SANTA FEAN - DEC11/JAN12

Holiday Special

December / January 2012

high-end

ar t

santa fe’s thriving market

celebrate

the

67

gift ideas (shop local!)

season

PLUS making tracks with the santa fe southern railway

+

artists at work

ck Santa Fe ro ip h S in Jo se a le P Gallery Opening for Our Holiday , , - pm er b em ec D y, a d es Tu

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The Holiday Issue december 2011 / january 2012

features

Wendy McEahern

22 Gift Guide 2012 Our annual collection of holiday treasures, hand-picked from Santa Fe shops, features luxuries big and small—­for her, him, and the home.

30 Collectors’ Choice With works by old-world masters and local contemporary greats, Santa Fe’s fine-art scene lures connoisseurs from across the globe.

Find the perfect gift for family, friends, and yourself.

10 Publisher’s Note

departments

53 Living Novelist Douglas Preston’s “writer’s lair,” Andre Durand’s frescoes for your home

14 City Different Celebrating the life of Millicent Rogers, launching careers at the Red Dot Gallery

63 Dining Tomme, Tia’s Cocina, Agave Lounge, and more

16 Santa Favorites Decorations for the holidays

69 Hot Tickets

DOUGLAS MERRIAM

18 Santa Fe Institutions Christmas Eve on Canyon Road

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Big-name, big-ticket artists are an integral part of Santa Fe’s gallery scene.

38

38 Art Studio visits with Michael Scott, Aleta Pippin, and Susan York + gallery previews

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70 History The Santa Fe Southern Railway 72 Day Trip Pueblo dances

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Will MCPHERSON, GABRIELLA MARKS, LArry M. PHILLIPS

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GALLERY

December 2, 2011 January 6, 2012 Opening Reception Friday, December 2 5 - 7 pm

|

December / January 2012

high-end

ar t

santa fe’s thriving market

celebrate

the

67 gift ideas (shop local!)

season

PLUS making trackS with the Santa fe SoUthern raiLway

+

artiStS at work

ON THE COVER Lynn Boggess, 08 March 2010, oil on canvas, 40 x 34". To see more of Boggess’s work, visit Evoke Contemporary (evokecontemporary.com).

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As we step into this issue, we begin the 40th year of the Santa Fean. The magazine was founded in December 1972 by Betty Bauer and Marion Love, and not a day goes by that I don’t think of the vision those two ladies had for both this publication and our town. If either of them were alive today, they’d have a few pointed comments for me and our city leaders. If you knew Betty and Marion, you know what I’m talking about. They were tough critics because they loved this magazine and this town so much. As we step into 2012, we will continue to be mindful of their vision.

One thing I don’t believe even Betty and Marion could have predicted is how Santa Fe has grown from a sleepy little art colony to one of the largest art markets in the United States, with significant and historical pieces of art moving through our galleries. Many of these pieces were created by major European masters and command six-figure prices and beyond. The Santa Fean is now distributed at major art shows throughout the country as we share the quality of our art with national and international collectors. You’ll read about Santa Fe’s art-world prominence in this issue.

While I love the international recognition that Santa Fe has earned, I still appreciate the many charming qualities that make our community unique, especially during the holidays. The smell of sweet piñon burning in fireplaces, the sight of glowing farolitos along Canyon Road on Christmas Eve, the joy of watching a traditional Native American dance; you just don’t find these things anywhere else.

I encourage you, too, to savor our special Santa Fe traditions while acknowledging our place in today’s competitive art world. And while you’re acknowledging, please join me in saluting the incredible members of the Santa Fean staff, who work so hard to put each issue into your hands. I’d also like to thank our advertisers and you, our readers, for inviting the Santa Fean into your homes.

Wishing you a blessed holiday season,

BRUCE ADAMS

Publisher

DAVID RUBIN

Our 40th Anniversary Issue

publisher’s note

In this issue, we are featuring Vueteligent. By scanning this symbol with your smartphone, you will immediately be connected to Santa Fe’s best online calendar and our website.

| C ONTRIBUTORS | Q: What are you looking forward to most in 2012?

“A new beginning!” says photographer Douglas Merriam, who shoots each issue’s Dining section and other special assignments. “2012 is being hailed as ‘a year of change,’ so I’m looking forward to welcoming the New Year with open arms. I’m working on a couple of new photo-related projects, I’m teaching some more photo workshops, and I’m planning some travel with my wife and daughter. Also, two books that I photographed are due out in 2012. It should be a great year.”

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Zélie Pollon, who wrote about Santa Fe’s annual Christmas Eve Farolito Walk along Canyon Road, says: “In 2012, I most look forward to staying in Santa Fe with my wonderful son and enjoying the passing seasons. I travel extensively, and increasingly I’ve found myself more eager to come home.

The more I see of other shores, the more I realize how unique and special New Mexico is, and how fortunate we are to call this place home.”

“I really think there have been so many prophecies and predictions over the centuries about this particular year that will hold true in the coming months,” says Katherine Maxwell, who styled the annual gift guide found in this issue. “I am looking forward to seeing how that manifests in a positive way. Trust peace!”

LYNN BOGGESS LANDSCAPES

22 March 2011 | oil on canvas, 46 x 40

02 December 5 – 7 pm | opening reception friday evening through December 31 2011

EvokeContemporary.com

Santa Fean 2/3 PAGE VERT 5.1875” x 9.75” (Non-Bleed, Please print border)

bruce adams

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santafean@pcspublink.com Copyright 2011. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. CPM#40065056 Santa Fean (ISSN 1094-1487) is published bimonthly by Bella Media, LLC, 215 W San Francisco Street, Suite 300, Santa Fe, NM 87501. Periodicals postage paid at Santa Fe, NM, and additional mailing offices.

Postmaster: Send address changes to Santa Fean P.O. Box 469089, Escondido, CA 92046-9710. santafean.com

december 2011 /january 2012

Photography by Wendy McEahern

Please come visit us at our new retail showroom and design studios located in Historic downtown Santa Fe. Convenient parking is located in rear of the building.

405 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.983.3912 | www.vrinteriors.com

snowy diversions If you're headed for Ski Santa Fe this winter, check out Richard's Run. The new black-diamond trail is named for Richard Abruzzo, the world-renowned balloonist (and Ski Santa Fe co-owner) who died in 2010. Accessible from Highline, Richard's Run wends its way through a gladed, double-black-diamond area before crossing over Sunset Trail. It sounds like a challenge­—which would doubtless have pleased its namesake.

For family fun that's a little less demanding, visit Taos Ski Valley for some holiday tubing. Strawberry Hill welcomes tubers from Wednesday, December 21, through Saturday, December 31­. Cash-only tickets are $8 per person and include tube rental. Call Taos Ski Valley at 575-776-2291 for more information.

MOUNTAIN SPORTS

the buzz around town

Richard Abruzzo, 2004

millicent the magnificent BOOKS A new biography of globetrotting socialite and Taos legend Millicent Rogers (1902–1953) explores the trailblazing life of the Standard Oil heiress. Written by Cherie Burns, herself a Taos resident, Searching for Beauty (St. Martin’s Press, $28) recounts how Rogers shunned the conventions of her day, eloping with a penniless aristocrat, whooping it up in European nightclubs, divorcing and remarrying, and carrying on high-profile romances with writer Roald Dahl and movie star Clark Gable. Rogers’s individuality landed her in the pages of Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and it also led her to Taos, where she adopted and popularized the Southwest look. Taos “was the place where [Rogers’s] longing for life and pursuit of beauty converged—and seemed to be satisfied,” Burns writes. Indeed, in a 1949 letter to her friend Frieda Lawrence, Rogers said of her adoptive home: “I feel so much ‘of it.’ . . . I feel so drawn to return when I’m away and so restless with the rest of the world because of it.”

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GALLERIES Open since July, Red Dot Gallery (red-dot-gallery.com), on Canyon Road, is a 2,000-square-foot showcase for art by Santa Fe Community College students, alumni, faculty, and staff. Through internship and practicum programs, it also serves as a real-world classroom: business students, working with the New Mexico Small Business Development Center, created the business plan; gallery management students assist with daily operations; media arts students help design marketing materials; and even culinary-arts students get in on the action, preparing food for special events. Red Dot’s space—in an old adobe building—was donated by Sandy Zane of Zane Bennett Contemporary Art, who first proposed the idea of a college-run gallery. “I feel it’s very important to educate,” says Zane. As for the art?

“I believe the quality of work speaks for itself.”­—Samantha Schwirck

George Rubottom; Jay Blackwood; courtesy Millicent Rogers Museum

art for art students’ sake

| S A N TA FA V O R I T E S |

cool yule

w he r e to s hop f or de cking your halls t hi s Chri st ma s

by Eve Tolpa photo graph y by Gabri ella Ma r k s

One of the best gifts you can give this Christmas is the gift of supporting the local economy. It’s important all year, but it’s especially so during the holidays, when seasonal artists are given their big chance to shine. Fortunately, Santa Fe is home to a variety of shops where you can pick up decorations and ornaments handcrafted by New Mexico artists, as well as stores that allow you to think globally and act locally.

To call the selection at Susan’s Christmas Shop (115 E Palace, susanschristmasshop.com) mind-boggling is an understatement. Susan Topp Weber, owner of the 33-year-old eponymous emporium, carries the work of some 100 artists—one third of whom are from New Mexico—in a space comprising less than 200 square feet. Check out the adorable multi-hued miniature hot air balloons and local artist Leah Kostoplos’s sweet felt-doll ornaments. The most popular items are the Santa Chiles: dried Hatch beauties painted with the face of St. Nick and designed by Weber’s daughter, Melissa. “Others copy her,” Weber says, “but people tell us hers are the best.”

The Shop: A Christmas Store (116 E Palace, theshopchristmas.com) opened its doors in 1977 and has been owned by Rick and Janice Griego since 2002. Inside, 10 Christmas trees are laden with ornaments—created by 30 or so New Mexico artists who work in traditional materials like tin, clay, and wood—including pieces by Jill Gurule, a ceramicist from Alameda whose work has been sold here exclusively for 28 years. Don’t miss The Shop’s huge and eclectic collection of lights, which ranges from retro Star Wars strands and giant glittery globes to clusters of chiles, horses, and cowboy boots.

Step into the cornucopia of color that is the Museum of International Folk Art Gift Shop (706 Camino Lejo, internationalfolkart.org) and prepare to be dazzled by more than 20 countries’ worth of items, all of which are fair-trade and, according to manager Linda Troynak, many of which are available year-round. From Polish and Hungarian felted wool ornaments and hand-painted tin animals made in Zimbabwe to Russian matryoshka dolls and nativities from El Salvador, this spot is brimming with celebratory bits and bobs both cosmopolitan and homey. Shiny foil papel picado (pierced paper) garlands from Mexico make a special yuletide appearance, featuring festive cutouts of poinsettias and Christmas trees.

The New Mexico History Museum Spiegelberg Shop (113 Lincoln, nmhistorymuseum .org) has strict criteria when it comes to the items it carries. Sara Birmingham, buyer Brightly colored decorations culled from around the world line the shelves of the Museum of International Folk Art Gift Shop (above), while local lore and culture are given a festive flair at Susan’s Christmas Shop (below, left and right).

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Clockwise from top left: Rosy-cheeked Santas are hard to resist at the Museum of International Folk Art Gift Shop; the less-than-200-square-feet of Susan’s Christmas Shop is brimming with holiday gear designed by roughly 100 artists—a third of whom are based in New Mexico; The Shop: A Christmas Store also sells wares made by New Mexico artisans who work in traditional materials such as clay and wood; the IAIA Museum Store carries vibrant, Native American–made decorations such as Anasazi Spirit Horses.

for all the Museum Foundation shops, stresses that the pieces she selects must be handcrafted in New Mexico, “not just assembled with parts from other places.” Case in point: the rustic Spanish colonial ornaments made by tin worker Bobby Garcia, who received a special dispensation from the archdiocese to use materials from the old roof at the Santuario de Chimayó. Also of note are the brightly painted Navajo animals carved from native cottonwood roots and artist Richard Solomon’s gorgeous, ethereal Seed Orbs.

While the celebration of Christmas is not inherent to Native American culture, there is plenty at the IAIA Museum Store (108 Cathedral Place, iaia.edu/museum/store) to expand your definition of decking the halls. Take, for example, the soft, leather, handmade baby moccasins or the dolls created by Mary Jo Big Day (Crow) and Laura Walkingstick (Cherokee). “As far as I know we’re the only place that has these,” store manager Laura Ellerby says, pointing to Walkingstick’s work. Of course, you can find fabulous Southwestern stuff as well, like Anasazi Spirit Horses by James Peter Ray (Diné). And, lest the halls be the only things decked out this season, through much of December the store is hosting its third annual holiday jewelry exhibition, Indigenous Bling, featuring finery from five New Mexico contemporary Native artists. december 2011 /january 2012

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| S a n ta F e I n s t i t u t i o n s |

farolito walk

a holiday tradition to light your way

by Z é l i e Pol lon

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Bonfires (below) and farolitos (above) illuminate Canyon Road on Christmas Eve.

Pilar Law, CHRIS CORRIE

There are few more picturesque scenes in Santa Fe—a town already full of captivating images—than its sinewy Eastside streets lit by thousands of small paper bags filled with sand and votive candles during the annual Farolito Walk, held on Christmas Eve. Beginning at dusk, the paths of light found along gallery walls, curving sidewalks, private gardens, and public courtyards lead evening farers down the main streets of Canyon Road and Acequia Madre, through cozy alleyways and meandering side streets, revealing along the journey beautiful bonfires, stands of hot cocoa and cider, and groups of carolers (sometimes strangers, all) sharing in the holiday spirit. The Walk, as it’s often called, remains one of Santa Fe’s most inclusive and family-friendly holiday events, bringing together every segment of the community to share in the wonder of light and cheer.

From its humble beginnings in the late 1970s, when Eastside residents took to the streets to celebrate the successful rezoning of their neighborhood, the local tradition has gone on to see its attendance swell, drawing more than 30,000 participants to last year’s event. People in the crowds, using each other to stay warm in the crisp night air, slowly move en masse down the streets as part of an experience that, for a moment, draws us away from the consumerism often threatening to overtake this time of year.

The Walk reminds us that beauty comes in the simplest of packages, and that gifts can be as unexpected as the offering of a hot beverage from a stranger just when you need it most.

Even in this delicately lit constellation of Santa Fe streets, there are sights not to miss.

At the Acequia Madre Elementary School, Avo Thompson launches flying farolitos—a fiery spectacle that draws crowds of delighted children. On Plaza Fatima, an offshoot of Delgado Street, an elaborate toy train lures revelers with its unexpected, high-pitched “choo” as it winds its way around a track in the center of the compound.

When attending the Walk, it’s important to remember that all nonresident vehicular traffic is limited and must leave the Canyon Road area by 5 pm. Dress warmly, and be sure to wear your most comfortable walking shoes.

2011-2012 W I N T E R S E A S O N

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Sa n t a Fe a n’s

IFT GUIDE

St y l ing by K at he r i n e Ma x well

Photo g ra p hy by We ndy Mc Ea he r n

A few of our favorite things, just in time for the holidays

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Bronze vessels with gold oxidized finish by Michael Aram, $85–$199, at Packards on the Plaza Freshwater pearl necklace with sterling silver and copper pendant

by Jhane Myers-NoiseCat (Comanche/Blackfeet), $400, at Case Trading Post at the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian

Aquamarine and 18- and 22-karat gold necklace by Hal Hiestand, $4,850, at Packards on the Plaza Metal sea urchin bowl with glass insert, $36, at Poem

Necklace and rings with interchangeable components in gold, stainless steel, ceramic, diamonds, and citrine, $410–$6,955, at Charlotte

Carousel ring with star quartz and champagne diamonds, $5,840, at Golden Eye

Necklace of pink rose-cut sapphires and 22-karat gold, $14,700, at Golden Eye

Bangle bracelets in 23-karat gold, $13,800–$4,200, at Golden Eye

Antique sterling silver bead necklace ($815) and multi-stone sterling silver pendant ($750), at Rocki Gorman december 2011 /january 2012

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IFTS For

Him

Leather jacket by Parajumpers, $1,555, at Alpine Sports Leather Head football, $145, at Rippel and Company

New and used audiophile record albums, from $5, The Guy in the Groove at Constellation Home Electronics

Sterling silver and 14-karat gold buckle with ostrich belt, $1,880, at James Reid, Ltd.

Shearling-lined leather boots

by Johnston & Murphy, $176, at Goler Fine Imported Shoes

Kiehl’s Facial Fuel skincare products for men, $9–$38, at Wink Baby alpaca scarves, from $39, at Peruvian Connection G-Money sunglasses

by Chrome Hearts, $1,100, at Optical Shop of Aspen

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Ibiza sport coat ($405) over a striped shirt by Equilibrio ($175) with Alberto jeans ($249), at Corsini

West Slope hat in chocolate with hand-tooled leather band

by Brad Martin, $1,525, at O’Farrell Hat Company

Bolo tie in sterling silver, turquoise, and leather by Arland Ben, $3,750, at Packards on the Plaza

Sterling silver and stone-inlay buckle with hornback alligator belt, $1,875, at Tom Taylor Company

Hooded bathrobe

by Missoni, $295, at Pandora’s

Vintage seven-piece bar set, $65, at Rippel and Company

Mahogany table cigar cutter, $59, at The Cigar Shop

Alligator wallet by John Allen Woodward, $600, at Rippel and Company

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IFTS

Rayon and nylon sweater by PĂŠte, $70, at Bodhi Bazaar

For

HER

Velvet moonlight frock in sapphire ($375) and organza dream slip in azure ($225), at Homefrocks

Penda shoes by Donald J. Pliner, $423, at Goler Fine Imported Shoes

Baby alpaca cardigan, $159, at Peruvian Connection

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Scented Om candle in a handcrafted vessel, $34, at Bodhi Bazaar

Lace-trimmed silk chemise ($98) and leopard-print satin eye mask ($10), at Underpinnings

Black cotton shirt with gathered bustle, $245, at Cicada Collection Leather cross-body bag with sterling silver, fire agate, and brass, by Lou Guerin, $2,450, at Rippel and Company

Bedford leather driving gloves, $149, at Peruvian Connection West Slope hat in royal blue with beadwork by Charlie Hunt, $1,275, at O’Farrell Hat Company

Elements silk organza scarf, $400, at Norma Sharon

Kiehl’s Creme de Corps moisturizer ($11–$49) and Soy Milk & Honey Whipped Body Butter ($36), at Wink

Lamb shearling vest ($1,680) and boots ($1,170) by Henri Beguelin, at Desert Son of Santa Fe

Sterling silver charm bracelet, $985, at James Reid, Ltd.

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IFTS

For the

HOME

Flower Power silk shams ($221) with feather inserts ($60), at Night and Day by ACC

Silk blankets in red and ocean, $650, at Night and Day by ACC

Exotic bulk teas, from $4 per pound, at The Teahouse

18-year-aged balsamic vinegar ($20) and butternut squash seed oil ($18), at Oleaceae

Crystal candleholders ($130–­$156) and paperweight ($41), at ACC

Antique cast-iron mercantile scale, $180, at Rippel and Company

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Heritage Pebble bowl ($115) and vase ($140), both with bronze finish, at Nambé

Flux chair ($199) and cushion ($65), at Molecule Furniture & Design

For a complete list of resources, turn to page 50

Decorative Eiffel Tower with lights, $365, at Poem

Sonos Wireless Music System, controlled by any PC, Mac, iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch, or Droid, from $349, at Constellation Home Electronics

Scarlet bowl in porcelain and 22-karat gold leaf, $3,400, at Heidi Loewen Porcelain Gallery & School

Missoni hand and bath towels, $26–$57, at Pandora’s Honey-almond soaps ($20) and glass dish ($9), at Wink

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collectors’ choice

market report

by Eve Tolpa photography by Douglas Merriam

Santa Fe’s fine-art offerings continue to dazzle at galleries old and new

Lawrence Matthews sPENDS HIS DAYS surrounded by works by world-renowned masters like Miró, Chagall, Modigliani, and Toulouse-Lautrec. And he doesn’t live in New York or Paris; he’s right here in Santa Fe. Matthews is the owner and director of Matthews Gallery, one of a growing number of establishments in Santa Fe that deals in what some might all “higher end” art­—pieces valued at $50,000 and above. Matthews estimates that 15 to 20 percent of the art sold in town falls into that price range. Santa Fe, he says, is “not only thought of by collectors as a place where they can see work by regional artists, but [as a place where] they are able to see museum-quality work by really significant artists.”

David Eichholtz of David Richard Contemporary, a downtown gallery specializing in post-war American abstraction, agrees. “It’s not just historic, regional art that’s selling here,” he says. “We have fine art galleries that sell works by nationally and internationally known artists to national and international clients . . . Santa Fe has a vibrant fine art scene.”

Lawrence Matthews, of Matthews Gallery on Canyon Road, is one of many Santa Fe gallerists who deals in works by internationally recognized masters.

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“Santa Fe has a vibrant fine-art scene,” says David Eichholtz of David Richard Contemporary.

“We have galleries that sell works by nationally and internationally known artists.”

Top, left to right: Amedeo Modigliani, Portrait de Sola (ca. 1918/1919), graphite, 17 x 10", at Matthews Gallery; Mark di Suvero, Titanium Landscape (2002), stainless steel, steel, and titanium, 19 x 37 x 32", at Zane Bennett Contemporary Art; bottom, left and right: Matthews Gallery on Canyon Road exudes Santa Fe charm inside and out.

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market report

Top: The Gerald Peters Gallery occupies a striking Pueblo-style building on Paseo de Peralta; middle, numerous acclaimed works are stored in one of the high-ceilinged inventory rooms at the Gerald Peters Gallery; bottom: one of the homey, salon-like sitting areas at Alan Barnes Fine Art.

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There is an important market in Santa Fe for new works by well-established and blue-chip artists—those with auction records reflecting a strong demand for their art. Judy Chicago and Julian Stanczak are among the artists showing at David Richard Contemporary, for example, while Peyton Wright Gallery represents the estates of several modernists, including Bauhaus legend Herbert Bayer. Many of the nationally acclaimed artists who live and work here exhibit at Santa Fe galleries too: locals Forrest Moses, the expressionistic landscape painter, and figurative sculptor Glenna Goodacre show at LewAllen Galleries and Nedra Matteucci Galleries, respectively, and abstract painter Ronald Davis, who lives in Arroyo Hondo, exhibits with Charlotte Jackson Fine Art. The secondary art market—which comprises works that come not from the artists or their estates but through other collectors or collectors’ estates—is even bigger in Santa Fe. Pieces by modern European masters, like those at Matthews Gallery, fall into this category, as does art by New Mexico–based heavy hitters Richard Tuttle, Bruce Nauman, and John McCracken. Secondary-market works by modern and contemporary masters can be found here as well: pieces by Francis Bacon and Jim Dine are currently available at Zane Bennett Contemporary Art, and works by Armand Arman, Milton Avery, and Helen Frankenthaler can be found at the Riva Yares Gallery.

Gallerists Nedra Matteucci and Gerald Peters, both of whom founded businesses in Santa Fe 1972, were instrumental in establishing Santa Fe as an internationally known destination for high-end art.. In the beginning, their collections of early-20th-century works by members of the Taos Society of Artists helped secure their place—and Santa Fe’s place—in the art world. Today Gerald Peters Gallery carries art spanning various eras and genres, including pieces by Taos artists Victor Higgins and Ernest Blumenschein as well as Western painters Frederic Remington and Peter Hurd. The gallery has also placed more than 200 pieces of Georgia O’Keeffe’s work. Peters reports that business is thriving, with the bulk of his clientele located outside of Santa Fe. Nedra Matteucci Galleries has been dealing in work by the Taos Society of Artists and their contemporaries—such as Russian painters Nicolai Fechin and Leon Gaspard—since the gallery’s inception, and this work has continued to increase in value. Then, too, a second tier of work that includes artists like Will Shuster and Fremont Ellis has also been on the rise. The gallery’s secondary-

“Whether you are looking for something for $15,000 or $5 million, you can find it in Santa Fe,” says Alan Barnes of Alan Barnes Fine Art.

Clockwise from top left: Forrest Moses, New Hampshire Highland Stream (1988), oil on canvas, 48 x 66", at LewAllen Galleries; Robert Motherwell, Art 1981 Chicago Print (1981), lithograph, 34 x 25", at Zane Bennett Contemporary Art; one of the spacious rooms at Gerald Peters Gallery, with Marc Sijan’s Kneeling (polyester resin and oil paint, 26 x 26 x 18") in the foreground.

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market report market offerings are by no means exclusively historical or Western-themed, but these genres do provide the backbone of the collection, and they have an enduring appeal. “Lately we’ve noticed a new, younger collector here,” says gallery director Dustin Belyeu. “That trend emerged over the last seven or eight years. They specifically want to visit certain galleries to find art of a certain quality.”

“For a long time, it was all about the region,” says Matthews. “Then the world began coming to Santa Fe to see the art, and some of the dealers

Clockwise from left: A gallery assistant rearranges work at Alan Barnes Fine Art; Frederick Morgan’s A Father’s Return (1875), oil on canvas, 52 x 34", at Alan Barnes Fine Art; Leon Gaspard, Russian Market Square (1922), oil on fabric on board, 9 x 17", at Nedra Matteucci Galleries.

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Located on Highway 475, 16 miles from Santa Fe- the ‘City Different’ in the beautiful Santa Fe National Forest.

Fean Ad.indd december 1 36 11803 Santa santafean.com 2011 /january 2012

7 Lifts 74 Trails Terrain Park Snowsports School Childrens Center ski area 505.982.4429 snow report 505.983.9155 11/1/11 2:49 PM

began to realize that there was an opportunity for showing a wider variety of art and artists. There are a number of galleries here that show work by the Taos artists and Santa Fe painters, but a number of those artists were European and a lot were influenced by modernist work in Europe.”

At Matthews Gallery, he says, “We try to show a continuity between the work of European artists from the 19th and 20th centuries, and viewers can connect the dots to what has been done by Santa Fe and Taos artists as well.”

That continuity accounts for Matthews having carried pieces by American modernists like John Marin, a member of the Stieglitz Circle who spent summers in New Mexico. Similarly, the living artists whose work Matthews shows “have a relationship to and understanding of those whose shoulders they’re standing on.”

Matthews’s client base is broad in geographic scope; he works with people in Norway, Tokyo, and the Middle East. “But,” he clarifies, “most of the collectors we work with we’ve met in person, and most have been to Santa Fe.” Given that his clientele will go wherever necessary to track down the pieces they want, what does Matthews see as the benefit of having his business based here? “Santa Fe has advantages over New York, Los Angeles, or Chicago in the charm of the city itself,” he says. “Also, the city is relatively easy to get around. As far as the higher-end galleries go, collectors can visit all of those fairly easily, like in a day or two.”

Alan Barnes of Alan Barnes Fine Art also deals primarily in European work, both historical and contemporary. “The Parisian and Irish school is a very solid market within [the $50,000-and-up] price range,” he says, citing work by Édouard Leon Cortès, Eugene Galien-Laloue, John Kingerlee, John Lavery, and Alfred Munnings.

Like Matthews, Barnes finds that the City Different’s other assets—the skiing, the restaurants—exert a pull on art lovers and collectors. When the British-born art dealer left Dallas a little more than a year ago, he considered several cities in the country where markets have been historically strong. But, he says, he simply preferred the lifestyle here.

According to Barnes, the current economy offers prime opportunities for collectors, especially in Santa Fe, where the scope of work available has never been bigger. “The level of quality is in Santa Fe,” he says. “It’s not purely Southwest; it’s growing. That can’t be ignored.

Whether you are looking for something for $15,000 or $5 million, you can find it here.”

art

openings | reviews | people

With mark-making delicate and deliberate and compositions classically balanced and serene, Tom Perkinson’s atmospheric watercolor and pastel landscapes deftly depict the dramatic light of the high desert. In Manitou Galleries’ Holiday Small Works Show (December 2–16, reception December 2, 5–7:30 pm, 123 W Palace, 505-986-0440, manitougalleries.com) small pieces by Perkinson (a full-time painter since 1970 with work represented in the Museum of New Mexico) and other gallery artists are accompanied by seasonal festivities: live music, hot cider, and farolitos.—Eve Tolpa

Tom Perkinson, Rising Moon In Winter, watercolor mixed media, 7 x 7"

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Clark Hulings (1922– 2011)

Petit Marché au Fleur

1994 oil on canvas 20 x 30 inches

Nedra Matteucci Galleries 1075 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 • tel 505-982-4631 • fax 505-984-0199 • www.matteucci.com

217 JOHNSON STREET, SANTA FE 505.946.1000 • OKMUSEUM.ORG OPEN DAILY 10 AM – 5 PM OPEN LATE, UNTIL 7 PM FRIDAY FREE 5 – 7 PM FIRST FRIDAY OF EACH MONTH

LEFT: Georgia O’Keeffe, Kokopelli with Snow, 1942. Oil on

board, 15 1/8 x 10 inches. Gift of The Burnett Foundation and The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation. ©Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

RIGHT: Georgia O’Keeffe, Calla Lilies on Red, 1928. Oil on

canvas, 32 1/8 x 17 1/8 inches. Gift of Anne Windfohr Marion. ©Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.

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art

studios

where it all happens

t hr ee lo cal a r t i st s show u s how t he y wor k

by Sa ma n t h a Sch w i rck photo graph y by Wi ll McPh e rs on

“I

t’s kind of like an oceangoing ship turned upside down, sailing toward the Galisteo Basin,” painter Michael Scott says of his 2,000-squarefoot studio in Lamy. Scott worked with local sculptor and builder Mike Sharber to construct the space in 2001, and now Scott— accompanied by his dogs Shadow, a border collie, and Bullet, a German wirehaired pointer—paints here nearly every day. He listens to music (classical, blues, electronic) as he creates his painterly, highly stylized visions, which most recently have incorporated rescue dogs. “I’m a narrative storyteller, so a narrative painter,” he says. Scott is represented by Gerald Peters Gallery in Santa Fe. His latest project, a collection of paintings he calls The Doggie Diaries, can be seen at Gerald Peters Gallery in New York in January and February, just in time for the Westminster Dog Show.

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A

leta Pippin, owner of Pippin Contemporary on Lincoln Avenue and co-owner of Pippin Meikle on Delgado Street, uses oils and acylics in vibrant hues to produce her unique style of abstract expressionism. “My work is all about color,” she says. “My goal is to be joyful.” Pippin began her painting career in 1992, soon after abandoning Houston for “the weather, the starkness, and the health” of Santa Fe. She’s painted in various spaces over the years, but Pippin finds her current Fifth Street studio, which she’s occupied since 2010, just right. The roomy space has just one wall, splitting it into a workspace and a “resin room,” where large epoxy resin paintings are protected from dirt and damage. “I notice that every time I move, my artwork takes on another aspect,” she says. “It seems as if there has been a continual expansion of my vision and desire.”

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art

studioS

T

hough graphite is usually a drawing material, Susan York uses it for sculpting as well. “We sculptors kind of go back and forth between three-dimensional things that we’ve made and placing them within a two dimensional framework,” says the Albuquerque native, who shows at James Kelly Contemporary. York moved to her current studio—a 1,500-square-foot warehouse in Santa Fe—in 2009.

She built a wall to divide it into two spaces, one for drawing, and a larger one for her minimalistic threedimensional pieces. Not suprisingly, given the obvious focus and precision in her work, York prefers creating in her studio without distractions. “Not too many people work in silence,” she says. “There are a couple of bands that practice next door to me, so if they’re practicing, I wear headphones to drown it out.”

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art

Opening Weekend March 23-25, 2012

PREVIEWS

Only at the Tom Noble, Winter, watercolor, 26 x 26"

Tom Noble: Somewhere in Time, Ventana Fine Art 400 Canyon, 505-983-8815, ventanafineart.com December 10–31, reception December 10, 5–7 pm This solo exhibition features new watercolors by Taos artist Tom Noble, a recent recipient of the New Mexico Governor’s Award for Excellence in Art. Noble’s studied naïve style and crayon-box colors reflect the rich culture and drama of the area’s rugged landscape and way of life.—Elizabeth Lake

Arizona’s Most Western Museum

Lynn Boggess, 22 April 2011, oil on canvas, 46 x 40"

Lynn Boggess: Sense of Place EVOKE Contemporary, 130 Lincoln 505-995-9902, evokecontemporary.com December 2–31, reception December 2, 5–7 pm New oil landscapes by Lynn Boggess, made with cement trowels instead of brushes, demonstrate the West Virginia artist’s knack for conveying the dynamism and warmth of nature—as well as for inspiring awe and contemplation—with his trademark plein-air technique. Boggess has said that painting outdoors is key to his capturing a “sense of place and time” and, indeed, his paintings are so strikingly real and familiar that, as a viewer, it’s easy to feel that you’re part of the landscape he’s depicting.—Amy Hegarty

Exhibition & Sales runs through May 6, 2012 Scott MacLaren, Arroyo Reflection, archival ink-jet print, 12 x 12"

Victoria Taylor-Gore, Sky Through the Window, pastel, 11 x 15"

Pedro Surroca + Scott MacLaren: Relationships: Earth & Sky Arroyo, 200 Canyon, 505-988-1002, arroyosantafe.com December 2–January 4, reception December 2, 5–7 pm Painter Pedro Surroca uses formal techniques to depict contemporary subject matter, while photographer Scott MacLaren’s approach to digital photography is bereft of technical manipulation. In this joint show, the artists display classic landscapes that are at once complementary and independent, both in format and subject matter.—Samantha Schwirck

Victoria Taylor-Gore + Daniel Bayless: Colors of Our Life, Alexandra Stevens Gallery of Fine Art, 820 Canyon 505-988-1311, alexandrastevens.com, December 24–January 31, reception December 24, 5:30–7:30 pm Victoria Taylor-Gore’s mysterious pastels of deconstructed suburban architecture and landscapes hold the voyeur’s eye—be it to comprehend the distorted plains and graphic forms of her sparse vignettes crafted by buttery transitions of bold color, or to grasp the otherworldly mood emanating from the seemingly simple content. From a Wolf-Kahn-meets-Hopper oeuvre, Daniel Bayless’s precious oils hark back to 19th-century impressionist sensibilities in both content and study of light.—EL

Our Participating Artists Maura Allen • Elizabeth Black Amery Bohling • Trish Booth • Sophy Brown • Shawn Cameron Kim Casebeer • Nancy Dunlop Cawdrey • Anne Coe • Karen Cooper • Harriet “Rox” Corbett • Sheila Cottrell • Lisa Danielle Judith Durr • Teresa Elliott • Joni Falk • Carrie Fell • Deborah Copenhaver Fellows • Jenny Forge-Schmalstieg • Alyce Frank Linda Glover Gooch • Veryl Goodnight • Ann Hanson • Sherry Harrington • Christina Holmes • Susan Kliewer • Laura Koller Sue Krzyston • Laurie J. Lee • Linda Loeschen • Jan Mapes Sharon Markwardt • Pat Mathiesen • Louisa McElwain • Jan Martin McGuire • Ann McLeod • Krystii Melaine • Vel Miller Marcia Molnar • Judith Moore-Knapp • Gayle Nason • Darcie Peet • Deb Penk • Martha Pettigrew • Cynthia Rigden • Amy Ringholz • Linda St. Clair • Sherry Salari Sander • M. Haynes Scott • S. J. Shaffer • Sharon Standridge • Kathryn Stats Sherry Blanchard Stuart • Gail Jones Sundell • Teri Sweeney Carol Swinney • V…. Vaughan • Liz Wolf

21 North Frontier Street Wickenburg, Arizona 85390 928.684.2272 westernmuseum.org © 2011 DCWM

Madina Croce, Evening Hollyhocks, oil on canvas, 30 x 15"

Red Dot Gallery

December 2nd, 2011

WinterNite Party

December 3rd, 2011

Winter Spanish Market Santa Fe Holiday Homes Tour® December 4th, 2011

Winter Spanish Market Traditional English Christmas Tea

23rd Annual

Winter Spanish Market

Weekend At the Santa Fe Community

Convention Center

www.spanishcolonial.org ~ 505-982-2226

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If Past Is Prologue Canyon Road Contemporary Art, 403 Canyon 505-983-0433, crcainc.com December 23–January 7 reception December 23, 5–7 pm The gallery celebrates its 100-year anniversary with a group show comprising 17 artists and introducing emerging local painters Pablo Perea and Madina Croce. The work of Cuban-American Perea nods toward Escher as it chronicles the multifaceted experience of immigration via slightly surrealistic portraits of one woman, while self-taught impressionist Croce employs vibrant colors to capture the “emotional essence” of landscapes.—ET

Eric W. Gibberd, Sangre de Cristos #2, oil on masonite, 16 x 32"

Sacred Mountain: Modernist Portraits of Taos Mountain, 1920–1970 William R. Talbot Fine Art, Antique Maps & Prints 129 W San Francisco 505-982-1559, williamtalbot.com December 2–January 14 This diverse collection of work spans the last two centuries and features iconic Taos Mountain as its subject matter. Spiritual home to the Tiwa Tribe that built Taos Pueblo at the majestic mountain’s base, Taos Mountain was a major interest of a number of late-19th-century artists and the later modernist painters, inspiring a comprehensive body of work worth seeing.—EL

“Where Building Is Art” We Listen We Care An Award Winning Builder

Creativity – Quality – Meticulous Attention to Detail Custom Builder – Design/Build – Historic Restoration – Remodels Santa Fe, NM 505-982-9699 www.fabuwallous.com 3 New Natures Selby Fleetwood Gallery, 600 Canyon 505-992-8877, selbyfleetwoodgallery.com December 16–January 5, reception December 16, 5–7 pm Aaron Bushnell creates hazy landscapes with saturated hues and incongruously cheeky, pop-culture inflected titles (e.g., The Honey Badger Don’t Need No Pom Poms). M.F. Cardamone’s quirky, meticulously executed mixed-media pieces highlight individual species of flora, while the oil-on-canvas work of Adam Shaw blurs the “borders between objective representation and pure painting,” revealing the abstract elements inherent in natural forms.—ET

Aaron Bushnell, A Blue Bermuda, oil on board, 6 x 9"

David Robin, Fountain, Versailles, archival pigment ink print, 16 x 20"

Photo Archives Fundraiser Verve Gallery of Photography, 219 E Marcy 505-982-5009, vervegallery.com January 20–February 18, reception January 20, 5–7 pm Four photographers join forces to benefit the Photo Archives at the Palace of the Governors/New Mexico History Museum: Herbert A. Lotz, Jane Phillips, and Genevieve Russell, showing specially commissioned portraits of donors (in addition to selections from their own series), and master printer David Robin, who works in fashion and advertising as well as fine art, displaying his stunning black-and-white images.—ET december 2011 /january 2012

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SPECIAL ADVERTiSING SECTION

Mark White Fine Art

Join us here in Mark’s calming, meditative, kinetic garden to experience bliss.

These wind-driven sculptures welcome you through to his gallery. Inside, you will find his exquisitely patinaed, engraved metal canvases and bronzes.

We look forward to your visit.

414 Canyon, 505-982-2073, markwhitefineart.com

Pablo Milan Gallery

Pablo Milan, Autumn in Santa Fe, print/clay tablet, 12 x 16"

Featuring Estamparcillas de Milan handcrafted clay tablets, which are hand-cut, fired, then printed with the paintings of Pablo Antonio Milan, a contemporary New Mexico artist. Milan is a highly recognized artist, renowned for his use of color and painting techniques. The clay tablets come in a variety of sizes, with the larger tablets in limited editions. Come by the gallery to see a wide selection of the clay tablets or visit the Estamparcillas website.

the

209 Galisteo Street, 505-820-1285, pablomilangallery.com estamparcillas.com

gallery ART SHOWCASE

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian Necklace from Santo Domingo Pueblo, circa 1935, turquoise, gypsum, and plastic

The Wheelwright Museum celebrates a popular New Mexican folk art tradition with Thunderbird Jewelry of Santo Domingo Pueblo, through April 15, 2012. Featuring more than 300 whimsical, innovative creations made from found materials, circa 1920s–1950s.

Museum Hill, 704 Camino Lejo, 505-982-4636, wheelwright.org

Green River Pottery

A ceramics gallery and studio featuring stoneware for the collector and for everyday use—quiet beauty, crafted with local clays and glazes. Large-scale forms by Theo Helmstadter. Two-hour private sessions for beginners and advanced students, kids, and adults, scheduled day or evening. Find us across from the Treehouse Café at the Lena Street Lofts.

1710 Lena, 505-795-7755, greenriverpottery.com 46

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december 2011 /january 2012

SPECIAL ADVERTiSING SECTION

InArt Gallery Winterowd Fine Art

Charlie Burk, Summer Path, oil on panel, 48 x 48"

Charlie Burk paints poetic portraits of our living earth. This beautiful series is of grasses fashioned in oil. Burk thoughtfully and seductively pulls the viewer close for a better look. The paintings are of imagined real places. Each has a sheer tactile beauty of surface. The grassy landscapes Burk creates in his paintings are rich, lyrical, and evocative places we want to be.

701 Canyon, 505-992-8878, fineartsantafe.com

Robert Livsey Wells, Flourish (Inspired by Moritz Eggert’s Number 9 VI: A Bigger Splash), oil on linen, 36 x 36"

Opening night reception Friday, November 25, 5–7 PM. Robert Livsey Wells will be featuring 16 new masterful paintings for his show Color Rhythms (November 25–December 25). Wells’s paintings are created through the emotions he experiences while listening to the expressive rhythms and scores of composers Claude Debussy, Manual de Falla, Takashi Yoshimatsu, Robert Simpson, Moritz Eggert, Jennifer Higdon, and others.

219 Delgado, 505-983-6537, inartsantafe.com

Buying or Selling Indian Art? Know the Law! Under the Indian Arts and Crafts Act, Native American art and craftwork must be marketed truthfully regarding the Native American heritage and Tribal affiliation of the producer.

Take Home a Treasure from Indian Country-Buy works produced by members of federally recognized Tribes.

For a free brochure on the Act, including how to file a complaint, please contact: U.S. Department of the Interior Indian Arts and Crafts Board Toll Free: 1-888-ART-FAKE or 1-888-278-3253 Email: iacb@ios.doi.gov Web: www.iacb.doi.gov Joan Hill, Muscogee Creek Nation, Sacred Ceremony of the Temple Mound, Painting, ©1989

december 2011 /january 2012

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

enchanted treasures

Packards on the Plaza Sterling silver sea urchin cross with Ethiopian opal & Brazilian aquamarine beads Shapes and textures of the earth evolve into exquisite jewelry under the hand of Miles Standish. The pattern of a leaf, the surface of a shell, the curve of a pebble are translated into cuff bracelets, pendants, and fabulous earrings. Select a piece of nature at Packard’s on the Plaza.

61 Old Santa Fe Trail, 800-648-7358 or 505-983-9241, shoppackards.com

La Mesa of Santa Fe Gregory Lomayesva, Stilettos A humorous, high style addition to the wonderful collection of carved wood figures and masks by this very creative and talented Hopi artist. A perfect, pain free gift for any shoe lover.

225 Canyon, 505-984-1688 lamesasf@gmail.com, lamesaofsantafe.com

Desert Son of Santa Fe Henry Beguelin Fall Collection at Desert Son of Santa Fe is all about new textures, soft tones, interesting neutrals, and great prints. The new boots, belts, and handbags are superb! Shearling vests and jackets have arrived!

725 Canyon, 505-982-9499, desertsonofsantafe.com

Tom Taylor Belts, Buckles and Accessories Sterling silver with walrus ivory, red coral, and turquoise buckle by 2011 Indian Market first place winner, Chis Pruitt.

Find this beautiful, handmade, one-of-a-kind buckle along with many more wonderful designs at Tom Taylor.

La Fonda on the Plaza, 108 E San Francisco, 505-984-2232 TomTaylorBuckles.com

Packards on the Plaza

Interchangeable jewelry. These black, high-tech ceramic rings from Germany can be interchanged by the customer to fit both mood and budget. Each can be worn as a ring or on a bracelet and pendant with matching earrings. Starting at $370.

On the Plaza, 66 E San Francisco, 505-660-8614 charlotteshop.com

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december 2011 /january 2012

Wendy McEahern

Charlotte Santa Fe

Sterling silver Uma earrings and Mobius pendant on silk cording Adorn yourself with Somers Randolph sculptures. What begins as a tiny soapstone carving is molded, cast solid, and handfinished in a five-step polishing process.

Stone becomes silver and gold, the alchemy of the SOMERS Collection at Packards on the Plaza. Trunk show December 17 and 18, 10 AM–4 PM. 61 Old Santa Fe Trail, 800-648-7358 or 505-983-9241, shoppackards.com

THE

S

ANTA FE YMPHONY

...bringing great music to life Gregory Heltman, General Director Steven Smith, Music Director

ROYAL MUSIC Sun., December 18, 4:00 pm

Handel, Music for the Royal Fireworks and Water Music Corelli, Concerto grosso Op. 6, No. 8 Schumann, Symphony No. 3,“Rhenish”

Santa Fe Silverworks Gregory P. Segura, award-winning precious metals artist, The New Mexico Collection A collection of handmade, custom, sterling silver pins, pendants, cuff links, and bolo ties. Available with turquoise and other semi-precious gemstones. Come see these and additional works of art from one of Santa Fe’s own. Created from the heart and soul of Santa Fe. 1412 Second Street (studio by appointment) 505-670-3955, santafesilverworks.com

Nathalie & Nathalie Home Leather accessories for you and your home, with a blend of European and Southwestern Art, Furniture, Jewelry, Fashion, Cowboy Boots, and much more! Fringed deerskin gloves, in assorted colors. Handbag, laced on hornback alligator stamped leather, in many colors and styles.

503 Canyon, 505-982-1021, nathaliesantafe.com facebook.com/nathaliesantafe

VIENNESE JOY Sun., January 15, 4:00 pm

Guillermo Figueroa, Guest Conductor & Violin MONTI, Czardas STRAUSS, Pizzacato Polka VON SUPPÉ, Poet & Peasant Overture STRAUSS, The Blue Danube …and more Viennese favorites!

Santa Fe’s premier gallery of fine handcrafted boots. Elegant while still being comfortable. Owner Roy Flynn will personally and expertly size you in the finest and most beautiful alligator boots—both belly and hornback, in myriad colors and at the most competitive prices in the industry. Boots and Boogie utilizies five bootmakers and is committed to style, elegance, customer comfort, and satisfaction. Whether it’s the classic alligator or any of the hundreds of other designs available, Boots and Boogie outfits you with style.

102 E Water, in the El Centro Mall one block southwest of La Fonda Hotel, 505-983-0777

julien mcroberts

Boots and Boogie

Homefrocks Silk velvet tank, silk organza dream slip, and soft silk wavy skirt Elegantly rumpled, romantic, adventurous, yet unabashedly feminine —designer Nancy Traugott’s designs meet at the intersection of art and fashion. The attention to detail is sly and witty, the results are stunning…Produced in small lots by artisanal seamstresses and hand-dyed.

611 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-986-5800 homefrocks.com

Kiva Fine Art Kiva Fine Art is pleased to present an informative lecture and demonstration by world-renowned jeweler Ray Tracey. Ray will make a tufa stone casting from start to finish. Join us November 25 from 4 to 7 PM. 102 East Water, 505-820-7413, kivaindianart.com

As the music soars, so will your spirits.

AT THE LENSIC:

SANTA FE’S PERFORMING ARTS CENTER

www.santafesymphony.org 505-983-1414 The 2011-2012 season is funded in part by the Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodger’s Tax, New Mexico Arts, a division of the Office of Cultural Affairs, and the National Endowment for the Arts.

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Resources

Where to buy items featured in the Gift Guide

jrltd.com

ACC 620 Cerillos 505-984-0955 accsantafe.com

Norma Sharon 137 W Water 505-984-3005 normasharon.com

Alpine Sports 121 Sandoval 505-983-5155 alpinesports-santafe.com

O’Farrell Hat Company 111 E San Francisco 505-989-9666 ofarrellhatco.com

Bodhi Bazaar The Shops at Sanbusco 500 Montezuma 505-982-3880 bodhibazaar.com

Oleaceae La Fonda on the Plaza 100 E San Francisco, Suite H 505-795-7780 oleaceaeoliveoil.com

Charlotte 66 E San Francisco, Suite 1 505-660-8614 charlottesantafe.com Cicada Collection 221 Galisteo 505-982-6260 cicadacollection.com

James Reid, Ltd. 114 East Palace Avenue, Santa Fe 800 545 2056 designs@jrltd.com

Constellation Home Electronics 215 N Guadalupe 505-983-9988 constellationsantafe.com Corsini 107 W San Francisco 505-820-2300 Desert Son of Santa Fe 725 Canyon 505-982-9499 desertsonofsantafe.com Golden Eye 115 Don Gaspar 505-984-0040 goldeneyesantafe.com

Plaza Galeria

Goler Fine Imported Shoes 125 E Palace 505-982-0924 golershoes.net Heidi Loewen Porcelain Gallery & School 315 Johnson 505-988-2225 heidiloewen.com

Dream Cakes

Homefrocks 611 Old Santa Fe Trail 505-986-5800 homefrocks.com

stephen’s

· Charlotte & tipit · Gutemaya imports · Desires · historiC Walks · espresso De arte oF santa Fe · Feathers oF heaven · mayan art · For a FistFul oF Dollars · native JaCkets

· shalako · stephen’s · subWay · the ChoColatesmith · native JaCkets

· brain Freeze · Dream Cakes · Wayne lambert Gallery · meDru JeWlers · the oxyGen bar

EXTENDING OUR WARM GREETINGS THIS HOLIDAY SEASON

Final destination for all your Holiday Shopping.

Situated in the heart Santa Fe, the Plaza Galeria offers a variety of unique shops for your gift giving needs.

Be part of Santa Fe’s festive holiday season.

FOR LEASING INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT ADELLA LOGGAINS AT GREER ENTERPRISES, INC. www.greerenterprises.info (505) 983-6504 x-111

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James Reid, Ltd. 114 E Palace 505-988-1147 jrltd.com Molecule Furniture & Design 1226 Flagman Way 505-989-9806 moleculedesign.net

Optical Shop of Aspen 201 Galisteo 505-988-9510 iloristyle.com Packards on the Plaza 61 Old Santa Fe Trail 505-983-9241 shoppackards.com Pandora’s The Shops at Sanbusco 500 Montezuma 505-982-3298 pandorasantafe.com Peruvian Connection 328 S Guadalupe, Suite D 505-438-8198 peruvianconnection.com Poem 125 E Palace 505-820-7884 Rippel and Company 111 Old Santa Fe Trail 505-986-9115 johnrippel.com Rocki Gorman La Fonda on the Plaza 119 Old Santa Fe Trail 505-983-7833 rockigorman.com The Teahouse 821 Canyon 505-992-0972 teahousesantafe.com Tom Taylor Company La Fonda on the Plaza 108 East San Francisco 800-303-9733 tomtaylorbuckles.com Underpinnings 150 Washington, Suite 106 505-983-9103 underpinnings-santafe.com

Nambé 104 W San Francisco 505-988-3574 nambe.com

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian Case Trading Post 704 Camino Lejo Museum Hill 505-982-4636 x 110 wheelwright.org

Night and Day by ACC The Shops at Sanbusco 500 Montezuma 505-983-8227 accsantafe.com

Wink The Shops at Sanbusco 500 Montezuma 505-988-3840 winklifestyle.com

Santa Fe’s favorite activities at your fingertips A division of Hutton Broadcasting

Simplify Your Search SantaFeBeautifulHomes.com

Santa Fean Subscriptions Make Great Gifts 1 year, 6 issues only $14.95 subscriptions subscriptions

800-770-6326 800-770-6326 santafean.com/gift santafean.com/gift Alan & Anne Vorenberg

One Number Direct 505.466.0927

and/or Toll Free 888.257.6750

326 Grant Avenue Santa Fe, NM 87501

505.988.2533

dining • art • culture • history

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Bella Media Group | 215 W San Francisco Street, Suite 300 Santa Fe, NM 87501 | 505-983-1444 december 2011 /january 2012

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Country living never looked so good.

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104 West San Francisco Street 505.988.3574 Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm Sunday 11am-5pm 924 Paseo de Peralta (free parking) 505.988.5528 Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm Sunday 11am-4pm 90 Cities of Gold (Pojoaque) 505.455.2731 Monday-Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 11am-4pm

Items featured: Spire Ornament , Icicle Ornament and the Bud Ornament

Gifts to be Remembered 52

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december 2011 /january 2012

In New Mexico over 60 ye ars.

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Amadeus Leitner

Having recently bought a new—but smaller—home in Santa Fe, author Douglas Preston needed a place where he could write his acclaimed suspense thrillers and nonfiction books. After an extensive search, he found a worn-down office space on Palace Avenue that designer Kris Lajeskie, of Kris Lajeskie Design Group, transformed into the ultimate writing studio. On the next few pages, Preston offers an inside look into the space, which serves as both a refuge and an inspiration.

december 2011 /january 2012

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a room of one’s own bestselling author Douglas Preston’s “writer’s lair”

Above: The warm and welcoming front room of Preston’s studio—which features travertine floors, Venetian plaster walls, a custom hair-on-hide rug, custom walnut coffee table, and velvet-clad butler’s chair—has a salon-like quality; previous page: two Navajo rugs, which were purchased in Santa Fe in the 1920s by Preston’s great aunt, hang above a sofa in the writer’s office, which takes up the back room of the studio.

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Twenty-five years ago, Douglas Preston made what he calls “one of those crazy, spur-of-the-moment decisions” that led him to quit his job as publications manager for the American Museum of Natural History in New York City and move to Santa Fe—despite the fact that he had been here only once, as a child, and had no memory of that visit. “Desperately poor” and “practically starving to death” for his first few years in the City Different, Preston nevertheless embraced his new life and surroundings and eventually hit it big as a New York Times bestselling author who’s become well-known for the suspense thrillers he co-writes with Lincoln Child as well as for his 2008 nonfiction book The Monster of Florence (which is being made into a movie starring George Clooney as Preston). Since his fateful move in 1986—in addition to seeing his writing career take off, Preston met his wife, Christine, at a local art gallery—the author has divided his time primarily between the Southwest and the Northeast. “We sold our house in Santa Fe in 2004 and moved to Maine, then bought another house here in 2009,” Preston says. “It’s a really small space, though, so I needed an office.”

That need for an office eventually led Preston to an old medical center in the Kruger building on

december 2011 /january 2012

Amadeus Leitner

by Amy Hega r ty

Palace Avenue. “The gentleman who owned it was retiring so the price was good, but the space was absolutely horrible as a writing studio,” he says. “It was a tiny warren of dark rooms with old carpet but I thought, boy, there are really big windows here and they’re really nice.” Another plus was the office’s location. “I really liked that it was downtown,” Preston says. “I lived for a while in Florence, Italy, and when I would get stuck with my writing I loved being able to go out into the bustle of the city, get an espresso or something to eat, then go back to my retreat.

While nature inspires me a lot, I love getting out among people, and downtown Santa Fe provides that opportunity.”

Before signing on the dotted line for the Kruger studio, however, Preston asked Kris Lajeskie, a family friend and founder and CEO of Kris Lajeskie Design Group, to look at the space.

“It was in bad shape,” she says, “but I could see through everything at once.”

Encouraged by Lajeskie’s shared faith in the studio, which she refers to as Preston’s “writer’s lair” (“Doug’s a suspense thriller writer—of course it has to be a lair!” she jokes.), the author bought it and handed control of both the remodeling and design aspects over to Lajeskie. “It’s

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Vinyl lettering on the studio’s kitchenette mirror displays the titles of Preston’s bestselling books.

very important to me to create a very high level of trust with my clients,” she says of her process. “I’m very careful up front about understanding the nature of the job and the client’s priorities and preferences, and then I run with it.”

Lajeskie approached the transformation of Preston’s studio by first considering the functionality of the environment. “Doug is a very dedicated writer and needs to be in a secure space that doesn’t have a lot of distractions,” she says. “I’d seen many of his other writing studios and knew that he needed to be inspired, but in a small and intimate setting,” she adds.

Having always thought of Preston as “a renaissance man,” Lajeskie wanted to ensure that his studio reflected “the many passions in his life,” she says. A salon-like parlor fronts the now two-room studio and is ideal for entertaining friends and meeting with business associates. Eye-catching details throughout include an old Union Jack Flag used (in honor of Preston’s English heritage) to upholster the couch; a rare, antique, New Mexico butter maker that passes as a small sofa table; and florilegium prints by Joseph Banks made during an 18th-century visit to Tierra del Fuego with Captain Cook. Preston sent the prints to Lajeskie and she used them to make “a major statement on the focal wall when entering the studio,” she says.

The most meaningful items in the “lair,” however, are the two Navajo rugs that hang over a sitting area near the

John Baker, Amadeus Leitner

continued on page 58

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fabulous finish

a r t m eets fin e c ra fts ma nship in Andre Durand’s plaster creations As resident artist at construction company Fabu-Wall-ous Solutions, Andre Durand works with centuries-old techniques to liven up spaces throughout Northern New Mexico. Using water-based plaster, Durand paints murals and abstract art in kitchens, offices, living spaces, and bedrooms. He’s created mountains, beaches, and every imaginable decorative element on ceilings, kiva fireplaces, walls, and even fan blades.

Born in South Africa, Durand studied fine art at the University of Pretoria and moved to Santa Fe from Minneapolis about 10 years ago. He was painting canvases on his own but working with faux finishes to pay his bills when he met Bill Deuschle, co-owner of FabuWall-ous, who suggested he combine his talents. “I ended up painting the ceiling Andre Durand in Bill’s house,” Durand says. “We started talking and got really excited about the possibilities.”

“It’s rare to find someone who can be artistic and work in construction with us—it’s hard to find that combination in a person,” says Chuck Caswell, who co-owns Fabu-Wall-ous with Deuschle. The pair brought Durand, who helps with plastering and other work in addition to painting, on staff full-time in 2010.

Above: Durand conceptualized this mural with a customer who, the artist says, “wanted to feel like she was sitting in a tree in her office”; left: Duran and one of his paintings­, created with Akrostucco, an Italian Venetian plaster­.

Durand stresses that he prefers to work with clients, rather than for them. In one instance, a homeowner for whom he was creating a partition helped him sculpt it. “She said she had always wanted to be creative,” Durand recalls. “Maybe it was a question of confidence, but she took over half way through.”

Durand considers his job a great creative outlet and especially enjoys the variety. “I get bored with one medium quickly,” he says. “I like to combine all of the them, and I have the ability to translate someone’s words into a vision.”­—Samantha Schwirck december 2011 /january 2012

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continued from page 56

“knits you will rock!”

505-920-0415 www.katherinemaxwell.com

desk in the rear room, which is Preston’s actual office. “Those rugs are really important to me,” Preston says. “My great aunt Aletheia, who was an artist, purchased them when she was visiting Santa Fe in the 1920s. She bought a lot of great stuff here, like Maria Martinez pots, that’s been passed down to the family. The rugs represent a sort of connection between my family and this area.”

Having finished the project in what Lajeskie describes as record time, she then arranged for Preston to come by for an official unveiling, which, the designer says, she always “makes a bit of a fanfare out of.” Indeed, when Preston walked into the

Photo: drummer Braden Anderson of The Strange by Ziggie Bergman

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open nightly for lite dining and spirits

100 Sandoval St., Santa Fe, NM 87501 | 800-336-3676 | HiltonOfSantaFe.com 58

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december 2011 /january 2012

studio for the first time, “Kris put a blindfold on me,” he recalls. “When I saw what she had done I was staggered,” he adds. “I couldn’t believe how beautiful it was.”

With his latest book, Gideon’s Corpse (much of which is set in Santa Fe and Los Alamos), due to hit bookshelves in January, and with a number of other projects in the works, Preston plans to take full advantage of his functional—and fabulous—new office. “I’m pretty much a 40-hours-a-week writer,” he says, “so I’ll be using this space every day of the week and possibly on weekends. It’s a wonderfully inspirational place to work.”

Amadeus Leitner

Your stay becomes extraordinary at the Hilton Santa Fe Historic Plaza. Originally the hacienda of the influential Ortiz Family who settled in Santa Fe in 1694, we offer luxury guestrooms, private casitas and thoughtful touches for the leisure and business traveler alike. For the start of the day, lunch, or a lite dinner El Cañon offers fabulous fare morning, noon & night. Just steps from Santa Fe’s Historic Plaza with fine art galleries, museums and shopping—a unique experience in a unique destination.

A “host” table, with a custom iron sculpture and a colored-glass pendant above it, serves as a bar as well as an eating or working space in the studio’s front room.

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Best Planning/circulation/Livability in each of two separate categories

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2003 PARADE OF HOMES GRand Hacienda

Best Floor Plan Best Master Suite Best exterior Best craftsmanship

2003 PARADE OF HOMES

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2001 PARADE OF HOMES

Peoples choice award Best Floor Plan Best Master Suite Best exterior Best Kitchen Best craftsmanship

2000 PARADE OF HOMES

Best exterior

1998 PARADE OF HOMES GRand Hacienda

Best Kitchen Best Outdoor Living Space

1996 Best of Show Best Floor Plan Best Master Suite Best exterior Best Kitchen Best Outdoor Living Space Best craftsmanship

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PARADE OF HOMES GRand Hacienda

505.989.8484

tierraconceptssantafe.com

THE 17 ANNUAL LA ART SHOW: CONTEMPORARY AND MODERN, FEATURES EXCITING, BOLD WORKS FROM TODAY’S GREAT ARTISTS AND INFLUENTIAL VISIONARIES OF THE PAST 60 YEARS. PAINTING, SCULPTURE, WORKS ON PAPER, PHOTOGRAPHY, INSTALLATIONS, VIDEO – OVER 90 PROMINENT GALLERIES FROM AROUND THE GLOBE.

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LA CONVENTION CENTER / WEST HALL B THE 17TH ANNUAL LOS ANGELE S FINE ART SHOW: HISTORIC & TRADITIONAL OFFERS SIGNIFICANT, QUALITY PAINTINGS AND SCULPTURE FROM 18TH CENTURY EUROPEAN TO CONTEMPORARY REALISM - FROM CALIFORNIA PLEIN AIR TO THE HUDSON RIVER SCHOOL. THIS SHOW PRESENTS VARIED YET COMPLEMENTARY GENRES AND CELEBRATES ARTISTS WHO CONTINUE TO EXPLORE RESPECTED REGIONAL STYLES.

JANUARY 18–22, 2012

LA CONVENTION CENTER / WEST HALL B

THE 17TH ANNUAL LOS ANGELE S FINE ART SHOW: HISTORIC & TRADITIONAL OFFERS SIGNIFICANT, QUALITY PAINTINGS AND SCULPTURE FROM 18TH CENTURY EUROPEAN TO CONTEMPORARY REALISM - FROM CALIFORNIA PLEIN AIR TO THE HUDSON RIVER SCHOOL. THIS SHOW PRESENTS VARIED YET COMPLEMENTARY GENRES AND CELEBRATES ARTISTS WHO CONTINUE TO EXPLORE RESPECTED REGIONAL STYLES.

1 WEEKEND - 3 SHOWS! VISIT THE LA ART SHOW: MODERN & CONTEMPORARY, WEST HALL A, AND THE 27TH ANNUAL LOS ANGELES IFPDA FINE PRINT FAIR, WEST HALL A & B

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ARTsmart presents the 15th Annual ™

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Join us for a weekend of fine ART, FOOD, WINE, FASHION & HOMES benefiting ART programs for Santa Fe’s youth Friday February 24

Purchase Tickets at artfeast.com

Art of Fashion: Runway Show & Luncheon

505.603.4643, info@artfeast.com and at the ARTsmart office, 102 E. Water Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501

Edible Art Tour

Edible Art Tour tickets are also available at participating galleries and through Tickets Santa Fe, Lensic Box Office: 505.988.1234 and ticketssantafe.com

11:30 am – 2 pm, Inn & Spa at Loretto $100, before 12/31/11, $90

5 – 8 pm, Downtown & Canyon Road, $35

Feast or Famine

8 pm – 2 am, Ore House at Milagro $15 or free admission with EAT ticket

Saturday February 25 Underwriters

Art of Home Tour

12 – 4 pm, free admission

Gourmet Dinner & Auction 6 pm, Encantado Resort $175, before 12/31/11, $150

Mary & Robert Harbour; New Mexico Tourism Department: newmexico.org; and City of Santa Fe Lodger’s Tax: santafenm.gov

Sunday February 26 Artists’ Champagne Brunch & Auction

11:30 am – 2 pm Scottish Rite Temple $75, before 12/31/11, $65

Art of Home Tour

12 – 4 pm, free admission

ARTsmart ensures that Santa Fe and New Mexico youth have the opportunity to explore, experience, and engage in the visual arts, a critical component of every student’s education.

DOUGLAS MERRIAM

french connections

The folks who brought us tasty Max’s, in the Guadalupe district, are spreading their considerable culinary wings downtown with the stylishly casual Tomme. Named for a cheese that hails from the mountain regions of France, this laid-back kid sister to the more serious Max’s boasts the same reverence for quality ingredients and the same clever cuisine. More pocket-friendly—yet certainly no poor relation—Tomme tempts the palate with classic bistro dishes like steak frites, steaming bowls of mussels, pan-seared sole with brown butter, and (the stunner pictured here) an airy gougère stuffed with slow-braised beef short ribs and sided with apricot gremolata. There’s a killer Wagyu burger on a house-made bun, fried chicken with brown gravy and bacon-braised greens, and so much more . . . I could write a tome!—John Vollertsen Tomme, 229 Galisteo, 505-820-2253

december 2011 /january 2012

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REVIEW

new and nosh-worthy Many times each year, wandering tourists stop me and ask for directions to “the square,” “the mall,” or “the town center.”

Occasionally they get it right and ask about the Plaza. I think it’s charming—the Plaza is, after all, the hub of Santa Fe activity. It will definitely be bustling this winter, with the recent opening of several new drinking and dining establishments in nearby hotels.

I invite my surrogate family—my 10-year-old goddaughter, Fallon, her 7-year-old brother, Dashiell, and their mom, Kristen—to spend the night and check out the restaurant at the Hotel Chimayó, just off the Plaza.

Open since October, the Heritage Hotel Group’s recent renovation of the former Plaza Real incorporates a theme that has locals abuzz—it’s designed to echo the flavor and culture of Chimayó, a tiny town 25 miles north of Santa Fe. Critics may say the gimmick is Las Vegasesque (like staying at the New York-New York hotel in lieu of visiting the real place).

I found the hotel charming, while the kids called it “cool.”

Hotel Chimayó’s towering lobby features a rustic chandelier, a wood-carved fireplace decorated with hand-painted tiles, and an Indian-blanketed settee for lounging. More than 70 Chimayó artisans created the hotel’s adornments, which are heavy with cross motifs. The look is stylish and simple, true to the Northern New Mexico vibe. Things get brighter in the hotel’s Low ’n Slow Lowrider Bar. Named for the squat, iconic cars popular with Hispanic auto enthusiasts, its colorful interior is a mash-up of car parts. The chandelier, for example, is made of hubcaps.

Upstairs in the cozy Tia’s Cocina dining room, we started with a sampling of what Chef Estevan Garcia does best: traditional New Mexican dishes with a creative spin. A “modern” chile relleno arrived unbattered; it was roasted, peeled, and stuffed with asadero cheese, then baked and served adrift on a sea of Garcia’s complex red chile sauce, which may well be the best in town. A queso blanco salad paired local “farm cheese” and tomatoes, showing off Garcia’s commitment to using local ingredients.

For main courses, the kids were tempted by tortilla-wrapped hot Top: Tasty lobster sliders at Agave Lounge; below, left to right, Agave’s inviting interior, a sparkling Très Chic (Prosecco with pear and elderberry liqueurs) at Agave, Chef Estevan Garcia at Tia’s Cocina.

Chef Estevan Garcia 64

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DOUGLAS MERRIAM

by John Vollertsen

dogs, but they decide on Frito pie and tamales. My cornmealcrusted pan-fried trout with a sauce of lemon butter and garlic was delicious and fresh, as if caught that afternoon in the Chama River. Mom loved her Enchiladas de Chimayo, impressed with the chicos (sun-dried corn kernels) mixed into the accompanying pinto beans. Since the holidays were approaching, she orderd it “Christmas,” i.e., with both red and green chile on the plate.

We left the restaurant full and satisfied. After a great night’s sleep at the hotel—in one of the cushiest beds I’ve experienced in Santa Fe—we returned to Tia’s Cocina for breakfast. The meal started with fluffy sopaipillas drizzled with honey—the kids gobbled them up—followed by ham and eggs swathed in more of that spicy red chile. As we cleaned our plates, I explained the concept of a “staycation” to the youngsters. They can’t wait for me to plan another one.

On another autumn night, some friends and I checked out the swanky new Agave Lounge at the Eldorado Hotel and Spa. A good chunk of The Old House Restaurant has been converted into this modern cocktail bar, which offers a more casual option for dining—a smart move in these tough economic times. We nestled into a leather banquette near the fireplace, close to the all-you-can-eat slider/hot dog/salsa bar—just $5 per person on Monday Night Football evenings.

We got a kick out of helping ourselves while we added an order of yummy bacon-wrapped shrimp with chipotle maple drizzle and a plate of nachos, spiffed up with blacks beans.

Agave, with its terrific buzzy vibe, is a welcome addition to the downtown nightlife scene. The bar features a long margarita and mojito list, an extensive selection of beer and wine by the glass, and specialty cocktails with a creative twist. We enjoyed two, a Hibiscus Drop (hibiscus-infused vodka, lemonade, and candied hibiscus) and a Très Chic (a concoction of prosecco swirled with pear and elderberry liqueurs). Don’t miss the daily happy hour specials, with $1 and $2 sliders (Tuesday is lobster slider night!). A glance at Chef Anthony Smith’s dinner menu puts a meal next door in The Old House on my list of places to visit soon. —JV Tia’s Cocina and Low ’n Slow Lowrider Bar at Hotel Chimayó, 125 Washington, 505-988-4900, hotelchimayo.com Agave Lounge at the Eldorado Hotel and Spa, 309 W San Francisco, 505-988-4455, eldoradohotel.com

digestifs

Clockwise from top left: Tortilla-wrapped hot dogs at Tia’s Cocina, car-inspired decor at the Low ’n Slow Lowrider Bar, one of the stand-out New Mexican dishes at Tia’s Cocina.

Our beautiful town is built for holiday celebrating. The historic Plaza and all the streets that surround it burst with color and lights, heralding a variety of holy days for a diversity of faiths. There is snow on the mountains to placate ski enthusiasts, and our hospitality professionals really turn on the charm at this time of year. It’s a definite call to eat, drink, and be merry.

While you’re giving to your loved ones, don’t forget to give to members of the community in need.

New Mexico still ranks high for what’s called “food hardship and insecurity.” Making an online donation to the Food Depot (thefooddepot.org) is quick and easy, and it puts food right into the mouths of our neighbors. If, like many, you are feeling the stress and the crunch of this holiday season, let me borrow a lyric from the great Irving Berlin, from his score for White Christmas. When I’m worried and I can’t sleep, I count my blessings instead of sleep. And I fall asleep counting my blessings. It’s good advice for happy holidays and a delicious new year.—JV december 2011 /january 2012

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e Grand Centennial january 6, 2012

Ball

MNM Neg. # 135044, Fiesta Dancers Near Shelby Street

Join Us for the Birthday Party  the Century!

Black Tie or Period Atti Benefiting the New Mexico Centennial Children's Legacy Fund

An Enchanting Evening with Cocktails, Special Guests, ree Course Dinner with Wine Pairing, Dessert and Birthday Surprises Hosted by Actor-Comedian, Steven Michael Quezada Music by New Mexico’s own Hillary Smith and Soul Kitchen

January 6th, 2012, 6:00 - 10:30 pm | Santa Fe Community Convention Center Tickets $250 | VIP Tickets and Tables Available | Purchase Online: www.ticketssantafe.org or call: (505) 988-1234

Stephen and Kathleen Elliott

First National Bank

Blue Cross and Blue Shield of New Mexico

of Santa Fe

www.NMCentennial.org

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

taste of the town

NORTHERN NEW MEXICO’S FINEST DINING EXPERIENCES The Bull Ring

150 Washington, 505-983-3328 santafebullring.com Serving Santa Fe since 1971, the legendary Bull Ring is “the prime” steakhouse in Santa Fe. Voted “Best of Santa Fe” year after year, it also offers fresh seafood, chicken, chops, an extensive wine list, a saloon menu, and patio dining. If there’s one thing New Mexico’s politicians can agree on, it’s where to eat in Santa Fe. Conveniently located one block north of the Plaza in the courtyard of the New Mexico Bank & Trust building. For a quick bite after a stroll at the nearby Plaza— or for a late-night snack—he lounge’s bar menu is sure to satisfy. Lunch 11:30 am–2:30 pm, Monday–Friday; dinner nightly starting at 5 pm. Patio seating. Also Spanish guitar music Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. Underground parking available on Washington.

Chocolate Maven Bakery

821 W San Mateo, Suite C 505-982-4400, chocolatemaven.com A long-standing local favorite, Chocolate Maven does it all: breakfast, lunch, dinner, high tea, brunch, and every type of pastry, cookie, and cake imaginable! We create delicious, eclectic menus using local, organic produce, meats, and cheeses, helping to support local farmers while bringing you the freshest, most flavorful food possible. Don’t miss this hidden gem on your next visit to Santa Fe. Open seven days a week. Dinner Tuesday–Saturday 5–8:30 pm; breakfast and lunch Monday–Friday 7 am–3 pm; high tea Monday–Saturday 3–5 pm; brunch Saturday and Sunday 9–3 pm.

The Compound Restaurant

653 Canyon, 505-982-4353 compoundrestaurant.com Recognized by Gourmet magazine’s Guide to America’s Best Restaurants and the New York Times as a destination not to be missed. Chef/owner Mark Kiffin, the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef of the Southwest,” pairs seasonal contemporary American cuisine with professional service in a timeless, elegant adobe building designed by famed architect Alexander Girard. Extensive wine list, full bar, picturesque garden patios, a variety of beautiful settings for wedding receptions, social affairs,

or corporate events for 12 to 250 guests. Private parking.

Seasonal specialty: tuna tartare topped with Osetra caviar and preserved lemon. Lunch 12–2 pm, Monday–Saturday; bar nightly 5 pm–close; dinner nightly from 6 pm; full lunch and dinner menu available in the bar.

Doc Martin’s at the Historic Taos Inn

125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-1977, taosinn.com Doc Martin’s restaurant is an acclaimed fine-dining establishment located in a registered historic landmark.

Doc’s is a true Taos tradition, earning multiple awards.

Executive chef Zippy White specializes in organic foods, with chile rellenos being his signature dish. With more than 400 wine selections, our world-class wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s “Best of” award of excellence for 21 consecutive years. The Adobe Bar features complimentary live entertainment nightly. Patio dining as weather permits. Featured dessert: the chocolate-lover’s pie—a rich, silky chocolate mousse, whipped cream, sweet cookie crust. Breakfast is served daily 7:30–11 am; lunch 11:30 am–2:30 pm; dinner 5:30–9 pm; Saturday and Sunday brunch 7:30 am–2:30 pm.

El Mesón

213 Washington, 505-983-6756 elmeson-santafe.com A native of Madrid, Spain, chef/owner David Huertas has been delighting customers since 1997 with family recipes and specialties of his homeland. The paella is classic and legendary—served straight from the flame to your table in black iron pans; the saffron-infused rice is perfectly cooked and heaped with chicken, chorizo, seafood, and more. The house-made sangria is from a generations-old recipe with a splash of brandy. The ¡Chispa! tapas bar offers a fine array of tapas. The full bar includes a distinguished Spanish wine list and special sherries and liqueurs imported from a country full of passion and tradition. Occasional musical entertainment and dancing. Dinner is served 5–11 pm, Tuesday–Saturday.

Galisteo Bistro

227 Galisteo, 505-982-3700 galisteobistro.com Chef-owned and “made by hand,” featuring eclectic, innovative international cuisine known for its open kitchen,

featured listing Coyote Cafe 132 W Water 505-983-1615 coyotecafe.com

quality menu offerings, and attentive service in a casual, comfortable downtown setting. Just a short walk to the historic Santa Fe Plaza, the Lensic Performing Arts Center, hotels, and museums. “I admire a restaurateur who says, Hey, I want to cook the foods I love, like a musician who says, I want to play the music I enjoy. He would have made a great conductor; his orchestra of a staff is playing lovely food in perfect harmony. If music be the food of love—long may the Galisteo Bistro play on.”—John Vollertsen, Santa Fean. Wednesday–Sunday 5–9 pm.

Geronimo

724 Canyon, 505-982-1500 geronimorestaurant.com Señor Geronimo Lopes would be pleased if he knew how famous his 250-year-old hacienda on Canyon Road has become. The landmark adobe is now home to a cutting-edge restaurant—elegant, contemporary—serving the highest-quality, most creative food.

Award-winning executive chef Eric DiStefano serves up a creative mix of French sauces and technique with culinary influences of Asia, the Southwest, and his own roots in Italy, blended to bring taste to new levels.

Geronimo is New Mexico’s only restaurant with both Mobil Four Star and AAA Four Diamond awards. Dinner seven days a week, beginning at 5:45 pm.

Il Piatto

95 W Marcy, 505-984-1091 ilpiattosantafe.com Locally owned Italian trattoria located one block north of the Plaza. Nationally acclaimed and affordable, Il Piatto features local organic produce and house-made pastas.

Prix fixe three-course lunch, $14.95. Dinner: three courses, $29.50, or four courses, $37.50 (anything on the menu, including specials). No restrictions. Lunch Monday–Friday 11:30 am–2 pm; dinner seven nights a week from 5 pm.

“Everything is right at Il Piatto, including the price.”

—Albuquerque Journal

India Palace

227 Don Gaspar, 505-986-5859 indiapalace.com Voted “Best Ethnic Restaurant” in Santa Fe. Located just one block from the Plaza, India Palace specializes in the dynamic, complex cuisine of Northern India using ayurvedic (science of longevity) cooking principles.

Homemade cheese, yogurt, ghee, kulfi (pistachio ice cream) and tandoori-fired traditional breads compliment the extensive menu, which includes chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Entrees may be ordered mild, medium or hot. No artificial flavors or MSG. Restaurant entrance is located at Don Gaspar & Water St. inside the parking lot. Open 7 days a week. Lunch 11:30 am–2:30 pm; dinner 5–10 pm.

Inn of the Anasazi

113 Washington, 505-988-3030 innoftheanasazi.com New Mexico’s only Mobil Four Star, AAA Four Diamond hotel is also home to Santa Fe’s most highly acclaimed culinary destination. The Anasazi Restaurant features a welcoming and rustic Southwestern atmosphere. Chef Oliver Ridgeway offers seasonal menus, with fresh local ingredients, to celebrate creative American cuisine.

Open seven days a week—serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, brunch on weekends, and bar menu. Breakfast

Coyote Cafe continues to be Santa Fe’s most famous and celebrated restaurant, feted by critics and return visitors alike. Executive chef/owner is world-renowned Eric DiStefano, who brings with him his contemporary global style of cooking that has French-Asian influences accompanied with Coyote Cafe’s known Southwestern style.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Monday–Friday 7–10:30 am, Saturday 7–11 am; lunch Monday–Saturday 11 am–2:30 pm; dinner daily 5:30–10 pm; Sunday brunch 11 am–2:30 pm.

La Casa Sena

125 E Palace, 505-988-9232 lacasasena.com La Casa Sena is located in downtown Santa Fe, in historic Sena Plaza. We feature modern, sustainable cuisine; an award-winning wine list; and a spectacular patio, and we are committed to using fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients whenever possible. La Casa Sena has been one of Santa Fe’s finest and most popular restaurants for over 27 years. For a more casual dining experience, visit La Cantina and be entertained by our singing waitstaff performing the best of Broadway, jazz, and much more nightly. Lunch is served 11 am–3 pm Monday–Saturday; dinner 5:30–10 pm nightly. Sunday brunch in a beautiful patio setting is available 11 am–3 pm. Our popular wine shop adjacent to the restaurant features a large selection of fine wines and is open 11 am–7 pm Monday–Saturday.

La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza

100 E San Francisco, 505-995-2334 lafondasantafe.com Experience Old World Santa Fe while dining at La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza. The menu showcases old favorites with New World twists. Our wine list is award-winning, our service is impeccable and, according to the reviewers, you’ll be dining in the “best of Santa Fe style.” La Plazuela hours: breakfast 7–11:30 am daily; lunch 11:30 am– 2 pm Monday– Friday, 11:30 am–3 pm Saturday and Sunday; dinner 5:30–10 pm daily.

Luminaria Restaurant at the Inn and Spa at Loretto

211 Old Santa Fe Trail 800-727-5531 or 505-984-7962 innatloretto.com Luminaria introduces Matt Ostrander as executive chef.

Chef Ostrander is no stranger to local Santa Fe foodies.

A quintessential City Different chef, Ostrander is selftrained, gaining his experience as a true Santa Fe chef in some of the great culinary establishments in the area.

Luminaria menus focus on chef Ostrander’s sustainable approach to his cuisine and feature an abundance of fresh, locally grown ingredients with the perfect Southwestern twist. Breakfast 7–11 am; lunch 11:30 am–2 pm; dinner 5–9 pm. Early-evening dinner at Cena Pronto, 5–6:30 pm; Sunday brunch 11 am–2 pm.

Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen

555 W Cordova, 505-983-7929 marias-santafe.com Maria’s now uses only 100 percent-agave tequila in every one of the more than 200 hand-poured, handshaken margaritas served—no wonder Maria’s has been chosen “Santa Fe’s Best Margarita” for the 15th consecutive year. Maria’s uses no sugar or mixes— totally pure and natural. A Santa Fe tradition since 1950, Maria’s specializes in authentic home-style Northern New Mexico cuisine, plus steaks, burgers, and fajitas.

You can watch your flour tortillas being rolled out and cooked by hand. Lunch and dinner, 11 am–10 pm Monday–Friday; noon–10 pm Saturday and Sunday.

Reservations are suggested.

featured listing The Palace Restaurant and Saloon 142 W Palace 505-428-0690 palacesantafe.com

This historic classic exudes the elegant character of Santa Fe in its interior but surprises with modern Italian and New American Cuisine by Chef Joseph Wrede and a dedicated team of culinary professionals. It’s nice, with a little naughty on the side.

Max’s

403 1/2 S Guadalupe, 505-984-9104 maxssantafe.com Max’s has undergone a transformation, and now offers dinners of cutting-edge foods with contemporary presentations prepared by new executive chef/partner Mark Connell. The menu highlights local, sustainable, and seasonal ingredients from a tantalizing selection of confit, house smoked-sturgeon, sous vide pork to Wagyu beef, and a lovely assortment of house made desserts. Most nights find chef Mark and Maria “Max” Renteria attending their guests on the patio or in the dining room. Open Tuesday–Saturday, 5:30–9:30 pm.

Ore House at Milagro

139 W San Francisco, 505-995-0139 orehouseatmilagro.com The Ore House tradition continues its 35 years of history at its new Milagro location (where Galisteo meets San Francisco), under its skylight roof and on its outdoor entry patio. The Ore House at Milagro is Santa Fe’s live music, chile, and margarita headquarters. The restaurant serves great New Mexico cuisine in an exquisite setting, with chile prepared in many traditional and new ways. Specialties include the savory, signature Red Chile Relleno and Milagro’s wonderful Chiles en Nogado.

Open seven days a week. Lunch 11:30 am–2:30 pm; cantina menu 2:30 pm–close; dinner 5:30 pm–close.

The Ranch House

2571 Cristos Road, 505-474-6466 Josh’s Barbecue is expanding its concept. Due to open on Santa Fe’s Southside mid-December, The Ranch House will have the same great BBQ and more! This newly constructed restaurant will have indoor and outdoor dining, a full bar with signature cocktails and eight beers on tap. The expanded menu will include new salads, appetizers, and a grill menu with salmon, steaks, and more! It is located on Cerrillos and Cristos Road near Kohls. Open daily from 11 am–10 pm.

Rancho de Chimayó

Santa Fe County Road 98, #300 on the scenic “High Road to Taos” 505-984-2100, ranchodechimayo.com A treasured part of New Mexico’s history and heritage.

A timeless tradition. Serving world-renowned traditional and contemporary native New Mexican cuisine in an exceptional setting since 1965. Enjoy outdoor dining or soak up the culture and ambience indoors at this centuryold adobe home. Try the Rancho de Chimayó’s specialty: carne adovada—marinated pork simmered in a spicy, www.santafean.com

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red-chile-caribe sauce. Come cherish the memories and make new ones. Open seven days, May–October, 11:30 am–9 pm; open six days November–April, 11:30 am–9 pm, closed Mondays. Online store is now open!

Rio Chama

414 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505-955-0765 riochamasteakhouse.com Located just south of the Plaza next to the State Capitol building, Rio Chama has been a favorite for locals and visitors for more than 10 years. Chef Russell Thornton focuses on contemporary American cuisine with Southwestern influences, featuring the finest dry and wet aged steaks, prime rib, wild game, and fresh seafood. Our wine list features over 900 labels and 28 wines by the glass, earning us the “Best of” award from Wine Spectator. It is sure to excite the oenophile in anyone. Rio Chama offers a mix of intimate dining spaces, two beautiful patios, and a bustling bar.

Open daily from 11 am–close.

Santacafé

231 Washington, 505-984-1788 santacafe.com Centrally located in Santa Fe’s distinguished downtown district, this charming Southwestern bistro, situated in the historic Padre Gallegos House, offers our guests the classic Santa Fe backdrop. Step into the pristine experience Santacafé has been consistently providing for more than 25 years. New American cuisine is tweaked in a Southwestern context, and the food is simply and elegantly presented. Frequented by the famous and infamous, the Santacafé patio offers some of the best people watching in Santa Fe! During high season, our courtyard, protected by a sun canopy, becomes one of the most coveted locales in Santa Fe. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Terra Restaurant at Encantado Resort

198 State Road 592, 505-946-5700, encantadoresort.com Terra, the signature restaurant for Encantado, an Auberge Resort, features majestic views of the surrounding mountains and offers an inventive interpretation of American cuisine. Having achieved Wine Spectator’s coveted “Best of” excellence award, chef Charles Dale’s modern rustic cuisine exemplifies a passion for simple yet refined menus that maintain a connection to regional influences, which is evident in all of his dishes, such as his signature boneless beef short ribs with poblano-mushroom mac-n-cheese. Terra is open seven days a week, 365 days a year. Breakfast 7–11 am; brunch/lunch 11:30 am–2 pm; dinner 5:30–10 pm.

party of the century Celebrate New Mexico’s birthday—100 years of statehood!—on January 6 at The Grand Centennial Ball. Attendees are asked to wear black-tie or 1912­ period attire for dinner, dancing, and an evening of special guests and surprises at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. “Take a Step Back in Time for the Future of New Mexico” is the evening’s theme, and all proceeds support the New Mexico Centennial Children’s Legacy Fund, an education-based initiative for New Mexico’s youth. Tickets: $250 per person; 6:00­–11:00 pm; 505-984-2012; nmcentennial.org GALA

life’s rich pageant Embrace the holiday season with a tradition that’s been around for centuries in Mexico and for years here in Santa Fe. The annual Las Posadas procession—in which actors dressed as Mary, Joseph, and other Biblical figures reenact the search for lodging on Christmas Eve in Bethlehem—takes place on December 11, beginning at the Palace of the Governors.

Join in or observe the group strolling the Plaza before looping back to the Palace of the Governors for refreshments and caroling. Free; 5:30­­–7:30 pm; 505-476-1141; nmhistorymuseum.org

top to bottom: Palace of the governors photo archives, nicholas chiarella/New Mexico History Museum, insight foto, INC.

tradition

2012 overture m u s i C Ring in the New Year with the sounds of the Santa Fe Concert Association Orchestra at the Lensic Performing Arts Center. The annual December 31 event, conducted by SFCA artistic director Joseph Illick, features world-renowned pianist Claire Huangci and includes works by Prokofiev (Piano Concerto No. 3) and Beethoven (Symphony No. 5). The SFCA’s annual dinnerand-dancing gala follows at La Posada de Santa Fe. Tickets: concert, 5:00 pm, $20–$92; gala, 7:30 pm–1:00 am, $225; 505-984-8759; santafeconcerts.org

| H I S TO R Y |

making tracks

how t he Sa n t a Fe Sout he r n R ailway rolle d into town

by Kate McG raw

of the Galisteo Basin and into town. Also militating against a Santa Fe February 9, 1880, was a red-letter day in Santa Fe: the railroad came to town. Arriving along a spur of the Atchison, Topeka stop was the booming commercial growth in Las Vegas—the ATSF’s first major stop in New Mexico—and in the Bernalillo County val& Santa Fe Railway from Lamy, New Mexico, the train’s journey wasn’t ley around Albuquerque. In both locations, the coming of the railroad an easy one. “The steam engine had to push the few cars backwards all meant development of a “new town” area near the tracks where the inthe way because there wasn’t a Y of tracks in Santa Fe where it could creased freight-and-cattle-hauling business was being pursued. Santa Fe, turn around,” says Cornelia “Dedie” Snow, a historical-sites archaeolomeanwhile, had gone within 10 years (1870 to 1880) from being New gist with the Archaeological Records Management Section of the state’s Mexico’s third most populous county to its sixth; to the train barons, the Historic Preservation Division. Although Snow has never found a phocity had become a small town whose freight could be handled in a few tograph of that historic arrival, the headline in the local newspaper, the boxcars a month—i.e., it wasn’t the sort of thriving business center they Weekly New Mexican, announced “The End of the Santa Fe Trail.” were looking for. Railroad officials were ambivalent about spending the That headline basically said it all. What had been chartered in 1859 as money to bring the line into the Atchison & Topeka CompaSanta Fe when they didn’t see ny (a freight-and-passenger line Local leaders direly predicted enough commercial possibiliin Kansas) was renamed in 1863 the death of Santa Fe ties in either passenger ticket to include the “Santa Fe” sobrisales or freight haulage to make quet because the line’s developer, without the presence of the railroad. the expenditure feasible, while Cyrus K. Holliday, thought the romance of the Santa Fe Trail would add cachet in investors’ minds. (Hol- Santa Fe business leaders were uncertain about having a “new town” emerge near the depot property on Guadalupe Street, since they’d always liday himself seems to have been somewhat infatuated with the idea of concentrated their business district on the Plaza. following the Trail across the plains and mountains into Santa Fe.) Throughout the 1870s, local tensions raged over the fate of the railBy 1868, the ATSF was crunching westward. By then, however, the road. Some leaders, particularly the publishers of the Weekly New Mexican, railroad developers weren’t eager to bring the train line into the city of direly predicted the financial death of Santa Fe if it didn’t come to town.

Santa Fe. Several surveyors reported that the regional terrain was too Other city fathers said Santa Fe’s romantic appeal could weather the steep, rocky, and pocketed with arroyos to build the line up the hills out 70

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PaLace of the governors photo Archives

blow, particularly if voters approved a bond issue to have a proposed spur line built across the Basin from the depot planned at Lamy, 18 miles southeast of town. By mid-1879, the ATSF had crested Raton Peak and was on its way into central New Mexico. While it was finally clear that the railroad wasn’t coming to Santa Fe, it was also clear that the only hope of progressives in the business community was, indeed, the spur line.

On Oct. 4, 1879, by votes of 191 to 72 and 192 to 67, Santa Fe property owners approved two separate bond proposals, in the amounts of $79,000 and $71,000, to pay the railroad to build the spur. The vote was decided along city-county lines, with city voters approving the measures by 191 and 192 votes and county voters rejecting them 54 to 10 on each proposal.

The Santa Fe Depot was eventually built, despite claims of profiteering on the parts of property owners in the Guadalupe district, and the spur line was constructed between December 1979 and January 1880; in February, that first small train came chuffing into the new station. By the following spring the depot was surrounded by a water tank, windmill, coal house, and engine house.

Today, the spur—which didn’t have a name until the Santa Fe Southern Railway established its sightseeing rides in 1992—still terminates at that Mission-style depot on Guadalupe Street. The railway carries passengers out of the now and into the then: in rolling stock decked out in 1920s-style grandeur, passengers are hauled amid the high-desert beauty between Santa Fe and the small village of Lamy, which is reminiscent of the area’s Wild West past. In addition to sightseers, the train still also carries freight to serve the Santa Fe community.

As Southern officials note, the railway is often one of the few things (and sometimes the only thing) visitors know about Santa Fe before arriving here. And while the ATSF no longer exists—it merged with Burlington Northern in 1995—the storied line still remains in spirit. Its famous logo marks the cars that run along the spur, for example.

The Santa Fe Southern offers a variety of rides for families, romantic couples, nostalgia buffs, and just about anyone who loves a clickety-clack

train ride along vintage cars, either coach or luxury. The standard journey to Lamy and back, which is offered on Saturdays year-round and also on Fridays beginning in April, takes about four hours, roughly one hour each way with a layover in the village. During the layover, you can purchase lunch from a concessionaire and walk under ancient cottonwoods along the peaceful grounds of the Lamy depot, where you may also see Amtrak trains heading east or west. Fall and winter specials include caroling trips and storybook rides (kids wear their PJs) in mid-December, as well as other family-friendly outings around Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. On Sundays throughout the year and also on Wednesdays beginning in May, the Southern offers the shorter Hotshot ride, which, rather than going all the way to Lamy, instead travels 16 miles to the Galisteo Basin overlook where you can take in the stunning panoramic view. Following a short stopover (passengers don’t de-board), the train heads back to Santa Fe, with the caboose “shoving” the cars backwards all the way home—just like in 1880.

For more on the Santa Fe Southern Railway, to make reservations, or to buy memorabilia and other items, visit thetraininsantafe.com.

Top: a family waits at the Lamy depot ca. 1915; bottom: an Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe train travels through New Mexico ca. 1913; opposite page: workers stand with an ATSF freight car that was used as both a cookhouse and living quarters ca. 1895. december 2011 /january 2012

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| D AY T R I P |

The winter season in Northern New Mexico is one of a kind—fresh snow and crisp, cold air is balanced by beautiful surroundings and warm, joyful traditions enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. Among the most colorful celebrations are the Native American ceremonial dances in December and January at all eight of the Northern New Mexico Pueblos. The nature and meaning of the dances vary, but most feature music, chanting, and beautiful traditional garments. In December, attend a Buffalo Dance at Nambé Pueblo, a Deer Dance at Taos, or a Turtle Dance at Ohkay Owingeh; in January, watch the Corn Dance at Kewa Pueblo. Here, members of Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo take part in the Matachina Dance, performed annually on December 24 and December 25. For schedules and more information on Native dances open to the public, contact the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center, 800-855-7902, indianpueblo.org.—Samantha Schwirck 72

santafean.com

december 2011 /january 2012

LArry M. PHILLIPS

ceremonial dances at the pueblos

D AV I D

S I M P S O N

G O L D VA R I AT I O N S I N T E R F E R E N C E PA I N T I N G S DECEMBER 16, 2011 - JANUARY 16, 2012

C H A R LO T T E J A C K S O N F I N E A R T 505.989.8688 / 554 South Guadalupe, Santa Fe, NM 87501 / www.charlottejackson.com