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VANCOUVER VISITS SANTA RARHAKA

THE SANTA BARBARA CONSTABULAY

DON JOSE DE LA GUERRA

VOL. IV, NO. 4

Facing Page 1

DECEMBER, 1958

NOTICIA5 QUARTERLY BULLETIN OF THE SANTA BARBARA HISTORICAL SOCIETY MAILING ADDRESS: OLD MISSION, SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA

Vancouver Visits Santa Barbara By G. D. Carpenter Captain George Vancouver, the famous English explorer, is remembered chiefly by the Canadian Island and cities in British Columbia and Wash ington which bear his name, but few people are acquainted with the fact that he had ever visited Santa Barbara. The historical significance of that short sojourn of only eight days, back in the year 1793, is negligible, and it is one of the fascinating bits of our historic^ background that is likely to be completely overlooked in com parison with the more important and predominating events connected with early Spanish control and occupancy. The following condensed summary necessarily touches only the high lights of the total story involving innumerable interesting incidents and per sonalities. Strangely enough, it was the beautiful fur coats of the playful, sleek, little sea otters which sported by the hundreds of thousands in the coastal waters of the Northwest, that was one of the principal reasons for Van couver’s presence on the coast. The luxurious furs of these creatures, to gether with sealskins of high quality, drew traders and adventurers of many nations to hunt, or more often, to trade with the natives of the region. These enterprising gentlemen discovered that fabulous profits could be made by exchanging trinkets and ironware of paltry value for the furs that were in high demand in Europe and the Orient. A particularly profitable market had been developed in China, where the furs could be exchanged for Oriental goods on a basis that netted fantastic returns both to ship owners and traders. The Russians had for many years been engaged in the fur trade and had a number of well established trading bases on Kodiak and Unalaska Islands. In 1778 Captain James Cook’s ships reached the area of Puget Soimd, and it was the report of his voyages published in 1784, calling at tention to the enormous profits to be had in the fur trade, that attracted traders of many nations into this very lucrative pursuit. Although Spain had probed as far north as the Sound by 1774, she had not participated in the trade, nor had she established any settlements or military installations in that region. 1

By the year 1788 numerous reports reached the ears of the Spanish authorities at Monterey of the rapidly increasing trading operations of sev eral nations in what she considered her private territorial waters. These “illicit” activities could no longer be ignored. Further, well authenticated reports were being received that Russia was contemplating penetration to the southward with trading and military bases, and might even reach Alta Califomia. These alarming developments aroused a justifiable fear that other powers might shortly gain a foothold in her own domain. As a result, in 1788, Captain Estevan Jose Martinez, commander of the Spanish ship, Princessa, together with Gonzales Lopez de Haro,commanding the San Carlos, were dispatched to the northwest to investigate the entire situation. Upon their return, Martinez recommended strongly the immediate es tablishment of a permanent garrison at Nootka on the west coast of what is now Vancouver Island, and which was the center of the fur trading activity, the purpose being to be in a position to openly declare possession and con trol of the entire coast from Ae Sound to San Francisco Bay. As a consequence of Martinez’s recommendations, the following year, Martinez and de Haro were sent back to Nootka for the purpose of estab lishing a permanent military base, and with full authority from the Spanish crown to arrest trespassers. Shortly after the arrival of Martinez and de Haro at Nootka, in 1789, the Spanish officers proceeded to seize a number of vessels engaged in the fur trade, including two British ships, taking possession of ships, goods and shore installations and placing officers and crews under arrest. This and other high-handed acts of violence and seizure nearly brought England and Spain to a state of war. The two governments exchanged a series of fiery “diplomatic” notes and, in 1790, they reached an agreement known as the Nootka Convention. This agreement set forth the terms and conditions under which both powers would thereafter operate in the area. Spain also agreed to restore property and make reparations for damages suffered by British subjects. Spain’s attempt to assume full sovereignty over the northwest was called to a halt, at least in theory. However, diplomatic agreements have a way of being ambiguous and sometimes difficult of interpretation when applied to concrete situations and, because of further incidents, the British govern ment found it expedient to send a representative to the Pacific Northwest. It should be remembered that England based her rights to the Western coast of North America on the voyages of Sir Francis Drake in 1579, when the famous navigator landed on the California coast near San Francisco Bay “and took possession of limitless land” in the name of Queen Elizabeth. While Spain’s claim to the same area, based on the voyages of Cabrillo, antedated Drake by 37 years, yet her past neglect to colonize or establish military garrisons north of San Francisco Bay was not construed by the British government to in any way justify her claim to sovereignty over the Northwest coast or the fur trade. Further, Britain championed the doctrine of full freedom of the seas and the right to enter any port for purposes of supply or trade. In March, 1791, the British government commissioned Captain George Vancouver, who had accompanied Captain James Cook on his voyages some 3

ten years previously, to continue the explorations begun by Captain Cook and particularly to make an intensive survey of the west coast of North America. He was to report not only on ports, waterways and physical aspects of the coast of “New Albion”, as the area had been christened by Drake, but he was also to report on the natives, and the extent of occupancy by the Spaniards, their settlements and the adequacy, and location of their mili tary installations. Vancouver was also given special credentials, as envoy of King George III, to enter into negotiations with Don Juan Bodega y Quadra, the commissioner appointed by the King of Spain, currently in charge at Nootka, in an effort to settle disputes growing out of the Nootka Agreement and to bring about a more satisfactory working application of its terms. He was given authority to receive reparations and compensation for damages suf fered by British subjects. Vancouver had under his command the Discovery^ a ninety-foot armed sloop carrying a crew of 100 officers and men, and a smaller vessel, the Chatham, commanded by Lieut. Wm. Brooghton. On board both ships were map-makers, astronomers, geologists, and other scientific men. He was joined several months later by the Daedalus, a small supply ship. His route was by way of Cape of Good Hope, Australia, New Zealand, Tahiti and the Sandwich (Hawaiian) Islands. He finally arrived on the west coast in the vicinity of Cape Mendecino and spent several months exploring and charting the coast, arriving at Nootka about the end of August, 1792. The English officers were cordially greeted by Commissioner Quadra, who extended every courtesy, even honoring the visitors wth an “elaborate banquet”. Then followed several weeks of discussion, but owing to the ne cessity of securing additional instructions from their respective govern ments, the negotiations could not be fully concluded, and Vancouver sailed southward without arriving at a final settlement with Quadra. In spite of the fact that they were representing opposing and openly hostile governments, Vancouver developed a strong appreciation of Quadra, who was always the courteous gentleman. They were apparently kindred spirits, for Vancouver’s report refers to him in friendliest terms. It was November before the Discovery arrived at San Francisco Bay, where she was shortly joined by the Chatham. The commandante at the Port was Senor Hermenegildo Sal, who extended to Vancouver and his officers a most royal welcome. Joining with Senor Sal with no less cordiality was Fr. Antonio Danti, the principal of the Mission, and his colleagues, who add ed their hospitality and offer of services to the English officers. Because of this very gracious and friendly reception, Vancouver re mained twelve days, taking on board needed supplies and meanwhile en joying lavish entertainment. He was permitted to visit the Mission at Santa Clara, and on this ex cursion he gained much firsthand knowledge of the fertile valley to the south of the bay. The obvious fertility of the land and its possible agricul tural development impressed him greatly, but he was amazed at the lack of enterprise of either natives or Spaniards to carry on any extensive utilization of the land except for the grazing of their sheep and cattle. At the Mission, Fathers Tomas de la Pena and Jose Sanchez greeted the visitors most cor dially, and ministered to their needs “with anxious solicitude”. 4.

After leaving San Francisco Bay, Vancouver continued on to Mon terey, arriving on November 25, 1792. He was later joined by his supply ship, the Daedalus. There he found Senor Quadra, who had preceded him to that port, and who, after cordial and friendly greetings were exchanged, informed him that he had received orders on his arrival at Monterey, to capture any vessels engaged in commercial pursuits “except those of Eng land”. This led both gentlemen to assume that their governments had reach ed some degree of temporary understanding with regard to the Nootka situ ation and the rights of British ships in the area. (Actually, a final settle ment was not reached until January, 1794, some time after Vancouver left the coast.) Senors Quadra, Sal, acting Governor Arguella and all other Spanish officers, as well as the Mission Fathers wherever he visited, treated the English officers with the utmost courtesy, and Vancouver’s record of his voyages contains many expressions of highest praise. During his stay at Monterey, he was priveleged to visit San Carlos Mis sion, and was there entertained by the Fathers in charge. Vancouver was so charmed by the kindly spirit and noble character of the Father President of all the Missions, Father Ferrain Francisco de Lasuen, who was currently in residence at San Carlos, that he later named the two extremities of the Bay of San Pedro in his honor (Points Fermin and Lasuen). On the conclusion of his stay at Monterey, Vancouver dispatched the Chatham to the northwest coast on a surveying trip. The Daedalus sailed for Port Jackson, New South Wales, bearing a cargo of livestock for that new colony. Vancouver sailed back to the Sandwich Islands, where he hoped to establish more friendly relations with the native chiefs who had proved so hostile on the occasion of Captain Cook’s visit to the Islands. In the spring of 1793 Vancouver returned and spent several months exploring and charting along the coast of “New Albion”. It was October before he again put into the port of San Francisco, this time with great anticipations of a repetition of his former pleasant entertainment. To his surprise and great annoyance, he was accorded a most chilly reception. Al though his friend Senor Sal treated him courteously, he was ii^ormed that the present acting Governor Arrellaga had issued instructions that no entertain ment or other courtesies were to be extended to Vancouver or his men. His crew would not be privileged to go ashore except to take on supplies, and the governor further required “written statements” as to the reason for Vancouver’s presence in the port and the probable length of his stay. This ungracious and unfriendly attitude on the part of the governor was repugant to Sal who was, nevertheless, under necessity of carrying out the orders of his superior. Vancouver learned that Sal had been severely censured by Ar rellaga for allowing the English officers the privileges extended on their first visit, because both the trip to Santa Clara and the inspection of the sadly in adequate state of defenses of the Presidio, which under the astute appraisal of a representative of a foreign power with whom Spain had so recently been at swords point, could not have failed to divulge the vital weakness in the Spanish position. As a consequence of the lack of friendly attitude toward Vancouver on the part of the Governor, as soon as necessary supplies could be taken aboard, Vancouver sailed for Monterey. There he met with Governor 5

Arrellaga, who extended a formal and frosty greeting, declining to discuss the situation personally, preferring to deal on a basis of written letters. In these communications, he conveyed the information that he had no or ders under which he coiild entertain the English visitors, other tlian demand ed by absolute necessity. He also imposed restrictions on the movements of officers and crew. In justice to the worthy Governor, his attitude was quite understandable owing to the recent friction between the two governments, also Vancouver had reason to suspect that quite likely incidents connected with the shore leave of his men on the occasion of his former visit could be a contributing cause of the present restrictions. In any case, the situation was most humiliat ing and embarrassing and so Vancouver hastened his departure, declining to “enter into any further correspondence” or to accept the “incommodious assistance” proffered by Senor Arrellaga. On the fifth of November, he proceded southward toward Santa Barbara. Light winds made his progress slow and, as he rounded Point Concep cion, his ships were visited by many natives from the numerous villages along the coast. He mentions that their canoes were sturdy dugouts, often decorated with shells, in marked contrast to the craft of the natives around San Francisco Bay which were made of bundles of reeds and rushes. The natives seemed to be more intelligent “very unlike the inanimate stupidity that marked the character of most of the Indians” he had seen at points far ther north. About two in the afternoon of November 10th, he passed a small bay where there was a very large Indian village. One of these natives spoke a little Spanish and informed him that the Presidio was only a few miles to the eastward. About five in the evening he drew abreast of the cove where, in the distance, the tile roofs of Presidio and mission buildings were visible. Fully expecting an unfriendly reception, he intended to secure what supplies were available and be on his way in the morning. He sent Lieut. Swayne ashore to inform the port officials of his arrival. To his surprise, the Lieutenant was most graciously greeted by the commandante, Senor Don Felipe de Goycochea, who offered every refreshment the country afford ed and expressed the hope that the British ships would remain a few days to “allow him the pleasure of ministering to our wants and necessities”. Senor Goycochea further volunteered the information that wood and water would not be so readily obtainable at points further south, and, if such were needed, he advised Vancouver to replenish his supply here. Delighted by the unexpected cordiality (one of the earliest records of traditional San ta Barbara hospitality), Vancouver went ashore the next morning with Lieutenants Puget and Hanson to pay his respects to Don Felipe, who, though acting under the same instructions issued by Governor Arrellaga to his officials in San Francisco and Monterey, chose to interpret the orders in a cordial and friendly manner. Vancouver cheerfully agreed to the restrictions required of his men, which included remaining in sight of the Presidio at all times and returning aboard each night. The British officers were introduced to Friar Jose de Miguel and his companion, the Rev. Father Estevan Tapis, both of whom expressed “the greatest anxiety for our welfare”, and added their offer of whatever services the Mission afforded. 6

The officers were directed to the available sources of wood and water, and the Mission Fathers offered the Mission wagons and the help of Indians to transport wood to the shore. The water was not of good quality, being “dirty and brackish”, but after a bit of scouting, Vancouver’s men found a nice spring, the water from which supplied their needs, augmented by a supply from the Presidio well which was of good quality. In addition to a goodly supply of wood for fuel (Holly Leaved Oak) Vancouver’s carpenters cut some stout oak knees for the repair of the Dis covery’s head and bumkins. The substance of a few of Vancouver’s com ments on his impression of Santa Barbara are worth noting here. The Presidio was garrisoned by only 60 men, and these were seldom maintained at full strength, many being on occasion dispatched to other locations. As to fortifications, he considered them practically worthless, he says “Santa Barbara is a post of no small consequence and could be rendered very tenable by fortifying a small hill to the northwest of the roadstead yet they have only two brass nine pounders placed before the entrance to the Presidio itself,” a totally ineffectual defense. He mentions the ready availability of an abundant supply of limestone of good quality, also clay for tile and brick making, as well as flagstone. All these excellent materials were available at both Santa Barbara and San Buenaventura, which accounts for the superiority of their structure as com pared with those at San Francisco and Monterey, which were mostly of adobe construction. He notes that the sheep and poultry were of superior quality to those of other points he had visited, and remarks on the abundance of excellent fish which could be obtained from the natives. At the Mission and Presidio were enclosed areas where roots and vegetables were raised, but pulse and grain were secured from the Pueblo de Los Angeles and the San Buenaventura Mission. During the following days, while his crew were taking supplies aboard, Vancouver and his officers keenly enjoyed “the agreeable society of our Span ish friends and the daily recreation which the country afforded”. Van couver was so pleased with the gracious and cordial attitude of Don Felipe, who had extended every courtesy compatible with his instructions from the Governor, that he named the western point of the roadstead Point Felipe. (This name did not become official for it is now Santa Barbara Point). He was impressed by the “Christian-like benevolence” of the learned and devout Fathers at the Mission and enjoyed their society immensely. A very pleasant addition to his association with the latter was the arrival of Friar Vincente de Santa Maria from the Mission of San Buenaventura. This good Father had heard of the arrival of the English ships and brought twenty mule loads of produce from his Mission Gardens, as well as ten sheep. Friar Vincente urged Vancouver to return wth him to visit his Mission, but instead, Vancouver prevailed on him to return to the Mission by ship, to which he agreed, much to the displeasure of the natives who journeyed with him, who pleaded with him not to trust himself to this ship and these strangers who, they were certain, would do harm to their beloved pastor. The evening of the 17th, both Friar Vincente and Father Miguel dined aboard the Discovery and were also entertained at breakfast the following morning. With a favoring breeze the afternoon of the 18th, Vancouver bade farewell to his Santa Barbara hosts and proceeded to Ventura, anchoring 7

offshore about 8 in the evening. The next morning, a heavy surf prevented the return of the good father to his people, who were gathered on the beach anx* iously awaiting his reappearance. It was not until the morning of Wednesday the 20th, that he finally managed to get ashore, where he was affectionately greeted by a large crowd of natives. Vancouver and his officers spent a pleasant day inspecting the Mission and its environs and visiting with Friar Vincente and his co-worker Father Francisco Dumetz. Their departure was delayed for another entire day while recovering an anchor, after which the little flotilla sailed southward for Baja California, stopping en route at several points. In the latter part of December, Vancouver again sailed for the Sand wich Islands where, on February 25, 1794, he succeeded in negotiating with King Kamehameha the ceding of the Islands to King George III. Shortly thereafter, Vancouver returned a third time to the Northwest, bound for the vicinity of Cooks Inlet where he took possession of lands as far north as 59 latitude on behalf of the English Crown. He spent some time investigating the Russian position in Alaska and finally returned to Nootka. November, 1794, again found him at Monterey, but this time under much more pleasant circumstances. Don Diego de Borica was then Governor, under whose more benevolent jurisdiction Senor Arguello was free to ex tend the courtesies denied on his previous visits. Arguello expressed immense satisfaction that it was now in his power to “supply refreshments and ad minister to our amusement and recreation”. The Governor, who was absent on Vancouver’s arrjval, returned shortly thereafter and cordially confirmed the welcome of Senor Arguello. After a very pleasant and extended stay at Monterey, Vancouver returned direct to England, without again visiting Santa Barbara. That George Vancouver was not only an able explorer and navigator, but also an astute observer and an excellent reporter of what he saw, is revealed in the report to his Government. He became keenly aware of the very tenuous hold which Spain had acquired over the vast area over which she claimed sovereignty, and was amazed at their failure to exploit and ^Ionize except in the most minor degree at a few points along the coast. Her military bases (Presidios) were absurdly inadequate to meet any ex tensive hostility of the native inhabitants of the coastal areas, and it was fortunate that these tribes were, for the most part, a peaceable and unwarlike

people. As against other powers who might seek to gain a foothold, such de fenses as he had seen at their points of occupancy “were only sufficient to throw irresistable temptation in the way” of any powers who might cast a covetous eye on this virgin land. Vancouver’s inconclusive negotiations with Quadra, while important, were far outweighed by the comprehensive information which he brought back to England. A full account of Vancouver’s voyages, as touching his explorations on the California Coast, has been recently published in a fascinating book, Vancouver in California, the original account of George Vancouver, edited and annotated by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur, from which a great deal of the data contained in this article was gleaned, and which is published by Glen Dawson, Los Angeles.

The Santa Barbara Constabulary By Edward S. Spaulding When, at the entrance of the United States into active participation in the First Phase of the World War, the Santa Barbara Unit of the Naval Militia was called into the federal service, our community suddenly found itself with much less than adequate police protection. There was the Sheriff, Jim Ross, to be sure, and his handful of deputies for duty throughout the County; and there were the Chief of Police, Sam Kelly, and a force of four* teen men for duty within the City. There were, also, the men of the Fire De* partment. In ordinary times, these groups of organized and disciplined men were adequate to guarantee the peace, for Santa Barbara has ever been a quiet, almost a bucolic, community. In the extra-ordinary times of the World War, however, some unusual catastrophe might visit us, some emergency of unprecedented size might arise. If and when this happend, these men, courageous and devoted as they were known to be, would find themselves inadequate to meet the situation. The pressing need for some large, organized force of a reserve nature was so obvious to all responsible citizens that there was much discussion of tlie best way to bring such a force into being. Talking over this important matter one day with my friend and neigh bor, George Potter, I suggested to him that a so-called Government Rifle Club be formed among us and that we arm ourselves with Springfield rifles from the United States Arsenal at Benicia. This suggestion met with favor and such a club, under government auspices, was immediately organized with a membership of only a few less than seventy men. George Potter was elected to its presidency, and a young man in the real estate office of Louis G. Drey fus, Hiram Edwards, was made Secretary. Each man of us put up the money necessary for the purchase of a Springfield rifle, with or without a star gage barrel according to the preference of the individual member; and an order for the whole number was sent to Benicia in the name of the Club. Not being willing to await the arrival of the Sprinfields before taking further action, we began to drill as a military company in the gymnasium of the High School, then located on De la Vina Street between Victoria and Anapamu Streets. For rifles, we used the sporting rifles that we already pos sessed, rifles of every make and every caliber. Enthusiasm ran so high that we not only learned fast but we had much satisfaction in the learning. At tendance at the Tuesday night drills was close to one hundred per cent. Two things now stand out clearly in my memories of those evenings: all of us wore long four-in-hand neckties, and these ties continually became entangled in the mechanisms of our lever and bolt action rifles when it came to “In spection Arms”. This difiiculty was a source of embarrassment to the more ardent members of our company. In addition to this, it was very hard on the neckties. The second recollection that stands out clearest in my mind is that of my dismay when I saw the deep pits that the butts of our sporting rifles were making in the polished hardwood floor of the gymnasium when Ave grounded our weapons at the command “Order Arms”. As a former gyirmast, I did not like this injury to the gym floor. To assuage my misgivings somewhat, when I reported the matter to the top “brass”, I was told that “this is war, and war is waste. It has been so from the beginning of time, and it 9

will always be so. Forget the pits!” This was so obviously true that I could not but agree with it, yet it failed to satisfy me wholly. I still shake my head sadly over that ruined floor. When we took to the streets, as we sometimes did on clear nights, and went swinging along under the open sky, it was the architect, Winsor Soule, who lead us in singing such new and stimulating songs as “It’s a Long Way To Tipperary”, “Katey”, “Pack Up Your Troubles In Your Old Kit Bag’, and “0\'er There”. Those short night drills, when we marched and sang together through the streets of our community, were very pleasant and very stimulating. “War” was then a thrilling adventure in comradery. One night, we were called out on “emergency maneuvers”. It was about nine-thirty when the alarm sounded. My platoon was hurried to the bend in the Mission Canyon Road, a place not more than five hundred yards from my home, and ordered to “prepare for any emergency”. Be cause of our excessive enthusiasm and our relative youth, we accepted the situation with great seriousness and we did our best to simulate an emer gency in fact. I posted men along the road, starting from the little schoolhouse at the comer, at the designated intervals; and I cautioned each one to keep alert and to be ready for instant action. It was a lovely night. The stars were bright overhead and, on either side of the road, the canyon walls came down familiarly though vaguely seen in the clear, soft starlight. A more thoroughly satisfying-scene it would have been hard to find anywhere else in the world. We all enjoyed the epi seems sode immensely. Writing of it now, after the passing of forty years, it almost childish and silly; but it did not seem so to me on that far away was declared to be over and ni ight. About eleven o’clock, the emergency we were returned, singing, to our homes: “ONE, two, three, four. ONE, two, three, four. “There’s a long, long trail awinding into the land of my dreams, “Where the nightingale is singing and the pale moon beams—” As girls and women like to dance, so young men like to march, and sing. Mr. Gilbert’s famous lines, “When constabulary duty’s to be done, the policeman’s lot is not an happy one” found no echo in our hearts. While all this was going on, it was decided by those in control of the affairs of the City to expand the organization to six companies, of which ours was to be “Company B”, and to call the new and enlarged organization the “Santa Barbara Constabulary”. Eventually, this reserve force numbered between five and six hundred men. We were of all sorts and ages, from white haired, greatly respected Judge Canfield to raw high school sopho mores. Later, as man after man dropped out of the Constabulary to enter the Army or the Navy or some other of the war services, their places were taken by other citizens who, knowing that they, too, soon would be called to the Colors, were glad to avail themselves of the opportunity for military training that the Battalion offered to them. Our company Captain, Frank Nagle, a former West Point Cadet, the son of General Nagle of the Regu lar Army, was chosen to be tlie commander of the Battalion, with the title of Major^ and Walcott Tuckermann was the senior Captain. Sidney Mc10

Farland, at first, was a lieutenant and, later, a captain. Our uniforms were stiff, gray-blue hats of the “forest ranger” type, gray-blue woolen shirts, and khaki trousers. We were sworn in as special officers on the terrace in front of the old post office building, where were the offices of the Draft Board, in a well attended ceremony. There was keen rivalry between the six companies. Possibly because ours was the first to organize, we considered Company B to be superior to all the others. Out of this healthy rivalry there sprang an amusing incident. When we were told that the hats and shirts of the new, gray-blue uniform were available, our company officers made it a point of honor that we should be one hundred per cent in uniform at the next drill. After getting this word, I hurried down to the Great Wardrobe to purchase my hat and shirt. Wlien I arrived at the store, I found that the shirts were there in plenty but the hats were in short supply. Actually, after I secured mine, there were only thirty-seven hats left. I immediately purchased the lot. {I was “quartermas ter” of Company B at the time.) In this way, all of our men obtained hats; and the few that remained in my hands I disposed of easily to the hatless men, “hatless wonders” we called them, of the other companies. At the next drill, we of Company B were greatly amused by the appearance of those other companies who marched and went through the manual of arms in every imaginable style of headgear. Our preeminence in appearance lasted only a week or ten days, however, until the Great Wardrobe received an other shipment of gray-blue ranger hats. When our Springfield rifles arrived, we at once started regular target practice on a range in upper Rattlesnake Canyon. Later, we moved the range to a better location near Ellwood. This was not immediately after the formation of the Club, however, but some weeks after this event be cause there was a considerable delay in the delivery of the rifles to us. The men at the arsenal informed us that our Secretary had made a mistake in filling out the requisition and so it could not be honored. This mis take, when it was explained to us, proved to be of so small a nature that we were disgusted to learn that it would be considered at all in so great an emergency. On the requisition form was the question “Date of last previous order?” As Edwards had stated on the line immediately above this one that this was our first order, he merely drew a line through the space left for the answer to this question. Because of this failure, the order was returned to us unfilled and about six weeks of training with the Springfields was lost by us. We heartily damned all bureaucrats. On the rifle range, Harry Ross at first was much the best shot or marks man in the Company. He had been shooting for years in national and even international competitions and he was an expert rifleman. Of the tyros, “Boss” Whittiker and one or two other men soon forged to the front. For myself, because I had hunted with shotgun and rifle since boyhood, I was able to hold my own in offhand shooting at short ranges; but, in the prone position at long ranges, I was a poor shot. I never learned to use a sling comfortably and easily. At six hundred yards, an eight inch bullseye, though seen through peep sights, looked very small to me. I found it only occasion

ally. One fact that I learned early on the Ellwood range surprised and in terested me very much: standing directly behind a marksman and using good binoculars, it was possible to see the bullet from the Springfield in 11

flight and to call the shot on the target accurately—“Wide, two-thirty*’, “close, five,” “eight o’clock”, “bullseye!”, and so on, as the case might be. The second fact that I learned on the range was that ammunition of different dates of issue shot differently, that, once a rifle was sighted in with ammimition taken from one bandolier, the marksman must stay with that ammunition if he wished to do well. As an example of this, one Sun day morning. Boss Whittiker was doing very well on the six hundred yard range. I watched him score seven bullseyes in nine shots. Then his ammuni tion became exhausted. As a friendly gesture, I handed him a cartridge from one of my clips. The bullet from this cartridge, when fired, went wild, twothirty in the fourth ring; and so the really good score that we confidently had expected Boss to make on that day was lost. The other companies of the Battalion were armed with old, short barrelled Kragg rifles of, I think, Spanish-American War vintage. Occasion ally, a man armed with one of these antiquated guns turned up on our range and fired a few shots; but these guns were so inferior to our Springfields that few really good scores were made with them. Fortunately for all of us, constables and citizens alike, no emergency arose to call the Constabulary into active, aggressive duty. A serious fire of unusually large proportions swept the mountain range in November and, when it was burning immediately behind the City, Company B was actively engaged in fighting it for twenty-four hours; but this was the only time that, while I was a member of it, the Battalion was called out for emer gency duty. Each time that a contingent of draftees entrained from Santa Barbara for Camp Lewis, we escorted the cadre to the railroad station, draftees and constables alike marching with short twenty inch steps to the music of the Catholic Boys Band—Father Villa’s Band, we called it. At the close of the fighting in France, the Battalion was quietly disbanded.

Report on New Orleans Conference By W. Edwin Glediiill The National Trust for Historic Preservation, of which this Society is a member, held its 12th annual Conference in New Orleans October 30th to November 2nd. As Santa Barbara is so interested in preserving and restor ing the best of its historic past, Mrs. Gledhill and I flew to New Orleans to attend the Conference with the object of learning all we could about what was being done in other parts of the United States along these lines. We learned there is a fast growing movement, all over the United States, in zoning for preservation of historic buildings and sites and to prevent in those areas buildings which, on the outside at least, do not con form architecturally. For the sake of brevity, as it ties in with California architecture, and the value commercially to the city of this movement, I will limit myself to what is being done in New Orleans. We found that much of New Orleans’ revenue comes from its Port and the Vieux Carre, or French quarter. The local Chamber of Commerce stated that the Vieux Carre alone brings in 890,000,000.00 a year in the form of tourist dollars. A staggering sum! (While the proposed Pueblo Viejo zoning in the historic center of 12

Santa Barbara and the eventual restoration of the Presidio occupy a much smaller area, their value commercially and historically as tourist attractions could be just as potent for Santa Barbara as the Vieux Carre is to New Orleans.) The Vieux Carre Commission was authorized by an act of the State Legislature in 1936 and a City of New Orleans ordinance was passed in 1937. These were brought up to date in 1956. In the last eight years, at least five test cases for violations of the Vieux Carre ordinance have been taken to the Supreme Court of the United States and in each case has been decided in favor of the Vieux Carre Commission. These cases covered signs, demolition and alteration that would have been detrimental to the beauty and history of the district. One of the most important cases is an opinion by Justice Douglas in the case of Berman vs. Parker which was decided November 22, 1954, and which had the unanimous approval of the Court. Here follows an excerpt from that case “The public welfare is broad and inclusive, the values it represents are spiritual as well as physical, esthetic as well as monetary. It is within the power of the legislature to determine that the community be beautiful as well as carefully patrolled”. This concept of public welfare is now an acknowledged part of his toric preservation and zoning. Both California and Louisiana have Spanish backgrounds and there is a great similarity in architecture between some of the early homes there and here. True, the fronts of the buildings in the Vieux Carre use iron grills on their balconies but, in the rear patios, the second story used wood in its railings such as we see in Monterey and such as was used on the balcony of the Alpheus Thompson home in Santa Barbara. The buildings in the French quarter are of brick, which, when whitewashed, resemble the adobe build ings in California. The old buildings there are built to the line of the side walk, wth covered passages for wdks or wider ones for driveways leading through iron grill gates to the patios in the rear. From the gate, the tourist can often catch a glimpse of one corner of the patio with its flowers and plants against the 18 to 20 foot brick walls which separate it from the build ing next door. Out of sight from the gate are what were once the slave quarters facing the patio but which are now remodeled into charming guest rooms. Wliile some of the buildings in the French quarter still are being used as homes, most of them have been adapted for shops, tea rooms, clubs, etc., bringing a higher rental because of their attractiveness and thus encouraging their preservation. The members of the National Trust for Historic Preservation were en tertained with lavish and gracious hospitality. A candlelight tour of eight of the patios in the French quarter with the o^vners, dressed in Civil War costumes of beautiful silks and laces, was something never to be forgotten and in all cases we were shown the charming interiors of their homes. One on the list belonged to Gen. and Mrs. L. Kemper Williams of Montecito. A reception was held by Mrs. Francis Parkinson Keyes, the well known author of many books on the life in Louisiana. Mrs. Keyes is the present oivner of the Gen. Beauregard home. A buffet luncheon was given in the old Gallier City Hall on Lafeyette Square with an official welcome by Councilman Henry B. Curtis, on behalf 13

of Mayor de Lesseps S. Morrison, after which we were taken on a tour of the beautiful homes in the Garden District. The next day a large group of the members was taken on a River Road Plantation tour, first to “Evergreen Plantation” as guests of Mrs. Matilda Gray, where cocktails were served, and then on to famous “Oak Alley” plan tation, where Mrs. Andrew Stewart served a buffet lunch imder the huge live oak trees which lead to the levee. “Oak Alley” is noted for its fine breed of “Maria Gertrudis” cattle.

Conference of Western Museums October 17-18, 1958 The 16th annual Western Museums Conference was held at Cambria Pines Lodge, California, on October 17 and 18. The theme of the Conference was “From Historic House to Enchanted Palace”. The meeting was called to order at ten A.M. Friday, October 17th, by President Carl S. Dentzel, Director of the Southwest Museum in Los Angeles, and a welcome was given by James Whitehead, Supervisor of the San Simeon State Historical Monument. The Conference was highlighted by a tour of the Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument “La Cuesta Encantada”. This was under the su pervision of James Whitehead, Monument Supervisor, and his assistants. The members were taken to the two libraries on the second floor, not usually sho^vn to tourists. In one of the libraries Mr. Hearst had installed direct wires that ran all over his estate, including his favorite spot for picnics, and a complete connection with all his newspapers, which made it the nerve center of his vast empire. In this particular library were shown part of his fine collection of 16th and 17th centmy English silver. The official dinner was held at 8 P.M. at the Lodge, followed by ten minute statements from Directors of Western Museums on “Board Respon sibility”. Saturday morning was held a panel discussion: “Preparing the Castle for Public Use” by: Dr. Aubrey Neasham, Historian, State Division of Beaches and Parks. J. T. Chaffee, District Park Superintendent, Division of Beaches and Parks. James Whitehead, Supervisor, Hearst San Simeon State Historical Mon ument, State Division of Beaches and Parks. Those attending from Santa Barbara were: Miss Pearl Chase, Mrs. Russell Perkins and Miss Katherine Harvey. From the S. B. Museum of Na tural History: Mrs. D. Irma Cooke, Curator of Junior Education, Miss Nora K. Morres, Assistant Director, and Mr. Egmont Z. Rett, Curator of Onithology, and Mrs. Rett. From the S. B. Historical Society: Mr. W. Edwin Gledhill, Museum Director, and Mrs. Gledhill. 14

News Odds and Ends CAN WE SAVE THE JUDGE FERNALD HOME? Built in 1861-1862 by Judge Charles Fernald for his wife, Hannah Hobbs of Berwick, Maine, it stands today as the finest example left of this early period in Santa Barbara. This old mansion will be demolished unless $10,000.00 can be raised to move it to another lot and place it on a foundation. The house itself will be given without cost to the Santa Barbara Historical Society, and could be placed near the Trussell-Winchester adobe on the land on Castillo Street belonging to the Society. There it could be used for meetings and many purposes beside being shown to visitors on the same days that the adobe is open to the public. It is owned at present by a Mid-West insurance company and the prop erty has been leased by them to the local telephone company. This company will be required to demolish it if money cannot be secured to save it. The destruction of the Fernald home will cost the General Telephone Company considerable money and it has been suggested to them that, as a community service, and good public relations with this City, they donate part of the cost of moving the house to the lot belonging to the Society. It would be a magnificent and generous gesture on their part in appreciation of its historical background. My last visit with Miss Florence Fernald was about 3 weeks before she died on September 23rd at the age of 91 years. At that time she expressed the wish that the home in which she was born be preserved by the Santa Barbara Historical Society and that all the family papers and letters be given to the Society in memory of Judge and Mrs. Charles Fernald. CLOSING OF THE PRESENT EXHIBIT The Society’s rooms in the Old Mission will be closed on December first until the aimual meeting in January when the customary preview tea for members will be held. The new exhibit will feature material dating from 1850 to 1925. TRUSSELL-WINCHESTER ADOBE Santa Barbara’s State Landmark No. 559 at 412 West Montecito Street will be the scene of a tea for Historical Society members on the Feast Day of Santa Barbara, December 4th from 2:30 to 4:30, after which it will be open ONE afternoon a week, Fridays from 10:30 to 4:30. ATTENDANCE During the year, November, 1957 to November, 1958, 22,297 people vis ited the Society’s rooms and enjoyed its exhibits. W. Edwin Gledhill Museum Director

Santa Barbara Backgrounds By Anna B. Lincoln A special treat was offered this Fall, through the Santa Barbara Adult Education Classes, under the auspices of the Historical Society on the subject of Santa Barbara’s history, background, topography, and climate. one Mr. Edward S. Spaulding conducted the class, opening the series in of the usual school classrooms. However, anyone who had not arrived early had to stand or sit outside in the corridor as every possible seat soon was taken. Dr. Selmer 0. Wake, Principal, quickly came to the rescue and transfered the class to the Alhecama Theater, where there was just enough room for everyone to be seated. Mr. Spaulding’s presenUtion of the subject, so fascinating to newcomers as well as to natives and long-time residents, was carried along in a delight fully informal style. He interspersed his lecture with low chuckles as he reminisced over some amusing anecdote or choice story. Everyone found himself chuckling right along with him. Many unusual and interesting side lights were brought into the woven fabric of Santa Barbara’s historically rich beginnings. Each evening ended with resounding applause, showing appreciation of the effectively planned and given lecture. Those present had the feeling of being aboundantly rewarded for their effort in attending. These classes were originally planned not only for the teachers of Cali fornia and Santa Barbara history (of which there is no local area text book) but for the many residents who wanted to fill in with more of the colorful past of this famous city and area. That the course was offered through the Adult Evening Classes without fee we should be most grateful. The six lectures were on: 1. Environment: Including the climate and physical features of this area and its relation to the global seasons, (This was particularly enlightening to tho^ who had often wondered about our dry seasons, short winters, and whimsical unpredictable wea ther their effect on our water resources was another important highlight. 2. Native plants, animals, Indians, their characteristics and culture. 3, The Spaniards, explorations and explorers. Establishment of Presidio and Mis sions. Architecture. Adobes. Gardens. Neophytes. Water System. 4. The Mexicans, War for Independence, popular government, civil strife, Monroe Doctrine. Secularization—ruin of the missions. Coming of the foreigners—Russians, Eng lish, American, Italians, Chinese, 5. Annexation to the United States, Fremont. Santa Barbara, the Capitol, Pio Pico, et al. The Gold Rush, Whitney and Brewer, Santa Barbara Mission, Formation of our County. Drought of 1862. 6. The modem city. Horse and buggy days. Trails, roads, wharf, streets, steamers, railroad. i.i ci -i' There was time after each lecture for questions which Mr. bpauldmg cheerfully answered from his seemingly bottomless well of information. I do hope we can prevail upon the Historical Society to give this course another Fall or Spring, perhaps as a course of eight evenings instead of six. This is a subject with many ramifications and somehow, time kept running out. Two more evenings might give an opportunity for more amplification. Several beside myself, I know, were not able to attend all the classes (no fault of Mr. Spaulding) and a number were not able to sign up this Fall, Of course, there are many who somehow didn’t know of it until it was well started, and undoubtedly there are others who, reading this now, are hearing of it for the first time and are wishing they had known of it sooner, too. Let’s all speak up and request a REPEAT! Thank you, Mr. Spaulding, and the Historical Society. 16

SANTA BARBARA HISTORICAL SOCIETY OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS 19 5 8 OFFICERS President First Vice President . . Second Vice President

Thomas J. McDermott Hugh J. Weldon ..Elmer H. Whittaker . . . Paul G. Sweetser

Secretary Treasurer Past President

..Mrs. Henry Griffiths Elbert S. Conner DIRECTORS

Mrs. Natalie C. Bigelow Elbert S. Conner Mrs. Wilson Forbes John Galvin W. Edwin Gledhill Mrs. Robert Ingle Hoyt Rev. Basil Kelly, O.F.M.

Dr. Hilmar 0. Koefod Mrs. E. F. Menzies William S. Porter Miss Edna Sharpe Mrs. Van Rensselaer Wilbur Don W. Woods

W. Edwin Gledhill Mrs. W. Edwin Gledhill...

...Museum Director Curator Editor-in-Chief

Edward Selden Spaulding

GIFTS ARE ACKNOWLEDGED GRATEFULLY FROM: Terfilio Arellanes .Mrs. Wadsworth Baylor .Mr. and Mrs. Hariy Brobst Misses Winifred and Theodora Coffin .Mrs. LawTence Cobb Dr. and Mrs. William H. Ellison Mrs. Aimee Lett-Haines Dr. and Mrs. Hilmar Koefod Miss Maud Lane Mr. Dwight Murphy Mrs. Joseph M. Northrop Nevada County Historical Society

State Capitol Historical Societ y, Olympia, Wasliington .Mr. and Mrs. Ferdinand Ferret Mr. and Mrs. Douglas Perliam Mr. and Mrs. Russell Ruiz Mrs. Ruth Dodson Schriber Mrs. Georgiana Lacy Spalding Mrs. Hope Tryce Tulare Historical Society Mrs. .Marguerite Eyer Wilbur Mr. Oscar Williamson

NEW MEMBERS ACTIVE Mr. Harold S. Edwards, Jr. Mrs. Helen R. Goss Dr. and Mrs. Neville T. Ussher Mr. Arthur Wilker

SUSTAINING Mr. and Mrs. Hollister Jones

IN MEMORIAM Mr. Gerard Van B. Hale

Mrs. Charles E. Perkins. Sr.

NOriCIAS QUARTERLY BULLETIN OF THE SANTA BARBARA HISTORICAL SOCIETl OLD MISSION SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA