THE JACKET PROJECT
INTRODUCTION The aim of the project was to understand a complex garment, Jacket. We travelled back for tracing of the emergence of the garment, its historical, geographical, social, cultural, political and technological, aspects associated with it. The idea was to develop a process of our understanding of making a jacket, incorporating techniques learned throughout the terms. Further, we build a narrative based on forecast study, where we derive our own concept from the trends impacting our lives on a day to day basis. basing upon our client and above study, we will represent a version of our own understanding of our jacket along with range development and final jacket as our outcome.
A jacket is a short, lightweight jacket overgarment usually made up of sleeves and some form of collar with an opening along with front fastenings, closed by a variety of means. Many variations , silhouettes , fabrics and details have evolved aver a periof of time. The jacket seems to have originated during the Middle Ages or early Renaissance as the jerkin, which is a more fitted version of the short tunic worn by working-class men. The history of the coat is deeply rooted in military and naval backgrounds. The coat has been around since the 1800s when the first variation was worn by the Dutch at sea, and it was made from coarse wool fabric. The British navy started the popularisation of the jacket. It was a version of the coat that was similarly designed for naval duties, as a uniform for petty officers. Most of the coats were double-breasted which could be buttoned all the way up to protect one from the harsh elements. In India, The Nehru jacket is a variation of the Jodhpuri where the material is often khadi. The jacket began to be marketed as the Nehru jacket in Europe and America in the mid-1960s.
UNDERSTANDING JACKET, IT’S DETAILS AND LINING THROUGH TECHNIAL DRAWINGS.
While the jacket evolved with time from its utilisation with physical labour, the military, hunting activities and evening dinners, the jacket had also evolved amongst women who started working in the 1920’s in the US workforce. And it gave way into coats and capes for women.
REVERSE ENGINEERING Reverse Engineering is a technique by which an object is deconstructed in order to reveal it;s design , cnstruction and elements. A secong hand jacket was sourced from flea market in order to dismantle and open it stitch by stitch to understand the layers within. .the shown below is a type of Parka jacket which was initially undertood through various various and technical drawings inside out.
Some extracts from my journal witnessing detaills, components nad panels of each part in detail. deconstruction of the jackethelped us introduce to new terminologies of jackets and build an understanding thehidden components inside a jacket which can be a crucial part of it’s construction. Also, familiarising ourself with each component details, materials used, pattern of making, the construction, an introduction to lining and revelance of each part.
Flap
Flap 2 PIECE SLEEVE pocket bag
PATCH POCKET ( upper left side)
DECONSTRUCTED JACKET
BIAS FINISH-
IN SEAM POCKET ( left)
Flap
INSEAM POCKET ON LEFT SLEEVE
pocket bag puller belts cuff fasteners
IN SEAM POCKET (right)
TURN-UP SLEEVE CUFF
2 PIECE SLEEVE (quilted lining)
BACK PANEL (patched)
BRAND LAB CUFF PANEL - lined with FAUX FURR
zipper for detaching shell & lining
QUILTED LINING BACK
QUILTED LINING FRONT DETACHABLE LINING PARTS
care labels
Flap for hiding the zipper SHOULDER YOKE (both side)
COLLAR STAND
5mm width METALLIC ZIPPERS
Zipper detaching inner linging
ZIPPER EXTENSION FLAPS (both sides)
2 panelled front FRONT JACKET SHELL
Flap for hiding the zipper
FRONT JACKET SHELL
WAIST DRAWSTRING BAND
INNER ZIPPER EXTENSIONS
Waist & hem DRAWSTRINGS
DETACHABLE HOODIE - PARTS
HOODIE OUTER SHELL PANELS (sandwiched)
BEL
HOODIE FURR LINING
HOODIE FLAPS
HOODIE INNER LINING KNITTED FAUX FURR attached to hood lining Flap for hiding the zipper
HOODIE INNER SHELL PANELS (sandwiched)
Zipper detaching hoodie buttons and fabric loops for detaching hoodie
QUILTED HOODIE STAND Drawstring stopper
hoodie BRAIDED DRAWSTRING CORD
The deconstructed jacket is a type of Parka jacket produced by a local manufacturing brand puli jels. The jacket consists of various layers i.e. the outer jacket shell, the detachable lining and a detachable hoodie. All the shell parts are made up of cotton twill and lining parts are made up of polyester blend - silk tafetta. The shell is majorly stitched using denim thread and lining, using cotton thread. all the panels were well finished using bias bound and flat felled finishes. finishes Major lining parts are quilted with non -woven polyester interlining. interlining Outer shell of the hood is sandwiched with 2 layers and the lining is attached with faux furr which reflects outside while wearing it. also, a knitted man-made furr layer is attached at the edge of hood. Faux furr is also lined at the cuff of the sleeves which can be worn as turn-up sleeves (where furr comes on top of the cuff. Trims like puller belts, metallic zippers , metallic snap buttons, flat buttons and fabric hooks are commonlu used in the jacket for securing and detaching layers. Also, braided drawstring cords are located at the hoodie, waist and jackem hem for fastening. There are multiple zipper extension flaps and multiple inseam as well as patch pockets with several mock stitch lines. Also, other mock details are also added to make the jacket interesting.
Parka is a large windproof jacket with a hood, designed to be worn in cold weather. the term ‘parka’ means ‘animal skin’ derived from nents language.
As clothing materials and pro in the 1900s, the parka idly. Synthetic materials wer protect against moisture, win an military ,Helicopter pilots, al film crews also began necessary tool for survival
Caribou Inuit (from Northern Canada), an indegineous group of hunters, invented a garment known as Amauti made from caribou (reindeer subspecies) or seal skin for warmth and protection from cold weather during hunting.
CARIBOU INUIT
JOURNEY OF P A R K A
Amauti , a woman’s traditional garment, a coat with Amauti. a pouch on the back used to carry a baby. The baby is carried in a pocket, called an amaut in Inuktitut, found underneath thehood at the back of the coat. This keeps it safe and warm against the Arctic cold while leaving the woman’s hands free to work.
FISHTAIL PARKA
AMAUTI Innovation futherleading to Fishtail parka, including 3 variations, The M-48, M-51, M-65 called such because the split tail looked like the tail of a fish. The true innovation came from the drawstring at the end of the fish tail that the soldier could tie around each leg, which trapped more heat which kept them warmer during Korean War.
During the early to mid-1960s, some of the pioneers in the mod subculture adopted the original army parkas as protection for their much-prized bespoke suits while on their scooters as a sense of liberation and became a symbol of youthful rebellion. The parka becomes synonymous with Vespa and Lambretta scooters, modern jazz music and youth culture. Film star Phil Daniels of iconic 70’s film Quadrophenia even wears Parka London for the film’s anniversary celebrations which mkes it even more famous amoungst youth.
SNORKEL PARKA
US military in the mid-twentieth century adopted park-style overcoats as the optimum choice for pilots and foot soldiers stationed in cold climates. In 1943, Eddie Bauer developed a flight suit, the B-9 Down Parka for the USAAF during WWII crafted with a more weather-resistant cotton/nylon-blend.
MODERN DAY PARKA
A
MOD SUBCULTURE - a symbol of rebellion
oduction techniques evolved designs advanced rapre created and utilized to nd and cold. The Canadiscientists, and internationto adopt the parka as a while working in Canada.
Brainstorming of TRENDS STUDY AROUND US
For developing a narrative out of a trend, I was supposed to choose something which I commonly see an emerging trend around me . Usually amongst my conversations, i come across commonly, how people have been dealing with mental health issues
ADDRESSING MENTAL HEALTH ISSUES
BRAINSTORMING SHEETS- extracts from journal
SELF EXPRESSION
LOST AND FOUND
UNCAGED
BREAKTHROUGH
HEAL
TRaNSFORMation
VULNERABILITY
‘Owning our story and loving ourselves through tha process is the breakthrough we need’
THE CONCEPT As humans, we have the ability to feel mentally, contain our emotions. People remain in their own shell in the fear of judgement: caged within their own selves. Being in solitude is not treated as a way of self-introspection, instead treated vulnerably. From this we form a kind of facade, a a mask to hide these emotions from exposing to the world. It seems that even though in out modern day soceity, with so many platforms offered to us, we still find it difficult to express our true selves. That is apart of what defines us and show to somethig that is organic to us. I want to take this trend into a positive approach whith the need to adress of revealing true self. a medium for healing where people own their process and express freely their story to other. the macro trend for AW2020 talks about a transformation and giving people a comforting space to release their burden. It is a revolutin to heal, transform, breakthrough and expressing individuality strongly. It will be a trend for those who have been LOST and feel the need to be FOUND. This will be a key direction to build further narrative, mood and colors , shapes and silhouettes will be defined as the anchor points are defined further
M O O D
B O A R D
I LAY IN THE DARK SOLITUDE TAKES A SEAT AND WATCHES ME I CAN FEEL HIS COLD PRESENCE MY MIND RACES I BEG FOR DAYLIGHT LET THE SUN FILL ME WITH THE WARMTH DAYLIGHT DECIEVE ME AND I AM TRAPPED LET ME FIND A WAY OUT.
RESEARCH
Experiential therapy is a therapeutic technique that uses expressive tools involving sensory experience which changes the way you feel and think by creating experiences which acts on subconcious level by convolving our senses. So i wanted my garment to depicts a mlood of freedom, comfort , breakthrough and cure. become an experience in itself that which will help people breakthrough their inhibitions and, cure and express freely. This became a narrative for taking forward my micro trend and connecting to various shapes , silhouettes, details and forms of a jacket
C A T A L O G U E
DESIGN INTERATIONS
range development
Colour
F I N A L
variations of final design
D E S I G N
Pattern making and construction of my jacket is done using the measurements of 38 size dummy since it is unisex garment. . Further, the series of the pictures shows my process of muslin construction and evolution of my design process..
Firstly, the additional layered panel of my jacket is constructed. there is an 5’’ inseam pocket along the seam in between. it is then finshed by stitching shell to facing and lining. Also, eyelids are done before stitching another parts. Pocket is contructed with inverted pleats and patched onto the shell layer. The shell and layered panel are then stitched with yoke.
Then back main layer is constructed by stitching shell and linning with zipper. Then, back short layer and main layer are stitched to back yoke shell and lining. Now all the side seams and shoulder panels are attached ;shell to shell and lining to lining. The two-piece hoodie shell and lining were constructed and then patched together, The hoodie was then attached to neckline along with Stand collar .
MUSLIN CONSTRUCTION PROCESS
Then, back short layered jacket is constructed by joining shell and lining layers to the zipper This was the part where front lining is stitched with back lining and front shell to back shell.The same process is being repeated for both the sides. Then, all the shell parts are stitched together..
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FINAL MUSLIN garment Two piece sleeve was the most challenging amongst all since it had a slit at the elbow level which was finshed the the lining.After stiching and finishing all the parts , eyelids were done on the armhole and and sleeve . A 1.2’’ inch margin was left between each eyelid. it was challenging since fitting of the sleeve and alignment of eyelids came to be uneven.
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MUSLIN FITTINGS
After muslin construction, the fitting shoot helped me develop my design further. Essentially, the fitting of the sleeve came out to be uneven due to improper alignment of eyelids. Front flap was disturbing the symmetry, so it has to be removed. hoodie is smaller in comparison to the garment, so it needs to be more volluminous. The fitting needs to be more oversized and armholes need to be shifted inside for the accurate shape of sleeves. The shape and size of the pocket was improportionate to the jacket so it was converted into double patch pocket with snap button detail on top. Further, Short layered jacket was not highlighting, so incorporation of piping at the joineries with a contrasting color for aesthetics. Trims like matte drawstring, snap buttons and metallic zipper to be incorporated invfinal garment.
Hoodie is attached to the main bodice from the shoulder line; back neckline only. Piping detail at the edge of collar.
Total length 31 6/8’’
For detachable sleeve, Eyelets positioned both across the sleeve and armhole at the distance of 1’’ each. (1/2 inch eyelids). sleeve and armhole are then interlaced together with a polyester matte finished cord.
4 1/2’’ 2 6/8’’ 4’’
1.1/8’’
1’’
9’’ 29’’
Inseam pocket between the seam with the opening 5.5’’ and 5‘‘ pocket pouch.
Total armhole 19’’
18’’
17’’
12’’
9’’
sleeve length 26’’
5.5’’ Inseam pocket
8.5’’ 12’’
8.5’’
14’’ 12’’ 25’’
Total width 40’’ 1’’
2..5’’
slit width 5’’ 6’’
In the middle of the sleeve, is a 5’’ slit at the elbow level for the movement. At the bottom, there is a shaped cuff attached to side seam which secures using snap button at the wrist.
Inside pocket
8’’ 2’’
A double-patch pocket detail at the bottom of the jacket. The front pocket is made using knife pleats invertedly from both sides and is secured using snap buttons. The lower pocket is a small pocket made using inverted box pleats.
A double layered jacket with multiple openings and interesting pocket details along with detachable sleeves and hoodie highlighting with metallic trims, piping and interalcing cords.
6’’
DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS, MEASUREMENTS AND DETAILS
FINAL TRIMS
FINAL Fabrics
BLACK NIGHT
dutch satin
KEY DETAILS & ELEMENTS POLY TAFFETA (LINING)
Fabrics Sourced
KNITTED INTERLINING
UNISEX JACKET
GARMENT : SANYA MANGAL MODEL : VANSHITA BATHAM PHOTOGRAPHY: UJJWAL SINGH