HAMPI Life and Ruins
HAMPI Life and Ruins
Photographed by Sanjana Deshmukh
William Collins An imprint of HarpercollinsPublishers 7th Lane Koregaon Park, North Lane Road, Pune, India www.WilliamCollinsBooks.com First Published in India by Sanjana Deshmukh in 2017 First published in the India by Sanjana Deshmukh, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York in 2013. Copyright Sanjana Deshmukh 2018 4 6 8 10 9 7 3 5 The right of Sanjana Deshmukh to be identified as the authors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Parents Act 1988. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-3-00-456786-4 BUSINESS / MANAGEMENT Book design by Sanjana Deshmukh and Author photo by Sanjana Deshmukh Typeset in Plantin Printed and bound in India by Kadam Printers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted, or stored in a retrial system, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, Recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers. This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, re-sold, hired out or otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior consent in any form of Binding other than that in which it is published without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser
About Hampi The capital of the Vijayanagar Empire from 1336 to 1565, Hampi is a UNESCO world heritage site located on the banks of river Tungabhadra in Karnataka. Hampi was ruled by four dynasties – Sangama, Saluva, Tuluva and Aravidu — whose princes built more than 500 monuments. The tourism economy in Hampi runs around the ruins of these very monuments. The ruins of the palaces, temples and royal buildings are a testimony to the wealth and grandeur of the Vijayanagar Empire.
Hanuman
Temple
Climb the 600 steps to Monkey Temple and see the mythological birthplace of Lord Hanuman, the monkey warrior god. Situated on top of Anjaneya Hill, the whitewashed temple overlooks the historic village of Hampi. After the strenuous climb--during which you’ll most likely meet some of the resident monkeys---you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of Hampi’s ancient monuments, the surrounding fields and mountains, and the rushing Tungabadhra River. All are welcome to enter the small, austere temple, pay respects to the deity, and listen to the priest tell the story of the monkey god.
Lotus Temple Witness the charming, World Heritage-listed architecture of the only building to remain untouched during the siege of Hampi, Lotus Mahal. The structure represents a mix of Hindu and Islamic architecture, designed in the shape of a half-open lotus bud. Pyramidal towers give the building a lotus-like shape, while arches that hold up the structure represent the flower’s petals. A close look at the pillars reveals exquisite carvings of birds and other artworks. During ancient times, the palace probably served as a place of relaxation for women.
Queen’s
Bath
Over five centuries old, Queen’s Bath remains one of the best-preserved sections of the World Heritage-listed Hampi monuments. Designed as a private bathing area for the king and his royal consorts, this structure probably formed part of a larger leisure complex, where the imperial family rested surrounded by dozens of attendants. A fine example of Indo-Islamic architecture, the rectangular structure features a relatively plain exterior and ornately decorated interior. At the center sits a pool nearly 2 m (6.5 ft) deep, surrounded by elaborate balconies and small windows. Fed by a vast network of canals and aqueducts, this bath once contained fresh water perfumed by thousands of aromatic flowers.
Step Tank Appreciate the geometric perfection of Stepped Tank--a part of the Hampi World Heritage Site that has never required even the slightest restoration. This giant, drain-free tank fed by an aqueduct boasts elaborate decorations across five tiers, the lowest of which is 7 m (23 ft) deep. Historians believe skilled carvers cut each block of green diorite at another site, before moving and assembling them within the fortified section of the Hampi complex. Adjacent to this unique water structure you can see another tank, which served as a bathing area for the queen and her royal attendants.
Vithalla Temple Find the spiritual heart of the city in the ruins of Vitthala Temple, a well-preserved part of the ancient metropolis in the World Heritage-listed Hampi complex. Believed to date back to the 16th century, the temple honored Vithalla, a form of Vishnu. The complex has become famous for its particularly decorative and unusual features, including a stone chariot with rotating wheels (now cemented down to prevent damage) and clusters of pillars designed to make the sound of various musical instruments when struck.
The iconic temple has amazing stone structures such as the incomparable stone chariot and the fascinating musical pillars. This predominant monument of Hampi is a major attraction of the ruined town and is a must-see for visitors and tourists. The Maha Mantapa or main hall of the Vithalla Temple is situated in the inner courtyard of the temple complex. It is a structure of immense beauty and is situated on a highly ornate base. The base is decorated with carvings of warriors, horses, swans and several other ornamental designs. The Maha Mantapa comprises of four smaller halls.
Virupaksha Temple The temple’s history is uninterrupted from about the 7th century. The Virupaksha-Pampa sanctuary existed well before the Vijayanagara capital was located here. Inscriptions referring to Shiva date back to the 9th and 10th centuries. What started as a small shrine grew into a large complex under the Vijayanagara rulers. Evidence indicates there were additions made to the temple in the late Chalukyan and Hoysala periods, though most of the temple buildings are attributed to the Vijayanagar period. The huge temple building was built by Lakkana Dandesha, a chieftain under the ruler Deva Raya II of the Vijayanagara Empire.
Streets of Hampi It’s like walking on a movie set or as if you’ve teleported back in time. The GIANT boulders scattered around Hampi had me day-dreaming about dinosaurs jumping around on them while the palm trees swayed overhead. The mass quantity of intricate towering Hindu temples on barren sandy land had me envisioning Shiva wandering around having a smoke.
Do not carry a lot of things with you because at several points, you will need to use your hands and legs to climb like a monkey. Apart from Matanga hill, there are many other viewpoints that you can access by climbing on the hills. They are easy to spot because you will see some people around.
Life in Hampi is very different compared to the hectic pace of the underpaid job I’m in back home. Time passes slowly. There is a stillness - a deep resonant silence amplified by the ancient looming presence of the boulders in this unique landscape. Nature has placed Hampi’s boulders in such a way that they appear to be arranged in different structures. It is said that these rocks have one of the oldest surfaces on the planet. Hampi has many different hills that you can climb for some stunning views of the entire area.
The locals of Hampi charmed us with their hospitality and warmth. After living in a city, the friendliness of the simple minded residents here was a refreshing experience. The grownups appeared to be shy but the children approached us many times to introduce themselves.
The ancient city of Vijayanagara had a distinctive style of architecture by utilizing and cutting the boulders. For us, this was the most interesting aspect of this place. Strangely, the teenage boys were notoriously flirtatious! Most of them spoke excellent English. We saw a few locals giving a bath and a massage to this elephant.
The views however were breathtaking from here and at-least there was no confusion on that front. Lush green paddy fields to the left, lush green paddy fields to the right and lush green paddy fields in front of me, below. Swaying in the sweet summer breeze with tall coconut trees dotting their fields, the crops seemed to be joyfully dancing on a rhythm of their own. One that is slow, graceful and very content. The snaking village-road only added to the beauty of an already charming setting.
Locally known as Pampa, the ancient name of the river Tungabhadra and the daughter of Brahma, Hampi was a much admired and envied town. It had trade ties with the Arabs, Portuguese and Italians but its golden run came to an end when a combined army of Muslim kingdoms laid siege to the town in 1565. The town was looted for six months before it was abandoned.
Acknowledgment Firstly, I would like to thank Prof. Rajendra Thakre for taking the time and efforts of taking us to Hampi and guiding us through the duration of the course. Secondly, I would thank Prof. Matthew Kurien for guiding us through the basics of publishing. I am grateful to both of them for giving inspiration and sacrificing themselves for our freedom. Lastly, to the readers who took interest by taking time to read this book.