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RE V OL UT I O N I Z I N G H AI R EXT EN S I O N S Hotheads Hair Extensions are human hair, adhesive weft extensions that are applied without the need for tools or heat. Our goal was to create a product for the salon professional that was simple…. fast…. and extraordinary, we have done just that. Hotheads Hair Extensions allow you to provide your client with a full transformation in under an hour; saving time, energy and money. Once you experience how quickly and easily you can apply Hotheads, you will love how simple they are and will soon be telling all of your clients about them. In this training manual, you will find everything you need to create the perfect style for your client with Hotheads Hair Extensions. All you need to apply a full head of Hotheads is a few clips, a rat-tail comb and a color ring. Hotheads is an extraordinary revolution to the hair industry. For clients, our products have completely changed the way their hair looks and how they feel about themselves. For stylists, this has completely evolved their extension business.
W AYS T O US E H O T H EAD S • Add volume • Add length • Add highlights/lowlights • Haircut correction • Create or change haircut shape • Perfect for up-dos
L E A RN H O W T O S P EN D LES S T I M E MA K I N G M O R E M O N EY WI T H HOTHEADS AL L Y OU N E E D I S A C LI P AN D A C O M B 2
G E T T I N G S TAR T ED Client Consultation Step 1 It is important to make sure that your client understands the application process and how to care for extensions. Here are a couple questions that you can ask to make sure your customer and their hair are ready the day of the scheduled appointment. Has your client ever used hair extensions? Clients that have had extensions or long hair are accustomed to handling their hair and usually have no problems caring for extensions. Clients who have not worn extensions need a bit more information. What is the client’s goal for their extensions? It is important that you understand the client’s goal in order to determine how much product you will need. When was the client’s last chemical service- perm, relaxer, keratin, color? Chemical service should be performed at least 24-48 hours prior to the Hotheads application. How does your client care for their hair? Remember that the adhesive used for Hotheads extensions can break down if your clients use products containing alcohol, oil or ethanol. It is best if your client uses the Hotheads product line which is formulated specifically for second hair. your client swim or workout regularly? Inform your client that they can still do these things as long as they rinse their hair with fresh water immediately after sweating excessively or swimming in chlorine or salt water. Is the client taking any medications? Clients taking medications that cause hair loss may not be a good candidate for Hotheads. Discuss the flow of the appointment. Be sure to go over the timing of the application so you both know how much 3
G E T T I N G S TAR T ED Client Consultation Step 2 Using your color ring, assess your client’s hair to determine the right color of extensions you will apply. Hotheads is available in 42 different colors and can make over 500 different shades, so keep in mind that you may need to use more than one color to match your client’s hair perfectly. Hotheads also offers 3 different band options- Original, Ultimate & Micro Strands. The next step is to determine the length and volume of hair needed based on the density and length of your client’s hair and their desired end look. There are 20 pieces in one pack and the average client needs 3 packs to add length, however, the exact number will vary with each client. For example, when applying a full head on hair which is thicker in density, you may need 4 full packs; if the hair is fine, you may only need 2 packs. Adding volume and/or color effects can be achieved in less than one pack.
SE RV IC E AP P O I N T M E N T PR EP AR AT I O N The preparation is always the same no matter the desired goal. Shampoo: Clarify the client’s hair twice with Hotheads Squeaky Clean Shampoo. This process will remove all residue and buildup from your client’s hair. Do not condition or use any styling products until 24-48 hours after the Hotheads application, as this could compromise the adhesive properties of the tape tabs. Dry: Dry your client’s hair using a hand held blow dryer or a hooded dryer. Then, using a high-quality flat iron, straighten the client’s hair to allow for precise sectioning. Helpful Tip: Clients with a heavy weight line or blunt cut should have their hair texturized prior to application. This will allow the extensions to blend better into their existing haircut. 4
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HO T H E AD S AP PLI CAT I O N Hotheads extensions can be applied quickly and easily without the use of any special tools or heat. Next are the steps you should follow for proper application and placement: Sectioning Using your rat-tail comb, section the hair in the center and ear to ear parting; making four sections. Clip away the two front sections, as you will begin application in the back of the head, working from the occipital upward. For a basic full head application your first row should start at the occipital bone. Each row after should begin on the opposite side of the head than the row before to ensure that you automatically bricklay the extensions. Keep in mind that your sections should be clean and precise, so securely clip away all hair above the row you are currently working on.
Helpful Tips: Depending on the shape of the client’s head, you may have to raise the first row slightly. You always want to leave enough hair at the nape to cover the tabs should the client want to pull their hair up. As you move up your client’s head, your rows will generally be approximately an inch apart from each other, but they may be closer together or farther apart based upon your client’s desired look, length and density of their hair.
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AP P L I C AT I O N Step 1 Beginning with Row 1, on the right side of the head, measure ¾” from the client’s hairline; your first extension will start here.
Step 2 Use your rat-tail comb to take a section that is the same density and width as one piece of the extension.
Step 3 Flip the section up while holding the hair between your index finger and middle finger, using your pinkie finger as a hinge against the head. This will give you control of the section and allow the hair to be placed without creating tension.
Step 4 Place the first extension tab with the adhesive side facing up about 1/4th of an inch below the root of the section.
Step 5 Roll the hair down over the adhesive making sure to keep all hair smooth.
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AP P L I C AT I O N Step 6 Place the second extension tab with the adhesive side facing down on top of the first extension tab, sandwiching the hair between.
Step 7 Firmly press the two tabs together to activate the adhesive. This will create a water tight seal.
Helpful Tips: Always leave enough hair at the perimeter of the hairline to cover the tabs should the client want to pull their hair up. (Approximately 3/4th of an inch.) Always place the extensions in the direction of the hair growth making sure the hair lays down in the natural growth pattern. As you brick-lay the rows/extensions, you will automatically fill in any space, eliminating the need to cut the extension tabs. Making the extensions shorter in width will break the adhesive seal and could cause the tabs to flip and damage the client’s hair. Spacing between tabs may vary for creating volume, color effects and depending on if the client has thicker or thinner hair.. Keep an eye out for any cowlicks or splits in the client’s natural hair growth. Apply the tabs around them to avoid any possibility of the tabs showing, mostly in the top rows.
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AP P L I C ATI O N Continued Placement Each extension after the first will begin a 1/4 of an inch from the last. Average number of tabs per row: Row 1: 1-2 tabs, place right to left Row 2: 2-3 tabs, place left to right Row 3: 3-4 tabs, place from right to left Row 4: 4-5, tabs, place from sides in* Row 5: 5-8. tabs, place from sides in* (See Diagram on right) *Consider Ultimate & Micro Strands in your application of Rows 4 & 5 to create a flawless blend and to allow for versatility in styling. Repeating steps 1-7 (page 7 & 8), continue working your way up the head, row by row, until you reach the row above the ear. This would typically be your 3rd or 4th row. Next, measure one inch above the ears and drop down your two front sections to begin Row 4. This will allow space for eye or sunglasses and leave no bumps above the ears. Apply the left and right side tabs before moving in to the back of the head. Repeating steps 1-7, continue with Row 4 and 5, working from the sides in, until you have finished the full application.
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AP P L I C AT I O N Color Effects, Blending & Cutting Color Effects To create highlights, place the highlight color on the bottom and the color closest to the client’s base hair color on the top. To see more of the effect, use your notching shears to notch out some of the hair on the top tab so that more of the highlight color will show through. To create lowlights, you would do the same but place the lowlight color on the bottom and the color closest to the client’s base hair color on the top. Helpful Tip: Hotheads Extensions can be combined to match over 500 different shades. It is not recommended that you lighten the extensions, although color can be deposited down two levels. Keep in mind any coloring or chemical process done on the extensions will void the manufacturer’s warranty. Blending and Cutting Once the Hotheads are in place you will want to blend them to your client’s natural hair. You can do this using your shears or blending shears to point or slide cut. Helpful Tips: If the client needs to color between their extension services, we recommend doing a partial t-zone touch up, as long as the stylist makes every effort to keep the color away from the adhesive tabs. We do not recommend cutting the tabs into smaller pieces; should you decide to, make sure to round the edges to avoid potential discomfort.
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AF T E R C A R E After you have applied Hotheads, ensure that your client has all the proper tools to care for their new hair before they leave the salon. To help you with this, we have formulated our product line specifically for second-hair. Second hair is hair not attached to your head and not getting all the natural nutrients from your scalp. To ensure your client is informed on the proper care of Hotheads Extensions, provide them with the list of Hotheads‘ Client Do‘s & Don‘ts: Client Do’s Do wait 24-48 hours before washing or chemically processing your hair. Do use a soft, boar bristle brush; starting at the ends and working your way up, always brushing in a downward motion. Brush before shampooing to keep hair from matting. Do use a good leave in conditioner from mid shaft to ends, keeping away from the tape tabs. For best results use Hotheads products to keep extensions feeling soft and looking sleek and healthy. Do wear your hair in a pony tail when swimming, exercising and sleeping. Do have a licensed professional remove and reapply your extensions. Client Don’ts Don‘t use any products containing alcohol, oil, or ethanol. Alcohol based products are drying to the hair and can compromise the strength of the adhesive bond. Don‘t brush hair harshly. Don‘t go to bed with your hair wet. Don‘t chemically process your hair at home. Rely on your salon professional for any services while wearing extensions. Don‘t remove your extensions yourself.
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AF T E R C A R E When a salon professional and a client both follow the guidelines for Hotheads application and hair care properly, the results can be amazing and stay looking that way for 8-10 weeks at a time. If an issue should arise, refer to the following solutions. The extension slips off. Cause: At the time of the application the client‘s hair could have been too damp, products with too much oil or alcohol could have been used, freshly dyed hair or too much hair placed between the two tabs. Solution: Completely remove Hotheads and reapply with new tape, making sure your client’s hair is prepared according to the directions. Scalp irritations. Cause: The extensions could have been applied too close to the scalp, pulled too tight or placed against the natural growth of the hair. Solution: Completely remove Hotheads and reapply carefully following instructions. Let the strand of the client’s hair fall over the lower adhesive loosely and in the natural direction of growth. Itchy scalp. Cause: The scalp has not adapted to the new weight, or the client may not be shampooing and rinsing properly. Solution: No scratching; the scalp must adjust to the new weight. Just give the issue some time. Make sure to reiterate the importance of rinsing all product out of the hair. Remember, there is no latex, silicon or other allergens in the tabs that would cause irritation. Extensions are looking dull and brittle. Cause: The extensions could be damaged due to excessive heat or using the wrong products. Solution: Use Hotheads Hydrating Masque on natural hair and extensions. For optimal results, use Hotheads specially formulated products regularly. Extensions get matted. Cause: The client has probably gone to bed with wet or damp hair; has kept a towel on her damp hair for too long; hasn’t brushed her hair before washing; or has rubbed or massaged her scalp too much. Solution: Use our Hotheads Restore strand by strand and carefully work your way up with our extension brush. To avoid this from reoccurring, inform your client on the proper care for her extensions.
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FRE QU E N T L Y AS K ED Q U ES T I O N S How long do the extensions last? 8 to 10 weeks varying on the client’s hair growth. This is recommended to eliminate matting, frizzing and tangling, and ensures the extension is always fresh and close to the scalp. They can be reapplied up to 3 times for a total of about 6-8 months of wear; this is recommended so that the extension bond remains seamless. Where does the hair come from? Our hair is 100% cuticle on Remy human hair, from India. The extension itself is hand made in China with products from Asia, Europe and the US. Is it Human Hair? Our regular extensions are 100% Remy human hair, meaning the cuticle is intact and the hair is placed with the cuticle all facing the same direction. Benefits to this are no matting, tangling or short hair returns. Our fantasy color hair is a blend of temperature safe synthetic and human hair. Bright colors typically have drastic fading within one to two shampoos and this blend allows the colors to remain vibrant. This product can be ironed and blown out just like regular human hair products. Snappies are 100% temperature safe synthetic strands. Can you color it? There are 42 colors that can be blended to over 500 different shades. If you are unable to blend to create your desired shade you can deposit color down two- three levels. We do not recommend that you lighten the extensions. To create a more platinum blonde you can apply a toner to the 613 or 25. In the process of applying color, keep all color away from the adhesive tab. If you decide to deposit color to create your desired shade, it is recommended that you wait 24-48 hours from the time of application to allow the adhesive to seal firmly. Please keep in mind coloring the extensions voids their warranty. Can you iron, curl or blow dry the hair? All of the above heat processes are okay. Do not allow your clients to sit under a dryer while wearing Hotheads or to isolate any of the above heat processes to the adhesive tabs. Concentrated heat applied to the tabs can make the adhesive tacky. 14
FRE QU E N T L Y AS K ED Q U ES T I O N S How many come in a pack? There are 20 strands in each full pack that make 10 complete extensions. Mini Packs and Fantasy Packs contain 12 strands that make 6 complete extensions. Hi-Lite, Lo-Lite and Rainbow Packs contain 24 strands that make 12 complete extensions. Micro Strands come in 20 Piece Packs. How many packs does it take to do a full head? On average, it should take 3 (20 piece) packs to create length for your client. You are matching the density of your clients’ existing hair, so if their hair is thicker or they have shorter layers, you may need 4 (20 piece) packs; if their hair is fine, you may be able to complete a full head with 2 (20 piece) packs. If you are creating length in blunt haircuts, texturizing the client’s hair first will help in blending the extensions and existing hair. Creating volume depends on how much thickness they are trying to add, but typically volume is achieved in under a pack if you are not creating length. Keep in mind the number of packs may also vary based upon the amount of colors that you are trying to match in your clients’ existing hair. This should be considered for estimating price and timing during the initial consultation. How many tape tabs come in a pack? 60 Individual tabs which will re-tape 1 (20 piece) pack of hair. What lengths are available? 10 -12”, 14-16”, 18-20” & 22-24” Do you offer different textures? We have two textures: natural body wave and slightly textured. Our body wave hair is able to be worn straight or wavy. The Texture Collection is designed to blend more naturally with ethnic hair types. Can I reuse them? Yes, the suggested re-use is up to 3 times. After 3 uses, bulk at the attachment area may be created and new hair purchase is necessary. Be sure to purchase solvent and adhesive tabs for your re-service.
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FRE QU E N T L Y AS K ED Q U ES T I O N S What products can be used in the hair? We recommend that clients use the Hotheads wetline. It is formulated specifically for second hair (hair not attached and getting nutrients from the root). Heavy conditioners are not to be applied at the scalp, or adhesive tabs, but rather from mid shaft to end. Remind the client to rinse longer than usual to ensure there is no product left in the hair and to avoid products containing alcohol, oil or ethanol. Can roots be retouched while the extensions are in the hair? Yes, roots can be retouched, keeping in mind to stay away from the adhesive tabs. It is recommended that roots be done 24 to 48 hours prior to application. If roots need to be done between extension services and there is enough new growth to keep the color off of the tabs, we suggest doing a partial retouch along with the hair line. How do I remove them? Apply solvent to new hair growth and allow it to run down the hair shaft in between the adhesive tabs. Let it set for a moment and then separate the tabs. Do not rub the adhesive strip. A good tip is to take a styro mannequin head and place the strips on t-pins in the pattern they were taken from the clients head. This will guarantee an easy and accurate re-application. Can I swim, exercise or go in the sauna? We recommend applying and leaving in Hotheads Smooth Conditioner prior to swimming. This nourishes the hair and allows it to absorb the moisture. This prevents the hair from absorbing harmful elements, such as chlorine and minerals. Hair tangles when dirt and sweat build up so advise clients to wear their hair up or in a ponytail when exercising or relaxing in a sauna. They must be sure to wash their hair after working out, as well as brushing before and after exercising. Exposing extensions to sunscreen may cause discoloration. How much do they cost? Refer to current price sheet. Our pricing is based on volume discounts. The more you buy the better your price is. Price is according to length and color.
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A V E R AG E S AL ON P R O FI T
Stylist Time
60 - 90 Minutes
60 Minutes
Hotheads Partial Application
$300 - $500
$120 - $200
45 - 60 Minutes
45 Minutes
Hotheads Reapplication
$250 - $500
$12 Tape Tabs & Solvent
$100 - $200
90 Minutes
90 Minutes
Average Single Process Hair Color
$48
$4 - $7
$18
50 Minutes
25 MInutes
Haircut & Blow Dry
$40 - $75
N/A
$16 - $30
30 - 40 Minutes
30 Minutes
Full Head Foil Highlighting
$100 - $125
$5 - $7
$40 - $50
60 - 90 Minutes
45 - 60 Minutes
$250 - $400
$30
$100 - $160
120 - 150 Minutes
90 - 120 Minutes
Hotheads Full Head Application
Service Time
Keratin Treatment
Compared to Service Menu Standards
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Average Service Cost
Average Product Cost
Average Stylist Commission (40%)
$600 - $1200
$300 Average 2-3 (20 Piece Packs)
$240 - $480
$100 Volume in as little as a Mini Pack
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800.327.7971 | 954.963.9680 3500 W Hallandale Beach Blvd. Pembroke Park, FL 33023 www.hotheadshairwear.com
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