[kohn-shuh s] a comprehensive guide for sustainable shopping
by Sarena Foster
table of
[contents]
3 5 47 73 95 97
introduction apparel accessories beauty get involved conclusion
[introduction] Style is a way to define who we are. We show off our style through the clothes we wear, the makeup we put on and how we decorate our spaces. However, in today’s modern world, everything we do has an impact on the Earth and the people that inhabit it. The retail industry has much more of an impact than the average consumer realizes.
[3]
Did you know the textile industry i.e. fashion and home goods, is the second leading environmental polluter only after the oil industry? And in 2013 1,137 people died and 2,500 others were injured in the collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh? Inditex (Zara), Mango, Primark and Walmart were some of the major brands that manufactured at Rana Plaza. That same year 2 audits were conducted by Primark on the building which completely missed major hazards, and on the day of the collapse the building owners forced workers inside despite the significant foundation cracks that appeared the day before.
[kohnshuhs: intro] The growth and development of Fast Fashion has altered the behavior and needs of the target consumer which in turn influences the supply chain. Fashion is now viewed as a disposable commodities that can be tossed away with no second thoughts because one, the price was cheap, and two the quality was never good to begin with. At the expense of this cycle are the landfills that these products will sit in for thousands of years because they are made of cheap man made materials that do not decompose. The garment workers that are pushed to work unimaginable hours in unsafe conditions only to take home cents a day are also at the mercy of this devastating retail cycle. This book hopes to provide some great insight on some of the most sustainable and fashionable companies that are in business today. Each business listed does amazing work to ensure their products are created by people that work acceptable hours and make a living wage. These brands also fight to reduce their impact on the environment and just as important, these companies are creating products that are made with quality and reflect the style and trends of the conscious woman. If you want your clothing made sustainably in fair supply chain working conditions, let your shopping habits do the talking. Thankfully, following the healthy lifestyle trend seen throughout many sectors, the fashion and retail industry has begun a greater following for transparency and sustainability. Even fast fashion giants like H&M have sustainable collections, whether those collections offset the impact that their main lines have on the environment and people has yet to be seen. Sustainability in the retail industry will only continue to grow especially after COP21, the United Nations Climate Change Conference, which resulted in representatives from 195 countries adopting a legally binding agreement to fight climate change. This agreement will no doubt affect the way all industries, including retail, function in the future.
[4]
[apparel]
[5]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
Apparel is one of the easiest categories to find a plethora of sustainable options. Apparel may be one of the easier for brands to offer sustainable options in as well because fabric is the main component. Because of this, many brands have an even greater opportunity to not only focus on environmental impact but also the ethics of their labor practices. There are choices for all styles, from eccentric to minimal, trendy to classic as well as price ranges from affordable to luxury. There are options for everyday pieces like underwear to special occasions like weddings. This section will offer 10 or so of some of the best brands, catering to your range of preferences.
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reformation
[7]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
thereformation.com reformation reformation jointhereformation
$$$ 28-648
[
]
We make killer clothes that don’t kill the environment
[8]
Type
Garment
Industry
Difference
H2O
153 gal
181 gal
28 gal.
CO2
9 lbs.
13 lbs.
4 lbs.
Ref Scale tells you exactly what cost each piece has on the environment in terms of CO2 and water. It measures the resources used throughout our supply chain and the life of our clothes, shows how it compares to industry standards, and shows the total amount saved by purchasing Reformation.
In 2009 Reformation was created by Yael Aflalo in downtown Los Angeles. Reformation is one of the more trend driven sustainable apparel brands. Their collections are driven by the idea of women’s empowerment and often have witty names like “Don’t Call Me Cute”. They always source locally first and use new sustainable fabrics, repurposed vintage clothing and leftover deadstock fabric that designers and fashion houses over-ordered to create their collections. In total about 80% of their supplies are local or domestically obtained.
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Their headquarters in LA cover functions from design and e-commerce operations to sewing and shipping. You can only find Reformation products online and at their own boutiques in LA California, Soho and the Lower East Side in NYC. In general e-commerce uses about 30% less energy than traditional brick-and-mortar stores. In their traditional store locations Reformation is cutting waste by using recycled hangers and reusable tote bags and limiting their inventories in general. All of their facilities in LA use 100% renewable energy. They also use LED lighting, Energy Star-rated appliances, and they take part in Greywater Action to irrigate the vegetable garden they planted at the HQ. Reformation donates textile scraps to nonprofits and local school as well as compost organic waste. These steps are helping them reach zero waste goal.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
Reformation is also very proud of their fair labor practices. More than ¾ of the management team are women and a significant portion represent people of minority. Most of the hourly workers are paid more than the minimum wage which is $10 per hour. All full time employees including the manufacturing team receive health benefits and one paid day off a month just for volunteer activities. Reformation offers some great information about the environmental impact it takes to create each product and how it compares to traditional industry standards with the Refscale. They also offer information about garment care which is really important considering 2/3rds of the carbon footprint of a garment comes after it’s been purchased. And in each order you receive a shipping label which you can use to mail old items that you no longer wear back to reformation, and they will recycle it for you; they call it “The Lazy Person’s Guide to Recycling”.
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prana
[11]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
prana.com prana prana pranacollective prana
$$$ 12-279
[
Inspire healthy, active, and freespirited living
] [12]
All In | In All We seek out MATERIALS from sustainable sources
Our PEOPLE are treated fairly
In 1992, Beaver and Pam Theodosakis started prAna in their garage in Carlsbad, California after noticing a lack of stylish clothing for yoga and rock-climbing enthusiasts. PrAna is driven by the idea that companies should give back more than they take from the world. They offer their products online, at the brand stores and through a number of retailers online and through brick and mortar. At prAna they make the most of energy efficiency by purchasing renewable energy credits to offset the energy used not only at the headquarters but also at the stores and at employee homes.
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The PROCESSES we use improve our industry
And because Carlsbad California doesn’t offer industrial composting services, they brought that function in house. Overall, prAna is well known for their traceability. They know which farm each bolt of cotton comes from and even trace materials that are more controversial like wool.
In the manufacturing of prAna good they make sustainable choices when it comes to sourcing material, how they treat employees and they process the use to complete manufacturing. The sustainable materials prAna uses to create their products are either organic cotton, recycled wool, hemp, recycled polyester or repurposed down. prAna also partners with Bluesign systems which is a company that monitors and implements practices that reduces the environmental impact of the supply chain by eliminating harmful chemicals from manufacturing.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
yogademocracy.com
In 2010 prAna partnered with Fair Trade USA to bring basic rights like having a voice in the workplace, safe working conditions, higher earnings and for men and women to be treated equally. Through the fair trade certification, prAna manufactures at factories that are certified. PrAna is also a member of the Fair Labor Association whom they collaborate with to help them become more successful in improving the human rights and working conditions of those that work in their factories.
Yoga Democracy focuses their products on colorful designs and bold patterns. Their tops and shorts are created using recycled nylon that consists of fabric remnants, fishing nets and carpets. Their printed leggings are 78% recycled polyester from 100% post-post consumer product. All of their products are manufactured in the U.S. at their Arizona workshop.
PrAna uses recycled paper products in their office supplies and packing materials and are also partnered with Canopy a company that works to eliminate the use of wood fibers harvested from endangered forests.
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everlane
[15]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
everlane.com everlane everlane everlane everlane everlane
$$$ 28-648
[
]
Radical Transparency. Know your factories. Know your costs. Always ask why.
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Material $6.18
Hardware $.60
Labor $17.62
Duties $3.90
Transport $3.96
True Cost $30 Everlane $80
Due to a lack of design inspiration and retail innovation, venture capitalist Michael Preysman quit his job and created Everlane which launched in 2011 from San Fransisco California. Everlane offers simple, classic pieces that you can find exclusively online for women, men and children. Everlane is best known for their radical transparency. This philosophy allows the customer to be fully educated on Everlane’s supply chain procedures from the factories, workers, production costs and markups. Not only does Everlane want their customers to have access to supply chain information they want them to ask questions, not only about Everlane’s strategies but also of the apparel industry in general.
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Traditional Retail $150
Pricing transparency really sets Everlane apart. Traditionally, a designer shirt can be marked up by at least 8 times the original cost. For most items Everlane shows the breakdown of costs from materials, hardware, labor, duties and transportation. They show the total cost of each piece and then Everlane’s cost versus traditional retail costs. Everlane’s prices are never more than 3 times the original cost to create the product.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
Everlane spends months and sometimes even years researching and vetting factories to manufacture their apparel and accessories. Their manufacturing factories are located both overseas in and the United States. You can find information about all the factories that Everlane works with and what products each of them create. Everlane creates strong bonds with the owners of each factory to bring the best quality and value to each piece. They not only describe how they came to work with each factory but also which materials are used, where they come from and special projects. For example, the Silk and Shirt Factory located in Hangzhou, China was a recipient of Everlane’s Black Friday Fund, which donates profits made on Black Friday to improve workers recreation time. At the Hanzhou factory, Everlane used their Black Friday Fund to create a basketball court for the workers.
[18]
celia grace
[19]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
celia-grace.com celiagraceweddingdresses celiagracedress _celiagrace hello@celiagrace.com
$$$ 500-3,200
[
]
An exquisitely ethical wedding dress collection that gives back
[20]
Celia Grace began in 2010 after founder and CEO Marcie Muehlk couldn’t find any sustainably made wedding dresses for her special day. With the help of head designer Alix Kivlin, they began created dresses with meaning to not only brides but also the seamstresses and the environment. Celia Grace is a member of the Fair Trade Federation which helps people break the cycle of poverty. Through this organization Celia Grace promotes “Trade, Not Aid” strategy which is based on impoverish countries having easier access to trade with wealthier nations rather than more developed countries just sending money and supplies until they run out of money.
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Working with the Fair Trade Organization also helps to ensure that none of the people Celia Grace employs whether direct or indirect, will be children. Instead of using petroleum based materials, Celia Grace’s wedding dresses are made from natural fibers like organic cotton grown in India and Eco Silk, which is created by growing mulberry trees and raising silk worms without the use of pesticides or antibiotics. All the fabrics are hand woven on traditional wooden looms preserving cultural traditions in Cambodia.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
minna.com.uk
The seamstress is a vital person for the creations of Celia Grace dresses. They have short bios on the Celia Grace website of some of their seamstresses. And a moving quote about how Celia Grace is empowering women and changing lives.
“Working for companies like Celia Grace gives us a chance in life. We get to have a salary every month and we learn every day about our work. When we first started, some of us could barely sew. Now, we are all skilled.�
Described as eco luxe, Minna started out as a love for vintage clothing in southern England. Now Minna dresses can be found world wide and have even been featured in Vogue and Elle Magazine. Each dress is hand embellished and made with the top quality organic, recycled and locally produces textiles. Minna also carries a line of childrenswear which is created using end of the roll fabrics
[22]
honest by
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[kohnshuhs: apparel]
honestby.com honest by.
$$$ 55-915
[
]
The world’s first 100% transparent company.
[24]
Honest by was created in 2012 by head designer Bruno Pieters when he returned to Antwerp Belgium after a global escapade learning about local cultures and fashion in the developing world. Honest By offers a unique comprehensive breakdown of the transparency of their supply chain, products and pricing. Through extensive research Honest By is able to trace every element all the way to the farm that the cotton was grown on. They collaborate with a number of other designers that also value creating products in a “life friendly way”.
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The transparency beings with information about the materials used in each product. Each fabric that is used has its own information section which includes, the origin of the raw materials, name and location of the spinner, weaver, dyer and supplier and the supplier’s online contact. There is also a complete supplier list complied for easy access. The material information goes into further detail with the sewing thread, brand label, size label, Made In label, care label, security seal, hang tag, thread for the hang tag and safety pins.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
Each of these items is then broken down by cost. The price of each detail is multiplied by the amount used to create the total which is then added to other costs like manufacturing, the cost to create a new collection and wholesale and retail markups which are all calculated based on a single item. Animal Welfare covers products that are investigated in collaboration with the National Sheep Associates with regards to genetic modification, tail docking and ear notching of sheep. Skin Friendly covers products that have certifications with Oeko-tex which protects the public for harmful materials, SACL which monitors organic farms, JOCA who produce Japanese organic cotton, IVN which monitors composition and dyes and the Global Organic Textile Standard which is the leading processing standard for organic fibers.
While browsing the Honest By website you can filter by 6 different categories. Organic displays items whose main material content is certified organic. Vegan products do not contain any leather, wool, silk, horn, shell or any other substance obtained from an animal. Recycled pertains to both fabric and yarn that is created by using post-consumer waste. European products are manufactured exclusively in Europe.
[26]
azura bay
[27]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
azurabaycom azura_bay azurabay
$$$ 21-290
[ ] Luxurious ethically made & eco-friendly lingerie, swim & loungewear.
[28]
Azura Bay is a relatively new sustainable shopping option. Based in Winnipeg Canada, founder Ashley McIntosh launched the online boutique in November of 2015. After volunteering at Ten Thousand Villages, a nonprofit fair trade market, Ashley became interested in workers’ rights. She combined that interest, with her need to find apparel brands that fit her values of stylish, high-quality and good fit, plus ethically made and eco-friendly. She does the work of vetting brands so you have a one stop for all your lingerie, loungewear and swimwear needs.
[29]
Above all, the brands Azura Bay consists of must use ethical production strategies and show transparency. Each brand also represents values of handmade production, fair trade and eco-friendly production and material choices. The most common materials used are organic cotton, “end of the roll” fabrics and recycled fabric like Vitamin A’s Ecolux material which uses recycled nylon. All the brands are also located locally, whether in Canada or the United states. In terms of packaging, Azura Bay only uses products that are between 80-100% recycled as well as biodegradable packing tape which are all Made in The USA.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
ALAS alasthelabel.com
A portion the proceeds from each purchase at Azura Bay is donated to and organization of your choice that protects the environment or supports human rights. These organizations include, Nature Conservancy of Canada, the largest conservation program in Canada that works with public and private entities to preserve the natural landscape and wildlife. Because I Am A Girl is another Canadian organization the funds are donated to. BIAAG aims to end gender inequality and improve that status of girls and women. You can also choose to donate to the World Wildlife Fund of Canada which aims to conserve biodiversity and reduce pollution and waste.
Kelly Elkin and Betony Dircks in 2011, ALAS is based in Sydney Australia and focuses on relaxed silhouetted sleepwear. They believe they have a responsibility to respect the people that create their garments and to respect the environment. Each piece is created using GOTS certified organic cotton that is grown in India. The manufacturing also takes place in India at a sweatshop free, fair trade facilitate.
[30]
eileen fisher
[31]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
eileenfisher.com eileenfisherny eileenfisherny eileenfisherinc eileenfisher
$$$ 17-948
[
]
We don’t want sustainability to be our edge, we want it to be universal.
[32]
Eileen Fisher starter her company in 1984 just outside of New York City with only $350 in her bank account and no idea how to sew. Now Eileen Fisher the company is the largest B Corp certified women’s fashion brand not only in New York but out of the more than 1,500 other companies. B Corp certified companies voluntarily meet high criteria for social and environmental performance and tractability. Eileen Fisher’s socially conscious mission is to support women through social initiatives, practice business with utmost respect for human rights and guide their product and practices toward a sustainable environment.
[33]
Environmentally Eileen Fisher considers all parts of the supply chain from fabric dyes to customer washing machines. They consider the impacts that chemistry has at each of these stages. They partner with the bluesign® standard which has certified dyeing processes and educated their consumers of the benefits of hand washing rather than dry cleaning. They also use organic fibers, recycled fibers and sustainable fibers like hemp and Tencel®.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
Eileen Fisher aims to empower their workers socially and economically and give them a voice in the work place. Currently they are in the midst of a 6-year project to create better working conditions for homeworkers that hand-loom their scarves in West Bengali villages in India. Eileen Fisher believes in more than just raising money to support women and girls; they want their community and global efforts to help women become leaders and to give them a voice that brings awareness and creates a deeper connection.
Eileen Fisher also believes it is a responsibility of theirs to use their influence to help change government policies regarding environmental, social and economic development and protection. They work with Business for Innovative Climate and Energy Policy (BICEP) which shapes regulations both locally and globally. Their principles include promoting energy efficiency and renewable energy initiatives, increasing investments in clean energy and supporting climate change adaptation and forest preservation. Eileen Fisher also works with the American Sustainable Business Council (ASBC) which promotes a positive role that businesses can place through education and advocacy to influence policies.
[34]
g-star raw
[35]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
g-star.com gstarraw gstarraw g-star gstarraw
$$$ 40-810
[
Just the product.
] [36]
Saitex International Dong Nai (VN) Ltd 977 Workers
73% Female Workers
27% Male Workers
In 1989, Dutch brand G-star Raw was created by Jos Van Tilburg, and is now a leader in luxury denim and apparel. Best known for their raw untreated denim, G-star now has a wide variety of products and continues to grow through iconic collaborations. Their creative outlook on denim is upheld by their Raw Responsibility which consists of 4 pillars, responsible supply chain, sustainable product, sustainable operations and community involvement. The efficiency of these pillars is monitored and supported by MADE-BY an organization that helps brands implement strategies to improve environmental and social conditions in the apparel industry.
[37]
Address:
Saitex Amata 1 Lot 226/8, Road 2 Amata Industrial Zone Bien Hoa Dong Nai, Vietnam
Each supplier G-Star RAW works with is required to adhere to a Code of Conduct which is monitored by an internal team and independent audits. Each product offers information about the factory it was made in, from the exact address to the number of workers. In the Code of Conduct G-Star RAW specifies that suppliers must offer the minimum wage of the local government or the prevailing industry wage. The wage must be a living wage meaning it must be able to cover healthcare, housing, education and some discretionary income without working more than 48 hours a week. G-Star RAW works with a number of NGOs, trade unions and local governments to establish the best solution for fair wages in their supply chain.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
levistrauss.com
G-Star RAW does not use any chemicals in their production that are harmful to people or the environment and are in the process of reaching a goal of zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in all of their products by 2020. They use over 14 types of sustainable materials, most notably Bionic Yarn in collaboration with Pharrell Williams who is now a co-owner of G-Star RAW.
During their campaign RAW for the Oceans, they created a collection using Bionic Yarn which is produced by recycling plastic that has been collected from the ocean. G-Star RAW also works with the Textile Exchange Membership which works to increase the global market for sustainable fibers.
In 1853 Levi Strauss & Co was founded and in 1873 the blue jean was born when the riveting process was patented. Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s believes their company and products are Made of Progress. They work on multiple fronts to improve their sustainability. Whether its their Water<Less or Waster<Less collections or their Workerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Well Being Program.
[38]
kowtow
[39]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
kowtowclothing.com kowtowclothing kowtowclothing kowtowclothing kowtowclothing
$$$ 17-228
[
]
100% certified fair trade organic cotton clothing.
[40]
In 2006, Kowtow was created by Gosia Piatek in the heart of New Zealand. Kowtow prides themselves on their 100% certified fair trade products and their deep respect for the garment making process which is reflected in the brands name. Kowtow is derived from a Chinese custom which means to “kneel and touch the ground with the forehead in worship or submission”. Kowtows organic cotton is certified Fair trade labeling Organization which guarantees workers’ rights like co-operatives to benefit the community, local businesses and agricultural training as well as guaranteed minimum wage.
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The Kowtow producers work democratically and always respect the rights of farmers and workers. Overall the use of fairtrade production encourages protection of the environment and its workers.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
Kowtow works intimately with their fair trade certified cotton growers and factory in Kolkata, India which they visit about every 6 months. The workers at this facility receive a number of benefits, on top of earning a living wage including employee social security and pension funds. Employees have the ability to join work unions; and all employee children receive free schooling. They also receive house rent, holiday leave, sick pay, medical insurance and overtime pay. Workers are not subject to work with dangerous chemicals because all the dyes used in Kowtow products use the Global Organic Textiles Standard approved dyes. Employees also work in a well-lit, ventilated spacious workspace.
Be sure to check out their Seed to Garment video on their website. A team from Kowtow went through each step of the supply chain and documented the process of creating a garment, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye opening to see how intense the process can be and also the tasks that workers complete. It makes you wonder how significantly different they daily lives of those that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t created organic cotton and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have access to fair trade regulations must be.
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stella mccartney
[43]
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
stellamccartney.com stellamccartney stella mccartney stellamccartney1 stellamccartney
$$$ 26-5295
[ ] We are a vegetarian company committed to operating a responsible, honest, and modern business.
[44]
Stella McCartney is one of the few sustainable luxury options available if you’ve got the budget. After working as creative director for Chloe, Stella McCartney started designing her own collections in 2001 after creating a joint venture with Kering Group. Kering is the parent company for brands like Saint Laurent and Puma. They’ve got a reputation for being ahead of the curve in terms of sustainability; offering a yearly environmental profit and loss statement that “makes the invisible impacts of business visible, quantifiable and comparable.”
[45]
Stella McCartney as a person and a brand is committed to not only fashion, but also social awareness concerning people and the environment. In 2014 she launched the London Stella McCartney Green Carpet Collection, a collection of sustainable eveningwear. She collaborated with Jaguar for the launch of their most fuel efficient car. Stella McCartney also created an exclusive lingerie collection for Breast Cancer Awareness month and created designs to raise awareness about the International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women.
[kohnshuhs: apparel]
Stella McCartney considers sustainability at every step of the supply chain. At the stores and corporate offices they use renewable energy whenever possible and even have a LEED certified store in Dallas, Texas. Every location has access to the Green Guidebook that provides information on how to save energy create less waste etc. Stella McCartney is also a member of Ethical Trading Initiative, a group that aims to improve working conditions around the world. Currently Stella McCartney creates all ready-to-wear, bags and shoes in Europe and source and manufacture in Italy. They also work with organizations like United Nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Trade Center Ethical Fashion Initiative, to create mutually beneficial partnerships with fashion brands and marginalized people.
Stella McCartney is the currently the only vegetarian luxury brand available. They do not use leather, skins, feathers or fur for any products. This philosophy is based off not only the welfare of the animals but also the significant environmental impact of the meat and leather industry as well as the harmful chemicals used to create these products. Stella McCartney also does not use PVC or polyvinyl chloride the most commonly used plastic, in any of their products since 2010. Stella McCartney in known for their textile innovation because of the limitations they place on themselves, without sacrificing style.
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[accessories]
[47]
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
Accessories are one of the best ways to reflect your style, especially if your apparel selection is pretty minimal. But when it comes to sustainable accessories there are a number of controversial elements to consider. Leather and plastic are a major concern, as well as diamonds and other precious stones. This section includes 6 options for your sustainable jewelry, shoe and bag needs. These options are some of the most durable solutions available and guarantee youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get the most bang for your buck.
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freedom of animals
[49]
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
freedomofanimals.com freedomofanimals foa_bags
$$$ 25-380
[
]
Sustainable, ethical, U.S. made bag line and a voice for animals
[50]
Freedom of Animals was created in 2013 by Morgan Boyle in New Yok City. She had been a stylist for 10 years and hated working with leathers and furs. At the same time she began traveling the world, volunteering at animal shelters. She decided to combine her two interests to create a sophisticated sustainable accessory option.
[51]
Freedom of Animals accessories are all PETA approved vegan, meaning they do not use any byproduct that comes from an animal that includes chemicals in glue and dyes. All of their materials are comprised of post-consumer polyurethane and recycled plastic that is gathered from the ocean and landfills, as well as organic cotton. Polyurethane is significantly more sustainable compared to other synthetic fibers as it takes 70% less energy to produce and contains 99% less harmful chemicals. The hardware on Freedom of Animals accessories are recycled from a luxury Italian zipper mill.
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
The dyes they use to are vegetable based dyes that have also been recycled. The process to create these materials follows strict guidelines set out by the Environmental Protection Agency. The EPAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main goal is to protect human health and the environment through research, regulations and implementation techniques. Freedom of Animals partners with the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Kenya and aim to donate a percentage of each sale to their organization. The Sheldrick Foundation is dedicated to protecting and preserving Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wilderness, especially endangered species like the Black Rhino and elephants. Most bags created by Freedom of Animals are name after orphaned elephants whose mothers were killed by poachers.
While the brand is passionate about the protection of animals, they consider ethical treatment of their workers just as important. Freedom of Animals manufactures their products exclusively in the United States at green facilities that use ecofriendly production processes whenever possible.
[52]
coclico
[53]
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
coclico.com coclicony coclicony coclicony
$$$ 295-495
[
A shoe is a story disguised as an object.
] [54]
Coclico is headquartered in New York City and was founded in 2000 by Sandra Canselier. Sandra is a 4th generation shoe maker whose father, grandfather and great-grandfather all made shoes in the French province of Pays de la Loire. The name Coclico derives from the coquelicot wildflower that is common to that area.
[55]
The heritage of Coclico is only enhanced by their commitment to environmental and ethical integrity. In fact, in 2013 Coclico was honored for their dedication to sustainable fashion with the SOURCE Award. SOURCE is a platform that makes it easier for the fashion and textiles industries to work sustainably and facilitate research and industry collaboration.
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
Leather
All Coclico shoes are created in the Sandra Caselierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s family owned factory in Mallorca, Spain. Coclico sources their leathers from small scale tanneries local to the Mallorca area. This factory is certified and audited through a thirdparty source that verifies the integrity of production. The leather used in each shoe is nickel-free, lead-free and tanned with vegetable dyes. The soles of each shoe use FSC-certified cork, which means the cork suppliers are committed to the protection of wildlife, long-term economic viability and the rights of indigenous people where the cork is harvested.
At the Mallorca factory, Sandra knows the workers by first name. The establishment is committed to transparent production and ensures environmental reliability and that the craftspeople are provided living wages..
Leather is a tricky and almost always, controversial topic. While there has been a lot of innovation in the development of vegan leather solutions, most of the options are not durable enough to be used for shoes. If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t avoid leather, there some solutions. Companies that use surplus leather help to reduce production waste. Vintage leather is another option as it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require any new demand. Buying from a small artisinal brand that can source their leather properly is another great option.
[56]
melissa joy manning
[57]
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
melissajoymanning.com melissajoymanning mjmjewelry mjmjewelry
$$$ 25-16,075
[
]
I create jewelry to create change.
[58]
Melissa Joy Manningâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jewelry business has supported a socially and environmentally responsible ethos since the very beginning when it began in 1997. Melissa Joy Manning has flagship stores in Berkley California and New York City and the designs can be found in over 300 other locations worldwide. In 2012 Melissa Joy Manning won the CFDA Lexus Eco Fashion Challenge which set out to reward designers for their commitment to sustainable practices. Melissa is now a co-chair of the CFDA Sustainability Committee, through mentorships, education and collaboration the committee supports sustainability in the fashion industry.
[59]
Melissa Joy Manning jewelry focuses their sustainability success in four areas, local and handmade products, green certified, recycled and upcycled materials and ethical sourcing. Each piece of jewelry made for Melissa Joy manning is created in the United States, either in their California or New York studios using traditional metal-smithing techniques. These techniques eliminate the pollution and chemical waste produces by traditional highvolume processes. Skilled artisans are used to craft each piece. They receive a fair living wage as well as a benefit and retirement package.
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
Every piece created in the California studio is Green Certified by the state of California; the Green Business Program provides information and certification to help companies become more environmentally responsible. While the New York studio is not certified, they follow the same strict guidelines that the California studio adheres to. Melissa Joy Manning also upcycles precious stones whenever possible. When purchasing diamonds internationally Melissa Joy Manning prefers to work directly with mine owners to ensure their ecological and social standards are upheld. Every diamond is certified conflict free through the Kimberley Process. The Kimberly Process is a joint initiative by governments and the industry to eradicate the business of conflict diamonds, also known as blood diamonds, which are uncut diamonds that rebel movements use to finance wars efforts.
Melissa Joy Manning shows great pride in the sustainability of their materials. More than 50% of the materials used are derived from domestic sources. The company uses recycled sterling silver and gold from a Green Certified refinery as well as Leland Slag, a byproduct of ore refining and raspberry nickel which is left over from closed down zipper factories around the US.
[60]
matt & nat
[61]
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
mattandnat.com matt_and_nat mattandnat matt_and_nat
$$$ 40-225
[
Live beautifully.
]
[62]
The idea behind Matt and Nat or MAT(t)erial and NATure began in 1995 in Montreal, Quebec by the founder Inder Bedi. This accessories brand is passionate about social responsibility, integrity, learning and love for both people and the environment. Matt and Nat focus their progress on material and process innovations that allow them to be more sustainable. They are a vegan company meaning they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use any animal products in their production. Being vegan means Matt and Nat uses alternative materials like recycled nylon, cardboard, rubber and cork. They also use recycled plastic for the linings of the bags and have begun introducing recycle bike tires to their collections as well.
[63]
Matt and Nat believes in building strong relationships with their small Chinese factories. One of their manufacturers operates under the SA8000 standard and they plan to make that standard a bigger part of production process as they grow. The SA8000 is created by Social Accountability International group, which works to enhance the rights of workers around the world. The SA8000 is a social standard that third-party auditors follow while inspecting facilities to ensure quality social performance.
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
PVC
Matt & Nat is also passionate about giving back. They have a limited edition product called the Hope Charity Bag whose proceeds go to one of five charities. Each of these charities promotes environmental wellbeing, humanity or animal welfare and were chosen because they best represent Matt & Natâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s values.
These organizations include, Magic Bus which improves the lives of impoverished children in India, Girls Action Foundation which tackles issues facing girls and women like poverty, racism, violence and gender inequality, The Ocean Cleanup that uses technology to prevent and intercept plastic pollution in the ocean, Sunrise Sanctuary a rescue center for abused, neglected and disabled animals, and Fauna Foundation which is also an animal rescue center with a focus on chimpanzees that have been used for animal testing. So far Matt & Nat has raised nearly $70,000 with the Hope Charity Bag.
Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be lead astray by brands claiming to use vegan leather, but really using PVC to create their materials. PVC also known as, Polyvinyl Chloride is in the most simplistic terms, plastic. PVC is chlorine and carbon heavy and is extremely resistant to degradation. Instead look for vegan leather that contains cotton, hemp, linen, cork, canvas, or recycled rubber. There are even options that used recycled PVC or other types of plastics.
[64]
veja
[65]
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
veja-store.com veja veja v_e_j_a
$$$ 82-220
[
A vision that proposes cultural change
]
[66]
Veja is an ecological and fair trade footwear and accessories brand that was created in France by SĂŠbastien Kopp and Ghislain Morillion in 2004. Vejaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision is to inspire cultural change through action and transparency by combining economic, social and environmental efforts. While design and logistics takes place in France, all the raw material production and manufacturing of shoes occurs in South America, mainly Brazil and through the amazon. Veja does not advertise to save resources that could otherwise be used to pay decent wages to employees. Veja also does not carry any stock. They only produce exactly what is purchased by retailers so hat production can adapt to the availability of materials like organic cotton.
[67]
While Veja does own Fair trade and organic cotton certifications, they believe these certifications are the minimum that they can do, they believe having certifications is the first step and that they must evolve beyond them. Veja gained Fair trade certification in 2009. The certification covers all aspects from seed to the people working at the Paris headquarters.
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
Veja goes beyond the core Labor Standards to cover aspects like freedom to rather and discuss their rights, quality and proximity to their homes, purchasing power and social benefits for their workers. The workers make about 35 dollars more a month than the Brazilian minimum wage and also receive overtime. The also do not work on bank holidays and receive 4 weeks paid vacation yearly. As far as the factories themselves, two social audits have been conducted as part of the Fair trade certification process in 2008 and 2009. The cotton producers that Veja works with gained organic certification in 2007, and 97% of their producers carry that certification. Veja not only considers the impact of the cotton they use, they are also interested in agroecology which is the study of ecologies impact on the management of agricultural systems. Besides organic cotton, Veja also uses rubber and leather in their shoes. In most cases rubber products are made synthetically using a petroleum base, but Veja shoes use natural rubber which only grows in the Amazonian rain forest. The rubber is harvested from the trees by tappers in a similar process as tapping for syrup.
While Veja offers a lot of information about cotton and rubber they admit that working with leather producers is completely different and canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t function under the same standards. Their leather production is a main area for growth and they would like to have more control over the entire leather supply chain.
Veja acknowledges that they have limitations and are a continued work in progress. They are transparent concerning a number of things for example; shoe laces are a small production process so they arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t made with organic cotton, for comfort and resistance issues insoles require use of synthetic rubber and they do not know the origin of their metal eyelets.
[68]
fernweh
[69]
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
fernwehjewelry.com fernwehjewelry fernwehjewelry
$$$ 85-450
[
Global inspired jewelry.
]
[70]
Combining their love for travel and learning about different cultures with their enthusiasm for fashion, Rachel Widmark and Amelia Tonelli founded Fernweh Jewelry in 2015. Fernweh has a mission to bring light to the rich cultures and histories of developing nations through hand-crafted jewelry.
[71]
Fernwah is deeply committed to investing in the artisans and cultures they gather inspiration from. Through En Via Microfinance a non-profit organization, 2.5% of each sale is given back to the people that are represented in the collections. These microloans serve as an opportunity to promote entrepreneurship and independence to people, specifically women, in these developing nations. These loans are interest free and create economic growth, build strong communities and empower women and their families.
[kohnshuhs: accessories]
Blood Diamonds
Fernweh works with local artisans to preserve traditional techniques in both weaving and ceramics. The woven material used in the bracelets and necklaces is created by Mireya Hernandez in Teotitlan, Oaxaca, Mexico. She uses high quality wools and cottons that she hand dyes herself. Mireya is part of the En Via Microfinance program, with her microloans Mireya has been able to invest in higher quality machinery which allows her to take larger orders.
Ceramics are a common element of art and functions in nearly all cultures, so Fernweh adds elements of ceramics in each collection. Fernwehâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ceramic pieces are hand crafted and hand painted at Uriarte Talavera in Puebla, Mexico. Talavera is the oldest form of pottery in Mexico and is created using the same processes that were developed in the 16th century. Local Puebloan artisans created the Talavera ceramics with the skills that have been passed down through generations.
Diamonds and other precious stones can be another source of controversy. Not only does diamond mining have a major impact on the environment through land disturbance, but an even greater impact on local people. Blood diamonds refers to when an rebel armies sell diamonds to fund wars against legitimate governments. The trading of these diamonds results in devastating violence and the exploitation of workers and the environment.
[72]
[beauty]
[73]
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
Many people are concerned with what they put into their body in terms of food, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t consider the ingredients and chemicals found in their beauty products which can have just as much impact. Not only do chemicals have an impact on the consumer that use them they also affect the environment in the manufacturing process of creating them and animal welfare but also the people that create these products that are exposed to the ingredients in much larger doses. This section offers 5 beauty brands that make ingredient transparency a top priority.
[74]
juice beauty
[75]
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
juicebeauty.com juicebeauty juicebeauty juicebeauty juicebeauty
$$$ 4-80
[
]
Authentically organic formulas.
[76]
Juice Beauty was founded by wellness entrepreneur Karen Behnke in 2005. The Juice Beauty team based in California worked with PHD chemists, physicians, and microbiologists to create hair care skincare and make up products that perform as well or even better than conventional options that are far less healthy for your skin. The product formulas use vitaminrich organic botanical juices and powerful skin care ingredients rather than petroleum based ingredients. Many of the organic ingredients used in Juice Beauty products are sourced locally from West Coast USDA certified organic farmers and are exclusively manufactured in the U.S. Juice Beauty is driven by their eco values which begin with their authentically organic formulas.
[77]
Skin can absorb up to 60% of what is placed on it, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to choose products that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t contain ingredients that can be harmful like parabens, petroleum, pesticides, sulfates, GMO, silicones, artificial dyes, or synthetic fragrances. Most beauty products start with a base of petroleum glycols or plain water; Juice Beauty uses aloe, soothing and hydrating, jojoba, rich in antioxidants, grape seed, a great skin protectant and shea, a deep moisturizer as bases. .
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
Other ingredients they use include lemon, apple juice, acai berry, rose hip fruit, passion flower, fruit stem cells, pineapple enzymes, pomegranate, carrot root, raw cane sugar, algae and many more. According to The Organic Center a nonprofit research organization that provides information about organic food and farming, stated that organically produced fruits and vegetables contain 30% more antioxidant levels than produce grown with pesticides. This means Juice Beauty products have the potential to be even more effective protecting healthy skin. They also follow USDA regulations. Products that contain a U.S. Department of Agriculture organic tag must contain at least 95% organic content excluding water. Juice Beauty is also certified Gluten free through the GFCO, certified cruelty free by both PETA and the Corporate Standard of Compassion for Animals group, EcoCert certified in Europe, Natural Ingredient certified and certified organic by the Soil Association Organic Standard in the UK.
Another one of Juice Beauty’s eco values is powerful action without; without the use of harmful chemicals as previously mentioned. To do this, Juice Beauty meets some of the most rigorous product farming standards available including COPA, the California Organic Products act which requires products labeled with “organic” to contain at least 70% organic content, excluding water.
[78]
beauty counter
[79]
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
beautycounter.com beautycounter beautycounter beautycounter beautycounterhq
$$$ 10-525
[
]
Our mission is to get safe products into the hands of everyone
[80]
Beauty Counter was founded based on the fact 1 in 2 men and 1 in 3 women in the united States will be diagnosed with cancer; and that companies are allowed to use toxins that have been linked to cancer in their products without disclosing that information. So in 2013, Gregg Renfrew launched Beauty Counter â&#x20AC;&#x153;to get safe products in the hands of everyone.â&#x20AC;? In the European Union they have restricted or banned 1,300 ingredients while the US has only banned 11. At Beauty Counter they have banned more than 1,500 ingredients, which they disclose in the Never List, to help consumers recognize what to stay away from.
[81]
The ingredients that they do use are tested rigorously for safety. They consult a number of different organizations, governments and scientists to ensure the ingredients they use are no cancer causing, toxic or promote infertility. Beauty Counter reviews data regularly in case any new scientific information develops that would require them to discontinue the use of an ingredient. 80% of their ingredients are either organic, natural or plant derived, the other 20% is synthetic, but you can be sure itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s safe.
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
Lead & Heavy Metals
Beauty counter obtains ingredients from sustainable non GMO locations with priority for U.S. based sources. Beauty Counter also does not test any products on animals. You can find a complete list of the ingredients used their source, key properties and which Beauty Counter Products they are found in on the website, each individual product as well as the EWGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Skin Deep Database.
Not only are they partnered with the Environmental Working Group, Beauty Counter has a number of other associations and certifications. This includes being a B corp company which has been discussed in the apparel chapter. B corp companies are required to consider people, and the planet before profits.
Lead and other heavy metals i.e. Lead acetate, chromium, thimerosal, hydrogenated cotton seed oil and sodium hexametaphosphate. These heavy metals are banned in Canada, Europe and Japan but only restricted in the U.S. They are linked to cancer, organ toxicity and other environmental concerns. You can find these elements in lip products, teeth whitening products and pretty much every cosmetic product.
[82]
mychelle
[83]
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
mychelle.com mychellebeauty mychellebeauty mychelleskincare mychelle
$$$ 12-60
[
]
Clean science. Professional results.
[84]
Myra Michelle Eby founded Mychelle Dermaceuticals in 2000 in Colorado. Mychelle was founded by the concept that science and nature can be harnessed to create safe, natural and effective products. Mychelle is the first to use anti-aging peptides and plant stems cells combined with all natural ingredients to create bioactive skin care products. Mychelle uses a 360-degree approach that ensures their products are clean, conscious and comprehensive.
[85]
All Mychelle products are Vegetarian, PETA Certified Cruelty-free, and free of phthalates, parabens, sulfates, ureas, artificial fragrances and colors, petroleum, GMOs, and gluten. Although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not required by the government, Mychelle is committed to being 100% transparent when it comes to manufacturing ingredients. They provide the name, source and benefit of each ingredient they use from A-Z. For example, Zingiber Officinale root oil comes from ginger plants which is an antibacterial and antifungal chemical used to purify the blood and lymphatic fluids used in products to heal acne.
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
Many beauty brands including Mychelle use very scientific names, but with their list of ingredients it’s easy to understand what each product does. They also provide a list of harmful chemicals other brands use to help their customers avoid unsafe products. Other innovative ingredients Mychelle uses are plant stem cells that come from fruits and vegetables like apples, pumpkins, red grapes and lilac leafs. Plant stem cells can be used to protect cell longevity and delay biological aging.
To assist in their 100% transparency objectives Mychelle cofounded EWG VERIFIED: For Your Health™ Program. The Environmental Working Group aims to empower people to lead healthier lives through research and education. EWG verified products must go above and beyond just listing ingredients. Companies repping the EWG verification seal must offer full disclosure to their customers as well as, make sure their products are free of contaminants, can be properly preserved, and that the manufacturing processes meet EWG’s high standards. Currently 15 of Mychelle’s products have been EWG certified.
[86]
rms
[87]
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
rmsbeauty.com rmsbeauty rmsbeauty rmsbeauty
$$$ 15-120
[
]
An organic and pure color cosmetic line.
[88]
Rose Marie Swift is a celebrity make-up artist that has worked with the likes of Louis Vuitton, Celine Dion, Marie Claire magazine and Hedi Slimane just to name a few. She founded RMS beauty in 2008 after becoming extremely ill with heavy metal poisoning. Doctors found aluminum, barium, cadmium, lead and mercury as well as high levels of pesticides and other chemicals in her blood stream and linked it to her high exposure to those chemicals found in cosmetics. Once regaining her health she launched RMS to help other women create a healthy beauty regiment that didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t include harmful toxins.
[89]
RMS Beauty products go beyond just using organic ingredients; they also focus on healing and nourishing the skin. Their products consist of raw food grade organic ingredients. They make sure to use minimal heat when manufacturing their goods to maintain the nutrient properties of their ingredients. None of the RMS Beauty products contain harmful chemicals, synthetic vitamins, preservatives or GMOs.
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
RMS Beauty discloses a complete list of ingredients that include the minerals, oils and extracts used in their products. They fully disclose any information that may be contrary to their values. For example, RMS Beauty discloses that some of their products like Lip Shine in the color Sacred uses synthetic minerals to achieve the desired color, however it only makes up 0.5% of the product composition. They suggest skipping that item and choosing another if you want to avoid any synthetic properties, and that they are continually looking for a solution for the issue.
RMS Beauty clarifies that they are not certified organic by the USDA because the USDA seal does not cover colored cosmetic products. However, most of the ingredients they use are certified organic like their main base, coconut oil. They claim certified organic is a measurement of safety but not quality, because some products labeled USDA organic uses refined, bleached and deodorized ingredients which can be harmful. RMS Beauty is waiting for a certifying agent that focuses on colored cosmetics with strict standards that align with their values before they apply for any type of certification.
[90]
le vert
[91]
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
levertbeauty.com levertbeauty levertbeauty levertbeauty levertbeauty
$$$ 5-225
[
Beauty evolved.
] [92]
Ana Congdon founded Le Vert Beauty or The Green Beauty in English, in San Francisco. Ana worked in marketing as a copywriter for the beauty and lifestyle segment of a west coast publication agency. Although she researched and wrote about beauty all the time she didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t realize the negative impact it could have on the body until she became pregnant and suddenly all of her products were not recommended for use while growing a child. So she Founded La Vert as a curation location to do all the dirty work of finding the best, most luxurious eco and ethical beauty brands available.
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Le Vert Beauty works with over 30 brands that are not only forward thinking and green minded, but also create goods with superior quality that only lack in harmful chemicals and toxins. Some of these brands include Kjaer Weis a certified organic makeup company created in Denmark, Strange Invisible Perfumes a botanical perfumery that uses certified organic plants, woods and resins to create their scents.
[kohnshuhs: beauty]
What is Toluene?
Also Box Naturals a cleansing towelette brand that can be used as a makeup remover, feminine wipe or even to wipe down a yoga mat that uses light organic oils for scent. You can search products only based on different categories and skin type but also whether it was made in the U.S., vegan, gluten free or doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use animal testing.
Le Vert Beauty is also committed to giving back. A portion of each purchase made on the Le Vert site is donated to Charity Water Org. This organization provides safe drinking water for people in developing countries. More than 4.6 million people have benefited from their endeavors since 2006. .
Toulene is a toxic chemical used in products like nail polish and hair dye. In nail polish itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s used to create a smooth color finish and make the color last. It is derived from the tolu tree and also found in crude oil. Toulene is component that is also added to gasoline. Exposure to Toulene can cause headaches, dizziness and cracked skin. Toulene is banned in Europe but is allowed in the U.S.
[94]
[get involved]
[95]
There are a number of ways to shop sustainably and some key phrases that can help in the process. Products can be organic, vegan, recycled and vintage. They can be made through free trade certification and support social enterprises, education and charities. Made in America brands also usually have strong ethical standards. Buying used creates no new demand and no new resources have to be procured to create the product you want, so also consider heading to your local thrift store before anywhere else. For larger companies it’s also important to look at the overall Corporate Social Responsibility. Do they have vendor compliance guidelines and perform audits on their factories? These are great questions and terms to look for as you continue to learn about sustainability in the retail industry.
To keep up with the latest developments in sustainability there are some great Instagram and Facebook tags like #slowliving, #slowfashion, conscious, ecofriendly, #sustainable, #sustainablefashion, #ecofashion, #ethicalfashion and many more. Also consider following some blogs like EcoCult. Alden Wicker runs the EcoCult blog and also is a founding member of the Ethical Writers Coalition which is a group of writers and bloggers that promote sustainable and ethical living. If you’d like to learn more about the apparel industries impact on the environment and people check out The True Cost on Netflix, it’s a real eye opener. Also follow Project Just; a new organization that describes the transparency and sustainability of your favorite brands. The Good Guide is another great resource, especially for beauty, food, and cleaning products. Popular products are rated on the Good Guide Scale from 1-10, 10 being the best, based on the impact the product has on health, the environment and society.
[kohnshuhs: involve]
Besides casting your vote for the brands you really believe in with your money, there are other ways to get involved. Consider joining the Fashion Revolution. The Fashion Revolution organization has numerous events the biggest on April 24th of each year in honor of the Rana Plaza collapse. To participate, turn your clothes inside out and show your tags, post a pic on Instagram and hashtag #whomademyclothes, don’t forget to tag the brand of clothes in your post.
[96]
hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to becoming
[kohn-shuh s]
[97]
[kohnshuhs: end]
Melissa Joy Manning says it best “Everyone doesn’t have to be 100% green, because then we get into a problem with people feeling overwhelmed, not authentic, and then they don’t do anything. I think it’s about choosing what’s sustainable in your life.” The process of becoming a more conscious consumer can be overwhelming, but being educated and trying is what really counts at the end of the day.
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