September 2016 | Vol 3
OUTLOOK SPLURGE September 2016
SIDHARTH MALHOTRA
VOL 3
POISED FOR PERFECTION FASHION
THE SUM OF FALL STYLES THE HOTTEST WATCHES OF THE YEAR
splurge edit
Season to Shine W
hat’s more captivating than a glowing bride? Few occasions in one’s lifetime will guarantee that for once, all eyes will be upon us as we walk to the altar, or around the fire. It’s just a given. Today’s youthful bridal brigade wants to do things a bit differently. Tired of conventions but respectful of traditions, they’re looking to stand out, but in their own style. Some of the last fashion weeks have seen designers come up with innovative accents and details, that give lightness and grace to outfits, not a feeling of being weighed down. With an ever-burgeoning wedding market, marked by the boom in retail exhibitions, couture collections, limited-edition offerings, and jewellery lines, it’s raining bling and bespoke. And sometimes there’s a cultural mix to add to the fun. Our cover personality, tennis superstar Sania Mirza tells us that her own wedding came in two parts, a traditional Hyderabadi Muslim affair and a celebration in Lahore. For our special cover shoot at The St. Regis in Mumbai by photographer Rohan Shrestha, she wore the prettiest, floatiest lehengas, and we discovered that her festive side is yet another facet of her charming personality. And ornaments are now being specially made with young people in mind, a strategy that one of India’s biggest jewellery success stories, PC Jeweller, espouses. Young people also want to know the story behind the sparkle; they want responsibly sourced diamonds, and invest in companies that have made a social impact. Time is ticking by... and sometimes a watch reminds you that you have to make the best out of life – that’s what Oscar Award®-winning actress Gwyneth Paltrow feels about her favourite timepiece. We’ve got the latest novelties from Switzerland, specially for women who want to wear a piece of art, haute joaillerie, or history on their wrist. Time stops for no one, but for one split second, we can live the fairytale. Félicitations…! - Priya Kumari Rana, Executive Editor
contributors
Editor-in-Chief Rajesh Ramachandran Executive Director Indranil Roy Associate Publisher Vidya Menon Executive Editor Priya Kumari Rana Managing Editor Riddhima Seal Business Office Vice Presidents Johnson D Silva, Shishir Saxena National Head Bhavna Oberoi Brand Head Shrutika Dewan Deputy General Manager (Marketing) Jyoti Ahuja Circulation National Head Anindya Banerjee Assistant General Manager G Ramesh (South) Vinod Kumar (North) Production General Manager Shashank Dixit Chief Manager Shekhar Kumar Pandey Deputy Manager Ganesh Shah Assistant Manager Gaurav Shrivas Accounts Assistant General Manager Diwan Singh Bisht Head Office AB-10 Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi 110029, India Tel: 011-33505500 Fax: 011-26191420 Email: outlook@outlookindia.com Other Offices Mumbai Tel: 022-33545000 Fax: 022-33545100 Kolkata Tel: 033-33545400 Fax: 033-24650145 Chennai Tel: 044-33506300 Fax: 044-33506327 Bengaluru Tel: 080-45236100; 45236105
ROHAN SHRESTHA
ESHAA AMIIN
UMESH JIVNANI
In college, he studied under his father Rakesh Shrestha, a prominent photographer. Rohan crafts an inimitable product, and has worked with celebrities, photographing covers and editorials. Sir Cecil Beaton and Richard Avedon are his idols.
This NIFT-educated celebrity stylist has worked with all the top Bollywood stars, including Karisma Kapoor and Lara Dutta, and tennis great Sania Mirza. She also designed the costumes for the Akshay Kumar-starrer Singh is Kinng. (2008).
This prolific writer started his career in 1995, and has written for the top Mumbai (and now Delhi) publications. He is often spotted at fashion weeks and haute société dos around the year.
10 | Outlook Splurge | October 2016
Printed and published by Indranil Roy on behalf of Outlook Publishing (India) Pvt Ltd. Printed at IPP Limited. C4-C11, Phase II, Noida and published from AB-10 Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi 110029 Cover & Layout design @alarinks
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Contents September 2016 Covetables
18 | Fashionably Yours Quirky cravats, iconic pens, Hollywoodesque boots, and regal rings, the season’s must-haves.
18
Splurge Watch
24 | Beau Monde Take a luxury ride through Ireland, dine at a Michelinstar chefs’ competition, and pamper yourself silly.
Cover Story
28 | He’s Got to Have it Dapper Bollywood star Sidharth Malhotra dons wintry trenches, and reveals his love of Harleys.
fashion
24
36 | Here Come the Fall Guys We look at the season’s big ticket menswear offerings, and come away wanting more.
38 | In Sartorial Wonderland September 2016 | Vol 3
OUTLOOK SPLURGE SEPTEmbER 2016
SIDHARTH MALHOTRA
VOL 3
POISED FOR PERFECTION
Splurge unearths a gangster’s paradise when it comes to sharp suits and luxe tuxedos.
Royal Exhibition
FASHION
44 | A Neobaroque Vision
THE HOTTEST WATCHES
Designer Umang Hutheesing’s exhibition of royal Indian costumes at the new International Baroque Museum in Puebla, Mexico captivates the senses.
THE SUM OF FALL STYLES OF THE YEAR
on the cover
28 44
Sidharth Malhotra, photographed by Avinash Gowariker. Styled by Eshaa Amiin. Shirt, pants, trenchcoat, tie: Tommy Hilfiger; Pin: Tie Hub; Belt and bag: Louis Vuitton; Watch: Omega. Makeup by Rizwan Shaikh. Hair by Hakim’s Aalim. Location courtesy Sofitel Mumbai BKC.
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38
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September 2016
Contents 52
50 Wanderlust
50 | A Corner of Québec
72 64
We discover some hidden gems in the quaintest and most charming of Canadian cities, Montréal.
Most Stylish
52 | And There were Three We meet three gentlemen who’re as known for their fashion quotient as they are for individuality.
ON TREND
55 | Accessory Alert Make a statement this season with the riveting Glo accents from Globus.
WatchES
56 | Generating Sound Breguet’s Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon is the first minute repeater designed around sound.
57 | Heritage Offering The Héritage Grande Date 5410 from Breguet is the latest addition to the Héritage line, and boast class.
58 | Presidential Watch Rolex’s Perpetual Day-Date 40 celebrates its 60th anniversary with a green dial and a new movement.
62 | Melodious Supernova The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie creates sound just like a guitar.
64 | Of Novelties and Launches We pick around 30 of our favourite new timepieces from this year’s SIHH and Baselworld watch fairs.
70 | Shining Brightly
60 | Ultimate Bird Song
We chat with Jean-Paul Girardin, vice-president, Breitling, about this year’s innovative launches.
Jacquet Droz dips into its heritage with The Charming Bird, a watch with a miniature singing bird inside.
parting shot
61 | Shooting Star
72 | Latin Diva
Omega’s Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon “Meteorite” is like wearing a piece of space.
Stunning Mexican-American actress Salma Hayek Pinault is all set for three brand-new releases.
14 | Outlook Splurge | September 2016
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Covetables
The
Global
dandy
For the man who has it all, being stylish is not an option. It’s the norm. Here are a few musthaves from fashion maisons around the world, to put you right on top of this month’s best-dressed list.
Wide Brim
P
anama hats have been around since the 16th century, which just goes to show how timeless its design is. Borsalino’s Made in Italy version is woven from pure straw and topped with a heavy grosgrain ribbon, protecting against the winter sun while keeping you calm and unruffled. Available on mrporter.com. Price: £224.95
M
Cravat CAVEAT
ade from lustrous silk-twill, this Alexander McQueen tie is printed with monochromatic moths and a single skull – signature motifs that are often seen in the brand’s other-worldly, moody collections. Make it pop against a dark shirt. Available on mrporter.com. Price: £115.52
WOOL Whorl
T
his Fendi scarf made from camel-coloured wool with braiding, is long and slim, ideal for wrapping around the neck several times, drawing inspiration from the Roman maison’s Fall Winter fashion show looks. Price on request.
PLAID Purity
F
all Winter 2016 at Italian maison Corneliani whispered 1940s elegance with earthy coloured, single and doublebreasted jackets. We love the nostalgic feel of this rust checked jacket, a must-have in this season’s wardrobe. Price on request.
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Covetables
AURIC Aviators
R
eminiscent of the aviator style, the acetate frame of the modern and masculine Evidence sunglasses by Louis Vuitton is sculpted and hand-polished. Price on request.
LUST For Leather
Q
uality craftsmanship and fine materials are what make Italian heritage brand Berluti so special, and this ‘Lorenzo’ belt is no exception. Fitted with a sleek silver buckle, it’s made from smooth, tan 4 cm-wide leather. The slight patina gives it a handsome, rugged finish that improves with age. Wear yours with classic blue denims or tailored trousers. Available at mrporter.com. Price: £413.41
Sicilian CARRYON
F
rom the gardens of Sicily to the ateliers of Dolce & Gabbana, came the inspiration for the Italian design duo’s Fall Winter 2016-2017 collection for men. The label’s signature carretto print that conveys the essence of Sicilian vistas and flora has been reinterpreted in unexpected camouflages, such as on this backpack, that play on shades of dark green, brown, and grey. Price on request.
FACE Off
M
ade from red Roman leather, this slim clutch is decorated with metal appliqué to create the ‘No words’ animoticon inspired by Fendi Faces. The 8” x 4” pouch has a zip fastening and linen lining, and the Fendi Roma logo on the back. The FF buckle is in steel. Price on request.
BOOTED Up
O
’ Keeffe’s Bristol boots have been rendered from rich chocolate suede and finished by hand in Italy. Taking their cue from traditional Chelsea styles, this tactile pair has pull tabs and elasticated woven inserts. This luxury brand with an Irish heritage is beloved by Hollywood A-listers. Available only on mrporter.com. Price: $575
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SIGNET Seal
T
his masculine signet ring features the iconic advertising poster motif from Louis Vuitton’s archives on leather. Make yours a statement piece emblematic of this year’s Fall-Winter 2016 Show. Price on request.
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Covetables
GENTEEL Bulldogs
C
lassic luxury company Dunhill embraces British iconography in a quirky yet sleek manner, with these silver bulldog cufflinks. These will accentuate sharp office suits with wit and whimsy. Get ready to be the focus of watercooler gossip. Available at mrporter.com. Price: £290
BAR None T
he epitome of luxury, this Cocktail Case in Louis Vuitton’s new Monogram Illusion, a matte black leather on which shiny Monogram patterns are printed tone-on-tone, is the latest example of the House’s commitment to l’art de vivre. It holds everything you need to prepare a perfect martini wherever your journey may take you. Price on request.
A LEGEND’S Sign
B
assano-based Italian luxury pen manufacturer Montegrappa, as an homage to late boxing legend Muhammad Ali, has brought out the special Tribute to Muhammad Ali pen in white pearlized resin. The two black rings at the end of the barrel denote the boxing star’s socks, while the pocket clip resembles stitching on his boxing gloves. Price: `1,60,000 (Roller-Ball); `1,92,000 (Sterling Silver Fountain Pen); `13,33,000 (18 kt Gold Pen).
CLOSED Case
P
arisian by birth and upbringing, this small Cognac Limousine briefcase by French luxury leather goods company Moynat has a concave base, and is inspired by the Limousine Trunk. Made of vegetal leather, it has a patented Moynat lock. Price: €8,400
FIERY Footfall
S
tep out in style with this Gucci off-white leather Ace low top sneaker with metallic flames and web detail. On each side, the Gucci colours are flanked by pink leather stripes. The back of the right shoe carries a blue ayer snake detail, while the left carries one in red. Price on request.
22 | Outlook Splurge | September 2016
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Splurge Watch
PINK PLay
F
rench fashion brand Lacoste has just unveiled its Fall Winter 2016 Kids’ Collection with lots of pink, cherry red, blue and white for girls, and primary colours with autumn colours like burgundy, bottle green, and grey for boys. Baseball was a common theme for boys, while tennis ruled for girls, with polo shirts, sweaters, and T-shirts for both. A great start for the new school year. n
aBOARD THE IRISH EXPRESS
I
f you’re headed towards the Republic of Ireland this autumn, you may want to try out the country’s first overnight luxury train, the Belmond Grand Hibernian. WIth its name derived from Hibernia, the classical Latin name for the island of Ireland, this luxe experience on rails journeys through the island, offering two-, four-, and six-night rail trips that go north and south, including the train’s Dublin base, Belfast and Cork. n
THREE CHEERS FOR THE SWISS FOOTBALL TEAM
S
wiss family watchmaking company Carl F. Bucherer, renowned for its quality and innovation since 1888, added another feather to its cap this summer, by becoming the Official Timekeeper of the Swiss National Football Team. The Swiss Football Association (SVF) picked a timepiece by Carl F. Bucherer for the players, for which the Swiss watch brand developed a special edition, the Patravi ScubaTec SFV. Team Suisse is always on time. n
MICHELIN STAR Dining in Thailand
A
t the annual World Gourmet Festival, 19-25 September, nine chefs representing eight countries take over the Anantara Siam Bangkok. Each chef, like Chef Mauro Colagreco shown here (founder of two-Michelin star restaurant Mirazur, France), has been selected from San Pellegrino’s 50 Best Restaurants, and will take over one of the Anantara Siam’s restaurants for lavish dinners. n
STARRY NIGHTS
S
warovski has just launched its Fall Winter 2016-2017 jewellery collection, entitled ‘Crystal Galaxy’, which exudes the mystery of stars, their constellations, and planets in orbit. Creative director Nathalie Colin was naturally inspired by this stellar influence, as she translated the cosmic elements into modern pieces. “New shapes like double open rings and silhouettes evoke eclipses and stars,” she says. n
24 | Outlook Splurge | September 2016
SHARP DRESSING FOR the season
B
ritish fashion brand Marks & Spencer offers a new interpretation of its aesthetic, in its Autumn Winter 2016 collection for men. There’s a focus on simplicity and attention to detail, with relaxed silhouettes and textured fabrics. Colours like rust, green, burgundy, and air force blue look contemporary with sharp styling. We loved the suede shoes and totes! n
LEAVE BORING BEHIND!
HIRSUTE HELP
F H
otel Jen, part of the Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts, unveiled destinationcentric offers for adventurous travellers looking to seize the day, meet locals, and explore the city, while staying at one of the 10 Hotel Jen properties in Asia-Pacific. In Singapore, you can sample local specialties and visit the Adventure Cove Waterpark; or visit a fishmarket in Vilimalé City in Maldives. n
blooming cuppa
F
rench haute-couture maison Dior is collaborating with the Mandarin Oriental, Taipei, for an indulgent treat, the ‘Absolutely Blooming Afternoon Tea’ at Café Un Deux Trois. Guests will partake of exquisitetasting pastries inspired by Miss Dior’s Blooming Bouquet fragrance, and get a special gift set from the perfumer. n
ounded by Ashutosh Vani and Priyank Shah, the Beardo range of grooming products for men uses the finest ingredients to give bearded men the ammo they need to keep their ‘face mane’ soft, shiny, and fragrant. Beardo includes an Oil, Wash, Mustache & Beard Wax, Ultraglow, and Hair Wax. We hear actor Suniel Shetty is a convert and brand friend. n
MAGNIFICENT PAMPERING
I
n the heart of tony Defence Colony in New Delhi sits Magnifique, the newly opened exclusive unisex luxury boutiqe salon by celebrity style partners Jojo and Yatan. Spread over 3,000 sq ft on two floors, and with a VIP room for some privacy whilst pampering, the salon offers top-notch, skin, hair, and beauty services, and has partnered with brands like Lancôme, Thalgo, Cuccio, and Kérastase. Drop in to get a pedicure, or a hot-stone massage. n
ALPINE ART
T
he St Moritz Art Masters, an art biennal now in its ninth edition, has become the highlight of the summer program in the small Swiss resort. With a varied program, this year’s focus is on the USA, with drawings and sculptures by Robert Longo, and video art by Laurie Anderson. The event kicks off at the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains in St Moritz. stmoritzartmasters.org n
MEET ME IN RAJBARI
J
ust an hour from bustling Alipore in West Bengal, lies the Rajbari Bawali, where time seems to have stopped still. In a 300-year-old palace belonging to local zamindars, now restored to its glory by the current owner, experience local Bengali cuisine, 30 spacious rooms and suites (with delightfully high ceilings), a pool, spa, and library; explore crumbling temples and fish ponds in the vast land that it adjoins, and come away refreshed. At night, enjoy a drink on the lawns of the spectacularly lit-up palace. n
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 25
Cover Story
Sweater, trenchcoat, suit: Tommy Hilfiger
Sidharth Malhotra
In a
League of his own
Just three years old in Bollywood, and he’s already come a long way. Having played a slew of roles and experimented with his physique onscreen, he’s now taking up a romantic role that is anything but ordinary. Splurge chats with the boyish, rugged Delhi actor, who enjoys riding his Harley Davidson as much as skydiving in New Zealand. photographed by Avinash Gowariker styled by Eshaa Amiin clothes by Tommy Hilfiger makeup by Rizwan Shaikh hair by Hakim’s Aalim location courtesy Sofitel Mumbai BKC text by Priya Kumari Rana September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 29
Cover Story
W
ould you like to sit here?”asks Sidharth Malhotra as he points to a velour futon inside the plush, compact suite of the Sofitel Mumbai BKC. He’s still wearing the white Tommy Hilfiger shirt and jeans from our shoot earlier, and one wonders if there could be a more perfect-looking man than the sixfoot-plus sculpted vision in front of me. The 31-year-old former ramp model (and some of us have witnessed his evolution proudly from the
This quintessential ‘good boy’, who’s gone out of his comfort zone with challenging roles, is destined for great things.
Shirt, pants, trenchcoat, tie: Tommy Hilfiger Pin: Tie Hub Shoes: Alberto Torresi Belt and bag: Louis Vuitton Watch: Omega
30 | Outlook Splurge | September 2016
sidelines), is a photographer’s delight. Just ask Avinash Gowariker, who’s captured all of tinseltown in his lens; this young man, who’s now all of a sudden a bonafide star of his own making, just lights up the frame, at times intense, and others, more playful. “I hope you don’t mind the stubble and the hair,” he says. They’re for his latest role, he reveals, for a Fox Productions film being shot in Miami, and directed by duo Raj Nidimoru and Krishna DK. The golden highlights in his tousled hair only add to his boyish appeal. When Sidharth talks, it’s with the inflection of his hometown of Delhi, where he grew up, and a low, smooth voice, that’s an asset to any actor. This quintessential ‘good boy’, who’s gone out of his comfort zone to take up challenging, varied roles to widen his repertoire, is destined for great things, even as his much-awaited Baar Baar Dekho, with the ethereal Katrina Kaif releases this month. “I was mesmerized by my dad as a child,” says Sidharth of his father in the Merchant Navy who was away from home for months at a time. Seeing him in exotic locations, driving sports cars in Spain only fuelled his own desire for travel and adventure sports. “I wasn’t good at one particular thing,” he says. “And in retrospect, you see popular actors who never had a favourite subject growing up, and realize, that’s what makes for a good performer.” Sidharth moved to Mumbai in his 20s to work on a film (which never materialized), in a new city where he initially felt a bit lost, just like any young person trying to get a foothold in life. “I wanted to go behind the camera to learn what happens in filmmaking, as I’ve never been to film school,” he says. His acting school was behind the camera as assistant director to Karan Johar in the 2010 Shah Rukh Khan-starrer My Name is Khan. Today, he’s cracked the A-list and joins the holy trinity of Bollywood’s young stars, Varun Dhawan and Alia Bhatt, Karan Johar’s ‘graduates’ from Student of the Year, where Sidharth picked up a ‘Most Promising Debut Male’ award in 2013. “To get a first film with Mr Karan Johar is a one-off thing. It doesn’t happen to anyone, because he’s never launched anyone; he only works with stars,” says Sidharth. “The real struggle in the industry started after Student of the Year, because it’s tough to think of a director better than him. How do you top that?” But Dame Fortune smiled upon him, and in the three short years since, he’s had four releases, a remarkable number for a newcomer, and has worked on everything from comedy (Hasee toh Phasee), to a dark role (Ek Villain), and an action-oriented role (Brothers), to a light-hearted family drama (Kapoor& Sons). “I was lucky with
Turtleneck and chinos: Tommy Hilfiger Watch: TAG Heuer
Cover Story the scripts offered to me and didn’t get typecast, and had a good mix of directors,” says Sidharth. “Brothers was tough and intense (he trained in mixed martial arts – boxing, wrestling, and jujitsu – with a team from the US); Hasee toh Phasee has a finesse to it in many ways, and now, a female director Nitya Mehra for Baar Baar Dekho.” He’s excited that his fans will enjoy watching him at least twice a year, in different roles. Co-starring with Bollywood legends Rishi Kapoor (for the second time around in Kapoor & Sons) and Akshay ‘paaji’ Kumar (in Brothers), has been quite the experience. “We were shooting in Coonoor, and there was this small garden where we would gather post packup,” says Sidharth. “Rishi Kapoor played the great Punjabi host, asking me ‘Tu kya khayega (What will you eat)?’, and when I refused chicken or mutton – I was vegetarian at the time – he thought I wasn’t being Punjabi enough. It was great!” Akshay paaji is more like an older, protective brother. “I’ve picked up the phone to call him when I’m in trouble,” he says. “Because he’s been kind enough to give me guidance.”
Jacket, shirt, pants: Tommy Hilfiger Belt: Hermès Watch and glasses: Carrera Shoes: Alberto Toressi
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Cover Story Turtleneck and chinos: Tommy Hilfiger Watch: TAG Heuer
Despite Sidharth’s obviously international looks, he’s not thinking of doing any projects in Hollywood (“They like to typecast actors from South Asia, so we’re always playing geeks or scientists.”) Unlike Indian actresses like Priyanka Chopra who’ve made a successful foray there, he doesn’t see a leading man from India happening in the US anytime soon. “But there’s so much happening here with the kind of content and the number of scripts we’re doing; I’m not complaining.” Mention Baar Baar Dekho with Katrina, and he smiles. “It’s a fresh pairing in a love story, but also an emotional journey of two people. I’m excited to show you guys the film,” says Sidharth. “You see us as young teens, becoming adults, and growing older. It’s the first time Katrina and I are ageing in one film.” The makeup and prosthetics to age the face were created by Oscar-winning Mark Coulier of The Iron Lady fame. Sidharth owns a Harley Davidson 1500cc Fat Bob in matte black, and you just may see him riding it late at night in Mumbai with his friends. His dream car is the new Aston Martin from the Vanquish series, which looks like a “classic, but is pumped up with technology”. As ambassador for Tourism New Zealand, he’s indulged in adrenaline-pumping skydiving, the Skywalk, and hot-
34 | Outlook Splurge | September 2016
“Baar Baar Dekho is a fresh pairing in a love story, but also an emotional journey. You’ll see us as young teens, becoming adults, and growing older. It’s the first time Katrina and I are ageing in one film.” says Sidharth. The makeup and prosthetics were created by Oscar-winning Mark Coulier.
air ballooning there, and can’t wait for his next trip. “As a big foodie, I find that even a simple restaurant in New Zealand will serve flavourful food with top ingredients,” he says. As for his personal style, he says it varies according to the weight he may or may not need to gain for a role. “When I’m buffed, I like full-sleeve Henleys and hoodies. When I’m leaner I just like jeans and a T-shirt. And loads of gymwear,” he says. His favourite shops internationally are Selfridges in London and Barney’s in New York, and all the unique European boutiques in between. One of his favourite formal looks was an all-white Dior suit with a red tie that he donned recently. On his wrist, he prefers a red Swiss Army watch (do we spot a red trend here?), and classics from Jaeger-LeCoultre to Hublot. He says that for today’s looks, he’s loved the Tommy Hilfiger trenchcoats that are longer, where you can put the collars up. “I’ve never worn so many layers and sweaters in Mumbai, so this was a first,” he laughs. “For me, this was a trip to London in a photoshoot in Mumbai.” One can’t help but ask, for all his female fans, obvs, if he’s currently single? “It depends on who’s asking,” he replies, with a broad grin. Here’s hoping, ladies. n
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fashion
Autumnal Tales Splurge summarizes the key trends from the Fall 2016-2017 European menswear shows and collections – think splashes of vivid colour, a sprinkling of checks, and a flurry of technical artistry. text by Ranak Mann checks on belted winter coats. Gucci also favoured tartan checks on its crimson runway; a standout piece was a suit in a black and ochre houndstooth pattern. Tod’s, too, was ‘chequered’ as this Italian maison favoured cool grey checks.
KEEPING IT REAL
A
t Europe’s fashion weeks, designers dipped into decades past, while others reinvented a tactile, plush future, using the best craftsmanship at their disposal.
CHECKMATE Checks proved to be a staple favourite on the ramp, and a host of new renditions emerged from classic checks and tartans, from red to ochre, and muted grey. Inspired by Peter Schlesinger’s ‘60s and ‘70s visual diary, A Checkered Past, Bally’s creative designer Pablo Coppola presented at Milan Fashion Week a collection of fitted suits in black and white houndstooth, and tartan, sometimes paired with pop-y jackets in purple and turquoise. French maison Dior’s Homme show combined leather jackets and quilted parkas with red and black micro-check wool shirts and pants, as well as larger
36 | Outlook Splurge | September 2016
Diesel Black Gold’s PreFall lineup was all about utilitarian fashion. The collection is both functional and luxurious, and is inspired by New York City bicycle messengers of the 1990s.
Actor Jack Huston for Tod’s FW16 campaign
Gucci photograph Glen Luchford
A look from Gucci’s FW16 campaign
A fashion runway usually sees every major reference to lifestyle and culture over the decades brought alive in the outfits it parades, and for the man who likes the sporty, outdoorsy look, luxury maisons like Diesel Black Gold created an entire Pre-Fall line based on utilitarian fashion at Milan Fashion Week. Diesel’s new collection is both functional yet luxurious. Andreas Melbostad, creative director of Diesel Black Gold was inspired by New York bicycle messengers of the ’90s. The house’s classics parkas, field jackets, bombers, and military vests have been reworked with a sharp sensibility. The leather ankle boots paired with skinny jeans only add to the urban-chic feel.
WEAR YOUR WEALTH The metrosexual man has never had it so good. Some fashion houses wove into their designs beautiful craftsmanship and architectural details that stood out, on the runway or on the street. Tod’s revealed micro-weight leather down jackets, thrown in with crease-resistant, waterproof technical tweed. Tod’s overcoats and jackets were regal in demeanour, as were offerings by Stefano Ricci. Stefano Ricci’s eveningwear collection, unveiled at a historical Florentine silk mill (that pays homage to the brand’s ‘Made in Florence’ tradition by master weavers) brought out cashmere trousers paired with a sharp two-button club jackets. Their sportswear included deerskin leather details and elkskin sneakers, combined with soft suede and cashmere. Another luxury Italian menswear brand, Corneliani kept the mood retro and used luxe, textured fabrics that highlighted their linear midlength car jackets. The suits were again slim-fitted with tapered trousers with a 1940s bent. A brand known for its high-quality suits, Canali brought out sharp, serious suits at Milan Fashion Week in fabrics like wool, silk, cashmere, and denim wool. Bathed in sombre, moody shades of ink blue, ebony, and indigo (again, with checks aplenty), with pops of amber and mustard, this force majeur of Italy’s tailoring scene has dressed the likes of Barack Obama and Vladimir Putin.
Diesel Black Gold Pre-Fall 2016
Gucci FW16
WINTER PRISM
Zegna FW16
Corneliani FW16
Corneliani FW16
Italian luxury maison Ermenegildo Zegna, in their Z Zegna showing, used cheery outerwear in techno fabrics and cozy down coats in preparation for the freezing European winter ahead. Models strutted down the street in soda-pop orange and neon-olive green. Tod’s and Corneliani stuck to Fall favourites ochre, brown, green, and blue, with tinges of orange and black. Louis Vuitton is constantly discovering new ways of reinventing its iconic Monogram. One of these was the new and slightly subtler version, the Monogram Eclipse in grey and black, that debuted at the French maison’s FW16 show in Paris. The collection also included bags in navy and olive leather. Gucci is always full of surprises: their multi-hued animal print jackets lit up the runway, while beloved animated beagle Snoopy made a special appearance on the ramp. This Italian luxury house drenched its Fall Winter 2016 collection with vibrant hues, and creative director Alessandro Michele continues to push the boundaries of convention with his rich tapestries that always tell a story. This season, he brought back the ’70s with vivid prints, bootleg jeans, capes in crochet, and floral embroidery on jackets. Plaid appeared in a double-breasted avatar, and quaint knit hats in pastel hues recalled colourful animal faces. n
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 37
FASHION
The Italian job awaits...in double-breasted suits and pinstripe jackets. (Clockwise from left) On Mudit Shirt: Uniform Republique Tuxedo: Dior Homme Shoes: Louis Vuitton On Ruslana Dress and bag: Fendi Boots: Dior On Arjun Shirt: Uniform Republique Suit: Canali Shoes: Ermenegildo Zegna On Amit Shirt, tie, and suit: Corneliani Shoes: Louis Vuitton Watch: Omega.
R
Eden U RN T O T E
We all yearn for that special slice of sartorial heaven. This pre-Fall season, go back to the future in retro and moody ‘40s proportions, luxe textured fabrics, slate greys, and cobalt blues. Bring back suits with a smoothness at the waist, tapered pants, double-breasted jackets, and waistcoats. Girls are feminine in louche dresses and wisps of lace. And when you’re playing for keeps, like Mr International India Mudit Malhotra, a sleek tuxedo is all you need, even if you’re in a gangster’s paradise.
photographed by ROHAN PINGLE styled by RANJUNEE CHAKMA makeup by KANGNA KOCHHAR hair by CASH KANDERA models MR INTERNATIONAL INDIA 2016 MUDIT MALHOTRA, ARJUN LAMA AND RUSLANA (BRAVE MODELS), AMIT DAhiya location courtesy THE WESTIN SOHNA RESORT & SPA, SOHNA-GURGAON
FASHION
Show up with swag, in slate, teal, and cobalt, but never be an arriviste. On Arjun Shirt: Uniform Republique; Waistcoat: Ermenegildo Zegna; Pants: Canali; Shoes: Ermenegildo Zegna; Watch: Omega; Sunglasses: Hugo Boss (Safilo). On Mudit Shirt: Uniform Republique; Suit: Hugo Boss; Shoes: Louis Vuitton; Watch: Model’s own; Sunglasses: Givenchy (Safilo) On Amit Knit tee: Canali; Suit: Hugo Boss; Shoes: Christian Louboutin; Sunglasses: Givenchy (Safilo).
A great tux is a man’s best-kept weapon. Shirt: Uniform Republique Tuxedo: Dior Homme Watch: Omega
FASHION
Cloak and dagger, in leather and lace, denim and shades. On Ruslana Lace top and leather pants: Dior Bag: Dior Heels: Christian Louboutin Watch: Stylist’s own On Arjun Sweater: Ermenegildo Zegna Denims: Armani Jeans Shoes: Christian Louboutin Belt: Ermenegildo Zegna Sunglasses: Givenchy (Safilo) Watch: Omega
Ready to take off, and make a heavenly escape in chevron prints, polka dots, and 3D detailing. On Arjun Sweater: Ermenegildo Zegna; Pants and bag: Samant Chauhan; Watch: Omega; Shoes: Alberto Torresi On Ruslana Dress: Fendi; Bag: Dior; Watch: Seiko; Heels: Christian Louboutin On Mudit Bow-tie, shirt, blazer, and pants: Ashish N Soni; Watch: Omega; Shoes: Rosso Brunello. Location courtesy: The Westin Sohna Resort & Spa, Sohna-Gurgaon.
ROYAL EXHIBITION
baroque Baron of
Ahmedabad designer Umang Hutheesing opens one of the world’s newest and most exciting museums in Puebla, Mexico, with an exhibition oozing with grandeur, royal pomp, fine craftsmanship, and reflective of the living heritage of India. Splurge travels to Puebla for an exclusive photoshoot with the city’s most fashionable. photographed by Beatriz Posada Alonso | text by Priya Kumari Rana 44 | Outlook Splurge | September 2016
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s a 20-something just out of Boston University, he wowed New York society in the ‘80s with his outré costumes, Golconda diamond necklaces, and charming manner. His friends included JFK Jr, Prince Ali Reza, son of the last Shah of Iran, and Karina Soekarno, daughter of General Sukarno, the former President of Indonesia. And the one who nudged him towards a career in design was none other than the late CZ Guest, who had financed Ralph Lauren and Carolina Herrera, both US design stars. “CZ was the toast of America, and gave me the confidence to be bold,” says Ahmedabad-based Umang Hutheesing, scion of the redoubtable Hutheesing Design Company formed in 1841 in partnership with Tiffany & Co and Lockwood de Forest. And bold he has been, and
gone where no Asian designer has gone before, namely creating 300 museum pieces for the opening exhibition of the world’s first baroque museum, the Baroque International Museum in Puebla, two hours’ drive from Mexico City, and a historically strategic town a few centuries ago. So this is where the past collides with the present, in a spectacular, baroque interpretation,
Umang Hutheesing with the Baroque International Museum in the background, in a heavily embellished emeraldgreen silk velvet Imperial cape, a bandhgala, and breeches (jodhpurs)
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 45
ROYAL EXHIBITION with the grandeur and imperfection of what the word ‘baroque’ signifies (in Portuguese it means a ‘rare, imperfect, monstrous pearl’ that went on to become highly sought after). We’re inside the avant-garde, white edifice of the museum that looks like pleated, curved paper, designed and executed by Pritzker-winning Japanese architect Toyo Ito in two years at the cost of $105 million, with 18,200 sq ft of built-up area and sitting on five hectares of land. Commissioned by the Governor of Puebla, who handed the reins to Mexican Ambassador Jorge Alberto Lozoya, executive secretary of the State Council of Culture and Arts of the State of Puebla, the latter conceived and nurtured this project. “A year ago, there was nothing here,” says Ambassador Lozoya as he points to the landscaped Below: Artist Esteban Fuentes de María wears a handwoven Benarasi brocade sherwani with silk velvet shawl; Below right: Architect Luis Rodrigo Gonzalez in a sheer woven chanderi jama (angarkha), hand-embroidered in marodi work
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garden surrounding the museum.” And now, there are a million and a half visitors in just six months since it opened. Ito referenced his own Buddhist philosophy and came up with the pleated design that shows the excess of the Spanish chevalier’s collar, as an ode to baroque sensibilities. And excess is what abounds at the exhibition of Umang Hutheesing, showcased on 48 mannequins, that are grouped by each significant royal era in India, in terms of costumes. “They are relevant to a particular period, so you have the angarkha (tunic) in the Rajput period, then the Peshwa outfit of the Marathas (a jama or angarkha wih a more rounded neck), the Islamic influence with the choga (coat), and finally the European-influenced fitted sherwani and cape, which
“Diane Wheeler once said, ‘Shocking pink is the navy blue of India’,” says Umang referring to a pink zardozi sherwani. “Indian men have always been wearing shocking pink.”
also symbolizes a link to Spain and Mexico,” says Umang. The motifs also change as per the era, so you have the chaand tara (crescent) in Islam and the lotus and badaam or paisley for the Hindu period. His saris are paired with embroidered capes in velvet silk from Italy, topped with a jewelled tiara. Benarasi brocades and Gujarati kimkhabs abound, as does chanderi silk for the lehengas. A beautiful pink zardozi silk sherwani catches the eye. “Diane Wheeler once said, ‘Shocking pink is the navy blue of India’,” says Umang. “Indian men have worn shocking pink traditionally, and it’s a man’s colour.” Then there is the golden Benarasi silk angarkha with 181 kalis (pleats), again worn with a cape and churidar, a version of which he has made for Shriji Arvind Singh of Mewar for a royal family wedding. For women, there are lehengas in chanderi with a modern kurti kanchli blouse that can even be worn with jeans, as a
Sofía Banck, university student and daughter of the mayor of Puebla, wears a royal blue lehenga with a bolero blouse, paired with a silk net dupatta with resham and marodi work. Hector Rodrigo Ortiz Sánchez de Cima, news anchor, wears a royal blue silk velvet sherwani and a velvet marodi work shawl
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 47
ROYAL EXHIBITION “The costumes will stay as part of my museum collection. A museum piece isn’t for sale, and each is unique,” says Umang.
Juan Carlos Haces, restaurateur, wears a heavily embroidered zardozi pink raw silk sherwani with an emeraldgreen velvet cape
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modern version, and those with kedia tops (which inspired John Galliano to create the peplum top, after he saw Umang’s famous Paris fashion show in 2010, that cemented international fashion’s love affair with India.) “We had our our poshak khaanas (ateliers) growing up,” says Umang of his quest for the best kaarigars (artisans) who were given original royal costumes owned by the family, and asked to revive them, raising their own standards. “The costumes will stay as part of my museum collection,” says Umang. “A museum piece is not to be sold, and no two pieces are alike.” If someone likes a piece, Umang may make a limited-edition reproduction of it. He makes between 30-40 pieces per year, where customers include 11 of the top ruling families of the world, from Bhutan, to Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Oman, and French nobility. Umang has shown at Buckingham Palace for the Queen’s coronation, and for Spring Summer 2014, designed an entire collection for British luxury clothing brand Holland & Holland (patronized by the likes of Prince Charles), which was hailed by the press as the finest collection of the year. With a heritage that goes back to the mid1800s, when Umang’s ancestors decided to look after 600,000 people who escaped the famine by moving to Ahmedabad, and founded the Hutheesing Design Company as a public works project – by giving them employment building temples – it is only natural that a museum such as the Baroque International Museum would come calling. With its nine gold medals won at the Paris World Expo of 1900, Umang’s was the finest design firm in the world. “The world of neobaroque is returning,” says Ambassador Lozoya, who was introduced to Umang through his museum project manager, Miguel Angel Fernandez, one of Latin America’s top museologists. “And with it, challenging attitudes, and historical interpretations. Yours is a nuclear power, a world economy, and suddenly this man has recreated this whole fashion industry. For us Mexicans, it’s an astonishing experience to see people’s costumes reimagined 200 years later.” And he’s building bridges between the two countries: from hosting the President of Mexico and the world’s richest man, Carlos Slim at the museum opening a few months ago, to inviting Puebla’s crème de la crème for the closing party and announcing three artist-in-residence programs in Ahmedabad to leading Pueblan artists Esteban Fuentes, Sary Haddad, and Luis Rodrigo Gonzalez, sponsored by the Hutheesing Heritage Foundation, Umang is bowling the Mexicans over. “There is a grammar to Indian design,” says Umang, “And I want to share it with the world.” With an exhibition supported by Bahrain’s ruling family behind him, and 3-4 more planned over the next two years, starting with one in Japan, the world is Umang’s oyster, one that hides the rare baroque pearl. n
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wanderlust
usings S ontréal
Modern, with old-world charm and a French soul, this Canadian city is dotted with heritage buildings, a stunning Biodome, lakes for ice skating rink in the winter, and delectable, eclectic cuisine.
The verdant Biodome has five eco-systems with plants and animals
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Take a horse-drawn carriage through the old quarter
itting in the southwest of the French-speaking Canadian province of Québec, Montréal, named after the triple-peaked Mont Royal in the heart of the city, is a jewel with a rich, historical past, filled with cobblestone streets, 18th-century buildings, and antique alleys. Famous for hosting the 1976 Summer Olympic Games and the 1967 World Expo (the buildings of which are cleverly utilized to this day), it’s a place where you can be entranced by the beats of the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, or try your ice-skating prowess by the St Lawrence river. Ride in a horse-drawn carriage through the historic quarter, and watch history come alive (there are some novel apps for you to try) from centuries ago. In many ways, the 372-year-old city is a slice of old Europe with a contemporary twist. No wonder it was named by UNESCO as one of the world’s top Design Cities. Undoubtedly, one of the most visited attractions of the city is the Basilica of Notre Dame in the historic quarter or Old Montréal, founded in 1642, with interiors a gilded confection in blue and gold, and stained-glass windows made in Limoges, France. If you’re a history buff, you can’t miss the Marché Bonsecours, one of Canada’s 10 finest heritage buildings, which today houses 15 Made in Québec boutiques of fashion, crafts, and jewellery, with the delightful Sucrerie Haut Bois Normand stocking maple syrup products. You can ride in a horse-drawn carriage (half an hour, or an hour; in
The Mo
A deli sandwich, one of the specialties of the place
the winter, there’s a blanket to keep you warm) – to the Old Port of Montréal, which welcomes five million visitors a year, where you can take a stroll or a boat ride, or check out the IMAX theatre and the Montréal Clock Tower. At night, take in the sights from the Terrasse sur l’Auberge, a stylish rooftop terrace overlooking the St Lawrence River, and the site for the stunning International Fireworks Festival held during the summer. This is also where you try your luck in the gigantic ice-skating rink in winter. Or you can roam the streets, iPhone in hand, with the Montréal en Histoire app (free
The Centre d’Histoire de Montréal, a museum located in Old Montréal, leads you to discover the city’s many identities
The Aquarium at the Biodome features American ocean fish
from iTunes), that locates 50 points of interest, and displays historic scenes of that very location as it was 150 years ago (just hold up your phone on the building of your choice) in augmented reality. You can even use the inbuilt Cité Mémoire, where you can walk around and experience visual, cinematic tableaux of famous Canadians and events projected on buildings and nature, such as trees. For a fun daytime activity, take a cab or subway to the world-famous Biodome, inside a former velodrome (a remnant of the 1976 Olympics), and travel four American eco-systems from sub-polar planes to tropical locales, with 4,800 animals such a monkeys, penguins, and alligators, The eclectic and 750 plants, and an aquarium, all rolled into Plateau one! Next to it is the Montréal Botanical Garden neighbourhood with 22,000 species of plants, and a fascinating Chinese garden (the largest outside China), with teems with exotic bonsai and penjing plants. Again, if you’re an old-world architecture buff like we are, you’ll hot foot it to the houses, locals, Buckminster Fuller-designed 62.8 m high geodesic dome, the Biosphere, created for the 1967 World and artists. Expo as the US pavillion, in the Parc Jean-Drapeau Plum centre is on the Ile St Hélène, and is today a museum dedithe 84-acre La cated to water and environmental issues. One of Montréal’s most fascinating spots Fontaine Park, would be the Avenue Mont Royal, after which the which turns city was named, and its surroundings. The Plateau into an outdoor is an eclectic neighbourhood teeming with oldworld houses, locals, artists, and young professionskating rink in als. Plum centre is the 84-acre La Fontaine Park, the winter. which metamorphoses into an outdoor skating The Terrasse sur l’Auberge overlooks the St Lawrence river and is great for fireworks displays rink in the winter. Hunger pangs? Head to one of the most famous ‘poutine’ eateries, La Banquise, for typical Québécois fare (poutine combines fries, local cheese, and a sauce), and local brews. On Mont Royal avenue, drop by the Le Pétrin Fou bakery, and taste chia, red clover, or chocolate bread. There’s also a Corsican restaurant, Plein Sud, run by a Corsican couple who serve their grandmom’s recipes, like Pissaladière, Salade Niçoise, and Profiteroles. A must-visit is Schwartz’s, a Hebrew delicatessen founded in 1928, the oldest deli in Canada on Saint Laurent Boulevard. Try their smoked meat sandwiches with cherry soda. Lastly, Montréal is also one of the largest subterranean cities in the world, with 32 kilometres thronged by 500,000 people in the cold winter (temperatures dip to -30°C), to access offices, stations, and restaurants in Downtown Montréal, and is beautifully well-lit and climate-controlled. This perfect Canadian city has it all figured out! n
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 51
MOST STYLISH
A few
Good Men Clothes maketh the man, they say. Splurge brings to you three well-heeled gentlemen with impeccable sartorial tastes. photographs by Kunaal Bose text by Ranak Mann Sanjay Kapoor
Corporate Powerhouse
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ounder and managing director of luxury retail conglomerate Genesis Colors and Genesis Luxury, Sanjay Kapoor is quite the understated dresser. But he does like to add a dash of colour to finish his look. It will come as no surprise that he owns a couple of hundred ties that are mostly from luxury brand Satya Paul. He chooses brightly coloured ties in understated prints that contrast well with his suits. Some of the international brands that can be found in his wardrobe include Canali, Bottega Veneta, Berluti, Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, Tumi, and Coach. He is an avid believer of Italy’s famed su misura or Made to Measure service. “Canali is my personal favourite and their products are 100 percent made in Italy. Hence nothing matches the cut of a Canali Suit,” says Kapoor. If you were to find him wearing a Rolex Yacht-Master II, it would be because that is one of his favourite buys. He is most comfortable in brogues and prefers his shoes to be brown. How would Sanjay Kapoor dress for a social event? He will be in a smart pair of trousers or jeans with a plain shirt and a jacket, completing the look with fine leather shoes, such as moccasins or his favourite – the all-time classic brogues. n
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The dapper Sanjay Kapoor has an enviable collection of colourful ties
Nikhil Mehra Easy Rider
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ften spotted on lists of India’s best-dressed men – Nikhil Mehra needs no introduction. A fashion maverick, he is credited for dressing leading sports personalities and a host of Bollywood celebrities from Amitabh Bachchan and Hrithik Roshan, to Priyanka Chopra and Deepika Padukone. With a Masters in fashion from the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandise (FIDM), Los Angeles, he and his brother Shantanu formed their design company Shantanu & Nikhil in 2000. He says that his personal style is a lot of mix and match, but to sum it up in two words, it’s street dandy. He is often seen at events wearing fitted, printed jackets and slim pants. A proud owner of a Harley Davidson motorcycle, you would probably catch him riding in a well-fitted T-shirt and denims along with riding boots that act as his protective gear. Some of the international brands that he gravitates towards are Bottega Veneta and vintage Omega. The vintage Omega watch that he purchased in Florence is his most prized accessory. Mehra’s words ring true when he tells us the difference between fashion and style. There is a fine line between the two: fashion is what people tell you and style is what you already possess. “I like to dress myself. I would say I am a very conscious dresser, and make sure I feel good in whatever I wear,” says Mehra. To go from average to stylish, it’s all about having the right attitude, and a willingness to experiment. For example, what should one wear with a well-fitted plaid jacket? To make the outfit pop, try pants or a shirt in a solid, jewel tone. Mehra also gets accolades for his immaculate grooming. His secret? A Dior toner does the trick,while his signature, go-to scent is his John Varvatos cologne. n
Nikhil Mehra contrasts his easy, biker look with fitted, sleek suits
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MOST STYLISH
Sunil Sethi Heritage Homme
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he silver-haired doyen of the Indian fashion industry, Sunil Sethi has wowed the public off the ramp with his inimitable style. “The most important thing is that I wear India on my sleeve,” he says. A proud supporter of ‘Made in India’, Sunil Sethi, President, Fashion Design Council of India, wears creations by Indian fashion designers, from Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rohit Bal, and Samant Chauhan, to Aneeth Arora, and the softer, ‘luxury’ khadis, either tailored or from a designer (his shirts are mostly khadi). Experimental in his style, Sethi is synonymous with bandhgalas, bandis (Nehru jackets), and printed jackets. One of the first to espouse the trend of the Nehru jacket, he soon graduated to bolder designs to include bandis in patchwork and printed suits by designers like Troy Costa and Ashish N Soni. He likes to combine different elements such as a shirt made by his tailor with trousers from the Japanese brand Uniqlo, teamed with Prada shoes and Prada sunglasses. He never wears jewellery, but likes to sport watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Mont Blanc, or the double-strap Hermès. Colour-wise, he sticks to his favourite colour blue, and also likes black and grey. Not a “brand person” per se, he does bend the rules when it comes to his selection of man-bags from Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta, Armani Exchange, and Hidesign. The versatility and high-quality craftsmanship of international brands, are what attracts him. There are certain faux pas that do not escape him. White socks with formal clothes are a no-no (“They look hideous”), leaving a brand tag on the sleeve of a jacket is a sin, and fastening your jacket up to the last button is just not necessary. This is from a man who can carry off printed suits and smart sneakers with great élan. As the President of the FDCI, he can always get advice from fashion designers, but he likes to break the rules where possible. “Today’s younger generation needs no tips,” he says. “They read a lot, follow trends, and are well-groomed.” n
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Sunil Sethi likes khadi shirts by Indian designers, and printed suits by Troy Costa, Suket Dhir, and Ashish N Soni
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WatchES
A ‘Sound’ Tradition The Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon from Breguet is all set to return to the forefront by year end, in its advanced avatar. Representing much more than a grande complication model, the Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 pushes boundaries when it comes to innovation.
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he Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 is all geared to be the first minute repeater developed “around a predetermined sound”. Boasting reworked gong springs, designed to optimize sound emission, the minute repeater is the result of 10 years of acoustic research. In keeping with Swiss horologist Abraham-Louis Breguet’s signature invention, the timepiece also features a 60-second tourbillion along with an automatic winding peripheral rotor system. It comes in a 44 mm, 18 kt rose-gold case. The Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon prides itself on six new patents and five major new innovative elements never previously seen in a wristwatch repetition mechanism. Using specially developed sound generators, watchmakers experimented with more than 200,000 combinations of frequencies, which they then classified into categories according to psychoacoustic criteria. The sounds were listened to and evaluated so as to determine the combination of notes that best met the development objectives. The choice made after this selection process then guided the development and the construction of the model. This unprecedented approach, along with an understanding and mastery of the parameters involved in sound production, determined the choice of every aspect of the timepiece, from the innovations that were to be integrated through, to the choice of components. The gong springs – a Breguet invention and an essential part of minute repeater mechanisms – have been entirely reworked. The gong springs of this Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon are also distinctive in that they are shaped like lobes in dimensions specially designed to enrich the sound and extend its duration. Based on the acoustic research
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Breguet’s Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon has a dial in silvered 18 kt gold, and an alligator strap
conducted by Breguet for more than ten years, the gong springs are made from the same rose or white gold alloy as the case and then rhodium-plated. The Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087 is a tribute to Swiss watch manufacturer Breguet’s long history. n
A Classic
Timepiece with a twist
Moving with the times, here is a technically superior offering from the House of Breguet, one of the oldest watch-making manufactures in the world. The Héritage Grande Date 5410 is the latest addition to the Héritage line which boasts class and precision.
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The Breguet Héritage Grande Date has a tonneau shape with engine-turned motifs on the dial
he new Héritage line by Breguet gives a 21st century twist to a classic repertoire. Curved along two axes in a tonneau or barrel shape ensuring a perfect fit on the wrist, Héritage timepieces are the epitome of technical mastery. Breguet strove to broaden the range of complications with the Héritage Grande Date 5410 model, which takes refinement to another level altogether. The keenly appreciated date indication enthroned at 12 o’clock enlivens a finely crafted silvered gold face reflecting the double curvature of the case. Delicate engineturned motifs create a wealth of structural and depth effects that both highlight and delineate the other functions of the model, and thus ensure enhanced legibility. The chapter ring, bearing large transferred Roman numerals coated with a luminescent substance, surrounds the minute scale. These indications are complemented by a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The Héritage Grande Date
5410 model is powered by the Calibre 5166, a movement endowed with the technological innovations in the field of materials achieved by Breguet over the past years. A silicon balancespring notably enhances the model’s performance, empowering it with exceptional precision and reliability. Clothed in 18 kt rose or white gold, the 45 x 32 mm Héritage Grande Date 5410 timepiece rounds out the collection composed of both men’s and women’s models. The large date thus joins existing complications such as a chronograph, a tourbillon, and a retrograde moon phase. Breguet was founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet in Paris in 1775. Currently part of The Swatch Group, its timepieces are now (since 1976) produced in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland. It also produced the first wristwatch in 1810. Breguet watches are often easily recognized for their coinedge cases, guilloché dials, and blue pomme hands, often now referred to as ‘Breguet hands’. n
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 57
WatchES
A Date With
History
Celebrating 60 years of ‘The President’s watch’ or the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, Rolex rolls out the Day-Date 40 with a distinctive dial in its signature olive green colour and a new mechanical movement.
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The Rolex Perpetual Day-Date 40 has a power reserve of 70 hours
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he Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date that signifies power and influence has been a mark of great prestige. This watch from the Oyster collection has represented the summit of the Rolex art of watchmaking since 1956. In honour of its 60th anniversary, Rolex launched the Day-Date 40 with a bright new dial in green, Rolex’s hallmark colour, at Baselworld 2016. This watch is available in 18 kt Everose or white gold, with the characteristic fluted bezel associated with the model since 1956. It has an inbuilt calendar that displays the date and the day spelt out in full. The classic 40 mm Oyster case, signifies the waterproof character and also represents the Rolex certified Superlative Chronometer that all Oyster Perpetual models hold. The watch is equipped with a new mechanical movement: Calibre 3255 and has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The Rolex Day-Date has been worn by many presidents and visionaries worldwide. It is highly distinctive, in particular thanks to its emblematic President links bracelet with an evocative name that, together with the eminent figures who have worn it, ensured the Day-Date became known as ‘The
Presidents’ Watch’. The Day-Date was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate the day of the week spelt out in full in a window on the dial in addition to the date; this was a technical feat at the time of its launch in 1956. The name is inspired from the calendar functions on the dial of this timeless classic. This calendar display, prompted by the founder of Rolex himself, was unique at the time for a wristwatch. With the DayDate, Hans Wilsdorf designed a highprestige Oyster Perpetual that offered a particularly useful function for people in positions of responsibility: “a clear and legible indication of the day and date at a glance”. The Day-Date 40 is a watch that commands respect, one that combines a rich heritage with luxurious, modern waves of fashion and style. n
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WatchES
Charmed by
Bird Song The lifelike motion of the little singing bird is a testament to Jaquet Droz’s technical mastery. Inset: Caseback with a tiny engraved bird
Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz’s legacy of artistic talent meets the wonders of technology, in this collectors’ piece that features a miniature, singing bird encased within the dial.
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ears in development, this high-technology, miniaturized version of an antique mechanism used to create small, singing birds was finally unveiled last year. Dipping into its own heritage of miniaturized bird-making, where Mr Jaquet-Droz himself made singing bird boxes and pocket watches, the Swiss watchmaker’s Charming Bird features a complication that is used purely for a delightful spectacle. Hailing from a Swiss family of peasant-watchmakers during the Age of Enlightenment, Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721-1790) embraced the vast naturalist movement
prevalent amongst 18th-century scientists, artists and philosophers. Sensitive to the beauty of plants and the animal world, he was the first watchmaker to introduce a singing bird on a pocket watch – a virtuoso complication also used as an ornament on snuff boxes and other objets d’art. So it’s only fitting that the recently presented Charming Bird should win the Mechanical Exception prize at the 2015 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève). The brand’s craftsmen have reinvented the cult dial of the Grande Seconde and its tutelary 8 within, devoting the upper section to displaying the hour and minutes, and the bottom to a veritable singing bird, a small wonder housed within a sapphire crystal dome, in a generous 47 mm case. The dial is adorned with delicate mother-of-pearl which evokes the landscape of the Swiss countryside. The song of the bird is generated by air compression and not by vibration, an innovation made possible by introducing three minute sapphire crystal tubes. Air enters the first tube, then is stored inside the second, and finally pushed into the third, thus regulating the melody according to the volume of air and the speed of the piston. The miniaturization of elements and the extreme mechanical complexity of the Charming Bird are matched only by its aesthetic sophistication, a result of the well-honed expertise of the Ateliers d’Art. So not only does the bird sing and flap its wings, it’s also a truly miniaturized sculpture. The watch comes in a choice of either red or white gold, with each version limited to 8 unique pieces. This timepiece is the perfect opportunity to gift oneself a pure Jaquet Droz watchmaking delight, as well as the ultimate, intangible luxury: the dulcet melody of time itself... n
The Grey meteorite dial of the Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon has two subdials, for chronograph and time zone functions
Moonstruck Omega unveils the Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon “Meteorite” model, introducing an otherworldliness to its Speedmaster series, and a slice of heaven on your wrist.
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he watch is as fascinating as can get. The name actually comes from its meteorite dial that is made from a rock that supposedly fell from space in Namibia a long time ago. The Moonwatch collection is revered by a new generation of wearers for its design and innovation. Today, yet another exceptional model has been launched, this time offering a real piece of space. The name itself suggests a deep spatial journey – a Moonwatch that has hurtled through meteorite showers on its way to the distant red planet Sedna. In doing so, it has combined the elements of these celestial inspirations. The 44.25 mm Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon “Meteorite” introduces a number of new features to the Speedmaster collection. For example, this is the first time that a tachymeter scale has been created using Omega Ceragold™. For those not familiar with this technology, Omega Ceragold™ is a special way of decorating ceramic watch parts with 18 kt gold. The 18 kt Sedna™ gold bezel is layered with a silicon nitride bezel ring. This is harder and lighter than ceramic, and is considered an important material in Omega’s watchmaking. The Omega Ceragold™ tachymeter scale has
then been added. The mellow, reddish tone of 18 kt Sedna™ gold is also used to create the brushed indexes and hands of the watch. It houses the Omega Co-Axial Calibre 9300. Of course, the highlight of the watch is the meteorite dial. On each timepiece, the dial has been made from a solid piece of extra-terrestrial stone. It is estimated that between 2,000 and 5,000 meteorites over 1 kg fall to Earth every year. Around 75 percent of those disappear over the ocean or desert. Some, however, are discovered and prized for their rare beauty. For the meteorite dial, the watchmaking pioneers sourced slices of the Gibeon meteorite that fell during prehistoric times in Namibia. The local Nama people once used it to craft tools and weapons. More recently however, the allure of this iron meteorite has been prized by designers for its classic Widmanstätten pattern.The Widmanstätten pattern, named after the Austrian scientist who discovered it, refers to the ribbon-like flecks that are found in this kind of meteorite after an acid etch. With the Speedmaster’s connection to space, this timepiece pays ode to the collection’s past, and gets as close to owning a piece of the universe as possible. n
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 61
WatchES
Modern
Chimes
With the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, Audemars Piguet has put together a fascinating fusion of future-forward design and avant-garde sound technology to create pure auricular magic.
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The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie has a titanium case and a black ceramic crown
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his year, a slew of horological developments highlight the out-of-the-box ideas, independent attitude, and savoir-faire that sets Swiss watch powerhouse Audemars Piguet apart as a dynamic force in the watchmaking world. What makes the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie special is the sound quality achieved by its sonnerie complication, Calibre 2937, which is also where it gets its name from. Since the manufacture was founded, generations of watchmakers have progressed complex mechanisms created in Le Brassus, Switzerland into future-forward technologies through every decade of the 20th and 21st centuries. That tradition continues through the pioneering chiming watches sound study program, started in 2006, in collaboration with the École Polytechnique FÊdÊrale de Lausanne. Today, sound-measurement facilities are installed at the manufacture, where amplification methods, such as an anechoic chamber and microphone recordings, assist the watchmakers, artisans, technicians, and academics in creating chiming technologies for the future. Restrictions of necessary technology, such as waterproofing, which diffuses sound, are being overcome as acoustic performance is being augmented. With this watch, which besides being a minute repeater, a tourbillon, and chronograph, they have mastered the right pitch, tone and harmony. A new method has been used to prepare the steel to create the gong structure, to achieve the unique minute repeater sound. The result is a shortened, precision-mastered tuning process and a unique sound. The Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie presents a newly developed case construction that prevents sound absorption, boosting amplification. Now, the gongs transmit vibrations directly to the soundboard and not to the mainplate as was done traditionally. The technology
In the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, the gong stud is the guitar bridge, and the internal soundboard beneath the movement (the golden disc shown), is the body of the guitar
functions like the upper body of a guitar. With the vibration-to-air system improved, sound quality, tone, and amplification are richer. The striking regulator – the device that sets the pace of the striking sequence of hours, quarters, and minutes, has also been redesigned. The anchor system is more flexible and becomes a shock absorber so that unwanted shock noise – created on action – is eliminated. Noise is almost imperceptible; poor frequencies are diminished and the pure, clear sound created by the watchmaker is freed. The result is a brighter and cleaner note. The Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie is not simply a striking watch; it is devised as a musical instrument. The acoustic guitar presents a sonic template: in an acoustic guitar, the strings are pulled tightly over the bridge. When plucked, the strings vibrate at a certain frequency and produce a beautiful, tonal sound. This sound is then carried into the body of the
The Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie is not simply a striking watch; it is devised as a musical instrument. The acoustic guitar presents a sonic template. In the watch, the gongs behave like guitar strings. The hammers are the guitar player’s fingers.
A watchmaker working on the caseback of an Audemars Piguet
guitar – the soundboard – via the bridge. As it travels around the body of the instrument, the sound is only enhanced. In the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, the gongs behave like guitar strings. The hammers are the guitar player’s fingers. The gong stud is the guitar bridge. The internal soundboard spread beneath the movement is the body of the guitar. The watch also boasts of a sharper tempo. In the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, time spent waiting for the gongs to strike is reduced by up to 50 percent. Furthermore, a security function prevents the user altering the time display while the striking mechanism is active. Timing is certainly improved. Furthermore, The Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie looks as good as it sounds. The 29.9 mm case is architecturally constructed in super-light titanium, while the blackened mainplate is the backdrop for the steel of the high-tech regulator. Not only does the openworked dial reveal the visionary technology within, it illuminates the true essence of this extraordinary timepiece: the movement (it has a power reserve of 42 hours). Decorated by hand, it is bevelled, polished, engraved, and perfected by the artists of Le Brassus. With its glareproof sapphire crystal and titanium bezel, the exclusive-production timepiece is precision-made to awaken sound. Audemars Piguet has been a manufacture of luxury watches since 1875, making it one of the world’s oldest watch manufacturers. Founded by Jules-Louis Audemars and EdwardAuguste Piguet, the company is still owned by descendants of its founding families. n
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 63
WATCHES WHAT’S NEW
Eye-Catching
Novelties Splurge picks some of the hottest timepieces launched at SIHH in Geneva and Baselworld in Basel, each with their own distinctive USP, and an armoury of technology and innovations within. 01
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Tourbillon Twist
These are bound to create a whirl on your wrist.
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1. MONT BLANC The TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Limited Edition 100 features the inhouse patented one-minute ExoTourbillon complication, with a screw balance outside the rotating cage, that can be halted by a stop-second mechanism. There’s also a monopusher chronograph. The dial is black graine, with SuperLumiNova™ numerals for easy reading. The 33.7 mm case is in titanium and carbon fibre.
been carved to display the tourbillon.
2. GREUBEL FORSEY The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision in Red Gold, is an allnew version of last year’s Tourbillon 24 Secondes, that won the Grand Prix “Aiguille d’Or” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The case is now red gold, while the dial has an anthracite hue. Each tourbillon bridge is signed by the person who finished it. On the caseback, a sapphire dome has
4. A LANGE & SÖHNE The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon has a column-wheel chronograph, a perpetual jumping calendar, and a tourbillon with an escapement rotating once a minute. It has a 50-hour power reserve, and a powerreserve indicator at the end of the tachymeter scale that tells you when to rewind the watch. It has a black, silver dial and a 41.5 mm platinum case, and is limited to 100 watches.
3. GRAHAM The Geo.Graham Tourbillon is a 60-second seethrough tourbillon (limited to 8) with a Swiss-made, automatic micro-rotor movement and double-bridge construction with golden screws. It also has a golden oscillating weight to ensure thinness, and an ornamental engraved arabesque inspired by George Graham. Power reserve: 72 hours; 40 mm pink gold case.
05 5. BAUME & MERCIER The Clifton Chronograph Complete Calendar is inspired by its ‘50s museum pieces, with a 43 mm case and a masculine design. It has two new complications, a complete calendar and a chronograph.The moon-phase function at 6 o’clock has a mobile disc that rotates in one lunar month of 29½ days. The chronograph function is highlighted by blued steel hands. 6. SEIKO The new Presage Automatic Watch 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (1,000 pieces) chronograph draws inspiration from this Japanese watch brand’s 100-year heritage. Each black Urushi lacquer dial is made by a master craftsman, and sports the Seiko 8R48 calibre. 7. Carl F bucherer The Patravi TravelTec Black GMT Chronograph has three time zones, and a black Diamondlike Carbon coating to make it scratchresistant. A great travel companion, it has two time zones using
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the CFB 1901.1 calibre, and the third time zone is visible via a red 24-hour hand on a rotating bezel. 42-hour power reserve; 46.6 mm diameter case. 8. TAG HEUER This steel chronograph from the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Red Bull Racing Team has a bezel sporting a tachymeter scale in matte blue aluminium. The quartz chronograph is accurate up to 1/10 of a second, apt for a motoring watch. 43 mm diameter case. 9. VACHERON CONSTANTIN The Overseas Chronograph has the Calibre 5200, the new self-winding chronograph movement developed
Chronograph Autograph For those who’re precision-driven, these make the right statement. by Vacheron Constantin, equipped with a twin barrel for greater torque, and 50 hours of power reserve. Case is 42.5 mm. 10. ULYSSE NARDIN The Diver Chronograph Hammerhead Shark (limited to 99 pieces) features the selfwinding manufacture chronograph calibre UN-150, an oversized 44 mm case, and 48hour power reserve. The 30 minutes counter is at 3 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, the date and 12-hour counter are displayed. And, at 9 o’clock sits the small seconds counter. It’s water-resistant to 300 m and perfect for ocean travel.
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September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 65
WATCHES WHAT’S NEW
Up to Date
It’s the need of the hour, whether it’s a lunar calendar, dual time, or world time.
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11. FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT This year the manufacture launches its first inhouse perpetual calendar with the Manufacture Perpetual Calendar. The FC-775 calibre has a 38-hour power reserve. Inset buttons at 5, 8, 10, and 11 o’clock let you adjust moonphase, date, and day and date, and leap year. Once adjusted, the watch will take into account the
months with 30-31 days, February days, and the leap year. Case: 42 mm. 12. IWC This Pilot’s Watch has a mechanical chronograph movement, date and day display, stopwatch function with hours, minutes, and seconds, small hacking seconds, a 44-hour power reserve, and a 43 mm stainlesssteel case. 13. JAEGER-LECOULTRE The Duomètre Quantième Lunaire white gold watch has a lunar calendar on the left side of the silvered opaline dial, and an hours counter on the right. At 6 o’clock, the ‘jumping seconds’ counter is surrounded by the decorated manuallywound movement. 50hour power reserve.
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14. JAQUET DROZ The Grande Seconde Dual Time is an elegant watch. It has two offcentre dials, with a new movement for the upper dial that shows local time, for the globetrotter. As a dual time (GMT), it has a lower dial for seconds, hours, and minutes, and a date indicator with a red tip. Case: 43 mm with a silver opaline dial.
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hands that follow the contours of the case, magically extending and shortening with the ellipse, skimming the numerals, thanks to the Pantographe complication. 45 x 37.6 mm wide. 8 days power reserve.
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15. CITIZEN The Eco-Drive One is the world’s thinnest light-powered analog quartz watch with a 2.98 mm thick case (38.15 mm in diameter) and 1 mm movement. It runs 10 months on a single full charge. 16. PERRELET The First Class Double Rotor has a double oscillating weight that draws energy from the two rotors that power the automatic winding system (a first), and lets you observe this rotation. 42 mm dial.
17. PIAGET The Emperador Coussin XL 700P is a daring alliance between a generatorregulated mechanical movement and a high-frequency quartz one. The quartz controls the speed of the generator at 5.33 turns a second, with peerless precision. It fêtes the 40th anniversary of its inhouse quartz movement. Limited to 118. 46.5 mm case. 18. PARMIGIANI FLEURIER The Ovale Pantographe is a marvel. It’s an oval watch with telescopic
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Complication Revelation The newest movements and plenty of innovation.
19. HUBLOT The Classic Fusion Berluti is a jet-black, monochrome collector’s edition with a black Venezia strap from the fashion house of Berluti. The 45 mm black ceramic case contains the HUB1100 self-winding movement, and a nero grigio leather dial. Limited to 500. 20. HYT The H2 Tradition has a standout feature: a manual mechanical movement that uses blue liquid in a tube to indicate the hours, paired with a traditional lacquered dial for minutes and seconds, and blued hands.Power reserve is 8 days. 48.8 mm diameter case; 17.9 mm thick. Limited to 50 pieces.
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WATCHES WHAT’S NEW
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21. blancpain The Villeret Quantième Annuel GMT hides the functionality of an annual GMT (Greenwich Mean Time, dual) calendar in a classic steel case.It has a selfwinding 6054F calibre, needing only one date adjustment per year. In a 40 mm case.
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Ode to the Classics The return of old-world favourites, and some vintage looks revisited.
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22. LONGINES The Héritage 1918 is inspired by an iconic honey-coloured model from 1918 for men and women, in a period design. The dial (with honey-coloured numerals), is similar to that of pocket watches of that era. 38.5 or 41 mm case; L615 automatic winding mechanical calibre. 23. CALVIN KLEIN The Calvin Klein tone combines elegant lines, comfortable materials, and the ETA F07.111 movement. The black leather strap version has
a silver or black dial, and hands polished with SuperLumiNova™. 24. VICTORINOX The I.N.O.X. Leather embodies the history of this pioneering brand. It has a monobloc dial, and a leather strap so robust it can withstand fire, water, acid, and salt, originally used in firemen’s boots. 43 mm case; Swiss-made quartz movement. 25. TISSOT Le Locle Régulateur is a nod to the original ‘Régulateur’, a clock used in 18th and 19th century workshops to check the accuracy of pocket watches. The minute was the most accurate quantification, and so there are two counters, for seconds below, and hours on top. 39.3 mm rose gold case; automatic movement. 26. RADO The new Hyperchrome 1616 is an oversized, hypermasculine ode to Rado’s vintage Cape Horn collection,
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and pays homage to 400 years of the discovery of this South American headland. Angular titanium case is 46 mm; automatic movement; 80 hours power reserve. 27. BELL & ROSS The BR 03-92 AeroGT is inspired by the AeroGT concept car, with a skeletonized mechanism and openwork dials in layers that show the watch motor. It presents a central hour, minute, and seconds display, with the seconds’ hand in red. 42 mm diameter; Automatic mechanical BR-CAL.318 calibre; Black calfskin straps with red piping. Limited to 500. 28. PANERAI The Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT has the new P.2005/MR movement, a handwound skeleton calibre with a minute repeater, that chimes three different sounds to tell time, with three hammers, by activating the pushpiece at 8 o’clock. 49 mm case; 96-hour power reserve. 29. CARTIER The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon, with its calibre 9440 MC and openwork dial, has two subdials representing
Skeleton Frame They’re visually stunning, and some chime for attention. the earth (local time) and moon (a sliding lunar display with an interdependent tourbillon), made of meteorite stone. Case: 18 kt pink gold in 47 mm. Limited to 15.
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30. BULGARI The Octo Finissso Skeleton lets you immerse yourself spectacularly in the heart of the movement. It’s equipped with the Manufacture Calibre BVL 128SK, a barely 2.35 mm skeleton mechanism, and a 65hour power reserve. The black adds a sensual touch. 31. HARRY WINSTON Project Z10, with its openwork dial composed of a blue anodized aluminium structure inspired by the Manhattan Bridge, has a double retrograde movement with automatic winding. The HW3305 calibre displays the day of the week at 4 o’clock and seconds, on a scale of 0 to 30, at 8 o’clock. The 42.2 mm diameter case is in Zalium™, on a black rubber and blue alligator leather strap. n
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September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 69
WatchES
Bright Time Splurge catches up with Swiss watchmaker Breitling’s vice-president, Jean-Paul Girardin, who tells us about the incredible innovations at the core of his brand’s new launches.
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r Girardin, what has been your own career graph? I’m a typical Swiss engineer, with both my father and grandfather in the watch industry. After an MBA in 1990, I started working at Breitling in 1992. What’s the new Avenger Hurricane all about? The Avenger Hurricane is a big watch (with a 50 mm diameter case), made of a composite polymer called Breitlight® which is mechanically high in resistance and very light (at 70gm, it’s 3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than steel). Breitlight® isn’t even patented as we like to keep our recipe a secret. So what we’ve done with the Avenger is introduce a special chronograph, with our new inhouse Calibre B14 with a 24-hour indication, something we already launched in 1962 with the Navitimer Cosmonaute worn by Scott Carpenter when he went into space. So the hour hand does one turn in 24 hours, and not in 12. You have to get used to reading the time – when it’s 12, the hour hand is at 6 o’clock!
The connected chronograph, the Breitling ExoSpace B55 Night Mission
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Jean-Paul Girardin, vicepresident, Breitling
“The Avenger is a big watch made of Breitlight® which is ultra light. Breitlight® isn’t patented; we like to keep the recipe a secret.”
The Breitling Avenger Hurricane
Are all your chronographs certified by COSC, the Swiss Chronometre Testing Institute? Not only our chronographs, but all Breitling watches, since 1999. We’ve been certifying our entire production in terms of chronographs, mechanical, and quartz watches. It’s an independent body, and each movement is tested there for 15 days. And the SuperOcean Heritage Chronoworks®? In the SuperOcean Chronoworks® we improved the efficiency of the movement. To reduce friction of the wheel chassis, the baseplate, and the bridges, we replaced the brass in the jewels with ceramic, so it can function without oil. We also reduced
Left to right: Breitling Emergency, Breitling for Bentley BO5 Unitime Midnight Carbon, and the Breitling Navitimer 1884
The Breitling manufacture in La Chauxde-Fonds, Switzerland
Nigel Lamb of Team Breitling, pilots his aircraft in The Red Bull Air Races, where Breitling is Official Timekeeper.
the weight of the wheels by half, by making them in silicon. Then we changed the geometry of the escapement, where most energy loss takes place. Efficiency was improved by 45 percent, so power reserve went up from 70 to 100 hours. Can you tell us about the new Navitimer 1884? The Navitimer, launched in 1952, is the first iconic Breitling model we had, the very first chronograph on the market. It’s a watch designed for pilots, so there’s the link with aviation. In 1952 the circular slide rule was also advanced technology, and it’s great to see how Breitling had a long-term vision. If you look at the Navitimer today, it is stainless steel, water resistant, with sapphire crystal, with an inhouse mechanical chronograph; the design itself didn’t change, and remained the same since 1952. It’s the best watch representing Breitling. How has Breitling been able to remain at the forefront of innovation? The guidelines we have, are to stay one step ahead, and beyond. We really want to continue to innovate, but we want to do that in a way where we remain faithful to the Breitling mystery. Tradition
Leon Breitling founded his company in 1884
“Our guidelines are to stay one step ahead, and beyond. We want to continue to innovate, but we want to remain faithful to the Breitling mystery. Tradition and innovation are not a paradox.”
Assemblage of a Breitling at the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture
and innovation are not a paradox. Our Breitling Jet Team was the first civilian team to ever fly in jets. It’s our contribution to aviation. Will the Breitling Jet Team ever come to India? Right now they are in the US, and the plans for the next year will change. We can consider this option but nothing is planned for the time being. Have people ever used the Breitling Emergency? Since the first Breitling Emergency was launched in 1995, we sold almost 40,000 pieces. We’ve been able to save more than 20 lives. And since 2014, we have the new Emergency, which is doing well. How’s the partnership with Bentley going? We started in 2003, and we will continue with Breitling for Bentley. We’ve presented the new GMT BO4 S with a carbon fibre case, so we are continuing and introducing new materials. Ours is a stable partnership that works.
The Breitling SuperOcean Heritage Chronoworks®
The Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute 1962
Which Breitling do you wear every day? I wear the ExoSpace B55 every day, the first Breitling connected watch. On special occasions I will wear the Navitimer. n
September 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 71
Parting Shot
The
Sensational Salma Hayek
Sultry Mexican-American star Salma Hayek, will soon be seen in a clutch of releases, opposite Alec Baldwin and Ryan Reynolds. She recently revealed how she almost made it to Mexico’s Olympic team.
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olden Globe and Academy Award-nominated actress, producer, director, and Mexico native Salma Hayek Pinault was recently seen at the Rio Olympics cheering on her long jumper cousin Yvonne Hayek, the first Mexican in this athletic tournament since 1968. What is not well known is that Salma herself was almost recruited by Mexican officials for the gymnastics Olympic squad when she was a child. Salma is perhaps best known for her breakout 2002 role in Frida, an art icon in her home country (which garnered her nominations and international acclaim), Fools Rush In, and Wild Wild West with Will Smith. She’s also lent her voice for Puss in Boots and this year’s Sausage Party, an animated film about a sausage that tries to escape its fate, and a box-office success. And now she’s joined the cast of indie drama Beatriz at Dinner, with John Lithgow and Chloe Sevigny. The story recounts a holistic medicine healer who joins a dinner party after her car breaks down at the home of a wealthy client. Her next film will see her star opposite Alec Baldwin in Drunk Parents (Bron Studios), and The Hitman’s Bodyguard with Ryan Reynolds and Samuel L Jackson. A stunner at 49, Salma is often spotted on red carpets with her billionaire husband François-Henri Pinault, with whom she has a daughter Valentina, born in 2007. n
Salma Hayek Pinault wears Gucci at a dinner for the second edition of the ‘Women in Motion’ program, brought together by Kering and the Festival de Cannes, in France this summer
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