Srbija drumovima, prugama, rekama engleski niska rezolucija by Aleksandar Ćosić

P S CI RE IN T P PR AR N

Touring

SERBIA

by Roads, Railways and Rivers

„ PDRB KOLUBARA“ LAZAREVAC

”Serbia”, Đorđe Jovanović, 1900

SERBIA – BY ROADS, RAILWAYS AND RIVERS Publisher:

”Princip Bonart Press”, Hilandarska 28; +381 (11) 3222 521, 3222 240 e-mail: ddusrbiju@ptt.yu; www.turistinfosrbija.com

Copublisher:

Tourist Organization of Serbia, Dečanska 8a, +381 (11) 334 30 41

On Behalf of the Publisher: Mišo Vujović, director and editor in chief On Behalf of the Copublisher: Miodrag Popović, director Deputy Editor-in-Chief and Publication Editor: Branislav Matić Assistant Editor-in-Chief: Branimir Stanojević Technical Editor: Aleksandar Ćosić Proofreader: Marina Miladinović Texts written by: Momo Kapor, Branimir Stanojević, Dragan Bosnić, Milena Bogavac, Tijana Jovanović, Dubravka Preradović, Vojislav Filipović, Srba Janković, Luka Mijatović, Vladimir Ilić, Milojko Hadžić, Bogdan Desnica, Vladimir Putnik, Branislav Matić Used: TOS archive, Tourist Informer of Serbia archive, web archives of cities and municipalities Translators: Sandra Gagić, Tina Trajković-Filipović Photographs: Ministry of Trade, Tourism and Services archive, TOS archive, Tourist Informer of Serbia archive, Dragan Bosnić, Željko Sinobad, Milan Melka, Mišo Vujović, Aleksandar Ćosić, Luka Mijatović, Dragoslav Mirković, Dejan Gaćeša, Milan Cvijetić Cover Design: Ana Mandić Maps: Dragan Kozomara, Tourist Informer of Serbia archive, TOS archive Marketing: Mirko Vujović, Snežana Mladenović, Jelena Sekulić Patron: Government of the Republic of Serbia – Ministry of Trade, Tourism and Services Donor:

PDRB ”Kolubara”, Lazarevac

Partners: Serbian Youth with Invalidity Forum, College of Tourism, Belgrade Media Sponsor:

RTS – Public Service of Serbia

Print: ”Portal” (Belgrade), ”Novi dani” (Čačak) CIP - Каталогизација у публикацији Народна библиотека Србије, Београд

: Tourist Organization of Serbia, 2007 (Belgrade : Portal ; Čačak : Novi dani). - 592 str. : ilustr. ; 21 cm

338.48(497.11)(036) 908(497.11)(036)

Prevod dela: Србија - друмовима, пругама, рекама. - Kor. nasl. - Podatak o autorima preuzet iz kolofona. - Tiraž 2.000.

Touring Serbia by Roads, Railways and Rivers / [[prepared by] Mišo Vujović ; texts written by Momo Kapor ... [et al. ] ; photographs Dragan Bosnić ... [et al.] ; maps Dragan Kozomara ; translators Sandra Gagić, Tina Trajković-Filipović]. -Belgrade : Princip Bonart Pres

ISBN 978-86-85215-26-1 (PBP) 1. Vujović, Mišo a) Србија - Водичи COBISS.SR-ID 140550668

”White Angel”, fresco, Mileševo Monastery

„Blue Angel”, fresco, Church of St. Ahilije, Arilje

The Beginning

of the Journey

THE SECRET OF A TRUE JOURNEY

Discovering Serbia

journey is not only a way to pass a distance between two points in space, most often using the shortest way and most efficiently. Much more than that, a journey is exploring, getting to know, conquering the new, adventure, game. It can be a passion, philosophy, point of view, it may have its aesthetics and poetics, its ceremonies. In it, there is something of the ancient alchemy secret: not only the lands one travels through change, but also the traveler himself. A journey is not only getting to know the world we live in, but also one’s own soul. And this is not only a phrase, like the too often wasted one that ”beauty is in the eye of the one who watches”; it is the original announcement given to us by sages: ”The divine is not in the object of admiration, but in the one who admires.” To travel – it is not only to watch, it is to see. It is not only to acknowledge, it is to feel, to experience, to take within oneself, to make one’s own, a part of one’s experience and one’s being. You can travel to a country several times, and still not know anything important about it. It may not open to you, or you to it. You can remain just a user of technical services, like you use the ATM on the corner, in a nameless city, waiting to change a plane for who knows where. You cannot truly get to know a country if you don’t penetrate the soul of its people, its colors, scents, tastes, lightness and darkness, symbols, wines, spices, melodies, peaks, waters. If you don’t listen to its singing, its laughter and its silence. If you don’t feel how it expresses its joy and its sorrow. If you don’t check what travelers before you had written and if you don’t leave a letter to the ones that will come later. This book before you is, before all, an invitation to a true journey, and then support during the journey. An invitation to discover Serbia, regardless whether you are a host or a guest, regardless whether you are here for the first time, or coming back to it as to an old flame. This book is an invitation to a journey not only through space, but also through time, not only through the real and virtual, but also through dreams and imagination. It is a combination of a rich tourist guide, geopoetics, cultural-historical and economic panorama, a road sign for traditionally good places and calling upon creativity. All this together. This book unifies within itself many forces and many voices, it interlaces innumerable sources and texts, it is joyful above any vanity, therefore representing, in the real sense of the word, a joint deed. What is good in it – it is yours. What you think is not good – forgive. The roads, railways and rivers await. Serbia awaits. Let’s go. 

Ако стопалима љубиш ову земљу, дођи. ” Ако је газиш — врати се, путниче.” Васко Попа

â&#x20AC;?If, with your feet, you caress this soil, then come. If you merely tread on it, then go back, traveler.â&#x20AC;? Vasko Popa

8 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Contents • Beginning of the Journey: Discovering Serbia (5) • Manual: Basic Information (12) • The Paths of Memory: Chronology (16) • The Paths of Development: New Upswing of Serbian Tourism (20) • Itinerary Writing: Serbia in the Notebooks of Great People (24) • The Inner Journey: Sacral and Symbolic Geography of Serbia (30) • Iron Paths: Railways of Serbia (32) • T he Paths of Mountains: Above the Clouds (36) • The Paths of Waters: Rivers, the Bloodstream of the Earth (42) • The Paths of Health: Serbian Spa Tourism (56) • The Paths of the Countryside: Tourism and Idyll (62) • Hunting and Fishing: More than Sports (66) • The Paths of Plains: Castles and Farms of Vojvodina (72) • The Paths of Earth: Bread in Abundance, Up to the Sky (76) • The Paths of Wine: About Wine and other Truths (78) • Intersections: Ethno-Cultural and Tourist Events (90) • The Paths of Music: Vibrations and Temperaments (96) • Road Watchmen: Fortresses (100) • Roadside Monuments: The Secret of the Stone Smile (104) • Traveling Companions: Hitchhikers (106) • Fascinations: The peak Tornička Bobija (108), Waterfalls of Sopotnica (109), Stone Mountain (110), Kučaj mountains (111), Tičije Polje (112), The Gorge of Jelašnica (113), The River Uvac (114)

SERBIA, BY REGIONS Bačka............................................. 118 Subotica (120), Palić (122), Zobnatica (124), Bačka Topola (124), Sombor (124), Apatin (126), Mali Idjoš (128), Kula (128), Odžaci (128), Bač (130), Bačka Palanka (130), Bački Petrovac (132), Vrbas (132), Srbobran (132), Kanjiža (134), Senta (134), Ada (134), Bečej (136), Karadjordjevo (138), Temerin (138), Žabalj (138), Titel (140) Srem............................................... 142 Sremski Karlovci (144), Fruška Gora (148), Beočin (160), Šid (160), Sremska Mitrovica (162), Pećinci (166), Ruma (168), Irig (170), Indjija (170), Stara Pazova (170) Novi Sad........................................ 172 Serbian Athens (174), Temples (174), Petrovaradin (174), Secular Buildings (178), Sremska Kamenica (182) Banat............................................. 184 Zrenjanin (186), Kikinda (194), Novi Kneževac (198), Čoka (198), Novi Bečej (200), Nova Crnja (202), Žitište (202), Sečanj (202), Opovo (204), Kovačica (206), Alibunar (206), Plandište (208), Vršac (208), Pančevo (214), Kovin (224), Bela Crkva (226) Belgrade....................................... 230 The Capital City (232), Modern Belgrade (236), Republic Square (238), Terazije (242), Nikola Pašić Square (244), Skadarlija (246), Belgrade Temples (246), Belgrade Museums (252), Zemun (258)

Orientation 9 West Serbia................................... 268 Šabac (270), Bogatić (274), Vladimirci (276), Koceljeva (276), Ub (278), Lajkovac (280), Ljig (280), Lazarevac (282), Loznica (284), Mali Zvornik (288), Krupanj (290), Osečina (292), Valjevo (292), Mionica (296), Ljubovija (298), Bajina Bašta (300), Kosjerić (302) Southwest Serbia....................... 306 Užice (308), Požega (312), Čajetina (314), Arilje (314), Ivanjica (316), Nova Varoš (318), Priboj (320), Prijepolje (322), Mileševa (324), Lim Monasteries (324), Sjenica (326), Tutin (328) Valley of Kings............................ 330 Kraljevo (332), Žiča (334), Maglič (338), Lilac Valley (338), Vrnjačka Spa (340), Ma taruška Spa (340), Bogutovačka Spa (342), Studenica (342), St. Sava’s Hermitage (346), Raška (348), Gradac (350), Novi Pazar (350), Old Ras (352), Sopoćani (352), Peter’s Church (356), Djurdjevi Stupovi (358), Crna Reka (360) Šumadija and Smederevo........... 362 Kragujevac (364), Batočina (370), Rača (372), Lapovo (372), Arandjelovac (374), Topola (376), Gornji Milanovac (378), Rudnik (380), Čačak (382), Ovčar-Kablar Monasteries (384), Lučani (394), Knić (394), Smederevo (396), Smederevska Palanka (400), Velika Plana (402), Koporin (402), Pokajnica (402) Braničevo and Pomoravlje....... 406 Požarevac (408), Veliko Gradište (408), Kostolac (410), Golubac (412), Malo Crniće (414), Kučevo (414), Žabari (414), Petrovac upon Mlava (414), Vitovnica (416), Ždrelo (416), Gornjak (416), Žagubica (416), Svilajnac (418), Despotovac (420), Manasija (420), Resava Cave (422), Jagodina (424), Rekovac (428), Kalenić (428), Ćuprija (430), Ravanica (430), Sisojevac (432), Paraćin (432) Rasina and Toplica..................... 434 Kruševac (436), Lazarica (438), Trstenik (440), Ljubostinja (440), Varvarin (442),

Ćićevac (444), Stalać (444), Ražanj (446), Mojsinje Monasteries (446), Aleksinac (448), Aleksandrovac (448), Brus (450), Blace (450), Prokuplje (452), Kuršumlija (454), Prolom Spa (456), Lukovska Spa (456), Kuršumlija Spa (456), Devil’s Town (456), Žitoradja (458) East Serbia................................... 460 Kladovo (462), Djerdap (462), Tabula Traiana (462), Lepenski Vir (464), Majdanpek (466), Rajko’s Cave (466), Negotin (468), Bor (470), Lazar’s Cave (470), Zaječar (472), Gamzigrad (474), Boljevac (474), Soko Spa (476), Knjaževac (478), Svrljig (480) Niš.................................................. 482 Imperial Town (84), Naissus and Mediana (488), Temples (490), National Museum (492), Niš Spa (494), Gornji Matejevac (494) Southeast Serbia........................ 496 Leskovac (498), Justiniana Prima (Empress’s City) (500), Bojnik (500), Lebane (502), Medvedja (502), Vlasotince (502), Crna Trava (502), Vranje (504), Vranje Spa (506), Vladičin Han (508), Markovo Kale (508), Surdulica (508), Vlasina Lake (510), Bosilegrad (510), Trgovište (512), Prohor Pčinjski (512), Devil’s Rock (512), Buja novac (512), Preševo (514), The Sićevo Gorge (514), Bela Palanka (516), Pirot (516), Temska (518), Babušnica (518), Zvonačka Spa (518), Dimitrovgrad (520), Poganovo (520) Kosovo and MetohIA................... 522 Temple Country (524), Kosovska Mitrovica (526), Zvečan (526), Devič (526), Banjska (526), Vučitrn (528), Priština (530), Gračanica (530), Ulpiana (532), Gazimestan (532), Novo Brdo (532), Lipljan (532), Prizren (534), The Church of Our Lady Ljeviška (536), Orahovac (538), Velika Hoča (538), Djakovica (538), Dečani (540), Peć (542), Istok (546) Service Info................................. 554

12 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers N

NORVEŠKA

EST EST.

S ŠVEDSKA LV

DK DANSKA IRL

VELIKA BRITANIJA B

NT SK I

NL HOL. BEL.

FRANCUSKA

CS ^E[KA

CH ŠVAJC.

jsk

IJ A

UKRAJINA UA

NEMA^KA

L LUKS.

ŠPANIJA E

P POQSKA

i gur Lu e r o m

MD SLOV. MOL. SK A AUSTR. MAÐARSKA RUMUNIJA H SLO. RO HRVAT. SLO HR BiH SRB Ja dr BIH SRBIJA BUGARSKA an I s BG ITALIJA ko m CG MK or CG MAK. e AL. A GR^KA Tirensko Jonsko GR more more

Crno more

TURSKA TR

ejs Eg

RT UG AL

RUS

BY BELORUSIJA

RUSIJA LIT.

OK E

IRSKA

LET.

Sredozemno

Main Information Geographical Location: Central part of the Balkan Peninsula, Southeast and Central Europe. Between longitudes 41° 50’ 32”and 46° 11’ 25” north, and latitudes 18° 26’ 04” and 23° 00’ 42” east. The Danube flows through Serbia or touches it in the length of 588,6 kilometres. Area: 88.361 square kilometres. Climate: Diverse – a continental climate in the Panonia lowland, moderate continental climate in lower mountainous areas, alpine climate in high mountains. It features moderately warm summers and cold winters. Autumns are longer and warmer than springs. The lowest temperatures are in the mountains (where negative average temperatures last for 4-6 months). The average

KIPAR

temperature is about 10° Celsius. January and February are the coldest months of the year. July is the hottest, with temperatures reaching 35-44° Celsius. Relief: The most prominent geographical wholes: Panonian, Rhodope, Carpathian-Balkan, Dinaric, Šar. Official Name: Republic of Serbia. The autonomous provinces Vojvodina and Kosovo and Metohija are a constituent part of Serbia. Population: 7,478,820. Capital: Belgrade, population 1,600,000. Official Language: Serbian, written in both Cyrillic and Latin scripts. Religions: Most of the population is Orthodox Christian, with sizeable Roman Catholic and Islamic communities, as well as other denominations. Monetary Unit: Dinar (100 paras).

Manual 13

Tisa

Banks and Post Offices: Open 8 a.m. 200 and 300 Dinars (approximately €3 to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 3 and €4). p.m. on Saturday. Only selected banks Electricity: 220 V, 50Hz. and post offices are open on Sundays. Time Zone: Central European Time, All larger post offices offer currency ex- GMT+1. change and public telephones. Tolls: Toll is payable on the following Credit Cards: DINERS, VISA, AMERI- highways: E-75 Belgrade – Novi Sad, CAN EXPRESS and MASTER CARD are E-70 Novi Sad – Feketić – Subotica, Eaccepted. 75 Belgrade – Niš, E-75 Niš – Leskovac, Medical Institutions: Hospitals and and E-70 Belgrade – Šid. clinics offer emergency health services Dialing Codes: From abroad, dial +381 24 hours a day. Pharfor Serbia. For Belgrade (0)11, for Novi SUBOTICA macies are open Sad (0)21, for Kragujevac (0)34, for Niš from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. (0)18. Dialling codes for mobile netMonday to Friday works: 062, 063, 064, 065. For internaContinental climate and 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. tional calls from Serbia: 99 followed by Du NOVI na v SAD Saturday. Only sethe country code and city code. lected pharmacies are Emergency Numbers: 92 for Sav a open on Sundays. police, 93 for fire-fighters, 94 v Museums: Working for ambulance, and Duna Dun BEOGRAD av hours varies, but most 977 for roadside museums are closed Drina assistance. Half-continental climate on Mondays. Tickets Entry Visa & Mo ra are inexpensive (€ 0.3 Tourist Visit va Za – 1.5). Permi ssions: The pa dn a Mo Churches and Monaste citizens of the EU do rav a Ju žn ries: Closed after eve not need an entry a NIŠ visa and may ning service (7 p.m.). Mountain All enforce a dress code stay within climate (pants or long skirts are a the territory must and shoulders and stomof Serbia up to PRIŠTINA ach have to be covered). The 90 days. Serbian Orthodox Church uses For organized tourthe Julian calendar, ”lagging” 14 ist groups of other days behind the common civil Grecountries, tourist vigorian calendar. sit permissions can be authorWater: Fit to drink. Most cities have ized for a period up to 30 days. Indipublic drinking fountains. Besides, Servidual entries from non-EU countries bia also has bottled water of exception- are permitted in Serbia up to the visa ally high quality. expiry date. Phone Booths: Available in all cities. Customs Regulations: The personal Phone cards (Halo kartice) may be pur- items of tourists during their journey or chased at newsstands for the price of stay in Serbia are not subject to customs Sa

Ta m

iš

sa Ti

li Ve

Mora

14 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers charges. Foreign visitors are allowed to bring an unlimited amount of foreign currency, with the obligation to report the amount when entering Serbia. Air Services: Local JAT Airways, the na tional air carrier, and many international airlines have regular flights from Belgrade to international destinations. Rail Services: A branchy railway network connects the Republic of Serbia with all parts of Europe, with day and night trains. Bus Services: Connect all parts of the country. Inter national bus lines to neighbouring countries and most European countries are available. Main International Roads From the north: E-75 Highway: Horgoš – Subotica – Novi Sad – Belgrade – Niš – Vranje – Preševo – Skopje. From the west: E-70 Highway: Batrovci – Sremska Mitrovica – Belgrade (connects to the E-75). At Niš the E-80 Highway branches off towards Bulgaria: Niš – Pirot – Dimitrovgrad. Border Crossings Hungary: Bački Breg, Kelebija, Horgoš. Romania: Srpska Crnja, Vatin, Kaludjerovo, Djerdap.

Bulgaria: Mokranje, Vrška Čuka, Gradina, Strezimirovci, Ribarci. Macedonia: Preševo, General Janković, Prohor Pčinjski, Globočica. Albania: Vrbnica, Prizren, Cafa Prusit. BiH (Republic of Srpska): Sremska Rača, Pavlovića Ćuprija, Trbušnica, Mali Zvor nik, Ljubovija, Bajina Bašta, Kotroman, Uvac, Jemena. Croatia: Batrovci, Šid, Sot, Nestin, Bačka Palanka, Bogojevo, Bezdan. Tourist Festivities: There are over 400 cultural and sports festivities in Serbia throughout the year, of both local and international importance. The most significant local festivities in more than 25 mu nicipalities are: The Festival of Brass Bands in Guča, The Homolje Motifs in Kučevo, The Mowing Festivity at Rajac, Smedere vo Autumn, Golden Hands of Serbia. International Festivals: In ternational Theatrical Festival (BITEF), International Musical Festival (BEMUS), International Festival of Tourism, Sports and Ecological Film (MEFEST), EXIT – summer festival in Novi Sad. Tourist Info Point: Tourist Organization of Serbia, Dečanska Street 8a/B, 11000 Belgrade, phone: + 381 11 33 42 521, fax: + 381 11 32 21 068, e-mail: ntos@ yubc.net, www.serbia-tourism.com

Manual 15

Map of the main roads in Serbia

SUBOTICA

E75

Bač.

Apatin

Čoka

Senta

Kikinda

Sombor Topola M. Iđoš

Bečej

Kula

Srbobran

Vrbas

Odžaci

Žitište

ZRENJANIN

Bačka Palanka

Plandište

v na

Alibunar

Kovačica

Vršac

Inđija

Ruma

E70

E75

NOVI SAD

Srem. Karlovci

Šid

Srpska Crnja

Nova Crnja

Novi Bečej

Bela Crkva av Dun

St. Pazova

Srem. Mitrovica

Pećinci

Bogatić

Koceljeva

E75

Ljig

Rudnik

G. Milanovac

Knić

Čajetina

Sirogojno

Priboj

ČAČAK Guča Bogutovačka Banja

Ivanjica

Svilajnac

Bor

Ćuprija Paraćin

Rekovac

Varvarin

Mataruška Banja Vrnjačka Banja

Despotovac

Jagodina

KRALJEVO

Negotin

Žagubica

E75

Lapovo Batočina

KRAGUJEVAC

Bajina Bašta Požega

Petrovac

Rača

Topola

Brza Palanka

Donji Majdanpek Milanovac

Aleksandrovac

Vel. Plana

Kladovo

Kučevo

Malo Crniće

Smed. Palanka

Aranđelovac

Valjevo

Tekija

POŽAREVAC Golubac

Mladenovac Lazarevac

Mali Osečina Zvornik

UŽICE

Veliko Gradište

SMEDEREVO

Obrenovac

Vladimirci

Loznica

PANČEVO

BEOGRAD

Surčin

Sava

ŠABAC

Ljubovija

Borča

N. Pazova

Zaječar

Boljevac

Ražanj

Ćićevac

Sokobanja

Trstenik

E75 Aleksinac KRUŠEVAC

Nova Varoš

Knjaževac

Svrljig

NIŠ

Prijepolje

Brus Brzeće

Raška Sjenica

Leposavić

N. Pazar Tutin

Prokuplje

Kuršumlija

LESKOVAC

Lebane

Podujevo

Vučitrn

PEĆ

PRIŠTINA

Vladičin Han

Kosovska Kamenica

Gnjilane

Đakovica

Uroševac

PRIZREN

E75 Preševo

Surdulica

VRANJE

Bujanovac

Orahovac

Pirot

Dimitrovgrad

Vlasotince

Crna Trava

Medveđa

Obilić Kosovo Polje

E80

Babušnica

Bojnik

KOSOVSKA MITROVICA

Bela Palanka

Žitorađa

Bosilegrad

Trgovište

16 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers CHRONOLOGY

Years, dates, events 40 000 B.C. Traces of first Paleolithic settlements on the territory of Serbia. 7000 – 5500. Mesolithic in the Djerdap – first large culture on the territory of Serbia. 5500 – 4500. Older Neolithic – the Starčevo agricultural culture (named after the village of Starčevo near Pančevo). 4500 – 3200. Younger Neolithic – the Vinča culture, from Transylvania to the Vardar Valley (named after the village of Vinča near Belgrade). 3500. The beginning of metallurgy (Rudna Glava – the oldest Lepenski vir, mine in Europe). 6000 BC 2000 – 1000. Bronze Age (the Vatin Culture, Dubovac – Žuto Brdo). 1000 B.C. – 100 A.D. The Iron Age. The first historically recorded tribes: Mesians, Triballoi, Dardanians. 279. The Celts ravage Greece through the territory of Serbia. 269. Emperor Claudius II (Gothicus) wins the battle with the Goths near Niš. III – IV century. Several Roman Emperors born on the territory of present Serbia (Aurelian, Probus, Gallerius, Constantine the Great...) IV century. Sirmium – one of the capitals of the Empire. 395. Division of the Roman Empire. The territory of Serbia becomes a part of the Eastern Empire. 527 – 565. Byzantine Emperor Justinian founds and reconstructs cities, raises churches, and builds Justiniana PriEmperor ma in his home region. Constantine, III-IV century

VI century. The Slavs and Avars enter the Balkans from the Danube region, the Slavic tribes inhabit the Balkan Peninsula. IX century. Constantine and Methodius, Christian missionaries, the ”Slavic Apostles”: first Slavic script – the Glagolic Script; translation of ecclesiastic books into Ancient Slavic language; final Christianization of the southern Slavs. First mention of the Slavic name of Belgrade (White City) in (878). X century. Appearance of the Cyrillic Script. 1054. Great Schism between Western and Eastern Churches. 1166 – 1196. Grand Prince Stefan Nemanja, the founder of the Nemanjić dynasty, fights Byzantium, ru les the territory from Saint Sava the Adriatic Sea to Šar Planina; dies as monk Simeon in Chilandar on the Holy Mountain in 1199. 1175 – 1236. St. Sava (Prince Rastko Nemanjić), first Serbian Archbishop. 1196 – 1228. Stefan Ne manjić, King of Serbia sin ce 1217, called the FirstCrowned, marries Anna Dandolo; adds Niš, Vranje and Prizren to Serbia; receives his crown from the Pope. 1219. Serbian autocepha lous Archbishopric, with its seat in Žiča. Sava or dained an Archbishop in Nicea. 1243 – 1276. King Stefan Uroš I marries Helen of Anjou: economic advancement of Serbia. Saxon miners come to Serbia.

The Paths of Memory 17 1276 – 1282. King Stefan Dragutin gives the throne over to his brother Milutin in 1282. Dragutin then rules large areas in the north, as ”King of Srem”, until 1316. 1282 – 1321. King Stefan Uroš II Milutin expands the Serbian state to the south. Serbia under stronger influence of Byzantium. 1285. Mongols devastate Serbia. 1321 – 1330. King Stefan Uroš III of Dečani. 1330 – 1355. Successor of the throne Dušan defeats the Bul garians near Velbužd and King Milutin then det hrones his father. He conquers northern Greece and publishes the first law codex – Dušan’s Law Codex. 1346. Dušan crowned in Skopje as Emperor of Serbs and Greeks and coast regions. Serbian Orthodox Church raised to the level of Patriarchate. A page from Dušan’s 1355 – 1371. Emperor Law Codex Uroš, known as the Weak; Serbian aristocracy slips out of control, becomes independent, foreshadowing the breakdown of the Empire. 1371. Battle of Marica, after which the Turks begin conquering Serbia. 1377. Bosnian Prince Tvrtko, kin of the Nemanjić family, crowned as King of Bosnia and the Serbs in Mileševa Monastery 1389. Battle of Kosovo. Both rulers of the warring sides die (prince Lazar and sultan Murat I), as well as most of the Serbian aristocracy. Serbia becomes a vassal state of the OttoUroš Predić: man Empire. „Kosovo Girl”, 1919

1389 – 1427. Stefan Lazarević, son of prince Lazar, sovereign of Serbia from 1402. 1402 – 1459. Serbian Despotate: double vassalage – to the Turks and the Hungarians. Development of mining and commerce, flourishing of towns. 1427 – 1456. Sovereign Djuradj Branković, nephew of sovereign Stefan Lazarević. 1439 – 1444. A long war against the Turks, the first fall of the Despotate. 1459. After conquering a large part of Serbia (1439) and Novo Brdo (1455), the Turks conquer Smederevo, after which Serbia loses its independence. 1521. The fall of Belgra de, held by the Hungarians, into the hands of the Turks. The Turks needed only eight years after it to reach Vienna. 1557. For the first time after 1463, when the election of the patriarch was prevented and the Exarch of the Peć throne became a Cetinje metropolitan, Peć is given a patriarch. Makarije, brother of the Turkish great vizier Mehmed-Pasha Sokolović is ordained a patriarch. 1683 – 1699. Great War (ViChalice, 1567 enna War) between Austria and Turkey. Austrian army conquers Belgrade (1688). 1690. After the Austrian defeat at Kačanik, patriarch Arsenije III leads the migration of the Serbs to the north. 1717. The Austrian prince Eugene of Savoy defeats the Turks in the great battle near Belgrade and conquers Serbia up to Zapadna Morava. 1739. Belgrade Peace. The Sava and the Danube once again become a frontier between Austria and Turkey. 1751 – 1753. A considerable number of Serbs immigrate to Russia. A mass colonization from different parts of the Habsburg Monarchy creates a multiethnic structure of Vojvodina. 1788 – 1791. Austro-Turkish War. Koča’s Frontier. 1804 – 1813. First Serbian Uprising, a national liberation armed fight of the Serbian peo-

18 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Seals of Karađorđe Petrović and Miloš Obrenović

ple against Turkish reign. At the assembly in Orašac, on February 14, 1804, a decision was brought about starting an uprising and Djordje Petrović, called Black Djordje or Karadjordje was elected Vožd (leader). 1813. Breakdown of the First Serbian Uprising. 1814. Hadži-Prodan’s Uprising. 1815. Second Serbian Uprising. Leader of the uprising prince Miloš Obrenović. Karađorđe`s flag 1833. Serbia gains autonomy according to the hatisherif. The sultan’s berat confirms prince Miloš Obrenović as the hereditable ruler of Serbia. 1835. Constitution of the Principality of Serbia, known as the Sretenje Constitution. Under the pressure of Austria, Russia and Turkey, suspended as too liberal. Then follow Janko Katić’s cartridge belt the Turkish Constitution (1838), the Deputé Constitution (1869), the Radical Constitution (1888), the Imposed

Veljko Petrović’s rifle

Constitution (1901), the St. Vid’s Day Constitution (1921), the September Constitution (1931).

1839 – 1842. The first Government of Prince Mihailo Ob renović. 1841. Serbian Letters Society founded (the future Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences). 1842 – 1858. Aleksandar Karadjor djević, prince of Serbia. 1848. Hungarian Revolution. Proclaiming of Serbian Vojvodina. 1860 – 1868. The second Government of Prince Mihailo Obrenović. 1864. Matica Srpska Society, founded in Pest in 1826, transferred to Novi Sad. 1867. The Turkish troops leave the last six fortified towns in Serbia. 1868 – 1889. Milan Obre nović, king since 1882. 1876 – 1878. SerbianTurkish War. Southeast Serbia liberated (Niš –Vranje). Serbian-Bulgarian War at Slivnica. 1878. Congress of Berlin. Serbia dePrince Mihailo Obrenović clared an independent state. 1882. Serbia proclaimed a Kingdom. 1888. New Constitution of the Kingdom of Serbia introduces parliamentarism. 1889 – 1903. King Aleksandar Obrenović. 1903. May Revolution. Assassina tion of king Aleksandar and queen Draga. The Karadjordjević dynasty comes to the throne again. 1903 – 1921. Petar I Ka radjordjević, king of Serbia. Since 1918, king of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenians. 1912. The First Balkan War: Serbia, Montenegro, Bulgaria and Greece against Turkey. The remaining Petar I Karađorđević

The Paths of Memory 19 territories under Turkish rule liberated. 1913. Second Balkan War: Serbia defeats Bulgaria. 1914. World War I begins with the AustroHungarian attack on Serbia. Battles of Cer and Kolubara – first allied victories in that war. 1915. Serbian Army retreats through Albania to Greece. 1918. The Serbian Ar Commander my breaks through the Živojin Mišić Salonica Front, Bulgaria capitulates, Austro-Hungary capitulates, Germany signs armistice. 1918 – 1941. Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians (from 1929 onwards, called Yugoslavia).

National Assembly

1921 – 1934. King Aleksandar Karadjordjević assassinated in Marseille in 1934, during a state visit to France. 1941 – 1945. Occupation of Yugoslavia in World War II by Germany and neighboring countries. The communist and royalist resistance movements active in the country. 1941. The Germans bomb Belgrade and other Serbian cities (April 6, 1941) without previously announcing the King Aleksandar war. The puppet IndeKarađorđević

pendent State of Croatia declared. The Nazis imprison Patriarch Gavrilo (Dožić) in Dachau. The Germans kill several thousand people in Kragujevac and Kraljevo. 1944. Anglo-American bombing of Serbian towns from Easter to autumn. The Red Army and units of the National Liberation Army and the Partisan Units of Yugoslavia liberate Belgrade (October 20). 1945 – 1991. Second Yugoslavia. 1945. Yugoslavia renamed People’s Fe deral Republic of Yugoslavia, and then Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. 1945 – 1980. Josip Broz Tito, lifelong president of Yugoslavia. 1961. Ivo Andrić awarded the Nobel Prize for literature. 1991 – 1995. Breakdown of Yugoslavia along administrative borders, followed Ivo Andrić with a civil war. About 800,000 refugees escape to Serbia from former Yugoslav republics. 1992. The United Nations impose economic sanctions against Yugoslavia. The sanctions affect almost all aspects, including air transport, sports and culture. 1999. NATO, supporting Albanian secessionists in Kosovo and Metohija, bombs Yugoslavia (Serbia and Montenegro) for 78 days. The Kumanovo Ag reement puts Kosovo and Metohija under UN protectorate. About 300,000 Serbs leave Kosovo and Metohija. 2003. Yugoslavia changes its name to Serbia and Montenegro. 2006. Serbia, after 88 years in expanded state unions, becomes independent again. 2007. The book ”SERBIA – By Roads, Railways and Rivers” published, standing right in front of you, with which we begin our journey through space and time.

20 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers SERBIAN TOURISM

New recognition and upswing

ourism is one of the most important bran ches of Serbian economy and the direction towards it will especially develop in the upcoming times. After all turbulent political, social and economical changes at the end of the previous and beginning of this century, the rebranding and new positioning of Serbia on the international and local tourism market is in progress. According to the large-scale study Republic of Serbia Tourism Development St rategy, ordered by the Ministry of Trade, Tourism and Services (in April 2006), the possibilities are huge and very different. Experts state that the important elements of the competitiveness of Serbian tourism are the people, geostrategic position, water potential (both underground and surface waNovi Sad

ters), extraordinarily maintained potentials of mountains, forests, rural areas, monumental heritage (mostly numerous monasteries and temples), the current cultural and spiritual creativeness, festivals, celebrations, events (life style). Exact analysis point to excellent predispositions of Serbia for top-level development of urban tourism (vacations and journeys), business tourism, tourism on mountains, rivers, lakes, rural, medical, nautical tourism, tourism for persons with special needs… The development concept of Serbian tourism, which has already started growing, has three bases. First, the tourism valorization of the term Balkan. The term Balkan in the tourism sense is completely unused and unrecognizable, before all by the Balkan countries, and then further. Second, the tourism valorization of the Danube. ”None of the Danube countries use this term in their tourism slogans, although it is undoubtedly striking in global proportions. The size and importance of the Danube corridor through Serbia directs the wanted development upswing to all parts of Serbia. There is no other tourism resource in Serbia which is at the same time so nationally cohesive and globally competitive.” Third, the integral interpretation of the Serbian agglomerate of values. ”The Serbian culture, people ready for entertainment, art, literature, hospitality, passion and pride, and the union of the traditional and the modern…” It allows a specific dynamics in creating an offer of some ”tourist products”, such as short stays in Belgrade, touring through Serbia, river cruises, visiting especially attractive events and festivals… The mentioned study, within the whole tourism vision of Serbia, also expresses ”the visions of chosen tourism clusters as

The Paths of Development 21

Vojvodina: an infinite plain

24 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers THE HISTORY OF TRAVELING

Serbia in the Notebooks of Great People

any times in its history, whether luckily or unluckily, Serbia was in the center of European and international attention. Perhaps too many times, compared to its present size, economical power, population. The greatest ones wrote, sang, spoke about it, appealed for its apology. However, it is understood that around every light shadows swarm. The first chronicles and itineraries about Serbia in the late middle ages remain from writers who went to the so-called crusades with warriors. From their records, we know that not all of them came in peace. That is why for some, this was the last stop of their journey. When messengers announced that the Turkish sultan Murat I was killed in the Battle of Kosovo in 1389, the French king Charles VI ordered ”the Paris Christian temples to victoriously ring their bells and a ceremonial service to be held in the Notre Dam”. This beautiful story was written by many, from abbot Saint-Denis in the XIV century, to the French writer Milena Noković at the end of the XX century. Decades later, when the Turks continued their conquering towards middle Europe, Belgrade was, in the highest instances, almost officially declared the ”front wall of Christianity” (”ante mura les christianitatis”) and the ”the bastion of Christianity”. The famous poet Ludovico Ariosto dedicated one chapter of his renowned poem Furious Orlando to the heroic defense of Belgrade. (More than two centuries later, the Italian composer Steven Storas relived a similar subject in the opera Seize of Belgrade, first set in the London Royal Drury Lane Theater, then in New York and Dublin.) After the final fall of Serbia into Turkish slavery, when the Serbian nation stepped into its three and a half century long ”frozen time”, different travelers visited these parts. Diplomats, merchants, explorers,

spies, adventurers, servants. ”They all had very unclear, often completely wrong concepts about the delimitation of ethnic groups in the Balkans and hardly knew the borders and names of geographical and administrative regions”, wrote Zdenko Levental, who collected and processed British itineraries through ”our parts” from mid-XV to the beginning of the XIX century. Among those travelers, John Lock and Edmond Spencer also passed through enslaved Serbian lands, or along their borders! Unfortunately, these two great spirits did not have time or a chance to leave some records about Serbia. What did the others note? ”Someone will say to me: what kind of history of those times are you dreaming about, when there are no events, no movements”, wrote Jovan Ristić, who collected more than thirty itineraries from that period. ”Unfortunately, it is true! There is no history, but there is Serbian destiny, which we must also know just as we must know history.” Whatever may be, from that period of darkness, a curious reader has at its disposal the itineraries of William Way, Richard Gilford, Henry Ostel, Henry Cavendish and Fox, Fines Morrison, Sir Thomas Burberry, Walter Pope, Edward Brown, Paul Rico, George Weiler, Francis Vernon, Sir William Hasey, Simon Clement, Richard Pockock, Richard Bright, George Thomas Cappel… From the slavery, from the ”frozen times”, Serbia enters history and geography again at the beginning of the XIX century. It seems that Emil Cioran was right: ”Time, eventually, runs for the benefit of the enslaved nations, which, gathering strength and piling up precious ideals, live in hope, in the future.” Europe of the romanticism époque and Serbia at the beginning of its great liberation efforts meet and reveal each other with great

Itinerary Writing 25 Avala: Monument to the Unknown Hero

30 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers THE SACRAL AND SYMBOLIC GEOGRAPHY OF SERBIA

A Journey through the Temple

upporters of symbolic geography think of a country as a holly text, written by using special signs. For them, a space is not only a natural and geographical fact, but in it they also see sacral-mythical categories introduced into the material earthly world. According to the sacral-geographical and geopolitical symbolism, the Serbian space is in the sign of land, tellurocracy and ”earth water” (river and lake civilization). In a harmonized synthesis, it unifies in itself different forms and forces existing within tellurocracy. Spiritually contemplated and symbolically described, the space of the Serbian motherland is ”vertically”, in the south-north direction, definitely determined with two holy mountains. Mt. Athos in the south and Fruška Gora in the north – one on the coast of the central world sea, the other an island in the sea that flowed away in a paradise river – have an ancient symbolism and semantics of the mountain in such a map. In tellurocracy, ”a mountain represents spiritual reign”. The sacral centers of Tradition are in mountains. Mountains and mountain civilizations, even today, so deep in time and history, represent archai wholes, fragments of the lost, centers of dedication. Both holy mountains have a mythical plain, a sacrificial and martyr place, the field of gifts. In the south, it is Kosovo and Metohija, with its dramatic eschatological meaning, in the north it is Vojvodina, the Serbian part of the mysterious Original Plain, ”the green bottom of a sea transferred into paradise”. Just as the mountain is the symbol of sacral, a plain is the impersonation of imperial. Between holy mountains and mythical plains in the north and south, the Serbian space is significantly marked with at least three

prominent sacral-geographical elements: the hill, the forest and the river. ”The hill, a symbol of imperial reign, rises above the world level of the heaths, but does not exceed the state interests and spiritual principles impersonated in mountains”, state the sacral geographers. ”A hill is the dwelling of kings, herzegs, sovereigns, but not of the sacral. All capitals of great empires were on a hill or hills (on seven hills, according to the number of planets; on five, according to the number of pre-elements, including ether).” This is proven with many examples from the Serbian history, from the palace of Emperor Dušan in Skopje, to Lazar’s Kruševac, Karadjordjević’s Oplenac and the sovereign’s city on the confluence of the Sava into the Danube. The sacral-geographical symbol of the forest has a similar meaning as the mountain. In tellurocracy, a forest is a mysterious ”border zone”, a place of priests, druids, hermits, sages. A place of temptations and martyrness. A place where forces of nature and forces of the spiritual touch, a place of walking through the ”labyrinth” and initiatically overcoming obstacles, finding a path through the impassable. The tree, the main element of the forest, impersonates axis mundi, the axis of the world. The forest has a very special meaning for the symbolism of the Serbian space, because the central part of that space was covered with a large ”mythical forest”, which the name of Šumadija (place of forest) reminds of today. The main rivers divide the Serbian land in the shape of a cross, forming with their living waters the god-human sign impersonating the historical destiny of the country and the people so clearly. The Danube, considered one of the four Paradise Rivers in old scripts, partially (to-

The Inner Journey 31 gether with the Sava) inscribes the main horizontal of the sacral-geographical cross on the Serbian space, and partially the eastern and western border. The vertical of the living waters cross is given by the Tisa, the Morava, the Pčinja, but also, from a wider point of view, the Kolubara, the Ibar, the Timok. However, the sacral-geographical and geometrical axis of the contemporary Serbian space is certainly the river Drina. Therefore, the Serbians have a very strong bond between the sacral-geographical and ethno-psychological, between the particular material shapes and universal spiritual principles. Most often, that bond is not formulated on a rational level, especially not on a scientific one, but its traces may be clearly followed to the depths of collective unconsciousness and heights of the mystical. Serbian spaces abandoned or lost during the course of history, permanently transferred into guardian shapes of spiritual space and spiritual time. They became a formative part of the spiritual and soul ”chest of sacraments” which the people take through new physical spaces and through all times. However, before all and above all, the Serbian land is marked by temples, all those domes and crosses pointing upwards. Serbia is, actually, a land measured with temples. It is immediately clear to a traveler in Serbia, just as it will be clear to the reader of this book. And they will understand that the journey from temple to temple turns into one great journey through the temple, a temple equalized with Serbia itself. The temples are centers around which towns are born. They ornament their squares and profiles. Sometimes they stand outside of the settlements, lonely and hidden. In some places, there are a lot of them near each other, and they consecrate those spaces, completely changing their meaning. If we would attempt to enumerate all those groups of monasteries, we would hardly finish the job, but we will at least anticipate the richness: the monasteries of Fruška Gora, Ovčar-Kablar, Rudnik, Sićevac, Morava, Lim, the Valley of Kings, Old Ras, Kosovo, Metohija, Mojsinje,

Oplenac: St. George and King Petar, mosaic

Jašunja … There are more than 40 temples only in the capital city of Belgrade. We will explain in another place of our journey that each temple carries within and impersonates a great meta-historical idea, and that the arrangement of the temples represents, before those called upon to see, a special ”secret inscription on the baptized earth”. The temples of Serbia reveal a deep bond their builders have with Heavens and earth, with nature and the surroundings, with the ”complete order of the universe”. The hand that, after a long prayer, shows a place where the temple will be raised, is a hand inspired by God. The temples in Serbia also write a long history of Serbian foundation building. Some of the most beautiful Serbian temples were built by powerful rulers, and many of them, after leaving the throne and becoming monks, spent in them their last years and days on earth. Clerical dignitaries, monks, aristocrats, ”common mortals”, also built the temples-foundations. It never meant the ”redemption of sins” since such an idea does not exist in the Serbs, but meant ”building in Heavenly Jerusalem”. As the people moved through space, the temples followed them. As époques and climates changed, the Raška architecture school grew into the Morava architecture school, the Byzantine evolved towards the European (baroque). The prayer and meaning remained the same. And, of course, that ”seed from which everything will sprout again”. 

32 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers POSTMODERNISM OF ROMANTICS

Railways of Serbia

ilan Obrenović, still prince at the time, started building the foundation of the Serbian State Railway with a silver mattock, by the bridge on the little Mokri Lug River, under today’s Mostar Loop in Belgrade. It was at the beginning of the 1880-ies. The Serbian Railway today covers all most important local traffic routs, as well as all significant international routes connecting Western Europe with Southeast Europe and the Middle East. It offers transportation services and creates a network of all main centers in Serbia, before all, the industrial ones. More than two thousand companies use its services, and several hundred thousand people directly depend on its functioning and activity.

The staff of the railroad station in Ćuprija, 1914

According to its capacities, the Serbian Railway is the largest company of its kind in the Balkans and in this part of Europe. With 197 billion Dinars worth property, it holds first place in Serbia in terms of capital value. Now it has 3.808 km of railroad at its disposal, out of which 1.196 km is electrified. The company has more than four hundred locomotives, with about 800 passenger cars and 16.288 freight cars. The first railroad in Serbia was built in 1884, from Belgrade to Niš, after many previous negotiations, resolutions and signed

The first generation of supervisors of the Belgrade-Niš railway

international conventions. However, frequent wars disturbed all attempts of serious building before 1881. Regular traffic on the Belgrade – Niš railroad was established on September 15, 1884, and the first freight car was dispatched fifteen days later from the Belgrade station. At the time, Serbia had a population of less than two million, while the capital of Belgrade had only 36.000 inhabitants. Continuation of building towards Bulgaria connected Serbia with Sofia and Constantinople in the south, and Budapest and Vienna in the north. Serbia had 1.300 km of railroad immediately before World War I. Since it was considered a safe way towards building a country of wealth, immediately after the war ended, the building of the railroad was continued. In the period between the two world wars, normal and narrow gauge railroads on 33 routes were built in Serbia, with the total length of 1.081 km. There are innumerable testimonials that great attention was paid to the building of the railway, and that, at the same time, it provoked an unseen curiosity of the public. The description of the journey of the first train composition from the capital to Niš is perfectly detailed. The hours, side stops, descriptions of food and drinks the first passengers were offered. In Niš, where most respectable guests from the country and

The Iron Paths 33 abroad were present at dinner, the food and drinks were prepared by the most famous Viennese cook of those times, Joseph Dobos, specially brought for the occasion.

SUBOTICA Senta Sombor

Kikinda Bečej

Vrbas ZRENJANIN Bačka Palanka

Šid

Today it is also possible to experience at least a little bit of that atmosphere by traveling with the museum train ”Romantics”, which is marking its twelfth anniversary of operating. It begins its season in May and ends in October, with a weekend trip to Vrnjačka Spa, to the ”Župa Grape Harvest”. There are 28 one-day excursions during a season, to Sremski Karlovci, Vršac, Bela Crkva, Palić, Ljubičevo, Despotovac and Resavica, as well as four weekend trips to Vrnjačka Spa. Although this train offers an unforgettable experience, a single ticket price to any of the destinations does not exceed € 15, while the price for shorter relations is 5 to 8 €, only slightly higher than the prices in regular traffic. Of course, all usual discounts for older

Vršac

n Du

”Romantics”

NOVI SAD

Srem. Mitrovica

Šabac

PANČEVO

BEOGRAD

Sava

Bela Crkva av Dun

SMEDEREVO POŽAREVAC

Loznica Valjevo

Prahovo

Negotin

Bor Bajina Bašta Šarganska osmica

KRAGUJEVAC Zaječar UŽICE

ČAČAK KRALJEVO KRUŠEVAC NIŠ Prokuplje

Bela Palanka

Kuršumlija

KOSOVSKA MITROVICA

PRIŠTINA PEĆ

Pirot

Dimitrovgrad

LESKOVAC Podujevo Vladičin Han VRANJE

PRIZREN

persons, children and invalids also apply for this train. The trips are organized in such a way that enables the passengers to get to know many cultural-historical monuments, natural beauties and customs. It is possible to hire the train ”Romantics” for all destinations, so the price for the journey to the past, from Belgrade to Sremski Karlovci, is around 1.000 €.

”BeoRomantics” For lovers of old trains, in the mood for shorter relations and getting to know the part of Belgrade along the rivers, riding with the old composition ”BeoRomantics” is organized. Starting from the first day of June, that train starts every Saturday and Sunday, in the morning and in the afternoon, from the Main Train Station. The passengers can see the Belgrade harbor, Kalemegdan, Lower Town to Danube-Station and then the journey continues along the Sava to Topčider, where passengers can see the ”Blue Train”.

36 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers MOUNTAINS OF SERBIA

Above the Clouds

ike the tender face of a young girl, like the wrinkled face of an old man, dangerous and gentle, scarred with waters, sometimes desolate and sorrowful, sometimes forested and mystical, always shrouded in clouds the wind chases along the invisible paths of the sky, Serbian mountains rise above the country. Mountains, like an open callous forehand, both gentle and cruel. They deserve their names. We can only imagine how much sufferings the mountains Jadovnik (suffering), Čemernik (sorrow) and Čemernica (sorrow) gave people, how much joy the mountains Zlatar (golden place) and Zlatibor (golden pine tree) gave people to be given such a name. The mountain can be Stara /Old/ (but not tired), Suva /Dry/ (but not barren), Besna Kobila (Raging Mare) as if running with a foam of snow on its peaks. Mountains of intact purity and extraordinary beauty only in some places gave their slopes to towns and villages, and only rare

Kopaonik

among them gave away their heaths, bends and peaks for resting, for joy to the curious eye, for the challenges of skiing, alpinism, exploring or just walking in peace and getting closer to nature. Four of five protected national parks in Serbia are on mountains (Fruška Gora, Tara, Kopaonik, Šar Planina), and the fifth one is surrounded by mountains creating an inseparable part of it (Djerdap).

Kopaonik The largest mountain massif in Serbia. It spreads from the northwest towards the southeast, about 80 km long. The highest part of Kopaonik is a spacious plateau Ravni Kopaonik, with Suvo Rudište rising around it, where the highest peak of the mountain is – Pančićev Vrh /Pančić’s Peak/ (2.017 m). Kopaonik has a subalpine climate. With almost 200 sunny days a year, Kopaonik is the ”mountain of sun”. The colder and

The Paths of Mountains 37

Zlatibor

heavier air moves along the surrounding valleys and basins, so winter temperatures are not too low. Snow falls from the end of November and stays until May, in average 159 days a year. Kopaonik (the place of digging) was named after the mineral resources dug here from ancient times. In 1981, this mountain became a national park, covering an area of 11.810 hectares. It is one of the most important centers of endemic flora in Serbia. Significant endemic species and relicts of Kopaonik are the Kopaonik housekeeper (Sempervivum Copaonicensis), Kopaonik violet (Viola Copanicensis), Pančić’s bittercress, Serbian linum, Pančić’s festuca, Edelweiss… The rare and endangered animal species deserve special attention: golden eagle, gray falcon, horned owl, mountain lark, red crossbill, gray dormouse and wildcat. The Kopaonik mountain is especially attractive because of the recognizable landscapes with thick spruce fir and fir tree forests and combined beech and oak forests. From Kopaonik, the view spreads up to Šar Planina, Komovo and Stara Planina.

It offers perfect conditions for an active vacation all year round and represents the largest and most famous Serbian ski center. There is a large tourist center on Ravni Kopaonik, with large accommodation capacities, a system of ski tracks and cableways. The other tourist center is by the village of Brzeće, on the eastern slope of Kopaonik. The ski terrains are at the altitude ranging from 1.650 to 2.017 m and belong to first category terrains. The tourist center has a network of 22 cableways, linked into a unique system, as well as 4 lifts for children. The total length of the cableways is 17.222 meters, while the length of the ski tracks is 44 km. The guests can enjoy a 20 km track for Nordic skiing, while 3,5 and 10 km tracks are arranged and marked at the Crvena Bara location. There are also hiking excursions organized to the spring of Metodja and Semeteg Lake. Because of its great scatterness and relief, Kopaonik offers ideal conditions for paragliding.

Zlatibor The spacious wavy Zlatibor plateau is located in the southwest part of Serbia, at

42 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers RIVERS OF SERBIA

The Bloodstream of the Earth

Tisa

is the catfish, which can reach the length of 3,5 ne poetic verse states that rivers are the m and weigh up to 200 kg! bloodstream of the earth. It is also said that their banks are the most faithful guardians of There are 79 kinds of fish living in the Danthe chronicle recording everything people have ube and its affluents. The most numerous is the longed for in time, building, destroying and then carp family, with as much as 50 types. Very valurebuilding again. Without a real river, there is no able migratory sea fish like the sturgeon, beluga, real bridge, without a navigable river there are Danube herring and pastruga often appear in no harbors, ports and growing cities, no people this river. Beluga, from which very precious and from all sides, nor the most various ideas and famous caviar was produced, used to be fished in views, nor competitions. the Danube stream through the Djerdap Gorge. Ludaško jez. In this matter, SUBOTICAPalićko Using the many water streams for feeding jez. Serbia is also an fishponds enables controlled breeding of fish. intersection of These fishponds are also used as hatcheries for roads important breeding spawn, used for enriching the rivers and lakes fund. for Europe (the Du NOVI na Danube), and imAll rivers in Serbia offer enormous posv SAD portant for the Balsibilities for many kinds of sports, from Sa kans (the Sava). recreational and common ones, to the va Belocrkvanska jezera Savska jez. very specific ones played by only a few The rivers Đerdapsko Ada Ciganlija jez. sportsmen, excellently of Serbia belong to Dun BEOGRAD va a av S Srebrno jez. trained and prepared. three drainage Pe Zvorničko k jez. One of those extreme basins: Black Sea, Drin a sports is jopping, Aegean Sea and Mo Borsko ra Adriatic Sea. From jumping from cliffs and va jez. Perućac Gružansko jez. jez. the slow, navibridges, from great Z Grošničko Međuvršje apa dn jez. a jez. Zaovinsko gable plains rivers, to heights, but also climbing Mo jez. rav Bovansko a jez. the fast and clear up the cliffs without the Ju Radoinjsko žn Potpeč jez. a jez. Zlatarsko mountain ones, it is usual alpinist equipJezero jez. Zlatari NIŠ an image of a river ment (free climbnetwork of silence, saluing). It is not Zavojsko Sjeničko jez. jez. Batlavsko brity, feeling of transience, possible to list all jez. Gazivodsko but also fulfillment with life the kayak terrains jez. Vlasinsko and wealth. on wild waters and jez. PRIŠTINA Radonjičko rowing terrains on slow, The rivers are a special ecojez. Gračaničko Lisinsko jez. jez. wide rivers of Vojvodina system with a variety of flora and and its channels. fauna. Fish are undoubtedly most interesting. There is shrimp and clam Among the sports attractive for fishing on a small number of river modern tourists, we will mention rafting with streams. About 110 kinds of fish are ordinary boats and rafting with rubber boats on found. The fast mountain rivers mostly have the Drina, Lim, Uvac and Ibar. trout, chub and barbell. The lower streams mostly have catfish, carp, pike, sterlet, perch, The Danube, a powerful European river, roach, tench… The largest fish in Serbian rivers enters Serbia on its 1433rd km and flows through Čik

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The Danube in Zemun

56 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers SERBIAN SPA TOURISM

Remedies and Gifts

ccording to detailed geological investigation, Serbia lies on a big lake of thermo mineral water. This is the scientific explanation of the fact that there is more than 1,000 springs of cold and warm mineral water, as well as a great resource of natural mineral gas and mud bath. On 53 localities in the area of present Serbia, the ancient Romans have enjoyed and healed themselves. Today, there are 160 thermo mineral springs, which are arranged, and being used, and they have 40 spas, which are the first class part of Serbian tourist economy. ”Spa therapies are adapted to treatment of a wide range of medical illness. You can get health in many ways: from a glass, having baths or inhaling air.” Serbia is one of the richest countries in Europe. The National Parliament of the Kingdom of Serbia adopted the Law of spas, mineral and warm springs, on June 2nd 1914, signed by

King Petar I Karađorđević. Spas became a public property and there was a detailed regulation about running a health resource for the ”wellbeing of the people and of the country”. One does not visit a spa only to get the remedy, in urgent situations. If you feel tired, exhausted, or you just want to get some peace and quiet, and to renovate your spirit and you strength, Serbian spas are just the place for you. ”Spas have been developing as arranged oasis of greenery and silence. They are usually settled in cultivated valleys and hillsides, surrounded by woods, pastures and orchards. Their natural paysage has very nicely arranged parks and fancy walks, as well. Mod-

Vrnjačka Spa

Ribarska Spa

ern objects, sports terrains and swimming pools are the part of the health and tourist contents of spas,” informs us the Tourist Organization of Serbia. Spas are the place of sports preparations and congresses. Spa’s vicinities are rich in Serbian medieval inheritance, as well as monuments of antique inheritance. Besides that, there are various spa events of traditional and modern art and a rich offer of national cuisine. During your travel through our guide and through Serbia, you shall visit all important Serbian spas and you shall take some time in them, or you shall just pass them. We shall mention only a few of them (but, of course, we could have made another choice). Vrnjačka Spa (Vrnjačka Banja), the unofficial ”queen of Serbian spa tourism”, lying in the central part of Serbia, near Kraljevo, 200 kilometers south of Belgrade. It has temperate warm summers (average temperature of 20°C) and temperate cold winters (average temperature of +0.8°C). It is

The Paths of Health 57

surrounded by mountains, so it is protected from wind for 170 days. It was a very important place for treatment, since the ancient times to the present day. It has seven mineral springs. Therapy is organized in the Special hospital for treatment and rehabilitation of digestion system and diabetes ”Vrnjačka Banja”, with the most modern medical equipment. This is the place for treatment of gallbladder, pancreas, digestive organs diseases… Mineral water ”Vrnjci”, from this resort, is bottled for decades and it is one of the best water in Serbian market. Soko Spa (Sokobanja) is one of the most important centers of Serbian Spa tourism, with a long tradition. It is settled in east Serbia, on 400 meters of height above sea level, 230 kilometers away from Belgrade. Thermo mineral springs of Soko Spa (temperatures form 28 to 45.5°C) are used for baths and inhalations. A magnificent continental climate, with a favorable atmospheric pressure and temperate rainfalls, a high concentration

62 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers COUNTRYSIDE TOURISM

Idyll is IN

he countryside was since forever the true source of energy and the foundation of Serbia. Without the countryside, a whole nation could not survive many difficult times and it would not renovate biologically. It would not feed or populate wounded cities. Until the beginning of the accelerated industrialization in the 60’s of the 20th century, Serbia was, in the true sense of the word, a peasant country. One cannot truly understand or love Serbia without understanding its countryside, the origin of its rural regions. ”We are all countryside people. The only thing which differs us Zlatar

is the order in which we have begun to forget that”, says a witty modern Serbian poet. The symbolic and practical value of the Serbian countryside for the nation’s identity and survival cannot be predicted. However, these aspects are much different at present, and in a way modern. Today, Serbia is a country of outstanding possibilities for the development of countryside tourism, which

The Paths of the Countryside 63

has been expanding in the last few years. Vacation in the countryside, in several parts of Serbia, became attractive for domestic guests as well as for foreign ones. The service became more satisfying and modern, which had only emphasized traditional values of the Serbian countryside – values that are overall ”absolutely trendy”. ”Preserved nature, fresh air with the scent of hay, flowers, pine trees and pastures, clear rivers and streams, wild flora and fauna – an ideal place for a vacation”, recommends the Tourist Organization of Serbia. ”One can enjoy the complete silence of nature and peace of the soul or be active all day long. Long walks through fairy tale like village milieu are an unforgettable experience for the young, the old, and for children of all ages. Horse riding, climbing, picking flowers and medicinal herbs, swimming in a river or a lake, participating in meal cooking, farm or field works with the hosts, training old crafts, outdoor parties with the national dining table, speeches and toasts, the beauty of the country life style – these are all very attractive and they remain in one’s memory.” Cheese, kajmak (a dairy dish), milk, gibanica (dish made of cheese and strips of dough), polenta, cicvara (dish made of flour, eggs, butter and cheese), popara (dish made of stale bread and cheese or kajmak), tarana (dough

pellets), stuffed paprika, beans, cabbage, pitas (Serbian pies: gužvara – a type of cheese pastry, pumpkin pie, pita made with green vegetables), old forgotten meals made of what is so accessible to us in the nature, barbecued meat, grilled meat or from a special pan, made right in front of you, chowders and soups without spices, brandy (you can participate in its making), wine from small village cellars...

66 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers GATES OF NATURE

More than sports

unting grounds in Serbia are one of the best and well known in Europe. They are events of many first class trophies, world and European champions; hunting tourism is a very specific sort of tourism, which requires strict rules of behavior, very good organized services. Serbia has 321 hunting grounds, ruled by hunting societies, of which 24 are enclosed, with 150 hunting lodges. The Hunters’ Association of Serbia fixes game prices, and Ministry for the Protection of Natural Resources and Environment fixes the hunting calendar. Besides hunting, Serbia has great opportunities for the development of fishing tourism. These fishing grounds include rivers, lakes, and canals rich with fish. Fishing waters are divided into 25 areas, among which the most popular are high cold waters of the Zlatibor and Vlasina area, and valley waters of the Danube, Sava, Tisa and their tributaries and canals, as well as waters of the Timok region.

There are 400 organizations and clubs of fishing sport societies. There are strict rules in sport fishing, the time of closed hunting season and the time of spawn of particular fish species, tools that are allowed in fishing sports. In rivers and lakes of Serbia, there are 110 fish species, and the most interesting are catfish, carp, pike, trout and huchen. We shall mention the most interesting hunting grounds in Serbia, whose importance and wealth could not be explained in these few pages. ”Crni lug”: a hunting ground by the left bank of the River Sava, between the villages of Progar and Boljevci, 30 kilometers away from Belgrade. In the dense oak forest deer hunt, wild boar hunt and roe deer hunt are organized. ”Rit” is 20 kilometers west from Belgrade, besides the highway to Zrenjanin.

Morović hunting ground

The hunting ground is well known for pheasant hunt. There is a pheasant farm inside the hunting ground, which exports about 20,000 birds. One can also hunt roe deer and rabbits. ”Trešnja” is on Avala, 35 kilometers away from Belgrade. This hunting ground raises deer and mouflon, which can be hunted as well. Nearby is the motel ”Trešnja”, where hunters can lodge. ”Zapadno-moravsko lovište” is lying along the River Zapadna Morava, between mountain massifs of Jelica, Vujna, Bukovika and Ostrica. It is 148 kilometers away from Belgrade, and 14 from Čačak. It is of plain type, with a very good disposition of plant species. Rabbits, pheasants, gray partridges live here. Besides small game, one can hunt ducks, geese, quails, turtledoves, snipes and rock doves. Lodging for hunters is in a hunting lodge just inside the hunting ground.

Hunting and Fishing 67

”Golija” is lying on the massif of the Mountain Golija, 20 kilometers south from Ivanjica. It is in the group of high mountain hunting grounds. There are big and small game (wild boar, deer, bear, grouse, rabbit, wolf, fox, marten). The motel ”Golijska reka” is a perfect lodging. ”Južni Kučaj IV” is on the territory of Despotovac and Paraćin, 150 southeast from Belgrade. The biggest part of it is 700-1,000 meters of height above sea level. The highest peak is Beljanica (1,339 meters). One can hunt European deer, deer, wild boar and rabbit. Some of the protected species in this hunting ground are foxes, wildcats, otter, rock doves, peregrine falcons, imperial eagle and golden eagle. There are 4 big hunting lodges inside the hunting ground in which one can lodge during the whole year. ”Hrastovača” is northeast from Požare vac, surrounded by the Danube, Mlava and Dunavac canal. Dense vegetation enables the

72 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers CASTLES AND FARMS OF VOJVODINA

Nobility and Loneliness

onely castles, summerhouses, fortresses, vineyard households, are a special interest of the immense plain of Vojvodina. Built in the last 300 years, they preserved all characteristics of the styles to which they belong to, especially of those of the 18th, 19th and 20th century, from Baroque to Secession. Today, they remain in urban areas, which expanded as the time passed, and they are surrounded by parks, forming a whole. Their owners are well known, but their architects and builders are not. Of 45 castles, which are protected by law, 4 of them are considered to be cultural property of exquisite importance. The castle of the Dunđerski family in Čelarevo, the Patriarch’s Palace and ”Ilion”, the Bishop’s Palace (today, it is a museum), both in Sremski Karlovci, and the Bishop’s Palace in Vršac. From city palaces to smaller castles, which awake one’s curiosity with their exterior, over warm, vast and quiet fortresses, to vineyard households, dignified and lonely, as if they do not need anything else but themselves we have a wide range which is uncovering not only wealth, position and influence, but a special relation with the beautiful and the permanent.

All these houses, and the estates they include, were built and obtained by aristocracy, along with the war merits, or they were bought (with high aristocratic taxes) by rich tradesmen, craftsmen, diplomats and by the nouveaux riches. The Patriarch’s Palace in Sremski Karlovci was built between 1892 and 1895, after the project of Vladimir Nikolić. It is a representative city palace with characteristics of historicist architecture, but with Renaissance and Baroque elements as well. The Palace is in the main city square and it was built thanks to patriarch Georgije Branković, on the foundation of the former Pasha’s Palace, the first residence of the head of the Serbian Orthodox Church after moving from Peć to Sremski Karlovci. The Palace’s complex is surrounded by high ramparts; it has a spacious park with the building of the Old Court. The Bishop’s Palace ”Ilion” is another palace in Sremski Karlovci, which keeps the Kupinovo Castle

The Paths of Plains 73 Bishop’s Palace, Vršac

76 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers FEASTS AND RITUALS

Bread in Abundance, Up to the Sky

read has the unavoidable symbolic and ritual place in all traditions, from the Far East to the native American traditions, including ancient Serbian religion. It is the symbol of fertility, abundance, renaissance and fertile soil. The golden bread grains represent ”the descendants of the shinning sun and the virginal earth”. The symbolic analogies of bread are gold, fire, soul, sacrifice, gift, change, incarnation, unity. In Christianity, bread is a sacrament with a central mystical characteristic. It is the symbol of essential, religious food and life beyond time, the visible manifestation of the soul, the mystical body of Christ, reminding the people of their homeland in heaven. Bread is life giving. It is the providence of God. Berdjajev says the symbol of bread represents the unity of soul and body and the soulless world is in demonic hands of money, Satan secrets and kingdom of fiction. Christ himself is the bread of life. Our daily bread is mentioned in the Lord’s Prayer (the central Christian prayer); the Liturgy speaks about the holy bread of eternal life. Bread is always present in most im-

portant Christian rituals and feasts (Christmas, slava, wedding...). Bread, with wine and salt, or sometimes with honey, turns every meal into a ritual. A faraway guest is welcomed with bread. It also induces mercy to the powers of nature. Bread and salt are the signs of friendship, chastity and unity. We say for fresh-baked bread: ”It is fine like soul.” For a gentle and noble man, we say: ”He is as good as bread.” For Serbs, among many gifts of earth, bread is the most important one. Bread is the synonym of survival. That is why in Pećinci, 42 kilometers from Belgrade, the first Serbian and the second world’s Bread Museum is located. Slobodan Jeremić Jeremija, as a family museum, founded it in 1995. Visiting this family Bread Museum would give you more than a simple visit. Charming hosts most kindly welcome every visitor, as if they are visiting their own home. After all, the museum is a part of the Jeremić family household, in which they live in. Over more than 30 years, Jeremija drifts through villages and faraway places in Serbia, painting and collecting, in order to

The Paths of Earth 77 preserve from oblivion, tools for tilling the soil and for baking bread. The museum now preserves more than two thousand objects, divided into four collections. The museum tour, or (as the residents say) the earth path, ”bread in abundance, up to the sky”, starts with the collection dedicated to soil tilling. There are tools from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. Then, one can see the collection of objects for wheat and corn processing, as well as tools for baking bread. There are old husker machines, a milling machine, a binder machine more than 80 years old for wheat mowing and sheaving, a reconstructed neolith trashing machine and a hand-trashing machine brought from Šerbanovci. One can see how a kernel of wheat was processed into flour in an authentic millstone in the Neolithic period, in order to show the working of a mill wheel. In the archaeological collection, besides authentic objects, one can see the reconstructions of clay breads, which were dug into the ground, as sacrifices, so that the bearing would be better. This collection includes objects for baking bread with a reconstructed household from the Neolithic period and a stove for baking bread.

The central part of the museum is consisted of a collection of 96 ritual breads divided into groups: breads for the newborns, Christmas breads, Easter breads, breads for slavas, wedding breads, harvest breads, breads for liturgies and breads for the deceased. Besides all this, the museum pre serves pictures of Jeremija from the cycle called Earth, with authentic motifs from the Serbian village, which have both the artistic and ethnographic value. In the dinning room for slavas in the Museum, there are pictures from the cycle Bread and Heavenly Serbia, inspired by Serbian medieval painting. Objects of this museum are not conservated – the visitor is allowed to take them and examine them, and all machines work. The museum is enlarged all the time, new objects and new documentation is always being collected. This is the place where you can familiarize with the complete process of baking bread. However, through these stories about bread you can learn more about Serbian tradition and identity. ”Whole life is revealed between two breads: the bread for the newborn and the bread for the deceased.” 

78 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers FROM ”DIVINE NECTARS” TO ”ROYAL ART”

About Wine and Other Truths

lthough if Serbia is the place of making the best brandy in the world, as well as good beer, the connection of Serbia and its wines is a very special one. According to findings of the Bronze Age (200 years BC) and the Iron Age (400 years BC), even then, on the area of present Serbia, there were dishes for preserving and drinking wine. A large number of amphoras from Sirmium, a Roman town in Srem, in the place of the present Sremska Mitrovica, and from other antique localities in Serbia, witness the regular and the organized wine deliveries. The Roman Empreror Domitian (69-96 AD) forbade all winegrowers, except Italic to grow quality vine, so that good wine could only be delivered to our regions at the time. The Emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus (276-282), the famous conqueror of Barbarians and other usurpers, born on a village property near Sirmium, in 232, canceled that kind of monopoly. Probus himself planted quality vine on the hillside of Fruška Gora (Alma Monsa), which is considered the beginning of winegrowing in Serbia. From the very beginning, winegrowing in Serbia was an imperial and royal art. During more than 1000 years we can follow that history, especially from the beginning of the Serbian state from the 8th and the 9th century, or during the reign of the Nemanjić dynasty, from the 11th until the 14th century, the golden age of medieval Serbia. The chronicles report: ”all Serbian kings especially cherished the tradition of winegrowing”. The most eminent Serbian leaders advanced wine growing and wine production. The Document of Stefan the FirstCrowned, as well as the Law of the Emperor Dušan the Great issue the importance of wine production and its quality. The most powerful leader of medieval Serbia, Dušan the Great,

had, near Prizren, big and first-class vineyards, as well as an amazing court wine cellar. The fact, which even today sounds spectacular, says that wine from Dušan’s vineyards and cellars in Velika Hoča ”was delivered by a 25 kilometer wine supply system to the Emperor’s cellars in the capital of Prizen!” More than 700 sorts of wine are produced in Serbia. They are divided by color (white, rosé and red), by the sugar quantity (dry, half dry, half sweet and sweet), by its quality (high quality wine with geographical origin, quality wine with geographical origin, table wine with geographical origin and table wine). All regular wines in Serbia have a protected geographical origin. High quality red wine in Serbia is usually (as it is said in wine guides and Serbian wine catalogues) made of the sort Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamé, Burgundy, Merlot, Pinot Noir (all of French origin), as well as of native sorts Vranac and Prokupac.

The Paths of Wine 79

VINEYARD ARES AND VINEYARDS OF SERBIA

VINEYARD AREAS Subotica and Horgoš Srem Banat Šumadija and Velika Morava Pocerje Timok Nišava and Južna Morava Zapadna Morava Metohia

90 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers ETHNO-CULTURAL AND TOURIST EVENTS

Games and Rituals

erbia is the place of many different ethno-cultural and tourist events during the whole year in all areas. Many specialized publications are made to list them, classify them and present the calendar of their realization. These events are the place of meetings and of particular folk rituals. They are the mirror of people’s way of living. They show us their cuisine, costumes, tastes, type of humor, imagination, toasts and seductions, the spirit of the game and the spirit of competition. The name of the event is only a motive for these gatherings. Everything else is building around it and behind it. All Serbian vineyards and wine cities have their wine ceremonies of a characteristic name (in Vršac – ”Wine, women and tambouritzas”). They are often a motive for gourmand skills. ”Pršutijada” in Zlatibor in the middle of January; ”Slaninijada” in Kačarevo and ”Kobasicijada” in Turija are in February; Gourmand gathering in the Belgrade ”Intercontinental” hotel is in April; in May the Festival of pork sausage and sausages in Bački Petrovac, in July are competitions in cooking fish soup on Ludoško Lake and ”Golubački kotlić”; ”Dani azanjske pogače” and ”Porečki kotlić” in Donji Milanovac are in August; the international ”Roštiljijada” of Leskovac, ”Patlidžanijada” in Neradin, ”Pasuljijada” in Kraljevo, ”Dani proje” in Rača, ”Kupusijada” in Mrčajevci – are all in September... In different parts of Serbia, seasonal events are taking place such as days of sour cherry, plum, raspberry,

apple, flowers (roses, lilacs, carnations, lilies), mushrooms, medicinal herbs, honey... There are many events which are organized for hunting and fishing as well as for knight games. There are also many ”weird” events, such as the World Championship in rolling Easter eggs in Mokrin (April), the Brandy festival in Kovilj ”Parastos dudu” (end of June), goose fight in Banat... One of the newest weird events is ”Mud(r)ijada” in Savinac near Gornji Milanovac (September): competition in making meals of sex glands, which have many recognizable names in Serbian language, but metaphoric meanings as well. (The word ”muda” in Serbian does represent sex glands with animals but it also has a methaphoric meaning. We can compare that with the English word ”balls”, representing ”courage” /e.g. I don’t have the balls to do it./ So when, somebody ”does not have the balls” he ”does not have courage”. The same thing is in Serbian language.) We recommend you to explore yourself, but we shall single out several characteristic and ambiguous events. erbian Trumpet Festival S of Dragačevo The gathering of trumpet players in a small town of Guča, west from Čačak, is not only a music event but also a unique ethno festival. It is

Haymaking at Rajac

taking place in the end of August, every year, for half of a century, lasting for seven days. It attracts about half a million tourists with its spectacular music, and every tenth visitor is a foreigner. There are guests from Slovenia, France, Britain, Ireland, Holland, America, Russia, and Italy... Among them are many well-known musicians, politicians, sportsmen, actors, as well as many other tourists, which come to Serbia and to Guča especially for this first class ”happening”. The powerful sound which makes us move, a lot of fire and dancing, emotion and passion, days and nights with no sleep and rest, first class food and drinks after which Serbia is famous for – Guča became a unique event on the ethno cultural map of Europe and one of the best brands of present Serbia. Zoran Bogavac, in his book ”The Tin Soul of Serbia” called Guča ”the biggest folk carnival of Serbian jazz”. The poet, Branko V. Radičević, one of the creators of this event, in the first years of the festival wrote the following: ”This is a miracle, this everlasting campaign which never ends…” After the regional pre-competitions, in a very severe competition, only the best come to Guča. ”Guča is what you live for”, ”Guča

Intersections 91

is more than music”. There were books written about it, documentaries and movies were made about it, national strategies were created. The trumpet itself has a big significance in the Serbian history. It called in for war, encouraged soldiers, announced death or victory; it was with the people in many occasions. It is very difficult to imagine weddings, slavas, gatherings, fairs, celebrations and sad events without a trumpet. Maybe it is the right time for you to go under the mountain Jelica in the end of August and find yourself in Dragačevo, in Guča, if you have never done it. ”Haymaking at Rajac” Old travelers called this mountain in western Serbia, near Ljig and Suvobor, a heaven on earth. That is how it got its name – Rajac. (”raj” in Serbian means ”heaven”).Every year, in mid July, around St. Peter’s Day, for more than one century, it is the place of ”Haymaking at Rajac”, one of the most beautiful tourist events of ethnographic character in Serbia. The main part of the program is the old folk ritual mass harvest, when the whole village goes to help one head of a household

96 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers SOUNDS OF THE OLD COUNTRY

Vibrations and Tempers

here are countries whose essence can only be expressed by music. Think about it – you shall remember at least two of them. Even if we think that the essence of Serbia is a word, music is its very important element. You can learn a lot about Serbia through music and you can get very far on your voyage. Music is one of the most imaginative ways to travel through Serbia. An important characteristic of Serbian music are religious and choir music, especially those that have arisen as a union between the Christian and the ethno Balkan inheritance. Composers who have expressed these inheritances in their work – as once did Mokranjac and Stanković, and today Hristić and Božić – have always been the leaders of Serbian music. One shall meet with music and song everywhere in Serbia, in every segment of life or death. Music is in work and in war; in joy and in grieve, in birth and

in death, when you go away for a long time or when you come back from far away.

Instruments Almost every known instrument and musical genre is represented in Serbia. People still play on ancient instruments as gusle (a Balkan musical instrument), bagpipe, double flute, and street organ. Trumpets mark central and southern parts of Serbia, flutes and accordions mark Šumadija, Vojvodina is well known for the tambouritza. However, all these instruments are played all over the country, but the most important of them all are the violin and the clarinet. Given that every bigger town in Serbia has its jazz festival, bigger or smaller, summer or winter, you can hear instruments such as the saxophone, the

The Paths of Music 97 trombone, the tube, all over Serbia. Some tourist organizations have arrangements called Musical voyage: ”Kovačica – church organ; Melenci – tambouritza in a health resort; Subotica – cymbals and violins; Sombor – children’s choir Amadeus; Bački Petrovac – Slovakian dances...”

Instrument Makers You cannot have good music without good instruments made by real instrument makers. In Vojvodina, there were skilled and very important instrument makers since the ancient times, especially makers of tambouritzas ”of the Vojvodina system”. ”What would this plain do without tambouritza players, teams, sleighs and songs?” Several workshops provide players with top quality instruments. In one workshop in Kikinda, tambouritzas of different size and shape are made out of wood, dried for at least ten years. Its neck and body are made of Bosnian maple, or cherry, walnut, pear or plum. Frets are made of Brazilian rose tree, and federations out of mother-of-pearl. The

upper board (”glasnjača”) is made of juniper tree and an intarsia tulip. The neck is made out of one piece of wood, as well as a type of tambouritza called ”bisernica”. ”Without good tambouritza master player, good food and drink, beautiful but sonorous voices, there is no real tambouritza festival in Vojvodina style!” Flute makers are very highly estimated in Šumadija. Every maker, as well as every player, has his secret. The greatest flute player, Bora Dugić, a math professor, has his own instrument makers, and some of them are his own work. His flute collection is enormous, and he is usually changing them several times during one performance.

Events In every bigger town in Serbia, you have rich clubbing and concert events following the newest trend of pop music. Serbia is usually the place of gathering of music fans from the whole region, meeting at concerts in Belgrade or Novi Sad in order to listen to some of the world wide known music and pop stars.

100 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers MEDIEVAL FORTRESSES

Impregnable Monuments

hese fine lonely monuments, which are not threatening at all, have been the places of diplomatic and political leaders’ secrets for centuries. They are silent, mysterious but awake, and our sight unfolds so far, along those rivers and valleys, and along thin, snakelike imperial roads for which they were built in the first place. They emerge above the growing cities, and they are surrounding them as obedient soldiers. Above these red roofs are power line poles, threatening as knights’ spears, but these monuments remain resistible for many centuries. The ones on the cliffs are rising as chamois, alone, resisting another leap; the ones in the plain, firm and dark, remain immobile. Among them is Ras, near Novi Pazar, on Gradina, the first Serbian capital, between myth and reality, between clouds, high in the sky. It is mentioned in the documents of the Byzantine Emperor Constantine Porfirogenit. Lying on the top of the mountain with five de-

fensive towers and several warehouses, it was not just a fortress but it consisted of several smaller and bigger fortificati ons with villages, churches, monasteries, courts and the first Serbian mint, from the beginning of the 13th century. There are 37 more fortresses in Serbia, which are so well preserved that we can get the impression that they have just been built right in front of us. One of the most beautiful of them is Golu bac, a medieval fortress at the entrance of Đerdap, standing stretched, as if preparing to jump. A little further is Ram (12th century),

The Fortress of Smederevo

Road Watchmen 101 Despot Stefan’s Castle, Belgrade (model)

then Karataš in Kladovo (Roman fortification Dijana). Zvečan (11th century) is near Kosovska Mitrovica. Maglič, 25 kilometers away from Kraljevo, on the way to Raška, from the 13th century, is dominating the milieu, standing on a plateau on a high mountain range, well preserved, with seven massive towers and a donjon tower of stonewalls, 2 meters thick. The well preserved Town Palace still remains on Maglič. The Užice fortress from the 13th century is similar to Maglič. It stands on a high mountain range above the Đetinja, which still inspires awe, after all the time passed. It is impossible to tell how old is the town of Soko, on the cliff above the gorge of the River Moravica, near Sokobanja. Višegrad, near Prizren, above the entrance into the canyon of the River Bistrica is the home of the monastery complex St. Archangel. Veliki Petrič, near Gornje Nerodimlje, preserved the castle of Serbian kings in Nerodimlje, along

with Mali Petrič, on the inaccessible hill above the Rivers Mala and Velika. Srebrnica, from the 14th century, is on the mountain Rudnik, near the village Stragari, with a donjon tower, 10 meters high. Džurovo is near Nova Varoš, where a long time ago was the place of the road control. Jelač, near Novi Pazar, was mentioned back in the 13th century. Koznik near Brus, on the mountain Željin, was one of the bases of King Dragutin. Marko’s Kale is settled above Vranje, well protected, like in an eagle’s nest. Across Europe, the most popular Serbian medieval fortified town was Novo Brdo, a mining center where gold and silver were produced, with the annual income of 200 thousand ducats! A French author Bertradon de la Brocquiere documented this during his voyage through Despot Đurđe Branković’s estates. It was located in such manner that it was hard to conquer it and it resisted conquerors

104 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers MONUMENTS TO THE FALLEN ONES

The Secret of the Stone Smile

raveling through Serbia, especially in the west and southwest, you can see these monuments by the open road, on crossroads, on the edges of villages, or far away from ”the last households” in the village. They exist since the ancient times, and from the middle of the 20th century, probably under the influence of literature, they are called roadside monuments. These stone mo numents, so silent but telling so much, are out of the cemetery and they usually represent a symbolic grave. Close relatives, to those who die far away from home, under unknown circumstances, so that his grave is unknown as well, usually raise them. ”Heroic characters are sculptured on these monuments, in the same way grotesque, with a hidden smile, in rich color. They portray soldiers, peasants, rebels, voyagers. These monuments usually have epitaphs about the deceased for whom it was built in the first place, often very witty ones. (If you are interested in that, in Serbian town’s libraries you can find anthologies of these epitaphs, aphorisms and ”grave poetry”.) These stone books keep facts and memories about the deceased killed in the unknown. They immortalize

his name, personal facts, and sometimes the circumstances under which he gave his life away; they share the secret of his departure with the well-intentioned traveler. Roadside monuments are the connection between the worlds of the living with the world of the dead. Besides that, there are also ”monuments above empty graves”, similar to roadside monuments. They are placed right on the spot where someone was killed, usually in a car crash, and then buried in the usual place, inside the cemetery, far away from where the accident took place. This interesting phenomenon has various ethnologic, religious and mystical interpretations. The most probable interpretation, closest to the people’s sensitivity: ”It is believed that the deceased should be buried in the place where he got killed, in order not to be seen in a passenger’s vision. His soul should find silence, and should not wander beside the road because the body was not buried where it deceased.” This custom of placing ”monuments above the empty grave” is spread in all Serbian regions, even out of Serbia. Since the ancient times, it is present with many nations and many cultures. The ancient Slavs built ”graves in which the deceased were not buried”. This custom was spread in the medieval times. According to investigations, it spread

Roadside monuments 105 in Serbia in the 19th century, in the time of uprisings and wars of liberations, stirs, refuges, when roads were places of ”life, birth and death”. Some of these monuments are connected with the belief about the deceased killed by violent death (”suicide, drowning, killed by lightening, tore apart by wild animals, and women deceased during labor”). Shape, ways of decorating and textual messages de pend on the time and place of building the monument, cus tomer’s demand and stonecutter’s possibilities. The mower on the monuments is dressed in summer peasant costume with a sickle in his hand, the coachman has a coat and a whip, the dressmaker has scissors and other sewing

equipment. Monuments of wellknown people are marked with canes, keys, seals, pipes. On monuments dedicated to women, there are spinning wheels and spindles, sewing machines, parasols. Girls had flowers engraved on their monuments, and pupils had reading books and writing kits. Anyway, roadside monuments represent an important part of the cultural inheritance. Do not be afraid of them. Stop and look. Try to reveal the secret of this stylized stone. Think about the person and the event this stone is immortalizing. Think about life, death, oblivion, fate. That would be just enough. Maybe that is why roadside monuments exist, in the first place. Have a nice trip! 

106 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers MOMO KAPOR ”DRIFTING AND TELLING STORIES”

Hitchhikers

hen you give a ride to a traveler on the road, perhaps you are paying back some old debt to all those fine people who once gave you a free ride in their car, truck, on their motorcycle, in an oxcart or farmers’ cart, a buggy or a tractor-drawn trailer across this beautiful land of ours in which, until recently, a fine custom existed to give a ride to a lonely traveler on the road. Who knows? A traveler on the road enjoyed consideration almost equal to a beggar, a town fool or a pigeon on some city square. True, at that time there were fewer cars traveling our roads, but there were many more good folks than there are today, at least judging from how many of them stop to pick you up when you raise your hand in the pouring rain. As the number of cars multiplied, their speed increased as well as the suspicion that hitchhikers represented a threat – robbery, murder, rape, you name it… As a man acquires wealth, a fear grows in him that someone might take a piece of his wealth. Is he becoming suspicious of everything and everyone? Roaming the roads, I’ve noticed that the owners of dilapidated cars – namely drivers of Citroen 2CVs (themselves hitchhikers until recently), farmers in vans and truckers – are the most likely to give rides, as opposed to drivers of expensive new cars from whose windows happy families glare at you indifferently as you try to picture what their lives would be like had they not ”made it”. Perhaps the large number of traffic accidents is the fulfilment of curses uttered by poor hitchhikers as they are left in the dust. However, don’t forget that just as drivers have changed so too have hitchhikers! They almost have a uniform: big backpacks by their feet, water bottles, pans, banners, signs… They resemble one another so much that it sometimes seems that the same couple is hitchhiking along Mediterranean roads: that fragile

blond girl from the North and her partner with a downy beard. They are wilfully exiled from the consumer paradise, from the father’s house, from their native automobile nests… They stand at the side of the road as mute monuments dedicated to traveling and adventure. It is as if they’ve taken a bite from the forbidden fruit of wandering and the Almighty has condemned them to roam endlessly, without a goal, unto eternity. They are kind and nice. They thank you when you open the door for them and their bulky luggage, but they forget you the moment they leave your car. Their eyes are fixed way down some new road. You feel a bit guilty for being inside, in the car, defined by the number on your license plates, classified into the order of the wealthy by the speed and size of your car. The very act of driving implies, in some sense, your acceptance of staying in hotels, of buying gas, of limiting your freedom to a specific number of days off during the holidays, while they have opted to be romantic young wanderers, sleeping in the open, deemed vagrants by society, or people of God... Nevertheless, there is more comfort in their wanderlust than in your ostensible comfort, and incomparably more so than wandering back in the old days, with your hands in your pockets, without all that stuff in backpacks that holds a small household. There’s the sleeping bag (usually for two!), soft and with high-tech lining; there’s the yellow plastic cover with the waterproof hood, a small tent, sweaters, personal hygiene paraphernalia that even petty-bourgeois don’t own, and on top of everything – pyjamas! Although they despise certainty, these young people never travel without a guidebook (which still gives you the creeps, although you are the one accused of conformity!). The book lays everything out what to see; when the Sun sets in such-and-such a place and when the Swiss Guard changes at the Vatican...

Traveling Companions 107 Examining the content of their rucksacks, one comes to the conclusion that there is much comfort in that rebellion of theirs: it’s as if an entire industry that until recently worked for naive boy scouts is now working for these longhaired rebels, mom and dad’s little darlings who have gone out to get a direct taste of life before getting a proper job in a bank or a department store, for which they will have to cut their hair to an acceptable length. ”Talk on, old man, talk on”, you tell yourself, as you pass by young hitchhikers with their thumbs raised, but inside you feel uncomfortable for not being out there on the road, so you signal with your hands and mimic that you are ‘full’, as if you are guilty of something; you apologize as if you are passing your brothers in complete silence, and you notice fully well that they despise you for being one of the million idiots in the car caravan, a captive to such a life, to having some sort of a goal. Yet, when you take them in, you see that they are very polite, self-possessed, maybe a bit despondent, not really resembling your nervous generation; it’s as if they’ve all been conceived in the same bedroom, born in the same ward, fed with the same citrus fruits and vitamins. It’s as if they are all A-grade students because they immediately turn to their guidebooks to prepare for an encounter with beauty and history. There is exaggeration in their shabbiness, but don’t let that deceive you; as you go over in your mind whether to enter an expensive restaurant, you see them through the window paying for their dinner with credit cards! I recently felt the urge to go hitchhiking as I once used to. I went out on the road and lifted my thumb and – can you believe it? – I heard tires squeal behind my back in a second. Well, still, not everything’s lost, I thought to myself, and turned around. It was, of course – a taxi! I returned to town listening to the drowsy taximeter turning the minutes of my life into money. 

108 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

The peak Tornička Bobija Bobija is a mountain in the west part of Serbia, belonging to the mountain range of the mountains of Valjevo. It is the continuation of the Mountain Jablanik, side by side with Medvednik. Near Proslop it connects with Sokolska Mountain. It is unique for its views, for the River Tribuća and for its unusually positive influence of the population. The sky above the mountain is often full of griffon vultures, which build their nests on inaccessible rock of the Trešnjica canyon.

Fascinations 109

Waterfalls of Sopotnica This is one of the most beautiful sights in Serbia. These waterfalls are equally beautiful in the springtime, when the waters rise, and in the winter, when they completely freeze. Sopot is an old word for a spring, which comes out of a rock, and Sopotnica is full of these springs. They are also located on the hillsides of Jadovnik, on 1,000 meters. They flood over obstacles and form two waterfalls, 30 meters high. Then, they slope down towards the River Lim, bigger in height than in length. In the end of July, an eco camp and an authentic Serbian music festival are organized by the waterfall of Sopotnica, and that is probably the best time to visit.

110 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Stone Mountain It is said that the real name for this mountain is â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a mountain on a stone. It is well known for beautiful woods, spacious pastures, countless springs and long living (long living does not only refer to people but to the flora and fauna as well). The symbol of long living is a gorgeous pine tree, over 400 years old, spreading on the most dominant part of the mountain. The mountain is the place of the regional road, which connects Prijepolje and Pljevlja.

Fascinations 111

Kučaj Mountains These mountains are on the UNESCO lists for the protection of earth’s biosphere. They stretch south of Homolj, Beljanica, that is, hiding in its woods the most beautiful springs in Serbia. We should mention the springs of Crni Timok, Grza, Prskalo, Veliki Buk... It is hard to name all the caves, but we should mention the Cave of Resava and Lazar’s Cave as the most important ones. The canyon of Lazar’s river is fascinating as well and the canyon of the River Crnica. Prince Lazar built his endowment here – the monastery of Ravanica, and his son Stefan the monastery of Manasija.

112 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Tičije Polje Tičije Polje is said to be a real ethnographic museum. One can reach this village from Brodarevo, from the main road leading from Belgrade and Prijepolje to Podgorica. A macadam road leads us along the monastery of Davidovica, where the father of princess Milica and her epic brothers are buried. The road to Tičije Polje (which is the part of the village Milekić) is 12 kilometers long, almost 1.000 of height above sea level. The central household in the village is adapted for guests, and the outbuilding beside it was turned into a nice bungalow.

Fascinations 113

The Gorge of Jelašnica This gorge is 15 kilometers away from Niš, and 5 kilometers away from the Niš Spa. It is two kilometers long, meandering from the village of Čukljenik until Jelašnica. This short distance includes magnificent karst forms, the waterfall Ripaljka and many endemic plant species, from which the most important are Ramondia Serbica and Ramondia Nathaliae. Very interesting are the karst forms as openings in the rocks. A marked path is leading to such an opening called St. Elijah, above the village of Jelašnica, offering us a fantastic view.

114 Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

The River Uvac It is the biggest right tributary of the River Lim, in southeast Serbia. It was named by its unusually twisted flow, which is specially noticeable near the village Ursule. The hill Molitva offers us the most beautiful sight of the meanders. On one of the hills are the remains of Nemanjaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s town, and nearby is the brood of the biggest settlement of griffon vultures on the River Uvac. The river is dammed on three spots forming three lakes: The Lake of Uvac, the Lake of Zlatar and the Lake of Radoinj. In the lower flow of the river, the monastery of Uvac (Vuvac) was recently discovered and renovated.

SERBIA Map of Areas

Bačka

Novi Sad Banat

Srem

Belgrade West Serbia Šumadija and Smederevo

Southwest Serbia

Braničevo and Pomoravlje

Valley of Kings Rasina and Toplica

East Serbia

Niš

Southeast Serbia Kosovo and Metohia

Subotica Park narodnih heroja 9, 24413 Palić  024/9861, 670 350, 753 111, 753 119  024/670 350, 753 474  ticsu@yunord.net, jp.palic@tippnet.co.yu  www.palic.co.yu Sombor Trg Cara Lazara 1, 25000 Sombor  /: 025/434 350  info@somborvaros.org  www.somborvaros.org Bečej Trg oslobođenja 1, 21220 Bečej 021/6910 404

SUBO Madaraš Riđica

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Stanišić Pačir

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St. Moravica Svetozar Karađorđevo Miletić Čonoplja Bač.

Bezdan Bač. Monoštor

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Bačka is an area in the furthest Horgoš north of Serbia, standing between the Krstur Ban. Danube, the Tisa and the border with Aranđelovo M. Pijaca Kanjiža Hungaria. ”Emerged on the bottom Novi Kneževac of a dried up sea, a sea which Adorjan flew off Crna withBara Danube”. It is a large Drom Čokaand fertile plain, an area of Mok Čantavir never-ending corn, big rivers, Senta beautiful towns, farms, good wine Padej Iđoš K Tornjoš and people full of joy.

č. pola

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Šajkaš Vilovo Titel

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Subotica The first written document about Subotica, formerly known as Zabatka, comes from 1391. At the beginning of the next century, the city finds itself under the control of Janko Hunyadi and one of his successors, Duke Janos Pongrac of Erdelj, in 1470 built a rather small fortress on the site of a former Franciscan monastery, as a bastion to defend against the Turks. As Subotica lies on the border with Hungary, it had passed many times between Hungarian and Turkish control. In 1542, Subotica fell under Turkish authority and remained under that control until 1686. After the Turks left, Bunjevci, Serbs, and afterwards Hungarians, started to settle in. At the beginning of the 18th century, Franciscan monastery was built, the Church of St. Michael the Archangel was built in 1730, and an Orthodox church in 1725 that was reconstructed in 1910 when Paja Jovanović did the icons and a stained glass window. In the middle of the 19th century, the town got its first secular monumental building, a public-purpose hotel and theatre. The wing housing the hotel was finished in 1853 and one year later, the theatre wing was finished. The building was built in a neoclassicist style with an identifiable colonnade of six columns at the head of the building. The first theatre play in Subotica was played at the Franciscan grammatical school in 1747. The theatre in Subotica holds performances in Serbian and Hungarian language today. The golden age of Subotica, from the end of 19th century to the beginning of World War I, when in a short period it developed into a modern town. The most important buildings have been built at this time, including the Synagogue, the Town Hall, Reichel’s Palace, secondary school, and the library, which originated from the period of the governing secession style, decorated by Jolnaytz ceramics, and is a recognizable symbol of Subotica. Synagogue The Synagogue was built in the period from 1901-1902, in place of smaller and more modest one, according to the plans of Marcell Komor and Dezso Jakab. It was one of the first buildings consisting of concrete and steel constructions. The high central octagonal dome carried by steel columns dominates the building’s silhouette. The interior is decorated with light colored murals, wood-carvings and gypsum elements.

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Monument to Jovan Nenad

The interior of one of Subotica’s palaces

Town Square with a fountain, one of the town’s symbols

Town Library

The Emperor In 1927, 400 years after the death of Jovan Nenad Crni, a shortly self proclaimed ”Emperor of Serbs” and ”Emperor of Byzantium” with the capital in Subotica, on the main square of this town the people placed him a monument. It was the work of Petar Palavičini. It vanished in World War II, and it was later found and brought back to the town center in 1991.

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Sremski Karlovci Branka Radičevića 7, 21205 Sremski Karlovci  /: 021/882 127  info@karlovci.co.yu  www.karlovci.co.yu Irig Ribarski trg 17, 22404 Irig 022/461 126  tooirig@neobee.net Inđija Cara Dušana 1, 22320 Inđija 022/561 311

Beoči

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Erdevik

S. Ležmir

Grgurovci

Kukojevići Čalma

Morović

Laćarak Višnjićevo Zasivica Banovo Polje

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ŠABA Prnjavor Lešnica

Varna

Srem Surrounded with the Danube in the north, the Sava in the south and Fruška Gora, blessed with its churches and illuminated with its vineyards, lays the area of Srem, ”all decorated and gilded”. The Roman metropole of Sirmium was once in it, and today, one cannot decide where to go first and what to choose among all these beauties and sights.

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Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Sremski Karlovci This vivid town surrounded by vineyards sits on the northeast slopes of Fruška Gora Mountain, along the Danube. A bit more than two centuries ago, Sremski Karlovci was the centre of the religious, political and cultural life of Serbian people in Austro-Hungarian Empire. The historical continuity of this region can be traced to Neolithic times. In the Roman era, it was within the Roman province of Lower Pannonia. By the end of the 3rd century new economic blooming starts in this part of Srem. The first mention in historical sources is from 1308, when it is mentioned as Karom. In September 1521, the army of Sultan Suleiman on the occasion of military operations after the failure of Belgrade, destroyed and burned Karlovci as wells as towns in Srem. The medieval fortified town has never been renovated. Karlovci was under the Turks, until 1688. The most important period of this town begins after the Great Migration in 1690. In 1699, the so-called ‘Peace in Karlovac’ was signed between The Holy League (Venice, Poland and Austria) and Ottoman Empire in Karlovac. Tough and complicated negotiations lasted for 72 days. The place where the negotiations were held is the oval Chapel of peace, built on the hill above Karlovci. Later, it became the catholic chapel dedicated to ”Mary of Peace”. The Charter of Emperor Charles VI defined Karlovci defined as a capital of Archbishop – Metropolitan of Serbian Orthodox Diocese of Metropolitan of Karlovac. Spreading of political importance and the new role of the town brought about the need to construct public buildings with civic functions. The historical centre was developed around the central square, which today carries the name of Branko Radičević. (this poet’s grave, who was the most important figure of Serbian Romanticism, is 4 kilometers away from the village, on the hill of Stražilovo, that was, one century later, the theme of another Serbian poet’s work – Miloš Crnjanski). The Baroque fountain, the Four Lions, was built in the centre of the town in 1799. The Church of Saint Peter and Paul was built in the first half of the 18th century (1719) and in 1746 the Church of the Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple was renovated at the place of the medieval shrine. Dimitrije Bačević did the iconostasis in both of the churches by the end of 18th century. The new Cathedral Church was built thanks to devotion of Metropolitan Pavle Nenadović in the period from 1758-1762. The famous iconostasis, the work of Teodor Kračun and Jakov Orfelin, one of the most significant works of Serbian baroque is placed in this building. The Catholic Church originates from 1768.

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The central square in Sremski Karlovci, with a view on the Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas and the Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity

Iconostasis, altars: the interior of two main churches in Sremski Karlovci

The Orthodox Theological Seminary

Fame The great people of Serbian culture have praised it, built and painted its churches, immortalized their streets and its people. In the crucial time of the newer Serbian history, in the period of ”the Serbian Renaissance”, Sremski Karlovci was the most important place of the Serbian sacral, political and cultural geography.

SREM

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Novi Sad Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 9, 21000 Novi Sad 021/421 811,  421 812, 451 481  021/451 481  ticns@ptt.yu ww.novisadtourism.org.yu w www.novisadtourism.com

Zmajevo Stepanovićevo

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Kisač

Rumenka Gložan

Futog V NA

Begeč

Veternik

DUNAV

Novi Sad A dignified town on the Danube, standing opposite to the Fortress of Petrovaradin, called the ”Gibraltar of Danube”. The town is keeping many beginnings and many important events of Serbian history and culture. Called ”the Serbian Athens”, so traditional, but yet so modern, Novi Sad attracts the traveler with its charm and greatness. This town had never given up on its ”slow life style”, not even in the most dramatic moments.

Slana Bara

Satelit

Srem. Kamenica

PETROVARADIN V NA DU

UNAV

NOVI SAD

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Serbian Athens Novi Sad sits at the crossing of important roads, and due to frequent migrations during its troubled past. Today, it is an important cultural, economic and tourist center on Danube, a modern city which counts 300 thousand citizens. The first dwelling dates all the way to the Bronze Age, on the right bank of the Danube River near Petrovaradin. The Celts were the first to establish a small-fortified settlement in the 4th century. The Huns on their way through the plains of Pannonia destroyed the Roman city Cusum. Here, the Byzantines built the fortress of Petrikon at the end of the 5th century, and the Slavs moved in by the end of the 6th century. The city suffered numerous invasions from differing forces: Huns, Franks, Bulgarians, and the Byzantines again and finally Hungarians. Novi Sad expanded rapidly and completely from the middle of the 18th century. The oldest parts of the city originate from that period – Almaš quarter (after the village Almaš), today known as Podbara, soon followed Salajka and Rotkvarija. From the same period dates the very centre of the town with many public, cultural, trade and craft buildings. The year 1748 is very important for Novi Sad history and progress, when Maria Theresa on February 1, declared it a free royal city named Neoplanta-Neusatz-Újvidék (translation in Serbian: Novi Sad). This special status resulted in further expansion of culture, education and art. Emanuel Janković opened the first library and printing firm (1790), the Serbian Orthodox gymnasium (was founded in 1810), and distinguished professor Georgije Magarašević published the first periodic magazine Letopis Matice Srpske „Serbski letopis” (Annals of Serbian Mainland) dedicated to literature. Serbian National Theatre opened in 1861, and three years later, the main office of Matica Srpska, established in 1826 in Budapest, moved to Novi Sad. In November 1918, during the Vojvodina Assembly session in Novi Sad, the representatives of all nationalities voted for a union with Serbia, i.e. the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians (proclaimed December 1, 1918). Industrial progress achieved after 1918 and intensified after 1945 made Novi Sad an important industrial centre today.

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Central town square in Novi Sad

Monument to Đura Jakšić

Novi Sad, beginning of the 20th century

Old maps: the place of the present town of Novi Sad

Measurements The Serbian measurements of Vojvodina and Novi Sad – says a well known historian – were determined by „soldiers-border guards, boatmen, many noble families, Sava Tekelija, Svetozar Miletić, Jovan Hadžić, Lukijan Mušicki, Muškatirović, Đura, Zmaj, Laza, Branko, Crnjanski, Isidora, Veljko. All people known and unknown have left many treasures and properties for the well-being of the Serbian people – Rajić and Stratimirović, count Đorđe Branković, commander Stevan Šupljikac, and many, many, more.”

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Vojvoda Stepa Bašaid

Nova Crnja Torda

Novi Bečej

Srpski Itebej

Kumane Begejci

Melenci

dište

Krajišnik

Žitište Čurug

Jaša Tomić Sutjeska Šurjan

ZRENJANIN

Elemir

n balj Đurđevo

Belo Blato Šajkaš Vilovo Titel

E75

Beška

Jarkovac

Vršac

Jabuka

Uljma

Vladimirovac Banatsko Novo Selo

Sušara

Dolovo

na v

upinovo

Dobanovci

Besni Fok

Markovac Mesić

Alibunar

Sefkerin Glogonj

Borča

Deliblato Dubovac Gaj

Surčin Kovin

E75

Boljevci

Kostolac

Ritopek Umka

Bela Crkva Vračev Gaj

PANČEVO

BEOGRAD

Bečmen

Vel. Središte

Jermenovci

Seleuš

Padina

Baranda Opovo

N. Pazova Batajnica

Vatin

Lokve Kovačica

đija St. Pazova

Ilanđa

Sakule

N. Slankamen

Ašanja

Samoš

Idvor

St. Slankamen Krčedin

olubinci

Plandište Dobrica

otište

Sečanj

Botoš

Ečka

Dubravica Brežane

Klenovik

Ram Ostrvo V. Gra Braničevo Majilovac

Banat The east part of Vojvodina, between the Tisa, the Danube and the borders with Romania and Hungary. It is a never-ending and plentiful plain, intersected with the Begej and the Tamiš, well known for its wines and beers, horses and songs and dignified towns celebrated by the famous people of Banat.

Kikinda Trg srpskih dobrovoljaca 12, 23300 Kikinda /: 0230/26 300 Zrenjanin Koče Kolarova 68, 23000 Zrenjanin  023/523 160, 523 260  023/523 161  office@zrenjanintourism.org Pančevo Kralja Petra I 2-4, 26000 Pančevo  013/351 366  013/351 365  office@top.org.yu  www.top.org.yu Vršac Tgr pobede 1, 26300 Vršac /: 013/822 554, 832 909  toovrsac@yahoo.com  www.to.vrsac.com

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Zrenjanin Zrenjanin is the biggest town in Banat, and the center of its Serbian part – the biggest community in Vojvodina. It is settled on the banks of the River Begej, 73 kilometers away from Belgrade, in the middle of the Danube-Tisa-Danube canal. The town counts 80 thousand residents, and the community over 130 thousand. In the later medieval age, based on the more reliable documents, present Zrenjanin is first mentioned in 1326 as a village emerged on three islands on the River Begej. At that time, the Hungarian king Charles I often resided in Banat, first, in Timisoara. Besides him, many noblemen came here, but, by the most powerful of them, Imre Bečei, Bečej, Novi Bečej and Bečkerek (present Zrenjanin), have been named. Serbs have been in Zrenjanin since the ancient times, „even before the Great Migration”, and in the 15th century, Zrenjanin was a typical Serbian town. In the beginning of the 15th century, Turks are penetrating the area. After the defeat in the Battle of Nicopolis, in 1396, the Hungarian king Sigmund, the founder of the Knights of the Dragon (in which the Serbian despot Stefan Lazarević will be „the first among the equals”) wanted to strengthen the defense of the area. On the 30th of September 1398 he was in Bečkerek, and in the end of the year 1403, he gave to despot Stefan Lazarević this town into possession, as well as the title of the head of the Torontal parish. The final liberation of Banat from the Turks came with the declaration of the peace treaty of Požarevac on July 27th, 1718.” In the revolution (1848-1849) during which the Serbian Vojvodina was proclaimed on the May Parliament Session in Sremski Karlovci, the Serbian army seized Bečkerek twice (the leader of the Serbian army was Đorđe Stratimirović and then, Stevan Knićanin). Despite the final defeat of the Serbian army, the Great Bečkerek became the capital of the area of Serbian Vojvodina and Banat (proclaimed by the Emperor’s constitution from November 18th, 1849). Seventy years later, there was an important turn of events for this town: „The first army of the duke Petar Bojović liberated Belgrade in November 1918 and made a move to liberate Vojvodina. Eight days later the Serbian army penetrated Novi Sad, and on November 12th – Vršac and Kikinda... The Great Bečkerek was just beginning to feel the odor of freedom and on the last day of October 1918, the Serbian Chamber of Nationalities was established, in war conditions, as a temporary administrative

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3 4

Zrenjanin: Main Street with beautiful ancient buildings Details from Zrenjanin’s facades

Presence There were Serbs in Zrenjanin since the ancient times, „even before the great migration of the people”, and in the 15th century, it became a mostly Serbian town.

BANAT

187

Padinska Skela

V NA

Batajnica

Borča Krnjača

Zemun E70

BEOGRAD

Surčin Jakovo Boljevci SAVA

Obrenovac

Kaluđerica Železnik

Resnik

E75

Sremčica

Umka

Grocka Vrčin

Ripanj

Barič

Barajevo

Stepojevac

Ralja

Sopot

Mladenovac Lazarevac

Belgrade ”I have found the prettiest place since the ages, the greatest city of Belgrade that is coincidently destroyed and abandoned, I have built it and dedicated to the Holy Virgin Mary” This is what despot and saint Stefan Lazarević wrote about Belgrade. He made it Serbian again, in the 15th century. Today, Belgrade is an exciting metropole of two million people, on one of the prettiest places in Europe, representing the true center of European Southeast.

Belgrade Dečanska 1/II, 11000 Belgrade 0  11/ 3248 404, 3226 154,  011/ 32 48 770  office@belgradetourism.org.yu ww.belgradetourism.org.yu w www.tob.co.yu

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

The Capital City Ancient Belgrade, or Singidunum as it was known then, was founded and built by the Celtic tribe Scordisci in 3rd century BC. Their town was concentrated, most likely, in the area of present Zvezdara or in Višnjica. At the beginning of the last century BC, Romans built the first fortress on the same location where Kalemegdan is today. In the 1st century AD, that castrum was to become the seat of two well-known Roman legions, the Fourth (Scythian) and the Fifth (Macedonian). The roads brought to the city many celebrated people, including the Roman emperors Tiberius, Septimius Severus, Valerian, Claudius II, Diocletian and others. In the middle of the 4th century AD, from the misty steppes of Pannonia, emerged warrior tribes who attacked the walls of Singidunum like turbulent waves. The city was destroyed and conquered successively by the Goths (378) and Huns (441). The ruined and besieged city was renovated in the 6th century by the same Byzantine emperor who had built the church of St. Sofia in Constantinople (Istanbul), Emperor Justinian I. Belgrade regained something of its former splendour, but devastations continued, with the Avars in 584 and the Bulgarians in 829 causing the heaviest damage. The Slavic name Belgrade was mentioned in written documents for the first time in the papal bull signed by Pope John VIII in 878. In a special way, that would be the name day of the Serbian capital. Belgrade became the Serbian capital for the first time not by means of sword, but by charter. In 1284, two years after Dragutin Nemanjić abdicated his throne to his brother Milutin in Deževo and moved to the north, his father-in-law, the Hungarian King Bela IV, granted him Belgrade, Mačva, Srem, Jadar and Usora and Soli in Bosnia. King Dragutin became a monk known as Teoktist and died in 1316. His son Vladislav inherited control over Belgrade and the northern Serbian kingdom, but only for a short time. Soon, King Milutin (Vladislav’s uncle) took over the throne from Vladislav and imprisoned him. Following this, Belgrade was demolished once again when the ”Hungarian army took a revengeful attack, conquering and burning Belgrade to the ground”. This is how the Nemanjić’s rule over Belgrade ended. It took 84 years for the fortress above the confluence to be returned to Serbian hands. In 1404, Despot Stefan Lazarević got Belgrade as a diplomatic award from the Hungarian King Sigismund of Luxembourg.

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Symbols: Belgrade Fortress and Belgrade Victor

Terazije in Belgrade in the beginning of the 20th century

Kalemegdan, a long time ago

A town destroyed by wars: Belgrade, Lower Town

The Town and its soul „He who wants to conquer the fortress must first conquer his own soul. A trip through our soul leads us to Belgrade, one of the oldest and most often destroyed towns in the world... These who love and know this town, do not know it by what they have seen or touched in it. Its biggest and probably most beautiful part of it is the one, which had disappeared forever... But history has one disappeared part as well, the one that shall never be renovated, the one that is inside us, and not in the world around us.” (Milorad Pavić)

BELGRADE

233

Šabac Karađorđeva 5, 15000 Šabac  015/347 383, 347 384  015/347 383  tossabac@verat.net  www.so.sabac.org

Bogatić

ŠABAC

Gra

Prnjavor

Loznica Tgr Jovana Cvijića 6/3, 15300 Loznica  015/878 520  015/878 523 Valjevo Prote Mateje 1, 14000 Valjevo  014/221 138,  014/226 112  tovaljevo@ptt.yu  www.divcibare.co.yu

Pričinović

Lešnica

Varna Bela Reka

Desić

Lojan

Jadr. Lešnica

Loznica Banja Koviljača

Ribarica

Tekeriš

Kamenic Zavlaka

Mali Zvornik

Osečina

Radalj Krupanj

Pecka

Postenje Ljubovija

Bobova Počuta

Mitrovac

Bajina Bašta

UŽ

Kremna Šlji

Nikinci

Subotište

West Serbia

Dobanovci

S This is an area between the Sava in the north, the Drina Bečmen Grabovci Ašanja in the west, the Kolubara Boljevci in the east and the mountains of Obrež Sava Užice in the south. It includes many different towns Kupinovo Provo and many genius loci, from Šabac, Loznica and Lojanice Obrenovac Valjevo to Kosjerić and Bajina Bašta. An area of Grabovac Ušće fertile valleys Stubline and beautiful forests, cultivated Vladimirci Dren plains and brave Dra men which have never lost Kažuar Banjani their dream of freedom, living on the Brgule Tulari ancient border through centuries. menica Koceljeva Tovarnik

Pambukovica

Lazarevac

Lajkovac Divci

Valjevo

Mionica

Ljig

Vrujci

očuta

Brežđe

Krčmar

G. Kočtunići

Mravinci

na a UŽICE

G. M

Družetići

Jakalj Kosjerić

Jančići Lunovo Selo

Požega

Lučani Kravica

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Šabac Its linchpin taken out of the prince’s coach, its gentility and Europeanism, the first piano that played in the resurrected Serbia of the XIX century, its lucid bohemia and style, its wounds and battles, and, above all, its invincible laughter, made this town not only famous and praised in songs, but also immortal. ”Mona Lisa sent kisses to Šabac all the way from Paris; the night life in the Balkans was like in the middle of Paris.” And the style? ”When grandfather caroused, on three streets and two squares, the cane and the hat drove two separate coaches.” The legend says that, in the time of the Nemanjić dynasty, there was a town called Mačva as part of their state. It is not known for certain where it was exactly located, there are no material traces, no proof that it existed beyond the tale. There are interpreters trying to relate it to nearby Debrc, summer capital of the ”Northern Serbian kingdom” of Dragutin Nemanjić. Whatever the truth may be, only the name of that medieval town remained, if it really existed at all. Today, Mačva is a fertile plain spreading from Šabac to Pocerina, Jadar and right bank of the Drina, ”twin sister of Semberia” and ”adopted sister of Srem”. According to one interpretation, the name Šabac originates from the original Savac, after the large river flowing through it. In the maps of the Dubrovnik merchants from the XV century, a Slav settlement Zaslon was drawn in this place. After the fall of Serbia under Turkish rule, in that XV century, the area of present Šabac was on the border of Turkey and Hungary. Not far from the confluence of the little river Kamičak into the Sava, on an uplift on the bank, the Turks raised a small but strong military fort in 1470. They named it Bejerdelen – ”the one striking from the side” – which speaks a lot about the purpose of the fortress. In the times that followed, living its fate of a border town, Šabac changed empires several times, just as they changed the town. When the Turks conquered it for a longer time, they changed it into an oriental village, with narrow streets, small shops and several mosques. Life was mostly related to the fortress. The marsh soil did not allow further expansion. The oldest Šabac city quarter was built on the uplift Bair, connected to the fortress with a long, wooden bridge. Turks lived in the fortress and Serbs and other Christians on Bair. When the First Serbian Uprising broke out in 1804, the Šabac area became a significant center of the uprising. Six

270

Šabac, National Museum, established in 1945 (in the building of the Gymnasium from 1856)

The House of Krsmanović, architect Jovan Ilkić

Mišar In the Battle of Mišar (August 1, 1806), the Serbian rebels, lead by Karađorđe, defeated a much more numerous and better equipped Turkish army. Many Serbian heroes stood out in this battle, and the streets of Serbian cities and towns still keep names of many of them: Miloš Stojičević Pocerac, Jakov Nenadović, Zmaj of Noćaj (Stojan Čupić), priest Luka Lazarević, priest Smiljanić, Cincar Janko… The famous blind poet and gusle player Filip Višnjić, and the even more famous ”two black ravens”, spread the voice about it through space and time. The poem Battle of Mišar outlived all its heroes, and all empires since its creation, while the city of Šabac outlived the curses of the widow of Turkish captain Kulin.

WEST SERBIA

271

Takovo

Mitrovac

Kosjerić

Bajina Bašta

Kremna

G. Milanovac

Družetići

Jakalj

Jančići

UŽICE

Lunovo Selo

Šljivovica Mokra Gora

ČAČAK

Lučani

Požega

Zaoke

Kravica

Sevojno

Mrč Slat

Guča Arilje

Rožanstvo Čajetina G. Jablanica

Ljubiš

Priboj

Sirogojno

Visoka

Jasenovo

Trešnjevica

Prilike

Kaona B

Tolišnica

Šarenik

Ivanjica Opaljenik Međurečje Vrmbaje

Bučje D. Babine

Nova Varoš

Rud

Kladnica

Prijepolje

Aljnovići

Sjenica

Duga Poljana Mitrova R Osaonica

Bačice

Suvi Do

Tutin

Southwest Serbia Zlatibor, Tara and many more mountain beauties of Serbia, fast rivers and fascinating canyons, mountain lakes and amazing sights are symbols of Southwest Serbia. This area is known worldwide by its plums and raspberries, its creative people and towns, the griffon vulture and Mokra Gora, the ”Šargan Eight” and ”life as a miracle”.

Užice Trg partizana 10, 31000 Užice 031/513 485, 514 761  031/513 485  office@turizamuzica.org.yu  www.turizamuzica.org.yu Požega Francuska бб, 31210 Požega /: 031/714 650  topozega@beotel.yu  www.topoz.co.yu Nova Varoš - Zlatar Karađorđeva 36, 31320 Nova Varoš 033/62 621  033/62 621, 62 140  tozlatar@verat.net  www.zlatar.org.yu

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Užice The heart of the Užice area is Zlatibor. This whole county in Southwest Serbia was named after it, those 6.171 km2, i.e. ten municipalities, or 11 percent of the Serbian territory. The forests cover almost half of this area, marked by mountain beauties: besides Zlatibor (Tornik, 1.496 m), there are also Tara (1.544), Zlatar (1.625), Javor (1.519) and Golija (1.834). The rivers of this area are also fascinating: the Drina, the Lim, the Uvac, the Đetinja. Only a small part of their power is used in the five built hydroelectric power plants. Although it may not seem such at first glance, this mountainous area – where more than 350.000 people live – has had good communication with the surroundings since the early times. The highway leading towards the Adriatic Sea passes through here, the Belgrade-Bar railway, the local airport Ponikve is open for civil traffic. It is certain that Užice, under that name, was first mentioned in written documents on October 9, 1329, in a letter from the Dubrovnik office. Some historians claim that it happened much earlier, in 1020, in the Decree of Byzantine emperor Vasilije II, which is less certain. They also claim that it is a Celtic town, two millennia old. However, it is for sure that all those layers and époques we see in most of Serbia can also be seen in Užice, from the neolith cultures (5500 years before the Christian era), through the ”line of ancient nations”, the Roman era, Serbian middle ages, long Turkish occupation, until the resurrection of modern Serbia. According to old chronicles, in the Roman times, in the place where Užice stands today, there was a Municipium Ca pedunum, having an ”important role in the Roman province Dalmatia”. In the Nemanjić époque, from the XII to the XIV century, the famous noble families Rastislalić, Vojinović and Altomanović lived here. ”Prince Lazar, with the help of the Bosnian king Tvrtko, overthrew the powerful Nikola Altomanović, probably in 1373”, state the books. Under the Turks, Užice was first a village, and that is how it was registered in the land registers. Then, in the XVI century, it experiences an ascent. Evlija Ćelebija writes about it as a town with 5.000 houses and more than 15.000 inhabitants. Užice was liberated from the Turks for the first time in the First Serbian Uprising in 1805, and then in 1807. The Turkish population completely moved out of it in 1862, after

308

Užice: panorama

Bathing beach and sports center in town

Building of the Gymnasium in Užice

Jumps from the Old railroad bridge on the Đetinja

People of Užice A part of this town’s spirituality and an important element of its position on the Serbian cultural map are certainly the excellent authors born here or those who lived and created here. We cannot mention all of them, but we will mention at least Milutin Uskoković, one of the most significant writers of Serbian modern art from the 20-ies of the XX century, the philosopher of history and professor of the Užice gymnasium Božidar Knežević (1962-1905), the academic and poet Ljubomir Simović, the writer – Oscar winner Steve (Stojan) Tešić, the extraordinary American writer and university professor Nađa Tešić…

SOUTHWEST SERBIA

309

ČAČAK

Zaoke

Slatina

KRALJEVO

ča Trešnjevica

Guncati

Mrčajevci

Kaona

Tolišnica

Bogutovac

Mataruška Banja

Kamenica

Godačic

Gračac Vrnjačka Banja

Ušće Vrmbaje Rudno

Koritnik

Raška

Duga Poljana Mitrova Reka Osaonica

Bačice

Brzeće

Belo B

N. Pazar Leposa

Valley of Kings The first state of Serbia and first Archbishopy, the first crowned king and immortal endowments, praised rivers and healing waters mark this blissful and important area. Studenica and Žiča, Stari Ras and Đurđevi Stupovi, nuns and first hand-written books – that is what you shall find here, where, many centuries ago, people came by ”roads covered in lilacs”.

Kraljevo Trg Srpskih ratnika 25, 36000 Kraljevo /: 036/311 192, 316 000  jutok@tron-inter.net  www.jutok.org.yu Vrnjačka Banja Vrnjačka 6/2, 36210 Vrnjačka Banja /: 036/ 611 105, 661 106, 661 107  tsc_vb@ptt.yu  www.vrnjackabanja.co.yu Raška Nemanjina 1/II, 36350 raška 036/ 736 085, 71-230  036/ 736 204  office@raska-turizam.co.yu toraska@eunet.yu

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Kraljevo Almost on the very confluence of the Ibar into Zapadna Morava, stands Kraljevo, the largest municipality in Serbia – according to its area – and one of the most important cities of Central Serbia, the administrative, commercial and cultural center of the Raška County. About 140.000 people live here on 1.530 km2, 70.000 in the city. The town was founded in the X century, as a Slavic settlement Janok. In the Nemanjić époque, it was a very important center. In the XV century, the name Rudopolje was first mentioned. The Turkish sources from the same century, in 1476, mention it as Karanovac. Since the fall of medieval Serbia until the First Serbian Uprising, it was under Turkish dominion. It is known how. Then, in 1805, it was liberated and remained free for eight years, and then, after a twoyear pause, in 1815, the final liberation arrived. This kingly town finally got its name Kraljevo (King’s) in 1882, when renewed Serbia was declared kingdom, and Milan Obrenović crowned in Žiča as the first Serbian new age king. Kraljevo (Žiča) is the place where medieval Serbia also became kingdom in 1217, after the crowning of Stefan the First-Crowned. Seven kings were crowned in Kraljevo and their seven crowns are represented in the city’s coat of arms. The first urbanism plan of present Kraljevo was designed by prince Miloš Obrenović, ”with his finger on the bottom of a plate of sand”. This sketch of a formally uneducated but bright ruler served as an idea to Laza Zuban of how to turn this village into a modern town in 1832. ”Three main alleys” were cut in, after which a network of streets was created, starting from the central round square, crossing under a right angle and spreading into four directions. The city of Kraljevo is considered a masterpiece of Serbian urbanism. The Balkan Wars and then the two world wars significantly disturbed the rapid development. In October 1941, in a horrible mass shooting, the German army halved the population of this town! In the place of the massacre, near today’s railway station, according to the design of Spasoje Krunić and Dragutin Kovačević, a monument was raised to the victims of this genocide. So we don’t forget. Modern Kraljevo is an important cultural, educational, commercial, but also a tourist center. Besides the museum, theater, library, city archive, cultural monuments protection institute, writers and fine artists association, there are many cultural-artistic associations in the town, art colonies and

332

Kraljevo: 1

Square of Serbian Warriors

Monument to a Warrior

Master Vasa’s Residence, the first half of the 19th century, now a National Museum

Quay on the Ibar

The City of Seven Crowns Each of the seven crowns from the coat of arms of Kraljevo has its head, its history, its destiny. They entered heraldry, frescoes, novels. Poems did not skip them either. Seven kings of the royal town, from the same number of époques and several famous Serbian dynasties, contributed to naming this town, in 1882, by its real, royal name.

VALLEY OF KINGS

333

Kragujevac Kralja Aleksandra I Karađorđevića 98, 34000 Kragujevac 034/334 054, 334 883  034/335 302  gto.kragujevac@gmail.com  www.kragujevac.org.yu Aranđelovac Kneza Miloša 243, 34300 Aranđelovac 034/724 097  034/724 097  office@bukovickabanja.com  www.bukovickabanja.com Čačak Trg ustanka 1, 32000 Čačak 032/342 360  032/225 069  toc@ptt.yu  www.turizamcacak.org.yu

Umka

Obrenovac

ovac

Stubline

Ralja

Barajevo Draževac

Brgule

Beljina Sibnica

Rogača

Mla

Vinčane

Lazarevac

Lajkovac

Stojnik Orašac

Partizani

Aranđelovac Mionica

Ljig

To Ople

Belanovica

Vrujci Brežđe

Staga

Boljkovci

G. Banjani Koštunići Takovo

Vraćevšni

G. Milanovac Družetići Jančići

Lučani Kravica

ČAČAK Guča

Slatina

Šumadija and Smederevo Kleno

SMEDEREVO

This is the heart of the newborn Dragovac

Serbia. This is where Serbia woke up and where it was born again. Osipaonica This is the place of both of the Mihajlovac Vel. Krsna Serbian Uprisings in the Lozovik Selevac beginning of the Serbian Mladenovac Golobok revolution in the 19th Azanja century. This rolling Smed. Palanka nik ground, its towns, mountains and people, Jagnjilo ac Pridvorica its songs, rivers and Vel. Plana exploits, are the first E75 ac thing we mention when Topola Rača Oplenac we try to explain Lapovo ”the essence of Serbia”. Šatornja

Batočina

Čamić

tagari

Sipić

V. Šenj Bare

evšnica

Desimirovac Kutlovo

Jag

KRAGUJEVAC Knić

Dragoc Ratković Rekovac

Guncati

Godačica

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Kragujevac A young city with old memories. While passing through this region in 1874, the Czech historian Constantine Jyricheck wrote: ”Belgrade is Europe. However, if you want to see a real Serbian town, go to see Kragujevac… One-storey houses, mostly made of wood, with gardens in front and in the back; clean streets… The market place – a long, wide street, or better more, a square paved with white rock, runs through the center of the town.” Although archeology claims that organized life has existed here since the prehistoric times, the Turks in 1476, which took it over from the withdrawn Christian population, first mentioned it in written documents as an urban settlement under the name of Trg (Square). Since then, all the way until the Serbian liberation uprisings in the XIX century, the Turks were the majority. The Austro-Hungarians took it over only twice, when more significant inhabiting by the Christian population took place (1689-1690 and 1719-1738). In 1818, after the Second Serbian Uprising, prince Miloš Obrenović proclaimed Kragujevac as the first capital of renewed Serbia. Today it is a beautiful, modern, dynamic city with 180.000 inhabitants (and one of the four with an official status of a city in Serbia). The people of Kragujevac would say, joking, that their city is not 140 km south of Belgrade, but that Belgrade is 140 km north of Kragujevac. It is surrounded by the slopes of Rudnik, Crni Vrh and Gledić mountains, representing its natural borders. It is an important traffic center with roads leading to six sides. It is only about 20 kilometers from the international Belgrade-Niš highway (Corridor 10). The old Belgrade-Kragujevac-Niš road passes through the Kragujevac area and the Belgrade-Lapovo-Skopje railway.

CHURCHES OF KRAGUJEVAC Old Church The whole history of the city may be dramatically told through the history of this church. The church is the foundation of prince Miloš, dedicated to the Decent of the Holy Spirit on the Apostles. It was built on an old cemetery, on the right bank of the Lepenica river, in the times when Serbia still had the status of a vassal. Only Miloš’s wits could trick the Turks and their regulations forbidding Christian temples to be bigger than mosques, so this church is much bigger than it was originally planned.

364

Kragujevac: panorama

Monument to Commander Putnik and the building of the District court

King Petar’s Street in Kragujevac, main pedestrian zone

The First one Except for being the first capital of the resurrected Serbia in the XIX century, Kragujevac was ”the first in Serbia” for many other things: the first court (1820), first gymnasium (1833), first newspaper (Newspaper of Serbia, edited by Dimitrije Davidović), first theater (The PrincelySerbian Theater of Joakim Vujić, 1835), first lyceum (1838), first molten cannons (1853), first electrical central (1884).

ŠUMADIJA AND SMEDEREVO

365

Deliblato Dubovac

Ram

Gaj vin

Kostolac

Ostrvo V. Gradište Braničevo Majilovac

Dubravica Klenovik Brežane

Golubac

POŽAREVAC

Brnjica

Radenka

Zelenik

Rakova bara

Lučica Malo Crniće

Boževac Kučevo Manastirica Vel. Selo Kučajno Kladurovo Aleksandrovac

Majd

olobok Melnica

Petrovac

nka Žabari

. Plana

Bistrica

Burovac

Šetonje

Svilajnac

Čordin

Sipić

Žagubica

Despotovac

Vojska Rajkina

ovac

Glogovac Krušar

Jagodina ović

Sige

Krupaja

Gložane

Batočina

Bukovska

Stamnica

V. Laole

Kušljevo

E75

Dragocvet Rekovac

Senje

Ćuprija

Sisevac Popovac

Paraćin Raševica

Plana

Troglan Bara

B B Podgo

Braničevo and Pomoravlje In Celtic, Morava means ”a beautiful girl”. The town of Braničevo explains itself by its name (it is derived from the Serbian verb ”braniti”, meaning, ”to defend”). Since the ancient times, different people and cultures had felt the benefits of this earth. This is where Moravian Serbia was born, the one which ”took over the torch after the disaster of the Empire” and emerged on the Danube. This is the place of the despots’ country, of churches and fortresses, which made Serbia rise again in the 19th century.

Požarevac Stari korzo 8, 12000 Požarevac 012/221 941  012/542 247  topozarevac@ms012.net  www.topozarevac.co.yu Jagodina Slavke Đurđević nn-Hotel ”Jagodina”, 35000 Jagodina 035/220 052  024/221 052  amilena@ptt.yu Despotovac Moše Pijade 2-4, 35213 Despotovac /: 035/611 110  respec@milnet.co.yu  www.resavska-pecina.co.yu

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Požarevac Požarevac is located 80 km from Belgrade, with about 50.000 inhabitants. It is an intersection of roads towards Homolj and Đerdap. It was first mentioned in prince Lazar’s charter as the village of Puporače. Miloš Obrenović, the first ruler of the renewed Serbian state in the XIX century, proclaimed Požarevac in 1825 as his second capital and started building and arranging it. He founded a haras, first one in Serbia. He built resting houses for himself and his wife Ljubica after whom the haras was later named Ljubičevo. In the year 1888, the Administrative and Court Building was built in this city, in academism style, and was the largest administrative building in Serbia at the time. The Cathedral Church dedicated to Holy Archangels Gabriel and Michael was built in 1819, as a single nave neoclassicist edifice. The iconostasis was painted by Nikola Marković in 1870, in the spirit of eclectical ideas of the time. The National Museum in Požarevac was founded in 1895 and is one of the first in Serbia. It has an archeological, historical, ethnographical and art collection. The archeological collection from the nearby ancient town of Viminatium is of worldwide significance. Within the National Museum is the Milena PavlovićBarili Gallery, located in the birth house of this famous Serbian painter. Her complete creative heritage is kept there, including about 700 paintings, drawings, aquarelles, her personal belongings and archive material. In a place called Čačalica, where about 3.000 patriots were shot during World War II, today stands a memorial park. There is also an ossuary of Russian warriors who died in 1944, during liberating Serbia.

Veliko Gradište Veliko Gradište stands on the Danube, 114 km downstream from Belgrade, with a population of about 27.000. The town is a harbor for all ships coming via the Danube from the Black Sea ports, going towards Central Europe. The river Pek flows into the Danube by Veliko Gradište. After building the hydroelectric power plant ”Đerdap” and raising the level of the Danube at the confluence of Pek, a bay was formed, which soon became a large habitat of many bird species.

408

National Museum in Požarevac

Horse games of Ljubičevo

Pincum Pincum, the present Pek, was first mentioned by Plinius. The most interesting thing about this Roman town are the special copper coins minted in it. According to its size, the money belongs to the group of ”small bronze”. Because of its rarity, these coins are extraordinarily valuable today. It is known that there are only five pieces located in Vienna, Berlin, London and Belgrade.

BRANIČEVO AND POMORAVLJE

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Kruševac Miloja Zakića 3, 37000 Kruševac 037/445 180, 440 332  037/39 055  turistks@ptt.yu  www.turizam-krusevac.org.yu Prokuplje Ratrka Pavlovića 84, 18400 Prokuplje 027/329 989  027/329 901  tscpk@beotel.net  www.tscpk.org

Varvar Milutovac

EVO

Medveđa V. Drenova

ica Gračac

Jasika

Trstenik Brezovica

KRUŠEV

Kuršumlija Kosovska 17, 18430 Kuršumlija 027/380 963  027/380 961

G. Rataje Aleksandrovac

Ravnište Brus

Razbojna

Brzeće

G. Jo

Blace

Belo Brdo

Merčez

Barbatovac

Kuršumlija Leposavić ka

Palatna

Bajgora

KOSOVSKA

Rudare

arvarin

Rasina and Toplica Grabovo

This was the place of Stefan Nemanja’s Vrbovac

Ćićevac

court before the birth of Serbia Soko under Nemanjić’s Mozgovo sika dynasty. This is where Deligrad Aleksinac prince Lazar reigned before the Battle Kaonik of Kosovo. Zapadna Prekonozi Šiljegovac ŠEVAC Vreloand Južna Morava, parishes and fortresses Jakovlje surround it, from Pomoravlje Miljkov Beli Breg to Kosovo, from modern to vnište everlasting Serbia. Or the other way around... You can choose where to G. Jošanica go but you shall find blessing earth, V. Plana fine and cheerful people everywhere. E75

Ražanj

NIŠ

Prokuplje Žitorađa

Brestova

Dubovo Zlata Dobra Voda

LESKOVAC Lebane

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Kruševac Not far from the Rasina river, that is, its confluence into the Zapadna Morava, stands Kruševac, one of the most significant fortified towns of medieval Serbia after the downfall of the Serbian Empire. According to one legend, the name of the town originates from pears (kruška) abundantly harvested in this area; according to another, the name comes from the krušac rock extracted from the Morava for building the medieval city. It is known that Lazar’s ”glorious town of my lordship” was built between 1371 and 1377 and that it was his capital. It is from here that most of the Serbian army started towards Kosovo in 1389, ”on the road leading from time to eternity”. ”The fortress complex, with an irregular basis, consisted of the Small Town, situated in the northeastern part, and the Large Town, which included the higher and upper space”, state the books. ”Only Lazar’s Tower or the Dungeon Tower was preserved from the Small Town, built with cobble stone.” Prince Lazar’s Court, with all accompanying buildings, was in the Large Town. Immediately besides the Court is the beautiful court church, famous by the name of Lazarica, preserved to the very day. This city had a turbulent history. After the Battle of Kosovo, it was conquered by the Turks (1389, 1413, 1425, 1426), Hungarians (1437), while sovereigns Stefan Lazarević and Đurđe Branković managed to return it to Serbian administration. After falling into Turkish hands in 1454, a year after Constantinople and five years before Smederevo, Kruševac became Aladža Hisar (colorful hill, colorful town) and the center of the region carrying the same name. In the First Serbian Uprising, at the beginning of 1806, it was liberated by the army under the command of Mladen Milovanović. Three years later, in 1809, Huršid-Pasha occupied it again. The final liberation was in 1833, under prince Miloš. The first Miloš’s town manager was Stojan Simić. Since then, ”the real small oriental town” started changing rapidly, in terms of urbanism and demographically. Crafts, commerce and education developed. In 1839, Gliša Jovanović opened his soap-producing workshop, which, after World War I, grew into the famous factory ”Merima”. The military factory ”Obilićevo” was founded in 1889. Already in 1856, the town got its ”Reading Room”. The School for Girls was founded the following year, the gymnasium in 1865. In the Gymnasium building, built in 1863 within the old

436

Center of Kruševac with the Monument to fallen warriors

Municipality Home of Kruševac

Kruševac’s center milieu

Allegory The Monument to the Kosovo Heroes – one of the symbols of Kruševac – is the work of the famous sculptor Đorđe Jovanović, who was awarded the Gold Medal of first rank at the International Exhibition in Paris in 1900 for this monumental artwork. Created in the spirit of French academism, this sculpture was inspired by the Serbian Kosovo epic. The figures of the Gusle Player and Young Girl at the foot of the composition personify Serbia. On the eastern and western side of the Monument are two relieves with epic scenes of the communion of the Serbian army and death of the Turkish sultan Murat. The cast fence around the monument is the stylization of the Kosovo peonies.

RASINA AND TOPLICA

437

dište Tekija Golubac

Brnjica

Radenka

Zelenik

Rakova bara

Boljetin

Kučevo

astirica Kučajno adurovo

Miroč

Majdanpek Donji Milanovac

Stamnica

Kula Jasikovo Vlaole

Bistrica

Brza Palanka Urovica

Sikote

Sige Žagubica

upaja

Bor

Salaš

Slatina Troglan Bara

Brusnik

Tamnić

Šipikovo

Zaječar Boljevac

Plana

Čitluk

Mozgovo Soko Banja

Aleksinac

Kaonik

Marinovac

Bučje

Vrbovac

eligrad

Lenovac

Bećevica Lastovo

Grabovo

E75

Negotin

Rečka

Brestovačka Zagrađe Banja Rgotina Vražogrnac Šarbanovac Podgorac Sumrakovac

Popovac

Koprivnica

Prahovo Radujevac

Trnjane

Tanda

tonje in

V. Vrbica Korbovo

Mihajlovac Klokočevac Jabukovac Plavna

Bukovska

Melnica

Kladovo

Petrovo selo

Knjaževac

Šarbanovac

Beli Potok

Žukovac

Šiljegovac

G. Kamenica

Vrelo

Jakovlje Beli Breg

Miljkovac

NIŠ

Svljig

Kalna

Ravno Balta Berilovac Bučje

East Serbia Ancient cultures and imperial towns, roman limes and a gold bearing river, vivid ethno-totalities and burning wine, mountains which stand like sphinx, as guardians over Serbia, ”Serbian Altamira” and famous health resorts – are all symbols of this area. Mighty travelers always passed by it, but stayed as well, including the crowned ones, and the most important roads were built through it, including the imperial ones.

Kladovo Dunavska 16а, 19320 Kladovo /: 019/801 690  turizam@kladovocity.net  www.kladovo-turizam.org.yu Zaječar Trg oslobođenja ББ, 19000 Zaječar 019/421 521  019/421 712  toozajecar@verat.net Sokobanja Trg oslobođenja 2, 18230 Sokobanja 018/830 271, 833 988  018/830 271 o tks_sokobanja@beotel.yu, info@otks.org.yu  www.otks.org.yu

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Kladovo If you stand at the bank of the Danube in Kladovo, you may think you are somewhere at sea. The great river, at the gate of the Đerdap Gorge, is so wide, that the other bank cannot be seen. In Kladovo, the Danube seems endless, invincible, powerful, it is a sight that will leave you breathless. About 10.000 inhabitants live in Kladovo today. Tourists are mostly attracted by the magnificent Đerdap Gorge and one of the largest hydroelectric power plants in the world. One shouldn’t forget a number of archeological sites and ancient monuments, among which the most important are the Diana fort and Tabula Traiana (Traian’s Board). National Park Đerdap One cannot speak about the National Park Đerdap without ardor. Four gorges (Golubac Gorge, Kazan Gorge, Sipin Gorge and Gospođin Vir), with three basins dividing them, make Đerdap the longest and oldest water breakthrough in Europe. The fight of the Danube to find its way to the Black Sea through the rocks must have lasted for centuries. That is why this Gorge is considered a natural park with the longest geological history on the continent. It is significant as a masterpiece of nature, but also as an open archeological museum, covering an area of 63.680 hectares. It is the biggest protected area in Europe. In the 2.800 km of its length, the Danube is nowhere as deep and as narrow as it is here. In Veliki and Mali Kazan (Big and Small Boiler), the river is as deep as 105 m. That is the biggest river depth in Europe. One shouldn’t forget that the oldest prehistoric settlement was discovered in the Đerdap Gorge, and that the greatest number of Roman monuments were preserved here… Tabula Traiana The first ones who dared to build a road through the Đerdap Gorge were the Romans. They left many monuments in this area. The road through the Đerdap region was supposed to provide calmer and safer sailing on the untamed river, but also to facilitate the war against Dacia. Among the numerous monuments that remained on Đerdap after the Romans, the most important one is Tabula Traiana, Traian’s Board. It is assumed that it was originally placed a meter and a half above the road leading along

462

Kladovo: center

Traian’s Board on the Roman Path

Gorge of Đerdap

Grandeur More than 1.100 flora and fauna species live in this natural park. Don’t be surprised if you meet a bear, lynx, wolf or jackal in Đerdap. The Đerdap Gorge is also a place inhabited by rare birds, such as the golden eagle and black stork. If you visit this natural park, you can collect extraordinary specimens of ancient plant species for your herbarium. Turkish hazel, southern nettle tree, Pančić maple, silver lime tree and downy oak grow in Đerdap, while especially valuable are very rare species of bushes.

EAST SERBIA

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Niš Voždova 7, 18000 Niš /: 018/524 877 018/523 118  ton@nistourism.org.yu  www.nistourism.org.yu

P Kravlje Cerje

Leskovik

G. Toponica

E75 Hum

Trupale

Lalinac

NIŠ

N. Selo Aleksandrovo

D. Vre

Čokot

Merošina

Gabrovac

E75

Malošište

i č e S e l

Orljane Doljevac

G. Barbeš

Niš The native town of the most important Roman emperor, the one who ”christened the Empire”, the biggest preserved fortress, the second biggest town in Serbia, a big economic and cultural center. Faithful to its southern roots, but facing toward Europe, ready for new challenges, Niš is calm in soul but passionate in song, being one of the most attractive towns in Serbia.

Popšica

Kamenica G. Matejevac

E80

D. Vrežina

Niška Banja

i c a v e č Gadžin Han

beš

Kraslavce

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Imperial Town According to tradition, a prince Niša, who might have been Dardanian, built this magnificent city with stone from a nearby small hill. Another story claims that the town’s name comes from a Celtic name for a river, which passes through – Navissos. The Romans – who have continued the chain, which began with the culture of Humska and Bubanj, then, Dardans and Celts – called this town Naissus. The Byzantine version of the name is Nysos. According to documents we have today, the new Serbian name of the city is only an adaptation to the Serbian language: the River Nišava – the town of Niš. Niš has always been an important traffic intersection. Along with its vicinities, it had been inhabited back in the pre-historic times, as evidenced by archaeological findings, and during Roman times, it flourished as a strategically important location. In the year 140, Ptolemy notes that Niš was one of the four biggest towns of the province Dardania. Constantine the Great was born in Niš, and during his reign (312-337), Niš experienced a great political, economic and cultural bloom. Besides the important archaeological locality of Mediana, there is an early-Christian mausoleum in the town and in the Niš Spa and a basilica, as well. The breakthrough of Barbarians on the soil of Europe and the Balkans did not spare Niš from destruction. Huns and Avars ravaged it and by the middle of the 6th century, slaves had settled it (the presence of Slavs on the territory of the Balkans, and even on the territory of Niš, will stay inexplicable). During the Middle Ages, this territory was within the borders of Byzantium, Bulgaria, and Hungary. Niš was in Serbian hands in 1185, but only for a short period. In 1189, Great župan Stefan Nemanja received German Emperor Fridrich I Barbaros, who had been leading an army in the crusades. Stefan Nemanja built in Niš the Church of St. Panteleimon, on which foundation the new temple was built in 1871. From 1241, Niš was a Serbian town for a long time. Turks occupied the city in 1385, following a twenty-five year long blockade. Despot Đurađ Branković and the Duke of Erdelj Janos Hunyadi, known as Sibinjanin Janko in national poems, had succeeded to liberate Niš in 1433, but that freedom was short lived. Niš was under Turkish control until 1878.

484

Niš, fortress panorama

Constantine the Great, Roman Emperor, born in Niš

University building in Niš

Mayor’s Office

The Fortress On the right bank of the River Nišava, on the remains of old antique and medieval fortifications, the Turks built a Fortress (1719-1723) which is one of the most beautiful and most preserved old fortifications in the Balkans. The Fortress has a convex base, with eight bastionterraces and four big gates (Belgrade, Vidin, Stambol and The Great Gate). The length of the rampart is 2,100 meters, the height 8 meters and the average width of the wall is 3 meters.

NIŠ

485

Leskovac Masarikov trg nn, 16000 Leskovac /: 016/233 360 016/233 361  toleskovac@sezampro.yu Pirot Dom kulture, Ulica Srpskih vladara 77, 18300 Pirot /: 010/320 838  topirot@cnps.co.yu

Miljkovac

Beli Breg

Svljig

NIŠ

V. Plana Gadžin Han

Prokuplje Brestovac

Žitorađa

Vranje 29. novembra nn, 18500 Vranje /: 017/417 545 017/545 505  t ov@gradvranje.com, office@gradvranje.com

Bela Palanka

Donji Dušnik

Dubovo E75

Zlata

Ravna Dubrava

Dobra Voda

Vlasotince

Bojnik

LESKOVAC Lebane Medveđa

Miroševce

Vučje

Crna

Tulare

Vladičin Han

Sur

Golemo Selo Ajnovce do

G. Šipašnica G. Kačarevo

VRANJE

Gnjilane

Kriv

Vranjska Banja D. Trebišnje

Bujanovac Preševo E75 Letnica

Kobrevac

Petka Prohor Pčinjski

D. S Trgovište

Southeast Serbia Ravno Bučje Balta Berilovac

Between Kosovo, Niš and borders with Bulgaria and Orlja Temska Dojkinci Glama Macedonia lies this vivid area with many a E80 anka Visočka Ržana unexpected treasures. Pirot One of the most Smilovci temperamental Serbian Sukovo regions marked by the Babušnica na ava Raljin towns of Leskovac, Dimitrovgrad nce Vranje and Pirot, with its characteristic language, Zvonce Jabukovik cuisine, music, costumes and Kalna understanding of the world. Crna Trava Behind it all is an infinite soul which is waiting to be revealed. Pajež

Surdulica

Kriva Feja

Izvor Bosilegrad

G. Ljubata Radovnica D. Stajevac

ovište

Bistar

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Leskovac Leskovac is the biggest settlement in the area of southeast Serbia, which lies in the middle of a fertile valley, in the shadow of the Hisar Hill. Reliable historical information of this region comes from the middle of the 12th century when Byzantine Emperor Manuel I Comnenus (11431180) gave Dubočica, the area around Leskovac, to Stefan Nemanja. In September 1454, Nikola Skobaljić commanded the Dubočica army in victory against the Turkish army of Mahmed II. In retaliation, the sultan himself led another attack against Dubočica, succeeding this time and in the process capturing and enslaving Skobaljić. Leskovac was liberated from the Turkish authority on the 23rd of September, 1877. At that time, it was the second biggest town in Serbia, right after Belgrade. New social circumstances, a capital increase and a need for improved living conditions all fed into an inspired period of building of the town. Leskovac was ruined in 1944 during an allied forces bombing campaign of the Anglo-American forces – the biggest part of the city was ruined, leaving only a few 19th century buildings as a testament to the special beauty of this town. The House of Bora Dimitrijević-Piksla, in which a Museum resides today, is more than 150 years old. It belongs to a clear type of Balkan style houses; it has a cellar, ground floor and the first floor, with two bay windows toward the street. A second floor-porch is supported by wooden columns faces the yard and the construction out of wood is original, including a waterwheel built into the wall of one of the rooms. Today the valuable items excavated at the Empress’s City archaeological site are exhibited in this building. The house of Pop-Đokić is from the same period. It has a typical facade with an open porch on the first floor. Nicely decorated ceiling with wooden rose windows and niches in the walls are parts of the original looks of the interior. Many other buildings were built between the two world wars – the Economic Court is housed in the former house of Ljuba Marinković built after the project of Branislav Kojić in 1938; the Villa Teokarević, signed by Grigorije Samojlov; the house from 1932 belonging to the famous metals tradesman Toma Stanković, as well as the Modern-styled three storied house with mansard finished in 1941 and known as Garet’s palace.

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Leskovac: panorama

Monument to Serbian warriors from struggles for liberation 1912-1918

Leskovac: town center

Cathedral Church of the Holy Trinity

The Serbian Manchester The textile industry flourished, specifically its cord factories, for which Leskovac gained the moniker the Serbian Manchester. In 1880, the Textile School was founded, and the first Textile Factory started working in 1896. At the beginning of the 20th century there were basis for the new industrial field – the chemicals and cosmetics industry.

SOUTHEAST SERBIA

499

State Coordination Center of Serbia for Kosovo and Metohia  011/310 89 29  011/310 89 26  info@kc.gov.yu  www.kc.gov.yu

Leposav

Eparchy of Ras and Prizren  info@eparhija-prizren.com  www.eparhija-prizren.com

Kosovska Mitrovica Vrela Istok Banja

Peć

Bela Polja

Đurakovac Klina

G. Klina Srbica

O Glogovac Orlate

Dečane

Đakovica

Orahovac Suva Reka

Štim

Štrp

Prizren

Kosovo and Metohia

osavić

ka ca Vučitrn

na a Obilić

vac Kos. Polje

ate

A country of churches and a church country. A country of sacrifices and accomplishments. A country of the Crucifixion and the Resurrection. A country where it is most difficult to defend Christianity in Europe. This area is not only a part of Serbia, but also its stone sacrament built in the foundation and without which it is impossible to survive Podujevo the horrors of this world. Kosovo is the basis of Serbian soul, country, ethics, religion, culture. If you do not understand this, Priština you do not understand a thing about Serbia. Kos. Kamenica

Gnjilane Štimlje

Uroševac Štrpce

Touring SERBIA by Roads, Railways and Rivers

Temple Country The country beside which the medieval christened Serbia was born and in which it reached the top, today is a southern Serbian district. There are so many amazing Orthodox churches in Kosovo and Metohia so that the whole country is a church. That is exactly what they call it: a church country. From the end of the 14th century, at the time of the famous Battle of Kosovo (1389), it is a wounded country. A country of sacrifices and accomplishments. A country where it is most difficult to defend Christianity in Europe. A great number of the Serbian Orthodox population, as well as members of ethnic minorities, were brutally expelled from the District. These who have stayed, despite all circumstances – more than 100 thousand Serbs – live in concentration camp conditions, without any elementary human rights. This situation sometimes turns into a violent act or a pogrom, like the one from March 2004. Since the southern Serbian district has been under protection and protectorate of the UN (from 1999), more than 140 Serbian churches and monasteries have been destroyed! Fifteen of them were cultural monuments of the first category (built in the 14th, 15th and 16th century), and 23 of the second category. Only in the pogrom of March 2004, 19 monuments of culture and religion were destroyed – six of them were of the first category! Even after all that, there are plenty things to see and witness in Kosovo. Unfortunately, we cannot recommend you to travel to Kosovo without an escort of NATO soldiers or UNMIK police force. Therefore, we shall present you only a small part of what you should see in Kosovo, which is everyman’s treasure, wherever he comes from, and the very life and essence of the Serbian people. By the way, this is the area with the largest number of monuments of Orthodox culture and religion. Just a small part belongs to the inheritance of the Roman and Ottoman Empire. The number of cultural monuments of the Albanian inheritance ”is hardly visible” – only a few fortifications from the 19th century. The district includes several regions. In the northern part of Kosovo, the biggest towns are Priština and Kosovska Mitrovica. In the part around the Morava, the center is Gnjilane. The southwest part is Metohia (it got its name from a

524

Miloš Obilić

Prince Lazar

Map of Serbian Orthodox sacred places in Kosovo and Metohia

The Battle of Kosovo in 1389

Map of destroyed Serbian Orthodox churches in the pogrom of March 2004

Foundation ”For the Serbs, Kosovo and Metohia are not only a part of the territory, a part which can be measured, compensated with another territory, expressed in a politically or economically useful equivalent. Beyond time, époques, history, temporary hierarchies of power, Kosovo and Metohija are, for the Serbian Orthodox people, that stone-sacrament, which is built into the foundation, and without which there is nothing left in the storms of this world.”

KOSOVO AND METOHIA

525

SERVICE INFORMATION BAČKA Subotica Park narodnih heroja 9, 24413 Palić  024/9861, 670-350, 753-111, 753-119  024/670-350, 753-474  ticsu@yunord.net, jp.palic@tippnet.co.yu  www.palic.co.yu “PBG”***, Harambašićeva 21,

024/556-542 “Patria”***, Đure Đakovića “Sveti Sava”, Cultural Center of Serbia, Trg Slobode 2,  024/556-117 “Nepker”, Cultural Center of Hungaria, Trg Lajoša Košuta 4,  024/557-033 “Bunjevačko kolo”, Cultural Center of Croatia, Preredovićeva 4,  024/555-589

(92

(93

“Alfa”,  9788 “Bus”,  9786 Franja Supila 2,  024/561-152 “Nacionalna štedionica”, Korzo 5,  024/554-685 “HVB”, I. G. Kovačića 3 “Agrobanka”, D. Tucovića 2,  024/671-340 “Rаiffeisen”, Senćanski put 15,  024/600-800 Vehicle services Fiat, Lancia, Alfa Romeo “Urošević”, Braće Radića 77,  024/525-146, 553-697 Cara Jovana Nenada 2-4 (salon),  024/552-543

Modern Gallery “Likovni susret”, Lenjinov park 5,  024/553-081

Vehicle service Porsche “Inter Car”, Fočanska 23

National Theatre, Ive Vojnovića 2, Subotica,  024/553-081  www.pozoriste.subotica.net Children’s Theatre, Lenjinov park 12,  024/555-715

ASC, Dušana Krnajskog 1, 24000 Subotica 024/566-599, 566-902,  024/566-824 o ffice@asc.co.yu predrag.aleksic@asc.co.yu

Senćanski put 5,  024/555-566 Lenjinov park 15,  024/555-606 Prvomajska 2-4,  024/640-011 Border Crossing Horgoš,  024/792-036 “OMV” , Beogradski put,  024/557- 477 “Lukoil”, Palićki put,  024/753–444 “Lukoil”, Šandor,  024/566–277 “NIS”, Mali Bajmok,  024/561-653 “NIS”, Senćanski put (near the Court), 024/555-235

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PS “Palić – Ludaš”  024/753-119, 554-809  jp.palic@tippnet.co.yu  www.palic.co.yu PALIĆ LAKE  “Prezident”****, Lovranska 2,  024/622-662 “Park” and “Jezero”****, Park Narodnih heroja 9,  024/753-112 “Majkin Salaš”, Palić salaši 294, 024/753-672 “Gostiona” Narodnih heroja 15, 024/753-245

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“Palić”, Josipa Kolumba 33,

024/753-211 “Čoka”, Segedinski put 80,

024/546-555 “Vinski dvor”, Hajdukovo бб, 024/754-762 “Vinum Lodi”, Njegoševa 36, Feketić, 024/738-276

SERVICE INFORMATION Venac Radomira Putnika 27,

 025/440-668 Venac vojvode Petra Bojovića бб,

 025/25-665 “Kallos”, Staparski put nn,

 025/22-722 “Lukoil”, Filipa Kljajića nn,

 024/753-070  024/754-007  024/755-055 “Vojvođanska”,  024/754-113 “NIS Naftagas”,  024/754-132 Zoo “Palić”, Krfska 4, Palić,  024/753-075,  www.zoopalic.co.yu

 025/22-783 “NIS Petrol”, Venac vojvode Petra Bojovića,  025/433-270 “NIS Petrol”, Filipa Kljajića nn,  025/431-710 “NIS Petrol”, Konjovićeva nn,  025/459-140 Border Crossing “Bački Breg”,

 025/809-098, 809-008 Border Crossing “Batina”,

Kanjiža, 24420 Kanjiža “Aquamarin“ *** , Narodni park бб,  024/873-123, 875-163 PH centar “Abella”, Narodni park бб, 021/871-027, 874-810 Sombor Trg Cara Lazara 1, 25000 Sombor  /: 025/434-350  info@somborvaros.org  www.somborvaros.org “Inter Nacion”, Trg Republike 1,  025/463-322 National Theatre of Sombor Trg Koste Trifkovića 2,  025/36-373,  025/24-977 “Milan Konjović”, Trg Svetog Trojstva 2,  025/422-728 Venac vojvode Stepe Stepanovića 32,

 025/28-810 Staparski put nn,  025/441-751 Železnički park nn,  025/28-922

 025/29-525 Border Crossing (river), Danube

 025/810-778 “Vojvođanska”,  025/22-733 “Kulska”,  025/25-331 “Intesa”,  025/420-809 Kayak club “Bezdan”, Kanalska obala nn,  025/811-110 Apatin Petefi Šandora 2/а, 25200 Apatin /: 025/ 772 555  apatintours@neobee.net  www.turizam.apatin.com “Vojvodina”, Miloša Obilića 1,

 025/773-262, 772-755 Dimitrija Tucovića nn,

 025/772-131  025/772-244 Junaković Spa, 25260 Apatin Rehabilitation center “Junaković Spa“, Nušićeva nn, 025/772-311

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