mid-atlantic-koi-magazine-july-2015

Mid~Atlantic Koi The Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

July 2015

Mid~Atlantic Koi The Membership Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club

Volume 29, Number 1 —Upcoming Events

July 2015 Beginner’s Corner - Pond Maintenance .7

Central Chapter Meetings . . . . . . . . .45 Long Island Chapter Pond Tour . . . .45 Saugerties Chapter Meetings . . . . . .45 South Chapter Meetings . . . . . . . . . .45

MAKC Corporate Members . . . . . . . . . .8 Hoshikin Koi Farms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Courtesy of Hikari USA

Koi Anatomy – Part 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Spike Cover , California

—MAKC News President’s Message . . . . . . . .4 From the Editor’s Desk . . . . .6 MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers . . . . . . . .27 Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . .44 F..A..S..T Ads . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Ad Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

Pressurized Filters – Things You Need to Know . . . . . . . . . . .16 Don Harrawood, Texas

Showing Koi – Class 101 . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Linda Montgomery, KHA

How to Care for Water Lilies & Other Aquatic Plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 The Water Garden

Mid-Atlantic Koi Deadlines for Articles, Meeting Announcements and Ads August Issue Deadline: Available Online:

July 1 August 1

September Issue Deadline: August 1 Available Online: September 1

Preparing and Trasnporting Koi to a Show . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Ray Jordan, Texas

Flying Damsels & Dragons . . . . . . . . . .32 Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway

Koi Mental Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Carolyn Weise, Florida

Ryukin Fish Goldfish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 American Goldfish Association

Double Tail Fish – Veiltail Goldfish . .39 Two Beautiful Kohaku at a Koi Show Photo Carolyn Weise

American Goldfish Association

The Deadliest Creature on Earth! . . . .42 In Memoriam - Tom Ayers . . . . . . . . . .43 On the Road to a Koi Event . . . . . . . . . .44 Picture to Share . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 MAKC Membership Application . . . . .49

Page 2 Mid-Atlantic Koi

July 2015

P r e s i d e n t ’s M e s s a g e

by Joann Mead Suggestions4MAKC@gmail.com

Bernie Szer's Pond

would like to thank everyone for the support and I certainly hope that I will be able to fulfill the task at hand to everyone’s expectations.

I

Raffle August 16th Reef Radiance has generously donated a Seneye Pond Monitor and Web Server with WIFI Module to the Club and we are going to raffle the whole system, a $429.00 value!

The raffle tickets are $10.00 each and the drawing will be held on Sunday, August 16, 2015 at the Saugerties Chapter meeting.

First, I hope to increase membership participation in the Mid Atlantic Koi Club (MAKC) meetings, events and committees. I want to reinvigorate our veteran MAKC members and our new members, too! I encourage our members to become active to the best of their ability and time. The MAKC is a membership organization whose successes are a direct result of participation by its members.

Let’s build on MAKC success. We have come a long way, but there is a long way yet to go! Let’s get there together!

Joann

http://reefradiance.com/seneye.html Page 4 Mid-Atlantic Koi

July 2015

MAKC Executive Committee President Joann Mead

(845) 389-5712

jo_mead@earthlink.net

Vice-President Herb Ehrich

(845) 247-7105

koiking15@yahoo.com

Secretary Looking for a Volunteer Treasurer Anthony Vitale

(516) 420-0740

nyssba96@aol.com

Central Chapter Vice-President Bruce Damme (302) 598-8431 Drbdamme@windcrestanimal.com

Remember to Renew Your Membership

Long Island Chapter Vice-President Bruce Levine

(516) 735-2644

bruce@li-koi.com

Saugerties (NY) Chapter Vice-President Herb Ehrich Alan Mickelson

(845) 247-7105

koiking15@yahoo.com

South Chapter Vice-President (301) 332-7042 alanmickelson@msn.com

Standing Committees Richard Douglass

Membership (845) 723-4373

pvsherow@gmail.com

MAKC Sales Looking for a Volunteer MAKC Notice Group Manager Michael Snyder Sarah Johnson

(301) 762-2059 makc@imsnyder.com WebMaster (732) 567-6678 sarranna@yahoo.com

Executive Board Advisor y C ommittee Joe Zuritsky (215) 575-4001 Eric Wilson

jzuritsky@parkwaycorp.com

(443) 203-6486

wilseric@comcast.net

Don’t Wait – Do it Today.

Renewal form you can print out is on page 49.

MAKC Home Page: http://www.makc.com

Production: Cindy Graham, NextUp Creations

Mid-Atlantic Koi is the magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. Material is selected for its interest to Koi keepers.

MAKC accepts no responsibility for accuracy of content. Reproduction of uncopyrighted articles is permitted as long as this magazine is credited as the source.

July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Magazine Editor, Carolyn Weise

(239) 573-6650 x105 makcmag@makc.com

Advertising Editor, Joann Mead

(845) 389-5712

Meeting/Events Editor, Carolyn Weise

(239) 573-6650 x105

FAST Ads Editor, Joann Mead

( 845) 389-5712

jo_mead@earthlink.net

makcmag@makc.co jo_mead@earthlink.net

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 5

From the Editor’s Desk

by Carolyn Weise makcmag@makc.com

s we enjoy the summer months, we bring you Koi show preparation guides (yes, two of them from two of the best Koi guardians I know, Linda Montgomery and Ray Jordan). I hope you will also join us at the Tri-State ZNA in September. Next month we will have a Koi buying guide to help with new purchases for your pond. Also for this month, we have the last part of our Koi Anatomy by Spike Cover. I’ve learned a lot about how Koi function, haven’t you?

A

treasurer and all dedicated volunteers.

Without you, we have no club!

Yours in Koi! Carolyn

In this issue we will cover the Goldfish Standards of Ryukin and Veiltail. Goldfish have become very popular and are taking prizes at Koi shows across America. Here’s what you need to know.

In addition, while enjoying your pond, we have tips on Caring for your Lilies and Other Aquatic Plants and even an article (by yours truly) on Koi Mental Health.

A big thanks to everyone who contributed to this wonderful issue! Thanks to our authors and our Chapter VP’s, our Read about preparing for Koi shows in this issue.

Page 6 Mid-Atlantic Koi

July 2015

Beginners Corner - Pond Maintenance Ask a question and we will get you an answer.

by Don Harrawood, KHA control the formation of single cell algae.

The UV, if used at the proper size, will kill (green water) algae, which will then clump together and can be filtered out. Your pond should not have green water problems as long as the UV is properly sized and maintained. UV light tubes should be replaced yearly.

• Pond owners hate to see green water because it is unsightly and we cannot see the fish, but Koi thrive in green water.

• One of the major causes of fish diseases is lack of pond maintenance. Organic buildup in the bottom of the pond decays and produces hydrogen sulfide, which is very toxic to fish.

• A mechanical pond filter should be cleaned as often as necessary to maintain good water quality.

• Many ponds do not have a mechanical filter.

Absence of a mechanical filter results in high pond maintenance and distress to fish.

A mechanical filter drawing water from a bottom drain is essential to fish health and to pond bottom cleanliness.

• Pond pumps and filters should operate continually except for short down periods for maintenance. Running continually is necessary to keep a good supply of oxygen to the bio-converter bacteria, and to continue removing solids and chemicals from pond water faster than they develop.

• An Ultra Violet (UV) light emits a specific band of wavelength primarily used to July 2015

• Ideally, the higher the stocking density of Koi, the faster the water turn over rate should be. The faster the turn over rate, the faster the impurities will be removed and the more oxygen will be dissolved into the water.

• In general, a pond owner should make a 10% water change weekly. As water evaporates, solids build up in the water and can only be removed through water changes. Don’t forget to use dechlorinator when making water changes.

• When cleaning the bio-converter media, flush it off with pond water. Do not use city tap water since it contains chlorine, which will kill your beneficial bacteria on contact. !

Note: This column offers suggestions only; the ultimate care of your pond and fish is up to you.

Wanted – Your Questions Please email your questions to makcmag@makc.com.

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 7

MAKC

Corporate

Members

Quality Koi Company Nisei Koi Farm 856-299-7564 info@qualitykoi.com

www.qualitykoi.com

www.mazuri.com

Interested in becoming a Corporate Member?

Reasonable one time fee for the year – includes a Business Card size ad in all issues in this section and on the MAKC website.

Contact Joann Mead at 845-389-5712 or jo_mead@earthlink.net

Page 8 Mid-Atlantic Koi

July 2015

A Visit with an Expert Japanese Koi Breeder Hoshikin Koi Farm Courtesy of Hikari USA

Want the best results for your Koi? Follow the advice of a master Koi breeder!

Introducing Hoshikin Koi Farms We have interviewed leading Koi breeders to get a clear understanding of the Koi they grow and how this is accomplished. Enjoy our visit with Hoshikin Koi Farm, now in their third generation of breeding the famous Kohaku variety.

I. About Hoshikin Koi Farm History The farm is located in Ojiya City, Niigata, near Yamakoshi which is the cradle of Koi farming.

They have been in business more than 65 years.

Hoshikin’s the Most Impressive Koi Mr. Katsuyuki Hoshino cited the 31st Tokai District Koi Show's winner as his most impressive Kohaku, with an excellent balance of hi markings forming a sandan-moyo, which is a perfect representative of Hoshikin Kohaku.

The 31st Tokai District Koi Show (2006) Grand Champion, Over 80Bu Kohaku July 2015

Currently the second and third generation farmers, Katsushige Hoshino and Katsuyuki Mr. Katsuyuki Hoshino Hoshino are operating the farm. They breed mainly the Kohaku and Showa varieties on approximately 10 hectares.

The reputation for breeding outstanding Kohaku keeps their name in the mind of Kohaku keepers.

They annually produce a wide variety of Kohaku including: Nidan Kohaku, Sandan Kohaku and Inazuma Kohaku.

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Hoshikin Kohaku gathering for their Saki-Hikari速 feeding. A truly splendid offering of Koi.

Charms of Kohaku Many people choose the Kohaku as their favorite because of the simple combination of red and white patterns. Unlike other Koi, only when the brightness, location of the red (Hi), sharpness of the edges of each pattern and superior look of the white skin are ideal can the Koi be considered a champion-grade Kohaku.

Breeding Objectives of Katsuyuki Hoshino The Hoshikin Koi Farm works diligently to produce would-be Koi show champions. Each year the Koi quality required to be a show winner increases making their job to produce champions much harder.

The young Koi selection process after several culling operations. The number of saleable young fish is usually around 8,000 per variety.

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Since the outbreak of KHV, larger entries are usually placed in an individual pool and July 2015

examined individually instead of by direct comparison. So having a strong impact in their appearance is essential to win in a Koi show.

Making a strong impact in the judge’s eye is essential to be a Koi show winner.

Exporting Hoshikin Nishikigoi Hoshikin’s exports of Nishikigoi has steadily increased with time. Recently, the number of Koi exported to China has rapidly increased opening a new market for their farm.

There are two types of foreign buyers, those who purchase a large number of reasonably priced Koi and those purchasing a small number of high-grade Koi. Tosai and Nisai are always very popular among foreign Koi lovers.

II.The production style of Hoshikin Koi Farm Q: What is your breeding policy?

The criteria for selecting young fish With two-year-old Koi, we focus on markings and pattern and for three-year-olds. Only those with lustrous body are selected. Usually at the age of three, the potential of the Koi is quite apparent using our keen eye and vast experience.

Our secret weapon is how we raise the Koi When our Koi reach three or four years old, we place them in a natural environment (our field pond) for at least two years. During their stay in this pond, they fully experience hibernation during two winter seasons and can grow freely to develop their true and full potential during the warmer weather months. This method is unique to Hoshikin Koi Farm.

Summer body building Feeding Koi the right diet and quantity in August and September is indispensable for desirable growth. We feed Saki-Hikari® Growth Diet to accomplish our growth objectives during this period.

July 2015

We feel Saki-Hikari® is a necessity for rapid growth and the development of first-rate Koi

Stocking field ponds with a small number of Koi We keep only a small number of Koi in each field pond to allow them ample room to build volume. Our Koi parents are also kept in the field ponds.

Taking care to avoid inbreeding When considering Koi parents, we have to avoid mating a couple which are too closely related in their bloodlines. Today's Hoshikin Kohaku lineages are the fruit of crossbreeds.

III. Our idea of the ideal Koi food Q: Which Koi food do you feel is ideal for your farm?

The kind of food We feel the food as an important factor in developing the ideal characteristics of each Koi. We primarily use Saki-Hikari® Basic Diet for the grow out of young fish. On the contrary, we are trying to use a moderate amount of Saki-Hikari® Color Enhancing Diet on the younger Koi, for we have learned that if a Koi is going to develop hi (red color) that usually occurs as it grows older.

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 11

A large Niigata field pond in full blossom.

Our thinking regarding the influences on Koi development Developing award winning Koi is a job that requires many skills. We feel 50% of the eventual outcome depends on the Koi lineage (what the parent fish offer), 20% on breeding skill and environmental factors and as much as 30% relates to what the Koi are fed. Today, many farms have improved their breeding skills and upgraded their facilities using similar methods which means the primary factor that can influence the quality of each farms’ Koi is limited to the nutrition provided the offspring. For us, we spend lots of time to choose the most appropriate food for our purpose. Now almost 100% of Hoshikin’s Nishikigoi are fed Hikari®, helping us to raise the best Koi to offer hobbyists around the world.

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We know nutritional excellence matters and constantly search for that perfect diet For show Koi, one of our primary goals is growing Koi as large and as fast as possible. For this purpose we have found the Hikari® series to be extremely reliable. It has been three years since we changed our primary food choice to SakiHikari®. We have found that our Koi aggressively eat it and that the color enrichment works very well and as advertised. Of course this doesn’t stop us from pushing them for further improvements in order to make our Koi grow much more rapidly. After all, everyone loves a large and beautiful championship Koi, and today I believe Saki-Hikari® is the most reliable diet to help our Koi develop their full potential. !

This is the last of the breeder series presented by Hikari. Thank you Hikari.

July 2015

Koi Anatomy – Part 4

by Spike Cover, California

Kidneys There are two kidneys in a Koi. The caudal kidney is long and narrow, running nearly the length of the body cavity and located just below the spine. The other is the anterior, head or cranial kidney. It is located just above the heart and also contains Thyroid follicles.

Liver The liver is smooth, dark red-brown color and is next to the cranial portion of the intestine. The right lobe of the liver covers the gallbladder and the left lobe encases the spleen.

Swim Bladder This is a two-chambered organ located directly below the kidney that is directly below the spine.

There is a small connection between the two chambers that also connects to the gut. The caudal-most chamber is relatively inflexible but the other chamber has some flexibility.

Gonads The paired gonads are located between the swim bladder and intestines. They can be separate or fused. Testes are white and fissured and ovaries are pink and smooth. The gonadal pore has a separate opening from the waste pores at the anal vent. Gonads enlarge during breeding season to almost 70% of the body weight in females and about 30% in males. Some Koi can have both male and female gonadal tissues. These hemaphrodites have external characteristics between a male and female.

Circulatory System The heart is the pump that moves the blood through the system. It is located low in the fish Page 14 Mid-Atlantic Koi

between the gills. A Koi's heart is a two-chamber organ having a ventricle and an atrium.

Although it has been described as a four-chambered organ, the extra two chambers, before and after the main pumping chambers, are called the sinus venosus and bulbus arteriosus, respectively.

They are smaller than the main pumping chambers, functioning as accumulators (to smooth out any pressure surges and protect the cardiovascular system from overpressure) and, as such, are not equipped for pumping blood. They have no muscled walls but are elastic similar to balloons. The blood pressure of fish is considerably lower than that of mammals.

Blood flows from the heart through the gills and then is distributed to the rest of the body. Blood is collected into veins that eventually return to the sinus venosus just prior to returning to the heart. Fish, unlike mammals, have only one circulatory pattern. Mammals have a systemic circulation and a pulmonary circulation. One of the important veins, the caudal vein, is located ventral (under) the spine. This vein is the most accessible in the fish for obtaining blood samples.

Normally blood flows from an artery to an arteriole to a capillary to a venule into a vein and then back to the heart. A portal system is one in which the blood flows from a vein into a capillary and then back to a vein on its way back to the heart. Fish and mammals have a portal circulation of the liver. That is, blood from the intestines flows into capillaries in the liver before collecting in the hepatic portal vein.

Fish also have a renal portal system. Carp (Koi) have a system that is somewhat modified from July 2015

the norm. In carp the blood returning via the caudal and segmental veins is divided into the renal portal vein and a shunt to the intestinal vein (see diagram). !

Acknowledgements: This section was reviewed and made better by the comments and contributions of Sandra Yosha, D.V.M. Duncan Griffiths Richard E. Carlson July 2015

Bibliography Fish Medicine – Stoskopf, Michael, W.B. Saunders Company, Philadelphia, PA, 1992 Aquariology, Master Volume – Gratzek, John, Tetra Press, Blacksburg, VA, 1992 The Tetra Encyclopedia of Koi – Tetra Press, Blacksburg, VA, 1989 Living Jewels – Watt, Ronnie; de Kock, Servaas – Delta Books, Johannesburg, S.A, 1996.

Koi Carp – Freestyle Publications, Poole, U.K. This is the last of the Koi Anatomy Series. Thank you to Spike Cover for sharing this Koi information.

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 15

Pressurized Filters Things You Need to Know

by Don Harrawood, Texas

Pressurized Filters For this article, a pressurized filter is identified as a filter containing beads, ultima media or other plastic media. These filters are generally spherical shaped and are a pressurized tank where water flows through the media under pressure.

Since the bead media floats and the ultima media sinks, it is obvious to conclude that the flow in these two filters is in opposite directions; therefore, each filter must be used with its own type of media.

Control Valves The control valves for these two filters are basically identical; however, the flow circuits inside the filters are vastly different.

The Aquadyne filter contains tiny plastic beads approximately 1/8� in diameter. These beads float and rise to the top of the filter tank during filtering operation. An air blower is used to stir beads during backwashing.

The Ultima II filter contains Ultima II plastic media that sinks and stay on the bottom of the filter tank during filtering operation.

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July 2015

Gage Sight Glass

• When assembling the filter unions into the control valve, apply teflon tape to the union male threads to obtain a seal. Do not use pipe sealer (which is a lubricant) since this may result in over tightening and cracking the valve at the threaded area. This will negate any warranty of breakage at the threaded area.

• The maximum operating pressures for filter tanks are Ultima II – 38 psi, and Aquadyne – 50 psi. It is not likely the maximum pressure be obtained, except when using a high horsepower pool pump. Filter pressure can be measured by the pressure gage affixed to the side of the control valve,

Valve Settings Filter Backwash Rinse Waste Re-Circulate Closed Winter

For Normal Filtration Reverse Flow Cleans Filter Rinse after Backwash For Draining Pond to Waste By-Pass Filter and Circulates Water to Pond Shuts off Flow from Pump For Draining Filter. Works in Conjunction with Opening the Bottom Drain Valve to Drain Filter. Leave on this Setting Throughout Winter if Filter is not in use.

Things You Should Know About the Operation of these Filters • Make sure when the filter is in “Filter” position that the pointer on the end of the handle is in the notch completely and not on the ridge. If the pointer is not seated inside the notch, water will flow both through the filter to the pond and into the waste line to waste.

July 2015

• Two kinds of pumps are typically used with filters. These are as follows: o Pool pumps – These are high speed, high pressure, high volume and high amperage pumps. Use 1 – 60 psi gage for these pumps. o Pond pumps – These are low speed, low pressure, high volume, and lower amperage pumps. Use 0 – 15 psi gage with this type pump.

• When running the system with a clean filter and a clean prime pot (at the pump), observe the normal operating pressure of the filter gage. This normal gage pressure should be remembered so that system maintenance analysis can be determined by gage pressure change. When the gage shows less than normal, it is a sign of a restriction on the suction side of the system. Look for a bottom drain restriction and a contaminated prime basket. When gage pressure is higher than normal, it is a restriction of the discharge side of the system, and generally is a sign that the filter needs backwashing.

• Filter Restriction: If after backwashing the filter, it appears that the water flow is slow Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 17

again in a couple days, this indicates a clogged filter (also indicated by high pressure reading on the gage). This happens when large amounts of algae is present and the filter is not backwashed often enough, or backwashed thoroughly.

Generally algae have solidified the media and it cannot filter as designed. To correct this problem, the control valve must be removed and the media stirred by hand to break up the clogged media so it is fluid again. After doing this, the filter should be backwashed several times until cloudy water no longer comes out of the filter during backwashing. When the filter is placed back into service, it should be backwashed daily for a week. (Note: When doing this procedure on the Ultima II filter, do not let media go into the center pipe), this will clog up the emitters in the bottom of the filter tank. The alternative to this procedure is to replace the media with new.

New media is very expensive.

• When backwashing the Aquadyne filter, make sure to use the blower to stir the beads, and after backwashing, open the flush valve for a few seconds to dump the settled debris in the filter bottom.

• Eventually the control valve lever will get difficult to operate. To improve its functionality, turn the pump off and flush the center shaft area with water or air to remove dirt and debris. After the area is dry, spray it with WD-40 or silicone spray and work the lever up and down, around and around, until it moves freely. To prevent sticking in the future, cover the top of the control valve with a plastic shower cap or some sort of a cover to keep windblown dust and sand from contaminating the area. Note: Control valves are generally repairable if broken or worn badly.

Page 18 Mid-Atlantic Koi

• During the winter season, continue to run your pump and filter 24/7. If this is not possible because of weather or other reasons, then the filter should be winterized by draining the water. Don’t forget to drain the pump and the UV light to keep them from freeze damage.

Ultima II Filter Backwash Instructions Caution: Do not turn control lever to or through the “Closed” position with pump running.

1. Turn pump off 2. Turn control lever to “Backwash” position.

Turn pump on and backwash until water in the sight glass is clear.

3. Turn pump off 4. Turn control lever to “Rinse” position.

Turn pump on and rinse until water in the sight glass is clear.

5. Turn pump off.

6. Return control lever to “Filter” position.

Turn pump on. You’re done!!!!

Use de-chlorinator to eliminate chlorine in City water that is added after backwashing.

Note: Change U.V. lamps every 12 months.

Aquadyne Filter Backwash Instructions The filter should be backwashed whenever the Discharge volume is noticibly reduced.

Caution: do not position filter control valve to closed position while pump is running. This may damage the control valve July 2015

Backwash Procedure 1. Turn pump electrical power off.

9. After 1 minute, open the bottom sludge valve and drain for about 10 seconds.

2. Place filter control valve to rinse position.

Turn blower power on then open blower valve.

Allow blower to stir beads for 4 - 5 minutes.

Caution: open bottom sludge valve only when Unit is running in filter position or filter beads Will be lost.

3. Close blower valve and turn blower off.

Caution: do not run the air blower for long periods with the blower valve turned off. This blocks air flow and may cause damage to the blower. !

4. Position control valve from rinse to backwash.Turn pump on and run until sight glass is clear.

5. Turn pump off.

6. Position control valve to rinse. Turn pump on and run until sight glass is clear.

7. Turn pump off 8. Turn control valve to filter position. Turn pump on.

July 2015

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July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 21

Showing Koi – Class 101

by Linda Montgomery, KHA

H

tank pollution. Remember that it is impossible to feed only some Koi in your pond and not others, (unless you have separate ponds), so you will have to suspend feeding to all Koi in your pond.

1. You will need to equalize your water temperature with the tanks at the show. If your pond or tank is heated, this should be done gradually. So unplug those heaters at least one week before the show date.

3. Make sure you have enough plastic bags, rubber bands and Koi boxes to accommodate all the Koi you plan to take. Get these in advance – you don’t want to be running around on the day of the show trying to find bags. To minimize the risk to your Koi, it is recommended that you DO NOT PUT MORE THAN THREE KOI IN A BAG REGARDLESS OF THEIR SIZE! The maximum packing rate to generally use as a rule of thumb is one inch of Koi per inch of bag. It is always advisable to add oxygen to the bag if you are fortunate enough to have it available.

ere are some very simple and common sense steps to make your show experience safe for your Koi and a lot less stressful for you…

2. Suspend feeding at least 3 days before the show! The last full day’s feeding should be the prior Monday before the show. The next day (Tuesday) you can give them a light feeding (50%), and then suspend feeding until after the show. The reason for this is to minimize the show Page 22 Mid-Atlantic Koi

July 2015

4. When netting and bagging your fish on the day of the show be sure to leave yourself plenty of time and don’t rush (plan on at least 10 minutes per Koi). When bagging the Koi you should have at least enough water in the bag to cover the gills of the Koi. If using oxygen when bagging the Koi, it is much better to use just enough water to cover the gills, so that you have as much space as possible for the oxygen (this is healthier for the Koi and also much easier on our old backs!). This is especially important if transporting more than 45 minutes from the show site. If you can, you should double bag for the safety of the Koi and ease of mind. When you double bag, if the inside bag has a hole the second bag will help to keep the Koi in water until you get to the show.

5. Health Check - If you have any concerns or doubts about the health of your Koi, please leave them at home! The very last thing a Koi, that isn’t 100%, needs is a trip to a Koi show. It simply is not worth the risk. If the benching team notices any health problems on the Koi, you will be asked to take the Koi back home, which isn’t the best situation for the Koi and certainly not the most convenient for the owner.

8. After the show, take care of your Koi and don’t rush! This will be especially important because everyone is tired and will be anxious to get home.

The fish entry team will need to verify and check out your fish before leaving so please be patient.

When introducing your fish back to their home from the transport bags, never add the transport water into the pond (it is truly disgusting stuff, even as good as Mike is at water quality…he is not a miracle worker!).

After bringing your fish home it is recommended that you add salt to your quarantine tank at a rate of 2.5 pounds per 100 gallons (a 0.3% solution). The salt to be used should be noniodized salt, fit for human consumption (no additives).

A show is extremely stressful on your fish so please watch them closely after returning them to their home. It is also recommended that you don’t feed them the first day, then gradually resume normal feeding. !

And the Winner Is 6. When transporting your Koi always pack them in covered boxes, (this helps to keep them calm) and always make sure the boxes are horizontally perpendicular to the direction of the motion of your car. Large Koi, with their noses pointed the same direction you are moving in, can end up with bruised noses if you were to slam on the brakes in traffic situations.

7. At the show, immediately seek out the benching team and get your Koi floating in a tank. After releasing your Koi, make sure that you keep all of your plastic bags, rubber bands and boxes, as you will need them later for the trip home. Be sure to bring a Koi net for the handling of your fish at the show or you will be forced to buy one at the show site! You need a net for each tank that you have.

July 2015

The winner of the free MAKC membership is Ben Colobong of NY! Ben submitted a sales receipt from Quality Koi in Carneys Point, NJ! To help support the Corporate Sponsors and vendors who advertise in our monthly magazine we asked members to submit an original sales receipt for products and services for a chance to win a free membership for the upcoming year.

We would like to thank the members who participated in the contest.

Jo Mead MAKC President Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 23

How to Care for Water Lilies & Other Aquatic Plants Provided by The Water Garden

Placing Plants in the Pond

e recommend planting aquatic plants in Fabric Pond Pots or no-hole plastic containers. Use a heavy clay loam (not potting soil) or a packaged soil specific for aquatic plants. Using the wrong type of soil can cause numerous problems. Most aquatics require at least 5 hours of direct sunlight for optimum growth. Do not cover the growing point of water lilies with soil or gravel.

W

of the water lily. As the plant grows, it can be lowered to a depth of 12 inches. Tropical water lilies cannot tolerate cold temperatures and should not be planted until the water temperature reaches at least 70 degrees. Planting too early can cause dormancy and restrict the potential growth of the plant. Tropicals bloom from late spring through early fall, depending on the weather. Fertilizer tablets should be added every 3-4 weeks.

Tropical Water Lilies Day and night blooming- tropical water lilies should be planted in pots at least 10" in diameter (a smaller container will result in a smaller plant). A 10 to 14 inch fabric pot (or 10 x 6 to 12 x 7.3/4 inch plastic pot) should suffice for each lily. Fill the pot 1/2 full with a loam garden soil and add 2-4 fertilizer tablets, then continue to fill the pot to about 2 inches from the top. The tuber should be set upright with the roots buried gently in the soil. Make sure the tip of the tuber is not buried. Next, add an inch or two of pea gravel or sand in order to prevent the soil from escaping from the container. Remember to keep the gravel away from the crown of the tuber. The plant can now be lowered into the water to a depth of approximately 6 inches over the crown Page 24 Mid-Atlantic Koi

July 2015

Hardy Water Lilies Hardy water lilies are planted in much the same way as the tropicals using a loam garden soil and 2-3 fertilizer tablets. Hardy lilies grow horizontally across the container so a wide pot is necessary for planting (a 14 or 16inch fabric pot is the best container). The rhizome should be planted at one edge of the container with the rhizome planted at an angle of about 45 degrees with the crown exposed. Top with an inch or two of pea gravel or sand. The plant can be lowered to a depth of 6 inches to begin with, and then lowered to a depth of 12 - 18 inches as the plant grows. Hardy lilies should be planted in early spring and should be fertilized every 4-6 weeks.

They bloom from June through September depending on the weather, and become dormant during the colder months. As spring approaches, growth will begin again.

lilies can be potted in a three to five gallon container.

Dividing and Repotting Hardy Water Lilies

Begin by removing the soil from the water lily using a water hose to expose the rhizomes. Select the best looking piece with good growth showing and cut to about three inches long, discard the remainder of the plant. Trim away excess roots and any damaged foliage from the selected piece.If the water lily is to remain unpotted for any length of time, keep it in the shade with damp paper towels or newspaper covering the plant.

Hardy water lilies should be divided every two or three years depending on the plant container size. For the average to large size water lily, a five to seven gallon container is ideal. The best container will be shallow and wide. Small water

Prepare the container by filling about three fourths full of aquatic planting soil (clay loam is ideal) and add ten grams of a good fertilizer such as 10-20-10 for every gallon of soil.

July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 25

growth. After this, place the plant at the proper growing depth (12 to 18 inches of water over the top of the plant). Fertilize the water lily every month with the same amount of fertilizer during the growing season.

A porous fabric pot is shown at above, and they come in three sizes Mound some soil against one side of the container and place the rhizome at a 45 degree angle with the cut edge against the pot and the growing point at the level the top of the soil will be. Add more soil to within a couple of inches of the top of the container. Firm the soil in place and add about one inch of pea gravel to cover the soil keeping it from covering the growing point of the plant. Gently add some water to the container and then slowly lower the plant into the pond.

If you place the plant just a few inches under the water for the first few weeks, you will get faster

Lotus Lotus come in several sizes from dwarf types that will grow in a two or three gallon container to the standards which are better off in a twenty to thirty gallon container. Fill the container with the same soil that you would use for a water lily and fertilize with 5 to 10 grams of tablet fertilizer per gallon of soil. Place the tuber with the cut portion against the edge of the potting container.

Place a stone on the tuber to hold it in place and add more soil but do not cover the growing point. Cover only with a couple of inches of water until the plant is growing well and then it can be lowered to several inches of water over the pot.Standard lotus that are planted in too small of a container will not bloom well. After the lotus are well established they can be fertilized every month during the growing season.

The Water Garden sells several types of lotus in our brick and mortar store but do not ship them because there is a large mortality rate. If the growing point is broken during shipping or planting then the plant is likely to die. Water that is too cold when the lotus is potted can also kill the plant.

Page 26 Mid-Atlantic Koi

July 2015

Lotus are hardy and should come back year after year.

Hardy Lily-like Aquatics & Tropical Lily-like Aquatics These plants grow similar to water lilies. They are rooted in a pot several inches under the water but the foliage grows to the surface and floats.

Pot the same way as tropical water lilies except most are much smaller and only need a one gallon pot. Use one fertilizer tablet every 4 - 6 weeks. Lower the container to 6 to 12 inches of water over the top of the pot. Some of these are hardy and will winter over, others are tropical and are treated as tropicals.

Hardy Shallow Water Plants & Tropical Shallow Water Plants Marginal plants should be planted in individual containers of approximately 10 to 14 inch fabric pots (or 10 x 6 to 12 x 7 3/4 inch plastic pots).

The marginal plants which are grown in 2 inch net pots should be planted without removing the net pot so as not to damage the roots. Plant as you would the lilies in a loam garden soil, but when adding fertilizer tablets, use 1 tablet for each gallon of soil. These plants should be fertilized about every 6-8 weeks. Marginal plants should be lowered to a depth of only 2-3 inches.

They grow out of the water and are usually found at the water's edge.

Hardy Floaters & Tropical Floaters These plants require no planting. Simply place them in the water and they will grow. Many floating plants desire tropical temperatures and cannot tolerate a frost.

Underwater Plants All ponds should have underwater plants to aid in maintaining clean and pure water. These plants help prevent algae growth. These plants can be potted in one gallon containers with pea July 2015

gravel to hold them in place or they can be weighted and dropped to the bottom (The Water Garden sells Anacharis). Completely submerge these plants to a depth of at least 12 inches. ! http://www.watergarden.org/Aquatic-Plant-Care

MAKC’s website has been updated. Have you taken a look yet?

www.makc.com

MAKC Health Hotline Volunteers Tom Burton

Middletown, NJ

732-671-7045

Jan & Bill Fogle Wayne, PA

610-687-3105

Terri Janas

Ashburn, VA

703-729-2988

Jeff Nicholson

Odenton, MD

301-912-1928

All members have microscopes and health books. In the event of a recorded message, please suggest a time when you're home to receive a return call or when you'd like to call back.

Please remember that advice is given based on your input–the ultimate responsibility and treatment must remain with you.

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 27

Preparing and Trasnporting Koi to a Show

by Ray Jordan, Texas

Preparing Koi for a Show There are no magic water/food additives you can easily use a few months before a show to greatly enhance the appearance of your Koi for a show.

However there are many additives that will spoil your fish’s appearance. Best preparation is to provide the best possible water quality for an extended period if not all year long.

DO provide highest possible water quality at all times but especially two months before a show: Increase water changes, pond/filter maintenance, and gradually reduce amount fed two months before the show.

Page 28 Mid-Atlantic Koi

DO NOT feed your fish for 5-7 days before a show. It is also beneficial to maintain a lower fish density to improve water quality and allow your Koi to develop to their genetic potential.

There is a lot of misinformation about different Koi foods and water conditioners that can easily improve the color of your Koi and/or their skin condition. Be aware that the only color than can be enhanced by feeding “color” foods is the red color. However the downside of color food is the white skin color can be easily dulled and tinted a yellow or pink color. My advice is to avoid color food, especially for the 2-3 months leading up to a Koi show.

July 2015

Beginning about two months before a Koi show slowly reduce the amount of food given by 50%.

At the same time you should be increasing the amount of water changes and filter cleanings to about twice the usual amount.

Beginning about one month before a show reduce the amount of food given by another 50% and keep increasing frequency and the amount of water changes and filter cleanings. Smaller but more frequent water changes provide for a more stable and higher quality water condition and are usually much better than fewer but larger water changes. Remember to treat your water with an appropriate chlorine or chloramine remover depending on your source water situation.

Also you want to avoid any treatments for parasites, etc. in the few months before a show. These treatments can be harsh on Koi skin and color and it takes a while for your Koi to bounce back from these treatments. If you suspect you might have a disease problem it should be identified and treated as early as possible. Do not rely on hope that all will be fine by doing nothing. It is very easy with today’s improved microscopes to check your Koi 5-6 months before a show if you suspect any problems. Then you can treat the Koi and give them ample time to recover completely before taking them to a show.

Transporting Koi to a Show A proper Koi net is necessary to minimize damage to Koi. It should be shallow and the netting smooth and non-abrasive. The Koi net should be as large as possible (depending on Koi) The goal is to guide the Koi with the net into a tub without touching. Take it slowly and easy. It is easier to catch fish in a pond with corners.

Approach the Koi with the net from the front getting the net under its body and gently guiding it into a tub. Touch the tail or move quickly and the Koi will dart or jump away. Never try to snag a Koi that is trying to escape – let it go and start over.

July 2015

A single experienced person can net/guide Koi into a floating tub but two people make everything much easier. Never lift Koi with the Koi net! Koi nets are made to catch the Koi and hold it in the water until it can be placed in a plastic bag with water. Koi need to float in water to prevent injury. Once the Koi and water are placed in a plastic bag the bag can be lifted with the Koi suspended in water and moved without hurting the Koi. If you have never netted and bagged Koi you would be wise to practice several times prior to show day. If you can, ask someone that is experienced to demonstrate how to catch and bag your Koi a few weeks before the show.

It is easier to net Koi from a smaller pond without obstacles or hiding places. In ponds with potted water plants it might be better to remove or push the plants together in a corner while catching Koi. At times lowering the water level and or wading into a shallow pond will make catching Koi easier. Sometimes a second Koi net handler can help herd Koi into the net of the primary handler. If your pond is too wide or does not lend itself to any of the above methods, a seine net may be used to gently herd the Koi into a more confined area.

One source for custom made seines is Aquatic Ecosystems and they can help you determine size and type. I suggest getting double floats and weights. Koi tubs also need to be properly sized and smooth. Tilt the tub to near vertical position in the pond about half submerged. As the Koi is guided into the tub tilt the tub back to horizontal with enough water to completely cover the Koi but not so much as to encourage it to jump.

Koi sock nets with fine water retaining mesh are the best way to move Koi from the tub into the transport bags. The Koi is brought through the opening of the net head first by carefully advancing the net over the head of the Koi or by manipulating the head of the Koi into the net with your Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 29

free hand. The Koi is positioned in the middle of the net, the end of the net is closed by one hand of the holder, the handle end of the net is folded over to retain the Koi, the hands are spread apart as the Koi is lifted from the water. A head first exit of the Koi from the sock net is preferred to avoid possible fin or scale damage.

Use 3 or 4 mil plastic bags for transporting Koi. Double bag for extra safety. Bag size depends upon the size of the Koi. Large Koi need to be carried with the bag horizontal and held tautly between two handlers to help prevent the Koi from bending too much and hurting themselves.

The opening of the plastic bags should be rolled down to create a smoother edge. Use Koi sock net to move Koi into bag or Koi be scooped directly from a tub into the bag (use one hand to direct the Koi head first into the bag). There should be enough water in the bag to float the Koi as the bag is transported to its destination. There also needs to be enough oxygen for the trip so at least 1/2 of the bag volume should be oxygen and 2/3 bag volume of oxygen is preferred.

Show Transportation Tips Get the proper equipment: You will need a “real Koi net,” Koi sock net, large plastic bags, “new” rubber bands, oxygen tank and regulator. * DO NOT FEED your show fish for 5 days prior. This is very important to reduce ammonia stress on your fish during transportation.

Catch your fish very GENTLY as last thing you do before leaving home.

Transport in cool covered containers (large ice chests are ideal) to maintain constant water temperature and a darkened environment.

Page 30 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Ice packs maybe used inside the container but OUTSIDE the fish bags to keep water cooler and fish more relaxed.

Fish should be “double bagged” with pond water and bags inflated with oxygen and securely closed with double rubber bands inside a cooler.

Be sure bags & coolers are large enough for fish to stay relaxed & unbent. No more Koi per bag/cooler than fit comfortably side by side.

Usually two large Koi 24 in. long, or 5-6 medium Koi 12 inches long.

Be sure to use enough pond water to COMPLETELY cover your fish.

DO NOT put small fish in same bag/cooler with significantly larger fish.

Orient coolers so that fish ride SIDE WAYS to direction of travel.

DO NOT place coolers directly in the sun or near other sources of heat. ( i.e., over hot spot caused by exhaust side of trunk) Reduce time of transportation by driving directly to destination.

When you arrive at destination open bags and gently release water and fish into cooler.

Use a Koi sock net to gently net fish and transfer them into show tank.

Returning Home After a Show Treat your returning Koi as if they may have been stressed or received minor damage or exposed to something at the show or during the transport.

Strongly recommend quarantine for 4 weeks at permissive KHV temps and watch closely for any issues like parasites or minor injury or infection to fins or skin. !

July 2015

July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 31

Flying Damsels & Dragons

by Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway

ach morning, as I go out to feed the animals, I have the pleasure of watching beautiful swarms of dragonflies playing in the yard. From a distance, you see them buzzing around quickly darting back and forth as if they are playing a game of tag, their wings shimmering in the sunlight. It is such a beautiful and peaceful way to start the day.

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I started wondering what am I doing right to attract so many dragonflies to our yard? I know they tend to stay close to water, which we have plenty of, they eat mosquitoes, again, we have plenty of and they enjoy the nectar of native plants. Insects are not my favorite creatures Page 32 Mid-Atlantic Koi

but I have always enjoyed watching dragonflies.

I decided to learn a bit more about these interesting insects.

Dragonflies & damselflies are in the insect order Odonata. There are over 450 species or families of dragonflies in the US alone and 6 here in Florida that are easily identified by their field marks and colors. (http://www.migratorydragonflypartnership.org/index/identificationGuides) Dragonflies are generally larger than damselflies, with large eyes that touch and when at rest their wings are held out from their bodies. They are fast fliers reaching speeds up to 35 mph.

Damselflies are smaller; do not fly as well or as July 2015

long as dragonflies, tending to stay close to the water surface with their wings close to their sides when they are resting.

Reference: http://santarosa.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn_garden/articles %202007/dragons.pdf by Theresa Friday !

Dragonflies have a huge appetite for mosquitoes, flies, aphids, grasshoppers and other pests.

Generally, when you see a swarm of dragonflies they are feasting on pests, which is a plus in my book. The majority of dragonflies have short life spans averaging six months for most species while some of the larger species can live up to five years. Damselflies have a much shorter life span from 2 weeks to four months.

Lisa Burns of Backyard Getaway our website is backyardgetaway.net.

It is interesting that 95 percent of their lives are spent in the water. Like a mosquito, dragonflies lay their larvae in a pond where the larvae feed off tadpoles and insects.

Eventually the larvae crawl onto vegetation such as a lily pad where they transform to adulthood dragonflies.

What do you need to do to attract dragonflies? Simply add water to your garden. It does not have to be a large pond.

A small container water garden or wetland would be enough to attract them. The ideal dragonfly water garden would have different depths with the deepest area in the center for a water lily and submerged plants, rock on the bottom with a bit of sediment, shallower edges to hold native bog plants like bull rushes and grasses.

Do not add fish to your water garden if you want to attract dragonflies. Koi & goldfish will eat the dragonfly larvae. Be sure to include native aquatic and wetland plants as well as native nectar landscape plants.

Light colored rocks, sticks; hollowed logs create perfect perches along the pond edge. When following these tips, you will not only attract dragonflies but also butterflies, frogs, birds and other wildlife to your garden.

July 2015

Find club event/meeting information, pay dues, this magazine and more on our website www.makc.com Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 33

Koi Mental Health

by Carolyn Weise, Florida here are many stressors which affect the health of Koi–all are not physical.

Some are mental, emotional stressors. It is the raccoon raiding the pond, chasing fish from side to side posing a definite threat to your fish, and the expertly fishing blue heron that waits patiently, and stalks your Koi.

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Your Koi know that almost all threats will come from above the water’s surface. This is instinctive in all fish. Most fish are also acutely aware of the rest of their environment, watching out for underwater, swimming predation which is detected by lateral line sensors even more easily than by relying on their eyesight.

Koi are easily spooked by a net entering their pond and won’t know the difference between a harmless “cleaning” effort and a menace to their safety, and act accordingly. Being low on the food chain, fish need to be extremely wary or … be eaten.

Every change in the Koi’s environment will trigger an emotional response. Which in turn will trigger a physical reaction, RUN! Koi are capable of jumping several feet into the air to escape a predator and can out-swim many of their would-be hunters with a strong thrust of a tail fin.

Is it any wonder that algae blooms have such a soothing effect on your fish? They can detect predators in their environment, but they have become invisible. Predators cannot see them.

How do you know if your fish are “mentally” ill?

Well, I have a theory that all fish that become physically ill begin with a mental over-stimulaPage 34 Mid-Atlantic Koi

tion. Perhaps it is moving into an unknown pond with untold dangers lurking beneath and above?

Perhaps it is simply sudden changes in water temperature. Fish are aware when water is “different” or becoming uninhabitable.

They are able to comprehend the difference between sweet, fresh, clean water and impending overall pollution which causes difficulty “breathing” and irritates their gill filaments. Yes, they can detect an increase in harmful bacteria in much the same way we know when we are coming down with the flu. Added to the stress of trying to breathe in declining water quality, they probably do know that death will follow… since there is nothing they can do for themselves to clean up the pond. They will begin jumping, trying to escape actually, when there is something unacceptable in their environment. Aside from that, there is nothing that can be done.

When there are too many fish in the pond and fish are banging into each other when they swim, I believe they know. When spawning in spring, fish have a sense of urgency, a need to reproduce to keep the species alive. Emotional stress?

I would imagine so. After having all your eggs knocked out of you and all your body parts bruised or torn, I’d say, as a female fish, you know you are in trouble. As a male fish, after spawning, I would expect to be depleted as well and probably bruised, too. Add to this a lot of additional protein in the water that threatens to choke you and it has to trigger a mental response.

So, how do you look after your Koi’s mental health and thereby assure it of a longer life?

Water changes, good filtration, healthy diet, careful stocking density, culling when necessary, July 2015

and planning the construction of the pond for the best predator-proofing before even adding fish.

Pay careful attention to the actions and appearance of your Koi so you will have less need to net them. Or carefully and slowly adapt your fish to a net being used in your pond, so it no longer triggers a stress response.

It is comforting to use food to associate your approach to the pond, which will begin to remove the fear of large above-water predators (human).

And do water testing to prevent spikes in ammonia, chlorine, chloramines, temperatures, etcetera, which will also trigger the stress.

Remember, parasites and disease do not kill fish– stress does! Stress weakens the fish so these other opportunists can jump in and take credit for the “kill”… !

July 2015

Looking for back issues?

Take a look at the club’s website

www.makc.com

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 35

Ryukin Goldfish

• The Ryukin is a double-tail goldfish, possessing an oval body shape, which is almost round, with paired anal, ventral and pectoral fins. The dorsal fin should be carried erect and is usually 1/3 the depth of the body. The caudal fin, which is forked, is from 3/4 to 1-1/2 times the length of the body. The distinguishing feature of this fish is the hump, which starts at the back of the head, and arches markedly until the start of the dorsal fin. In some cases, the hump can take on a double appearance, with one hump starting at the back of the head and developing into a second hump just before the dorsal fin. The head is often overlooked on Ryukins, but should appear triangular when viewed from the top of the fish.

Page 36 Mid-Atlantic Koi

• The Ryukin comes in a variety of colors, including red, red and white, orange, white, olive or drab green, and calico. Red, and red and white Ryukins seem to have an intense coloration; recently all-black, metallic blue and “Goshiki” (silver or gray with orange markings) have been introduced from the Far East.

• The presence of the hump is an important characteristic when judging this fish. Single or two-colored metallic fish tend to have humps that are more pronounced than either metallic calico or matte/nacreous calico fish. It is important to note that when judging Broadtail Ryukin, care should be taken to distinguish between July 2015

poorly developed Veiltail/Ryukin crosses, and actual Broadtail types. The presence of an identifiable hump will be the determining factor in distinguishing improperly developed crosses between Veiltails/Ryukins.

Veiltail/Ryukin crosses should not be entered in the Ryukin category in goldfish shows, but should be benches in the “Other” or “Miscellaneous” categories.

• All other characteristics being equal, the following rankings apply to finnage types: o Broad-tailed Ryukin o Long-finned Ryukin

o Medium finned Ryukin o Short finned Ryukin • Regardless of fin type, all Ryukin should have proportional fins. That is, a fish should not have a long tail matched with short pectoral, ventral and anal fins. Similarly, finnage should match the size and shape of the body; a mis-match in size and proportion of fins is considered a major conformation issue.

Overall, the Ryukin finnage should “balance” with the body to create pleasing symmetry.

• Ryukin sometimes develop swimming problems, due to the placement of the air bladder. Impaired swimming motion is considered to be a conformation issue.

Calico Short Fin Ryukin

Red & White Medium Fin Ryukin July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 37

American Goldfish Association

Description

Points

2014 Goldfish Standards Variety Name: Ryukin Dorsal Fin: Y/N, Y Tail Type: Double Special Characteristic: Hump

Body Style

20

Coloration

20

Deportment and Condition

20

Finnage (note: scoring for

finnage in order of preference Broad-tail, long-finnage, medium finnage, short finnage)

20

Special Characteristics – quality of

20

hump (additional points)

Total

100

Calico Long Fin Ryukin

Single-Colored Broadtail Ryukin Red and White Long Fin Ryukin Page 38 Mid-Atlantic Koi

July 2015

Double Tail Fish Veiltail

• The Veiltail is a round bodied fish, and possesses paired anal, ventral and pectoral fins. The dorsal fin is usually ¾ or more of the depth of the body and should be carried fully erect, and the caudal fin, which in the best specimens is completely straight, is often the length of the body to 2 times the length of the body. The distinguishing feature of this fish is the finnage; the fins literally flow around the fish as they swim, giving the impression that the fish is gliding in the water. The body is round, and should look almost like a ball, and be very compact.

• Veiltails have a body size of 5 to 6 inches; the body shape should be round, with an arch July 2015

to the back. The presence of a pronounced hump indicates that the fish is a cross between a Veiltail and a Ryukin. Since these crosses are neither a true Veiltail, nor a true Ryukin, they should be marked down when judging. Alternatively, Veiltail/Ryukin crosses can be entered in the “other” category in a fish show, where they can expect higher placement.

• Finnage is the primary characteristic of this fish. Dorsal fins should be carried erect (a slight bending of the dorsal is allowed, but pronounced bending should be marked down). It is common for the dorsal to be two to three times the depth of the body.

The caudal fin should be long and flowing.

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 39

Fullness and volume of the caudal fins is desired over shear length that can destroy symmetry. The edges of the caudal fin should be as straight as possible; pronounced forking of the tail should be marked-down. The length of the caudal fin is two to three times the length of the body. • Veiltails come in metallic coloration with red, orange and blue-silver colors being the most common. Single coloration is the norm in Veiltails. Calico Veiltails are sometimes seen and the same rules apply in calico coloration of Veiltails, as in other varieties. • Veiltails sometimes develop swimming problems, due to the placement of the air bladder. Impaired swimming motion is considered to be a conformation issue.

Page 40 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Natural Colored Veiltail

July 2015

American Goldfish Association 2014 Goldfish Standards Variety Name: Veiltail Dorsal Fin: Y/N, Y Tail Type: Double Special Characteristic: Finnage

Description

Red Veiltail

Points

Body Style

20

Coloration

20

Deportment and Condition

20

Finnage

20

Special Characteristics – Finnage (additional points)

20

Total

100

Nacreous (Calico) Veiltail

!

July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 41

The Deadliest Creature on Earth!

Have you ever wondered which creature is responsible for killing the most people?

(Malaria and Canine heartworm), and Culex (West Nile, Encephalitus and Avian Malaria).

Perhaps a shark? Maybe some type of snake or spider? Or maybe some sort of large land mammal like a grizzly bear or a lion?

At more than 1 million fatalities each year, the mosquito is most certainly the deadliest.

Why They Bite If you were thinking along those lines, then I’m sorry to disappoint, but the deadliest animal known today is quite a bit smaller than all of those. Believe it or not, found almost everywhere, on every continent except Antarctica, our deadliest creature is the mosquito!

How is this possible?

Mosquitos are notorious for transmitting diseases. They carry with them diseases like malaria, dengue fever, yellow fever, encephalitis, West Nile virus, and countless others. Acting as vessels for diseases, mosquitoes transmit these diseases to either us, or animals. These diseases can then make us very ill and sometimes even lead to death.

It is not actually one type of mosquito that is transmitting all of these diseases, but in fact, it’s several. The most common belong to the genera Aedes (Dengue and Yellow Fever), Anopholes Page 42 Mid-Atlantic Koi

Mosquitoes need the protein in our blood, or the blood of other animals, in order to lay their eggs.

This means that only the female mosquitoes need blood. In other words, next time you find yourself scratching away at one or more of those incredibly itchy and annoying mosquito bites, you can thank female mosquitoes for that. The male mosquitoes are content living off plant nectar.

The way a female mosquito bites us is by sticking her thin, sharp proboscis into our flesh. As she draws blood she inserts some of her saliva along with anticoagulants to keep the blood from clotting. This is where the danger lies and gives mosquitos the rightful title of being the most deadly. In the mosquito saliva there could be viruses and parasites lurking, ready to infect us.

These diseases can be deadly, but are not normally transmissible between humans.

However, mosquitos are doing an excellent July 2015

job acting as vectors for transmission of these diseases.

In Memoriam

But how exactly do the mosquitos find us?

Mosquitos have several different ways to sense living things so that they can then bite and extract blood. The first of those is chemical sensing. Mosquitos can actually detect CO 2 in the air from about 100 feet away. As we and other animals around us exhale, mosquitos are alerted of our presence.

Mosquitos can actually detect CO 2 in the air from about 100 feet away. So maybe we can just hold our breath next time we see a mosquito?

Well, it’s not quite that easy. Mosquitos can also detect heat and have visual sensors that can detect color contrast and movement.

It might be a little harder to trick that mosquito!

Although attempting to hide completely from mosquitoes might not work, there are plenty of things we can do to make our live a little easier and safer, such as:

• • • • •

Wear long sleeves & pants.

Put on mosquito repellents that contain DEET. Avoid being outside during dawn, dusk, or late evening.

Eliminate stagnant water. Stagnant water attracts mosquitos & gives them a good place to lay their eggs.

If you have a pond, consider stocking it with Gambusia, which feed off mosquito larvae.

As irritating as these insects can be, they have been around for a whole lot longer than us – about 30 million years. So, it seems inevitable that we must learn to exist with them, but it doesn’t hurt for us to have some kind of upper hand to protect ourselves. !

July 2015

Tom Ayers

om Ayers passed May 22, 2015. Tom was a long time member of the Southern Arizona Koi Assoc. He was very active in the Koi community, being an AKCA Koi Judge and having raised a couple of Koi that took Grand Champion in Tucson, Phoenix, San Diego, and Portland. It was Tom’s wish that there would be no funeral or celebration of life.

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Tom is to be cremated and Mark, a High School friend who lives in the Denver area, will take Tom's remains and bury them in a family plot that is in the Sacramento area.

Tom’s ever smiling face will be missed at the Koi Shows.

Please send submissions for our Sunshine Column to - Carolyn Weise, Editor makcmag@makc.com ❖ Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 43

Treasurer’s Report

On the Road to a Koi Event July 10-12 Tri-State ZNA Koi Show/Anniversary Event Held at Kodama Koi Garden Kodama in Saddle River, New Jersey. http://tristateznakoi.com/

July 17- 19 Puget Sound Koi Club 17th Annual Young Koi Show

Submitted by Anthony Vitale, New York Beginning Balance March 2015 Income Advertising Sponsor Membership Total Income

$475.00 30.00 210.00 $715.00

Ending Balance April 2015 Saving Balance Club Total Balance As if April 2015

Hoshi Koi in Tacoma, WA website: www.pskc.us Contact Maggie Post at russell761@aol.com or Monte McQuade at montwila@comcast.net

August 28 - 29 Idaho Water Garden & Koi Society 22nd Annual Koi Show Zamzows - Meridian Chinden Location Meridian, ID website: www.iwgks.org Contact Sot Chimonas 208-286-0288 sotchimonas@msn.com

September 11-13 ZNA Potomac Koi Show Held at Meadowlark Gardens, Virginia; for information see our website http://www.znapotomac.org/show.htm

September 19 - 20 Washington Koi & Water Garden Society 24th Annual Koi & Water Garden Show Sky Nursery in Shoreline, WA website: www.washingtonkoi.org Contact: showchair@washingtonkoi.org

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$16,210.22

$16,925.22 $6,327.15 $23,252.37 ❖

September 25–27 35th Annual Koi Show Northwest Koi & Goldfish Club (ZNA NW Chapter) Held at Uwajimaya’s, Beaverton, OR, in conjunction with the Festival of Japan. Contact: Daren Beck, Show Chair @ beckoi65@gmail.com or 503-507-8510 Joel Rutledge. For more information visit the club’s website: www.nwkg.org Have an upcoming Koi event, please send the information to makcmag@makc.com. We will be glad to include it in future articles.

Don’t forget your own MAKC Club has events coming up that can be found in our digital magazine or at www.makc.com. We always need volunteers for meetings and shows. It is amazing how much you can learn by helping. Take advantage of being an MAKC member and participate in the club events.

See you soon at a Koi event. ❖

July 2015

M A KC Me e t i ng s an d Eve nt s Remember! MAKC members may attend meetings in any Chapter.

Central Chapter Meetings Sunday, July 12 Summer BBQ Newark, DE Future meetings • August 2 or 9 Bethlehem, PA- guest speaker Dr. Brian Palmerio, Koi Health and Ulcer disease • September -open • October 4 in Allentown, PA !

• Sunday November 15, at Masonic Lodge in Saugerties • Sunday December 13, at Holiday Dinner at Roe and Herb’s Contact Herb Ehrich for further information about upcoming meetings - email Herb at koiking15@yahoo.com ❖

South Chapter Watch for upcoming events Contact Alan if you have questions or can host a meeting at - alanmickelson@msn.com !

Long Island Chapter Meetings Sunday, July 19 Pond Tour This will be an event for all current members of MAKC and members at large are also welcome to attend.

• August BBQ looking for a hos

Send your meeting and event information to Carolyn Weise makcmag@makc.com Deadline July 3rd for the August 2015 issue.

Contact Bruce Levine 516-477-1823 or kuba1953@aol.com !

Saugerties Chapter Meetings Sunday, July 19 3:00 pm Paul and Harriet’s Pond Future meetings • Sunday August 16, Open • Sunday September 20, Open • Sunday October 18, at Herb’s pond July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 45

F..A..S..T.. Ads – July Disclaimer: MAKC and its officers assume no responsibility for claims of advertisers or the quality/serviceability of goods offered.

FOR SALE Remember any MAKC member can list their Koi, pond, or related items for sale here in your magazine at no charge. Please contact Joann today if you have something for sale.

BAMBOO. Winter hardy and tropical for indoors. Thinning collection. Reasonable prices.

Call Ron Altman, NY 718-442-1673 (Office) or 908-658-3055 (H).

F..A..S..T.. Ads Policy & Deadlines F..A..S..T.. Ads are available FREE to MAKC members only; no commercial ads. Ads are limited to 10 items and must include name, phone number, town and state. Deadline is the 1st of each month.

Help do you have an hour or two? We need a volunteer to manage this page.

Please contact Joann Mead 845-389-5712 jo_mead@earthlink.net

Page 46 Mid-Atlantic Koi

WANTED KOI. Foster Home. Large natural pond. Happy to accept your overgrown or unwanted “children.” Call Rich Menashe in Metuchen, NJ, 732-767-0720.

KOI. Wanted Healthy Pond Grade KOI over 10˝.

Will pay reasonable prices. I have a 750,000 gallon pond and will adopt any unwanted KOI. Call Joseph Pollock in Virginia at 540-788-9222.

KOI. Wanted for large deep natural pond next to soon to be built wine tasting room in wine country of Northern Virginia. Happy to accept any and all Koi of any size and color. Stop by and visit them next year when our tasting room opens. Call Mark Malick in Purcellville, VA, 540-270-3399 (cell).

KOI BITO MAGAZINES – in good condition.

Send list with asking price, or call Roger Klocke 701-491-2803, E-mail at rklockejr@aol.com.

Mailing address: Roger Klocke, 4805 Meadow Creek Dr., Fargo, ND 58104.

KOI STORE EMPLOYEE. Looking for a knowledgeable Koi and pond hobbyist.

Part-time, competitive pay. Outstanding employee discounts! Call John at Blue Ribbon Koi Products. 703-753-7566.

MAKC SECRETARY AND MAKC SALES POSITIONS – are open; please contact club president Joann Mead for more information on how you can fill one of these positions.

Joann Mead 845-389-5713 or e-mail jo_mead@earthlink.net. !

July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Ad Index ABC Pond Book . . . . . . . . . .35

Next issue learn about the Goldfish variety the Telescope.

Pentair Aquatic

Hikari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3, 8

Eco-Systems, Inc. . . . . . 8, 13

Kodama Koi Farm . . . . . . 8, 20

Quality Koi Company . . . 8, 19

Koi Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Rainbow Koi . . . . . . . . . . .8, 21

Mazuri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 35

Smart Koi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Microbe-Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Total Koi Food . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Nisei Koi Farm . . . . . . . . . 8, 19

Tri-State ZNA Koi Show . . . .31

Advertise in Mid-Atlantic Koi!

Join or Renew Your Membership Submit Your MAKC Membership Form by printing out page 49 and mailing it in.

Do it today, it only takes a couple of minutes.

Ad Rates from $15/issue* for a business card ad to $300/issue* for a full page color ad.

Reach your target audience of Koi keepers & water gardeners each month and leave your competition in the dust!!

Contact Joann Mead at 845-389-5712 (leave message) or e-mail: jo_mead@earthlink.net to request information on our advertiser packages and/or a copy of our ad rate sheet. *With an annual 10 issue contract.

July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 47

Picture to Share –

Water Lilies Elegant water lilies grace four new stamps from the U.S. Postal ServiceÂŽ.

Each stamp depicts a close-up of the flower of one of four classic garden water lilies. The photographs were shot in summer at the Kenilworth Park & Aquatic Gardens in Washington, D.C Water lilies are aquatic herbs that live in both temperate and tropical climates around the world; they are found in still freshwater habitats.

There are more than 50 species in the Page 48 Mid-Atlantic Koi

water lily family (Nymphaeaceae) and hundreds of hybrids.

Art director Phil Jordan designed the stamps using existing photographs by photographer Cindy Dyer.

Issue Date: March 20, 2015 Do you have a picture to share?

Please send them to the Editor, Carolyn Weise. makcmag@makc.com !

July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Club (MAKC) Individual/Family Application Mid-Atlantic Koi Club (MAKC) is an association of Koi, goldfish and watergarden enthusiasts who gather to expand their knowledge and appreciation of the hobby. The club meets at convenient regional locations in the Mid-Atlantic area. We also publish an informative monthly online magazine (bi-monthly in Nov/Dec & Jan/Feb).

The Family/Individual Membership dues are $30 per year. Membership renewal date is one year after membership application has been accepted. You will be notified when your membership is up for renewal.

Please provide the following information: Date ___________ New Member _____ Renewing Member ____ Name_______________________________________________________ Address _________________________ City ___________________ State _____Zip _______ Phone _______________ E-mail____________________________________________ Please check all subjects in the following list that interest you, or that you would be able to assist the club with: _____ Have a Club meeting at your home _____ Pond construction, maintenance, filtration theory and practice _____ How to select Koi – their diseases and treatment _____ Feature your pond for members to visit or be featured on a Pond Tour _____ Share a special skill or knowledge at a meeting _____ Volunteer in the club (circle choices) President, Vice President, Recording Secretary, Membership Secretary, Treasurer, Newsletter Editor, Webmaster, Marketing _____ Are there any fish or pond related problems you need help with? If so, what kind? ____________________________________________________________________________ We do not sell/offer/trade/distribute member information to outside enterprises Please mail membership application along with a check (payable to MAKC) to our Membership Secretary or bring it to any meeting. You can also pay via credit card at www.Paypal.com. Our PayPal account email address is kgwgclub@earthlink.net You will be notified when your membership is up for renewal.

Do not wish to have name published in Membership Directory please check box _______ MAKC PO Box 91 Ulster Park, NY 12487 Phone Number (845) 389-5712 E-mail: kgwgclub@earthlink.net July 2015

Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 49