November 2016 | Vol 5
OUTLOOK SPLURGE November 2016 VOL 5
THE BRILLIANCE OF
CHEF
VIKAS KHANNA The Best
CONCIERGE SERVICES
Haute Restaurants New Techniques Michelin
Starred Chefs
splurge edit
Food Fables W
Editor-in-Chief Rajesh Ramachandran
hat is food but a sensory experience that touches first your tongue, and then your soul? If food could stir passions, memories, joy, and laughter, then why can’t it be used to bring people together? This is what we learnt from one of the world’s most celebrated chefs, Vikas Khanna, our cover personality this month and a formidable spirit who embodies the neversay-die spirit of Punjab, and who overcame tremendous hurdles to reach the pinnacle of his profession. One of the things that struck me the most during our conversation, was his humility, love for India, and respect for the elders in his family who taught him to go out into the world, and conquer it with cuisine. For Chef Vikas, who heads Michelin-starred restaurant Junoon in New York City, food has always been about sharing and bringing communities together. He’s made documentaries and written books on the subject, and then gone on to cook for some of the world’s most influential people. He’s at the top of his game today because he loved to push the envelope, and create dishes that dazzled. And he never took no for an answer. And we have innovators, trailblazing restaurateurs, and Michelin-starred maverick chefs who’ve created incredible dishes, and restaurants, from superb ingredients and decades of experience. We met and spoke to several stars on the culinary firmament, and experienced first-hand not just their gourmet offerings, but the ideas, and trends that are shaping world cuisine today. From southern Italian homemade pasta, to Japanese with a Korean twist, from the latest postmolecular, to posh dhaba food, to the magic of Chef Gaggan, to elegant British food, we’ve presented an array of delicacies to tantalize the senses. Dig in! - Priya Kumari Rana, Executive Editor
contributors
Executive Director Indranil Roy Associate Publisher Vidya Menon Executive Editor Priya Kumari Rana Managing Editor Riddhima Seal Business Office Vice Presidents Johnson D Silva, Shishir Saxena National Head Bhavna Oberoi Brand Head Shrutika Dewan Deputy General Manager (Marketing) Jyoti Ahuja Circulation National Head Anindya Banerjee Assistant General Manager G Ramesh (South) Vinod Kumar (North) Production General Manager Shashank Dixit Chief Manager Shekhar Kumar Pandey Deputy Manager Ganesh Shah Assistant Manager Gaurav Shrivas Accounts Assistant General Manager Diwan Singh Bisht Head Office AB-10 Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi 110029, India Tel: 011-33505500 Fax: 011-26191420 Email: outlook@outlookindia.com Other Offices Mumbai Tel: 022-33545000 Fax: 022-33545100 Kolkata Tel: 033-33545400 Fax: 033-24650145 Chennai Tel: 044-33506300 Fax: 044-33506327 Bengaluru Tel: 080-45236100; 45236105
Anant Gavit
Marryam H Reshii
Amit SenGupta
Born and brought up in Mumbai, he studied at the L.S. Raheja School of Arts in Mumbai, taking up photography after graduation in 2009. He assisted Avinash Gowariker to master the art of photography, and is a dedicated advertising photographer..
She’s a food writer and restaurant critic for the Times of India, Delhi. She is fond of travelling the world and eats at street-side joints as well as the hottest tables all over the world. She contributes articles to India’s leading publications.
He is a traveller and accidental digital media entrepreneur. Amit is the founder of Blackboard (www.black-board.in). He is based out of Kolkata and is a regular contributor to Outlook Splurge.
6 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
Printed and published by Indranil Roy on behalf of Outlook Publishing (India) Pvt Ltd. Printed at IPP Limited. C4-C11, Phase II, Noida and published from AB-10 Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi 110029 Cover & Layout design @alarinks
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Contents November 2016 Covetables
14 | Gifts, Gadgets, and Glam
14
20
Nothing warms up November more than family games, the gleam of gold, and party accessories.
Splurge watch
20 | Fashionable Flavours Designer homeware, limited-edition spirits, transparent tourbillons, wine fests, and more.
Cover story
24 | Trailblazer
24
Michelin-starred Chef Vikas Khanna’s inspiring story from humble beginnings to his conquest of the world with his cuisine, and love for the Himalayas.
on the cover November 2016 | Vol 5
OUTLOOK SPLURGE NOvEmbER 2016 vOL 5
THE BRILLIANCE OF
CHEF
VIKAS KHANNA the Best
CONCIERGE SERVICES
Haute Restaurants New Techniques Michelin
Starred Chefs
Vikas Khanna, photographed by Anant Gavit. Styled by Eshaa Amiin. Outfit: Ermenegildo Zegna. Oven: Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven. Location: Renaissance Mumbai.
36
Gastronomy
30 | Post-modern Masala Zorawar Kalra opens his new restaurant in the Capital, with its futuristic take on Indian food.
32 | Bangkok Buzz Chef Gaggan, one of the pioneers of molecular cuisine, serves up sensory food stories.
36 | When in Rome Zuma opens at the Fendi Palazzo; Chef Rainer Becker tells us about its Japanese dining concept.
40 | A New Vision Award-winning Le Cirque at Leela Palace has a new executive chef, who loves fresh produce.
44 | Back by Demand Las Vegas Chef Akira Back on his expansion plans and his unique take on pizza, Japanese style.
45 | Pan-Asian Simplicity Chef Sahil Arora of the Renaissance Hotel, Mumbai gives his recipe for the perfect salmon.
8 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
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November 2016
Contents 50
60 56
46 | Pasta, Handmade A cooking class with sous chef Kyle Grant at Fairmont The Palm, Dubai on handrolled pasta.
48 | Halogen Love We look at the Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven and are impressed by its functions and ease of use.
50 | Haute Highway On the 30th anniversary of Dhaba at The Claridges, we look at its classic, timeless dishes from Punjab.
52 | South Italy on your Plate Chef Luigi Ferraro of Sorrento at Shangri-La’sEros Hotel, Delhi on homemade pasta and pizza.
54 | Vegan Delights
58
66 lifestyle
60 | Luxury on Demand We look at some of the most exclusive concierge services in the country today, and how today’s HNIs want something that nobody else can get.
Spirits
62 | A Scotch & A Lounge Master Blender Colin Scott of Chivas Regal on the art of blending; Mumbai’s most exclusive rooftop bar.
Two Aussie chefs at Swissotel Kolkata discuss vegan food and how it could take over the world.
Fashion
56 | Supper & Cocktails
64 | The Art of Dressing
Michelin-starred Chef Ollie Dabbous and mixologist Oskar Kinberg come to town.
Italian luxury menswear powerhouse Ermenegildo Zegna’s new tuxes and suits for the wedding season.
58 | A Delhi Tradition
66 | Heart of an Empire
The most popular dishes at Delhi’s iconic United Coffee House, and its modern, new avatar.
We peek into the headquarters of Italian luxury maison Tod’s, and discover handcrafted excellence.
59 | Haute Cuisine
68 | Winter Wardrobe
The Lodhi, New Delhi’s On The Waterfront and Élan, serve elegant, international dishes.
71
Fashion major Globus uncovers its new collection with black and white combos, stripes, and prints.
Wanderlust
70 | Swiss Streets Take a stroll through Zurich’s Old Town, and discover a city steeped in history and fabulous architecture.
71 | Gourmet Bazaars Spain is teeming with food markets, and we look at some of the most popular for browsing and tasting.
parting shot
72 | A Classical Beauty Oscar-winner Cate Blanchett’s new releases.
10 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
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Covetables
Remember these Trinkets
In November
With the festive winter season upon us, here are some baubles, timepieces, bags, and even gadgets and games that make for perfect gifts to delight loved ones, or just you.
Emerald Bloom
T
Steel Tip
M
ontegrappa’s new Q1 pen joins the brand’s cult collection, and is inspired by a firearm. The barrel is in titanium while the cap features leather. Limited to 100 pieces. Price: `8,50,000 onwards.
Temple
STRANDS
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ust in time for the busy wedding season, this stunning gold necklace by Tanishq is part of its new Shubham collection, which is reminiscent of India’s priceless heritage with ornate motifs referencing the temples of Hampi, Gujarat, and Bhubaneshwar. Price on request.
he Precious Chopard, dainty as a flower’s blooming corolla, is an Haute Joaillerie piece revealed this year by Chopard. In 18 kt white gold, it’s set with pear-shaped (6 cts), brilliant-cut (1.9 cts), and tapered baguette-cut emeralds, brilliant-cut diamonds with a green brushed canvas strap. Price on request.
Treasure Trove
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Gentleman’s Tote
F
endi introduces the new Lui Bag for men, part of its Metal Stitch Selleria family for men. The Lui is in black Cuoio Romano leather crafted by Fendi artisans. Its roomy interior is preciously lined in suede. The perfect everyday briefcase. Price on request.
14 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
his Heirloom Ring Box from Hazoorilal Legacy recalls the era of maharajas and Mughals. A play of 22 kt gold, fine meenakari, and polkis creates this limited-edition piece for 2016. Price on request.
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Covetables
Sensual
Garden
T
ake your new Lady Dior for a stroll, with animals embroidered on it, inspired by charms from Dior. It’s from the new Cruise 2017 Lady Dior collection, with a campaign starring Marion Cotillard, and shot by Craig McDean. Price on request.
White Heat
T
urn temperatures up with these movie-star square sunglasses from the Collection Adriel from Michael Kors’s Gift Guide, curated by the designer himself. Price on request.
Light’s Melody
N
irav Modi has added new jewels to its Luminance Collection, just in time for the party season, such as this ring. The pear and marquise shape diamonds come in brilliant, old, Jasmine™, and rose cuts for maximum brilliance. Price on request.
Golden Classic
T
he new generation of the classic Oyster Perpetual Datejust by Rolex has an updated design in a 41 mm case. The Datejust 41 has the new Rolex calibre 3235 and comes in either 18 kt yellow gold or Everose Rolesor versions. Price on request.
Game ON
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ondon-based menswear label Folk has teamed up with Mr Alexander Devol, founder of Wooden & Woven – an artisanal brand – to recreate traditional games of days past. This set includes a chess board, backgammon board, playing cards, and mahogany bats. MrPorter.com. Price: £2,100.
16 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
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Covetables
Lion
KING
A
ddress Home introduces a spectacular collection of décor accessories as part of its Autumn-Winter 2016 range. Inspired by wildlife and spanning the African continent, this sculpture of a lion in metallic adds impact to your home. Price: `9,900.
Victorian Spell
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aipur Jewels are pioneers in fine jewellery that exudes Rajasthani charm. This platinum necklace studded with 32 carats old European round-cut diamonds, also features 32 carats Basra pearls. Price on request.
Life’s a Charm
Duck Stop D eakin & Francis collaborated with Dartington crystal to craft this special glass decanter. The duck stopper is in enamel green, and is silver-plated. MrPorter.com. Price: £685.
18 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
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his Keepall Bag Charm and Bag Holder is inspired by Louis Vuitton’s travel DNA, and interprets the iconic Keepall bag in a miniature format. The brushed palladium finish adds a vintage touch. Price on request
Nautical noTe
F
or the woman who likes to spend her holidays by the sea, this Collection Goldie shoulder bag from Michael Kors Holiday 2017 Gift Guide has all the makings of a nautical accomplice on her adventure by the ocean, or at least, the upcoming party season! Price on request.
Dynamic
Duo
T
hese MH40 OverEar Headphones by Master & Dynamic are made of heavy-grain leather and stainless steel with high-performance drivers for crystal-clear sound. MrPorter.com. Price: £320.
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Splurge Watch
Welcome to Their World
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egendary band Depeche Mode, announce their new 2017 tour. They’ve partnered with Swiss watchmaker Hublot to create a limited-edition watch, a proportion of the sales of which will be donated to a water charity. “We wanted to create a fusion with these talented, passionate stars,” says Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO, Hublot. n
red ALERT
B
elvedere, the world’s original luxury vodka, reveals the new (PRODUCT)RED limited edition bottle, with 50 percent of profits going to the Global Fund, that fights HIV/AIDS in Africa. Musician John Legend has collaborated with celebrated artist Esther Mahlangu to design the colourful bottles. Price: `7,500 (Mumbai); `3,000 (Gurgaon). n
Californian Libation
C
ome November 14-20, local talent will gather at the tribute to all that’s good about wine and food (there’s beer too), at the San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival, that city’s largest wine and culinary event. Score gourmet food, wine tastings, celeb chefs, cooking demos, and auctions. San Diego’s hottest restaurants and chefs provide you with tastes of the region’s latest food trends. If you're headed to Cali, this is the place to be. n
Pilot love
S
wiss watch manufacture Perrelet, has launched the Turbine Pilot Grand Raid, limited to 100 pieces and pairs classic black with warm beige. Its design is sporty and masculine. Its black PVD-coated 48 mm steel case is equipped with the P-331 Perrelet Manufacture automatic movement, produced in-house, with a power reserve of 42 hours. n
Absolut BAR
H
andcrafted luxury vodka brand Absolut Elyx, have launched a swanky lounge in the heart of the Capital, at The Lalit New Delhi’s Kitty Su nightclub. The lounge is designed with copper accents, harking to the copper distillation used to create the vodka. “This is a unique concept and the luxurious ambience offered by The Lalit stands true to the essence of Absolut Elyx,” says Keshav Suri, Executive Director, The Lalit Group of Hotels. n
20 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
Festive Spread
P
ottery Barn, a member of the Williams-Sonoma portfolio of brands, unveils an exclusive product collaboration with fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee. The capsule collection, which is Sabyasachi’s first foray into home furnishings, includes over 50 pieces and features an eclectic array of colourful, globally inspired textiles and décor spanning bedding and tabletop, to jewellery boxes and holiday ornaments. n
Asian Fare
M
odern Asian Bistro Pa Pa Ya from the House of Massive Restaurants will open its doors shortly in the Capital. It recently showcased its delectable fare at the Asian Hawkers Market held recently at Select City Walk. Pa Pa Ya assimilates cooking techniques across Asia, and we saw an exclusive tapasstyle menu presented at this food fair. n
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Splurge Watch
A Garden on the Roof
A
s part of its vision for a more sustainable future, Mandarin Hotel, Paris, has unveiled its new urban rooftop vegetable garden. The garden complements the beehive that gives fresh organic honey that Executive Chef Thierry Marx has used in his recipes for guests at the hotel. n
An Evening with Priyanka Chopra
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od’s Love we Deliver, that provides nutrition to people in New York with severe illnesses hosted its Annual Golden Hearts Dinner in NYC, which helped raise $2 million. The event was attended by Hollywood luminaries like Kate Hudson, Neil Patrick Harris, and Priyanka Chopra who wore a blue Michael Kors dress.n
dim sum haven
I
nspired by a journey across some of Hong Kong and China’s most celebrated tea houses, Chef Vijay Thapliyal of On the Waterfront at The Lodhi, New Delhi, has conjured up a host of Sino-Asian flavours for a selection of Dim Sums. You can now indulge in an ‘All you can eat’ format for just `1,250 plus taxes. There’s also noodles, rice bowls, and desserts. n
Transparent Tourbillon
T
he Executive Skeleton Tourbillon Boutique, launched at Baselworld 2016 by Ulysse Nardin, features large Roman numerals and sword-shaped hands, all seemingly suspended in mid-air. Limited to 99 pieces, the timepiece has a 45 mm titanium case and a red carbon-fibre style strap. The manually wound UN-171 manufacture movement is tuned for accuracy. n
A Popular Space
C
asa Pop by Raseel Gujral Ansal, takes a leap forward with the launch of a new store in Select City Walk in Delhi. In a 670 sq ft space, the store will retail fashion, home accessories and furniture, that are bold and bright, in keeping with Raseel’s vibrant aesthetic. “I am happy to bring our identifiable brand to city shoppers,” she says. Casa Pop is introducing a collection created in glass with digital prints. n
A CAKE MIX TO USHER IN XMAs
Luxury & Fine Craftsmanship
A
heritage brand that prides itself on detailed craftsmanship, Puducherry-based luxury leather company Hidesign, has launched its new Atelier collection, designed by founder Dilip Kapur. Divided into the Champagne and Caviar collections, in ostrich and deer leather respectively, there are wallets, clutches, and bags for men and women, and passport holders to workwear staples, like the everyday handbag. n
22 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
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enaissance Lucknow celebrates families and how. The hotel organized a Sunday brunch ‘Rivaj’ where families can bond over a meal, and this was kicked off by a fun cake-mixing ceremony in time for Christmas. “Our aim is to bring beautifully cooked and designed platters for all our guests,” says Anand Ganesan, Multi-Property General Manager, Renaissance Lucknow Hotel. n
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Cover Story
Chef Vikas Khanna
Inside the Mind of a
Culinary
Master With his moving and inspiring journey from small-town Amritsar, to a Michelin-star rating, and becoming the toast of the world, Chef Vikas Khanna has never forgotten his roots or those who encouraged him. He tells Splurge about the passion that drove him to excel, and his record-breaking firsts. photographed by Anant Gavit styled by Eshaa Amiin | makeup by Nahush | hair by Rashi location courtesy Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre Hotel text by Priya Kumari Rana
H
e’s more handsome in person that what you’ve seen on television (as a judge of MasterChef India 5), and as we style his various looks for the day at the Renaissance, Mumbai, Chef Vikas Khanna is easy going and jovial, occasionally breaking into Punjabi-accented Hindi, and delighting us with Punjabi aphorisms inculcated from his grandmother, Biji. In fact, it is his Biji, whom he attributes for instilling in him a love of food so great, that it became his life’s passion, and ultimately
24 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
brought him to the pinnacle of his craft, earned him a Michelin-star rating, and has catapulted him into the world’s most important chefs’ lists, not to mention, the best-looking! Growing up with a disability (he was born with club feet) in the small-town world of Amritsar, he couldn’t run like most children and often felt left out. “I figured the kitchen was the place where something was always happening,” says Chef Vikas. “Drawers filled with dals, homemade badi, and the smell of achar and the earthiness of
Kurta, waistcoat, and pocket square: Ashish N Soni. Jacket and pants: Ermenegildo Zegna Shoes: Louis Vuitton Pin: The Tie Hub
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 25
Cover Story
Hoodie and sweater: Kenzo for H&M Pants: G Star Trench: Zara Shoes: Louis Vuitton Pin: The Tie Hub Glasses: Georgio Armani at Luxottica
“My cuisine is self-expression, it’s for India,” says Chef Vikas Khanna, unfettered by definitions. His innovative techniques using classic Indian ingredients have won him accolades. A few of his vivid, colourful dishes are shown here.
When Chef Gordon Ramsay met Vikas Khanna, he exclaimed: “I’ve never seen a chef who looks like a Hollywood star! You need to be on television. The world needs to see this face of Indian food.” Antique utensils, part of his future museum in Manipal
atta, that mitti smell, I loved it.” He quickly found women coming out of their homes to buy vegetables, would become a social event. That’s when he found that food was communal, something that brought people together. “Every community of every faith shares food; religion came later,” says Vikas. “It’s the only thing that binds us.” He’s brought this concept to the big screen in a documentary entitled Kitchens of Gratitude that premiered at the 69th Cannes Film Festival this May. It was his sheer willpower and desire to see the world, that drove Chef Vikas as a youngster. He knows first-hand what ‘bullying’ stands for, a word he’s fought against all his life, from the mean kids at school all the way to some mean chefs in New York kitchens. Starting off at home, making a simple cup of overbrewed tea and dal for his Biji, to supplying glasses from Moradabad for club parties, to waiting jobs and even working in a tandoor roadside café (“I feel free when I eat there,” he says.), he was accepted in a hotel administration graduate school in Manipal, and worked his way through school, often cooking at the local Krishna temple, and even singing bhajans in Kannada! He attributes his time spent in the south for shaping his culinary techniques, and love of ingredients like coconut. Post-graduation, he found himself in Kathmandu, Nepal, working at the Oberoi, where he began trekking and exploring the Himalayan region. “I fell in love with the Himalayas,” says Chef Vikas. “The food there was all about simplicity.” He learnt about herbs like jimbu, and ghundruk used to preserve vegetables. “When I went abroad, I was the only chef who knew about these things,” says Vikas. He culminated his research of Himalayan cuisine and love of its people in his 2012 book, Return to the Rivers, published in the US (Chef Vikas has a total of 35 books to his credit.) Even as he landed in New York City in 2000, the mountains were never far from his mind. He named his first food outlet at the Rubin Museum
of Art in New York City, Himalayan Café, and it was during a particularly busy lunch hour that he got a call from Gordon Ramsay’s office to come and meet him. “I told them that I needed to finish my service and come at 3pm,” says Vikas. “I hung up on Fox!” When they finally met, Gordon Ramsay exclaimed: “I’ve never seen a chef who looks like a Hollywood star! You need to be on TV. The world needs to see this face of Indian food.” And it was Chef Vikas’s 180 seconds on Gordon’s show, Kitchen Nightmares, that caught America’s attention. As he fielded calls from people like David Letterman who wanted him on his show, to having his cheeks pulled by American women who just “loved” his Punjabi-accented English, he caught the attention of bloggers and papers that called him the “Hottest Chef in New York”. That was 10 years ago. 2006. “The tables have turned today,” says Vikas. “I was never that reality-show kind of person. I always wanted to be known for my craft.” And how the tables have turned. With his Michelin-star rated restaurant Junoon in Manhattan’s tony Flatiron district, re-election fundraisers that he’s hosted for President Obama, for 264 people, with a price tag of `20 lakh a head, to publishing the award-winning Flavours First and the world’s most expensive book Utsav (only 12 copies have been made, at the cost of `35 lakh), and these have been gifted to world leaders like the Dalai Lama and the Pope. (Steve Jobs’ copy gets auctioned for his charity, Smile Foundation.), Vikas Khanna’s is a story of triumph, come what may the odds. “People told me that Indian food cannot surpass the six-dollar curry tag,” says Chef Vikas. “I was so angry, I said, kake you see. In 2012, when I served the `20 lakh per person dinner, at the Rubin Museum, the phone rang off the hook!” But his most important phone call was the one that he received at his office in New York. “Those 90 seconds from walking to the office landline, I was numb,” says Vikas. “I thought of my
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 27
Chef Vikas Khanna presenting his magnum opus, Utsav, with lettering in liquid gold, to world leaders PM Narendra Modi; Presidents Bill Clinton, Hillary Clinton, and Barack Obama, and superstar Amitabh Bachchan.
“Biji said cooking will make you equal to everyone, if not more,” says Chef Vikas. “Parents are the ladder, and don’t forget who is holding your weight.” He’s worked with brands like Usha, with their Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven. The Dalai Lama, Vikas’s great inspiration, signing his book Utsav
work at the Golden Temple, the first time my father got a tandoor for me, my first time in the kitchen and it’s raining, and my mom standing there with the generator. Then coming to America and a chef wanting to cut my fingers, and me screaming.” His life literally flashed in front of his eyes. On the phone was the person from the Michelin Guide. But he never forgot his Biji or his parents’ sacrifices. “Biji said cooking will make you equal to everyone, if not more,” says Vikas. “Parents are the ladder, and don’t forget who is holding your weight; they are holding it as you are rising.” He’s worked with brands like Usha, with their Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven, and as an ambassador for Mercedes-Benz. He regrets the fact that his father passed away before he ever sat in his son’s Mercedes, a long-cherished dream. (“Live with the guilt but don’t repeat it,” he says.) “People say, you brought Indian food to our kitchens. You were not here to sell $2 chicken tikka masala and make money. You said you were going to bring India to us in the most purest form, not the adulterated, or pseudo kind.” His book Utsav reflects his burning passion, “It’s about Indian festivals,” he says. “I wrote it in anger, all 2,400 pages. It weighs 15 kilos. I photographed the entire book.” He’s now aiming to put it in the Guinness Book of World Records. “Till I breathe my last, I will dedicate my life to my country,” he says. As a tribute to Indian kitchens, he’s also building a $4,5 million kitchen utensil museum in Manipal, with some of the world’s oldest ice cream machines, measuring tools, whisks, and plates – a world first. It’s the years that he spent travelling across India, to remote tribal areas of Mizoram and south India, that he picked up ingredients and techniques. And he wanted to remain true to his heart. “To modify Indian food is a big challenge,” says Vikas. “When we first started doing tasting menus in Junoon, it wasn’t enough to have duck; we need to have composed plates.” What he doesn’t men-
28 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
tion is that he was trained in France at Le Cordon Bleu, and has studied at Cornell, Harvard, and New York University. He uses some techniques from molecular gastronomy, but says that even France has moved forward. “Ho gaya. People are still copying El Bulli,” he says. “My cuisine is self-expression, it’s for India.” For example, he will sear fish to perfection, serve it on a handmade plate from France, and pour a malvani sauce of ginger, coconut, coriander, and chillies in front of the guest for a sensuous experience. “I’ll get an organic lobster, and infuse it with Goan spices,” says Vikas. “People find it hard to believe that everything is not a curry. Even the first chicken tikka I did, is actually a four-layer chicken roulade. It’s sous vide and it’s finished in the oven for the crust.” He also does tandoori salmon ceviche, with kumquat pickle, purple turnips and sandalwood-smoked dahi or yoghurt. His sweets are not your ordinary gulab jamun, but, like the modernized version of Oriya temple offering chhena poda, hit the right notes. And at Junoon, nobody is allowed to “recognize” celebrities, so that they can dine in peace. “One day I had Martha Stewart on table 34, Tom Cruise on 71, and even my fave, Rafael Nadal sitting there, all at once,” says Vikas. He’s a world celebrity himself, showing up in Who’s Who lists with frequency, and MasterChef India has brought him via television into every home. “The country did not even know the word chef six years ago when I came here,” he says. “MasterChef gave us the word ‘chef’. It’s penetrated the streets, into the ‘real’ India, not just Delhi and Mumbai.” He’s also fresh from judging the finale of a Quaker Oats (PepsiCo) contest, of which he is Nutrition Brand Ambassador, which he took on as a fan of “healthy eating”. “If I had not started back home, what would be the validation of all those degrees,” says Vikas. “And then Bhutan and Tibet allowed me to come to America to face the world. But…I have done nothing; I haven’t even started yet.” n
Jacket: Lecoanet Hemant Pants: The Maroon Suit Sweater: Kenneth Cole Trench: Zara Shoes: Alberto Torresi Bag: Louis Vuitton
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 29
gastronomy
The glass-doored entrance to the best table in town
Magnifique Masala With his new restaurant Masala Library in some of the most expensive real estate in the country, Zorawar Kalra has exceeded all expectations with his post-molecular subcontinental menu as he takes us on a scientific, scrumptious trip.
T
here’s a new kid on the block, and it’s called the Masala Library. With reservations there of up to a month in advance, über-restaurateur and MasterChef judge Zorawar Kalra has created a masterpiece. With a 19-course tasting menu that is the talk of the town, the glass-edifice space, with an impressive bar, and even a small herb garden outside, is the place to be, for fine dining in the Capital today. Inspired by his father, the legendary Jiggs Kalra, Zorawar has upped his own casual-setting, highly successful restaurant Farzi Café, with the Delhi instalment of Masala Library, which opened in Mumbai three years ago. “All the recipes are my creations,” says Zorawar. The tasting menu changes every month, and there’s more than enough recipes to go around. “Even if I were to change a recipe every week, I would still not exhaust my repertoire for 20 years.” Why post-molecular,
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and why now, we ask? “Indian food was in a rut,” he says. “It was katoris of dal with swirls of cream on top. If I had to put Indian food on the global palate, which is my main focus in life, and take it all over the world, then I need to modernize, innovate.” And modernize he has. From using European kitchen equipment to centrifuge (the all-clear flavourful rasam), a rotary evaporator to dehydrate – like his papads and turai crisps, it’s all about science in the kitchen. There’s bread that has literally been converted into a foam, a bitter gourd that has been pickled for 12 days to accompany a tawa keema, even a refreshing mushroom ‘chai’ with dehydrated mushrooms and The elegant, white interiors of Masala Library
Zorawar Kalra
Jalebi caviar served in a seashell
truffle oil, that takes the place of a soup. A classic like a samosa gets ‘deconstructed’ on the plate, the delicately balanced galouti kebab is served medium rare, and a turai kebab comes with a delicate turai crisp for the vegetarians. “This is a post-molecular, post-modern restaurant. We started molecular cuisine
Kashmiri chilli duck, and aloo Bukhara korma
A classic samosa gets ‘deconstructed’, the delicate galouti kebab is served medium rare, and a kebab comes with a turai crisp for the vegetarians. “This is a postmolecular, post-modern restaurant. We started molecular cuisine in India,” says Zorawar.
in India. No one in the country had done that with Indian food before us,” says Zorawar. Different parts of the subcontinent are represented here. From the kottu roti and pol sambhal, a mixed vegetable dish from Sri Lanka, to pork from Nagaland, to pepper lamb with an appam shell from south India, and a Mizo stew with black rice (a favourite with Zorawar and his father), no two dishes taste the same. Even the vegetarian menu impresses with its elevation of the humble eggplant, sweet potato (served with a cheese crisp), and bhindi. The mushroom soufflé with the truffle saffron curry is delectable. The dessert is the pièce de résistance, with an ingenious creation called jalebi caviar served in a giant seashell. Difficult to access ingredients include the rare gucchi mushrooms from Jammu and Kashmir (at `30,000 a kilo), truffles, and sea bass from Chile. “The menu here only shares 10 percent of its DNA from Mumbai, otherwise it’s very different,” says Zorawar. And that menu will be replaced by this one, with Head Chef Saurabh Udinia training the Mumbai chefs. Their à la carte menu is equally formidable. “We’ve got the meanest biryani in town,” says Zorawar. “And our dal makhni is perfection.” This is coming from the son of the legend who built Bukhara at ITC Maurya. “Ours is the baap of that.” But almost everyone orders the tasting menu. And their bar, has one of the largest single malt collections in Delhi, and over 80 wines, great vodkas, and lots of champagne. “Our bar celebrates the opposite of our modernistic food, namely old-fashioned cocktails,” says Zorawar. His favourite cocktail is the Clover Club. For Zorawar, future plans include openings in London, Dubai, and New York. And in his new role as MasterChef judge for this season with Chef Vikas Khanna, he says it’s going to be “extraordinary”. “The quality of food and contestants will elevate it to the level of MasterChef Australia,” he says. Welcome to the new order. New thinking, new creations. n
Left: Baconwrapped tandoori morels; Deconstruction of a samosa
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 31
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Gaga about
Gaggan
Chef Gaggan has improvised on molecular gastronomy using his knowledge gained during his time with Albert AdriĂ . Inset: Mithai ki Maki made of date-palm jaggery (gur), ice cream, pistachios, sesames, and almonds.
A chef who defied convention by opening an Indian restaurant in Bangkok, Gaggan redefines molecular gastronomy, and continues to amaze with his regional twist, writes Marryam H Reshii. 32 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
H
ave you ever returned to the city where you live and, while the plane is circling, waiting for permission to land, tried to identify the city’s landmarks? You will notice that because of the perspective of viewing them from up above, instead of ground level, you won’t be able to make out even your own neighbourhood, until the plane has moved on well ahead. And when
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Story of Fish Called KinMidai, served in four acts, with fish bone jelly, eggplant smoked with fish, fish head with rice kedgeree, and fish curry with gunpowder.
you have flown past the mall that you visit nearly every fortnight, you recognize it only after it is out of sight. But, why am I telling you about identifying familiar landmarks from an aircraft when this is about Gaggan? It is because during the course of your meal at this restaurant, you will be presented with a variety of dishes. Some will be pale and powdery, others will quiver like jelly. Put them in your mouth, however, and a sense of something familiar will wash over you. And more often than not, it is only after you have swallowed a morsel that you will realize that the frozen cake was actually warm idli sambhar! That’s the genius of Gaggan. The white colonial-style bungalow in Ploenchit, Bangkok that houses Gaggan
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Inside the bungalow, the rooms are part of the restaurant, so you never feel that you’re one of a jostling crowd of diners, because you’re dining with 3-4 other tables.
At the start of a brilliant innings, Gaggan the chef shot to prominence at his venue at Ploenchit in Bangkok in a colonial-style bungalow painted stark white. Naysayers laughed out loud. “How can an Indian restaurant outside India be taken seriously?” was the most oftasked question. Little did they know, but it was for that very reason that Gaggan was able to keep his creativity alive “because” he was on neutral turf. Within India, there is no doubt that he would have been forced to add crowd-pleasers to the menu. The service staff is Thai and the kitchen staff looks like a mini outpost of the United Nations. As for the customers, they’re residents of Bangkok: Thai, Indian, and Western. And the rest are tourists from India, South-East Asia and Europe. Inside the bungalow, the rooms are all part of the restaurant, so that you never feel that you are one of a jostling crowd of diners, because in effect, you are dining in the company of three or four other tables: the rest are in the myriad other rooms over two floors and a terrace. And the wine list is superb: Chef Gaggan and his partners – a team of strong silent men who are content to let the spotlight shine on the star himself – are all serious wine aficionados who enjoy travelling the world to pick up obscure labels at source. Even the service-ware is dramatic and custom-made, mostly in Spain. You are unlikely to see it at any other restaurant anywhere around the globe. The ingredients too are flown in from diverse sources: the pork from Iberico, the scallops from Hokkaido, and so on. Any question you may have for Chef Gaggan about his insistence on going the molecular way becomes redundant after you have tasted the first few dishes of your meal. In India, molecular gastronomy is mostly associated with smoke and spherification, but Gaggan was a part of the school run by Albert Adrià, Ferran’s less wellknown brother who was the actual researcher of the flavours that were eventually served at El Bulli. Hence, it is very unlikely that you would have encountered this level of molecular intervention elsewhere. Plus, the food has an overwhelming regional appeal to it, right down to the edible packets of sugar-coated saunf. It is brilliantly clever, yet supremely uncontrived, which is why it works so well. The menu changes frequently, so though I can recount what I was served on my last visit, it will probably have been replaced during your visit. The only item Chef Gaggan is certain he will not take out is the spoon of spherified yoghurt that is literally fed to you by the manager. “It will continue to be served till the last service,” is his final word. n
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Flavour Japan
Rib Eye Steak with Wafu Sauce and Garlic Crisps. Inset: Chef Rainer Becker of Zuma
Celebrated Chef Rainer Becker speaks to us exclusively about the authentic, non-traditional Japanese cuisine at Zuma, recently opened at the historic Fendi Palazzo in Rome.
W
hen acclaimed German-born Chef Rainer Becker met British entrepreneur Arjun Waney, the outcome was the first Zuma restaurant in London. Greatly influenced by his time in Japan, Chef Rainer Becker has introduced modern cuisine inspired by the informal Japanese dining style of izakaya. This spring, Zuma threw open its doors at the Fendi Palazzo in Rome, in a historic building with stunning rooftop views, where the lounge and bar serves a sunset aperitivo, with a DJ spinning vibrant tunes. We speak to Chef Rainer about this mini Japan in the heart of Rome. How is Zuma Rome different from other Zumas? Actually, all Zumas worldwide are the same; they share the same concept or philosophy, and menu. We have kept this in order for Zuma guests to feel “at home” in any Zuma they visit.
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It was the encouragement of Pietro Beccari, Chairman and CEO of Fendi, that won us over. It is the most spectacular location with incredible views. Fendi, much like Zuma, is a global brand, but runs like a large family.
How did the collaboration between Fendi and Zuma come about? It was the encouragement of Pietro Beccari, Chairman and CEO of Fendi, that won us over. It is the most spectacular location with incredible views. We don’t open a restaurant with a particular strategy or master plan of what it will bring, and we don’t consider Zuma a chain. Believe it or not, it has grown organically with each new destination. Fendi is a global brand, but it runs like a large family, and that is very Zuma. Through conversations we discovered a lot of similarities in our approach. It’s easier to work with people who come from the same integrity and standards. What is the philosophy of Zuma’s cuisine? Zuma is about modern, elegant, and sophisticated cuisine, which has been inspired by the more informal Japanese dining style – izakaya. This is
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gastronomy The historic Palazzo Fendi building in Rome that houses Zuma
Unique to Rome, the restaurant features, within the wine cellar, a private table seating up to eight guests. Guests dine surrounded by glass ceiling-to-floor walls, celebrating Italy’s finest vintages and boutique wines. The décor by Muramatsu has textures of carved granite and handmade floorto-ceiling bamboo lanterns. The surroundings are inspired by the four elements of earth, fire, water, and air. The food, drinks, service, atmosphere, and music come together to create Zuma. What is robatayaki (fireside) cooking all about? The robata has been positioned deliberately to enjoy views of the bustling streets below, linking the city with the restaurant. Guests can watch the flames and action as the chefs prepare their dishes.
made up of three different components: the main kitchen – offering a selection of contemporary dishes; the Sushi Bar – with dedicated sushi chefs; and the Robata Grill – a concept which originates from the cooking style of northern Japanese fishermen. Zuma offers Japanese dining that is authentic, but not traditional. Can you explain to us the concept of izakaya? So izakaya stands for informal and popular Japanese culture, where guests enjoy a relaxed dining and drinking style that embraces every element of Japanese cooking under one roof.
The hip lounge and bar at Zuma Rome features décor by Noriyoshi Muramatsu
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Izakaya stands for informal and popular Japanese culture, where guests enjoy a relaxed dining and drinking style embracing Japanese cooking under one roof.
What are the most popular dishes at Zuma? The menu at Zuma combines a variety of dishes from its three kitchens: the main kitchen, the Sushi counter, and the Robata Grill. Chefs prepare signature dishes such as Grilled Rib Eye Steak with Wafu Sauce and Jumbo Tiger Prawn with Yuzu Pepper. The menu at Zuma features dishes including Suzuki no Sashimi – Seabass Sashimi with Yuzu and Salmon Roe, and Tori no Tebasaki – Sake Glazed Chicken Wings, sea salt and lime. What is a Zuma Rome signature cocktail? We have a special version of the Spritz, the Amamizu Spritz. Where are the sakes from? The waters of Lake Biwa in the Shiga prefecture, northeast of Kyoto… The lake’s natural mineral water was made legendary in Japan by the last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshiro, who in the 15th century, created the rules that govern Japanese cooking styles and tea ceremonies till this day. n
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LE CIRQUE
MAGIQUE
T
he new executive chef at the Leela Palace New Delhi, has only been in India for a few months, but he’s already got things brewing. UK-born Chef Adrian Mellor, with 26 years of professional experience, at the helm of restaurants in hotels such as The Waldorf Astoria Malaysia, the Oberoi Rajvilas, The Peninsula Manila, and working as Private Chef for the King and Queen of Jordan, has rolled up his sleeves and is busy training, testing, and doing a lot of “back house” work to perfect what he puts out on the plate. “I want it to be a better product, and see if the menus (both at Megu, the award-winning Japanese restaurant, and the Italian-French Le Cirque), need any changes at all,” says Adrian. “Indian people are travelling; they want what they’ve seen. It’s a good challenge, and it’s nice to be able to meet someone’s expectations and exceed them.”
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Executive Chef Adrian Mellor at Le Cirque in the Leela Palace, New Delhi, delights with a menu that shows his love of fresh produce.
And today, Adrian is more than exceeding our expectations, as we go through an impeccably curated menu at Le Cirque, that reflects his love of poaching, roasting, slow cooking, pickling, and brining. “I like to braise, roast anything,” he says. “I can even make butter chicken and laal maas. I love laal maas.” The man who’s lived all over the world, admits he likes to “change and adapt to wherever (he is). You have to cook for your clientele”. As a starter, he serves up a wonderfully tarty compressed apple salad, with poached fennel and crisp pine nuts for the vegetarians. There’s also a pickled Japanese mackerel (which came in a day earlier), again with apple and fennel. The second course is an open raviolo made with celery root instead of pasta, a warm egg yolk, and served with truffles, burnt onions
This page: the interiors of Le Cirque, with a terrace that overlooks Chanakyapuri. Inset: Louis Sailer, general manager, The Leela Palace, New Delhi. Next page, from top: Salted Caramel Soufflé, Banana Tart, and Stem Ginger Ice Cream; Chef Adrian Mellor; Open Raviolo of Celeriac, Burnt Onions, King Oyster Mushrooms, Truffle Sauce.
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The penultimate course involves Chef Adrian’s favourite ingredient, lamb. “We take the saddled lamb, flatten it like a parcel, broil it and stuff it with chicken mousseline. Then we tie it, roast it for 20 minutes, wait for an hour, and slice it,” he says.
42 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
and king oyster mushrooms (these are grown locally). For the vegetarians who like their meals eggless, he’s been creative. “We made a pumpkin yolk of pumpkin purée, that recreates the yolk,” says Adrian. “Then we’ve made red wine butter sauce instead of truffle sauce.” The incredible consistency of the pumpkin yolk is as tempting on the tongue as it looks on the plate. Our third course, incredibly, features capellini pasta cooked in lobster oil, with Japanese seaweed, lots of garlic and chives, tossed and cooked on very low heat. For the vegetarians, the capellini pasta comes with eggplant marinated in miso and then baked. The penultimate course involves one of Adrian’s favourite ingredients, lamb. “We take the saddled lamb, flatten it like a parcel, broil it and stuff it with chicken mousseline (take a chicken breast, baste it with cream, add mushrooms, shallots, garlic and onions for flavour),” says Adrian. “Then we wrap it in lamb, tie it, roast it for 20 minutes, let it rest for an hour, then slice it.” What’s particularly delicious is the fondant of potatoes, which are cooked in clarified butter, salt and pepper, and served with cream spinach. The vegetarians get a goat’s cheese pie, a pithivier, which Adrian says is “just a posh word for pie”, with fermented grape juice and spinach. The dessert, for the eggless aficionados is a baked chocolate pudding while the salted caramel soufflé with stem ginger ice cream has just the right amount of tartness. For Adrian, great produce is key. “It’s all about how it’s sourced, grown, or killed, and whether fertilizers were used or not,” he says. “Not just for chefs, but for consumers.” He says that India today has great suppliers not just for microgreens, but for exotic ingredients like king oyster mushrooms. But he admits he would like to have a supplier who provides exclusively to his hotel and brand. “It also has to be something no one else can give,” he says. “And that is what we did in Singapore. For example, we went to Italy just for the truffle. Here, we’re lucky that we have owners that support us in what we do, so we can go to Japan for blue fin tuna (that costs `12,000 a kilo).” “Le Cirque and Megu are already two of the best restaurants in India, going by their awards,” says Louis Sailer, general manager, The Leela Palace New Delhi. “We’re creating a high benchmark. We have a team of 150 chefs, and we like to hear their ideas.” He conducts weekly meetings to see new creations. “I’ve worked with the best F&B in the world, and I’m amazed at what they can make.” Le Cirque continues under the brilliant guidance of its present chef de cuisine, Diego Martinelli, who is constantly inspired to source locally and bring new things to the table. With Chef Adrian Mellor at the helm, Le Cirque continues its incredible journey. n
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!
Back on the
MENU
Big-Eye Tuna Pizza Crispy-based pizza with the refreshing flavour of tuna sashimi, and the richness of truffles Ingredients »» Tortilla crust: 8-inch size, EVO, black pepper »» Red onion, thinly sliced with the grain, rinsed »» Ponzu mayo »» Big-eye tuna, cleaned, trimmed, thinly sliced »» Black pepper, very coarsely ground »» White truffle oil »» Sliced kaenip leaves »» Pea sprouts »» Sliced black truffles »» Maldon sea salt Tortilla Crust: Brush tortillas with oil and sprinkle black pepper; put on flat-top (EVO) grill and cover with sheet pans, and weigh it down. Cook until it turns golden brown and flip to brown the other side. Cool down, stacked on top of each other so it doesn’t curl. Dish Assembly: »» Brush generous amounts of ponzu mayo on one side of the tortilla. Garnish with red onions and sliced kaenip on top of the ponzu mayo.
Chef Akira Back
»» Lay tuna over onions and mayo, making sure to completely cover the tortilla (trim the edges). Season tuna with black pepper.
TV celebrity and former snowboarding champion Chef Akira Back from Las Vegas tells us about expanding his eponymous brand, and how he loves the pizza at his New Delhi restaurant.
I
t’s a homecoming of sorts. The Korea-born, Colorado-raised Las Vegas-based chef whose passion is Japanese cuisine with a Korean twist, has just opened his fifth worldwide restaurant, after Kumi and Yellowtail in Las Vegas, and two eponymous restaurants in New Delhi and Jakarta. This time, it’s in a tony district of Seoul, Korea that he’s opened Dosa, his first Korean restaurant. But growing up with an “American mind” and with Korean food prepared by his mother, his techniques have always been Japanese, honed at the famous Nobu chains of restaurants. At a table in JW Marriott Hotel New Delhi Aerocity’s Akira Back (which has been open for two years), where we meet him a few months before, he’s relaxed and happy as we sip his own branded sake, from a seventh-generation sake maker from Iwata in the north of Japan. “The chefs here are now trained on another level, that’s why the food is better,”
44 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
»» Lightly drizzle truffle oil over the top of the seasoned tuna, evenly seasoning the whole pizza. »» Cut pizza into 8 even pieces or “slices”. Transfer gently on to a plate. »» Sprinkle pea sprouts evenly on top, and add a few pieces of truffle. »» Finish with Maldon sea salt, and serve immediately.
he says. “The pizza is the best thing I’ve tasted today!” “Pork was not so big here at the beginning, and now it sells like crazy,” says Akira. “And our microgreens, for which we brought in the seeds, the locals are making money out of these!” They have a small garden in the restaurant where they grow microcilantro and other microgreens. Soon after Delhi, he opened Akira Back in Jakarta, which quickly rose to become one of the top restaurants there. He is planning to open two new restaurants, one in Bangkok and the other in Dubai, but can’t disclose the hotel’s name. “I also want to go to a relaxing place like Maldives, where the pace of life is slow,” he says. Other goals include reconverting Yellowtail in Vegas to Akira Back, have a total of around 16 restaurants worldwide, and then open a micro-brewery with an Asian flavour. And, there is a book on professional cooking in the offing, to educate fellow professionals. n
Pan-Seared Salmon Steak with Organic Grape Tomatoes and Edamame Beans Ingredients For Salmon Steak »» Salmon steak
160 gm
»» Rock salt
5 gm
»» Kerala black pepper
3 gm
»» Lime (yuzu)
1 piece
»» Edamame beans
100 gm
»» Extra virgin olive oil
20 ml
»» Cream
50 ml
»» Soy milk
100ml
For Papaya Relish »» Raw carica papaya
100 gm
»» Organic red grape tomatoes
20 gm
»» Organic yellow grape tomatoes
20 gm
»» Garlic
2 cloves
»» Lime juice
1 teaspoon
»» Rock salt
5 gm
»» Cilantro
5 gm
Method For Salmon Steak »» Marinate salmon steak with salt, pepper, olive oil, and lime juice. Heat pan, add olive oil, and sear salmon on both sides. »» Cook edamame beans in soy milk and cream, with rock salt Chef Sahil Arora
Perfecting
Salmon
Chef Sahil Arora of the Renaissance Mumbai gives Splurge an exclusive recipe from his repertoire of PanAsian cuisine, with salmon at its heart
and pepper. Once the beans are cooked, mash them. For Papaya Relish »» Peel raw papaya and grate it. Add chopped cilantro, organic grape tomatoes (cut into half), hand-crushed garlic, rock salt, lime juice, and mix well.
A tangy papaya relish pairs well with salmon
photographs by Anant Gavit
C
hef Sahil Arora, who is Executive Chef at the Renaissance Mumbai Convention Centre Hotel and Lakeside Chalet – Mumbai, Marriott Executive Apartments, brings 18 years of experience to his craft, in a career spanning various countries and cuisines. His areas of expertise include Japanese, Thai, and Chinese cuisines, and he’s also got a passion for French and Italian cooking. He shares this Asian-inspired recipe he made exclusively for Splurge using one of his favourite ingredients, salmon. Having learnt the ropes to create sushi, sashimi,
and teppenyaki at the Hyatt Regency Osaka, he was the one who introduced these three Japanese styles at the Hyatt Regency in Delhi. The Thai restaurant at Shangri-La’s Eros Hotel, 19 Oriental Avenue, that he was closely involved with, picked up a Times Food Award for best Thai food, for two years in a row. Chef Sahil counts chefs Gordon Ramsay, Jamie Oliver, and Ferran Adrià amongst his inspirations. An alumnus of the Institute of Advanced Management, Kolkata, he enjoys photography in his free time. n
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 45
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The Joy of Pasta Chef Kyle Grant shows us how to flatten the dough
The dough is hand-rolled with a pin
We took a cooking class at The Chef’s Palette by Gaggenau at Fairmont The Palm, Dubai, with Canadian Sous Chef Kyle Grant, and learnt the intricacies of hand-rolled pasta with a wild mushroom sauce. Pasta Dough
ing it, with the heels of your hands and not
stems or button mushrooms. Put trim or
folding it over on itself as you would with a
dried mushroom into a stock pot, fill with
bread dough. Re-form into a ball. Dust the
water, add thyme, and bring to a boil. Strain
work surface with a little flour. Knead the
and reserve for sauce. Warm the saucepan
»» 6 large egg yolks
dough by pushing against it in a forward
to a medium heat, add olive oil, sliced garlic
»» 1 large egg
motion with the heels of your hands, until it’s
and shallots and cook until soft. Add mush-
silky smooth (it can take 15 min). Double-wrap
room stock and bring to a boil, reduce the
the dough in plastic wrap so that it doesn’t
stock by half and add fresh thyme; reduce
dry out. Let dough rest for at least 30 minutes
the heat and let simmer for 5 minutes. Once
and up to 1 hour before rolling it through a
the sauce is hot add the cream. Season
pasta machine. The dough can be made a day
with salt and pepper. Pass through a sieve.
ahead, wrapped and refrigerated; bring to
Keep to one side to finish pasta later.
Ingredients »» 1 ¾ cups (8 ounces) all-purpose flour
»» 1 ½ teaspoons olive oil »» 1 tablespoon milk Method Make a mound of flour on a board and create a well in the centre. Pour egg yolks, egg,
room temperature before proceeding. Roll the dough through the pasta machine, going from
turn eggs in a circular motion, keeping them
Mixed Wild Mushrooms
the largest setting to the desired thickness.
Ingredients
within the well and not allowing them to
Cut the dough into the pasta you want.
»» 400 gm mixed wild mushrooms
Mushroom Café au lait Sauce
»» 4 tablespoons good olive oil
oil, and milk into the well. Using your fingers,
spill over the sides. Using a pastry scraper, push the flour toward the eggs. When the dough begins to thicken and starts lifting from the board, put remaining flour with the pastry scraper cutting it into the dough. Form into a ball. Knead the dough by press-
Ingredients »» 4 tablespoons olive oil
»» 50 gm fresh basil; Salt and pepper
»» 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
Method
»» 2 shallots, finely sliced
Slice larger mushrooms into pieces around
»» 2 sprigs of thyme
the same size as the smaller mushrooms. In
»» 300 ml mushroom stock
a frying pan heat the olive oil to a medium temperature; add the mushrooms and sea-
»» 400 ml of cream
son. Fry for around a minute and half until
»» Salt and pepper
coloured and roasted; place in a colander
Method Use dried mushrooms, fresh mushroom
46 | Outlook Splurge | November 2016
»» 30 gm fresh thyme
and leave to cool. When finishing the pasta sauce off add the tarragon and basil to the warm mushrooms. n
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The Magic of
Halogen
Usha’s Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven lets food lovers bake, roast, grill, and braise to their heart’s delight, with ease and energy efficiency. We discover its innovative features.
I
f you subscribe to an active, healthy lifestyle and enjoy experimenting with your culinary skills, then here’s a kitchen appliance that you should definitely try: the Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven, by the company that is committed to promoting an active lifestyle through various sports initiatives (marathons, golf, and ultimate frisbee), and nurturing young talent across India. Back to cooking: with the Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen oven, a one-of-its-kind innovative kitchen appliance, food lovers can now experiment with their culinary skills, with a range of options.This all-in-one cooking solution comes with 10 applications – for Baking, Roasting, Grilling, Thawing, Slow cooking, Barb-que, Braising, Roasting, Air drying and Oilless air frying. The multi-functional cooking appliance can prepare everything from starters and appetizers, to main courses and desserts. The Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven
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The digital control panel allows precise temperature and time control, ensuring that the food is neither overcooked nor undercooked. It comes with a see-through glass bowl that allows home chefs to visually check the food.
harnesses the power of halogen as the natural source of energy for effective and efficient cooking. Its dual-mode heating mechanism enables fast cooking, resulting in evenly cooked food. This oven allows users to bake, grill, and roast with zero oil, thus making it perfect for health-conscious consumers. The digital control panel allows precise temperature and time control, ensuring the food is neither overcooked nor undercooked. It comes with a see-through glass bowl that allows home chefs to visually check the food being cooked, allowing them to cook and brown to the exact level they desire. That’s not all. The portable appliance offers nine accessories and a free recipe book for consumers to try different recipes from multiple cuisines. Usha joined hands with Chef Vikas Khanna with the launch of the Halogen oven – a new category for the Indian kitchen, adding buzz and credibility around it. In addition to creating
Paneer Steak with Walnuts You can make anything in an Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven, more quickly than in an ordinary microwave oven. Here’s Chef Vikas Khanna’s recipe using the Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven. Ingredients »» 250 gm paneer »» 50 gm walnuts »» 2-3 cloves of garlic »» 1 tsp lemon juice »» Salt and black pepper to taste »» Olive oil »» 4 chilli crusts Method »» Chop walnuts and garlic in an Usha chopper. »» In a bowl, add chilli crust, lemon juice, salt, black pepper, and olive oil and mix well »» Coat the paneer with the mixture from all sides and put this in the Usha Halogen oven frying pan for 10 mins at 210 °C temperature
A Halogen oven ensures even cooking
TV films, Usha has also created 60 recipe videos with Chef Vikas Khanna. For the first time, Usha Halogen Oven publicized a pre-sale home demo in the category with 100 plus well trained demonstrators across India. This integrated, 360-degree campaign for the category creation of the Halogen oven with Vikas Khanna played a key role in establishing Usha as the “Most trusted Indian brand 2015” in the Consumer durable space – in a survey conducted by AC Nielsen and published in Brand Equity report. The product has also been bestowed with two silver awards in new product and brand activation category at the Indian Marketing Awards 2015. Vikas Khanna, five times Michelin-starred Chef said: “The Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven is an amazing product that is designed for smart kitchens and allows food lovers to experiment with their cooking skills. With an
The company has also launched the Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven 360R, which uses a dual combination mode: instant radiation heat from the halogen filament and high-velocity forced air 360 degree convection. It has four functions – Rotisserie Basket, Grill, Stick, and Skewers.
increased consciousness towards health and well-being, appliances like the Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven encourage foodies to cook and enjoy healthy yet scrumptious food without any compromises.” The Infiniti Cook Halogen oven is portable and fits easily into any niche in the kitchen with its elegant design, enabling it to blend beautifully with your kitchen interiors. Recently, the company also launched the Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven 360R, adding to its range of Halogen ovens. This oven also harnesses the power of halogen as the natural source of energy for effective and efficient cooking. The innovative design cooks tastier meals quickly, using a dual combination mode: instant radiation heat from the halogen filament and high-velocity forced air 360 degree convection. The Usha Infiniti Cook Halogen Oven 360R comes with four advanced rotisserie functions (Rotisserie Basket, Grill, Stick, and Skewers) making the Usha Infiniti Cook 360R a perfect cooking solution for multiple cuisines. The 360 degree heating with rotisserie function ensures perfect browning and even cooking from all sides without the need to manually flip food. The multi-purpose cooking appliance also comes with 10 applications – Baking, Roasting, Grilling, Thawing, Slow cooking, Bar-b-que, Braising, Toasting, Air drying, and Oil-less air frying. All in all, a great way to cook. n
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Dhaba Chic
Rustic bric-a-brac, kitschy décor, and even a truck façade adorn the interiors of Dhaba in The Claridges New Delhi
Inspired by the highway eateries of Punjab, and reputed for its full-bodied, authentic fare, Dhaba enjoys 30 years at The Claridges, New Delhi. We learn of the stories behind some of its signature dishes, and regional twists to a few favourites.
I Executive Chef Sahil Sabhlok
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t’s the quaintest feeling. You’re at the plush Claridges in the heart of Lutyens Delhi, and all of a sudden, you’re in a room with high ceilings, kitchy art, sepia studio family portraits, hanging lanterns and table fans reminiscent of a roadside eatery. Are you really in a dhaba? Yes and no. The Dhaba at The Claridges, which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, is an ode to the tremendous, robust cuisine from the heartland of India, the Punjab highways, where truckers often stop for a hearty meal and to refuel, before hitting the road again.
Dhaba at The Claridges, which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, is an ode to the robust cuisine from the heartland of India, Punjab.
Kanastree Baingan
Tiffin Chicken
The authentic dishes from Ambala to Agra, to Amritsar, have been spiced and cooked to perfection over the decades, so that today, Dhaba is experimenting with regional twists of what is offered in a real dhaba to give diners a rustic, fun experience packed with flavour. “For our 30th year celebration, we sent out our teams to the GT Road, from Kolkata to Amritsar, to bring back the best food that is served on the highway,” says Executive Chef Sahil Sabhlok, of The Claridges Hotels and Resorts, New Delhi. So from Kolkata, his chefs brought back the kathi roll with fermented pumpkin chutney, and the famous patrani maachh with rice on the same plate. “In the Bengali roadside version, they use more mustard, the kasondi green mustard,” says Chef Sahil. “Plus the biryani and pulao are different on the highway. It’s a pan biryani; as there is no time they cook the rice, make the chicken or mutton separately, and just toss it together.” Diners were delighted. It’s a far cry from the first day of Dhaba, when three cooks were hired directly from real dhabas to come and cook for The Claridges. Chef Karan and Chef Bhagwat have been there pretty much since the inception, when dishes were made over coal, on a kadai, even sitting on the floor! Today, new techniques and sophisticated kitchen equipment have been added, but the menu has not changed (only the prices!).
The signature dishes, served to us on a thali, have remained favourites for a reason. The Balti Meat, from a Delhi dhaba, had spicy, bite-sized lamb shanks. Dhabas, short on time, put meat on chulas to cook.
On our tasting menu, we tried and loved the Masala Prawns, tweaked with orange zest by Chef Sahil for flavour. The Paneer Tikka, made from homemade paneer, was melt in the mouth, an original recipe from a dhaba in Ambala near the railway station. The Murgh Malai Tikka, although a favourite did not overly impress, and the Mutton Seekh, finished in the pan tasted like a regular kebab. For the vegetarians, the Tandoori Aloo, from a dhaba in Chandigarh popped with flavour, with potato fried and seasoned with nuts and mawa. The Makai Pyaaz ki Seekh had corn and the softest paneer in a rather interesting combination, and again hailed from Chandigarh. The signature dishes, served to us on a thali, have remained favourites for a reason. The Balti Meat, taken from a Delhi dhaba, was perfectly spiced with bite-sized lamb shanks. “Dhabas, short on time, put the meat on the chula to cook,” says Sahil. “This recipe is a bit like the meat cooked in the kitchens of the Maharaja of Patiala, where everything is mixed in a degchi over slow fire and left to cook.” The Pind Chola, a bit on the drier side, is what is served with dry puri during navratras in Punjab. And the Jhinga, with bell peppers, takes after an item in a Delhi dhaba. The vegetarians held their own with Aloo Amritsari Wadi (with the wadi made by local ladies of that town) and the Kanastree Baingan (the fastest-moving item on the menu). “The baingan is roasted in the tandoor to get that slow-charred flavour,” says Sahil. “Whereas in homes, you do it in gas burners.” Dessert is a seasonal Beetroot Halwa that tastes as delicious as the carrot version, and equally satisfying. Every dhaba has its own story, and the one at The Claridges is epic. n
Pindi Chole
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 51
gastronomy The Mediterranean-inspired interiors of Sorrento
A Bite of
HEAVEN Sorrento at Shangri-La’s Eros Hotel brings the homemade goodness of southern Italian cuisine to the Capital, with Chef Luigi’s handmade artisan pastas, Neapolitan wood-fired pizzas, and made in Italy ingredients.
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hef Luigi Ferraro is amicable, with a generous smile that is as warm as the sunshine in Calabria, in southern Italy, his place of birth. He now makes Delhi his home as head of Italian restaurant Sorrento at the Capital’s Shangri-La’s Eros Hotel that’s created a buzz since its launch this spring. Working closely with the hotel’s Executive Chef Neeraj Tyagi, the award-winning Chef Luigi has brought a taste of rustic, authentic southern Italy – with food that tastes and looks homemade, with most ingredients flown in from his country. “The food in south Italy is very famous, and an important part of Italian cuisine,” says Luigi, who last worked in luxury restaurant Café Calvados in Moscow. Before that, he worked in London, Sharm El Sheikh, and New York. He’s trained in two Michelin-star restaurant Casa Perbellini in Verona, and another two Miche-
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Even the pizza flour is from Italy, as is the pasta, which dominates the menu at Sorrento. Everything is made from fresh dough, handmade by Chef Luigi. The pasta is artisanal in its quality.
lin-star restaurant in Tuscany, Arnolfo. And now, he’s in India. “I like India, Indian people, and Indian food,” he says, in the warm, wooden-accented, white-walled space of Sorrento, that also features a lovely al fresco area. And Indian diners love his food. One of the house specialties is the pizza, made in the Neapolitan style, with a soft, thin crust. “Inside, I put in yeast that my mother made for me 10 years ago,” he says. “I brought this from Italy. It rests in the fridge for a minimum of one day.” Even the pizza flour is from Italy – the brand is De Cecco and it’s the Farina di Grano Tenero “00”. As is the pasta, which dominates the menu at Sorrento. Everything is made from fresh dough, handmade by Luigi. The pasta is artisanal in its quality. Chef Luigi begins by showing us how he prepares his Mozzarella on Wheels, which comprises locally handcrafted Buffalo Mozzarella Salad,
assembled table side with toy box tomatoes, Neapolitan Basil and Extra Virgin Olive Oil (we choose the one from Sicily), rocket salad, aged balsamic from Modena, and pesto a la Genovese. “Every two or three days we get fresh produce from Italy,” says Luigi. The buffalo mozzarella is specially made for Sorrento by a manufacturer in Manesar. We try a delicious Sicilian Fennel and Fava Bean Soup. Another delicacy is the Potato Gnocchi (a typical dish from Sorrento), with Signature Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Basil, and Aged Parmesan. Then out come the artisan pastas, and we try the Tortellini Stuffed with Roasted Sweet pumpkin, and Sage Butter. “The tortellini was born in the region of Emilia Romagna,” says Luigi. There is also an array of other homemade artisan pastas, such as the fagottini, conchiglie, trecce, canestri, gigli, and the tiny agnolotti. The words just roll off the chef’s tongue as we see the incredibly creative shapes of each species of pasta.
The Neapolitan pizza, made in a wood-fired oven in front of us, is another treat. The Wild Mushroom, Buffalo Mozzarella, and Rocket pizza is quickly cut while it’s still warm. “Our pizza, from Napoli and Salerno, is very soft, as the crispy version is found in the north,” says Chef Luigi.
From spiral to shell-shaped, to bean-shaped, the selection is mind-boggling. You can have these with prawns, Italian sausage, oven-roasted duck, pork, and even farmed rabbit, as per the menu. “While making pasta note your key 3-4 ingredients,” says Chef Luigi. “Tomato, pasta, extra virgin oil, and basil. You then add mozzarella, salami, parma ham, and parmesan cheese.” The Neapolitan pizza, made in a special wood-fired oven in front of us, is another treat. The Wild Mushroom, Buffalo Mozzarella, and Rocket pizza is quickly cut in front of diners while it’s still warm. “Our pizza is very soft, and comes from Napoli and Salerno,” says Luigi. “It’s important not to overcook it. The crispy version is found in north Italy. If you want crispy, try a bruschetta!” As a plated mains dish, Chef Luigi also recommends the Black Cod – Lardo wrapped with Olio Negra, Nuts, and Roasted Forest Mushroom (“It’s very tasty.”), and the 24-Hour Braised Lamb Shanks, with Creamy Polenta from Torino (“It’s just like mashed potatoes.”), Jus, and Gremolata. And what better way to end a luscious Italian meal than with a Tiramisu? Sorrento’s is a deconstructed version, with Tender Biscuit moistened with Coffee and Amaretto, Mascarpone Cream, and a lovely Coffee Gelée on the side. Sheer heaven. n
Chef Luigi Ferraro Tiramisu
Risotto
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 53
gastronomy
go
Vegan Elite Aussie vegan chefs say that veganism will be huge in 5-10 years, at a special brunch in Kolkata, writes Amit Sengupta
Chef Nivi Das
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ward-winning Argentinian-born Australian vegan Chef Alejandro Cancino who runs the popular Urbane restaurant in Brisbane, and Aussie Chef Nivi Das (from Feisty Foods, Brisbane) say, smilingly, “We say ‘tofu’ not ‘cheese’ in vegan food” as they show their skills during a Vegan Brunch session hosted by Swissotel Kolkata a few months ago. Alejandro, who has worked with some of the most elite restaurants in Spain, Britain, and Tokyo before shifting from Argentina to Brisbane in 2012, has come on an assignment with Swissotel to prepare their vegan delights. The master chef says: “Urbane is going to be a think tank on food, where we will do four months of active cooking. The rest of the months we will research recipes and develop new culinary pathways. We will showcase our produce in the four months that we gather, and prepare during the remaining parts of the year. We are part of making a change through cuisines and our eating habits, by consciously cutting meat consumption. Our vision with Urbane is to have a restaurant with high-end cuisine.” Australian Chef Nivi Das (a Calcuttan settled in Brisbane for the last 20 years) who runs a vegan food delivery and consultancy service, Feisty Foods, says: “I am reaching out to a lot of people through vegan food. It’s about saving the planet. Most importantly, vegan food is sustainable and renewable. It’s about making a healthy lifestyle.” “In vegan food, it’s about making a choice and staying away from dairy products, eggs, and meat,” says Nivi. “Stay away from yoghurt, ghee, and paneer. I actually believe that we don’t need to go too far to veganize Indian food. We have so much to share with the world to which we have turned our backs.” Speaking to Splurge on the growing trend of vegan food, Nivi says: “There is a growing community of vegan food lovers in India. To my knowledge, there is a weekly vegan food fair in Gurgaon. People in Mumbai, Delhi, and Kolkata are swiftly turning towards vegan food. There is a vibrant online community as well. In fact, I am working on a recipe for Vegan Rosogolla.” Alejandro observes: “In India it is catching up quite fast. In Australia it is definitely growing. It’s a big thing. This trend is something which is not going to disappear. In the next couple of years, it will keep growing and probably in the next ten years, it will be completely different. In U.S.A and UK recently I was amazed at how quickly plant-based food is growing. It will be definitely different and huge in 5-10 years.” “I find that Indians are mostly vegetarian. You don’t need to have soya milk in the morning. Probably you have to replace your ghee to make it more attuned to vegan food,” says the Aussie chef. “In every restaurant in Australia, Europe, or U.S.A as far as Indian cuisine is concerned, you only get curry in different forms, but in totality the cuisine found in India is much more diverse. The variety of food in every little part of this country is massive. Indian food is much more than rice, curry, and lassi. I think in the coming years, Indian food will be huge in the global market,” says Alejandro. On being asked by Splurge when she turned vegan, Nivi,
A vegan deilcacy prepared at the Vegan Brunch at Swissotel Kolkata
Chef Alejandro Cancino in front of the Victoria Memorial in Kolkata
“There are not many celebrity vegan chefs on television. Perceptions matter a lot. There are a lot of ordinary people and stars from sports and entertainment who have taken to veganism. In some years, the number of vegan food lovers will exceed the rest.”
who runs a vegan food concept in Brisbane, Feisty Foods, says: “I turned vegan quite early in my life. In fact, when I was five, I went with my father to the local meat shop in Beckbagan and was aghast with the killing of a goat. My transformation to vegan food began from that point onwards.” However, dessert is a big challenge in vegan food. “Almond milk and coconut milk are good substitutes for milk, which is used in most desserts. It’s also about market dynamics and demand-supply. Most of the manufacturers of vegan food and ingredients are based away from Kolkata – they are in Delhi NCR or Mumbai; they hardly sell anything in Kolkata. The market in Kolkata is not yet ripe for them since the demand for vegan food is yet to peak in this city,” adds Nivi. But then a lot of international and global celebrities, including Hollywood stars and athletes have turned vegan. Arnold Schwarzenegger is vegan, says Nivi. Until you become completely vegan, remember the next time you pose for the camera or take a selfie, say ‘tofu’ and not ‘cheese’. Chef Alejandro says: “The challenge is upon us to make vegan food as cool as any other food. In the U.S.A, cupcakes are awarded as the best cupcakes, and they are vegan. We have to push to
Aussie Chef Alejandro Cancino
compete with other cuisines. Every dish or meal is different. How? I think it will take time. But if you think, ‘cheese’ is around for so many years. It will take time to get there. More demand and healthy competition will make vegan food exciting.” On being asked about the role of television and the influence of celebrity chefs on the eating habits and lifestyle of millennials, the award-winning chef says: “There are not many celebrity vegan chefs on televison. Perceptions matter a lot. There are a lot of ordinary folks and stars from sports and entertainment who have taken to veganism. In some years, there will be a tipping point when the number of vegan food connoisseurs will far exceed other cuisines.” The master chef leaves to cook up a vegan storm at Swissotel, but not without giving his parting comment on what makes for successful vegan food: “Each delicacy is different. Some will be more elaborate, while others will be crunchy and spicy. I think the trick lies in making it a good, balanced vegan dish. Balance is the key. If all the food is placid without any punch or flavours, you will miss something. So it’s important to mix up the flavours in a balanced way that lingers in the taste buds for a long, long time.” We can’t agree more. n
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 55
GASTRONOMY
London
Calling A Michelin-starred chef and an awardwinning mixologist come to town, and at a special dinner at The Lalit, New Delhi, transport us to the clean, contemporary, but flavourful European palate of their London restaurant Dabbous, with innovative cocktails to match.
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e’s the hip, 35-year-old chef who created history by getting a Michelin rating for his eponymous London restaurant Dabbous, six months after it opened, in 2012. Before that, he’d got his cooking chops with stints at The Fat Duck, Mugaritz, and Hibiscus, some of the best restaurants in the world. His business partner is an award-winning Swedish mixologist who moved to the UK when he was 20. Working together at members’-only hot nightspot The Cuckoo Club, they met and decided to launch their own establishment, and Dabbous was
Dabbous is what Chef Ollie calls a “Chinese English” product, contemporary European with that smidgen of Oriental minimalism.
Award-winning mixologist Oskar Kinberg at Oskar’s Bar
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Michelin-starred Chef Ollie Dabbous
born on Whitfield Street in Fitzrovia. With its edgy, industrial-chic NYC décor, and Oskar’s Bar downstairs, it’s quickly become known for its delicious European minimalistic food that’s high on flavour, and innovative drinks. We meet the talented genius behind this Michelin success story, Chef Ollie Dabbous, at a sit-down dinner hosted at The Grill, in The Lalit, New Delhi, by the Lalit group’s young executive director Keshav Suri, and featuring an exquisite menu by Chef Ollie and drinks by mixologist Oskar Kinberg. “I want to create interest in The Lalit London, among the city’s movers and shakers,” says Keshav of his first property abroad, due to open soon. Hence the dinner. By bringing one of the top chefs of London to Delhi, he’s also creating interest in Indian flavours. “Food at the Baluchi is the best Indian I’ve had,” says Ollie of The Lalit’s North-Western Frontier restaurant. “It’s so refined, and the spices are so balanced.” Ollie’s own restaurant Dabbous is what he calls a “Chinese English” product, European, with that smidgen of Oriental minimalism. For example, tonight’s menu features Toasted Cauliflower with Golden Raisins and Sesame Dressing as a vegetarian appetizer, and as Ollie explains, “It’s nutty and savoury with a bit of sweetness and bitterness, so you have sweet raisins and caramelized onions, and you have bitter nigella seeds. Nutty, toasted, and raw cauliflower is elegant but with maximum flavour.” The next day, he’s introducing a pea and mint dish at Kitty Su, the nightclub at The Lalit. “Peas are very English, so I’m serving a light pea mousse, set in a glass with fresh peas,” says Ollie. “Then we make a mint tea which we freeze and grate, so you get
Chef Ollie and Oskar at the dinner at The Lalit
Barbecued Aubergine, Crushed Green Herbs, and Toasted Gram Flour Pancake Charred Salmon with Toasted Cauliflower and Sesame Dressing. Inset: Wild Strawberry Tart
crushed ice with mint and a bit of chardonnay vinegar, which is acidic.” It’s this mix of flavours that has put Dabbous on the top of every London food critic’s list. Typical dishes there include Coddled Egg with Smoked Butter and Wild Mushrooms, and Barbecued Iberico Pork, Savoury Acorn Praline, and Apple Vinegar. For dessert, we are served an Ollie special, Strained Yoghurt with Barley, Raspberries, Rose Petals and Pistachio. “We’re contemporary British, but not too British,” says Ollie. “I like to indulge in creativity. If I like an ingredient, and I think it’s delicious, then I want my customer to share my pleasure.” For example, he’s just starting to experiment with Indian spice fenugreek by using it in his marinades, whether it’s chicken or
Typical Dabbous dishes include Coddled Egg with Smoked Butter and Wild Mushrooms, and Barbecued Iberico Pork, Savoury Acorn Praline, and Apple Vinegar.
quail, because it’s very “understated”. (A threecourse lunch menu at Dabbous costs £28, while a four-course dinner is for £59, and a sevencourse tasting menu is £75.) Where there’s good food, a fine drink is never far behind. With Dabbous’ house specialities being homemade ingredients, Ollie’s partner Oskar Kinberg likes to make infusions like Sloe Gins – “It’s like a liqueur, a gin infused with sloe berries that are super tart, and great to make drinks with, because you get that tannic, sour flavour,” he says. One of the most popular drinks at Dabbous is the Negroni, the trendy drink du jour for young Londoners. The Dillusion, served at this dinner, is one of their signature cocktails, with Hendrick’s Gin, dill, cucumber, elderflower, and lemon. Another popular drink of the evening is the milky King of the Swingers, with Bacardi gold, banana, coconut, cardamom, curry, milk, and yoghurt. (Prices for drinks at Dabbous start at £9,50 and go up to £30.) But Oskar’s favourite is the Thriller in Perilla, for which he shares his secret recipe: 50 ml of Martin Miller’s or Hendrick’s Gin; 15 ml lemon juice; 12 ml sugar syrup; 10 ml violet liqueur, and three shiso or perilla leaves. “Whisk these up like a mojito, and it’s done,” says Oskar. Thrilling. n
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 57
gastronomy
History on your Plate We take a walk down memory lane with United Coffee House’s most iconic dishes, and learn why they remain wildly popular today.
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s Connaught Place came to life in the Capital, in the mid-1940s, a legendary coffee house that survives to this day, was born. United Coffee House came about as a fashionable hang-out for the politically connected in the chic, up-and-coming Raj-era shopping district in the heart of New Delhi. The famous coffee shop was founded on the heels of a 24-hour bar, the Esplanade in Chandni Chowk, one of the first bars in the city, by the same owner, Lala Hansraj Kalra. “We had the best alcohol, and the best crooners,” says Akash Kalra, grandson of the founder, and head of the United Group. “A lot of British people and American GIs would come to Old Delhi, to this buzzing bar.” Today, United Coffee House still stands on the same 8,000 sq ft, inner circle spot in this iconic shopping area’s E Block, with most of its signature dishes intact. “Our earliest customers were influential people, bureaucrats, and people who visited India Gate with their families,” says Akash. With experienced chefs from Cricket Club on India, Calcutta Cricket Club, and the Gymkhana Club, trained by expat British chefs, the menu had a mix of north Indian kebabs, curries, and sandwiches. Coffee (they were the first to introduce south Indian Cona coffee to Delhi) with whipped cream, cappuccino, and espressos, was served along with European fare like cheese balls, fish fingers, cutlets, mutton chops – all iconic club dishes. In the ’60s, business boomed and 400 items were added to the menu (today there are around 300, with around 40 savoury dishes that are the most popular). “People craved paneer pakoda, cold coffee, butter chicken, daal makhni, malai kofta,” says Akash. “Mutter paneer, shahi paneer, all this came from the North-West Frontier. We also had an All-fry Hotdog, Chicken à la Kiev, Chicken Maryland, Coq au Vin, Poulet Al-
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exandre, that you can’t find anywhere else today.” Their signature desserts are Baked Alaska, Cream Caramel, Apple Pie with Whipped Cream, and the Tutti Frutti Ice cream sundae, popular with kids. With over 60 wines on their wine list, and secret recipes passed down from one chef to another (a unique HR policy ensured that cooks’ family members would be hired so as to continue the recipes down the generation), its legacy is intact. The Group has now opened a mall module, United Coffee House Rewind, in places like Mall of India to bring its Connaught Place story to a wider audience. “We were pioneers in presenting British Club Food in a coffee shop menu,” says Akash. “And today, the third generation is our patron.” n
Clockwise from top: The interiors with 25 ft high ceilings; Club food with European wine; The restaurant occupies 8,000 sq ft of prime realty; The Baked Alaska; High Tea at United Coffee House is a Raj-era tradition.
Capital Retreat
With its stunning restaurants On the Waterfront and Élan, The Lodhi provides international fine dining set in a tranquil, neo-classical setting.
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contemporary sanctuary situated on the edge of Lutyens Delhi, The Lodhi offers a club-like retreat away from the bustling city. Spread over an expanse of seven acres, the hotel offers luxuriously appointed rooms, suites, and apartments (amongst the largest in the city), a restorative spa, a lap pool, squash courts, and tennis courts, along with two renowned dining destinations, On The Waterfront and Élan. OTW, at the front of the property, combines a cosmopolitan ambience with an impeccable dining experience. The brightly lit interiors incorporate the best of contemporary open-kitchen design and a unique suspended light installation, ‘Lacrime Del Pescatore’ – ‘Tear Drops of the Fisherman’ by German genius Ingo Maurer. Designed by Michael McCann of Dreamtime Australia Design, the restaurant is split over two levels. The ground floor has a deli counter while the first floor provides a ‘dine in the kitchen’ feel with a buzzing, live kitchen in the centre. The adjoining area outside the ground level has a glassed-in ‘Jetty’ – an exclusive private-dining island surrounded by a reflecting OTW boasts of unique installations from international designers. Inset: Chilean Sea Bass with Mashed Potatoes, Buttered Asparagus, and Champagne Cream
Elan’s indoor dining space overlooks the verdant courtyard outside
pool with flames above the water, ideal for private parties. OTW presents a globetrotting bag of flavours from PanAsian and European kitchens, and offers a lunch buffet throughout the week and à la carte for dinner. The menu includes creations like grilled specialties from the ‘Robata’, Chilean Sea Bass, French Poussin, and Gruyère Gnocchi, while the deli offers fresh crêpes, waffles, sandwiches, and more. In addition, OTW also carries some of the finest wines from across the world. Élan, the hotel’s international coffee shop serves food and beverages round the clock. The restaurant is divided into three areas, Indoor Dining, The Bar ,and a tranquil open-air Courtyard. The décor is by Australian firm Kerry Hill and associates. Columns clad in Gangapur stone are placed both inside and outside to provide a sense of order that unifies the interior and exterior spaces. The Lodhi also has a charming al fresco Pool Café overlooking the swimming pool. This peaceful hideaway is perfect to relax in with simple, light food prepared to order, and has healthy offerings for those exercising at the gym or enjoying the spa. n
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 59
LIFESTYLE
At Your Service Today’s top-of-the-line specialized luxury concierge services provide that extra edge to hospitality and travel, and complement the modern-day swish lifestyles of global HNIs, writes Shveta Bhagat.
Specially curated dining experiences offer exclusive meals by Michelin-starred chefs
O No wish is too great for concierge services, from letting members pick designer bath amenities to special pillows
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ne of the biggest in the business, Quintessentially Lifestyle is the world’s leading private members club and luxury lifestyle concierge service that has now been in India for seven years, constantly meeting growing demands. They have managed to fulfill some truly extraordinary feats like closing Sydney Harbour Bridge for a member to propose at the top, and even arranging a romantic meal for a couple on an iceberg. As for travel, their members are seeking even more exotic experiences. Kanika Gogna, director Marketing, Quintessentially says, “Travel is no longer about a luxurious destination – it’s more about the experience gained. For example, today the members make their pick based on exotic experiences such as witnessing Aurora Borealis (also known as Northern Lights) in Norway, Gorilla wildlife in Uganda, or visiting the Black Forest in Germany.” Gastronomy-based experiences are another favourite. Take for example, the specially curated offering that’s called “Dining Impossible”, priced at €2,000, it’s an underground
Quintessentially offers luxury destinations; the more exotic, the better
Services in five-star hotels are known for their attention to detail, and surprising customers
dining offer als by chefs
culinary experience where they host just 14 couples in a special destination with a Michelin starred chef and a unique setting meant to woo. These top-notch concierge companies provide much more than their service; they design an experience and even make some of your most whimsical desires come true. Citing recent demands Gogna says, “Fashion has always ruled the events access roster, with requests for front row seating at Paris, New York, and India Fashion Weeks; however the recent trend has been around major sporting events like Wimbledon, UEFA and F1. Sold-out music festivals are another favourite. Our members are also often seen admiring the brushstrokes of an artist at an international art fair or enjoying a performance by renowned maestros like Andrea Bocelli.” Each client looks for trust, privacy and the fact that they are in good hands at all times, when selecting a concierge service. Recognizing the importance of personalized service, many international hotel chains now have their own dedicated luxury concierge. Conrad Pune, the first luxury hotel managed by Hilton in India, has the renowned Les Clefs d’Or concierge on
“Requests for front-row seats at fashion weeks in Paris, New York, and India are giving way to major sporting events like Wimbledon and F1. Sold-out musical festivals are another favourite, as are art fairs, and enjoying performances by Andrea Bocelli,” says Kanika Gogna of Quintessentially.
The St Amand service makes available a private jet at Mumbai’s Trump Tower
staff. They also have the brand’s signature Conrad Concierge mobile app, through which global travellers can select their every need, from a range of designer bath amenities, specialized pillows from the pillow menu, to pre-ordering a meal, among others. Speaking of customized service, Amit Midha, general manager, Conrad shares, “Recently, a guest staying at the hotel was scheduled to travel to Rajasthan with his daughter. However, due to health concerns, he had to cancel his travel plans. While arranging for medicines for the guest, our Concierge became aware of his daughter’s wish to ride a camel during their now cancelled trip to Rajasthan. The Concierge arranged for a decorated camel at the hotel’s front porch as a surprise for the daughter to ensure she is able to live her dream. She was thrilled.” It is all about attention to detail. Then there are high-end developers who realize the need for a cutting-edge concierge service to match their luxury profile. The Luxury Collection by Lodha group aims to be the world’s finest properties with NRIs and international billionaires as residents. With a host of services like a quick pick-up in a Rolls-Royce or making available a private jet at one’s disposal at The Trump Tower in Mumbai, their concierge service St Amand caters to their niche clientele. One major observation of dealing with the crème de la crème, says Vikram Madhok, managing director, Abercrombie & Kent, is that the clients are “Fast and curious”, with limited time but an unlimited budget. At present the dedicated team of A&K is busy planning the minutest detail for a New York-based billionaire who will be celebrating his 45th birthday bash at Jodhpur and Udaipur Palace. The schedule is all for four days, five nights, but the menu is being designed by a lineup of top chefs and something as simple as the tent is being designed by Jodhpur-based designer Raghavendra Rathore. Clearly no punches are pulled when it comes to service offered by these brands that are truly redefining the concept of concierge! n
November 2016 | Outlook Splurge | 61
SpiritS
Master of
Malt
Master blender Colin Scott
All whiskies are not created equal. Chivas Regal master blender Colin Scott tells us about the art of blending, to maintain the consistent taste of the 12, 18, and 25-year olds, and what goes into the incredibly rare Icon.
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irst brought to India by Scotsmen serving in the British Army, scotch whisky quickly became popular, and remains a favourite among Indians. And who doesn’t know the 150-year-old legendary luxury whisky Chivas Regal, made from a blend of malt and grain whiskies grown in Speyside, Scotland? “The brand is growing in India, and historically it has its name,” says Chivas Regal master blender Colin Scott, who was in India for a special blending session at the ITC Maurya in New Delhi, where lucky guests got to create their very own, single-edition blend. For Colin, enjoying whisky is exactly about an evening such as this one – “It’s about the brotherhood of modern gentlemen, the sharing and enjoying and partying,” he says. “You can dress up or dress down, lie on a beach or sit at a dinner table in a dinner jacket. Whisky is a drink for all occasions and all people.” Today, young entrepreneurs and professionals are looking for a taste of luxury in their 20s, and for whisky experts like Colin, it’s all about evolution. “We have to maintain the traditional drink but make it sexy for the young adult male or female,” he says. Coming from a family of whisky makers (both his father and grandfather were in the whisky business in Scotland), and growing up in the Orkney Islands to the north-east of Scotland, he grew up surrounded by distilleries. Once he joined Chivas Regal (part of the Pernod Richard group), from bottling to production, to blending and heritage, he became master blender in 1989,
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The Chivas 25 is a blend of whiskies 25 years and up
and now travels the world in an ambassadorial role to educate and inspire aficionados. “We are the guardians of consistent high quality and consistent taste experience,” he says. So a Chivas Regal 25 whether in New York, Sydney, or Tokyo gives the same experience. “The whisky may change, as per its availability every year, but it’s the art of blending where we rearrange the whiskies that are available, to bring back the same smooth, rich taste,” says Colin. By rearranging percentages of the various malts and grains, he brings the taste back to Chivas Regal. “It all comes down to the the nose and experience.” What are the blending rules to follow? “It’s all about smoothness, and richness, and the harmony that gives it the generous taste,” says Colin. “And of course we have the Strathisla single malt that lies at the heart of every Chivas Regal blend, which is the oldest operating distillery in Speyside (and the home of Chivas Regal).” The Strathisla is a full-bodied single malt that acts as the “cornerstone” to build all the other malts from Speyside around it, he explains. You may have 30-40 different whiskies inside a Chivas Regal, bought every year from different distilleries. The Chivas 12, their global icon, has been matured for a minimum of 12 years in Spanish sherry and American white oak casks, whereas the Chivas 18 has taken 18 years to mature and put together. The Chivas 25 has whiskies that may even be older than 25 years, subject to the decision by the master blender. The Icon, which
Clockwise from top: Chivas Regal’s Strathisla distillery in Speyside, Scotland; American oak barrels to mature the spirit; Copper vats used to make the whisky
comes in a green crystal decanter and costs around £2,000, is a limited release with no age statement, but as per Colin, is a purely “handcrafted blend of over 20 of our most exceptional malts”. “What you have inside the Icon is the Strathisla, obviously, then a wonderful whisky from Longmorn, which all the connoisseurs and
blenders want, and then a nice little distillery built in 1957, just across Strathisla, called Glen Keith, so those are just three, but there are many others,” says Colin.“There are also one or two casks from distilleries that no longer exist. So when you taste the Icon, you have that little nugget of taste you will never taste again from that lost distillery.” And if you want to mix up your Chivas, there is the cocktail. The master blender’s favourite cocktail is the Chivas Cooler – with Chivas 12, ginger ale, ice, and a squeeze of lime. “In India, you’d do well with Chivas, ice and soda, a nice long drink for a hot country, he says.” n
Light as Aer
The Mad Dog
As dusk falls, this rooftop lounge overlooking the Arabian Sea comes alive, teeming with celebs. We discover its most famous cocktails.
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he AER Bar and Lounge on the rooftop of the Four Seasons Hotel in Mumbai, overlooking the Arabian Sea, is something of a legend. The film fraternity recently descended upon it to celebrate the 18th Mumbai Film Festival with an evening by Chandon that saw the launch of its limited edition Party Starter bottles. Celebs like Kareena Kapoor Khan, Karan Johar, Abhay Deol, Irrfan Khan and others were spotted at the glitzy event. “AER has different phases,” says Prekshi Salwan Ahluwalia, brand manager at Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts India. “Couples celebrate happy hour with cocktails and loungy music.” The vibe then changes to hip hop music by DJ Pramod Sippy. Sonam Kapoor and Kangna Ranaut are regulars. One of the house specialties created
The Mumbai Sour, a house specialty
by mixologist Vinit was the Mumbai Sour, with 25 ml egg white, 15 ml homemade mulled wine, honey, 15 ml lavender syrup, 15ml spiced Martini Rosso, and 45 ml Black Label, shaken to create froth. He then used a stencil to create the Gateway of India. Also famous is the Phool Gali, named after Dadar’s flower market, which is a Margarita with a twist, with 15 ml Cointreau, 45 ml Corralejo Blanco tequila, 15 ml hibiscus syrup, and 15 ml fresh lemon juice, on cubes of ice and garnished with an edible flower. And to munch on, there’s Mumbai Masala Pizza, Tawa Machhi, and Prawns Koliwada! n
Adarsh jatia, owner of the Four Seasons Mumbai (left) with Kareena Kapoor Khan, US director Cary Fukunaga, and Kiran Rao
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FASHION
Wedded to
Perfection Whether for your own nuptial cocktails or those of a loved one, look sharp in Ermenegildo Zegna’s luxury made to measure formalwear, with attentive advisors and a wide choice of fabrics and cuts.
S Dark green velvet jacket , with black mohair trousers and dress shirt
ince 1910, Italian luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna has been dedicated to creating elegant men’s tailoring, with a focus on excellent service and a choice of the finest fabrics, and for over 40 years, it has been creating individualized Made to Measure wardrobes for men. With the wedding season in full swing, it is the right time to look at one of the maison’s fortes, the ceremonial Made to Measure suit.
Black wool ‘smoking’ or tux in peak lapel, white shirt, black gros grain bow tie, white foulard scarf, and patent calf-leather laceup shoes. A modern classic
One-button peak lapel burgundy evening velvet jacket, with ceremonial white shirt and bow tie, and black silk and wool trousers
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It all starts with the fabric. The Made to Measure client can choose from over 400 types of fabric that are unchanged classics over the years, from the best mills, with another 250 that change with the seasons. Ask for the special ceremonial fabrics, from rich velvet to glossy silk, lustrous mohair, and superfine merino wool. You can even commission a specific weave, made in the Lanificio Zegna wool mill in Trivero, northern Italy. For the jacket, the foundation of the look, you will select the lapel shape, from classic notch to the in-trend broad peak lapel; the Italian Milano or Structured Torino cut; a classic tux style or the India-inspired bandgala, the Zegna Guru jacket or the sleeveless Guru; pockets; lining; buttons; and whether you want a single or double-breasted suit. As your pants are being measured, Zegna advisors will ensure that they hang just right, and whether you want the legs tapered or straight leg. In a tuxedo pant you will have a single stripe running over the side seam. The Made to Measure shirt lets you choose the collar, cuffs, and pocket detailing. You can also choose a monogram or a tailored wing tip collar. To complete the look, ties, shoes, and accessories can all be made to measure, along with silk pocket squares and monogrammed leatherware. You can channel the black-tie dress code, without the cummerbund or bow tie, and just don a silk scarf and suede slippers. n
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FASHION
Impeccably Italian Tod’s headquarters in Ancona, Italy
We take a look at Italian fashion maison Tod’s serene headquarters in Ancona, and discover the genesis of two of its most iconic and instantly recognizable leather accessories, the Gommino shoe and the D-Bag.
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hen it opened its elegant glass doors for the first time in 1998, Italian luxury fashion maison Tod’s created a revolution of sorts. An ultra-modern building made of pale Italian marble with gigantic glass windows that overlook the crisp, green scenery of Le Marche, near Ancona, in the heart of the country, it is a factory and office that features state-of-the-art technology, modern design, and innovative ideas – a superb working environment for employees, hitherto unheard of. The central compound measures a generous 85,000 sq m, and the headquarters includes an auditorium for lectures by international speakers and as a venue for exhibitions, a kindergarten for the employees’ children, a gym, a restaurant, and a replica of one of the company’s boutiques, to give the employees a better understanding of the world of Tod’s. “This is a rare working environment, especially in Italy,” says Diego Della Valle, President and CEO of the Tod’s Group. “I wanted to give something back to my employees and create a truly unique work environment. For me, the headquarters symbolizes the dream behind the product. If we make the best product in the world, we need to give our employees some of the care and attention that we put into our shoes. Then the level of quality and the attention to details that you find in our products will be ensured.” A 16,000 sq m factory, built relatively recently beside the headquarters, has become the biggest production centre for luxury footwear in Italy. Where was the idea of the iconic Tod’s shoe born?
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Floor-to-ceiling glass windows and modern design at Tod’s
In the late 1970s, inspired by his travels to the States, Della Valle discovered a relaxed attitude to dress, and realized that people needed a beautiful, well-made shoe that could be worn in a professional, elegant, or casual environment. He developed a design concept and this evolved into the now internationally renowned Tod’s luxury moccasin, with its trademark 133 rubber pebbles on the sole. A new wardrobe “must have” was born. It was named the Gommino. In 1997, Tod’s expanded its collection, introducing a classic, modern yet chic bag collection with the iconic D-Bag, which perfectly reflected
Della Valle discovered an American, relaxed attitude to dressing, and the need for a shoe that could be worn in an elegant environment.
Diego Della Valle, President and CEO of Tod’s
The office of Tod’s President and CEO, Diego Della Valle
the spirit, quality, and design of the Tod’s shoe collection. Its successor, the New D-Bag is a tribute and celebration of this Tod’s iconic bag. Softer, with no lining, a hand-cut finish, and with a contemporary silhouette, this bag is ideal for its practicality and beauty. Each step in the construction of every individual piece in the Tod’s collection – shoe or bag – is a marvel of craftsmanship, from the cutting of the leather to the hand-sewing of the parts, and it’s this handmade quality that makes each style durable and beautiful. All Tod’s products are entirely Made in Italy. This is one of the greatest strengths of the company, and attracts customers who truly appreciate Italian craftsmanship. Women as diverse as Gwyneth Paltrow, Julia Roberts, Sarah Jessica Parker, Cameron Diaz, Drew Barrymore, Uma Thurman, Scarlett Johansson, and Anne Hathaway have chosen the brand for their wardrobes, not only for the red carpet but also for day-to-day use. The philosophy behind the iconic shoes and bags is what drives Tod’s to ensure that every piece receives the same level of research in development, and attention to detail in manufacture. Over 100 steps go into the creation of a Tod’s shoe, from the hand-cutting of the pieces that will form the basic structure, to sewing together all of the indiThe D-Bag is also handmade
The best leather in the world is used in Tod’s products, bags or shoes
An artisan sewing a Tod’s Gommino shoe
The Tod’s warehouses store some of the finest leathers in the world; some pieces take years to get the right shade and texture.
An artisan makes the iconic Gommino moccasin by hand
vidual parts. Depending on the design of the shoe, there can be up to 35 pieces of leather required. The Tod’s warehouses store some of the finest leathers from the best tanneries in the world. Some pieces take years to get the right shade and texture. They monitor the colour, thickness, and texture, so that they are uniform, and those that don’t comply to the high standards are rejected. A similar process is involved in the making of the bags: the production is similar to that used by ancient saddle makers. Each bag has a distinctive small steel nib at its bottom for protection; these nibs are a characteristic detail of many Tod’s products. Last year, the Tod’s Group had consolidated sales of €1.037,0 million, and employs more than 4,500 people. The Group now has 257 directly operated stores and 98 franchised stores worldwide, including India. n
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wanderlust
Rediscovering
Zurich
This ancient Swiss city boasts of stunning churches, and a picturesque Old Town. Take a walking tour to discover its sights, and sate your hunger pangs in the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant.
Clockwise from top left: The interiors of vegetarian restaurant Hiltl; A scenic, aerial view of Zurich city; The pretty promenade of the Niederdorf or Old Town, with its cafés and boutiques
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ounded by the Romans in the 1st century, Zurich is today the cultural capital of Switzerland. Take a walking tour to discover its rich history, and the secrets from its past. Your first stop should be the Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s main shopping boulevard, home to fashion boutiques, art galleries, and stylish cafés. Admire the Alfred Escher statue, built for this famous pioneer and politician. Take a tour of the Old Town to experience its multifaceted past. One of the city’s biggest landmarks is the Grossmünster or Great Minster built by King Charlemagne at the site where saints Felix and Regula were discovered. Don’t miss the Peterskirche (Peter’s Church) in the Schipfe quarter, which has Europe’s largest clockface, and the Fraumünster (Minster of Our Lady), with stained-glass windows by Giacometti and Chagall. Learn of Zurich’s 16th-century silk industry in Schipfe, and take a stroll along the Niederdorf, with quaint boutiques and cafes. There is also the Town Hall, remains of the Roman bath, and views of the Limmat River seen from the Lindenhof. The two-hour Walking Tour is on Wednesday and Sunday at 11am; Saturday at 3pm, in English. It starts from Zurich Toursimus office at the Hauptbahnof. (Price: CHF25). To sate hunger pangs, head to the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, Hiltl, founded in 1898 (as per the Guinness Book of World Records), with the oldest vegetarian ‘butchery’ shop. Dishes are prepared daily, the attraction being a buffet that serves up to 100 dishes for vegans and vegetarians, with lots of Asian cuisine. There’s also a pâtisserie, with the best brownies in town. Travel easily to and fro Zurich and in Switzerland with your own Swiss Travel System passes, valid for 12,000 miles of travel in the country, on trains, buses, and even a 50 percent discount on cable cars! (A 3-15-day pass on 1st class: CHF336-704.) n
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Mediterranean Marts
From left: The façade of the Central Market in Valencia; Mounds of fresh fruit in La Boqueria in Barcelona; The 100-year-old San Miguel market in the heart of Madrid.
These Spanish gourmet markets are storehouses of flavour. In addition to stocking up on fresh produce, you can also sample local fare from Madrid and Toledo, to Barcelona, Seville, and Valencia. Come taste the goodness.
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o embark on your Spanish gourmet market journey, start with the century-old San Miguel market in the capital, Madrid, located beside the Plaza Mayor Square. Move to San Antón in the city, that has three different environments, one for top-quality products, the other for show cooking, and the third with a restaurant and terrace. There’s also the Platea market, laden with delicatessen in a space that looks like an old theatre, or head to the San Fernando market in Lavapiés, with its bars and shops selling curios, with a unique atmosphere. The Augustin market in Toledo has five floors of culinary pleasures, from cured ham to fine wine and cheese, to cake, all next to UNESCO World Heritage monuments. In Barcelona, you can’t miss La Boqueria, a landmark market where you should stroll the aisles to imbibe the colours and aromas of the stalls.
You can also taste the fare, and participate in cooking courses with famous chefs. At the Santa Caterina market in Barcelona, the multicoloured, wave-shaped roof houses fresh produce and tapas for sampling. The Princesa market in the El Born quarter, in a 14th-century building, lets you sample local food. Moving to Seville, make sure you visit the Lonja del Barranco market, where you can dine al fresco, gazing out over the Triana neighbourhood, or by the banks of the Guadalquivir River. There are also cooking courses, gastronomic visits, and exhibitions to take part in. The market is in a building that brings to mind Eiffel, who is said to have initiated the design. In Valencia, the Central Market is perfect to find typical local products for you to take home, and savour in stalls and bars. There’s also the fish market in Mahón that is famed for its lively atmosphere. These are but a few of the famed Spanish markets to enjoy creative cuisine... n
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Parting Shot
CATE THE GREAT Australia-born two-time Academy Award®-winner Cate Blanchett is all set to turn on the action in the first allfemale version of the iconic Ocean trilogy. But right now, she’s doing serious theatre with her Broadway debut.
Cate Blanchett turns heads in a black and ivory silk wool gown from Gucci’s Spring Summer 2017 collection, at the IWC Gala Dinner in honour of the British Film Institute, in London this October. She also wears a bird-motif ring in turquoise enamel and Swarovski crystals.
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Image Courtesy of Getty
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seven-time Oscar nominee, this actress first won the world’s attention with her riveting performance of Queen Elizabeth I in Shekhar Kapur’s 1998 biopic Elizabeth, and her first Oscar nomination. She later picked up two Oscars, Best Supporting Actress for The Aviator, and Best Actress for Woody Allen’s Blue Jasmine. She’s recently relocated to Los Angeles from Sydney with husband Andrew Upton and four children in tow, including 20-month-old adopted daughter Edith. A Hollywood heavyweight, and star of the Lord of the Rings trilogy, she’s cemented her position with recent releases Cinderella and the award-winning Carol. She was recently seen sporting a blonde bob, filming in New York City with co-stars Sandra Bullock and Helena Bonham-Carter, for Ocean’s 8, the all-female remake of the trilogy that starred George Clooney, Brad Pitt, and Matt Damon (this version also stars hunk Damian Lewis of Homeland fame, and Indian-American TV star Mindy Kaling). Cate also made her Broadway debut October end in her husband’s adaptation of Anton Chekhov’s first play, Platonov, in a production entitled The Present (Sydney Theatre Company). This fall has seen plenty of announcements of her forthcoming films, including playing the role of comedienne Lucille Ball in an untitled biopic, the role of Hela in Thor: Ragnarok, and the voice of serpent Kaa in the animated Jungle Book. n
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