8 minute read
Whitehouse Art
HISTORIC RESTAURANT
preserves paintings from the past
All while serving savory patriotic cuisine and abundant helpings of hometown hospitality on Ballston Spa turf
Nestled in the heart of Ballston Spa’s charming commercial district along the Milton Avenue stretch of Route 50 is a historic hospitality setting that longtime patrons and newcomers alike concur is a jewel in Saratoga County’s cultural crown.
WRITTEN BY ANN HAUPRICH | PHOTO (ABOVE) BY SUPERSOURCEMEDIA.COM | HISTORICAL PHOTOS PROVIDED
Precisely what was on the menu or whether any artwork adorned the walls within the establishment that welcomed its first guests as The White House Restaurant & Café in 1856 is uncertain. What is certain is that the succession of patriotic proprietors who operated businesses on the premises since its brief incarnation as a hotel in the early 1900s are richly deserving of a heritage preservation award. In addition to maintaining the architectural integrity of the pre-Civil War structure where Eggs Washington are offered alongside Eggs Benedict, all have done their part to ensure the preservation of an art-historymuseum-worthy collection of hand-painted murals that were crafted by a talented guest in exchange for room and board just over a century ago. The latest to have the masterpieces entrusted to their care inside of the white stucco landmark are David and Karen Fabian, who became President and Vice-President of the establishment now known as The Whitehouse Restaurant & Bar when they acquired it in 2001. The fact that none of the nine now framed oil paintings were signed by the mystery guest who reportedly created them from now antique postcard images and that some of the structures immortalized in the artworks have long since vanished from Ballston Spa streetscapes and surrounding landscapes only adds to their intrigue, notes Karen. The eyes of those who pass by the intersection of Milton Avenue and Front Street in 2022, for example, are drawn to a United States Post Office on the southwest corner and O’Brien Pharmacy on the northwest corner. But during much of the 1800s, the bustling Eagle Hotel stood on what is presently USPS property while the world-renowned Sans Souci resort graced an entire block on the opposite side of Front Street. The latter had boasted a grand ballroom with magnificent chandeliers that led to a courtyard where an ornate gazebo with drilled natural spring waters had delighted affluent visitors from far and wide.
The Eagle Hotel on Front Street. Copy of Sepia print by W. Bronson Taylor,
courtesy of the Maurice "Christopher" Morley Collection
The largest of the paintings is an 8’ x 4’ rendering of the Hides-Franklin Bottling Plant whose exquisite castle-like design had included some 500-million-year-old fossil formations. The exquisite multi-sided stone structure along Malta Avenue near Ralph Street was demolished in the mid1900s and replaced by ranch-style houses. A smaller painting near the restaurant’s entrance depicts how the log cabin built by early Ballston Spa settlers Michael and Nicholas McDonald was believed to have looked in 1763. Other mesmerizing works-of-art capture the lines of the Old Iron Spring and the original (and still thriving!) Medbery Inn on Front Street as well as an image of The Aldridge Hotel before the still standing landmark that dates back to 1792 earned acclaim as “The First Respectable House at Brookside” – among other scenes that capture the spirit of bygone eras. While the paintings are enjoyed by those seated at the 17 tables that can accommodate up to 71 guests in the front and back dining rooms, one need only enter the adjoining bar where an additional 16 guests may be seated to find pictorial evidence that Franklin Pierce was President of the United States when the original Ballston Spa White House opened its doors. No need to debate who succeeded Pierce following the November 1856 elections because a portrait of James Buchanan is displayed to his right within a gallery that honors all Presidents from George Washington to Joseph Biden. And there’s still room for nine more – which will take us into 2057 – the year of the 250th anniversary of the village's charter. And while the POTUS gallery, vintage oil paintings and other historic artifacts and memorabilia contribute enormously to the ambiance, the year-round success of The Whitehouse Restaurant & Bar would not be possible without a combination of additional winning hospitality industry amenities that are important to its eclectic clientele. Those who patronize the Whitehouse run the gamut from blue and white-collar workers to military veterans and retired citizens from virtually every hop, skip, jump and walk of life. Tourists who patronize the food and beverage establishment include those visiting the nearby National Bottle Museum and the Saratoga County History Center at Brookside Museum. During the summer months, guests additionally include representatives of NYRA and tourists bound for such neighboring destinations as the Saratoga Race Course. On Sundays, the interior resembles an interdenominational gathering with “regulars” stopping by on their way to or from church services. “Our customers include Baptists, Catholics, Episcopalians, Methodists and Presbyterians,” laughs Karen, who sometimes jokes with customers “The President will be cooking your eggs this morning.” She and David, who is the Whitehouse’s head chef as well as its manager, note that rather than calling to reserve tables, many “regulars” instead call only to “unreserve” tables. “We actually keep a list by the phone of who to expect on a regular basis on which dates and times,” smiles Karen, who thoroughly enjoys being a hostess on weekends, but works full-time as a computer programmer during the week. The Fabians are quick to salute the service of “Second-inCommand” Wendy Vedder Williams. The Ballston Spa High School alum rose to the ranks of Assistant Manager after demonstrating excellence in all aspects of the business, including those of a chef. Even though both Karen (nee Crawford) and David have deep village roots, each had gone on to forge distinguished careers outside of their hometown prior to the turn-of-the-millennium. Although Karen is now able to work from a home-based office in Ballston Spa, at the time she and David became Whitehouse proprietors, she had been commuting to a professional tech setting in the Albany area while he had amassed a wealth of management experience representing a national restaurant chain that took him as far away as Springfield, Massachusetts and Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
Hides-Franklin Bottling Plant in Ballston Spa. Courtesy of Maurice "Christopher" Morley Collection.
McDonald's Cabin, 1763 as depicted in this painting inside The White House Restaurant.
The White House 1856 to 1933
The Fabians, who are looking forward to celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary in 2024, were also busy in 2001 parenting daughter Ashley (BSHS Class of 2007) and son Joshua (BSHS Class of 2010.) Ashley went on to earn a business degree from Le Moyne College in Syracuse while Josh graduated from SUNY’s College of Agriculture and Technology at Cobleskill. Ashley Fabian Buligione now serves as Quality Control Manager for a home health care company in the Syracuse area while Josh is self-employed as a cultivation specialist at JFabian Consulting, LLC. He also helps on weekends in the Whitehouse kitchen alongside his father (a BSHS Class of 1979 alum). Worth noting is that if the bussers and servers at the Whitehouse seem to be “class acts” offering exceptional hospitality and service, it’s because (like Ashley and Josh before them), they truly take pride in being courteous, efficient and modeling a stellar work ethic. “The majority of the young people we employ are either Ballston Spa Central School District or the Saratoga Springs City School District students or alums of the high schools in these districts. This is often the first place many members of our wait staff and our kitchen help ever worked.” notes Karen, a SSHS Class of 1977 graduate. “Some continue to work here part-time while attending college so there’s a lot of continuity and a family-like atmosphere.” The aromas originating in the kitchen further enhance the ambiance. Popular menu items run the gamut from the aforementioned Eggs Washington and Eggs Benedict to Eggs Reagan. Traditional omelets made with three large eggs laid by local cage-free hens are served with home fries and a choice of whole wheat, rye or homemade Italian toast. Bacon, ham and sausages offer tempting side dishes, as do corned beef hash, grits and oatmeal. Then there are the breakfast sandwiches and wraps, including offerings with such veggies as green peppers, onions, mushrooms and tomatoes. In keeping with changing times, the restaurant also offers low carb omelets, sans home fries and toast, as well as specially prepared breakfasts for kids under age 10. Luncheon customers may choose between soups and salads, appetizers and entrees as diverse as sandwiches and wraps made with roasted turkey, grilled chicken or corned beef to quesadillas to fish fry with coleslaw. Then there are the scrumptious burgers prepared using lean beef! And while American-as-apple-pie dessert choices are no longer on the menu, you can bet guests who opt to sample a certain “Specialty of the (White) House” will leave with warm memories of a different sort of freshly baked goods. The homemade edibles in question begin as dough that rises early in the mornings so it may be savored as homemade bread and rolls fashioned by President David himself. Now that’s something to write home about – perhaps on the back of a picture postcard that can be hand-stamped by a USPS clerk on the property where The Eagle Hotel once stood! To learn more, please call 518.885.6797 or visit the Whitehouse Restaurant & Bar on Facebook. SS
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