i gh ts w er e con str u cted at Pi ccad i l ly. - I n 1926 sou t h er n ex t en si on of th e N or th er n L i n e to M or d en w as con str u cted .

I N 1922 WATERLOO STATI ON WAS BUI LT

NORM AN HARTNEL L FASHION DESIGNER

or m an H ar t n el l w as a Br i ti sh f ash i on d esi gn er an d w as k n ow n f or t h e w or k s h e m ad e f or th e w om en of th e r oy al f am i ly. H ar tn el l w as f am ou s f or h i s br i d al gow n s, even i n g gow n s f or soci ety m eeti n gs an d w ed d i n gs an d gow n s f or cou r t p r esen tati on s. H e becam e p op u l ar am on gst st ar s as w el l an d d esi gn er costu m es f or t h e l ead i n g w om en of t h at ti m e su ch as El si e Ran d ol p h , Gl ad y s Coop er , an d Jessi e M atth ew s etc. M an y of th e l ead i n g Fr en ch st ar s w er e al so i m p r essed by th e am azi or m an g w or k s of H ar tn el l . H i s d r esses w er e ex t r em ely ex p en si ve bu t h ad i n tr i cate an d l av i sh em br oi d er y on t h em , w h i ch gave a ver y excl u si ve f eel an d m ad e u p f or h i s h i gh p r i ces. H e al so m ad e w ool l en d esi gn s w h i ch w er e n ot even i m agi n ed i n th e L on d on d r ess m ak i n g. H i s f i r st w ed d i n g d r ess w as m ad e of si lver an d gol d n et w h i ch w as sh ow cased i n th e f i n al e of a f ash i on sh ow an d w as sai d t o be t h e ei gh th w on d er of th e w or l d . I t w as al so w or n by t h e br i d e of L ad y W ey m ou th . H i s bal l gow n s w er e m ad e of sat i n an d t u l l e. H e al so d esi gn ed t h e w ed d i n g d r ess of Q u een El i zabeth I I an d Pr i n cess M ar gar et . Q u een ?s cor on ati on d r ess w as d esi gn ed by h i m i n 1953 m ad e ou t of em bl em s of com m on w eal t h an d Gr eat Br i tai n . 1942 on w ar d s, h e sol d r ead y to w ear cl ot h es t h r ou gh h i s stor es. H e d esi gn ed u n i f or m s f or t h e B r i t i sh r oy al ar m y cop s as w el l . H e d i ed i n 1979 bu t h i s l egacy w as con ti n u ed by a Fr en ch cou tu r i er M ar c Boh an i n 1990 s. 27

Fig. 5. Norman Hartnell relaxing on a holiday (1930)

FAMOUS DESI GNS O

OF NORMAN HARTNELL

WORN BY QUEEN ELI ZABETH ON HER WEDDI NG DAY

FASHION n 1920 s w om en becam e f r ee an d i n d ep en d en t. T h ey w er e n ot d ep en d en t on m en an y m or e an d w or ked f or th ei r ow n f i n an ci al st abi l i ty. T h u s th e cl oth i n g f or w om en al so becam e ver y si m p l e an d com f or tabl e i n st ead of ti gh t f i t t ed cl ot h i n g w h i ch cr eated ease f or w or k i n g w om en . D u r i n g t h e 1925, sk i r ts becam e sh or ter an d w er e w or n by w om en w i th f u l l con f i d en ce. Pl eated , k n ee l en gth sk i r t s, sw eat er sets, tw o p i ece sk i r ts an d Gr eek an d Rom an i n sp i r ed gow n s cam e i n f ash i on . Sm al l cl u tch w er e w or n by w om en w i t h a th i n ch ai n over th e sh ou l d er . M u l t i col or ed sh oes w i t h an k l e str ap w er e al so w or n by th e w om en . Cl och e h at s w er e th e sty l e of th i s d ecad e. M ake u p u su al ly con si st ed of bol d r ed l i p s, d ar k ey e sh ad ow f r om bl ack t o gr ey col or s an d a l i ttl e bl u sh on th e ch eek s. H ai r w as bobbed an d f l at, p er f ectly sm ooth .

TWO PI ECE SKI RT SET

ANKLE STRAP SHOES

SLI NG BAG WI TH CHAI N

WI DE LEGGED TROUSER ROMAN GOWNS

PLEATED SKI RT

CLOCHE HAT

RED LI PSTI CK BLACK EYE SHADOW BOB HAI RCUT PEARL NECKLACE GEOMETRI C SHAPES RI NGS & J EWELERY Fig. 6. 1920?s inspired pin-curls: bobbed look for ladies with mid-length hair (n.d)

JEWELERY Jew el r y con si st ed of p ear l s, ston es an d sem i p r eci ou s st on es. D esi gn s h ad p er f ect geom etr i c sh ap es w or n on n eck s an d ar m s.

Fig. 7. Pearl necklace (n.d)

Fig. 8. Sea=Dancer (1913)

ART T h e f i el d of ar t ch an ged i n I taly i n 1920 ?s gr eatly an d M u ssol i n i t h ou gh t t h at ar t w as n ot on ly ed u cati ve, ed u cat i on al an d sop h i sti cated bu t al so a m ean of p r om oti on as i t cou l d be u sed to p r om ote th e f asci st i d eal s i n t er n al ly as w el l as ex ter n al ly. T h er ef or e h e al l ow ed ar t t o f l ou r i sh i n I taly an d su p p or ted th e ar t w or k s. T h e ar t at t h i s t i m e w as su p p osed to be th e ?ar t of m asses? so t h at i t cou l d i n f l u en ce as m an y p eop l e as p ossi bl e. T h e m ajor t w o ar t m ovem en ts of th i s ti m e w er e th e f u t u r i st m ovem en t an d th e n eo cl assi cal m ovem en t w h i ch w as i n sp i r ed f r om th e ar t of an ci en t Rom e.

HISTORICAL EVENTS - I n 1922 Fasci st l ead er M u ssol i n i f or m s h i s ow n gover n m en t af t er t h r ee y ear s of p ol i ti cal an d econ om i c u n r est. - I n 1926 Su p p r essi on of op p osi ti on p ar ti es takes p l ace. - I n 1929 - L at er an T r eaty cr eates state of Vati can Ci ty.

STATE OF VATI CAN CI TY WAS CREATED I N 1929

EL SA SCHI APAREL L I FASHION DESIGNER For El sa Sch i ap ar el l i d esi gn i n g w as an ar t r ath er th an a p r of essi on . Sh e w as bor n i n to a h i gh r an k i n g I tal i an f am i ly ; h er cr eati v i t y w as i n f l u en ced by th e v i su al s of r i ch p eop l e an d cu l tu r e. H er cl ot h es w er e con si d er ed cr eati ve, i n ven ti ve, i n d i v i d u al i st i c an d com f or tabl e. Sp or tsw ear , beach w ear , m at ch i n g bags, sh oes an d u n i qu e f abr i cs l i ke u p h ol ster y an d t er r y cl oth w er e t h e sp eci al ch ar acter i sti cs of h er w or k . Sh e w as t h e f i r st cou t u r i er to u se col ou r ed zi p p er s on beach w ear an d sp or t sw ear i n 1930 s an d i n 1935 u sed i t on even i n g d r esses as w el l . Sh e col l abor ated w i th v ar i ou s f abr i c h ou ses to m ake u n i qu e p r i n ts. Sh e m ad e gl ass- l i ke tu n i cs, f r om a m ater i al cal l ed Rod h op h an e. Sch i ap ar el l i w as k n ow n f or su ch f abr i cs as an t h r aci te, coal - l i ke r ay on ; tr ee bar k , a m atte cr ĂŞp e cr i n k l ed i n d eep f ol d s to l ook l i ke bar k ; an d f abr i cs p r i n ted w i th n ew sp r i n t. Sh e col l abor at ed w i t h d esi gn er s su ch as Ch r i sti an BĂŠr ar d , Jean Cocteau , an d Salv ad or D al i . H er col l abor ati on s l ed to u n i qu e an d i n d i v i d u al d esi gn s as th e l am b- cu tl et h at, br ai n h at, th e sh oe h at , an d t h e su i t w i th p ockets etc. Sh e al so m ad e over si zed bu t t on s i n th e sh ap e of p ean u ts an d bu m bl ebees. H er cl oth es w er e basi cal ly si m p l e an d com f or tabl e an d ver y easy to w ear bu t w er e based on a var i ety of th em es su ch as th e m i l i tar y, zod i ac, ci r cu s etc an d stood ou t. Sh e st u d i ed T u n i si an m eth od s of sew i n g, d r ap i n g an d i n tr od u ced A r ab br eech es, em br oi d er ed sh i r ts, an d w r ap p ed t u r ban s t o Par i s f ash i on , w ed gi es ? a t w o- i n ch - sol ed sh oe t h at w as a tr en d th r ou gh ou t th e 20 th cen t u r y an d i s a tr en d even tod ay. 57

Fig. 9. Elsa Schiaparelli (1935)

ELSA SCHI APARELLI 'S FAMOUS DESI GNS

SHOE HAT

LOBSTER HAT

WRAPPED TURBAN

ZODI AC PRI NT J ACKETS

LARGE BUTTONS ON BLAZERS TENNI S COSTUME

TWO PI ECE SWI MSUI T

Fig. 10. Elsa Schiaparelli design (n.d)

LOBSTER PATCH ON CLOTHES

Fig. 11. Elsa's coat "circus" collection (1938)

CI RCUS PRI NTS

PEARLS

BOLD M AKEUP

FLAPPER STYLE

CLO

JAZZ AGE

FUTURIST M OVEM E

OB HAIRCUT

LITTLE BLACK DRESS

OCHE HAT

ENT

MOOD BOARD 1920s ENGLAND AND I TALY 74

STYLE

Boar ds

SOURCE

E BOARD

REFERENCES Figure 1. (2012) Heavy pearl strand necklace with an oversized drop pendant [Photohraph] At: https://blog.luxemi.com/2012/03/07/1920s-jewelry-trend-great-gatsby-with-an-indian-twist/ (Accessed on 20. 11. 16)

Figure 2. J. Miller (2005) Faux Baroque Pearl, Rhinestone, and Poured Glass Necklace from Chanel, 1920s [Photograph] At: http://www.milkywayjewels.com/chanel_jewelry.html (Accessed on 20. 11. 16)

Figure 3. (n.d) 1920s Art Deco Costume Jewelry [Photograph] At: http://dallasvintageshop.com/art-deco-costume-jewelry-art-deco-costume-necklaces-1920s-costumejewelry-1920s-art-deco-costume-jewelry/ (Accessed on 19. 11. 16)

Figure 4. (n.d) Rectangle-baguette-cut side-stones-cz-silver-ring [Photograph] At: http://www.bobbyschandra.com/products/rectangle-baguette-cut-side-stones-cz-silver-ring (Accessed on 20. 11. 16)

Figure. 5. (1930) Norman Hartnell relaxing on a holiday [Photograph} At: http://www.normanhartnell.com/welcome/ (Accessed on 5. 11. 16)

Figure. 5. (n.d) 1920?s inspired pin-curls: bobbed look for ladies with mid-length hair [Photograph] At: https://in.pinterest.com/pin/450641506434859323/ (Accssed on 20. 11. 16)

Figure. 7. (n.d) Pearl necklace [Photograph] At: https://in.pinterest.com/pin/286893438732125514/ (Accessed on 10. 11. 16)

Figure. 8. Severini. Gino (1913) Sea=Dancer [Photograph] At: http://www.designishistory.com/1850/futurism/ (Accessed on 15. 11. 16)

Figure. 9. (1935) Elsa Schiaparelli [Photograph] At: https://www.theguardian.com/books/2014/oct/26/elsa-schiaparelli-biography-review-dali-chanel (Accessed on 20. 11. 16)

Figure. 10. (n.d) Elsa Schiaparelli design [Photograph] At: https://in.pinterest.com/amandainoue/elsa-schiaparelli-circus-collection-surrealismo-ro/ (Accessed on 20. 11. 16)

Figure. 11. (1938) Elsa's coat "circus" collection [Photograph] At: http://bombshellbettys.blogspot.in/2012/05/elsa-schiaparelli-one-of-my-all-time.html (Accessed on 21. 11. 16)