Fall Flavours
Puffs, Fondue, Pasta, Strata, Soufflés, Cupcakes…
Discover
Fine Cheese Essentials
All the Best from Alexis
Fall 2009
Editors
Pamela Nalewajek and Fabiola Barone (La Maison Alexis de Portneuf inc.)
Photographer
Martin Vigneault
Accessory Stylist
Mychèle Painchaud
Food Stylist
Denise Giguère
Food Stylist Assistant
Marie-Ève Girard
Translator
Judith Berman
Graphic Artist
Éric Rowe
Coordinator
Martine Labelle This free publication is produced by Lepore Media for La Maison Alexis de Portneuf inc. Discover all the cheeses from La Maison Alexis de Portneuf Inc. and learn about their craft at
www.alexisdeportneuf.com Cette brochure est également offerte gratuitement en français.
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FFine Cheese Essentials BUYING SELECT CHEESES NEARING THEIR ‘’BEST BEFORE’’ DATE Shopping for fine cheese is not like shopping for milk – don’t look for the one with the most time remaining until the ‘’best before date.’’ To enjoy the full flavor of fine cheese, serve it one to ten days before the expiry date. If you are looking for cheese to eat right away or within two or three days of purchase, you generally can’t go wrong with sale items. They tend to be at their peak! STORING FORGET THE PLASTIC WRAP Want to save your cheese without smelling up the fridge? Wrap it in aluminum foil or place it in an air-tight container and store it in the vegetable drawer. Some cheeses, such as very old Cheddar, are best stored at room temperature, wrapped in a special cotton cloth. You can also use a damp dish cloth sprinkled with a few drops of vinegar. Place the wrapped cheese in a cake keeper. Stored properly, cheeses will preserve their taste for three to four weeks. FREEZING WATCH THE CLOCK! Freezing cheese is not recommended and should only be used as a last resort. You’re better off buying only what you need. While all cheeses
can be frozen, they start to lose flavour within four hours of defrosting. If you must freeze your cheese, separate it into individual portions. That way, you minimize flavour loss, and the small servings can be handy for cooking. TASTING FROM CLASSIC CHOICES TO EXPERIMENTS WITH BEER When we buy imported cheese, we tend to choose wines from the same region. However, my mentor Pierre Androuët (founder of Confrérie de Saint-Uguzon, named after the patron saint of cheese makers) taught me that red Sancerre pairs well with all types of cheese. Recently I’ve discovered that the same is true for Pinot Noir. And, voilà! No more mistakes. On hot summer days when you want something cool, the latest trend is to drink imported beer or local brews with cheese. The combination is worth trying. Start with milder cheeses and work your way up to the stronger ones, applying the same logic to the beer. You could serve white or blonde beer with goat cheese, then Belgian beer with Camembert and finally some amber or brown ale with blue cheese. By Louis Aird Expert Director of Import / Export Fine Cheeses Guilde des Fromagers Embassador (North America)
Summary 4 Raclette Cheese Puffs
6 Pasta with Greens
8 Celeriac Puree with Cheese
10 Goat Cheese Cupcakes
5 Bonaparte Fondue
7 Two-Salmon Strata
9 Individual Upside-down Goat Cheese Soufflés
11 Baked Cheese in Pastry
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T
Tip
To make individual cheese puffs, drop the dough by small spoonfuls onto the parchment paper and bake the same way, reducing the baking time by one-third.
Raclette Cheese Puffs Servings: 12 Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 45 minutes
90 g (3 oz) 150 ml (2/3 cup) 150 ml (2/3 cup) 3 140 g 5 ml (1 tsp) 5 slices 30 ml (2 tbsp) To taste
unsalted butter, cubed water flour eggs sliced Kingsey Raclette cheese, chopped Dijon mustard smoked bacon, cooked, drained and crumbled chives, thinly sliced salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 200˚C (400˚F). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a saucepan, heat the butter and water until the butter is melted and the mixture is boiling. Remove from heat, add the flour all at once and stir with a wooden spoon until the dough forms a ball. Return the pan to the stove and dry the dough over medium heat for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Transfer to a bowl and cool on the counter. Beat the eggs into the mixture one at a time. Add the Kingsey
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raclette cheese, mustard, bacon bits, chives and seasonings. Using two spoons, shape the mixture into a 25 cm (10 in) ring on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake in the middle of the oven for 20 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 180˚C (350˚F) and bake another 25 minutes until the ring is nicely puffed and golden. Turn the oven off and leave the cheese puff inside for another 15 minutes with the oven door slightly open. Serve on a wooden plank and slice with a serrated knife.
Kingsey raclette cheese You’ll love the rich aroma and fruity flavour. Enjoy at the end of a meal, in sandwiches or on burgers.
The Bonaparte won 1st prize in the soft cheese category at the 2009 American Cheese Society competition.
Bonaparte Fondue Servings: 4 Preparation: 15 minutes Cooking: 5 minutes
250 ml (1 cup) 20 g (2/3 oz) 45 ml (3 tbsp) 2 500 g (1 unit) 30 ml (2 tbsp) 250 ml (1 cup) 1 pinch 10 ml (2 tsp)
boiling water dried shiitake mushrooms butter shallots, chopped finely Bonaparte cheese, peeled and diced corn starch apple cider or light white wine sugar (optional) garlic, minced
For dipping Sufficient quantity
blanched asparagus tips, bread cubes, and tiny new potatoes, cooked and halved
In a bowl, pour the boiling water over the dried mushrooms, cover and let sit for 30Â minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid. Chop the rehydrated mushrooms, return to the soaking liquid and set aside. In a saucepan, melt the butter and sweat the shallots for 5 minutes. Add the chopped mushrooms and their liquid. Bring to a boil and reduce until the liquid is almost completely evaporated. Add the cider and bring to a boil. In a bowl, toss the Bonaparte with the corn starch. Add one third of the cheese to the saucepan and stir gently with a wooden spoon. Repeat with the remaining cheese, one-third at a time. Heat the mixture to just below boiling. It should be nice and smooth but not too thick. Remove from heat and stir in the minced garlic. Add a little sugar, if desired, to neutralize any bitterness. Serve in a fondue pot with the bread and vegetables for dipping.
T
Tip
It’s easier to peel the cheese if the rind is firm. Place the whole cheese in the freezer for 90 minutes, then remove the rind with a sharp knife.
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Pasta with Greens Servings: 4 Preparation: 25 minutes Cooking: 15 minutes
1/2 bunch 1/2 bunch 60 ml (1/4 cup) 3 cloves 1 90 g (3 oz) 250 ml (1 cup) To taste 450 g (1 lb) 125 g (1 unit) 45 ml (3 tbsp)
rapini (broccoli raab) Swiss chard olive oil garlic, peeled and smashed leek, white part only, sliced thinly spicy pancetta, sliced thinly vegetable stock salt and freshly ground pepper gemelli pasta La Sauvagine cheese, cubed toasted pine nuts
Trim the flower ends off the rapini, leaving 5 cm (2 in) of stem. Set aside. Cut the remaining stems into 2.5 cm (1 in) pieces. Set aside.
When the garlic is browned, remove it and discard. Add the leeks and pancetta to the garlic-flavoured oil and cook until the leek is softened and the pancetta is lightly browned. Add the vegetable stems, the stock and the salt and pepper. Cover and cook 4 minutes. Add the chard leaves and rapini flowers and cook, covered, another 2 minutes. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain the pasta, return it to the pot and add the vegetable mixture. Toss gently and add the La Sauvagine cheese at the last minute. Transfer to a serving dish and top with the pine nuts.
Cut the chard into 2.5 cm (1 in) slices. Reserve the leafy part with the rapini flowers and the stems with the rapini stems. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat and add the garlic. La Sauvagine was named Grand Champion at the 2006 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix and won the Public’s Choice award at the 2007 SÊlection Caseus contest.
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Coeur de Lion Camembert has a thin, natural rind, a fragrant flavour and a classic creamy texture.
Two-Salmon Strata Servings: 6 Preparation: 15 minutes Cooking: 45 minutes
3 150 g (5 oz) 30 g (1 oz) 250 g (1 unit) 375 ml (1 1/2 cups) 250 ml (1 cup) 6 30 ml (2 tbsp) 15 ml (1 tbsp) 15 ml (1 tbsp) To taste 6 wedges
croissants, in big cubes cooked salmon, flaked smoked salmon, in small pieces Cœur de Lion Camembert cheese, diced milk sour cream eggs onion, chopped capers, drained fresh dill, chopped salt and freshly ground pepper lemon
Generously butter a 22 X 30 cm (9 X 12 in) baking dish.* In a bowl, gently combine the croissant pieces, both salmons and the Camembert. Spread evenly in the bottom of the prepared dish.
In a bowl, beat together the milk, sour cream and eggs by hand for 1 minute. Add the onion, capers, dill, salt and pepper. Pour over the salmon mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12 hours. Remove from the refrigerator and place on the counter for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180˚C (350˚F). Bake in the middle of the oven for 45 minutes or until the mixture is nicely puffed and well browned and the eggs are cooked. Serve with lemon wedges.
T
Tip
*You may also use a soufflé dish, in which case the strata must be cooked for 15 minutes longer.
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T
Tip
Use parsnips instead of celeriac for a delicious variation.
Celeriac Puree with Cheese Servings: 4 to 6 Preparation: 15 minutes
450 g (1 lb) 2 stalks 2 60 ml (4 tbsp) 125 g (1 unit) To taste To taste
Cooking: 25 minutes
celeriac (celery root), peeled and diced celery, in very small dice potatoes, peeled and diced butter Caronzola cheese, well chilled, rind removed, diced freshly ground pepper fresh herbs
Cook the celeriac in boiling salted water for 15 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook until both vegetables are fork tender. Drain and return to the heat to evaporate excess water. Pass through a food mill and add the butter. Add the Caronzola cheese and pepper and mix well. Serve with fresh herbs of your choice.
Caronzola The mild blue, delicate and creamy.
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T
Tip
* These little soufflés are a real treat and may be prepared up to 48 hours in advance. Simply reheat and serve!
Individual Upside-down Goat Cheese Soufflés Servings: 6 Preparation: 30 minutes Cooking: 25 minutes
75 ml (1/3 cup) 60 ml (1/4 cup) 45 ml (3 tbsp) 150 ml (2/3 cup) 125 g (1 unit) 3 To taste 5 Sufficient quantity Sufficient quantity
walnuts, toasted and finely chopped flour butter milk Paillot de chèvre cheese, diced egg yolks salt and freshly ground pepper egg whites gourmet lettuce homemade vinaigrette
Preheat the oven to 180˚C (350˚F). In a small bowl, combine the walnuts and 10 ml (2 tsp) of flour. Generously butter 6 ramekins. Sprinkle some of the nut mixture into each ramekin, tipping so that the nuts stick to the bottom and sides. Discard any excess. In a small saucepan, melt the butter and add the remaining flour. Cook 3 minutes over medium heat then add the milk. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, cook 2 minutes, remove from heat and let cool in the pan.
Add the Paillot de chèvre cheese, egg yolks, salt and pepper and stir well. Set aside on the counter. In a bowl, beat the egg whites until almost stiff. Delicately fold one third at a time into the cheese mixture. Divide the mixture among the 6 ramekins. Cook in a bain-marie (hot water bath) in the middle of the oven for about 25 minutes. Carefully remove the whole pan from the oven and leave the ramekins in the bain-marie for 15 minutes. Run a sharp knife around the edge of each soufflé and gently unmold upside-down onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Refrigerate.* Before serving, preheat the oven to 210˚C (425˚F). Place the soufflés in the middle of the oven and heat until they puff up, about 10 minutes. Serve on a bed of gourmet lettuce that has been tossed with the vinaigrette of your choice. Paillot de chèvre won the Silver medal in its category at the 2008 World Cheese Awards.
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T
Tip
These cupcakes can be frozen in their paper liners. Before serving, bring them to room temperature on the counter for one hour.
Goat Cheese Cupcakes Servings: 12 Preparation: 25 minutes Cooking: 30 minutes
250 ml (1 cup) 45 ml (3 tbsp) 4 logs, 100 g each 125 ml (1/2 cup) 2 1 10 ml (2 tsp) 125 ml (1/2 cup) 30 ml (2 tbsp)
ladyfingers, crushed into crumbs butter, melted plain Caprichef cheese, at room temperature sugar eggs egg white rum extract sour cream sugar
Topping To taste Sufficient quantity
cocoa powder berries and small pieces of fruit
Preheat the oven to 175ËšC (325ËšF). In a bowl, stir together the crumbs and the butter. Place cupcake liners in 12 muffin tins. Place an equal amount of buttered crumbs in each one and press down with the back of a spoon to make an even crust. In a bowl, beat the Caprichef cheese, sugar, eggs, egg white and rum extract until smooth, about 2 minutes. Divide the mixture evenly to make 12 cupcakes. Bake in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes or until set. In a bowl, combine the sour cream and sugar. When the cupcakes are done, remove from them from the oven and spread the sour cream mixture over the tops. Return them to the oven for 5 minutes, then cool at room temperature and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Carefully remove the cupcakes from the pan and peel off the paper. Sprinkle with cocoa powder and top with fruit.
Caprichef is available in 2 other flavours: garlic and fine herbs, and peppadew. Try them both!
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Brise du Matin & Le Calendos
Perfect on a cheese platter or for cooking!
Baked Cheese in Pastry Servings: 6 Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 35 minutes
125 g (1 unit) 30 ml (2 tbsp) 30 ml (2 tbsp) 2.5 ml (1/2 tsp) 1 sheet 1 15 ml (1 tbsp)
Brise du Matin (or Le Calendos) cheese apricot jam fresh apricots, chopped fresh rosemary leaves, chopped frozen commercial puff pastry egg yolk cold water
Sufficient quantity
hazelnut bread
Place the cheese (Brise du Matin or Le Calendos) in the freezer for 1 hour. With a sharp knife, remove the top rind and place the cheese in the refrigerator. In a bowl, combine the jam, apricots and rosemary. Set aside.
Roll out the dough into a 22 cm (9 in) square. Place the whole cheese in the middle of the square, rindless side up. Spoon the apricot mixture over the top of the cheese. Beat the egg yolk with the cold water and brush the edges of the dough with the mixture. Bring two opposite corners of the dough up over the cheese and seal together well. Repeat with the other corners. Turn the cheese over and place on a parchment-lined plate (sealed edges down). Refrigerate for 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 200ËšC (400ËšF). Turn the cheese over (sealed edges up) and transfer to a 15 cm (6 in) round baking dish. Brush with the egg yolk mixture. Bake in the middle of the oven for 35 to 40 minutes or until the crust is nicely browned. Remove from oven and let rest 30 minutes before serving with the hazelnut bread.
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