Višegrad, The Bridge on the Drina
година I • специјално издање • јануар 2013. www.nacionalnarevija.com
Special Edition, January 2013 Publisher: “Princip Press”, Editorial Office, Cetinjska 6, Phone: + 381 (11) 322 70 34, Fax: + 381 (11) 324 56 21 office@nacionalnarevija.com www.turistinfosrbija.com On Behalf of the Publisher: Mišo Vujović, Director and Editor-in-Chief Deputy Editor-in-Chief and Publication Editor: Branislav Matić Technical Editor: Aleksandar Ćosić Cover Page: Jovan Željko Rajačić Photography Editor: Dragan Bosnić Texts by: Milovan Vitezović, Dragan Nedeljković, priest Jovan Plamenac, Dragan Lakićević, Bojan Mandić, Petar Milatović, Jovo Bajić, Milena Z. Bogavac, Vojislav Filipović, Saša Šarković, Zoran Plavšić, Vlada Arsić, Dejan Đorić, Dejan Bulajić, Roza Sazdić, Dubravka Preradović, Željko Sinobad, Rade Bošnjak Translated by: Sandra Gagić & “Globe Translations“ Marketing: Mirko Vujović, Irena Stolić Distribution: Milenko Vasilić Office Secretary: Jelena Jović, Dragana Dimitrijević Printing: “Portal” (Beograd)
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Album BEAUTIFUL FACE OF HOMELAND
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Viewpoint MILORAD DODIK, President of Republika
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Backbones RAJKO KUZMANOVIĆ, President of the Academy
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Invitation TOURIST POTENTIALS OF SRPSKA
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Guide BANJALUKA
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Foundations NATURAL RESOURCES THE KEY TO DEVELOPMENT
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Symbols SYMBOLS OF REPUBLIKA SRPSKA
CIP - Каталогизација у публикацији Народна библиотека Србије, Београд ISSN = 1452-6905 Национална ревија Српска COBISS.SR-ID 139201804
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P r o l o g u e WITH THE ZEROTH EDITION OF THIS MAGAZINE
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PATRIARCH IRINEJ
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Reminder KING TVRTKO’S CROWN FROM MILEŠEVA
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Life, Novels COUNT SAVA VLADISLAVIĆ
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Lighthouses SAINT PETAR ZIMONJIĆ
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Old Masters MOMO KAPOR
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Poet of Childhood and Struggle BRANKO ĆOPIĆ
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Gifts TVRDOŠ WINE
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Lens SLOBODAN KRSTIĆ
Dictatorship of
Beauty and Goodness N
ational Review will enter Srpska on a holiday, on the Day of the Republic and on its Saint Day, but it is not a guest. The sister edition of Serbia – National Review, a bimonthly magazine the special edition of which (zeroth edition) is lying before you, comes from here. It will be a magazine that is, in its spirit and formula, different from anything you can now see in the current offer. Really different. It will not contain party politics and clans, black chronicles and cheap entertainment, betting and zodiacs, cheap thrills for masses. There will be no ingress of trading empire of kitsch and debauchery. We believe that the lowest common denominator of all of us, that “lowest rock of this people”, is not consumer’s basket. We do not underestimate its significance, but we want to say something more important about this country that emerged into reality from several-century long sleep. So, for god’s sake, what are we going to write about then?! Travel, heritage, culture and art, tourism, symbols, stories, exemplary people, creative people and their work, cities and landscapes, phenomena, melodies, epochs, gastronomies, wine... We will discover, both to ourselves and to well-intentioned foreigners, our art of living, an entire geo-poetics of Srpska. “Aware of everything and smiling despite it all, National Review will defend us where it is the most difficult: in our own eyes, from ourselves. From our indifference and negligence, provincialism and negative self-stereotypes. It will provide us with undisputable evidence that we live in a beautiful and important country, for us the most important in the world. It will teach us to recognize what is positive, good and beautiful in our lives and homelands, on the streets and in buildings, on faces of people that we encounter daily. It will help us preserve the ‘self-respect, which is the basis of every proper self-confidence’. It will sell neither darkness nor sugar coatings. It will look with loving, but also realistic eyes. It will be bright but not frivolous, serious but not difficult, accessible but competent.” Serbian cultural space is unique for us, above transience of political shapes and borders. Serbian literary language also, in all its variants, will be used here equally, without artificial change of authors’ voices into local “ijekavica” or “ekavica” dialects. There will be no division in to left and right bank, home country and krajinas, urban and rural, modern and traditional, young and old. This is a magazine of our simple, beautiful, normal Srpska. If anybody here should ever forget why we have fought so hard for this country, and why no price for it was too high for us, they will be reminded of the answer on these pages. s SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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A l b u m
Fish pond in Saničani near Prijedor Canyon of the Lim River Semberija, the granary of Srpska Hydro power plants “Bočac“ on the Vrbas and “Višegrad“ on the Drina
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ALL TYPES OF GENIUSES OF REPUBLIKA SRPSKE
Beautiful Face of Homeland B
éla Hamvas, one of the last true sages of Europe, wrote a wonderful book about five types of geniuses in his homeland Hungary, five genius loci. In this unusual national characterology he discovered and explained “the five-layerdness of his people”. He described five different “stylistic unities of environment – man – lifestyle” in the territory of his country. Truths thus crystallized he regarded as important elements of self-understanding. Every genius in a country, spirit of a place, represents a unity within the Unity. Everything there is connected, everything at the same time comes out of the other. Environment, lights, colors, plants, waters, cuisine, spices, wines, poetry, music, dance, temperament, type of humor, story, the manner of bonding and intimacy in a community, organization of settlements, life and work, type of housing, “access to the drop and seed”. How many types of geniuses does Srpska have? What makes the difference between Herzegovina and Krajina, Posavina and Romanija, Semberija and Dabar, Prijedor and Višegrad? How do they attract us, which part of them do we carry forever inside, why do we love them and with what kind of love? And what is, on a deeper and higher level, connecting them into such a strong Unity? To give answers to these questions to oneself and others, to always resubmit arguments and to observe the beautiful face of Srpska in a different way, that is in brief the editorial program of National Review. And even you are thinking about this while looking at these fascinating photographs by Slobodan Krstić. Bordering with poetry, they can also be regarded as our accession speech. s (B. M.)
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Bardača, natural reservation with 11 lakes in Srbac municipality
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National Park “Sutjeska“ and canyon of the river with the same name
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P A S T OR A L HIS HOLINESS SERBIAN PATRIARCH IRINEJ EXCLUSIVELY FOR “NATIONAL REVIEW”
Learning from
Republika Srpska “Srpska presents to the world the best ideas of our people. We, the Serbs, should also look up to Srpska in many respects. We hope that holy archdeacon Stefan, who is celebrated by Republika Srpska as its name saint, will help them resist all temptations. God bless those who are leading it and its people. They live together with Christ and know their journey and their goal”, said the Patriarch By: priest Jovan Plamenac
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is Holiness Serbian Patriarch Irinej (Gavrilović), successor of Patriarch Pavle on the throne of Serbian patriarchs, was born in Vidova near Čačak, on Assumption Day (August 28), 1930, from father Zdravko and mother Milijana. He was baptized with the name of Miroslav. He finished elementary school in his hometown, and gymnasium in Čačak. After gymnasium, he enrolled in the Seminary in Prizren, and then Faculty of Theology in Belgrade. After completing his studies, he served the military service, and was then appointed a lecturer in the Seminary of Prizren. That same year (1959), in October, he was tonsured by Serbian Patriarch German, and was named Irinej. Several days later, on October 24, he was ordained as an archdeacon, and on the Day of St. Petka (October 27), in Ružica Church on Kalemegdan, a hieromonk. After graduate studies in Athens, he was appointed principal of Monastic School in Ostrog Monastery in 1969. As the principal of Monastic School, he was appointed dean of Seminary in Prizren. He became the vicar of Patriarch German, with a title of Bishop of Moravica, in 1974, and the following year he was appointed Bishop of Niš. The Bishop of Niš Irinej became Archbishop of Peć, Metropolitan of BelgradeKarlovac and Serbian Patriarch at the session of the Holy Synod of the Serbian Orthodox Church on January 22, 2010. The enthronement ritual was performed on the SRPSK A SPECIJALNO IZDAWE 2013
next day in the Orthodox Cathedral in Belgrade, and ceremonial enthronement as the Patriarch of Peć on October 3, 2010 in the Patriarchy of Peć. Your Holiness, in the light of great temptations embodied in attempts to divide Serbian people into many dependent state units, how do you see today Republika Srpska, which is the most compact part of Serbian national being? We are witnesses to the fact that Yugoslavia disintegrated and that Serbian people have remained to live in several newly formed countries, but also the fact that they have remained much less numerous than they were before these unfortunate wars in the 1990’s, in those former republics. Many were ousted from their homes, and many, unfortunately, gave their lives. For Republika Srpska we could say that it supports and represents in front of the world the best ideas of Serbian people. We could even say that we, in Serbia, should look up to Republika Srpska in many respects. In these three years since we have been on the throne of St. Sava, we have visited all Dioceses of our Church, both in Republika Srpska and in the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. We are thrilled with what we have seen. There are many new temples and monasteries, but, more importantly, we have seen live Church and people who live for their Church, people witnessing Christ, who
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Delegation of “National Review” visiting the Patriarch: Mišo Vujović, Jovan Plamenac, Branislav Matić
rejoice despite all temptations and sufferings they went through. The people among which one can feel togetherness with the people in Serbia, Croatia, Montenegro, in short with Serbs no matter where they lived. In Republika Srpska, the Church is a stronghold around which our people gather, and even their leaders who persistently resist and withstand storms of powerful persons around the world who would, it sometimes seems, blow away this Republic. We hope that the Holy Martyr and Archdeacon Stefan, who is celebrated by Republika Srpska as its Name Saint, its protector, and through him the life giving God, will help
Blessing for “National Review” On the occasion of publishing the first edition of “SRPSKA – National Review”, His Holiness Serbian Patriarch Irinej received on December 28, 2012, a delegation from our magazine, which included director Mišo Vujović and editors priest Jovan Plamenac and Branislav Matić. We informed the Patriarchal about the basic postulates on which our publishing project is based and we thanked him for the confidence he placed in us by agreeing to give us an exclusive interview for the “zeroth edition”. – Blessed be the first edition of your magazine. It is our wish that, in these holy areas of Republika Srpska as well, it contributes to the said Christian values and good interpersonal relationships – said His Holiness.
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them resist all temptations. God bless those who are leading it and its people. They live together with Christ and know their journey and their goal. NATIONAL UNITY AND OPENNESS Republika Srpska, which as the result of maximum effort managed to protect the legacy of liberation war, primarily from attacks on its spiritual identity, has today become the spiritual stronghold for Serbian people? As we already said, national leaders in Republika Srpska understand the significance of the Church in the strengthening of spiritual identity of a nation. It is not easy to lead an entity in times when hatred emanates from many. We can overcome evil only with truth, justice, faith in God and hope. The Lord will bless the justice and truth and everything that is good. Immediately after foundation of Republika Srpska, wise people introduced religion in the curriculum of its schools. It has been like this for twelve years now and the results are evident, and they will be even more evident in the future. We will mention only one of these results: opening of Christian Orthodox gymnasiums, kindergartens and geriatric centers under the auspices of the Church.
Let us also add to this the good will of the government of Republika Srpska expressed in the process of restitution of property that the State had confiscated from the Church long time ago. The fullness of cooperation between the Church and Srpska has been here realized for the benefit of all people in this Republic. This cooperation is now the basis for the Church to show in all its fullness its potential that should serve for the benefit of all. Therefore, the Church is now facing great responsibility, like in all times. To what extent is the Serbian Orthodox Church, as the blood stream of Serbian people, managing to contribute with its to the unity of its entire national corpus? Our Holy Church is trying to preserve the unity of our people, divided, between mondialistic-existentialistic and spiritualnational being. Through centuries, and it is certainly the case today, the Church is doing everything it can so that we would remain as one. Strengthening of spiritual and national element in the spirit of Christian Orthodox Church is nothing else but a starting point for understanding with all people and communities. The national character for Christian Orthodox people is the starting point for opening toward the
entire world, and not some kind of pagan Church as chauvinism and theories of blood and soil the factor of that we have always been against. Thank national unity: God that this mission of the Church is toPatriarch Irinej day also supported by those who are leading on liturgy in Republika Srpska, as well as the Republic Nikšić, during of Serbia, and who are trying to strengthen the visit to the ties of Serbian people from both sides the Eparchy of of the Drina. We especially emphasize that Budimlja-Nikšić cooperation between the Church and the government of Republika Srpska, especially its president Milorad Dodik, is on a very high level. Generally, togetherness is in the nature of the Church, first in the family and then beyond, in the nation, and then between nations. It is necessary that we collaborate with everybody, to build active togetherness. Serbian Orthodox Church is trying to create a healthy and critical approach toward its people, but also other nations and communities in the world and around us. Christ loved all people, he died for them, Photographs: but at the same time he criticized the most Archives of the nation in which he was born as GodMan. The love of Christ later became the “National Review”, Photo Archive of basis for Christianity, which would spread the Government all over the world, preaching brotherhood of Srpska, with all people on this planet long before Dragan Bosnić this idea was taken over by some revoluSRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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P A S T OR A L tionary movements and ideologies in the past centuries. We must cooperate with everybody and build active togetherness.
Patriarchy and the Orthodox Cathedral in Belgrade
PERSISTENCE FOR HISTORICAL JUSTICE The Church reacted more sharply than the State to the pseudo-justice of the Hague Tribunal, which is blaming Serbian people for this past war. How do you explain this fact? The acquittal of Croatian generals Gotovina and Markač, as well as the commander of the so-called liberation army of Kosovo Ramuš Haradinaj, the Hague Tribunal removed the mask from its face and showed that it is actually – a political court. It violated both legal and ethical norms, thus defying the purpose of its existence. Certainly, with these rulings it provoked anger not only among Serbian people, but also among all righteous people. However, Serbian people must be persistent and show that these acquittals do not express justice. Anyway, so many people in the history evaded legal condemnation, but not historical justice. It is sufficient to remember Hitler and Stalin, who were never tried, but they did not escape the historical justice, and we hope God’s justice either Additionally, not, not accepting the separation of Kosovo and Metohija step-bystep, the Church is more adamantly protecting the wholeness of the territory of Serbia from its own government? Serbs in Kosovo and Metohija today live in a ghetto, which is known to everybody. Human rights, freedom as the ultimate achievement of contemporary civilization, as proclaimed in various charters of major international organizations, do not apply for the Serbs in Kosovo and Metohija. Serbian people and other non-Albanians in Kosovo and Metohija are deprived of their rights. They live in poverty and fear. As time goes by, we see that even Albanians will also get hurt if they raise their voice against injustice (all witnesses who testified against Haradinaj were killed). All this indicates that the self-proclaimed so-called Republic of Kosovo is nothing else but a community of injustice for most people who live in
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Храм Христа Спаситеља у Бањалуци Temple of Christ the Savior in Banjaluka
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it. With this we want to say that not only the suffering of the Serbs is hurting us, but the suffering of all decent and innocent people. Even today, although the war has long been over, nobody is prosecuted for killing Serbs. And all this before the eyes of the so-called international community, the proponents of human rights, the model of civilization progress. They condition our accession to Europe exactly with Kosovo and Metohija. However, in all this we must not forget that not all members of the EU have recognized Kosovo and Metohija as an independent state. As much as it seems hopeless, it is certainly possible to find a certain space for maneuvers exactly through those EU member states that do not recognize Kosovo and Metohija, but also other countries members of the United Nations. On the other hand, we must be aware that the current situation is unfavorable and is not developing for our benefit. This unfavorable position must be compensated with readiness for negotiations. Negotiations are necessary in order to help the Serbian and other persecuted communities in Kosovo and Metohija until the moment of final decision regarding the status. The wisest people that we have should be involved in such negotiations. We should be reminded that one hundred years of negotiations are better than one day of war. Serbian people have showed that they know how to fight knightly and bravely and that they are willing to die for freedom, for faith and for homeland. Now it is time for them to show that they know how to negotiate, opening the space for all those wise people who can have significant contribution in our efforts for establishing permanent peace in this part of the world. In addition to politics, a lot of spiritual effort and many years will be needed to solve the problem. It is necessary that we learn to live with each other in Kosovo and Metohija. To build the Christ’s invitation “to love thy neighbor as yourself ”. Only in such a situation we can imagine Kosovo and Metohija as truly a part of Serbia, spiritual and territorial. In every other situation, we will see Kosovo and Metohija either as a burden or as an area for some new battlefields. If we want Kosovo and Metohija to be what they SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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P A S T OR A L profoundly are, and it is the Holy Land – than certainly this area should be primarily a nursery of Christian virtues of love, mercy and cohabitation. This is today the greatest task that stands before Serbian Orthodox Church in Kosovo and Metohija: to consecrate the country with Christ’s love toward everyman. We must persist in our vision of Kosovo and Metohija as the opposite to the self-proclaimed Republic of Kosovo in which everybody is deprived of their rights. On the other hand, political leaders in Serbia must be aware of the responsibility they are assuming and decisions that may have far-reaching consequences. Therefore, it is our duty to warn, but also to make the God’s justice always present. TEMPTATIONS AND LESSONS FOR ALL MANKIND
The Ružica Church in the Belgrade Fortress: There, on the Day of St. Petka in 1959, the current Serbian Patriarch Irinej was ordained as hierodeacon
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What are the greatest challenges for Serbian people on both sides of the Drina today? Challenges or temptations that Serbian people are going through today – we can say – are temptations that Orthodox Christianity is going through, Christianity in general, as well as other people who are not Christians. Materialism, with all its doctrines, has infected a large part of the being of today’s civilization, especially gaining momentum after the French Revolution. It also brought atheism, and antagonism to religion, which escalated in horrible wars in the 20th century, and many other more local wars that we already mentioned, and which, unfortunately, did not spare us. Atheism also brought social systems that are destroying the foundations of the God given organization of people’s lives – in family, which is in crisis, and which needs to be helped. Degradation embodied in emphasizing the system of values that offers debauchery, fraud, sexual and moral depravity, gaining money at any cost, hedonism, drugs, in vitro infanticide, etc... That is why it is our duty to pray for our fallen brothers, so that God would open the eyes of their minds, and so the would honestly repent and step on a narrow road that leads to eternal life. At the end, your arch-pastoral message to the people and political leadership of Republika Srpska? SRPSK A SPECIJALNO IZDAWE 2013
Let us show love for people around us. Not all of us are the same, not everybody knows God, but we should know that it is God who created us. We are all God’s creatures, some are like this, others like that, but we are all His. And, since He loves us, why can’t we all love each other? Evil cannot be defeated with evil; it can only be defeated with goodness. And it is better that we suffer on the way of God, than to make injustice to others. Saint Sava showed us the road that we should follow, the road of Christ. Therefore, since we know the road, why are we wandering? The Lord, through his disciples, left us Gospel, his Soft word, which is so understandable to everybody and which directs us how to lead our life from the coming into this world until the moment when we leave it. The Holy Church ha also been teaching us, through centuries, what it is that we should do. That is why nothing should separate us from the Church, from Holy Liturgy on which we are listening to God’s words and participate in prayer and are getting united with eternally living God through the Holy Communion. And united with Christ we become new people, people who are in love with everybody. People who do not talk bad about their neighbors. Who do not envy. Who preserve the purity and sanctity of marriage and family. Who will not substitute faith with superstition. Who do not hate and do not cause injustice. Who preserve in themselves the image of Christ. Who will embrace their neighbor and forgive one another. Because, since God forgave us, how can we not forgive each other? That is why we love one another with love with which God loves us. In addition to love, other things that we also need today, as always, are peace and goodwill, as angels sang when Christ was born. Let us know and always remember: those who are not in peace with God and people, they are not God’s. They have peace on their lips, but their heart is filled with hatred and unrest. The more God we have in our hearts, the more peace there will be on earth. We are inviting our people in Republika Srpska to remain in the faith of Christ and faith of our holy ancestors. Because, if we grow in the faith of Christ, our love for God and for our neighbors will grow as well. s
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MILORAD DODIK, PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC, IN EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW FOR “NATIONAL REVIEW”
Only Srpska
Has No Alternative
In Srpska today freedom has a higher price than in Serbia, says a poet. Maybe exactly this is the reason why the President of Srpska has showed to all Serbian politicians how to defend legitimate national interests in front of foreigners. And Republika Srpska is getting stronger, despite all disturbances, and its position is strong. It cooperates with both the East and the West. In the world financial crisis and the fact that money is not a reliable for preserving the value of investment capital, it sees new opportunities for development By: Mišo Vujović, Branislav Matić
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e has been the President of Republika Srpska since November 15, 2010. before that, he was Prime Minister of Srpska on two occasions (1998-2001 and 2006-2010). he also performed a series of other responsible
duties, starting from 1986, when he was Photographs: Velibor Tripić, Archives of the youngest state official in Yugoslavia. He was born in 1959 in Banjaluka. He “National Review“ finished elementary school in Laktaši, high and Archives of the government school in Banjaluka, graduated from the of Srpska Faculty of Political Sciences in Belgrade. He SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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President Dodik talking to our editors
was decorated with the Order of Nemanjić, Order of Republika Srpska, Russian Order of Peter the Great. Serbian church decorated him with the Order of Saint Sava of the First Degree, and Jerusalem Patriarchy with the Holy Cross of the Guardian of Holy Sepulcher. On the occasion of the 21st birthday and Saint Day of Republika Srpska, he talked to the editors of National Review in the Palace of the Republic in Banjaluka. Today on its 21st birthday, how do you see international, regional and inter-Serbian positions of Republika Srpska? It is evident that the position of Republika Srpska has shown a trend of growing
Experience and Width You have a degree in political sciences. How useful is that background in operating politics and practical aspects of modern political technology? It certainly helps, but it is not decisive. There are many people who are successfully involved in politics, but do not have a degree form the faculty of political sciences or humanities. Like everywhere else, experience is important. It takes willingness and ability to be continuously informed and to follow different areas – from law to economy, so that you can successfully react to all the challenges that may appear before a politician and a state official.
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stronger, year by year, both politically and economically. I say “trend”, because in the past twenty one years there have been ups and downs, but it undoubtedly preserved the trend of growing and getting stronger. Our position in B&H today is stable and no decision can be made without consent of representatives of Republika Srpska. We are determined never again to allow political and legal violence, primarily of all high representatives who, in not so distant past, played a key role in devastation of Dayton Peace Agreement and unconstitutional transfer of authorizations form an entity to the state. One of former high representatives Paddy Ashdown was a leader in this. These are the moments when our position was weakened, but we managed to stop that trend and today we have a situation when we include on our agenda the return of seized accountabilities and affirmation of the original Dayton Agreement. I think that we have managed to significantly strengthen the position of Republika Srpska on regional level and establish contacts and concrete relations with all countries of the former Yugoslavia. Republika Srpska has been visited by presidents or prime ministers of all coun-
tries of the former Yugoslavia, we maintain contacts with representatives of the European Union, USA, Russia, China. Of course, in regional contexts, our relationship with Serbia is the most important. We consider Serbia our parent country and we want to build as good relations as possible with it in all areas. We are one people that was, against its will and by accident, divided into several countries. These are facts that we respect, but they cannot and will no prevent us to, in accordance with constitutional and democratic principles, continue and strengthen cooperation of Serbs who live in countries of the former Yugoslavia, as well as around the world. TAUGHT BY ALL EXPERIENCES Srpska entered its third decade, and resurrected new age Serbia entered the third century after the liberation and restoration. Still, many people in the Serbian corpus see Srpska as the more responsible and more upright state than the parent Serbia. How do you comment on this? As I said, Serbia is the parent country of all Serbs, and therefore Serbs from Republika Srpska, namely B&H. We want to
see politically strong and economically In Kamenstable Serbia, which will be a stronghold grad, in front of for Serbs from the region and the world. the monument to However, in the past twenty years, Serbia Russian volunteers has been facing numerous challenges on who gave their lives internal and external level. We all know for the freedom of Republika Srpska what these challenges are. Some of them, like the status of Kosovo, are still present today. In that period, Serbia was changing governments and political options, but the trend of making compromises before requirements of foreign factors, most of which were not on the side of Serbia, has remained. Serbian officials believed that the politics of dialogue and compromises would be accepted and that the ultimate agreement would respect at least a minimum of national and state interests of Serbs and Serbia. It turned out that this was not the case, and the question of Kosovo is a paradigm of such relation. Most western countries have recognized Kosovo, and the European Union went a step farther, by conditioning the progress in the process of accession with de facto recognition of Kosovo by Serbia. It is a humiliation for Serbia and Serbian people. It is the same people who, in two world wars, on the side of the allies, fought against NaSRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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B ELVEDERE zism and fascism, was a victim of genocide and suffered enormous human and material losses. It is obvious that all of this was not enough to respect at least the minimum requirements of the Serbian side. When we see what is happening in Serbia, and taught by our own experience in B&H, we in Republika Srpska have realized that all we can do is rely on ourselves and take a position in which we will not accept any compromises that could jeopardize our position. Believe me, it is not easy to withstand all the pressures that were and still are coming from representatives of powerful and influential countries and international organizations. This is not about our defiance, but awareness that if we make a compromise in certain issues – it means automatic loss for Republika Srpska. It is the politics that is supported by all citizens of Republika Srpska, but also recognized by many people in Serbia, from whom we receive support. After disintegration of Yugoslavia, Serbian ethnic and historical areas were again politically dismembered, but Serbian cultural space was and has remained united. Has enough been done to empower, deepen and institutionalize that unity? Formal-legal base for all types of cooperation, including cultural, is the Agreement on special and parallel connections between Republika Srpska and Serbia. Culture and education are areas in which a lot has been done, but certainly we can do more. It is now up o cultural workers and institutions to find ways to conceptualize this cooperation in a creative and useful manner. As for education, we should work more on coordinating school curriculum and teaching programs in elementary and high schools and faculties in Republika Srpska and Serbia. I would like to use this occasion to remind about numerous successful projects of Republika Srpska and Serbia – from privatization of “Telekom Srpska” and arrival of “Hemofarm”, to completion of numerous infrastructural projects, such as the construction of school and sports hall on Pale, cross-border cooperation projects, building bridges and the like. Also, the procedure for obtaining Serbian citizenship has been improved. When we talk about the unity of our people, we must also mention Serbian Orthodox Church,
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which has remained the most serious institution of our gathering and unity. GEOPOLITICS OF THE BRIDGE BETWEEN WORLDS In its development strategy, it seems, Srpska has been very successful in balancing between the East and the West, following the St. Sava’s morale about the “East for the West and West for the East”. Are you satisfied with this balance and the level of presence of the countries of the East, primarily Russia and China, in the economy of Srpska and Serbia? Our strategy is largely conditioned with our geopolitical position. This is how it was
in the past and it is still this way now. We are surrounded by countries that are members of candidates for membership in the European Union. Such a position largely determines our movements. Membership in the European Union is one of those directions, but certainly not the only one. Additionally, when we see what is currently happening in the Union, the division into rich and poor countries, political disputes, our enthusiasm is not out of place. We are not inclined to unconditionally accept the politics that there is no alternative to the European Union. For us only Republika Srpska has no alternative. When it comes to the welfare of Republika Srpska, we are
ready to cooperate and we also collaborate with countries that are not members of the European Union. Russia and China, the countries that you mentioned, are only some of these countries. I must emphasize that we have excellent relations with both Russia and China. These are, on one hand, countries with a principled and objective position on relations in B&H, and on the other hand they belong to economically strongest countries. I am glad that Russian and Chinese investors are interested in Republika Srpska. As you already know, Russian company “Zarubezhneft” participated in successful privatization of oil industry in Republika Srpska; we are preparing the SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
Palace of the Republic in Banjaluka
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B ELVEDERE project of gasification with “Gazprom”, through construction of a branch of gas pipeline “Southern Stream” through Republika Srpska; Russian “Sberbanka” has been present in our banking sector through the purchase of “Folksbanka”. Chinese companies, supported by “Chinese Development Bank”, are also present in Republika Srpska on certain projects. We are hoping that this is just the beginning and that we will manage to contract more significant investments from Chinese companies and Chinese government. When it comes to Russia and China, it is very important that their assistance and investments have never been politically conditioned, as was the case with Western partners. Many commercial, tourist, cultural and other potentials of Srpska are not well known either in the Serbian corpus on the Balkans, or in the diaspora of four million. If you agree with this assessment, how is it possible to correct and overcome this? To a large extent, you are right. We have dedicated a lot of attention to the promotion of Republika Srpska in the world, especially in the last few years. Of course, it is far from being enough, but we are unfortunately limited with our financial abilities. Lobbying and tourist presentation require significant resources, and the results are visible only in the long run. There is often not sufficient understanding locally for the financing of such activities. We have permanent economic representative offices of Republika Srpska in Belgrade, Moscow, Brussels, Stuttgart, Vienna and Jerusalem, and through them we are trying to attract local citizens and businessmen to cooperate with Republika Srpska. We will continue to work in that direction and try to use more the potential of Serbs in the diaspora. BRANDS OF SRPSKA, OLD AND NEW
In front of the model of Kamengrad (Andrićgrad) and laying of the foundation stone for it
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What do you think are the most important brands of Srpska? It is difficult to give a concise answer to this question. It is obvious that we can primarily offer natural beauties and treasures, which provide possibilities for mountain, wellness and ethno tourism, hunting and fishing. We can also offer good quality local food, wine and honey. Even this requires investments in promotion and cer-
tification of our products, so we cannot expect quick results. However, some progress has been made. The Olympic mountain of Jahorina is a good example. There is also “Andrićgrad” project which has been progressing well thanks to cooperation between Republika Srpska and director Emir Kusturica, and which had had results before it was even completed. We have good quality wine cellars, ethno villages and beekeeping cooperatives that have become well known regionally. One of the major problems today is the one in Montenegro, which is currently undergoing a process of artificial and semiinvoluntary “identity conversion” of Serbs or “refraction into the brain”. What is your opinion about this and what are the relations of Srpska with official Montenegro? Relations between Republika Srpska and official Montenegro are good. We do not have open issues that could jeopardize these relations. We want good cooperation with Montenegro in all areas. We consider Montenegro a friendly country and we want our r elations to be even better. We have been historically and geographically interdependent. We do not want to interfere in internal affairs of this country and we believe that their poetical structures and legitimately elected representatives should find solutions for all possible problems, among which is the status of Serbs and Serbian language in Montenegro. CRISIS IS ALWAYS AN OPPORTUNITY With personal example, dignified and resolute attitude, you have shown to all local Serbian politicians how to talk to the international factor and defend legitimate national interests. How did they – Serbian politicians – respond to this positive example of yours? Thank you for thinking that way. After such a long time spent in politics and on different functions, I have realized that others will respect you if you have an opinion. I am well known for speaking my mind, which is not so common in politics, and according to many also not useful. Human character is very important and it largely determines one’s behavior in private life, but also in his work. And my job is politics, which also entails public appearances. Some people like
With Emir Kusturica: President Dodik supervises progress of works in Andrićgrad SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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Once, if the Time Comes Good state official is always, in a certain sense, a visionary. Can you imagine yourself in the future as a candidate for the President of United Serbian Countries? I am primarily a realist. And the reality is Republika Srpska, as a part of the state union of B&H. It is difficult to say what the future will bring. Maybe sooner or later historical circumstances would be such as to allow the realization of what you are suggesting in your question. If that happens, it is less important who the candidate will be, but how we will seize that opportunity.
them some don’t. As for the opinion of Serbian politicians about my appearance, the best thing would be to ask them. My appearances may sometimes be emotional, and to some extent they are determined by the fact that, as noted by author Milovan Danojlić, freedom has a higher price in Republika Srpska than in Serbia.
In the Memorial Room from Russian volunteers in Višegrad
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In this and in the upcoming decade, based on your estimates, what will be the major challenges, and what the most important opportunities for Srpska? It is obvious that the entire world is facing the economic and financial crisis, the end of which is not yet in the horizon and the outcome of which is still uncertain. In such a context we should observe the position of Republika Srpska and challenges ahead. Our economic recovery largely depends on recovery of world markets. Every
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crisis is at the same time an opportunity, and our opportunity is to attract as many as possible foreign investors who have money and who want to insure that money, the actual value of which is now challenged, especially now, by investing in production capacities, energy sector, production of food. Croatia will become a member of the European Union next year. It is a challenge for us but also a chance to make profit, as was done by some other countries which did not border with the European Union, before becoming its members. Accession to the European Union, for Republika Srpska, is at the same time one of the major political trials, because some are trying to use this process for political modeling of the country. This is primarily related to attempts at centralization and transfer of authorizations from an entity to the state. We have reviewed very carefully all aspects of this process and we will certainly not allow ourselves to be deceived. Continuous attempts of politicians from Sarajevo to change the Constitution and revitalize the Dayton Agreement, with help from their political sponsors from certain countries, as well as attempts at majorization of Serbs, but also Croats, will certainly not be continues. If we in Republika Srpska are united, I am sure that we will be able to stand up to those challenges. s
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DR RAJKO KUZMANOVIĆ, PREDSJEDNIK AKADEMIJE NAUKA I UMJETNOSTI REPUBLIKE SRPSKE
Cultural Pillars
of People and State
The highest institution of science and culture of Serbian people west from the Drina does not allow itself to be value-neutral and indifferent. All of its projects – from the field of new materials and nanotechnologies, through heritage of the great Serbian names in world science, to preservation of Serbian language and alphabet – were conceptualized as a strong incentive to spiritual and material development of Srpska. Encyclopedia of Republika Srpska, which is well under way, will be the crown of previous activities of the Academy By: Sandra Kljajić
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cademy of Arts and Sciences of Republika Srpska (ANURS) was founded in 1996. Its major goal was to apply universal values of science and arts in the development of pr country, says academician Rajko Kuzmanović, president of ANURS, for National Review. Since its establishment, the Academy has realized numerous projects of exceptional importance for Srpska. Its members are very renowned local and foreign creators, among others Emir Kusturica, Peter Handke, Filip Govorov, Gerald Pollack... The Academy was established with a task to develop science, improve arts and maintain culture, spirit and creative potentials of its people. In what ways does it fulfill its tasks? Since ancient Greece, Academy has been the highest scientific and artistic institution, the leader in cultural development. ANURS has also assumed such task. It is performing it by complying with general, many times verified criteria in world science and art, but also concrete activities in the area of science, education, research, contemporary technologies, economy, art, historical analysis from recent and distant future... All this is based on definite data and objective truth.
Capital Projects – In the past years, the Academy has realized about twenty projects of exceptional significance, thus taking the role of the leader in the area of arts and sciences, but also an active participant in important questions for Republika Srpska. PI will mention only some of these projects: “Dayton Peace Agreement as the legal and political basis of development of RS”, “Protection of Language and Alphabet in u RS”, “Alternative Energy Sources as a Model of Sustainable Development of the Countries in the Western Balkan”, “Harmonization of Local Regulations with the legislation of the European Union”, “Quoted Researchers in Republika Srpska”... Some projects were classified as permanent tasks of the Academy. For example, projects “Researching Serbian dialect complex of B&H” and “Material about Bosnian past” have been continuously in progress for six years – says academician Rajko Kuzmanović, president of ANURS.
In the field of science, the developmental component is reflected in studying of new materials, nanotechnologies, analysis and application of inventions of great local and world scientists – Tesla, Pupin, Milanković, Cvijić, Pančić... In the field of culture, we give special attention to language, alphabet, literature, spiritual values, all elements of identity of our people. The Academy does not allow itself to be valueneutral and indifferent. Its permanent activity is strong incentive to spiritual and material development and stability of Republika Srpska.
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From the meeting at the Academy
The principle program concept of the Academy is clear. How to you, from the inside, see its role? Permanent goals of activity and works of ANURS are development of scientific thoughts, nurturing arts and stimulating cultural development, studding important issues in the area of science and arts, participating in the process of formulating the politics of general development in RS, stimulating and coordinating work on long-term projects from various areas, realization of inter-academy and international scientific collaboration... An important element of work is organizing scientific meetings and publishing appropriate publications n current legal, political and historical issues. Some of these already
Works in Progress – Significant part of currently ongoing activities of the Academy includes scientific-research projects important for Republika Srpska: “Encyclopedia of Republika Srpska”, “Energy potentials of alternative sources – sun, wind and biomass” and “Reproductive health in RS”. We are about to finish the edition Works by Nikola Koljević, anthologies Twenty Years of the Republic – Challenges and Perspectives, Ivo Andrić between East and West, Language and Alphabet in RS, and History of the Academy. There is currently an open exhibition of painter Zoran Egić – says academician Rajko Kuzmanović.
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realized subjects are: “The division of responsibilities between the institutions of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Entities”, “Republika Srpska – ten years after Dayton Peace Agreement”, “Annexation of B&H – one hundredth anniversary”, “Resources of RS”, “The ruling of the European Court of Human Rights in Sejdić–Finci Case” “Country of the Pavlovićs”, “Serbian spiritual space”. ENCYCLOPEDIA AS A MEASURE Both scientific and political instances in the world warn that 2013 will not be easy. What are the priorities of ANURS in this year? Profiling of the Academy in accordance with European standards is a project that we have been working on for several years, and we will continue to do so in this year as well. Thanks to significant progress in this, the Academy has become a developmental pillar in our Republic, well known and recognized across Europe. Our program priorities are accelerated work on the completion of the Encyclopedia of Republika Srpska, scientific meeting dedicated to current constitutional, legal and historical issues, publishing of scientific monographs and anthologies, scientific
and research projects from the field of energy, materials, language and alphabet... We will also strengthen international (interacademy) cooperation, for example with the association that gathers academies of Danube countries. Encyclopedia of Srpska is a big project? Encyclopedias are published only by cultural and scientific institutions with strong human and material resources, such as national academies or lexicographic institutes. In Republika Srpska we think that ANURS has grown into such an institution and that it can assume such a demanding project. Encyclopedic editions in all countries of the world are one of the most important sources, bases with reliable data about the country and its people. Encyclopedia RS is one of the greatest and most significant long-term projects of the Academy, and it has great significance for Republika Srpska. Specificity of our Encyclopedia is reflected in the treatment of more than 3,000 inhabited places in 63 municipalities and cities in Republika Srpska, while other encyclopedias are focusing only on bigger cities. In this way, this publication will also be an identity card, cadastral and property blueprint of the Republic. All
areas of social life of the Republic will be covered, from economic to cultural and educational, as well as people that belong in these areas. About 11,000 entries have been registered by now, and we are planning to have about 20,000 entries. All this will be published in three to four volumes. About 2,000 entries for the first volume have already been finished, but also many others for the other volumes. About 300 associates are engaged in the preparation of the Encyclopedia.
From scientific meeting “Contemporary materials 2012“
CARE ABOUT TRUTH The Academy has a number of boards, cen ters and institutes? We are organized in four departments: Department of Social Sciences, Department of Literature and Art, Department of Mathematics and Natural sciences and
Energy – Following problems and trends in energy sector, in the past few years the Academy has worked on several projects in the area of renewable energy sources. They recently realized a project of a smaller solar power plant, which was mounted on the building of the Academy and connected with our laboratory for solar power. In this way we enabled continuous investigation of usability of energy of the sun in the area of Banjaluka.
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engineering and Department of Medical Sciences. Owners of these activities are departments of the Academy, namely boards and committees established within these departments. There is a total of 14 boards, with about 150 members, among which are members of the Academy, professors and researchers from universities in Republika Srpska, and well known artists and writers. Their engagement ensures god quality and comprehensive scientific and research work. In early 2011, four scientific and research institutes were established, as organizational units and not as legal entities: Institute for History, Institute for Social Research, Institute for Serbian Language and literature and Institute for Natural and Technical Sciences. They employ about 40 scientists and artists, but additional scientists and researchers from specific areas are engaged for realization of individual project activities. Among foreign members of ANURS there are many well known names. How do they contribute to the development and promotion of the Academy in the world? The Academy appoints as its foreign members renowned scientists and artists
from around the world, who gave a significant contribution in world science, but also development of scientific, artistic and educational thought Srpska. They are our important link with scientists from their home countries, in a way “ambassadors of science and arts” of Republika Srpska. They actively participate in our scientific meetings, transferring the most advanced knowledge from their areas to our scientists and researchers. A scientific meeting dedicated to World War One is also included in the plan? The unfortunate events in the Balkans at the end of the last century, and until today, there is a process of creation of a “new his-
Pres-center of the Academy of Arts and Sciences of Srpska
Salon and hall of the Academy
To Change or to Apply The Academy is also planning to organize scientific meeting entitled “Constitution of B&H – to Change or to Apply”? Yes. In addition to historical subjects, we are also actively involved in political-legal subjects. In the past five-six years we have organized about a dozen of such scientific meetings and published anthologies of articles from them. The program for 2013 also includes organization of the international scientific meeting that you mentioned. We believe that it will contribute to stabilization of political-legal situation in B&H, and indirectly to economic stabilization.
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International Cooperation – ANURS has active cooperation with the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences, Russian Academy of Sciences, Montenegrin Academy of Arts and Sciences, Royal Academy for Economy and Finances of Spain, Academy of Sciences of the Czech Republic, Slovakian Academy of Sciences, European Academy of Arts and Sciences, Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, Ukrainian Academy of Sciences for Higher Education, as well as other scientific institutions in the world. We have been accepted as a member of the International Council for Science (ICSU), the oldest association of scientific institutions in the world, and in this way we are connected with the most important national scientific institutions in the world. Also very significant is participation of our Academy in the world of the Danube Academies Conference.
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tory”, based on the revision and arbitrary interpretation of historical facts, namely forgeries. Strongly opposing the invasion of such “truths”, the Academy pays a lot of attention to historical subjects. It organizes scientific meetings and expert discussions, publishes scientific articles, anthologies, monographs. A significant historical subject for the Balkan region is “World War One – reasons, motives and consequences”, about which, together with the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences, we will organize an international gathering, most probably on Vidovdan 2014, in Višegrad. s
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TOURIST POTENTIALS OF REPUBLIKA SRPSKA
Abundance Waiting for Us As a forgotten beauty and contemporary homeland, Srpska emerges before us and is captivating. Noble and cultured, it is not prone to boasting and self-advertising. It has patience and dignity of a bridge builder. It knows that its beautiful cities and temples, waters and national parks, canyons and mountains, spa resorts and ethno villages must simply be discovered. And afterwards everything will come to its place by itself By: Vanja Vojinović
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Srpska has many excellent terrains for paragliding
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Hotel and swimming pool in Spa Resort Vrućica, Teslić municipality Ethno-village Stanišići Having coffee in Prijedor Train “Ćira“ near Dobrun
rpska is rich in unique natural beauties, national parks, spa resorts and cultural and historic monuments, and its tourist is thus diverse and rich. It offers almost everything – from adventure, ethno, ecology and spa, to cultural and religious tourism. A place for rest can be found here both by those who love peace and adventure lovers, those who are focused on nature and those who love to explore the spirit and charm of old local towns. Numerous archaeological findings and historical monuments are testimony to civilizations and peoples who have been populating the area of today’s Trebinje and its surroundings. This town has 29 national monuments, as well as the Museum of Herzegovina, which preserves great archaeological treasure. There is the Branković Tower from the 14th century, towers in Bugovina, Skočo’s Tower in Gomiljani. Trebinje also holds the Gračanica of Herzegovina, the monastery church of which is a faithful replica of the famous Gračanica from Kosovo, endowment of King Milutin. It was built in 2000, on Crkvina Hill above Trebinje, with a desire to fulfill the testamentary wish of Jovan Dučić, a famous poet from Trebinje, and it was done. His remains were transferred from the US and buried in the crypt of the monastery church. In the vicinity of the town there are monasteries Zavala and Tvrdoš. Frescoes in the Zavala church were painted in 1619 by Georgije Mitrofanović, a monk from Hilandar and a great Serbian painter. Monks of the reconstructed Tvrdoš Monastery took under their care the old vineyards in Trebinjsko polje (70 hectares) and planted as much as 60 hectares of new vineyards in Popovo polje, and the monastery today has two wine cellars that are famous far and wide. Bileća, the city with rich cultural past, stands out for necropolises of medieval tombs, near the entrance into the town, along the shore of the Bileća Lake. There is also Dobrićevo Monastery from the 13th
Bardača Priceless treasure of Srbac municipality and the entire Srpska is the famous Bardača, a natural reservation with 11 lakes, unique in this region, a rare area of nature with colonies of protected waterfowls, lake and other water flora and fauna. Bardača offers numerous possibilities for recreational tourism, and traditional Gastronomy Festival, which attracts numerous visitors, is organized here every year.
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century, with excellent frescoes, Church of the Holy Martyr Lazar and Heroes from Kosovo, Temple of Saint Sava, Church of the Holy Archangel Michael in Trnov Dol, Church of the Holy Prophet Elijah on a small island in the Bileća Lake. SANCTUARIES AND MEMORIALS Višegrad is one of the oldest inhabited places in today’s B&H. Famous for its bridge over the Drina and the novel about that bridge, for which Serbian writer Ivo Andrić was crowned with the Nobel Prize for literature in 1961. One of the major local tourist attractions is certainly Andrićgrad. Although still under construction, it has recently been opened for visitors. One can walk down the main street (Promenade), look at the buildings of the Andrić Institute, the City Hall, hotel, department store, as well as other buildings built in the spirit of old Serbian and European architectural heritage in this region. Magnificent Square of Nikola Tesla has been completed, and it is dominated by 2.4 meters high monument to the Nobel Prize winner Ivo Andrić. The city tavern “Goya” is also opened at the visiting time. Dobrun Monastery stands out among numerous sacral buildings of Višegrad and the surroundings. The settlement of Dobrun, established in the Middle Ages, is older than Višegrad, and the monastery itself dates back to the times of Serbian Emperor Dušan. Tourists should not miss a ride in popular “Ćira”, a train on narrow-gauge railway tracks, which runs from Mokra Gora, via Dobrun, to Višegrad. Tourists who visit Rogatica will also have a lot to see. In the area of the municipality there is the famous Bridge on Žepa, as well as necropolis with tombs Borak, Retep-Paša’s Tower, and another 87 sites with 2,628 tombs. And on the other side of Srpska, next to Krupa on the Vrbas, there is a monastery dedicated to Saint Elijah from the 14th century. The cascades of the Krupa and mills along this river are also a real attraction for the visitors of this small town. On the mountains between Teslić and Banjaluka there is Liplje, a Christian Orthodox monastery from the 14th century, for its architecture one of the most beautiful sacral buildings in B&H.
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Winter Olympic Centre on Jahorina, one of the cable cars
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The Capital The capital and the largest city of Srpska – Banjaluka – also called the “City of Greenery” (thanks to its numerous parks and alleys), will be a separate topic in this edition. On this occasion, let us only mention the pearly Temple of Christ The Savior, Banski dvor and Palace of the Republic. The Kastel Fortress in Banjaluka is one of the oldest buildings in B&H. With its unique urban spirit, as well as cultural, entertainment and other offer, Banjaluka is one of the most magnetic points in tourism of Srpska.
Turbulent history and cultural and historical heritage of the town of Laktaši can be seen in numerous local archeological sites. Most of them are in the valley along the Vrbas River, which stretches along the entire municipality of Laktaši, and divides it into two parts. One should certainly see the tombs in the necropolis of Osoje near Slatina, near a log church from the 18th century, as well as remains of Roman Thermae on Zidine, below Jelića brdo in Laktaši. In Doboj, our attention is attracted by the Gradina Fortress from the 18th century, reconstructed in early 21st century. It is a cultural and historical monument of high value, where one can see, among other things, replicas of old weapons and antiques. NATURE AND OTHER MIRACLES The rivers of Tara and Vrbas offer ideal conditions for adventure tourism. They enable combinations of various activities of this type, and they are drawn in all tourist maps of the world as top rafting destinations. Rafting is the best way for nature lovers to discover the charms of the Tara Canyon. The Vrbas River also offers great possibilities for development of sport, recreation and tourism. Because of its canyon, rapids and cascades, this is one of the most suitable rivers in Europe for white water kayaking. Conditions for rafting are also perfect, and in 2009 Banjaluka was the host of the World Championship in this sport. The fans of underwater world have a possibility to enjoy diving adventures. Canyons of the Vrbas and its tributaries, with steep slopes, are excellent for free climbing and mountaineering. The rivers of Drina, Pliva and Ugar are a real magnet for all fans of fly-fishing and fishing. SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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Below Kozara Moštanica Monastery, one of the oldest in Krajina, hidden on Kozara not far from Prijedor, was given its name after the small river on which it stands. Petar Pecija Petrović, leader of uprising against the Turks was buried next to the monastery church. Kozarac, also below the slopes of Kozara, is still dominated by the tower built in 1736, during extension of the former fortification.
On the Vrbas: Rafting, jumps from the bridge and fishing on white water A small lake in National Park “Sutjeska“
On the bank of the Sava
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Hydro-accumulation Perućac, created in the process of dividing the Drina River with a concrete dam, turned a part of this river’s basin into a 52 kilometers long lake. There is organized sailing on small boats on this lake all the way to the Višegrad Bridge. The Zvornik Lake is also very attractive. It is an artificial accumulation created through construction of hydro power plant “Zvornik”, on the narrowest part of the river, on the exit from the famous Canyon of Drina. There are excellent conditions for fishing (hucho, trout, carp, chub), swimming, kayaking competitions and other water sports. The town of Jezero, exactly at the point where the Pliva empties into the Great Pliva Lake, half-way between Jajce and Šipovo, is excellent for all those who want to escape from the city noise and relax next to the cascades of a mountain river, as well as for fishermen who want to try themselves in the catching of creek trout. In the valley, and still surrounded by a beautiful mountain range, this place provides excellent conditions for paragliding, mountaineering and mountain biking. In addition to the Pliva Lake, there are another two lakes nearby, the Big and Small Đol, extremely popular among fishermen. Although the Municipality of Foča is well known for the attraction of rafting on the Tara and Drina, its most important tourist jewel is “Sutjeska” National Park, with Perućica rainforest, and the mountains of Zelengora and Maglić, Volujak and Vučevo. With lots of wildlife and beautiful lakes full of fish, this national park, the oldest and the biggest in B&H, is very attractive for tourists, hunters and fishermen.
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In the vicinity of Foča, on the road to Sarajevo, there are sand pyramids which are, we may certainly say so, a unique natural wonder. Created for a long time, through soil erosion, combination of frosts, heats, rain and strong winds, these sculptures with interesting shapes are similar to those in Colorado, Dolomites and Đavolja varoš. Furrowed sand pillars rise from their wide foundations and narrow down toward the top, thus representing an exceptional geomorphologic rarity. CAVES, MOUNTAINS, WATERS In the vicinity of Teslić there is Rastuška Cave, with beautiful jewelry, in which significant bio-speleological species and paleontology excavations were discovered. The longest cave in Srpska is the Big Cave, and the biggest underground ice structure is Ledana pit in Ribnik municipality. In cave “Pod lipom”, they discovered Paleolithic engraved drawings, the oldest in the territory of the Republic. In addition to drawings, they also discovered stone tools, artifacts from the Lower, Middle and Upper Paleolithic. On the major road Šipovo-Kupres above the village of Vagan, on the altitude of 920 meters above sea level, there is Vaganska Cave. Typical karst cave, it is rich in mountain jewelry. It has eight units (Shepherd hall, Fox channel, Gallery of Simo Šolaja, Janjski channel, Ceremonial hall, Hall of the Giants, Abyss channel, Hall of Rade Marijanac).
Orlovača Seven kilometers away from Pale, Orlovača cave belongs to the group of largest and most beautiful cave systems in B&H. In its immediate vicinity is the spring of the Sinjevo Creek, behind the high rock of Orlovača. By now, around 2,500 meters of the cave hallway and channel have been explored. The jewelry of Orlovača, created over millions of years, is exceptionally rich.
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In the vicinity of Šipovo there is excursion ground called Janjski otoci, a fascinating combination of natural force and beauty, and not far from it, between Banjaluka and Prijedor, there is an attractive excursion ground Eco-Centre “Ljekarice”. It has nine pools suitable for fishing and water sports, and one of them has been developed as a swimming pool. According to estimates, Bara Gromiželj near Bijeljina is 450 million years old. It is a destination that nature lovers must not miss, a place with quick sand and habitat of rare species of fish “umbra krameri”. Olympic Centre “Jahorina” is a perfect place for the fans of winter sports. Ski slopes on Jahorina are suitable for both the beginners and professional skiers. Excellent terrain configuration, abundance of high quality snow, good climate, 20 kilometers of slopes for alpine skiing, as well as soft slopes, numerous hotels and restaurants, make this mountain one of the most beautiful and most famous ski resorts in the region. Vlašić Mountain, in Kneževo municipality, has forested pasture slopes with skilifts, excellent for alpine and Nordic skiing, snowboard and sledging. It is regarded as the first quality air spa, with a wide range of health benefits. Kozara, the mountain beauty near Prijedor, has been a national park since 1967. This very attractive mountain is the perfect destination for those who love nature and winter sports. It dominates this part of Srpska with its height, vastness and beauty. As a memory to Kozara soldiers who were killed defending the freedom, in the central part of the National Park, Mrakovica, there is the famous Memorial Complex (Monument, Memorial Wall and Museum), built in 1972. Borja mountain, near Teslić, is excellent for those who love nature and recreation, especially for skiers who like Nordic disciplines. The nearby Sports-Recreational Centre and Motel “Hajdučke vode” complement the offer. SPA RESORTS AND ETHNO TOURISM Since Roman times, thermal springs used to bring settlers and travelers to Teslić. Banja Vrućica is well known for good quality thermal mineral waters. It has developed programs for health, wellness, recreational and congress tourism. It is beneficial in rehabilitation of cardiovascular, rheumatology and neurological disorders. The Health-
Vilina vlas Not far from Višegrad there is Stara Banja, namely Rehabilitation Centre “Vilina vlas”. The main medicinal properties of water, rich in radon, come from its radioactivity. Thermal waters are also rich in sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminium, lithium, strontium, manganese, iron, ammonium-hydro carbonate, aluminium-oxide, oxides of iron and other metals.
care-Tourist Complex includes hotels and a sports-recreational facility. In the territory of Laktaši municipality there are two spa-recreational centers: Spa Resort Laktaši and Spa Resort Slatina. Thermal waters of Spa Resort Laktaši have been well known for its medicinal qualities since ancient (Roman) times. In immediate vicinity of Prijedor there is the Centre for Physiotherapy, Rehabilitation and Health Tourism “Mlječanica”. This spa resort is a place for the treatment, among other things, of inflammatory and degenerative rheumatic, neurological and skin diseases. The tourist offer of Prijedor is complemented by a medicinal water spring Lješljani, which is excellent for the treatment of skin diseases. (Spa Resort Lješljani is under construction, and water and the natural surroundings are currently used primarily as excursion ground, for recreational purposes.) In the area of Prnjavor there is Spa Resort Kulaši, the benefits of which are a rarity in the world. Its water is characterized by a high degree of alkalinity, and low level of mineralization, which gives evident results in the treatment of psoriasis. Spa Resort Dvorovi, near Bijeljina, has beneficial geo-thermal water that cures ma ny diseases. For those who love nature and ethno to urism, an excellent place in Srpska is Zelenkovac, mountain resort in the valley of the creek with the same name, near the village of Podrašnica in Mrkonjić Grad. About fifteen mills were built here a few centuries ago, and in April 2002 this place received the status of ecological zone. Also attractive is the complex in Ribnik, which consists of four villas (“Pliva”, “Sana”, “Vrbas”, “Una”) and one bungalow (“Luka”). Within the complex there is a good wine cellar. Special attraction is ethno village of Sta nišići, three kilometers from Bijeljina. In addition to numerous programs of Serbian cultural heritage, it is also adorned by the Monastery of St. Nicholas. s SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
Delicacies: Gastronomy is one of important tourist advantages of Srpska
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G u i d e BANJALUKA, BEAUTIFUL CAPITAL OF SRPSKA, IN ITS THIRD GOLDEN AGE
Eternal Return
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to the Centre Old fortress and dayak boats on the Vrbas
Photographs: Mladen Šukalo, Zoran Pejašinović and Photo Archive of the government of Srpska SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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G u i d e It was an important city in the early new age (1580-1639), at the time of the Vrbas Banovina (1929-1941) and especially now, as the capital of Srpska. And every time this would lead to a great upswing and blooming. This noble and very tidy city, without anything oriental in its character and appearance, is also called a city of culture, youth, sports, beautiful people. It is also known for its alleys, green river, fortress, museums and university, “nectar” beer and dayak boat. For songs that made it famous and the spirit of freedom without which it would not exist By: Zoran Pejašinović
One of the symbols of the city: Sculpture in the centre, work of Vladimir Pavlovič Zagorodnjuk
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lready in the ancient times, travel writers recorded how “fruit in Banjaluka was getting ruddy and branches of plum trees were heavy with fruits”. One of them especially praised sour cherries that “cannot be found anywhere in the world”. Up until the 19th century it was like this. Then comes Austro-Hungary, and with it making order, in a strict Germanic way. This is how it was with the city greenery, which had been the symbol of this city since ancient times. From the times of Turkish occupation, along the streets and alleys of Banjaluka only dwarfing apples, plums, pears and other fruit have remained, the branches of which were broken by mischievous children while eating unripe fruits. Nowadays, the new government developed the first parks, and along the curbs of Banjaluka streets, instead of crippled fruit trees, they planted, tilia and other deciduous trees. This is how the famous alleys originated, until today the most beautiful symbols of Banjaluka. The biggest merit for the creation of alleys has Austro-Hungarian general Alfred von Jelson (1831-1913). Under the command of this high officer and baron, from 1882 to 1885, as much as 17 kilometers of tree alleys were planted, with almost 5,000 trees. Some Banjalukans, not used to chang-
Two Versions of the Name Although it has been known for more than five centuries, the origin, meaning and transcription of the name of Banjaluka has, since the times of Kočić, caused serious polemics and dilemmas. Linguists, however, think that the name of this city derived from the verb banj, i.e. ban’s (from Avar word bajan, which means rich) and noun luka, which means a plateau, valley along the river. It is not known for certain which medieval Ban it was. However, centuries later, at the time of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, another Ban, Svetislav Tisa Milosavljević, would found a modern city and in this – in a way retroactively – give new meaning and confirmation to the thesis that Banjaluka is ban’s city. Meanwhile, two different transcriptions of the name of the city were accepted as equal: separated (Banja Luka) and as one word (Banjaluka). In accordance with the said etymology, it also requires a consequent change of the adjective in Serbian language.
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es, were not in peace with Jelson’s idea, and the new government threatened with high fines and even sent soldiers to guard young seedlings. To the satisfaction of all later inhabitants of the city, as well as guests, the seedlings thrived and, with time, grew into a peaceful gauntlet, which is today comprised of over 20,000 trees in about fifty kilometers of tree alleys. Thus, thanks to general Jelson, it has been more than a century that these rich tree alleys have been creating magnificent “tunnels” that turn a car ride through the streets of Banjaluka into a fairytale-like journey, similar to those in 3D cinemas – even fuller, because the alleys, especially in June, are filled with the scent of Tilia like nowhere else in the world. And the entire city with them! germ of the city in fortress In the centre of the old part of Banjaluka, formerly oriental, there is the Kastel Fortress. on the same plateau, apparently, there used to be a settlement already in the Roman times. Namely, archaeological findings indicate that there used to be a Roman camp Castra, and next to it, along the Crkvena, a civilian settlement with a temple dedicated to god Jupiter. This is also indicated by the foundations of a late Roman administrative building discovered within the fortress. Later, on this location, Turks built a large fortification. Old records say that the current appearance of the fortress was given by Numan-paša Ćuprilić, who completely restored in the early 18th century, through expansion and construction of bulwark, bastions, towers, underground passages and a deep dike (which would be filled with water from the Vrbas at times of war). The fortress, which is still hiding numerous secrets of past centuries in known and hidden hallways, can today be entered from three directions: from the north (from the Market), from the west (from Ferhadija) and from the (from the Vrbas). If we decide to use the northern gate, a stone building
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Rebuilt Temple of Christ the Savior (demolished in 1941)
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will appear in front of us, and further, in the interior, hidden behind the former walls and gratings, restaurant “Kazamat” with a garden along the bulwarks of the fortress and beautiful view over the greenish Vrbas. Next to “Kazamat”, there is a passage that leads to the second part of the fortification, through which an important Turkish road used to run. It led from the direction of Ferhadija, through western (Kapi Tower) and eastern gate (Sukapija), to Ferhad-paša’s bridge, link with Mala čaršija and a military training area on the right bank of the Vrbas. On these gates, apparently, the fatal love was born, which would create the material fro famous Banjaluka legend about Safikada... In this part of Kastel today there is an open stage, where concerts of classical, rock, folk and ethno music take place, and occasionally theatre performances. SERBIAN BANOVINA After the establishment of Habsburg rule, the city centre moved a few hundred meters north from Kastel. over the Crkvena creek (which was meanwhile “shoved underneath asphalt”), and Gospodska Street became the centre f trade and cultural life. After creation of the Vrbas Banovina in the South Slavic kingdom, Banjaluka thrives.
Petrašin Made of Bronze If we go from Kastel towards today’s city centre and in front of the famous hotel “Palace” we cross to the other side of the main street, we will find ourselves in a small, modern park. Hidden by treetops of big trees, this park has been adorned, for eight decades, by a monument to the famous Krajina tribune and writer Petar Kočić. “Petrašin Made of Bronze” was co-authored by Antun Augustinčić and Ivan Vanja Radauš, and was unveiled in November 1932. Kočić’s will and warning can be read on the pedestal of this monument: “Those who sincerely and passionately love Truth, Freedom and Homeland, are free and fearless as God, and despised and hungry as a dog.”
The city center is created around the newly built Christian Orthodox temple. On the Day of St. Demetrius in 1929, Svetislav Tisa Milosavljević, the first principal of the Vrbas Banovina, comes to Banjaluka. A new golden era of this city begins. Energetic and entrepreneurial, the Ban changes the face and spirit of the city. In only thirteen months, The Banovina Administration was built (today the City Administration Office), on the third anniversary of his coming into the city the Ban court was moved, theatre and museum were founded meanwhile, newspaper launched, apartments for civil servants were built, a new hotel, park in the centre of the city... It was, as somebody said, “Pericles’ era of Banjaluka”.
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Monument to the most famous Krajina writer Petar Kočić, and the park named after him
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Dayak Boats on the Waters of the Vrbas Guests visiting the bulwarks of Kastel during summer will almost certainly have a chance to see a dayak down in the river, from its bulwarks. This unusual vessel is a symbol of the city and has been the pride of Banjaluka for more than a century and a half. The body of this boat, 7 to 9 meters long, is made of fir tree, while prow and stern are made from harder wood (oak, locust or ash tree). The boat is actually pushed and navigated by means of a dayak, a special pole after which it was named. This wooden pole, several meters long, has a tip strengthened with a crown and spike, which achieves safer and easier push against the rocky bottom of the river. Ride in a dayak is a special experience and the matter of city prestige.
On the occasion of the 75th anniversary of the Vrbas Banovina, in 2004, the Banjalukans built a monument to Ban Milosavljević, which is facing three of his most important endowments, the Banovina Administration, the Ban’s Court and the beautiful Christian Orthodox Temple of Christ the Savior, the construction of which was helped by Milosavljević, and grateful Banjalukans invited him, five years after his departure from the Banovina, to be a guest of honor at its consecration in 1939. This temple was short-lived (demolished to the ground in 1941), but its reconstruction began in 1992. Consecrated on the Day of Ascension in 2009, it still glows as a golden-stone torch over the surrounding palaces PALACE OF THE REPUBLIC One of the most remarkable monuments from the time of the Vrbas Banovina is the building of “Hipotekarna banka”, today the Palace of Republika Srpska. Although the construction of this building is often mistakenly linked with the first Ban, Svetislav Tisa Milosavljević, it was built at the time of the third Ban, Bogoljub Kujundžić (on the head of the Vrbas Banovina from January 1935 until October 1937). The Palace with its angular position, together with Milosavljević’s endowments (Temple of Christ the Savior, the Ban’s Court, Banovina Administration, today the City Administration Office), makes the core of today’s city.
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G u i d e Symbol of Banjaluka of the 21st century: New building of the Government of Srpska and Tax Administration
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The building was made in the spirit of Bauhaus and classicism, and based on the design of Belgrade architect Miodrag Vasić. It is recognizable for its monumental bronze statues at the entrance, the author of which is white Russian Vladimir Pavlovič Zagorodnjuk, born in Odessa. This artist graduated from the faculty of sculpture in Paris, and the October Revolution brought him to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, in which he would remain for three decades. He mostly worked as a set designer in the National Theatre in Belgrade, where several artists from Russian school of ornamental painting gathered around famous Jovan Bijelić. In 1950, he moved with his family to Sidney, where he died in 1976. Meanwhile, from 1927, he was involved in decoration of public buildings such as Patriarchy in Belgrade, “Hipotekarna banka” in Sarajevo (today the Central Bank of B&H), Hotel “Avala” and others. For the building in Banjaluka he made reliefs along the entire facade, but except for fragments of “Adam and Eve”, which still adorn the space above the main entrance, the other window reliefs were seriously damaged in World War Two, and were removed during reconstruction of the building. Fortunately, Zagorodnjuk’s free standing sculptures of a Krajina peasant and peasant woman dressed in traditional clothes still decorate the main entrance into the Palace of the Republic. IN THE ELEVATOR ABOVE THE CITY After establishment of Republika Srpska and placement of its institutions in Banjaluka, this city became a capital, for the third time, thus receiving an opportunity for fast development. The symbol of that Banjaluka from the early 21st century is certainly the Administrative Centre of the Government of Republika Srpska, which was put in use in 2007. This modern complex is dominated by the highest building in the city, 17 floors high Government of Republika Srpska. In immediate vicinity there is the House of Radio-Television of Republika Srpska, and business centre which includes the Tax Administration. On the highest floor of the latter building, the fourteenth, there is a big restaurant. It can be reached by an external, panoramic elevator, which provides the visitors with the beauty of traveling through yet another Banjaluka “tunnel”, this one made of glass and vertical, thus preparing them for a unique view over the entire city – the capital of Republika Srpska. s SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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F o u n d ati o n s ECONOMY OF SRPSKA ON THE ROAD TO RECOVERY AND GROWTH
Natural
Resources – the Key to Development
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Animal husbandry is an important economic potential of Srpska
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F o u n d ati o n s After disintegration of Yugoslavia, as a big and united economic system, then war destruction, some important characteristics of economic environment in this region have been changed. In the past fifteen years, the economy of Srpska has been erected on the concepts of privatization, establishing small and medium sized companies, infrastructural projects, as well as direct foreign investments. Important fields of its geo-economy are energy, food and processing industry, services and financial sector
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY OF SRPSKA
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lectric power sector, agriculture and food industry with abundance of natural potentials, are the main economic and developmental opportunities for Srpska. Its natural resources, rich and diverse, are the key factor for geo-economic shaping of this republic. Main competitive advantages for investment here are agricultural land, forest complexes, hydroclimate conditions, mineral resources, and big tourist potentials. – Economic structure and developed capacities in the territory of Srpska for a good foundation for further successful growth. Industry certainly has the most important place in the economic system, and it is the main segment in the strategy of long-term social-economic development – says Dragica Ristić, director of the Chamber of Commerce of Republika Srpska. Energy industry certainly has a strategic position in the economy of Srpska and it attracts interest of numerous foreign and local investors. Today, electric power in Srpska is produced by hydro power plants on the Trebišnjica, “Višegrad”, “Bočac”, as well as several smaller hydro power plants.
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Big Ventures in Energy Industry The energy industry of Srpska, however, is yet to face the realization of big projects. In addition to construction of hydro power plants “Buk Bijela” and “Foča”, and project “Gornji Horizonti”, which envisages construction of three new hydro power plants (“Nevesinje”, “Dabar” and “Bileća”), as well as a large number of smaller hydro power plants on all catchment areas – they also plan to strengthen capacities in the area of thermal energy (thermal power plant “Stanari” and the second phase in thermal power plants “Ugljevik” and “Gacko”). Construction of the major gas pipeline “Sava” and connection to the international gas pipeline “South Stream”, a branch of which will be running through Srpska, is also of great significance.
Together with thermal power plants that use coal in Gacko and Ugljevik, total available power of the producers is 1,336 megawatts and it satisfies the needs of citizens amend local economy, while a part of electric power is exported. – The last four years in the Mixed Holding “Electric Power Industry of Republika Srpska” will be remembered as the
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most successful since its establishment. They produced 22,190 gigawatt-hours of electric power, and realized profit on holding level amounts to 92,210,000 convertible marks – says Branislava Milekić, General Manager of MH “Electric Power Industry of RS”. Majority of the investments in the past several years were went to energy sector, primarily thanks to investments into oil sector, namely Oil Refinery “Brod” (which is involved in production of motor fuels, diesel fuel, bitumen, liquid petroleum gas and sulfur) and in Oil Refinery “Modriča” (its main groups of products include lubricants and liquids for vehicles, mechanization and industrial plants, oils and liquids for metal processing, lubricating grease, base oils, paraffins and bio-program). “Modriča” was proclaimed the most successful company in Srpska in 2011, in the selection that has been traditionally organized by the RS Chamber of Commerce. – Last year, “Modriča” Refinery used the advantages of cooperation with big global company such as “Nestro Group”. Thanks to stable supply of base oil raw materials from the Refinery in Brod and placement of finished products through “Optima Group” and “Nestro Petrol”, it achieved the placement of all products in the local and
foreign market. More than 50 percent of the production went to export. Thanks to our strategic partner, namely the owner, who has opened a new cycle of investments into new technology, we have also conquered some new markets – says Pero Dugić, director of Oil Refinery “Modriča”. AGRICULTURE IS VITAL In addition to energy industry, another branch of industry in Srpska is literally of vital importance: agriculture and food industry. According to the data from 2011, there are more than 1,300 food manufacturers here. About 800 companies, agricultural cooperatives and independent producers are involved in agricultural production and services in agriculture. They employ
Healthy Food In the past years Srpska has been developing capacities for production of organic food, and strengthening brands based on tradition in the production and on geographic origin of products. Available resources, existence of production tradition, as well as a large number of entities that standardized products and processes, enabled the food produced on Srpska to be sold in increasingly big quantities in the European Union, USA, Canada, Russia and Australia.
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F o u n d ati o n s
Forests Forestry is another national natural treasure and economic potential of Srpska. Forest complex stretches over 1,287,970 hectares. Of this, 50 percent are high forests, 27 percent low, and the rest is comprised of woodlands and barrens. In addition to production of wood intermediates for farther processing, forests are the basis for operation and significant number of companies involved in collecting and processing secondary forest products, medicinal herbs and mushrooms, but also processing of forest waste.
about 7,000 people. 221,000 households are involved in the same activity, with about 800,000 members. Individual farmers and agricultural companies work in farming, animal husbandry, fruit and vegetable growing, fishery, bee-keeping, all the way to viticulture and production of medicinal and aromatic plants. About 500 economic entities are involved in processing of agricultural products produced in this ways, employing about 6,000 people. There are over 0.8 hectares of available agricultural land per capita, which is a great foundation for agriculture and food industry. Srpska also has different geographical and climate conditions, and it is possible to be involved in activities typical for plains, hills and mountains, but also for Mediterranean area. TOWARD ITS FINAL PRODUCT In 2011, processing industry of Srpska made 3.4 billion marks in total income. About 12 percent of this amount goes to wood processing. Formerly, it used to be mostly the primary wood processing. In the past decade, however, there is an increasing share of well equipped capacities that are involved in production of their own final wood product. Although dependent on export, industry of textile, leather and footwear is a branch of industry oriented toward export, which employs 8,560 people. For this reason, the businessmen in this area are primarily based on lohn activities for foreign partners, users of subsidies for export and fiscal benefits. In addition to manufacturers of food, beverages and tobacco, metallurgy and processing of metal also stand out for total volume and realized total income. About 350 of economic entities of this type, based on their share in export of Srpska, form one of the most significant industries, with
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realistic perspectives for further growth of export. A guarantee for this is a wide range of products, from good quality ores (iron and bauxite), alumina, aluminium profiles, steel pipes, machines, boilers for central heating, to airplane engines, tools, electrodes for welding and other products. The most important products of electrical and chemical industry of Srpska are electrical machines, devices and parts, plastic masses and products made from them, various products of chemical industry and pharmaceutical products. Paper production and graphical industry have an increasingly important place in the economy of Republika Srpska. It is comprised of companies that are involved in graphical activity, printing services, production of paper and paper products,
and production of cardboard packaging, as well as information activity. TRADE AND SERVICES, TRAFFIC AND CONNECTIONS Service industry is one of the most dynamic ones in Srpska, from trade, tourism and hospitality industry, to traffic and connections. Trade sector has been transformed in the past decade, developed its capacities and modernized trading techniques. There is a higher share of retail chains, centers and hypermarkets. People invest into modern forms of wholesale and retail. Companies from this sector account for 35 percent of all in Srpska, while every fifth employee works in trade.
The fact that Srpska is on one of three major tourist routes in Europe, connecting Eastern Europe with the Adriatic Coast, substantiates the expectation that tendency of growth in visits and number of overnights will continue. Tourist potentials of Srpska are significant, but in this edition of National Review this will be a topic of a separate article. s
Stability of the Financial System Banking sector, the most important part of a financial system, has been completely reformed in Srpska. It has marked positive trends in all segments of operation. It has 10 banks, while there are 11 companies operating in the insurance market. In the area of Srpska there are also branch offices of insurance companies from the other Entity, and several companies from Srpska have a license to conduct insurance business in the Federation of B&H. SRPSK A ď‚ SPECIAL EDITION ď‚ 2013
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Emblem of Republika Srpska
SYMBOLS OF REPUBLIKA SRPSKA CONTINUE A LONG TRADITION OF SERBIAN HERALDRY
Until Eagles Fly Again Under pressure, after controversial judicial decisions, the coat of arms of Srpska was replaced with a temporary symbol which has a role of an official coat of arms. Although not made in accordance with standards of heraldry, says heraldist Dragoljub Acović, this symbol “complies with historical, legal and esthetical norms, and was well received by the people”. However, people in Srpska do not forget what their ancestors used to have on their coats of arms, shields and chests, because the same symbols, they say, will be worn by their offspring By: Luka Petrović
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ramatic historical circumstances that caused the creation of Republika Srpska followed the creation and establishment of its first most important symbols: coat of arms, flag and anthem. In two decades of its existence, Republika Srpska has already had two coats of arms.
The first was heraldically well based and accepted by the people, and the second one appeared only as a proposal. Under pressure, after controversial judicial decisions, they were replaced by a temporary symbol which has a role of an official coat of arms and which is the official symbol of RepubSRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
Coat of arms of Srpska, annulled with the disputable decision of the Constitutional Court of B&H
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Several Millennia Old Symbol Eagle is an ancient and complex symbol, celestial (angelic) and solar. It exists in all traditions, from far eastern to pre-American. It symbolizes height, the angelic, light of the mind, spirituality, contemplation, sharp-sightedness. “Solar bird, radiant like fire.” “Eagle is boldly looking directly at the sun, and at you, eternal glow, if your heart is pure”, sings Angelus Silezijus. In Christianity, eagle is an attribute of apostle and evangelist John, and sometimes, especially in the Middle Ages, it used to be identified with Christ himself. Eagle is a several millennia old symbol in heraldry as well. It used to be a symbol of Roman emperors, and it remained the same in Byzantine. From the 10th century, instead of single-headed, a double-headed eagle appears on Byzantine coats of arms. As such, it also symbolizes unity of worldly and sacral principle in the community, symphony of state and church, court and temple, crown and miter. In Rome, Byzantine and Russia, it symbolizes orientation both toward the East and toward the West, namely emperor’s rule both in Europe and Asia.
Decorations and medals of Republika Srpska
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lika Srpska. Although “not made in accordance with standards of heraldry”, in words of heraldist Dragoljub Acović, the emblem “complies with historical, legal and esthetical norms, and is very well received by the people of Republika Srpska”. This new symbol, emblem, was accepted by the Assembly of Republika Srpska on June 16, 2007, and this is how his appearance is officially described: “Emblem of Republika Srpska consists of a field in colors of the flag of Republika Srpska over which there is golden intertwined initial of Republika Srpska; the field is encircled with golden fertile oak wreath at the bottom, tied with a ribbon in the colors of the flag; above the field there is a golden closed heraldic crown, and below the field there is a golden royal crown; around all of this is circumscription РЕПУБЛИКА СРПСКА – REPUBLIKA SRPSKA.” “Golden closed heraldic crown”, as described in the law, appears in the late 19th century and early 20th century on the state coat of arms of Serbia in the time of the Obrenović Dynasty, on the court coat of arms and flag of the Obrenović. This state coat of arms of the Obrenović Dynasty was also accepted by the Karađorđević Dynasty. Such crown was also on the coat of arms of the Principality and Kingdom of Montenegro, as well as on the court flag of Montenegro in the early 20th century, and on the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Emblem of Republika Srpska is bordered with two golden branches, two wreaths with golden oak leaves. We must note that the coat of arms of Serbia, from the time of duke Miloš, as specified in the Constitution of SRPSK A SPECIJALNO IZDAWE 2013
1835, was “bordered with a green wreath, on the right side made of oak leaves, and on the left side of olive leaves”. It is also important to point out another important detail. below the ribbon in the colors of the Serbian flag, which ties two oak tree branches at the bottom, there is the crown of the Kotromanić dynasty – the same as the one with cross-shaped lilies that was put on the head of Stefan Tvrtko I Kotromanić by Metropolitan of Mileševa when crowning him as the king, on the Day of St. Demetrius in 1377, in Mileševa Monastery, not far from the Shrine of St. Sava. CHARACTERISTICS OF LONG MEMORY State symbols express age-old awareness of people and its elite about belonging and identity. Together with the cult of St. Sava and history of Kosovo, double-headed white eagle and cross with fire steels are the highest symbolical and historical features in all Serbian countries. Therefore it is understandable why Serbian people of Republika Srpska see and feel exactly these symbols as they code heraldic sign. And when, immediately after the foundation of Republika Srpska, its coat of arms was to be defined, there were no dilemmas. A dominant detail on this first coat of arms was double-headed eagle on a red shield. The eagle had golden beaks and claws and golden crown on its head. Its chest was covered with a red shield, in the centre of which there was a silver cross, an d under each arm of the cross, in all four corners of the shield, there was one silver fire steel facing outward. Pursuant to the decision of the Constitutional Court of Bosnia and Herzegovina, in early 2007, this coat of arms was annulled.
Expansion Double-headed eagle spread from Byzantine to the countries within its cultural orbit (Serbia, Russia...). Many Serbian medieval noble families took silver Byzantine as their symbol (Nemanjić, Mrnjavčević, Lazarević, Kastriotić...), as well as new age dynasties (Obrenović, Karađorđević, Petrović-Njegoš). In addition to Byzantine and Russian, it was also a feature of the coat of arms of the Holy Roman Empire and Austro-Hungary, as well as of coats of arms of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, Greece, Austria, Albania, Germany, SR Yugoslavia, Serbia and Montenegro, Srpska...
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Decorations and medals of Republika Srpska
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Experts involved in heraldry proposed another coat of arms, which was adopted on July 15, 2008 by the Assembly of Republika Srpska, but it was soon withdrawn. That coat of arms also had an interesting design. Like the previous one, it featured a double-headed white eagle, only without a crown, with a shield over its chest, with a cross and fire steels. A novelty consists of two lilies, drawn next to the eagle’s claws. (Lilies had that same position on the coat of arms the Kingdom of Serbia.) In this new version, the coat of arms of Srpska was also given a pedestal and shield supports. The entire coat of arms stands on a golden pedestal in the centre of which lays the pointed bottom part of the red shield. On both ends of the pedestal, there are two lions standing on their back feet, wearing on their heads Serbian crowns from the previous version of the coat of arms. On the right and left shoulder blade of erected lions there are two medallions, with two heraldic signs. On the medallion on the left side, in blue field, there
Flag The flag adopted at the time of creation of Republika Srpska was spared by court prohibition. It is, actually, an old Serbian rectangular tricolor, with three equal horizontal fields – red, blue and white. It belongs to the group of tricolor Slavic flags. It was accepted in Serbia of duke Miloš, 1835. In1905, Serbs in B&H managed to preserve the same symbol. In the Regulation of clerical-educational administration of Serbian Orthodox dioceses in Bosnia and Herzegovina, with consent of AustroHungarian rulers, it was included that “people-church flag of Serbian-Orthodox metropolises in Bosnia and Herzegovina is red-blue-white”.
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is the crown of the Kotromanić dynasty, and on the right side, in a disc, there are slanted red ribbons from the coat of arms of Stefan Kosača, duke of Saint Sava. All these heraldic elements and symbols that appear on the two coats of arms and the emblem of Republika Srpska are deeply rooted in Serbian tradition. This was first pointed out by the founder of modern Serbian heraldry Stojan Novaković in his work Heraldic Customs among Serbs in Practice and Literature, published in 1886. This is mostly confirmed, but also supplemented by other researchers, such as historian Aleksandar Solovjev and academician Sima Ćirković. Both white eagles and crosses with fire steel were impressed into shields and seals in the Byzantine, on gowns on Byzantine emperors and aristocrats. From there, they were very early transferred to Serbia. On the overcoat of Nemanja’s brother, duke Miroslav, on a fresco in the Monastery of St. Peter and Paul in Bijelo Polje, painted in the late 12th century, there is a double-headed eagle. It also appears among his descendants. White eagle is engraved on incense holders that arrived from Serbia to Bari, to the church where the relics of St. Nicholas are kept, then on the ring of Queen Theodore, wife of Stefan Dečanski, not to mention frequent examples from the time of Dušan indicated by Novaković. WITH DEEP ROOTS Double-headed white eagles also appear as symbols of the royal dynasty of the Kotromanić. On the obverse side of the
great seal of king Tvrtko, on the right side, we also see a shield with a double-headed white eagle. Almost the same shield also appears on the great seal of king Stefan Dabiša Kotromanić, the original imprint of which is kept in the British Museum in London. It was researched by Pavao Anđelić who says that the seal shows a king sitting on the throne, and on his right and left side there are two shields. “On the shield on the right side of the shield, as a heraldic symbol, there is a double-headed eagle with spread wings. On the left side the shield has right slanted stripe and three lilies on each field.” Double-headed white eagle and crosses with fire steel appear as symbols on seals and frescoes, as ornaments on clothes and dishes, or as plastics in churches (Lazarica, Kalenić and Ljubostinja at the time of duke Lazar, later also on churches from the time of his successors, despot Stefan Lazarević and despot Đurđe Branković). They also entered coat of arms galleries that preceded Stematography by Hristofor Zhefarovich, and such presentations on coats of arms of Serbian rulers and countries contributed to the creation of national awareness of Bulgarians as well. Resurrected new age Serbia was proclaimed kingdom on February 22, 1882, when king Milan Obrenović was crowned, and already on June 20, a law on the new coat of arms was adopted. This coat of arms, in words of Stojan Novaković, was created in accordance with heraldic taste of that time. “From the bases that are proven with authentic monuments, all constituent parts of the new coat of arms were created. From the
old royal crown, which was preserved on so much money, a new one was made, reduced crown, in from similar to present day royal crowns. Based on old authentic forms of double-headed eagle, the new coat of arms was created, flying double-headed eagle, while the heraldic naturalistic drawing was taken from our times. Lilies, heraldic sign which appeared the first on our monuments and could be seen on them until the end of the old state life, new coat of arms were taken and placed below the eagle’s claws. I. M. Orbini and P. Riter, when they designed the coat of arms of the Nemanjić empire, came to these same constituent elements, although their drawing differs from the form that we can see in the old example in its authentic forms. As the Kingdom of Serbia developed from the Principality of Serbia, the state coat of arms of the Principality was put on the eagle’s chest, and the overcoat used by all more recent states in Europe was retained and which was already adopted on the coat of arms of the Principality of Serbia.” Exactly these heraldic solutions, ion the design of which Novaković participated, used as a template for new Serbian coats of arms, including the coat of arms of Republika Srpska. s
Anthem The anthem God of Justice, which was unanimously accepted by the people of Srpska from the very beginning, was also rejected by the Constitutional Court of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Instead of this, a completely new ceremonial song My Republic, written by Mladen Matović, was adopted. SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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ON THE DAY OF ST. DEMETRIUS 1377, NEAR THE RELIQUARY OF SERBIAN SAINT SAVA
King Tvrtko’s Crown from Mileševa It was an important historical event, attended by numerous most respectable guests. The ritual was solemn, Byzantine-Nemanjić, the same as the one at the time when Saint Sava crowned Stefan Prvovjenčani. Dilemma as to what was Tvrtko’s religion never existed. There is not a single example that Serbian church would enthrone a ruler who is not Christian Orthodox. It is also clear why Tvrtko chose Mileševa for his coronation and not, for example, his court church in Trstenica, near the court in Bobovac By: Jovo Bajić
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day or two before the day of St. Demetrius in 1377, a procession of cavalry and horses with freight was moving upstream the Mileševka, a tributary of the Lim, deep canyon between Zlatar and Jadovnik, toward Mileševa Monastery. Among cavalrymen there was bio je Tvrtko I Kotromanić, the Ban of Bosnia, and maybe his wife Doroteja. On one SRPSK A SPECIJALNO IZDAWE 2013
of the freight carrying horses there was his new royal gown, royal crown, purple royal overcoat and coronet, as well as other symbols of royal dignity. A historical event was about to occur: coronation with a double crown (sugubi vijenac), Serbian and Bosnian, of the first king of the Kotromanić dynasty, who will become “by the grace of god, king of Serbia, Bosnia and the Littoral
Illustrations: Mihail Kulačić
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By the Grace of God There, in the temple of Mileševa, Tvrtko took name Stefan, so as to become equal with his Nemanjić ancestors, with whom he was connected and whose tradition he wanted to continue. He became, “by the grace of god, king of Serbia, Bosnia and the Littoral and Western areas”. There is no data on whether the new Bosnian queen Doroteja (Doroslava) was also crowned in the temple of Mileševa.
and Western areas”. All this was about to happen in front of the reliquary of Saint Sava, who had crowned the first king of Serbia Stefan Prvovenčani. Mileševa, one of the most famous Serbian sanctuaries, which housed the reliquary with the relics of Saint Sava, as the result of shifting of borders, was at that time in the territory of Bosnian state. Large residencies were built around the church, the monastery had a large fraternity, and among monks there were great spiritual people, skilled copyists of books and biographers, masters for manufacture of church items. It often received gifts from Serbian rulers and gentry, filling its famous treasury. The monastery had large estates which provided it with significant income. Coronation of king Tvrtko I was an event that attracted great attention. Among the rulers of the neighboring countries and lords who had risen on the ruins of Serbian empire, this act of Tvrtko Kotromanić did not have major opposition. The most dignified Serbian duke Lazar Hrebeljanović and Vuk Branković maintained friendship toward Ban Tvrtko Kotromanić and did not oppose his coronation. The same attitude had Hungarian king Lajos. It is not excluded that among the gentry present at this event were also duke Lazar Hrebeljanović and Vuk Branković. Why did Ban Tvrtko choose the Church of the Holy Salvation in Mileševa for his royal coronation, and not, for example, his court church in Trstenica, near his court in Bobovac, the church dedicated to Saint George Theologian Nazijanin, the protector of Bosnia, who was at that time in Bosnia called Grgur Nazazen? Because of his ties to the Nemanjić dynasty. King Tvrtko referred to his ancestors the Nemanjićs. Tvrtko’s grandmother Jelisaveta, wife of Bosnian Ban Stefan I Kotromanić, was a daughter of King Stefan Dragutin Nemanjić. When establishing a new dynasty, this blood tie enabled him to add name Stefan – the Nemanjić dynasty rulers’ name – to his own. SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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R e mi n d e r Serbian Saint Sava
DISENTANGLED KNOTS OF BOSNIAN HISTORY Historiography of the 19th and 20th century gives great significance to this event. Scarcity of historical data created the space for various interpretations and contemplations, especially because this question could have been used to disentangle many knots of Bosnian history. One of the apparent dilemmas around which historians were in sharp disagreement is whether king Tvrtko I was a Christian Orthodox, Roman Catholic or Bogomil. The process of collecting evidence is ongoing even today. This question was also researched by a renowned Serbian historian – academician Nikola Radojčić, in his study The Ritual of Coronation of Bosnian King Tvrtko I (Contribution to the history of coronations of Serbian rulers in the Middle Ages) which appeared in 1948, published by the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences. This book, the result of a long research, is one of those that people don’t talk about. In order to resolve the artificially created dilemma related to religion of king Tvrtko I, facing the scarcity of available data, Radojčić tried to find the answer indirectly. He studied and reconstructed the ritual of coronation of Serbian medieval rulers, which were also followed during coronation of king Tvrtko. On the basis of this ritual, he concluded what the religion of the crowned ruler must have been. He also studied rituals of coronation of Western European Roman-Catholic rulers, but also Byzantine Tsars, as well as the first Serbian king from the Nemanjić dynasty, Stefan Prvovenčani. He says: “According to Christian Orthodox ritual, which is of special importance for us herein, Stefan was crowned as the king by his brother Sava, with obvious intention to make Serbian coronation as similar as possible to a Byzantine one, just like he was striving to make Serbia as similar as possible to Byzantine in all aspects, and especially in his loyalty to Christian Or-
Assumption It was common that the rulers from the same royal lineage would be crowned in the church in which their founder was crowned. However, there is no historical data as to where the later Bosnian kings were crowned, Tvrtko’s successors. It is not excluded that this was happening in Mileševa.
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Obverse of the great seal of King Tvrtko I, reconstruction
thodox church. That is why in the first coronations of the members of the Nemanjić dynasty, which were performed by Saint Sava, church elements clearly dominated over the traditional ones. They were especially to be emphasized in Raška with still insufficiently rooted state religion of Byzantine Christian Orthodox church. The high authority of Saint Sava... boldly placed church regulations as the highest and with the highest priority during coronation of Serbian kings in Raška.” In order for a ruler to be crowned in Christian Orthodox church, he must primarily fulfill the basic requirement – must be Christian Orthodox. This condition must have also been fulfilled by Tvrtko I Kotromanić. The Christian Orthodox church, according to Radojčić, would never compromise in this matter. “At the time of coronation of Tvrtko I, we are still in the era of Emperor Dušan, who considered the Latin heresy to be not only a religious delusion, but also a danger for the state. It also applies to Bogomils. Serbia at that time was characterized by deep union between Greek loyalty to pure Christian Orthodox church and Serbian loyalty of church to the state. Serbian church can certainly not be criticized for political ignorance, and therefore it would be unthinkable that it would, as the result of ignorance and inability to evaluate the consequences of its actions, do something that would be
completely opposite to its loyalty to faith and its wisdom in its attitude toward the state. That is really impossible.” WORTHY, THEY ALL SAID Before departing for Mileševa, Tvrtko I fulfilled the main requirement: he proved to be Christian Orthodox. To this end, his statement would not have been enough, but also a series of evidence from his surroundings, including his theologians. There is not a single proof that Serbian church would put on the throne a ruler who was not Christian Orthodox. The maximum seriousness in this respect is reflected also in the fact that such a great religious and national holiday as the Day of St. Demetrius was chosen as the day of coronation. It is certain that Mileševa was also well prepared to welcome Ban Tvrtko I Kotromanić and his entourage. It is known that the metropolitan with priests and monks was waiting for him in the monastery, and that they spent more than one night there. The coronation took place on November 8 (October 26 according to old calendar), 1377. The liturgy was served by the metropolitan with priests. In the Temple of the Holy Salvation of Mileševa Monastery, metropolitan with priests and Ban Tvrtko entered the altar. Tvrtko’s royal gown was previously placed there, together with priests’ gowns. Royal
Nikola Radojčić Academician Nikola Radojčić was born in the village of Kuzmin, in Srem, in 1882. He studied in Graz, Zagreb, Jena and Munich. Some of his renowned professors were Matija Murko and Konstantin Jiriček. After earning his doctorate degree in 1907, he finds employment in Karlovac gymnasium, where he stayed for a year, and then he goes to gymnasium in Sremski Karlovac, where he worked for twelve years. In 1920, he was appointed professor of Serbian and Croatian history at a new university in Ljubljana, and in 1938, he became a regular member of Serbian Royal Academy. When World War Two broke, he immigrated to Belgrade, and at the end of the war he was retired by the government. He studied the history of Byzantine, medieval Serbia and medieval Bosnia. He left a number of significant works. He died in 1964.
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crown, purple overcoat and other royal insignia were placed over the cover on the mobile table, which would later be placed in front of the altar. The coronation was similar to ordination of Serbian bishops today. During liturgy, the future king was in the altar, and he participated, like the priests, in the sacral ceremony, which is generally reserved only for priests. Before communion, the future king would, before the metropolitan and respected guests in the temple of Mileševa Monastery, standing in front of the reliquary of Saint Sava, say vjeruju (the symbol of faith), thus unmistakably showing to everybody that he is a Christian Orthodox. Then he would make a promise, there, in front of the altar, that he would protect and help Christian Orthodox church and that – and this was a mandatory part – fight against any heresy. Only after this he could proceed with communion. Just like the priests, the future king would take communion in the altar. Then, according to the church rules, which were reconstructed by academician Nikola Radojčić, the act of coronation would begin. The final part of this ritual would take place in front of the altar, near the center of the temple of Mileševa, in front of images shown on church frescoes – Serbian rulerssaints Stefan Nemanja, Stevan Prvovenčani and his sons Radoslav and Vladislav. Autumn lights penetrated at an angle through church windows, and the inside of the temple was illuminated with numerous candles. Deacons then took the portable table (nalonj)
from behind the altar, on which the royal Coat of arms overcoat and crown had been laid. Ban Tvrt- of the Kotromanić ko I and metropolitan approached. Then the dynasty and metropolitan took the double crown (sugubi remains of vijenac), crown of the Kotromanić dynasty, Tvrtko’s capital and with the chanting of the priests “svjat, city of Bobovac svjat” he put it on the head of the first king of the newly established royal dynasty of Kotromanić. Gentry and people would reply from the church: “Worthy!” The metropolitan put the purple royal overcoat around the king’s shoulders, and then he anointed him. In the final part of his study about coronation of king Stefan Tvrtko I Kotromanić, Nikola Radojčić says: “Coronation of a ruler was really an important part of spiritual history of every nation that rose to the level of state independence. From its development, one can really feel, especially on the West, the change in relationship between the state and church. In the East, however, all coronations of rulers show unbreakable desire of the church that the ruler should prove his loyalty to Christian Orthodox church. In its relation toward the ruler, Western church was torn by multitude and diversity of desires, in combination with its political aspirations, and that is why it was changing them according to political climate, while the Eastern church always had only one desire in front of its eyes – loyalty to Christian Orthodox church, combined with love for mankind.” s
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COUNT SAVA VLADISLAVIĆ (1668-1738), IMPERIAL ADVISER AND CONFIDENTIAL DIPLOMAT OF PETER THE GREAT, THE MOST POWERFUL SERB OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
With the State in the Heart By: Dragan M. Ćirjanić
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Gifted Herzegovian, exceptionally educated and unusually skilled in “dynamic games of high politics”, for the account of the Russian emperor negotiated peace with the sultan in Prut, pact of friendship with Chinese emperor in Beijing, concordat with the Pope in Rome, military alliance with then powerful duke of Moldavia in Iasi. He founded Russian intelligence service. At Constantinople slave market, during a secret visit, he bought, and gave as a gift to the Russian emperor, a young Ethiopian who was to become the great-grandfather of Alexander Pushkin. In Siberia, he founded the city and in the centre of which there is a temple dedicated to Serbian St. Sava. He never forgot his people, language and religion. With his three daughters, he rests near the imperial family in the sacred Alexander Nevsky Lavra in St. Petersburg
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e are wondering today like Japanese ronin warriors over the shadows and ruins of the State, searching for the meaning in the rocky landscape, on faces of people gathered on the square. On the sunny day in September 2009, on the Day of Nativity, while the choir was sending into the sky Serbian and Russian anthem, in Gacko, in front of the church, a monument to count Sava Vladislavić was unveiled, thus bringing his face at the place where his exemplary and rich life began, over 340 years ago. Tall figure with a long hair, in the style of that time, with piercing and clear eyes, body like making a pivot, with a scroll in his hand, it is an expression of a resolute man, who is stranger to either action or contemplation. It reminds us of virtues in times of defeat and collapse of the state. A man of initiative, Sava Vladislavić is a rare Serb who, getting out of the darkness of Turkish occupation, shone on the court of Peter the Great, carrying until the end the idea of Serbian state. Even if Serbian state was swallowed by the darkness, the desire of people to recreate it did not. The state lives through its best people. Very few people today can be compared, for the range and significance of their actions, with count Sava Vladislavić, one of the most important Serbs in the late 17th and early 18th century. TALL AMONG RUINS
Monument to count Sava Lukič Vladislavić Raguzinski in Shlisselburg, St. Petersburg district, Russia
A descendant of medieval Serbian gentry, who withdrew to Herzegovina after the Battle of Kosovo, this authentic Serbian aristocrat embodies the virtues of his race in murky times of defeat. History of Vladislavić family is the history of Serbian gentry in the post-Kosovo period. Insufficiently illuminated and researched, this man, very important for us, is
Departing for the World After the oppression of Islamized family of Čengić on the estate of the Vladislavić family in Jasenak near Gacko, in the last quarter of the 17th century, Sava with his father Luka goes to Dubrovnik, and his brother Duka remains in Trebinje. The Dučić family comes from that branch of the family tree, and one of their offspring is the famous poet Jovan Dučić, author of the book Count Sava Vladislavić. In Dubrovnik, Luka Vladislavić adds Raguzinski to his last name, after the Italian name for the city in which he moved (Ragusa).
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showing his silhouette on the pages of the biography written by his cousin and countryman, the poet of immortal poems, Jovan Dučić (1871-1943). Carrying that text within himself for a long time, collecting materials during his diplomatic mandates, Dučić gave it a form and published it, not by accident, in the exile, in America, 1942, crushed by Serbian suffering and political naivety, while Europe was faltering and dying in the Civil War. In Sava Vladislavić he was looking for his alter ego, consolation in the recurring fate. Dučić, Pushkin of Serbia, found in Sava Vladislavić his ancestor. As if an entire epoch was summarized in the biography of count Sava Vladislavić, and as if his life is the last sigh of medieval Serbia, crushed with Turkish oppression and cynicism of the Republic of Venice and Austro-Hungary, Serbia searching for salvation from Russia. Serbian-Russian relations in all epochs speak about unusual common fate of two people of the same origin and religion. From Hilandar monks, through family ties of medieval Balšić and Jakšić families with the emperor Ivan Vasiljevič (Ivan the Terrible), to the migration of Serbs at the time of Maria Theresa to Russia (Šević, Piščević, Horvat, Tekelija, Preradović families...), liberation wars against Turks with help from Černjajev and sacrificial entry of emperor Nicolai II Romanov in World War One on the side of Serbia. From the arrival of Russian white immigrants in Serbia, until liberation of Serbia in World War Two, with immense help of Russian army. This uninterrupted connection has lasted up to the present day, both on personal and state level. The name of Save Vladislavić is certainly one of the most important in this sequence. His life, in an unusual way, crossed path with life of Czar Peter the Great, an exceptional personality of Russian and European history. Groundbreaking and enlightened spirit of Peter’s rule has changed the face of Russia forever. He turned the Principality of Moscow into an empire. Through opening toward Europe and a series of reforms in all areas of life, he introduced a new dynamics in relations of European powers. In this dynamics of relationships, the fate of Serbian countries under the Turks was also preserved. Serbs’ memory of the splendor of their medieval state, which never faded away, provided the strength for liberation wars
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and uprisings against the Ottoman Empire. Special credits for Russian awareness for the unresolved Serbian question on the Balkans go to count Sava Vladislavić, one of the key personalities of Serbian idea of that time. A MAN ON SIX SEAS Departure of the Vladislavić family from Jasenak near Gacko, where they held their estates, is shrouded in the veil of mystery. The Čengić family, who converted to Islam, according to a poem, extinguished the fire in fireplace of the Vladislavić family with their blood. Lively spiritual activity of Serbs from Herzegovina of that time was amazing. Sava’s father Luka was close friend with the Bishop of Zahumlje Vasilije Ostroški (1610-1671). They also maintained ties with monks from all Serbian territories (monk Gligorije from Rakovica Monastery near Belgrade). Monasteries Tvrdoš and Žitomislić were spiritual centers. Militant religion was intertwined with politics. Insurrection plans were being made. Pressed with waqfs on one hand and Dubrovnik and Venetian cynicism on the other, a unique Serbian culture was thriving almost in anonymity. Sava went to school in Dubrovnik and Italy, socializing with patricians’ sons. He was educated, fluent in Latin, Italian, Turkish, Greek and Russian. (Letters from the archives, written by him and members of his family, reveal highly cultured people.) As a young man he found himself in Constantinople, at the time when aristocrats were also involved in trading. He knew the situation in Turkey well. In cooperation with Dubrovnik emissary and Jerusalem Patriarch Dositej, he comes in contact with Russian emissaries in Constantinople, first with count Ukrajincev, and then with Golicin and Tolstoy. Thanks to their reports to the Tsar, in 1703, in newly founded Sankt Petersburg, Sava Vladislavić met with Peter I. Sava already had the aura of the indispensable personality from the reports of Russian emissaries. The meeting of two young people, full of mutual respect, was decisive. In Peter I Sava saw a splendid and militant figure of Slavic empire, able to change the situation in the Balkans as well. Vladislavić was a noble and educated man, who stood
out for his charm and eloquence, a characteristic so typical for people from Herzegovina. Well informed about the situation in Venice and Constantinople, he quickly fit into ambitious plans of Peter the Great. He had what to talk about with the Tsar. He taught him how to trade and advised on shipbuilding. From his travel to Turkey he brought to the Tsar A Secret Report on the Black Sea, about strategic situation on the territory that is vital for Russia. Sava’s trading privileges began in this period. He was one of the key founders of the imperial secret and intelligence service. For this purpose, he made great use of his trading network across Europe. He advised the Tsar in the Battle at the Poltava in 1709, where the militant Swedish king Carlo XII was finally defeated. Vladislavić was an intendant of the Russian army. He also officially became Peter’s ambassador.
Petar I Aleksejevič (1672-1725), better known as Peter the Great, Emperor of Russia
ONE DOES NOT FORGET SERBDOM In addition to everything else, Sava Vladislavić was also one of the richest people in Russia of that time. For great contributions in war and diplomacy, the Tsar was generously rewarding him with land and castles in Moscow, on Pokrovka, and later in St. Petersburg. He also left an interesting trace in Russian literature. From one of his journeys he brought two black boys as a gift to the Tsar, purchased on the slave market in Constantinople. To one of them, the favorite in the court, the Tsar was the godfather, and provided him with attention and education. He made an excellent military career. It was the great-grandfather of the famous Pushkin. Never forgetting the Serbian issue, all the time he maintains contacts with our insurgents and clergy. During the Russian
Kingdom of Slavs Using close relations with Tsar Peter the Great, count Sava Vladislavić tried to express his love for Serbian people, from which he originated, in cultural field as well, proposing to Tsar Peter the Great to have the book The Kingdom of the Slavs by Mavro Orbin, printed as far back as in 1601 in Pezar in Italian language, translated into Russian. Since Peter the Great was interested, Sava translated into Russian this, by that time the most comprehensive history of Serbs and other Balkan peoples. The book was published in Russian in 1722, and it enabled Russians to better understand ethnic and historical circumstances in the Balkans. Later Serbian historians Vasilije Petrović and Jovan Rajić also took data from Vladislavić’s translation. SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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Duka, brother of Sava Vladislavić, remained to live in Trebinje, and members of Dučić family are his descendents
campaign against Turkey on the Prut River, Sava synchronizes activities of insurgents in Herzegovina and Montenegro. A kind of a cult of Peter the Great was created in our. The failure pan-Orthodox campaign against Turkey postponed the liberation for the entire century. Sava made diplomatic preparation of the campaign on the Prut but, in the decisive day of the battle, treason of the Vlach duke Brankovan, who did not join the campaign despite the assumed obligations, was decisive. Sava Vladislavić had the leading role in peace negotiations with the sultan, upon the order of the Tsar. He also advises the Tsar in economic issues, thus filling the state treasury by means of his reforms. Roads later lead him to Italy, where he leads negotiations with Pope Clement XI on concordat and peace between Russia and Rome. Pope’s death and problems with proselytism of Catholics in Russia prevented the conclusion of the controversial agreement.
Calculation of Bishop Zmajević This is how the Bishop of Bar Andrija Zmajević notified his superiors about the insurrection of Serbian tribes against the Turks, in the summer of 1711: “On these borders an unusual war broke out. Christian Orthodox people, Turkish citizens, declared war to their sovereign so that they could use the diversion to help the Russians.” In the opinion of Bishop Zmajević, the victory of Christian Orthodox against the Turks was the greatest loss for Catholicism.
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Sava Vladislavić was in the centre of all important Russian intentions toward Europe. He had broad authority in conducting trade with Europe. He skillfully supplies the imperial family with many artworks. In Venice, he gets married with a thirty years younger than him from a wellknown patrician family, Virgilia Trevisan, with whom he had three daughters (unfortunately, their children died young). He took care about Russian aristocrats-cadets in European countries. The agony of Serbian countries continues even after the Požarevac peace between Austro-Hungary, Venice and Turkey (1718). Solution for the Serbian question is once again postponed. Serbian coast and hinterland are still changing foreign hands. Even in his personal life Sava Vladislavić had bitter experience with Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik Senate refused his wish, supported by the Tsar, to build a Serbian endowment on his estate in the city of St. Vlah. With cold pride, he leaves this city forever. A TOUCH OF A GREAT HUNCH Peter the Great dies in 1725, and Catherine I comes to the throne of Russia. Sava Vladislavić retained his positions. The crown of his service in the Russian court was departure on three years long difficult negotiations related to border with
China, upon the order of the empress. He manages to ensure 6,000 kilometers long border, the line that sustained for almost 150 years. In long and complex negotiations he is using all his diplomatic skills. He made maps of Siberia and builds border fortifications. In one of the newly founded cities, Troitskosavsk (today Kyahta), he builds a temple and a monastery dedicated to Serbian St. Sava. In The Secret Report on China. Vladislavić once again proves himself as a statesman. He suggests to the court what political course to take, with the most detailed understanding of the state reason and strategy. Only a higher form of mind can crystallize such insights. Near the end of his life, he suffered a series of personal tragedies. His mother, Teofanija, died, as well as all three daughters he had with his young wife Virgilia, as well as his son Luka from the first marriage. (Godmother of his eldest daughter Ana was Ana Petrovna, daughter of the Tsar Peter the Great.) Crushed with sorrow, Sava died on June 17, 1738, at the age of 70. The level of esteem he enjoyed at the Russian court can be seen in the fact that he, his mother and three daughters were buried next to the imperial family, in the Church of Holy Annunciation of Saint Alexander Nevsky Lavra in St. Petersburg. Even in the last moments of his life, Sava Vladislavić was thinking about his people. In his will, he or-
dered his nephew and heir Mojsije Ivanović “to send to Serbian countries two crates of Slavic books”. Through Sava Vladislavić, relations between Serbia and Russia are given fundamental significance for both Serbia and Russia. When we think about this man, we cannot but raise a question about current Serbian and Russian aristocracy. If we understand an aristocrat as a person who carries in himself the idea of the Order and the State, then he has an obligation to build new structures and shape the spirit of the new era, not rushing into things that do not make the State stronger. For us, Sava Vladislavić was an exemplary man of the State. State as the most important structure, sanctity, frame of the total life, beyond which we do not exist and with which we are everything. Vladislavić was a man without the State, and he carried the State in him. When it comes to Russia, ratio gives way to enthusiasm, skepticism turns into faith, and present time becomes nostalgia of the future, because deep down we suspect that Serbia is Little Russia and Russia is Little Serbia. s
Poet Jovan (1871-1943), the most famous member of the Dučić family, author of the book about Sava Vladislavić, was buried here in Gračanica of Herzegovina
(The author is renowned Serbian director, who is currently working on a documentary-feature film about count Sava Vladislavić) SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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SAINT PETAR ZIMONJIĆ (1866-1941), METROPOLITAN OF DABAR AND BOSNIA
Dedication
through Temptations
He hasn’t been given peaceful and blissful times, but he had everything a true Christ’s soldier needs in times completely different from the wished ones. Because of his nobleness and goodness, he has indeed been beloved, which executioners rarely forgive. It remains unknown whether he ended his life in Jadovno, Jasenovac or Zagreb, but it is known that he suffered for the sake of the Godman By: Hristina Plamenac
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t. Petar Zimonjić belongs to the most educated and greatest arch-shepherds of his time. Despite this, little has been spoken or written about this life, while his death has remained a mystery up to the present day. He was born on June 24, 1866 in Grahovo, as the youngest son of Mara and Bogdan Zimonjić, priest and duke in Herzegovina. After finishing the Reljevo Seminary, (18831887), he enrolled at the Orthodox Seminary Faculty in Chernovitz (in present-day Ukraine), the highest educational institution of its kind in Austro-Hungary. After completing his studies (1887-1893), he spent a year at the Vienna University, and was later appointed professor of the Reljevo Seminary, where he was a distinctive and extraordinary pedagogue. As a professor, he entered the monastery of Žitomislić in 1895 (September 6). FOLLOWING THE FOOTSTEPS OF VASILIJE OF OSTROG Six years later, in 1901, he became the consistorial advisor of the Archbishopric of Dabar and Bosnia, where he was elected Metropolitan of Zahumlje and Herzegovina. After hearing that the bishop is arriving by train, about 4.000 souls gathered at the station, including Muslims and Catholics. Old (ninety-one year old) duke Bogdan was also at the station, not to greet his son, but his bishop.
All the deepness of St. Peter’s gentle and dignified personality may be seen in his salutary speech. For, indeed, he was one of those people whose deeds speak best of them, by which we can recognize them best. “What shall I say to you, my dear kindred, from which I have sprouted and to whom I owe so much? I would most rather enjoy with you and have long conversations. I would have reason both to scold and to praise you. But I shall not praise you, since I am afraid I would hurt your pride with such words; I shall also not scold you, since then there is nothing to praise myself with…” He found disorder in the eparchy. A series of tragic historical events soon followed. First, all hopes for liberation were lost after the annexation of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Then followed the Balkan Wars, and then World War I started with the prosecution and killing of priests in B&H. During this time, the Metropolitan, as any caring father, did everything possible and impossible for his people, earning respect during his lifetime, similar to his great predecessor St. Vasilije of Ostrog
Three Versions of Death Presently there are three versions of Metropolitan Petar’s death. First: he was taken to Koprivnica from Gospić, and then to the Zagreb hospital in Stanjevac, where he was killed. Second: he was taken to the camp in Jadovno, on Velebit, and thrown into the Šaran’s pit – the largest known scaffold of Serbs. According to the third version, he was killed in Jasenovac and “thrown into the flaming furnace for baking brick”. In any case, it is certain that he suffered and died as a martyr for Christ. SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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Meeting of Serbian saints, an icon
and Tvrdog. Despite the difficult times and fear that such times provoked, St. Petar managed to raise and restore churches, and to ordain priests. During his time, the Metropolitan Court in Mostar was built (burnt down by the Croatian paramilitary units in 1992). After the war ended, he comprehensively worked on uniting the Serbian Orthodox Church, and then, after the establishment of the Patriarchy, upon the request of the Church, in 1920 he was transferred to the Archbishopric of Dabar and Bosnia lectureship. If there had been any animosity and hostility after World War I, the bishop did much to end the hostilities, tensions and distrust, and to heal the wounds of war. He often went for walks through the Muslim suburb. Seeing him come, people would come out of their shops and coffee shops and greet him with respect.
Unforgivable Metropolitan Petar Zimonjić did what no one before or after him was able to do in B&H – he calmed down the passions and eliminated misunderstandings. He was truly loved among the people. But the way he taught and acted in such an evil and unscrupulous time, and in such a space, was unforgivable.
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HOPES AND HERALDS OF TEMPESTS After the death of Patriarch Varnava (poisoned during the most extreme fights over the concordat), St. Petar was one of the candidates for Patriarch. Besides him, Gavrilo Dožić and Georgije Zubković were also suggested to the royal officials. Gavrilo Dožić was elected as Patriarch. During the times when Petar Zimonjić was arch-shepherd of the Archbishopric of Dabar and Bosnia, the people began attending liturgies regularly, took an active part in building temples, schools were opened, a Children Home and Kitchen for the Poor. One of the last reports of the Metropolitan to the Holy Archpriest Synod testifies about all this. Then began World War II and the bombing of Sarajevo on Holy Wednesday in 1941. The Metropolitan was evacuated to the Monastery of Holy Trinity near Pljevlja. Although he knew that his eventual return would mean certain death, his fatherly care for his people still took him back to Sarajevo, on the second day of Easter. A week after came the German officers for inquest. They accused the elderly bishop
for all sorts of things and threatened him. The bishop, as a man respecting others and always defending his own, politely replied: “Sir, you are very wrong, we are not to blame for the war, but we will not allow to be killed. I do not fear of death threats, since I am already with one foot in my grave.” A few days later, the Ustasha delegate in Bosnia, the Roman-Catholic parson of Sarajevo Božidar Brale, contacted him and asked him to order the clergy not to write in Cyrillic letters any more and to replace the Cyrillic seals with the Latin alphabet, since the Cyrillic alphabet has become illegal in NDH (Independent State of Croatia). The chronicles state that the Metropolitan’s reply was short: “Cyril’s alphabet cannot be canceled in 24 hours.” Then Brale asked him to repeat it to his commissioner for education Vučko, which the Metropolitan did. As, besides everything, he also refused to hold a gratitude service for Pavelić, he expected them to come any moment and take him away. TORTURING PLACES AND SCAFFOLDS
Reconciled and brave, as a true soldier of Christ, carrying his wreath of thorns, he began each sermon with: “Dear God…” He disappeared without trace in Gospić. The Serbian Orthodox Church attempted in every way to find something out about Metropolitan Petar and Episcope of Gornji Karlovac Sava. They received a response that they were in none of the concentration camps in NDH. During 1942, “a story came out” that the bishop has a disease of the nerves and that he is “taken care of in the hospital in Stanjevac, Zagreb”. The Metropolitan of Skopje Josif, who (in the absence of the imprisoned Patriarch Gavrilo) presided over the Holy Archpriest Synod, asked the government president Milan Nedić to find something out about the Metropolitan from the German authorities. The reply stated that “his residence could not be determined”. In 1998, at the regular session of the Serbian Orthodox Church Holy Archpriest Synod, he was proclaimed as a holy martyr and “joined the other holy ones from the Serbian nation and of Christian-Orthodox faith. The Serbian church celebrates him in the third week of September…” w
Saint Petar Zimonjić, an icon
That very thing happened on May 12, 1941 (on the day of St. Vasilije). The Ustasha police agents came and took him to the police station. Then he was transferred to the “Beledija” general prison. He was completely isolated, and it was impossible to make any contact with him. Three days later, two agents brought the bishop back to, allegedly, take what he needs. They also ordered the safe to be opened, and they took the panagias, medals and documents. (Decades later, the Metropolitan of Dabar and Bosnia Vladislav, during his business trip to Zagreb, found a protocol with the list of things which were taken. Of all the things, only those which could not be sold remained: diplomas and decrees about the medals). The bishop was taken to Zagreb and put in a police prison under file number 29781. From there he was transferred to the “Kerestinac” camp where he was cruelly tortured and maltreated. When the camp was dissolved on June 15, the Metropolitan was taken to the Ustasha camp in Gospić. The torturing, derision and humiliation continued. He was taken out in the most terrible rain shower to, alone in the yard, “preach as he used to preach to the Serbs in Sarajevo”. SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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MOMO KAPOR (1937-2010), WRITER AND PAINTER, ONE OF THOSE WHO NEVER LEAVE
Ode to
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Momčilo had been Republika Srpska before we were even thinking about it. Herzegovina in jeans, gusle history on Champs Elysées and Manhattan, noble wanderer with strong roots in his birth stone. “From his stories one was able to live like Scheherazade. Next to him one would become nostalgic, witty and cheerful. Nobody was able to, with so much charm, bring us closer to others and teach us how to love our people.” He would have never forgave us had the first edition of National Review “Srpska” been published without him, and he left us a suitcase full of articles for that. Here is one, in the glory of the dish that kept us alive as much as humor and song
W
hen Europe betrays and abandons us, when the table is laid without English roast beef, Italian spaghetti, French cheeses and German sauces, then we return to Serbian beans as our last reliable retreat, to the national dish that has never failed us. We munch the beans and complain to each other: “Until we’ve got it into our beans, they’ve left us in the lurch!” Interestingly, I’ve never managed to cook beans for two: at a minimum for six! Fortunately, an old rule says that beans are more delicious the following day, after standing awhile... This is actually a dish that one can hardly eat alone. It is more than mere food, it’s practically a national metaphor – an invitation to socialize at the table or around the cauldron, to renew closeness, or it can be a symbol of spite, “Come what may, I’d rather eat lean beans then go along with...” “Silk you wear – beans you eat!” goes an old proverb. When the doomsayers frighten me with stories of approaching hardship, I go to Kalenić green market, wander between stands and look at the heaps of dry beans. There you have the white-colored beans known as Tetovac, beans known as Gradištanac, mottled Cranberry ovals – the
More Than a Joke Unpretentious but lucid, Momo Kapor left us many unforgettable sentences-aphorisms that are much more than a joke. “You do not have to bring us back the King, bring us back the Homeland!” he would say to our proven allies and traditional friends. And sworn Freudists would be teased as follows: “Psychoanalysis is a disease that spreads through therapy.” And the famous sentence that he attributed once to Leonardo, once to Claude Simon, once to Stendhal, and which is truly his own: “I used to believe that throughout my life I was learning how to live, while I was actually learning how to die.”
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dark and small beans that return hope that we shall once more overcome difficulties. After all, we’ve grown up on beans and there is no reason not to grow old with them! The Great National Cook Book that records some thirty dishes made of dry beans (old Belgraders even used to make beanbased face masks) claims that the bean, in addition to Vitamin A, contains some 24 organic elements of which ten are vital for the human body. AS THE PAPULE OF BLACK GEORGE Serbs naively believe that they invented the bean (like everything else)! True, Vienna’s menus have for centuries offered bean soup with smoked meat under the showy name Serbische Bohnensoupe, and until the latest wars Serbian-style beans was a specialty of the “Gradski Podrum” in Zagreb. Though it was Krleža’s favorite dish, they removed it from the menu when they got sick of everything. The bean, Phaseolus vulgaris in Latin, belongs to the genus Papilionaceous, and arrived to our region from Peru in the late sixteenth and the beginning of the seventeenth centuries. Almost every nation has several bean dishes in its national cuisine. The French cassoulet with its many variations, the Basque bowl, the Bretagne beans with lamb, the Catalonian or Greek shepherd’s beans, the Israeli pot with onion, barley and beef, the Mexican chilli con carne, the Tuscany beans with young courgettes (zucchini), potatoes and leek, the Romanian dish with French beans, the Columbian with corn kernels and bananas, the Tunisian couscous with mutton and corn flour, ‘šajkaški’ cooked by Danube fishermen, not to mention ‘janija’, broths and salads, even the Latin American turnovers with beans called empanada! There is also the Dalmatian pastafagioli with mac-
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aroni and an old bone, a remnant of the prosciutto consumed long ago, cooked for who knows how long just to give a trace of flavor to this dish of the poor. The Istrian ‘maneschtra’ is cooked with potatoes, pearl barley and young corn: the jota with smoked mutton, and the famed Kordun beans with smoked pork legs and potatoes! Old chroniclers mention that the Vožd Karađorđe, who didn’t like to eat at the household he might find himself in, always carried with him the papula (mashed beans) in a wooden bowl with a cover called zastruga, which he only had to re-fry with pork fat and onion. When I’m in the white world I dream about fatless lean monastery beans that elevate one to spirituality and asceticism. After this dish one drinks cool spring water in a misted-over glass. However hard I tried while abroad, I’ve never managed to cook baked beans gravče na tavče, which is cooked in an earthen pot. For my nostalgic compatriots I’ve even smuggled a string of Leskovac dry peppers to America on numerous occasions, which are stuffed with golden beans. SIMPLE AS BEAN The taste of the bean dishes prepared by our grandmas remain out of reach to us, as they would let beans soak for up to 24 hours before putting them to cook with the obligatory bay leaf and some chopped carrots to make it more appetizing, along with the unavoidable Horgoš paprika. When we were hungry and poor, the waiters in “Kolarac” would call out orders through the kitchen counter for all to hear, “De gol”! – meaning the lean fatless bean dish, as people had to raise and educate children. The late actor Paja Vujisić, together with his brother Dujo, used to cook the celebrated beans in a cauldron at his river house at Ada Ciganlija, and would offer it to those sailing along that floating feast. The salad was fresh cabbage. In autumn, roast peppers with plenty of garlic. Wine, the cheapest. Serbs are, it seems, the only people in the world who crave, of all beans, army beans! When you prepare the riches bean dish for your closest friends, complete with smoked ribs, bacon and smoked pork joints, they longingly claim that they have never tasted such good beans as in the army! This is probably because they cook it without brown sauce, because it is eaten in the flower of youth and because it contains the taste of friendship, danger and risk. Elin Pelin’s Jan Bibian used the long green bean plant to reach the Moon. Perhaps the bean will help us, too, reach the stars. In these hard times, old women tell fortunes from the kernels of beans. What does the future hold for us? I don’t know, but the matter is as simple as beans! s
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BRANKO ĆOPIĆ (1915–1984), UNFORGETTABLE POET OF CHILDHOOD AND BATTLES, WRITER OF A THOUSAND STORIES OF THE COLOR OF MALLOW
A View of the World from Our Window He was a writer-institution, with several talents living inside him. He was raised on the folk heroic history, oral tradition and fairytale images, in the homeland of humorous stories and fables; he recognized the dimension of the classics of ancient cultures in Serbian heritage. Born amidst the First, participant and poet of the Second World War, he wanted to confront the cruelness of the world with gentleness, beauty and humor. His teachers were folk poets, Njegoš, Kočić, Matavulj. And from the Slavic lands Hashek, Gogol and Chekhov
By: Dragan Lakićević
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T
he village of Hašani is a famous place of our literature. It seems to many readers of Ćopić that they grew up there as well – in the picturesque lands with Ćopić’s picturesque characters: that homeland, with its mountains, valleys, rivers and caves, especially characters – seemed more familiar to us than the lands we were actually born and raised in. That is the contribution of authentic literature: to make the reader see and experience something better and deeper than his or her own life. He spent his childhood between two mountains: Grmeč and his grandfather. What he said about his grandfather could have been said about Grmeč as well – “his enchanted world, all made of fairytales and imagination, moonlight and transparent silk…” Born in Bosnia, he considered Lika his homeland: “When things get rough in Bosnia, he flees to Lika...” MOTHERLAND He spent his first night in Belgrade under the bridge on the Sava, which starts from the street of his namesake Radičević, after whom his mother named him, and connects the old and New Belgrade, the old and new world. The entire literature of Branko Ćopić is on the crossing of the old and the new. From archaic tradition, myth and beliefs, from the memories of ancient ancestors, uprisings and hayduks – Branko’s generation, the procession of his literary characters, crossed into a new, school, city, modern world. Some left to school, some to a brigade, some were colonized, some introduced electricity, which light replaced the images of the Fire-Bird and shed light on the dark corners of imagination, shadows, wraiths, language… The soul. In the middle of that road was the revolution. It couldn’t have been seen that well from the flames and smoke of war. Besides, the revolution gave the war a different, tragic face: foreign armed forces really attacked the motherland and, according to the request of ancestors, one should defend it: “… At the end he writes: ‘Dear mountain, / soldiers are attacking you, / I’m defending you to the last bullet / and I’ll give my life for you’.” Everyone defended it in his or her own way and company. Branko defended the soul, the goodness, the innocence – the childhood of his people. He wrote enthusiastic verses of marches and lamenting tones of jeremiads alongside
Nikoletina In that battle, which somehow resembled the ancient battles and hayduks, our writer was most affectionate towards the village fighters pulled into a new heroic fairytale by their instincts to defend their homes, homeland and honor. The most remarkable among them was Nikoletina – the augmentative of the name of the Christian saint and traditional protector of the home, a great name for a great hero, comprised of shyness and courage, honesty and clumsiness at the same time. He was beautifully illustrated by Zuko Džumhur in his caricatures.
the complex structure of that war, which he understood as a breakdown – in the world, society, in the individual. Perhaps most breakdowns happened in the people and their being. His novel Breakdown, different from the humorous and joyful lyrical image of the “blazing birth of motherland”, remained misunderstood and unread, therefore spared from the criticism of the winners’ singleminded view of the war and revolution, which lasted longer than natural or necessary, until the defeat of the revolution’s heritage. The surplus of truth and history in that novel overshadowed the lyrical beauty and wittiness of poetry… They say Ivo Andrić said that “he has never read a book with more windows”. Branko Ćopić was a lyrical soul. However, another two persons lived in his gift: a narrator and a humorist. The narrator came from the homeland of folk narrators about Ćosa, Era, Nasradin, and the humorist was related to Simeun Đak, Pilipenda, Ćorkan. He began with melancholic love stories – and published many of them as a young man in Politika before the war. When he was awarded with the “Milan Rakić” prize before World War II, it was his first time to see a thousand dinar bill. And his mates in the army wondered how private Ćopić, so bad in marches, could get the award of the Serbian Royal Academy. His first books Under Grmeč and Fighters and Runaways were published in Belgrade by Geca Kon, and in 1940, at the age of twenty-five, his collection of stories Highlanders was published in the Serbian Literary Cooperative. That same year, in the “Golden Book” edition, his book for children In the Kingdom of Butterflies and Bears came out... Then the war began. In that war, the enemy killed Geca Kon, publisher of Branko’s book for children, and Branko’s fellow soldiers shot, without a trial, the president of the institution that published Highlanders… SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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Lib r a r y POETIC MEDAL A “facsimile of a shapilographic print of a poem from 1942” – “Young Mara” was saved from the war. That war made the border between literature for children and literature for adults even softer. Nikoletina Bursać appeared in novels for adults, and then in a separate cycle of stories about the Krajina hero and gunner with a soft heart, as well in the pioneer trilogy – about children who first rise against injustice in the village school and soon after against injustice in the world order... He saw the war and revolution as a great uprising of all people, young and old, ancestors and descendants – to defend freedom, the motherland and all the values of the world and humans. That is why it was necessary to describe and write about hundreds of feats, heroes, participants of epic battles, which – for this writer – took place in Kozara and Sutjeska, as well as in many smaller, yet not less important battles, among common people, in their unique hearts. He did celebrate “heroes of the folk uprising”, but more remarkable for him were those awarded with the poetic, not the state medal: Defiant Marija, Nikoletina, Brane Desnica. All these poems in his books Blazing Birth of Motherland, The Spring of a Warrior, Battle Lyre of Pioneers, The Army, Your Defense, Sad Fairytales of Partisans – could be just one poem: “The Poem of Dead Proletarians”. Besides “Mother of a Hero”, “Lesson in Geography”, “On the Petrovac Road”, it is Ćopić’s most beautiful poem from the war. Together with his poems from the time of peace, dominated by verses for children – poems with supreme humor, goodness, knowledge of childhood – they make a selection of the best poetry of Branko Ćopić. New heroes in them cannot be separated from old knights: “Before the eye of each warrior, while he was thinking of revenge, stood Obilić Miloš, Strahinić and Kosovo.” The Serbian poet wouldn’t be great if he hadn’t brought his character near Kosovo. Nikoletina and Jovica Jež come to the place where the court of Serbian history stands: “Can you hear how the entire troop became silent? It is no joke, tomorrow we are walking the path Obilić thread upon.” From Kosovo, however, there is no other way but to eternity. Both the partisan poet Ćopić and his character, member of the Communist Party, know it – one can return to his homeland from a great feat and suffering only as an immortal: “Dear Lord – says Ćopić’s bitter grandmother – dear Lord, there come the dead men of Krajina. There comes the
Children and Adults He wrote his novel Heroes on Bihać for children and published it for adults. He later regretted for not having all the books about young heroes (Eagles Fly Early, Glorious Warfare, Battle in the Golden Valley) published in editions for adults. The border between children and adults in authentic books disappears itself.
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dead commander leading a dead warrior. Both as yellow as beeswax, both transfigured. Dear Lord, thank you for letting me see saints before my death.” LESSON IN GEOGRAPHY Boys appeared even before Nikoletina: Eagles Fly Early. In the manner of the hayduk epic poetry, as relatives of Little Radojica, sons of Old Vujadin and Old Novak, and in actions resembling those from Western movies about battles against injustice – chieftain Jovanče and his crowd showed up. Jovanče is the great-grandson of hayduk Jovan. Two Nikolas are with him: Nikoletina (big Nikola) and Nikolica s prikolicom (little Nikola with a trailer). (The writer’s uncle’s name was Nidžo – all people are named Nikola.) Then come the artisan for practical things, who will symbolically repair the school globe, and the artisan for putting together poems: Đoko Potrk, one of Ćopić’s doubles. A poet is implied in every squad: a gusle player or Skender – to sing Mother of the Jugovićs or Stojanka, Mother from Knežopolje, on the frontline in 1942... Great Ćopić was related both to the nameless folk humorous poet and to the greatest heights of Serbian poetry – Njegoš and Filip Višnjić... From the uprising in a small village school, successors of Nikoletina and Ćopić start off to a great uprising against Hitler and world evil. At the same time, on Grmeč, “Brane the Marksman” defends the wounded and studies the “lesson in geography”. Until time came to defend it, Brane didn’t know anything about his homeland. That battle gave the meaning to the character’s name (Brane – Defender)… Does that mean that only the country one defends to his or her death is worth something? It seems that this was not the last “lesson” of Ćopić’s heroes, although, luckily for him, Branko didn’t see the sequel of history. The Battle Lyre of Pioneers appeared in Zagreb in 1945. Wishing to fortify “brotherhood and unity”, smith in the war and revolution, the poet distributes poems and heroes in all parts of the big home-country: “Karpoš the Macedonian, hero from Kozjak, will be celebrated by his fatherland, every house will remember him.” To make the burden of the war easier for Zagreb, Branko mocked chetniks in this book: “Commander, dear brother, we have just caught a chetnik.” And in capital letters: “Serbs and Croats, true brothers! That’s all the wisdom you need.” At the time it was written, it wasn’t ironic. WORLD WOVEN OF GOODNESS From the end of the war to the end of his life, Brančilo published hundreds and hundreds of books and editions – repeated, collected, revised. His feature was “loyal and devoted to the Party”, but he lost his sleep because of his “Heretic Story” in the Literary Newspaper in 1950. “He was publicly attacked by Josip Broz himself ”, writes Branko’s biographer Radovan Popović (A SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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Lib r a r y Book about Ćopić or The Way to the Bridge). A harmless, semi-satirical story, below the writer’s average, became an unforgivable sin for “comrades” from the top of the state and Party – because its sting came close to their personal gain from the revolution. For much sharper satires, deeper truths and more devastating criticisms – they didn’t care. His poetics was in only one thought: “One should watch the world from his or her own window, however that window may be.” On the crossing from the old to the new, between lyricism and spirituality of childhood and reality and cruelness of politics and consequences – stands the famous book of Ćopić’s stories Garden of the Color of Mallow. A writer of a thousand stories, master of short form for children and adults, Branko chose subjects and motifs in the Garden, made an anthology of his soul and his narrative processes: lyrical-humorous approach to childhood, melancholic and introspective diving into the origins of human sensitivity. The world in childhood is woven of goodness and love, however after growing up in the second part of the book and a new layer of stories, the world becomes bitter with knowledge, interests, betrayed hopes… The pivot of childhood and protector of the boywriter was “grandpa Rade”, the home deity with features of an icon, caped with a magical coat of human warmth and goodness. His poems Hedgehog’s Home, Grandpa Triša’s Mill and Sad Partisan Fairytales were stories in verses, written as anthems of love and courage. Opposite from them are humorous anthological fables: “Three-Floor Patient” and “Fair in Strmoglavac”, the cycles of poems-advertisements, lyrical fables and lyrical fairytales (“The Moon and Its Grandma”)… And opposite from the anthological stories from the old times and legends (“Last Descendant of the Great Fighter”) are anthological urban stories (“Bata and the Police Officers”). Or the magical humorous experiment, a joke with a literary procedure – “Upside-Down Story”, which, alleg-
Loan to the People He published six books in 1946, and in 1948, the most read writer of Yugoslavia gave a hundred thousand dinars for the National Loan, much more than other writers did in the action “writers to their country” (Isidora Sekulić). Once, in that country, Desanka Maksimović wrote that one could pave the way from Belgrade to Zagreb with Branko Ćopić’s books. He became member of the Serbian Academy of Science and Arts in 1968.
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edly, suffered an earthquake: “Just as the hill came up from the sun, the bed sprung from the big old man, he put on feet on his shoes, put a head on his cap and opened the house of the door: – Look, the earth sprinkled the rain well last night – said the moustache rolling his old man…” The greatest wisdoms and abundance of goodness vibrate close to the naive village humorists. That’s Ćopić. SWAN SONGS AND STORIES In the year 1971, his anthology of poems My Girl from Bosanska Krupa was published
in Sarajevo. With it, the writer returned to the poet. He turned the material from the famous novel Teenage Years into elegies: he wrote about his school years and life in the students’ home in Bihać, joys and sorrows, first loves, meeting the big world getting bigger. He wrote Stories under the Chipped Moon and Hedgehog’s House in the dialect spoken in Serbia, and returned to this childhood by writing in the dialect he spoke in his homeland. In an elegiac manner, at the end of his life in 1978, another important book was published by “Prosveta”: Village Cemetery. It contains twelve epitaphs from a small village cemetery, where his favorite heroes, cousins
and compatriots of our writer rest: a great Branko Ćopić young man, peasant Đukan, miner from Minspent his first nesota, heroes of Krajina, courageous Gojko, night in Belgrade Mikailo the thief, policeman Todor, peasant sleeping under Jovan, “merry woman”… As the shadows of this bridge on the former heroes-defenders of the threshold Sava, and made of old lynxes used to pass before the Lonely his last step Lynx, the last descendants of the Great Fighter, from it so the shadows of grandpa Rade, Nikoletina and others are once again passing through the gardens of dream and reality of Branko Ćopić. He is somewhere there with them. No one is dead – they are all in books. s (The author is editor-in-chief of Srpska književna zadruga) SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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G ifts HOW TO DISCOVER THE BLESSING OF WINE CELLARS OF TVRDOŠ MONASTERY NEAR TREBINJE IN HERZEGOVINA
The Spark in the Wine and in the Man By: Slavomir Ćirović © Tvrdoš Monastery
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Monks of this monastery, with Prior Sava, on the basis of long traditions began a new chapter in Serbian monastery wine-making. They are taking care of 70 hectares of vine in Trebinjsko polje and they planted 60 more hectares of young vineyards in Popovo polje. Right there, between the mighty stone hills and the wisdom of the nearby sea, they get delicious wine, like nowhere else in the world
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Vineyard and wine cellars of Tvrdoš Monastery
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rebišnjica River goes through the stone bed of Herzegovina and as a rosary of time, it gathers years and people, rulers and warriors, poets and priests: from the mysterious Illyrians and Tribals, through Romans, all the way to the Serbian name, from the holy Apostles Peter and Paul to saints of the Serbian church, Saint Sava and Saint Vasilije, from Justinian to the Nemanjić Kosač dynasties, from the Turks to the uprisers of Herzegovina, from gusle players to Jovan Dučić. Between mountains and the sea, Trebinje is standing as a rosebush between rocks. In the mixed blood of highlanders and the people from the sea, a unique character was formed, made of the strength of a stone and the wisdom of water, a character which enriches the existence of the Serbian people in Travunija, Zahumlje and Hum. Wars were waging, they washed off the memories and the salt of wisdom on the hills of Trebinje. Some wounds are still fresh, and many old wounds are still not healed. However, we were welcomed by Dučić’s morning under Leotar Mountain, streams mild as Sava’s words, a beautiful vision in the clouds above the monastery. We see Trebinjsko polje in front of us, with vine
Story This wine cannot be described otherwise, but through a story full of mystery and poetry, full of silent fire and memories, because it is the only true story of it, a story which lasts for centuries, and which will last for a very long time.
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which wears different rosaries and which keeps the secret of the red wine of Herzegovina, the secret of the original divine in the wine and in the man. Monks of Tvrdoš Monastery, with Prior Sava, on the basis of long traditions began a new chapter in Serbian monastery winemaking. They are taking care of 70 hectares of vine in Trebinjsko polje and they planted 60 more hectares of young vineyards in Popovo polje. It is now certain that the words from the old epic song about Tvrdoš and its famous cellars will appear again in front of us, about the “monastery shack filled with wine”. Traces show that the wine cellars in Trvrdoš existed in the 15th century. Trebinjsko and Popovo polje are very fertile areas, created by rinsing of the soil from surrounding hills. Former rich forests were cleared away, mostly during the reign of the Dalmatians, after in the period of Austria-Hungary, so the erosion brought all fertile soil to Trebinjsko and Popovo polje. Hot summers and mild winters, an expressive sub-Mediterranean climate, stone soil with the most fertile terrain – all make ideal conditions for wine-making, which is extracted from the stone and the dry soil, from the sun and the winds which collide above Trebinje, from the mountains and from the sea. Vranac and žilavka are made here for centuries. They say that this is the original birth place of žilavka, and vranac was brought here, absorbing the special character of the area, giving very special wines.
Vranac or “tvrdoško crno” is a first-class wine. We remember it for its clear purple colour, for the scents of Trebinjsko polje in the summertime (full of wormwood from which bees bring famous honey), for its strength and full taste which comes from the warm stone on which it ripens, for its miraculous mixture of tastes of cherry and fig making a harmony of mild freshness, as the summer dusk which is falling on cold Trebišnjica. But, this is the wine of tranquillity, monastery silence and gentleness of monks who nourish it. DESERVING THE WINE When you find that wine in your town or village, nearby or far away, where you were born or where you came afterwards, when you reach your hand for it, you can read a lot on its nicely designed declaration that will bring you back the story, so old but yet always new. You shall read that the geographic origin of the wine is from Petropavlovsko polje, Trebinje, East Herzegovina, that its type is red and dry. Its sort: vranac. You shall learn that it is prepared in a traditional way. Fermentation is made in big oak barrels, in old monastery cellars. In the style of old wine-maker of Herzegovina, the grape is left to ripen for a very long time on huskus, so that vranac could get more coloured and tannin materials, which give the wine its structure and full taste. “As a real product of the area of Herzegovina, this wine charms you with its purple colour, impressive extract, fruit aroma and taste which reminds you of ripe cherries and figs”. If you have visited the web-site of wine cellars of Tvrdoš (www.tvrdos.com) you will remember: “Its full taste and refreshing acids give it strong energy and unlimited possibilities of bringing it to harmony with food. It goes great with smoked and dried meat, with ripe whole milk cheese, oil cheese, all sorts of smoked fish, grilled eel, all sorts of roasted meat, especially lamb. It also goes well with barbecue meat. We especially recommend it with liver specialties. Try it with liver in bacon or with bacon and prunes.” Stop and listen to yourself. “Listen it through yourself.” If you felt it, take it. If you did not, go further. This is not the wine for you, and your not for it either. The wine of Tvrdoš is served at room temperature. Experts recommend decanting. s SRPSK A SPECIAL EDITION 2013
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The Drina branches in Semberija
The Drina in the upper part of its canyon The Pliva River Miracles of Herzegovina (above) Stanari mine near Doboj (below)
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ENCOUNTER BETWEEN AN ARTIST AND HIS COUNTRY
Documents about Beauty Slobodan Krstić (Dragaljevac near Bijeljina, 1947). Master of photography, in the full sense of that word. When in 1962, in the first grade of high school, he got his first camera as the winner of a literary competition, he could not have known that it was his encounter with his own destiny. At the age of twenty, as a student of mechanical engineering in Belgrade, he finished the School of Photography organized by Photo Club “Elektromašinac”, and already in 1970 he participates in exhibitions of art photography across the former country and abroad. Critics say that he is “prone to a summary”, “more plastic than narrative elements”. “Krstić’s finger makes a decision only when the visual reality overlaps with the artist’s spiritual reality, when he is certain that he is revealing a secret to us, giving joy and curiosity.” He started with life photography and portrait of common people, there around us. He achieved high levels in act photography. His approach to the subject of woman, both in act and in portrait, is very refined. Shrouded in the veil of shadow and ambiguity, all in emphasized contrasting light, hiding her body by exposing it, speaks in silence and dresses in her own memory. However, the real peak of Krstić’s art is his mature encounter with Srpska. Landscape, that of his homeland, especially rural, and images of unspoiled nature. Horses on a meadow below the mountain. Sunrise over a canyon and sunset on a lake. Old house with thatched roof, stork nest on top of it. Shepherd next to his herd, with an umbrella. Buildings, predominantly bridges, like the one on the Žepa and in Višegrad, which are the object of camera’s admiration in a way that resembles Andrić... He is one of those old masters who are hunting for light and colors in the nature, in god’s creation, and not in Photoshop. He has published photo-monographs Bardača, Kamengrad, Golden Age, Postcard of Bijeljina, but the crown of his previous work are certainly Srpska, a Country of Impressions and Over the Sky above Republika Srpska. Therefore, it is not by accident that exactly photographs by Slobodan Krstić are the beginning and the end of the zeroth edition of Srpska – National Review. You don’t have to trust us, trust your own eyes. s
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The Bileća Lake
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Andrić’s Lane “At the beginning of all roads and paths, at the basis of the very thought of them, lies sharply and indelibly carved the path on which I made my first free steps... And on all the roads and ways that I passed later in my life, I lived only on that poor happiness, on my Višegrad idea of the richness and beauty of the created world. Because, under all the worldly roads, there has always flowed, visible and palpable only to me, the sharp Višegrad path, from the day I left it, up to this day. Actually, I’ve used it to measure my step and adjust my walk. And all my life it has never left me.” (Ivo Andrić: Paths)
Monument to Ivo Andrić in Kamengrad, Višegrad