Declaration
My idea came out after the most recent facts of terrosism in the world, from the start of January 2015 in Charlie Hebdo’s headquartes in PARIS, to LIBYA for Hotel shooting, to TUNISIA Museum shooting, to YEMEN for Mosque bombing 130 dead, to TUNISIA for Beach resort shooting, to CAIRO for the Embassy explosion, to TURKEY for the Peace rally bombing, to EGYPT where the Russian plane causes 224 dead people, to November 13th in Paris at the Bataclan and nearby, 138 victims, to the San Bernandino shooting and so on and so on. Don’t you think it’s enought? I think this is an argument of which we shouldn’t understimate the social consequences. Going deep into this topic we can deduce the ISIS intentions. Foundamentalists want muslism to be hated and splitted from the communities all over the world in order to approch them and convince them that foundamentalism is the way for a good world, creating civil war that will disrupt many populations and make the ISIS win the war, it isn’t a weapons war anymore, now we front the first tribe wars, not saints war, just money and tribes.
Attempts I was angry and impotent and I couldn’t do anything to vent what I feel, in that moment I thought of how many people felt the same, how many people want to vent those feelings, but they had no way to do it. And a sure point is that the way to vent those feelings is not in a violent way, but it must be a clever, smart and intelligent act. Why do heroes wear a mask? Because they aren’t people, they become symbols. I think that someone even in the world of fashion must do something to join people under a flag, the flag of love to others. Have no fear, man, have no fear of terrosists, have no fear of bombs, have no fear of all that shit and show your disappointment in a way or another until the moment of your governant decide to shoot them down. Come down to the squares, bringing symbols to demostrate that you have no fear of them. With a social calibrate answer, because everybody must know your side.
Index declaration of attempts biography timeline vision and mission values design elements product range menswear collections
fw fw fw
2013 2014 2015
2014 2015 2016
womenswear
fw fw fw
2013 2014 2015
collections
2014 2015 2016
COLLABORATIONS
christopher raeburn x barbour rapha and raeburn moncler R : future heritage remade in switzerland per victorinox
stockists list actual competitors potential competitors line plans of competitors swot analysis positioning define goals strategies opportunities exploiting target profiling merchandising idea merchandise development
product sheets fabrics sheets trim sheets
buying
plan
conclusions
Christopher Ræburn is a British fashion designer with a unique and innovative approach to creating menswear, womenswear and accessories collections. A graduate of London’s prestigious Royal College of Art, Christopher became known for his re-appropriation of military fabrics and in particular for iconic outerwear created from de-commissioned parachutes. The ‘re-made’ ethos still guides and influences every aspect of the Christopher Ræburn design and development process; a Ræburn product is defined by distinctive aesthetic, meticulous detail, considered functionality and sustainable intelligence. Christopher’s pioneering work has brought sustainable design to a mainstream fashion audience and presents a new definition of luxury with integrity. The brand currently has over sixty stockists worldwide and has received an amazing array of media coverage nationally and internationally, reflecting an unusually balanced combination of high concept and commercial awareness. Ræburn’s AW10 collection propelled the brand to new heights: US Vogue featured the Inuit Coat in a feature on sustainable fashion, informing all to “remember the four R’s: reduce, reuse, recycle and Ræburn”
Biography
Timeline
2010 2011 2012
.Awarded NeWgeN sponsorship . ’Digital rainbow’ collection exhibited at the design museum as part of ‘Sustainable Futures’ . Becomes the first designer to win NeWgeN mens and womenswear ina single season . Victorinox collaboration ‘remade in Switzerland’ shown on schedule during New york Fashion Week . First independent presentation during London Fashion Week at aldwych tube . Moncler r collaboration launches . AW12 FREEZE womenswear collection debuts with stand alone presentation at London Fashion Week . Introduction of accessories collection . AW12 SCORCH menswear collection sold in parisian store Colette and a further 20 stores worldwide
Timeline
2013
2014
. Christopher ræburn announced as artistic director of Victorinox Fashion . AW13 OPTICS womenswear shown at London Fashion Week . AW13 SIGNAL menswear shown at ‘London Collections: Men’s . Christopher Ræburn × Fred Perry collaboration launches . Ræburn × Rapha collaboration launches . Partners with Woolmark to develop innovative Cool Wool garments . Christopher Ræburn wins ‘designer Business of the year’ at the UKFT awards . AW14 POLARIS menswear is shown at London Collection: Mens . Christopher ræburn teams up with Transport for London to promote #Londonmenswear . Announcement of Christopher raeburn × Barbour collaboration for AW14 . Wins ‘Menswear Brand’ award at the UK Fashion and Textile awards
Vision Bring sustaiNable fashion design to the mainstream insider audience and present a new definition of luxury with integrity.
ADopting military fabrics and developing new wayS to remAKe garments with innovative design using an eco-tech mindset Mission
RE
new life to dead fabrics, the chance of MADEGive resurrection of forgotten stocks representing a specific heritage.
new experimentExplore volumes and will.
ways to connect shapes, materials to the human
military fabrics stocks and get inspiration historyTaking from war situations or historical challanges for the mankind.
step is, to give comfort functionalityFirst and utility to products, usage is what matters.
earth, and for humans. survivalFor Survival is the topic of each of our collections, we think it is the bridge from the past to the future.
word for us means trying to find a technologyThis different and new root to make strong
Values
new developing processes.
Design Elements
since 2010, from a line of 15 pieces menswearGrowth now we have double the quantity, 30, specialized on coats and outerwear, with a part ready to wear, but just sweaters or trousers.
the first interest in the 2010, now womenswearWas is the second. Even here, we are specialized in outerwear but we pay attention to jumpers, top, and skirts as well.
without, now is a sector with accessoriesStarted great appeal for us, making clutches, bags, travel bags and backpacks.For women, and men.
Products
Menswear Collections AW13 SIGNAL Drawing inspiration from the monolitic and mysterious Maunsell Sea Forts. WWII naval defenses that rise imposingly from the waves off the south coast of England. SIGNAL features vivid naval colours starkly contrasted with the rough and eroded textures that typify the ageing forts. Meticulous craftsmanship can be seen in the stand-out outerwear pieces , designed to endure the harsh and unforgiving conditions experienced by those who manned Maunsell through six years of war.
AW14 polaris Taking inspiration from Icelandic photographer Ragnar Axellson’s iconic exhibition ‘Last Days Of The Arctic’, POLARIS references the disappearing landscape, community and crafts of the far north and it’s people. The collection sees the launch of luxury knitwear manufactured in England, as well as some of the most iconic Remade pieces to date. The collection also features a number of more tailored pieces completing a beautifully rounded expression of the Christopher Ræburn style.
AW15 raft Draws inspiration from survival, endurance and immersion, with the aptly named collection. The concept emerged through an exploration of the lives of a group of men adrift on the open ocean, endeavouring to survive the cruel hardships and formidable conditions aboard a life raft. Style and purpose remain at the forefront of this season’s offering but are carefully balanced with a playful exploration.
Keeping with the life raft as inspiration, latex rubber is used to create unique inflatable outerwear; a new puffer jacket and gilet in bold reds and blues inject entertaining and unusual silhouettes into the collection. RÌburn’s ongoing interest in and commitment to quintessentially British textiles is evident in Raft, showcased through a range of garments produced using Bonded Cotton and Hainsworth wools. Prints continue to play a pivotal role in the aesthetic.
Womenswear Collections AW13 OPTICS Represents an experimentation with colour and fabric, provenance and function, resulting in a practical but feminine collection that delights with unexpected textures and contrasts. In keeping with AW13 menswear the collection draws inspiration from the monolithic and mysterious Maunsell Sea Forts.
AW13 AURORA ‘We sail across a strip of pack ice 100 to 150 miles wide, which takes from one to two weeks. Polar bears, seals, musk oxen and foxes are there. The nearest settlement is Scoresby Sound and ahead of us the great icebergs and fields stretch’. — Louise Boyd (Arctic explorer)
The styles and silhouettes are feminine and flattering, whilst referencing the stoicism and bravery of the first female polar explorers; Aurora offers the perfect palette and preparation for winter. Luxury British made knitwear features for the first time; Merino sweaters and jumper dresses bear the seasonal polar bear mascot. An exceptional quality faux-fur offers a textural contrast to waxed cottons and technical fabrics, whilst the seasonal print, a wonderfully detailed glacial landscape, is found in a variety of fabrications, including sustainably sourced leather and waterproof wool.
AW15 immerse The AW15 womenswear collection Immerse is a bold exploration of the colours, textures and experiences associated with a life spent at sea. Perhaps the most diverse collection to date, Immerse shows once again RÌburn’s ability to combine creative flare with function and attention to detail. The careful balance between concept and wearability is apparent this season in everything from the iconic outerwear to dresses, separates and accessories.
Christopher Raeburn X Barbour We have teamed up with British Heritage brand Barbour to create a capsule collection of limited edition womenswear pieces. Inspired by Barbour’s extensive archive and military history but with Christopher Raeburn’s unique handwriting, the collection captures the spirit and ethos of both brands. The collection, which now is available to purchase at Fenwick of Bond Street, features outerwear, knitwear, shirts and dresses in addition to an assortment of accessories including hats, gloves, scarves and bags. The collection takes it’s inspiration from the story of the Ursula Jacket from the Barbour archive: “In 1937, Captain George Phillips took command of the Ursula, one of the first of the new U-class submarines. One of his Lieutenant’s was a keen motorcyclist who wore a one piece oversuit made by Barbour. Captain Phillips instructed him to wear the suit while he aimed a fire hose on him. Despite the force of the water, the navigating officer remained dry. Impressed by the protection the suit offered, Captain Phillips visited Barbour and persuaded them to cut the suit in two to make a jacket and trousers. The result was the ‘Ursula Suit’ which became standard issue for all in the Submarine service.“ Christopher added: “Working with Barbour and particularly on womenswear has been a real honour. It’s a brand with so much heritage that appealed to me due to its inherent function but I’m proud of the fun, feminine collection that we’ve been able to achieve through the collaboration.”
Rapha & Raeburn The Rapha & RĂŚburn capsule for Autumn Winter 13 is a continuation of the collaboration between Graeme and Christopher Raeburn. Having both followed a path into clothing design, the two brothers carved their individual signatures: Graeme designing for Rapha and Christopher with his eponymous label. The latter has developed a reputation for using functional fabrics and ethical methods and, like his older brother, works to make products with longevity and attention to detail. We paid him a visit at his studio in east London.
Moncler R : Future Heritage This season Moncler has chosen Christopher Raeburn to create their new ‘MonclerR’ menswear collection. Young but extremely talented, the British designer had worked as a freelance pattern cutter before he established his own studio and, later on, launched his label by presenting a capsule collection of reversible garments in London, after which he has been immediately included in ‘100 New Designers’ by the fashion journalist Hywel Davies. He highly regards to shapes and details so that his garments have become renowned for their refined design and for being scrupulously crafted. Prized for being a pioneer in creating products that are recycled and ethically aware, Raeburn has also been fascinated by military aesthetic and the outdoors, which perfectly fuses with Moncler’s identity as well as its know-how in creating cold-weather outdoor clothes and has influenced their collaboration too. The resulting twenty pieces signed by the Raeburn consist of coats, pants and accessories that mix the typical Moncler’s silhouette with the functionality of military fabrics and cutting-edge materials as technical wools and closed-knit cotton. The colours vary from olive green and black on the exterior to the sky blue on the interior, which reveals Raeburn’s characteristic humorous touch as the iconic Duck, the symbol of the brand, printed onto the inside pockets of the jackets does too.
Remade in Switzerland :
THE
SIGN
Christopher Ræburn is a young UK designer known for his pioneering work creating ethically aware and innovative men’s and womenswear collections from re-appropriated military fabrics. An MA graduate of the prestigious Royal College of Art in 2006, Ræburn launched in 2008 his label utilising decommissioned military stocks of uniform and parachute fabrics to create functional, intelligent, and meticulously crafted garments. Ræburn’s namesake designs are proudly REMADE IN ENGLAND in his small East London production facility.
VISIT SWITZERLAND Ræburn’s intellectual aesthetics, exceptional quality and fastidious attention to detail caught the eye of Victorinox, creators of the “Original Swiss Army Knife”. Brand commissioned him to create a REMADE IN SWITZERLAND capsule collection for Autumn / Winter 2011. Ræburn first visited the Victorinox factory in Ibach, Switzerland. He also explored several ‘Liq Stores’, as local military surplus stores are known, to source fabrics and inspiration for the capsule collection.
Victorinox by Raeburn
RESEARCH AND DECOSTRUCTION SWISS
LAB
Ræburn returned to his London studio armed with samples of the surplus stock and began the process of deconstruction. By taking apart the existing garments, he found inspiration and ideas to create new ones, re-imagining unexpected uses for the old and challenging the concept of what is considered new. A rare find was a box of horseshoe nails that became the symbol of the proje ct for Ræburn. He challenged Victorinox to recast that nail into scales for an Original Swiss Army Knife to complement the project. The nail also inspired a print used for linings and other graphic treatments.
Ræburn returned to his London studio armed with samples of the surplus stock and began the process of deconstruction. By taking apart the existing garments, he found inspiration and ideas to create new ones, re-imagining unexpected uses for the old and challenging the concept of what is considered new. A rare find was a box of horseshoe nails that became the symbol of the project for Ræburn. He challenged Victorinox to recast that nail into scales for an Original Swiss Army Knife to complement the project. The nail also inspired a print used for linings and other graphic t reatments.
Womenswear Stockist List AUSTRIA MAGAZZIN Citizens Alley 9 Graz, 8010 +43 316 8291240 www.magazzin.at BELGIUM Smets 650-652 Chausee de louvaia Brussels, B-1030 +32 (0)2 325 12 30 www.smets.lu CANADA Neighbour 45 Powell Street Vancover BC, VGA 1E9 +1 (778) 379 1409 www.shopneighbour.com
KOREA Boon The Shop Shinsegae Gangnam Department Store Banpo-Dong, Seocho-Gu Seoul www.boontheshop.co.kr great britain MATCHES 87 Marylebone High Street Marylebone Village London, W1u 4Qu +44 (0)207 487 5400 www.matchesfashion.com OUR DAILY EDIT 23 Ship Street Brighton, Bn1 1Ad www.ourdailyedit.com
CHINA I.T. LTD 1 Hysan Avenue Causeway Bay Hong Kong
REVE EN VERT Online only www.revenvert.com SS15 Womenswear Stockists
2F Seasons Place, Xicheng District Beijing www.ithk.com
USA IKRAM 15 East Huron Street Chicago, Illinois, 60611 +1 312 587 1000 www.ikram.com
LIGER 1/F No.11 Pak Sha Road Causeway Bay Hong Kong +85 23 483 3948 www.ligerstore.com NEW YAOHAN Avenida Comercial de Macau Macau +85 32 872 5338 www.newyaohan.com DENMARK STORM Store Regnegade 1 København, 1110 +45 33 93 00 14 www.stormfashion.dk FRANCE Gago 24 Rue Fabrot Aix-en-provence,13100 +33 442 26 08 52 www.gago.fr GERMANY THE STORE The Store, Soho House Berlin Torstrasse 1 Berlin, 10119 www.sohohouseberlin.com
Menswear Stockist List CANADA NEIGHBOUR 12 Water Street Vancouver, Bc V6b 1A5 +1 604 558 2555 www.shopneighbour.com CHINA Galleries Lafayette Avenida comercial de Macau Macau +85 32 872 5338 www.newyaohan.com DENMARK Storm Store Regnegade 1 Copenhagen, 1110 +45 33930014 www.stormfashion.dk FRANCE COLETTE 213 Rue Saint-Honoré Paris, 75001 +33 15 535 3390 www.colette.fr MR SAS 8, Rue Charlot Paris, 75003
WOK Viale Col di Lana 5A Milano, 20136 +39 02 8982 9700 www.webshop.wok-store.com RINASCENTE Via Washington, 70 Milano, 20146 www.rinascente.it JAPAN ISETAN 3-14-1, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-Ku Tokyo, 160-0022 +81 03 3352 1111 www.isetan.co.jp LUI’S 2-8, 2-Chome, Kyutaromachi Chuo-Ku Osaka, 540-8660 www.luis-net.jp Opening Ceremony Japan Omotesando Flagship Store 6-7-1-B Jingumae, Shibuya-ku Tokyo +03 5466 6350
Shibuya Parco Part1 3F 15-1 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku L’eclaireur Tokyo 29 Bis, Rue des Francs Bourgeois +03 3461 2800 Paris, 75004 www.openingceremonyjapan. +33 1 44 78 81 80 com www.leclaireur.com KOREA GERMANY HANWHA The Store 515 Apgujeong-Dong, The Store, Soho House Gangnam-Gu Torstrasse 1 Seoul Berlin, 10119 +82 2 3449 4114 +49 30 4050440 www.hanwhagalleria.co.kr www.sohohouseberlin.com NETHERLANDS HONG KONG CONCRETE Hypebeast Papestraat 17 Online Only Den Haag, 2513 Av www.hypebeast.com +31 70 737 0736 The Swank Shop B51-54 The Landmark, Central Hong Kong +85 22 810 0769 www.swank.com.hk ITALY THE CORNER Online only www.thecorner.com RAIL Via San Martino della Battaglia Brescia, 25121 +39 03 042 531 www.railso.com
CONCRETE Spuistraat 250 Amsterdam, 1012 VW +31 20 625 2225 PHILIPPINES HOMME ET FEMME Shaw Boulevard 3 Shangri-La Plaza Manila +63 2 633 7009 RUSSIA AU PONT ROUGE 75, Moika Emb. St. Petersburg, 190000 www.aupontrouge.ru
SAUDI ARABIA LE GREY Alolaya, Tahylah street Al degaither centre Riyadh www.legray.net SWEDEN Cali Roots Regeringsg 75-77 Stockholm 111 39 +46 8 21 06 08 www.caliroots.com SWITZERLAND No 2 Brotgasse 3 Zurich, 8008 +41 433 43 91 40 www.n2-shop.com TAIWAN One Fifteen No. 92, Sec. 1, Da’an Road Da’an District Taipei City, Taiwan +886 (0)2 8773 0115 TURKEY Shopigo Harbiye Mh. Mim Kemal Öke Cd N°6 Sisli, Istanbul +90 212 325 3595 www.shopigo.com UK HARRODS 87-135 Brompton Road London, SW1X 7XL +44 (0)207 730 1234 www.harrods.com LIBERTY 210-220 Regent Street London, W1B 5AH +44 (0)207 734 1234 www.liberty.co.uk OUR DAILY EDIT 23 Ship Street Brighton, BN1 1AD +44 (0)1273 774 500 www.ourdailyedit.com OKI-NI Online only +44 (0)207 608 9186 www.oki-ni.com MR. PORTER Online only +0800 044 5705 www.mrporter.com
MACHINE-A 13 Brewer Street London, W1F 0RH +44 (0)207 734 4334 www.machine-a.com MATCHES 87 Marylebone High Street Marylebone Village London London, W1U 4QU +44 (0)207 487 5400 www.matchesfashion.com NOWHERE 64 Aungier Street Dublin 2 www.anowhereman.com USA ALAN BILZERIAN 34 Newbury Street Boston, MA02116 www.alanbilzerian.com BARNEY’S 660 Madison Avenue New York, 10017 +1 212 826 8900 www.barneys.com EAST DANE Online only +1 855 553 3263 www.eastdane.com H LORENZO 8646 W Sunset Blvd West Hollywood, California +1 310 652 7039 www.hlorenzo.com
Actual ACRONYM
There’s no denying the visionary approach to technical outerwear design by Errolson Hugh of Acronym. In a testament to this statement, Slam Jam dig into the vaults to offer a look back at the ACRONYM FIRST EDITION KIT which was originally released in 2001 to the tune of 120 packages. The complete set contains some of Acronym’s earliest jacket and bags alongside some miscellaneous items such as CDs and manuals. Fast forward to 2009, little has changed with ACRONYM still among the premier players in technical apparel.
FINAL
HOME
Nylon coat came about from me pondering this question. Its concept is “a cloth which can be adapted according to need”. For example, to protect against the cold, you can put newspapers in the pockets, or if you equip it with survival rations and a medical kit, it becomes a valuable cloth when taking refuge. The name “FINAL HOME” was first given to this particular garment, and then it became their brand name - it equates to the idea of it being the “ultimate shelter”. The coat comes in three basic colors: “orange” to remind of one’s existence; “khaki” to blend in with the forest and “black” to assimilate in the city. Directions for use are written on the bag in which the coat comes. This coat is recyclable. After enjoying it as a fashion item, please wash it thoroughly and bring it to one of our outlets. We will donate it to organizations such as NGO for the benefit of refugees or disaster victims. For further details, please read the message card enclosed in the bag. FINAL HOME welcomes suggestions from customers and ideas for new projects.
Competitors OFF-
WHITE
OFF-WHITE c/o VIRGIL ABLOH is a fashion label rooted in current culture at a taste-level particular to now. With a specific opinion and not necessarily same with vision seasonal men’s and women’s collections are offered. There is a product offering of the brand also in the realm of furniture and ready made goods to further reinforce an approach to lifestyle. All products are based in a concept that adapts from season to season. Manufacturing is based in Milan with a core value of the brand to be made from the best available and particular opinion regarding fabric, fit and fabrication. The result is to be a young brand embracing the now in a sophisticated manner.
DEMOBAZA
The combination between Bulgarian post-socialist spirit and the extraordinary futuristic dreams, together with intentional unwariness to details, are the basis of Demobaza’s philosophy, which has generated the concept of deconstructive uniform. Demobaza is a young fashion brand created in 2008 by Demo and Tono its designers and main forces. The company started with an online store mainly selling unique creations which later evolved into a limited edition series. In 2010 Demobaza opened its first showroom/store in Sofia. About the style: Minimal and futuristic look expressed by deconstructive sporty shapes. Uniform built of trashy and bad made looking elements. Demobaza is based in Sofia, Bulgaria.
RICK
OWENS
With over 30 years experience in the industry, Rick Owens is renowned for breaking the rules. His unconventional training paved the way for an inherently creative brand, pushing the boundaries of conceptual clothing. Understated and sophisticated, the designer brings a touch of American allure to the fashion conscious wardrobe with a wholesome street-style influence that is rooted in everyday reality.
Competitors : potential STONE
ISLAND
A culture of research, experimentation, function and use are the matrixes that have always defined Stone Island: the sportswear brand established in 1982, designed to become a symbol of extreme research on fibres and textiles, applied to an innovative design. Season after season, it is through the study of form and the “manipulation” of the matter that Stone Island has found its own language with the aim of establishing new boundaries in the world of garment making. The study of uniforms and of work wear, its evolution according to new requirements of use, has become Stone Island’s observation post for defining a project in which the clothing item’s function is never just aesthetic. An ongoing investigation, thorough and without frontiers, on the processing and ennobling of fibres and textiles, leading to discover materials.
patagonia
Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis. The our reason for being is grew out of a small company that made tools for climbers. Alpinism remains at the heart of a worldwide business that still makes clothes for climbing as well as for skiing, snowboarding, surfing, fly and fishing, paddling and trail running. These are all silent sports. Our values reflect those of a business started by a band of climbers and surfers, and the minimalist style they promoted. The approach we take towards product design demonstrates a bias for simplicity and utility. For us at Patagonia, a love of wild and beautiful places demands participation in the fight to save them, and to help reverse the steep decline in the overall environmental health of our planet.
Competitors : potential cp
company
The quality, artisanal skill and the creative impulse of a company that has always looked to the future, choosing the high technology and modernity, whilst keeping alive that involvement and unique, singular passion typical of a family-run business. Initially it was Enzo Fusco who gave a name and face to FGF Industry, this solid reality with authentic Made in Italy DNA. Today FGF Industry is based in Montegalda, in a strategic position between Padua and Vicenza, close to the Grisignano exit of the A4 motorway. The administrative and commercial management is based here too, and even the brand new showrooms for the different lines have found their perfect setting.
the north face
The North Face® embraces the philosophy “Never Stop Exploring™,” and since 1968 we’ve supported more expeditions than any other company in the outdoor industry. As such, we’ve been privileged to share the world’s wildest dreams in the world’s wildest places. We enable exploration, we make our gear for serious adventures, and from what we learn on our expeditions, we make better gear, be it outerwear to survive Arctic cold, tents to withstand jet stream winds, or the footwear to sprint across America. The North Face® Athlete Team was founded in 1991, but we’ve been supporting and equipping expeditions since our earliest days. The team is global, and we support adventurers in every nation where The North Face® label is worn. But we do more. We’ve helped remote mountain communities with outreach projects. For example, The Himalayan Cataract Project was a mobile clinic brought to Nepal on one of our climbing expeditions. It restored eyesight to villagers who’d been blind for decades. As with The Himalayan Cataract Project, on many of our expeditions, we’ve quietly invested assets and resources in the communities where our adventures take place. Our athletes are our heroes. They are our friends. They are our inspiration. Through their adventures, the Athlete Team inspires others to love and preserve the wildest places on earth.
Line Plan stone CATEGORIA MERCEOLOGICA
NUMERO MODELLI
GIUBBINO
1
island DETTAGLIO 1 2
GIUBBOTTO
4
1 1 1 1 1 1
GIACCONE
13
1 2 2 3 1 1 1
TRENCH
3
1 1
JACKET
1
1
BOMBER
1
1
BLAZER
2
GILET
2
SOPRABITO
1
1
PARKA
1
1
CAPPOTTO
1
1
GIACCONE POLY
3
1
1 1 1 1
1
TOTALE
1
34
MATERIALE DAVID TC PRIMALOFT LEATHER MUSSOLA HIDDEN WATER RESISTANT WOOL PRIMALOFT SOFTSHELL TANKSHIELD PANAMA HEAT RASO GOMMATO SAIA DOPPIA FACCIA CRINKLE REPS BLACK DENIM COVER DAVID TC TANKSHIELD RASO GOMMATO DAVID TC DAVID TC BLACK DENIM COVER DAVID TC WATER RESISTANT WOOL HIDDEN PERFORMANCE COTTON MICRO REPS WATER RESISTANT WOOL POLY-COVER AND KNIT POLY-COVER AND FUR POLY-COVER
COLORI 3 2 2 1 1 1 2 1 2 3 2 4 2 1 1 1 3 3 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 3 2 1
51
of potential Competitors C.p. CATEGORIA MERCEOLOGICA
company NUMERO MATERIALE COLORI MODELLI B-DRILL
2
2 2 1 4 3 3 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
31
DENVER
GIACCONE
7
PIUMINO
6
BLAZER
3
GIACCONE + PIUMINO
2
COAT
3
BOMBER
1
MICROKEI NYCRA SHETLAND DD SHELL JPT TACTEX JPT NYCRA RASO MAC MICROKEI NYCRA MICROKEI RASO MAC SHETLAND NYCRA
TOTALE
22
1
Swot
opportunities Technology garments segment in high growth Exploit unknow B2B textile companies making deals Lack in contemporary fashion design in tech-outerwear market
Monsters could be aggressive No contract power with great distributors Probably lack of money to be competitive
THREATS
Analysis
STRENGTHS Recycle Sustainable Technology Functionality Themes Meticoulus Distictiveness
Price Distribution Brand Awarness Small Niche Wrong MKT Segment for our skills
WEAKNESSES
Positioning : actual tech materials The North Face Patagonia
Stone Island
C.P. Company
Final Home Acronym Off-White Demobaza
Musto
Y-3
Rick Owens
Yeezy
Duvetica Moncler Fay
Performance
avantgarde
classic materials
Positioning : potential tech materials The North Face Patagonia
Stone Island
C.P. Company
Final Home Acronym Off-White Demobaza
Musto
Y-3
Rick Owens
Yeezy
Duvetica Moncler Fay
Performance
avantgarde
classic materials
Define Goals
Probably the best possible purpose could be to convert weaknesses into strenghts. But nothing is perfect we can only try to make it so, specializing our processes, defining our collection in a real joined product mix but sure not to forget the ethic mission. To make a great deal we need to define our market segment increasing the daily wearability for a bit younger target. Fixing three of our weaknesses luckly we will fix the others as well.
price RANGE
distri bution
Price is fixable. We spent money on our process because they are totally defined by the design orientation and there is not a present strong business department since just follow the policy “sell something already produced in numbers already defined and not increasable”. With a managed and enegeneered process entrusting manufacturing companies, even smaller assuring the maintanance of our ethic vision and mission. Increase is the word. Our not precise lining definition make us untargetized. A total design orientation is the best choice for a start-up that wants to be on press, but to become a company that can get a real market segment we just need a strong distribution chain, and we can build it up only with a real purpose, coming out from and idea that can involve souls of people. We couldn’t, now we can.
We are known, by who? Insiders, and not all of them. Is it enought? I don’t think so. Those two question drive us to the third and last important question. By whom do brand we want to be known? That’s the matter. awarness A reaserach and costruction of a consumer is the first step, after this we must build up a communication mix directly for them avoiding mistakes made on social media until now and a strong product advertising. Thinking about trying to convert threats in opportunities we could cover the lack of money reducing costs consequently of the reductions of prices, changing materials and processes that bring us the possibility to OPPOR our numbers and serve much more TUNITIES increase consumers. Exploiting even new neo-licence start-up companies making deals and growing togheter. We could assault ungarrisoned position of the market.
Strategies for
price
range
1. Deconstruction processes are the most expensive part of the chain and followed by this a non present buying in time plan that enlarges the engeneerization of production problems, adding non replicable stocks bought that’s why ours is a limited collection in terms of numbers. fixing : Make deals with neo-licence technical fabrics startups and introducing the possibility to re-assort retailers without limits of stocks in storage and next we enforce the organisation. 2. Our positioning choice, token by the marketing office are wrong for our skills and vision, we are strong on techniques for functionality and outerwear, why don’t we take advantage of this? fixing : A new positioning on the market, bring us in a fashion technical outerwear zone. Conseguently we must decrease prices to be competitive.
Strategies for
distribution
Actual Declared Stores :
39
3. Limited stocks. Limited retailers. Conseguently of our merchandising idea we have found 45 new cities where we could collaborate with 93 new retailers, after a special market research that advices us in this root. fixing : Our sales department needs to be more efficent and spend his time in an organised selling season, taking care of retailers with a wide and deep enought purpose to be commercialized. 4. We make clothes but we aren’t specialized in anything, we like outerwear but we have not a shaped line and a really defined target. fixing : We must build a real target, define it, assault it and reach it. This can come out only from us, because if we want a slice of the pie we should know which slice is better for us.
Potential New A Stores :
23
COPENHAGEN OSLO HELSINKI EINDHOVEN ROTTERDAM HAMBURG BERLIN PRAGUE ANVERS FIRENZE MONTECATINI TERME BOLOGNA ROMA TORINO MOSCOW ST. PETERSBURG SAMARRA KAZAN’ TOKYO OSAKA NIIGATA SHIZUOKA NAGANO
Strategies for
brand
awarness
5. We are not known enought by the audience, we are only known by the insiders and not all of them. Whom do we want to be known by? fixing : Make a great research and construction of a consumer embracing new slices of market, reducing a bit the age, and enforcing the vision in the new root perfectlyconnected with the product mix. 6. We depend by the press articles because we haven’t got a communication plan, not specified for our target, sometimes we post something, sometimes we release interviews, not planned, not in time. fixing : Build an efficent and cheap communication mix, comprised by social media marketing, SEM (search engine marketing) e SEO (search engine optimization) especially doing a real product communication on social media campaign. 7.We will even eploit the exposition to the theme from the audience, in the Cities where we will distribute the merchandise because them was choosed by two points : wealth of movements against terrosims and target stores. This can become a communication channel.
Exploit opportunities
8. Redefining the target we can enter in a market segment that embraces our technical skills, the “tecnology fashion garments� that is in high growth 9. We can make deals with new B2B companies for supplies, give them notoriety doing ingredient branding in our site, social media and packaging of our new collections. 10. We could fill the void in the contemporay and technical fashion outerwear segment, make it accessible even to younger people that in the past love the performance and great adveturous vision of Stone Island and C.P. Company, and now they would more design more from The North Face and Patagonia. For this segment we wanna be an actually empty bridge.
Mood
Potential Client
Hi to you all i am something new, that has grown, from the end of ‘80s to the middle ‘90s. I’m a worker not at the first step or a student, with middle-high family benefits. Both are insiders in the worlds of arts, fashion, communication or photography. And i don’t fuckin’ like the common life of my age peers. Interested in the out-life : travels, trips, sports, exploration of the world, extreme sports, or something that put you in hard and exciting climate conditions. I’m not usually loyal with brands, but if i find the one I love I will bring it with me for many years. I like limited editions, co-brandings, but no big recognizable logos, not gold, not excess, excess just for sneakers, garment strange but not esagerete or gipsy. I believe in innovation, technology and funtionality for garments, already a lot of fabrics are now old, usefull and useless. I’m interested in economical context and actuality or politically happenings but even the environment is really important, especially when we talk about recycle, re-made, re-use and Rae-burn.
Merchandising Idea
AW16 plugin The AW16 menswear collection PLUG IN would be a group of symbols, for men and why not women, that want to show how much they aren’t afraid, not just with a post on social media, but with a garment that could represents who they are and what they want for the world, a symbol of multicultural love embracing everybody, muslims, christians, buddhists, blacks, whites, arabs and not. Talking about fabrics is a recall from the history to the future with fabrics directly from middle east stocks, to the hi-tech coatage bringing performance and resistance. And finally, shapes and volumes of this collection represent the skills of the company in design, and especially functionality and comfortability. Accessories are designed and printed in 3D, for the best realization. The concept emerged through the research of “why” of all of these bad actions make me aware. Step two, build up a clever answer.
Merchandise actual LINE
PLAN
FW PARKA
COLLECTION
2015 2
2017
REMADE TECHNICAL
BOMBER
3
JACKET
3
ANORAK
1
GILET
2
COAT
1
HOODIE
1
DUFFLE
1
HYBRID
1
SWEATER PUFFER
TROUSERS
TOTALE
1 1
REMADE
1
QUILTED
1
WOOL
1
REMADE
1
TECHNICAL
2
DENIM
1
TECHNICAL
2
QUILTED
2
INFLATABLE
2
WOOL
1
REMADE
1
QUILTED
1
REMADE
1
2
WOOL
2
COTTON
3
2
IFLATABLE
2
DENIM
1
TECHNICAL
1
DENIM
1
SWEATPANTS
1
3
22
30
Jump potential LINE
PLAN
FW PR1 PT2
REMADE
Parka
3
PT3 BH4 BT5
Bomber
2
JR6 JT7
Jacket
3
TECHNICAL
no hood, high neck, tapes
HALF
slim, pois, tapes
TECHNICAL
oversize, tapes
REMADE
2 layers, pois, 3 buttons
TECHNICAL
CR9
REMADE
3
CT11 RR12 RH13
2
TH14 TH15
TECHNICAL TECHNICAL
Swaeter
4
OR16 OT17
2 layers, tapes, zipper mant with hood + coat, zipper long lenght, high neck, tapes, 4 buttons long lenght, low neck, tapes, zipper mid lenght, low neck, tapes, zipper
Cotton + Tape A16-4344 Oniro + ELLE + Tape Oniro + ELLE + Tape Cotton + Oniro + Tape Oniro + ELLE + Tape
1
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343
4
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343
4
A15A24B49-4352 B08-4348
2
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343
Cotton + Tape A07-4352
4 1
Oniro + ELLE + B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 Tape
4
Reflect + Tape R00-4355 B05-4356
2
Cotton + Tape A24-7533
1
Reflect + Tape R00-4355 B05-4356
2 2
Cotton + Tape A07-7533
2
Cotton + Oniro A15A24B49-4352 B08-4348 + Tape
2
A16A15slim, tape in mid leg front Cotton + ELLE + and retro B05-4356 B03-4355 Tape
2
Cotton + ELLE + A07A24B49-4347 B08-4340 Tape
2
1
raglan sleeves, pois, tapes
HALF
raglan sleeves, tapes
HALF
slim, tape at side of leg
REMADE
oversize, tape in mid leg front and retro
TECHNICAL
2017
Oniro + ELLE + B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 Tape
REMADE
HALF
Trousers
hood, high neck, shoulder application, pois, tapes hood, low neck, tapes
TECHNICAL
Coat
2016
TECHNICAL
JT8
CT10
COLLECTION
Cotton + Tape A16-4348
Oniro + ELLE + oversize, tape at side of leg B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 Tape
4
DH18
Derby Shoes
1
HALF
tapes on stitching
Reflect + Tape R00-4356
1
BH19
Chelsea Boot
1
HALF
tapes on stitiching
Reflect + Tape R00-4344
1
TOTAL
19
42
Product Sheet Collection : PLUG-IN Style : JT7 Season : FW 2016/2017 Fabric : 60% Cotton 40% PU Description : Jacket covered by Mant
JT7
Cost Sheet Suggested Retail
Price
MK 2,5 690€ MK 3,0 828€
Material Oniro Reflec Nastrout Trim Zip Button Label Packaging Hanger Bag Total Materials % Raise of costs
Labor Patterncutting of 2 materials Sewing Mant Sewing Jacket Sewing Tape TOTAL Labor TOTAL Product Cost Mark Up Overhead Agent Royalties TOTAL Wholesale Price
Qty. 2,5 mt 2,0 mt 6,0 mt Qty. 1 3 1 Qty. 1 1
Price 8€ 7€ 0,12€ Price 3,00€ 0,80€ 2,50€ Price 1,50€ 0,20€
50,34€ 3,10€
7%
Time
Total 20,00€ 20,00€ 0,74€ Total 3,00€ 2,40€ 2,50€ Total 1,50€ 0,20€
TOTAL €/min
50,44€ Tot.Cost 5,00€
70min 120min 10min
0,40€ 0,40€ 0,40
28,00€ 48,00€ 4,00€ 85,00€ 138,44€
100%
132,44€
10% 5%
13,24€ 6,62€
284,74€
Product Sheet Collection : PLUG-IN Style : CT10 Season : FW 2016/2017 Fabric : 60% Cotton 40% PU Description : Long lenght coat
CT10
Cost Sheet Suggested Retail
Price
MK 2,5 384€ MK 3,0 459€ MK 4,0 619€ MK 4,5 689€
Material Oniro Elle Nastrout Trim Zip Label Packaging Hanger Bag Total Materials % Raise of costs
Labor Patterncutting of 2 materials Sewing Coat Sewing Tape TOTAL Labor TOTAL Product Cost Mark Up Overhead Agent Royalties TOTAL Wholesale Price
Qty. 1,5 mt 0,50 mt 6,50 mt Qty. 1 1 Qty. 1 1
Price 8€ 7€ 0,12€ Price 3,00€ 2,50€ Price 1,50€ 0,20€
26,48€ 1,85€
7%
Time
Total 12€ 3,50€ 0,78€ Total 6,00€ 2,50€ Total 1,50€ 0,20€
TOTAL €/min
28,33€ Tot.Cost 5,00€
90min 5min
0,40€ 0,40€
36€ 2€ 43€ 71,33€
100%
71,33€
10% 5%
7,13€ 3,56€
153,35€
Product Sheet Collection : PLUG-IN Style : DH18 Season : FW 2016/2017 Fabric : 40% Cotton 60% PU Description : Derby shoes formal shape
DH18
Cost Sheet Suggested Retail
MK 2,5 MK 3
Price
270€ 324€
Material Reflect Sole and Heel Soul Sole Clean Sole Trim Label Packaging Box Total Materials % Raise of costs
Labor Cutting Closing Finishing TOTAL Labor TOTAL Product Cost Mark Up Overhead Agent Royalties TOTAL Wholesale Price
Qty. 0,50 1 1 1 Qty. 1 Qty. 1
Price 8,00€ 16,00€ 4,00€ 3,00€ Price 1,00€ Price 4,50€
24,50 1,71€
7%
Time 10 20 30
Total 4,00€ 12,00€ 2,00€ 1,50€ Total 1,00€ Total 3,00€
TOTAL €/min 0,40€ 0,40€ 0,40€
26,21€ Tot.Cost 4,00€ 8,00€ 12,00€ 24,00€ 50,21€
100%
50,21€
10% 5%
5,21€ 2,60€
108,23€
Fabric Detail Sheet
O2
Name Collection Season Company
ONIRO PLUG IN FW 2016/2017 Spalmatura Italiana
Fiber Content Fabric Width Fabric Weight
70% BioCotton 30% PU 140 cm 590 gr/m2
Delivery Date Description
BioCotton fabric under a PU layer
Cost
B05 Dye Finishing Dimension Stability WARP Dimension Stability WEFT
8,00 €/mt
B49
B08 Polymer previously colored Coated 88,7 % 53,0 %
B03
E3
Fabric Detail Sheet Name Collection Season Company
ELLE PLUG IN FW 2016/2017 Spalmatura Italiana
Fiber Content Fabric Width Fabric Weight
50% BioCotton 50% PU 140 cm 250 gr/m2
Delivery Date Description
BioCotton fabric under a PU layer
Cost
B05 Dye Finishing Dimension Stability WARP Dimension Stability WEFT
7,00 €/mt
B49
B08 Polymer previously colored Coated 93,2 % 62,0 %
B03
R8
Fabric Detail Sheet Name Collection Season Company
REFLECT PLUG IN FW 2016/2017 Spalmatura Italiana
Fiber Content Fabric Width Fabric Weight
50% BioCotton 50% PU 140 cm 180 gr/m2
Delivery Date Description
BioCotton fabric under a PU layer
Cost
10,00 €/mt
R00 Dye Finishing Dimension Stability WARP Dimension Stability WEFT
Polymer previously colored Coated 95,2 % 62,5 %
Fabric Detail Sheet Name Collection Season Company
FLEE009 PLUG IN FW 2016/2017 FleeCorp
Fiber Content Fabric Width Fabric Weight
60% BioCotton 40% PU 140 cm 280 gr/m2
Delivery Date Description
Cotton Fleece
Cost
B05 Dye Finishing Dimension Stability WARP Dimension Stability WEFT
F9
3,00 €/mt
B49
B08 In piece Sand softened -
B03
Fabric Detail Sheet Name Collection Season Company
MIL C PLUG IN FW 2016/2017 MMITextiles
Fiber Content Fabric Width Fabric Weight
100% BioCotton 140 cm 350 gr/m2
Delivery Date Description
Cotton Gabardine
Cost
A07 Dye Finishing Dimension Stability WARP Dimension Stability WEFT
M1
3,50 €/mt
A15
A16 Piece bath dyed Sand softened
A24
Fabric Detail Sheet Name Collection Season Company
N6 NASTROUT PLUG IN FW 2016/2017 Nastrificio Fiorentino
Fiber Content Fabric Width Fabric Weight
100% PP 25 mm 5 gr/mt
Delivery Date Description
Tape
Cost
0,12 €/mt
4344
4348
7533
4352
4356
4347
4343
4355
Dye Finishing Dimension Stability WARP Dimension Stability WEFT
Piece bath dyed Shining 98,9% 94,2%
Trim and Findings Sheet Product ID Collection Season Company
ZP90 PLUG IN FW 2016/2017 Zform S.p.a.
Material
100% PVC
Size Description
22mm - 8mm Polymer fusion
Cost
Dye Finishing Notes
90cm/22mm/
Polymer previously colored Matt
Trim and Findings Sheet Product ID Collection Season Company
PV01 PLUG IN FW 2016/2017 S.E.H.Kelly Ltd. (UK)
Material
100% PVC
Size Description
Lined 34 - Lined 28 Polymer fusion
Cost
B05 Dye Finishing Notes
1,20 €(34) - 0,80 € (28)
B49
B08
Polymer previously colored Matt
B03
IN STORE DATE
QUANTITY
WHOLESALE PRICE
COLORS
COST
SIZES
MATERIALS
STYLE
CODE
Buying
M1 - 100% Cotton N6 - 100% PP
A16-4344
IT 48 - 54
75 €
150 €
388
15/06/17
Parka TECHNICAL
O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 IT 48 - 54
88 €
176 €
514
15/06/17
PT3
Parka TECHNICAL
O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 IT 48 - 54
88 €
176 €
514
15/06/17
BH4
Bomber HALF
M1 - 100% Cotton O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU N6 - 100% PP
A15A24B49-4352 B08-4348
IT 48 - 54
40 €
80 €
246
15/06/17
BT5
Bomber TECHNICAL
O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 IT 48 - 54
44 €
88 €
246
15/06/17
JR6
Jacket REMADE
M1 - 100% Cotton 100% PP
A07-4352
IT 48 - 54
52 €
104 €
214
15/06/17
JT7
Jacket TECHNICAL
O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 IT 48 - 54
82 €
164 €
564
15/06/17
JT8
Jacket TECHNICAL
O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
R00-4355 B05-4356
IT 48 - 54
128 €
256 €
564
15/06/17
CR9
Coat REMADE
M1 - 100% Cotton N6 - 100% PP
A24-7533
IT 48 - 54
55 €
110 €
214
15/06/17
CT10
Coat TECHNICAL
O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
R00-4355 B05-4356
IT 48 - 54
68 €
136 €
564
15/06/17
CT11
Coat TECHNICAL
O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 IT 48 - 54
68 €
136 €
564
15/06/17
RR12
Sweater REMADE
M1 - 100% Cotton N6 - 100% PP
A07-7533
IT 48 - 54
25 €
50 €
464
15/06/17
RH13
Sweater HALF
M1 - 100% Cotton O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU N6 - 100% PP
A15A24B49-4352 B08-4348
IT 48 - 54
32 €
64 €
464
15/06/17
TH14
Chino HALF
M1 - 100% Cotton E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
A16A15B05-4356 B03-4355
IT 48 - 54
29 €
58 €
304
15/06/17
TH15
Chino HALF
M1 - 100% Cotton E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
A07A24B49-4347 B08-4340
IT 48 - 54
29 €
58 €
304
15/06/17
OR16
Oversize REMADE
M1 - 100% Cotton N6 - 100% PP
A16-7533
IT 48 - 54
25 €
50 €
304
15/06/17
B03-4355 B05-4356 B49-4347 B08-4343 IT 48 - 54
33 €
66 €
304
15/06/17
PR1
Parka REMADE
PT2
OT17 DH18 BH19
N6 -
O2 - 70% Cotton 30% PU Oversize TECHNICAL E3 - 50% Cotton 50% PU N6 - 100% PP
Derby Shoes HALF
B4 - 60% Cotton 40% PU N7 - 100% PP
R00-4356
IT 39 - 44
31 €
62 €
1060
15/06/17
Chelsea Boot HALF
E5 - 60% Cotton 40% PU N7 - 100% PP
R00-4344
IT 39 - 44
31 €
62 €
950
15/06/17
TOTAL
QUANTITY : 8746
Plan
Avarage Cost per Item
54,00 €
Avarage Wholesale Price per Item
107,00 €
Total Cost of Production
472.284,00 €
TOTAL REVENUE COLLECTION FW 2015/ 2016
600.000,00€
TOTAL EXPECTED REVENUE FOR NEXT COLLECTION FW 2016/ 2017
INCREaSE
944.568,00€
57,5%
Conclusions
Here we are. Recapping we can see that with a serious purpose we can reach the wanted market segment, because first we fixed the price-range becoming in line with our kill competitors, using new materials and engineering processes. Using locations where terrorism is bigger, and where people are very active against it we could reach in 2 years, 12 countries, 35 cities, and 73 new retailers. For this season I build up a projection where the brand reaches just the 30% of those. Enlarging widely in the next season, we can complete the remaining 70% if we believe it with a strong commercial division. Foget talking about style and design, at this point we see that the line plan is changed to become more sellable. Purposes in 4 different colors each and merchandising categories will be reduced from 12 to 5, the most important ones, preferring to have 3 styles each catergory than 12 all different. All of these moves were calculated with a realistic point of view, sometimes probably understimating a bit projection.
Thanks for the attention : samuele guerrucci