Majuli—Assam’s Shrinking Island With its charming traditions and beautiful landscape, the great river island of Majuli is one of Assam’s loveliest gems. Sarita Santoshini spent a blissful time there
I
stand on a rickety wooden bridge, watching the setting sun turn the river Luit a gorgeous shade of orange. If someone ever mentions the word quaint again, I’ll picture nothing else but this. I am in Majuli, India’s largest inhabited river island. Located in the heart of the mighty Brahmaputra, the calm island yields little clue to its turbulent birth—high frequency earthquakes pounded this region for years, creating 452 square kilometers of what we now know as Majuli. Growing up in Assam, I have often heard of the violent floods that ravage Majuli, and the island’s brave response to them all. Today, it is one third the size it used to be, and fears that it will cease to exist some two decades on are growing increasingly real. For now, I feel content to be standing here. The island is just five hours from my hometown in Dibrugarh, but a whole world apart. The rolling countryside of Assam I am used to, but Majuli is so much more—abundant water bodies, sandy Ghats and picturesque villages that hold on to a history and culture so strong that it is impossible not to fall in love. A ferry transports hundreds of locals, livestock and vehicles a few times a day from Neematighat in Jorhat district. Several ethnic communities dot the island’s 243 villages. Smallmarkets cater to their basic needs and there’s a sprinkling of dhabas where travellers can enjoy parathas and local meat dishes. Electricity is erratic and local transport next to none, but if like me, you seek solace in rustic life, then Majuli is just the place for you. I’ve booked a room at La Maison de Ananda, which aptly translates to “House of Joy.” It is heartwarming to learn that the ecofriendly cottages at the property were set up by a French couple and an Englishman, who developed a lasting bond with this beautiful land. I spend my first evening by Luit Ghat, coaxing a local fisherman to take me on a short tour on his boat. We drift close to some stunning migratory birds—Lesser Adjutant Storks perched atop a mid-river fishing hut and Ruddy Shelducks floating in the distance. Sitting on the edge of that narrow wooden boat, gazing at the lush greenery, it is easy to drift away in time and forget the concrete world miles away. The sunset sojourn is probably the best way to begin acquaintance with the island before losing yourself in the bylanes of its cultural diversity. Majuli is known as the cultural capital of Assam. It is here that 15th century saint Sankardeva, first established a Satra or neo-Vaishnavite monastery. Today, 31 such
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registered Satras lie scattered through the island—serving as both worship centres and treasurehouses of books, art and artefacts about Assamese culture. During my stay, I visit some of these Satras. In Uttar Kamalabari, I meet Tirtha Bhuiyan, a monk who writes for an English daily called Sentinel, and has been learning traditional Assamese dance, music and drama since the age of 12. In Chamaguri, I watch the talented Satradhikari (spiritual head of the monastery) working on clay moulds. Mask making dates back centuries here, and it is fascinating to watch local craftsmen make life-like masks out of bamboo, cow dung and clay. Monks wear them when enacting cultural dramas called Bhaona. I am delighted to learn that my trip coincides with Porag, a post-harvest festival of the Mising, who migrated to the island from Arunachal Pradesh centuries ago, settling around swamps and river banks and building huts on stilts. Thriving on fishing and farming, they now make up almost half the island’s population. Every year, the entire community pools in funds for the festival. Men clad in dhotis and Mibu Galuk (over-coats) and women dressed in sarees and intricately designed Gaseng (self-woven waist cloth) dance to the beat of dhols. Their excitement is almost over-whelming. One local wants me to click a picture of his little girl, another invites me to sample their special pork preparations. Someone ushers me to the area with the most crowd—the apong (rice beer) brewing and drinking corner. I spend my last evening in Majuli cycling through its bylanes, across paddy fields and woods to remote villages, through rickety bamboo bridges; discovering my favourite sunset spots on the way. Prayer chants from the Satras keep me company and loudspeakers echo Porag celebrations. Looking back at my warm stay and hour-long conversations with the locals, I realise that Majuli has been my happiest solo trip so far. Getting There Majuli is 20 kms fom Jorhat town. Buses ply regularly from Jorhat to Neamati Steamer Ghat, the main ferryboarding point for Majuli. The entire journey takes about three hours, involving a half hour bus ride to Neamati Ghat, which has a few tourist information booths, lodging facilities and food stalls. Though Jorhat is the principal entry point, Majuli can be approached through Lakhimpur on the north and Dibrugarh on the east. (Source: Assam Tourism)
THEFOODIE
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