year VI 2012 free copy www.nacionalnarevija.com
tourism 2012 despite the crisis
Ohrid City
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Serbia GEO-POETICAL ALBUM
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Este libro que tiene delante podríamos denominar un álbum, un testimonio colección de documento o una s. No quiere persuadir. No propaga, no impone, no es un portavoz, un abogado, da vueltas. No un agente publicitario parlanchín. Tampoco es un periodista turístico, abismado en palabrería y en aquella forma de auto-apagam Como en algún antiguo iento llamado la rutina. viaje largo y lindo cuando se sienta en el tren y abre de la ventana, pasarán aquí las cortinas numerosas imágenes delante de sus ojos. Mírelos con calma curiosidad, de forma descubrido y ra, con sus propios y con los ojos de otros a los que sobre ese viaje. Algunas contará de estas imágenes recordará instantáneamente, a otras vez en cuando renovando volverá de sus vínculos finos, y tal vez todas ellas converjan en un retrato mosaico grande en una imagen, de Serbia que llevará consigo para siempre. Y no se olvide de la advertencia de uno de los príncipes más desafortunados de literatura mundial: „Sólo la gente superficial no juzga por la apariencia. El misterio del mundo es lo visible, verdadero no lo invisible.”
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Il de documents. témoignage, recueil porteêtre appelé album, re pas. Il n’est ni vous pourrait se pas, il n’exagè Le livre devant infecté par e pas, il n’impo iste touristique, der. Il ne propag . Il n’est ni journal n’aspire pas à persua long voyage de publicité bavard e dans un beau, agent ni Comm . avocat, parole, ni nommé routine sur la fenêtre, de forme d’auto-éteinte et écartez les rideaux des clichés et cette z dans un train t et curieusement, vous vous installe tranquillemen à l’ancienne, quand vous. Regardez-les vous raconterez passeront devant de ceux à qui s yeux et les yeux nombreuses images aux autres vous tout de suite, eur, avec vos propre rez cherch retiend re, elles dans l’esprit images vous subtile, et peut-êt es-unes de ces votre relation erez pour ce voyage. Quelqu et renouvellerez que vous emport temps en temps ue de la Serbie retournerez de portrait mosaïq grand un seule, littérature deviendront une princes de la reux malheu toujours. vrai mystère t d’un des plus apparences. Le l’avertissemen pas juger sur les ne Et n’oubliez pas pour légers a que les esprits mondiale : “Il n’y l’invisible.” le visible, et non du monde est
ALBUM GÉO
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SERBIA ◆ ÁLBUM GEOPOÉTICO
GEO-POETICAL ALBUM
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ГЕО ом, ом, свидетельств назвать альбом руках, можно андирует, не вы держите в ь. Она не пропаг прессстремится убедит дение. Она не тов. Она не ввести в заблуж . Она не турне старается коммивояжер енное мнение, цию продук ий свою старинное Она похожа на ат, не рекламирующ й стереотипы. ски, описывающи раздвигаете занаве ыми фразами сь на поезд и когда вы садите Разглядывайте путешествие, х за окном видов. проплывающи глазами тех, глазами, но и ться мельканием своими только вам запомнится смотрите не бознательно, ествии. Что-то , а может об этом путеш инаний зывать удете расска кую нить воспом й воссоздать тонень Сербии, которы нужно будет ный портрет большой мозаич сольется в один не мелочные люди ти навсегда. туры: «Лишь ка мировой литера от глаз.» удьте слова класси ен, а не скрыт щий мир очевид Настоя . згляду
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SERBIE
Serbia
The book before you could be called an album, testimony, anthology of documents does not want to persuade. . It It does not propagate, does not impose, does not spin. PR, lawyer, blabby advertising It is not a agent. Neither is it a tourist reporter, steeped into phrases the type of self-termina and tion called routine. Just like on a long and beautiful journey, when you sit in old-fashioned a train and open curtains on the window, numerous unraveling in front of you. images will be Watch them calmly and with curiosity, as an explorer, eyes and eyes of those to with your whom you will be telling about the journey. Some you will remember right of these images away, the others you will occasionally retrieve and fine connection, and maybe restore your all of them will merge into one, into a large mosaic Serbia that you will carry portrait of forever. And do not forget the warning of one of the most ill-fortuned princes in world literature: “It is only shallow people who do not judge by appearance s. The true mystery of the is the visible, not the invisible. world ”
SERBIA ◆ GEO-POETICAL ALBUM
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Exceptional monograph on Serbia, in separate editions in five languages! Serbian, Russian, English, Spanish, French! The most beautiful Serbia, on the palm of your hand! Anthology of photo-documents on beauty! Give it proudly, as a gift to yourself and others, here or anywhere else in the world! Use the opportunity and get special discounts! Call “Princip Pres“!
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PROLOGUE TOURISM ON TRIAL IN 2012
Publisher: „Princip Press” Editorial Office, Cetinjska 6 Phone: + 381 (11) 322 70 34, 322 16 92 Fax: + 381 (11) 324 56 21 www.turistinfosrbija.com On Behalf of the Publisher: Mišo Vujović, Director and Editor-in-Chief Deputy Editor-in-Chief and Publication Editor: Branislav Matić Technical Editor: Aleksandar Ćosić Photography Editor: Dragan Bosnić Cover Page: Jovan Željko Rajačić Texts by: Milovan Vitezović, Dragan Nedeljković, priest Jovan Plamenac, Dragan Lakićević, Jovan Pejčić, Dragan Mraović, Srba Janković , Bojan Mandić, Dragan Bulatović, Petar Milatović, Ljiljana Dugalić, Jovo Bajić, Milena Z. Bogavac, Vojislav Filipović, Saša Šarković, Zoran Plavšić, Helena Duković, Vlada Arsić, Dragana Bukumirović, Dejan Đorić, Dejan Bulajić, Roza Sazdić, Lenka Šibalija Photographs: Željko Sinobad, Matija Koković, Aleksandar Ćosić, Branko Jovanović, Rade Bošnjak, Stanoje Radulović Illustrations: Mile Kulačić, Predrag Todorović Translated by: Sandra Gagić, “Globe Translations“, Belgrade Marketing: Mirko Vujović, Irena Stolić Distribution: Milenko Vasilić Office Secretary: Jelena Jović, Dragana Dimitrijević Printing: „Portal” (Beograd)
In the Shadow of Global Crisis T
he years of crisis are both behind and in front of us. Global, financial, crisis of the system. Its sinister murmur, interleaved with the latest generation of identically packed wars, pervades hundreds of countries and billions of our individual lives. The magicians of speculative economy (George Soros), key geostrategists of postmodern imperialism (Zbigniew Brzezinski), the most serious scientists of today (Joseph Stiglitz), keep proving that the breakdown of the system is in progress. Singing worshipers of infinite progress turned into prophets of an upcoming catastrophe. In such circumstances, tourism is one of the most vulnerable branches of economy. The source of the crisis is in the dark heart of the empire and parasitic nature of its hegemonistic currency, defended with nuclear warheads, however it is no accident that tourist world powers have stumbled already under the first wave of the redirected impact. Greece is facing the abyss of bankruptcy, Italy, Spain and Portugal are in the entrance hall of drama, Egypt and Tunisia are burning on the edge of a telecontrolled civil war. So? What are we doing here, at the International Tourism Fair in Belgrade? The need of the people to travel, see, experience, learn, rest, have fun, be healed – is stronger than anything previously mentioned. The business results of the previous tourism year show the same, including those recorded in the city you are guests of. People will, of course, travel this year as well. Perhaps with smaller budgets, shorter trips and more economically, but the tourist season will keep its liveliness and attractiveness. That is why we’re here. To tell more beautiful stories and make plans for the summer, winter. To crown the queen of Provence, admire the Tyrrhenian Coast, pay respect to Meteora. To embrace Ohrid, cheer Ljubljana, smile to Belgrade. To discover Niš, Leskovac, Lazarevac, not to resist Stara Planina and the salutary Serbian spas (Lukovska, Prolom, Ribarska, Vrnjačka). Not to bring bad luck. Welcome.
Partners of the Publication - Tourism 2012:
OHRID CITY
Cover page: Tourism 2012, collage of photographs (Photo: Archive of “National Review”)
THE SPECIALIZED HOSPITAL FROM VRNJAČKA BANJA
Часопис уписан у Регистар јавних гласила Републике Србије, бр. NV000385
TOURIST ORGANISATION OF VOJVODINA
Media partners:
CIP - Каталогизација у публикацији Народна библиотека Србије, Београд ISSN 1452-6905 = Национална ревија Србија COBISS.SR-ID 139088140
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RTS - PUBLIC SERVICE OF SERBIA
RTV VOJVODINA PUBLIC SERVICE
RTV SRPSKA
CONTENTS Panorama 04 Prologue 06 Chronology
Road Sign 08 Album: Garden of Good Hope 14 Experience: Places that We Go Back to 22 Notes: This Harsh Winter 26 Genius Loci: Jewels of Tyrrhenian Coast 32 Tradition: Being the Queen of Provence 38 Pilgrimages: The Meteora, Monastic City on the Rock
Magnifying Glass 44 R eminder: Serbia in the Accounts of Great People 50 S trategy: Dejan Veselinov, Director of TOB
Guide 56 Welcome: Belgrade 60 Destination: Niš 64 Catalog: Lazarevac 69 Invitation: Zagreb 70 Encounter: Ohrid 74 Discovery: Lukovska and Prolom Banja 78 Visit: Ribarska Banja 80 Health: “Merkur”, Vrnjačka Banja 85 Recommendation: „Pri Vodniku”, Ljubljana 86 Gastro: “The Old Customs House”, BG
Introducing 88 Knowledge: University “Singidunum”
www.250.rs
90 Insurance: DDOR 2012 Special Edition
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READ AGAIN TOURISM, A SUBJECTIVE CHRONOLOGY
Years, People, Events 1780’ The English people who have travelled through La Manche in order to visit Paris, the French Atlantic and Mediterranean coast, on the so-called grand tour, were called tourists. The word was later referring to all English travellers through the continent. Some time later, the word tourism occurred, including “travelling for pleasure”. 1882 In Dieppe, on the French coast of the Atlantic, the first bathing beach was open, and we could call it a tourist one 1834 Prince Miloš Obrenović got a scientific confirmation from Vienna that the waters of Soko Spa are healing and he issued a warrant to make a bathroom, a tavern and other buildings, which will later be considered as the first tourist capacities in modern Serbia. The first spa doctor was Leopold Erlich. The “First Emigration Agency” was formed in Basel, offering its services to the people who have decided to move across the Atlantic Ocean. 1837 The Prince’s office in Kragujevac issued an order to Sergeant Lazarević for treatment in Soko Spa. That document was the first ticket in Serbia. 1839 Rhine Journey was published as the first tourist guide. An edition of tourist guides will be named after the publisher of the book, Baedecker, and it will become a very popular literary-tourist genre. 1840 During the following 20 years, many famous hotels and taverns were open in Belgrade which could welcome foreign travellers and tourists (“Srpska kruna”, “Grčka kraljica”, “Bosna”, “Kasina”...) 1841 The British Thomas Cook organized a first massive journey on July 5th and 579 people travelled to the Congress of the Anti-Alcoholic Association. 1851 Thomas Cook officially established his agency “Thomas Cook”. That same year, he brought 165 thousand people to the World Exhibition in London 1856 Thomas Cook’s agency is taking tourists to Switzerland, introducing franchise for selling railway tickets for Europe and the USA and introducing the ticket 1861 The first Swedish travel agency started working in Stockholm 1862 “Putnik” was published in Novi Sad, “a journal for the educated and for fun”. Even though it cannot be called a travel magazine, it did propagandize tourist ideas
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The Englishman Thomas Bennett formed a tourist agency in Oslo (Christiania), the first one in Norway 1868 The Funding Association of Healing Sparkling Hot Water (Osnovateljno fundatorsko društvo lekovite kisele vruće vode) was established in Vrnjci Carl Stangen established the first German travel agency in Bonn. Until the end of the 19th century, besides England and Germany, six more European countries will have their own travel agencies. 1869 Cook is taking English tourists to Egypt, for the opening of the Suez Canal 1871 Finishing his pioneer mission, Thomas Cook and his agency organized the first travel around the world. “Dean & Dawson” Agency was established in England 1872 “Agenzia Fungezi”, San Francisco, the first travel agency in the USA 1873 “Agene Lubin” was established in Lion, the first travel agency in France 1876 “Lissone & Lindeman”, the first travel agency in Holland, as a part of the transport company having the same name 1878 “Chiari” travel agency started working in Milan, the first one in Italy 1881 “Frames Tours”, the third travel agency in England started working 1882 American Express Money Order was published by “American Express Company” and some time later the first Traveller’s Cheque was published 1884 The first railroad travel was organized in Serbia. King Milan Obrenović arrived in Niš with his escort and many guests, travelling on the new line between Belgrade and Niš, in a train prepared for this special event “Voyage Gerts” was established in Brussels, the first travel agency in Belgium 1888 “Polytechnic Tours”, the fourth travel agency in England in the 19th century, offered its packages in the market 1889 “Orient Express” passed through Belgrade, Niš and Caribrod, on its way to Istanbul
1893 Tourist, health and recreation activities were organized in Zlatibor, which is now one of the main tourist centres in Serbia “Verkehrsverein” was established in Lausanne, The Regional Association for the Promotion of Tourism in Western Switzerland, the first institution under the sponsorship of one state, responsible for the strategies and the development of tourism “Voyages Dumulin” is the name of a travel agency, the second one in Belgium, which started its business
1923 “Putnik” was established in Belgrade, the Association for the Transport of Travellers and Tourists, the first travel agency in Serbia. “Orbis”, the first travel agency in Poland was established
1898 “Grands voyages Georges les Bourgois” established, the first travel agency in Paris, a town which was then called “the town of light”, maybe for the tourist propaganda. “Sommariva” started working in Milan, the second travel agency in Italy
1936 Beograd, a tourist guide of Miloš Crnjanski was published, in French language
1900 “American Express Company”, a company for express transportation of merchandise and people, formed in 1850, established its own travel agency
1928 “Carpati” was established, the first tourist agency in Romania 1929 “Intourist” was established, the first travel agency in SSSR
1937 “Balkantourist”, the first travel agency in Bulgaria 1952 Srbija tourist guide was published by “Putnik”, written by Ljubica D. Trajković. The work of Ferijalni savez Jugoslavije was continued, which will later be called Ferijalni i hostelski savez (Student Vacation and Hostel Association)
1901 “Dansk Rajsebureau”, Copenhagen, the first travel agency in Denmark. The Serbian Mountaineer’s Society was established
1953 Establishing of the Tourist Association of Serbia and the Tourist Association of Belgrade
1902 “Ibusz”, Budapest, the first travel agency in Hungary
1954 Establishing of YUTA, the National Association of Travel Agencies
1907 “Viajes Norda”, Madrid, the first travel agency in Spain
1967 The Belgrade University got a school that we now call Tourist School of Vocational Studies
1908 Alfred Kuoni formed the first travel agency in Zurich, Switzerland
1978 The first modern International Fair of Tourism was organized in Belgrade
1910 Office National du Tourisme was established in France, the central tourist institution. The same was made in Italy, as “Pro Loco”
1994 The Tourist Association became the Tourist Organization of Serbia, the national agency for the promotion of tourism
1917 During the horrible World War I, “Österreichsches Verkersbüro”, the first travel agency in Austria was established with the decision of the Ministry of Railways in Vienna. Heinrich Ronn established the travel agency in Innsbruck.
1995 The Tourist Association of Belgrade became the Tourist Organization of Belgrade. Putnik 1923-1993 monograph was published, by the author Vladan Krajčević, an important testimony on the development of tourism in Serbia and abroad
1919 Office National Suisse du Tourisme was established in Switzerland, a national travel organization. The office of the international company “Wagonlits” was open in Belgrade. 1920 Student Vacation Association (Ferijalni savez) was established in the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians. A Book of Regulations of Spas, Mineral and Hot Water was made in Belgrade. “Čedok”, the first travel agency in Czechoslovakia. 1921 The Ministry of Trade and Industry in the Kingdom of Serbia established the Foreigners’ Office in Belgrade
2004 The edition Tourist Informer of Serbia was established by “Princip Press” in which was the first edition of the guide Welcome to Serbia, in Serbian, English and German 2007 Srbija – National Review was established, one of the leading magazines dealing with the reaffirmation of tourism in Serbia 2012 Special Edition
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Album
White swans at the Belgrade ZOO Belgrade white lion Griffon vulture. White egret. White kangaroo. White and red tiger.
Photo: Dragan Bosnić
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Garden of Good Hope The city zoo is more than a tourist attraction of the Serbian capital city. It is an important point of the Belgrade “local mythology”. Other world capital cities have bigger, more expensive and more luxurious ones, but not many can be compared with the Belgrade zoo with their charm and beauty of their location. “It was ceremonially opened on St. Peter’s Day (July 12) 1936. It was founded by the then mayor Vlada Ilić, industrialist. The first inhabitants of the zoo were lions, leopards, polar and brown bears, wolves, macaque and mangabey monkeys, antelopes, buffalos, zebus, musk oxen, deer, bucks, storks, cranes, peacocks, pheasants, owls, pelicans and parrots...” All the animals in the “Garden of Good Hope” are pets of Belgrade. Belgradians, from enthusiastic young people on the “Victor’s” plateau to the passionate pensioners at the Sava promenade, all know when bucks mate, when the bear has cubs and why the old wolf is sad. Belgrade is the only city in the world which erected a monument to a runaway monkey (unforgettable Sami), adopted a war orphan bear (Knindža) and threatened with street protests when politicians tried to move the “Garden of Good Hope” from the Fortress to “somewhere across the river, to the fields at the edge of the city”. All Serbian generations of elementary school students have at least once visited the capital city during their school trip. Their visits begin and end in the “Garden of Good Hope”. This winter, our photo reporter spent some time with the white inhabitants of our zoo. White lion, white tiger, white swan, polar bear, white kangaroo… In the White City, one white winter. There were also others, naturally, opposing the whiteness. They posed for the photos skillfully and comfortably, like true Belgradians. And patiently. We are old friends after all. Enjoy. (B. M.) Специјално издање 2012.
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Album
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Knindža the Bear, an adopted war orphan 2012 Special Edition
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Album
Young white tiger in Belgrade
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Experience PLACES YOU ALWAYS GO BACK TO
To Travel
Means to Rejoice “A true traveler does not make plans, and does have an intention to reach the end of the journey.” This is the teaching of ancient Lao Tzu, permanent guide to our photography editor, great traveler, noble wanderer, old wolf. And he begins his journeys an hour before a new day is born, at the time when his children are coming back home from a night out. This time, he will talk about the reasons why he is always going back to Kamena gora, to Ovčar-Kablar and Đerdap Gorge, to Old Mountain, Zlatibor, to the canyon of Jerma and Pčinja...
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Sunrise on Zlatar
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Experience
S
ince we don’t know when we are going Text and to die, we must look at life as at an inexphotographs: haustible source. Things happen only in Dragan Bosnić incomprehensibly small number of occasions. How many times will you remember an afternoon of your childhood, the afternoon so deeply impressed in you that you can no longer exist without it? Four, maybe five times. Maybe not even that often. How many times will you look at he moon rising? Maybe twenty times. And it seems so infinite. This monologue ends the Bertolucci’s film Sheltering Sky and all my journeys begin with it. My journeys begin at least one hour before the announcement of a new day, when my bored children come from nightlife. The morning light is their dark side of the moon. Announcement of the dawn brings me into a state of total dependence, with much more force than any energy or alcohol drink, mixed with too loud rhythms of electronic music and congested with tobacco smoke that fill a well spent night to our offspring.
Sunrise on the Danube near Vinča... ... and near Golubac
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TRUE TRAVELER AND NUMEROUS DAYBREAKS Morning in Serbia is a scene that you want to repeat an indefinite number of times, once you have experienced it. In late October, on Kamena gora, I woke up at five o’clock in the morning forgetting that he sun would come
Специјално издање 2012.
Trumpeter and Shepherdess I have seen the Ovčar-Kablar Canyon from the top of Kablar at the moment when the sun appeared over Čačak and flames of fog were disappearing in the constriction of the Western Morava. A trumpeter was softly playing next to me – From the mountains of Ovčar and Kablar, the shepherdess speaks... out only two hours later. Long daybreak, fog in the valley of the Lim River and singing of birds created an atmosphere that no manmade artificial device can register. That was my first real contact with Kamena gora, which has turned into an unbreakable attraction. When one morning in June, the area of the Old Mountain called Gornji Visok spread out from Vidlič peak, i decided to extend for an indefinite period my to-day excursion. I was going around the mountain without any plan, and after one week I ended the journey in Rajačke pimnice near Negotin. My guide on this journey was Lao Tzu and his maxim: A true traveler does not make plans, and does have an intention to reach the end of the journey. And all subsequent visits to the Old Mountain were predictably unpredictable. The trajectories of this mountain are contagiously beautiful, people are extremely hospitable, and all the jokes about stingy Pirot people are only jokes. The thought that I would not visit the
2012 ď‚&#x; Special Edition
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Experience
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Morning in TiÄ?ije Polje, in the vicinity of Brodarevo
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Experience
Morning on Homolje
Old Mountain in one year seems to me like a nightmare. my family reacted in disbelief to my decisions not to travel to Cuba, Spain, Italy, Greek islands... because I had some thinks to do on the Old Mountain. The Jerma Canyon is carved between Greben and Vlaška Mountain. Every visit to the Old Mountain would end with the passing through the picturesque canyon, a visit to Poganovski Monastery and the village of Vlasi. Swimming pool in Zvonačka banja is an excellent place for refreshment and Hotel Mir (Peace) below the slopes of Asenovo Kale, fully lives up to its name. I used to visit Radan Mountain and Đavolja varoš at zhe time when many people were avoiding that devil’s business. In time, people from “Planinka” turned Đavolja varoš,
Concert for One Visitor Pčinja sirotinja. One of the most beautiful parts of Serbia has the misfortune of being the poorest. The first visit to Trgovište, namely Vražiji kamen, was out of mere curiosity. It was a beautiful November morning and the rocks and the church standing on them seemed unreal. Even more unreal was a screech of bagpipe that tore the morning mist next to Pčinja. Nikola Stanisavljević Car, from Trgovište, had a solo concert for a solo visitor on the exceptionally acoustic stage of Vražiji kamen. Lukovska and Prolom banja into a true tourist miracle and the most visited destination in that part fo Serbia. Radan Mountain has remained a mysterious place where many roads enter, but do not meet anywhere. When thee roads are connected, Caričin grad (Justiniana Prima) will be much closer to Đavolja varoš, and hot spa centers of the southern Serbia will be much more accessible. GREAT COLLECTION OF VIEWPOINTS Zlatibor stands out among other important tourist destinations. I remember it from my high school days, when the eyes of one Jela were more interesting than Zlatibor pine trees. Meanwhile, Zlatibor has become an urbanized place, but, fortunately, it has kept Murtenica, Čigota, Stublo, Jablanica and the unspoiled Uvac Canyon. Vodice is still the most Zlatibor-like part of Zlatibor. There, Crni Rzav is separating the rainforest of Murtenica from infinite valleys of Čigota, and saddle Previja separates that black land-valley area from karst surfaces covered with deciduous trees. From Zlatibor to the north, from Vijogor peak, the Kamišina Reka descends to Mokra Gora. And there is no dawn like the dawn over Mokra Gora. No to mention the Šargan Rail and claims of the people from Mokra Gora that secen out of eight most beautiful viewpoints are located on Mokra Gora. Beautiful viewpoints are also typical for Tara and Valjevo Mountains. Jadar and Mačva have Cer, Vojvodina has Fruška gora and Vršac Mountains. On Veliki Štrpac there is an unforgettable view of the most beautiful part of the Đerdap Canyon. Practically every mountain in Serbia is surrounded with beauty that needs to be discovered. That is why every journey around Serbia is a new discovery, no matter how many times you have visited that area. Bora Joksimović from Toplice likes to say: Those who did not travel farter than a hen, have not seen more than a hen.
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Нотес / NOTEBOOK
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WHEN LADY WINTER BANGS HER FIST ON THE TABLE
Holidays until Further Notice We are gabby and boring. We gossiped about winter without any measure or taste. We took its goodness as its weakness. And then, at the beginning of this Aztec 2012, it couldn’t stand it any longer. It showed its teeth, and we began whining and breaking down. I don’t know what this has to do with tourism, but I am sure it will flourish. “In these lands”
Winter on Kopaonik, 2012 2012 Special Edition
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NOTEBOOK By: Bane Velimirović
H
aving a long tongue and short memory, we became truly spoiled. We gossiped Lady Winter more than we did the beautiful widow of Miško the Watchmaker, we talked about it more maliciously than about the Serbian football players (led by the “Montenegrin Genius”) after the “unfortunate tie with Azerbaijan”. Hm, the winter is not as it used to be. It’s worn out, modernized, became tolerant, its character has weakened. It has no authority or sharpness, it is mild and unconvincing. We blamed the winter for the unbearable heat in summer. If there were big snows in the winter, there wouldn’t be any drought in summer. If we had more of Siberia in winter, we’d have less of Sahara in summer. Ooooh, when we were young, we had snow up to the roof, the Danube covered with ice was our favorite promenade, we used to bathe in the snowdrifts naked to the waist. During those long winters, covered with snow, we kissed young girls, had a warm body in every village, sledges with furious horses, the snow fell on the blossoms. This and that. SNOW IN THE MIDDLE OF FEBRUARY
Crossing the frozen Danube, near Pančevačko Bridge destroyed in the bombing, winter 1942
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And then, at the beginning of this Aztec 2012, Lady Winter had enough of it. She banged her fist on the table, so strongly that we fell out of our beds. While we were still crawling on the floor looking for our glasses and remote control, the snow came up to the roof. The frost tightened so much that the steel in Kolubara began breaking. Up to minus forty in Pešter, thermometers and memory failed, even the thrash singers silenced. Such a low temperature has never been recorded, not since we have bought
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this notebook. Trains captured in mountains, ships and barges constrained in rivers, highways and airports closed. Diggers in open pit mines stopped their work, everyone turned on heating devices, the electricity industry began shaking. Turn off the light in the pantry, woman, for God’s sake! The media started lamenting, politicians put on their sports jackets and masks of worry and started off to deliver packages of food and encouraging phrases in nearby godforsaken places. Together with cameras (if necessary to mention). Every box of medication was calculated in political points, the most popular currency in the election year “in these lands”. Schools and factories were closed, even cement and steel plants, the pride of the seasonal sale of our tiny economy. They proclaimed holidays until further notice. However, they offered a reliable consolation as well: pictures showing that the situation over the fence, with our neighbors and “ex-brothers”, in the neighboring protectorates, is much worse than ours. Lady Winter watches us, with refined resignation, like the macho guys who always carry “viagra” and “cialis” in their jacket pocket. She called a taxi and left, down the only cleared street. What do you mean where did she go?! To the EU, of course. It is the only place one can go from here, or to h… I don’t know what this has to do with tourism, but I’m sure tourism will flourish. And I know that the summer of this Aztec 2012 won’t be dry. Especially the spring. After all, old Friedrich Nietzsche was no fool, he was only pretending: “Let us look each other in the face! We are Hyperboreans. Beyond the North, beyond the ice, beyond death – our life, our happiness!”
Genius loci
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RAVELLO, CLOSER TO HEAVENS THAN TO THE SEA
Jewel of the Divine Coast
The legend says that Satan, when tempting Christ with the glamour of this world, presented him the dramatically beautiful sights of the Amalfi Coast. This is where Wagner found inspiration for the enchanted gardens of King Klingsor in “Parsifal”, some of the palaces were described in Boccaccio’s “Decameron”, and D. H. Lawrence wrote many chapters of “Lady Chatterley’s Lover”. What else should one have in mind for the first trip to this edge of the Tyrrhenian Sea (afterwards you will know yourself)? By: Dubravka Preradović
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oday, in the era of mass tourism, the frenetic rhythm of everyday life changed the needs of the contemporary human for resting, thus imposing new standards in the considerably broadened tourism offer. Since a pleasant natural surrounding and high quality traffic and accommodation infrastructure are implied, the offer was expanded in line with the potentials of the destination. So, besides usual balnear, mountain or spa tourism, we also have the opportunity to choose cultural, eco, gastronomical or wine tourism… Many will agree that the greatest luxury today are peace and quiet, and there are a few destination which, besides natural surroundings, rich cultural heritage and gastronomical offer, can also fulfill such requests. One such destination is certainly the Amalfi Coast, part of the Tyrrhenian Sea coastline from the western part of the Salerno Bay, from Positano, Amalfi, Atrani, Maiori and Minori to Cetara and Vietri sul Mare (at sea), the coast named divine with a reason. The Amalfi Coast was enlisted in the UNESCO list of world cultural heritage as a unique cultural landscape in 1997, one of the 66 in the world up to now. It is a special category reflecting the long and direct interaction of human and nature in a unique manner. Besides the mentioned coastal settlements, the protected territory also includes Scala, Tramonti and Ravello, located in the immediate hinterland, the territory of the formerly powerful naval Republic of Amalfi, which already in the X century devel-
oped commercial relations with the Byzantine and Arab world. The influences of these cultures, as well as the Norman that became dominant during the Middle Ages, can still be seen today in the preserved architectural monuments as well as in the tradition of the entire Amalfi Coast. Although each of the mentioned places deserves equal attention, we decided to dedicate a few more words to Ravello, both due to its dominant geographic position and unforgettable view of the famous Amalfi lemon terraced plantations which go down almost to the shore, and for its rich cultural heritage concentrated in such a small area.
Tyrrhenian Sea coast near Ravel
IN “THE GARDEN OF THE SOUL” Ravello was formed in the V century on a long and extremely high ridge, which offered a natural sanctuary to the newly arrived inhabitants from the conquests of the barbarian hordes. The rapid demographic growth and establishing of the patrician class of rich merchants made Ravello an important element of the Amalfi Republic already in the IX century.
Photo: Serpil Ujar
Temptation According to an ancient legend, which can be heard today from the local tourist guides, due to the view of the Mediterranean and the dramatic Amalfi Coast, leaving an observer breathless, Satan took Christ to Ravello during his second temptation, to show him the beauty of the earthly kingdom (Luka 4: 5-8).
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Genius loci
In the gardens of fairies “Čimbrone” and “Rufolo” Atrani
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In the XI century, it became the seat of the episcope, in the Cathedral of St. Panteleimon, the church ornamenting the main city square today. The stairway leads to the central portal of the three-nave edifice, the monumental relief bronze gate dated 1179. The interior of the church includes characteristic church furnishings, made in marble and ornamented with a mosaic of glass paste and ceramics fragments, while especially remarkable for their refined workmanship are the pulpit and the ambo from the XIII century. If you happen to be in Ravello on the day of the cathedral saint day, on July 27, you will witness an exclusive wonder. On that day, the blood of St. Panteleimon, kept in a glass ampoule in the cathedral treasury, becomes transparent. Rich merchant families financed the construction of churches and palaces. The Rufolo family villa, built around 1280 and described in Boccaccio’s Decameron, has been preserved to the very day. At the time of its greatest glory, it had more rooms than days in a year. Still, more glorious than its Mavarian style towers and inside yards is its garden, also called “the garden of the soul”. The garden today covers only two levels, while in the past it was similar to the hanging gardens of the Arab world, with special
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water transfer systems. The “Rufolo” villa garden left Richard Wagner breathless; this is where he found inspiration for the enchanted gardens of King Klingsor in his Parsifal opera. The memory of Wagner is still alive in Ravello. The prestigious “Ravello Music Festival”, also known as “Wagner’s Festival” has been held in the “Rufolo” villa garden since 1953. Since recently, some concerts are held in the Auditorium, designed by Oscar Niemeyer, famous Brazilian architect, adding Ravello to the map of the most significant achievements of contemporary architecture. A VIEW FROM “THE BALCONY OF INFINITY” The visit to Ravello cannot be complete without visiting the “Cimbrone” villa. It was built in the early XX century by an English banker William Becket, later Baron Gripthorp, on the foundations of a XI century edifice, imitating classic and medieval models. He decorated the spacious gardens of the villa with numerous statues and busts. The interesting part is the belvedere, “the balcony of infinity”, located on the very edge of a high cliff.
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Genius loci
Villa “Čimbrone”: Belvedere
While the villa was in the possession of the Becket family, many famous people spent their vacations here, such as Virginia Wolf, D. H. Lawrence (who wrote many chapters of Lady Chatterley’s Lover here), T. S. Eliot, Winston Churchill, as well as the Duke and Duchess of Kent. In the late 1930s, a frequent guest of the villa “Cimbrone” was the capricious film diva Greta Garbo. Now the villa is turned into a hotel with an own heliport, guaranteeing its guests complete privacy. Ravello is imbued with the fragrance of lemons, which numerous trees are cultivated in a terraced terrain, the main feature of the landscape along the entire coast. The lemon cultivated along the Amalfi Coast, the so-called Sfusato Amalfitano, is
St. John del Toro Besides the cathedral, one should also visit the Church of St. John del Toro from the same period. Many consider the pulpit of this church more beautiful than the one in the cathedral. Contributing to this opinion is the fact that its interlocking motifs were an inspiration to the famous Dutch graphic artist M. K. Escher, who spent time in Ravello during the 1920s.
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marked as IGP (indicazione geografica protetta), guaranteeing its protected origin and controlled quality. The fruit with a mesocarp is light yellow and less sour than common lemon. That is why this lemon is suitable not only for famous deserts such as delicia al limone, but also for different versions of paste al limone such as spaghetti al amalfitana which are the region’s specialty, as well as for marinated anchovies, the common starter on the local menu. Naturally, the pleasure would not be complete without ending the meal with a homemade limoncello. The story of Ravello does not end here. It only begins. Many couples from all over the world decide to begin their life together in this place, so, especially during the tourist season, wedding bells are often heard from the cathedral tower. Furthermore, numerous artists, motivated by the beauty of the natural surroundings, visit this part of the world throughout the year looking for inspiration for writing, painting or composing, because, as the French writer Andre Gide said, “Ravello is closer to heavens than to the coast”.
Трад иц иј а / TRADITION
IN ROME, AT THE ENTHRONING OF THE FIRST LADY OF ARLES
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Tradition The picturesque event was established in 1930, for the hundredth anniversary of the birth of Frederic Mistral, remarkable writer and lexicographer from Provence. The lady chosen for the Queen of Arles is the official representative of the language, customs and tradition of Provence in the following three years, ambassador of the Provencal culture. One of the criteria is high knowledge of history, literature, architecture, art, tradition and language of Provence
Text: NR Press
The new queen of Provence through Roman Arena and a welcome ceremony Gathering of the citizens of Arles at the ceremony in Rome
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traveler who happens to be in Arles in the first week of July might think he had entered a time machine and that the characters from Van Gogh’s and Gauguin’s paintings have come down from the canvases to the streets and squares of this Provencal city. Ladies of Arles in luxurious long dresses, with Provencal lace scarves, characteristic buns on their heads, a fan in one and sunshade in the other hand, accompanied by gentlemen wearing colorful vests and hats, came out together from their homes to honor the tradition and culture of their city. Last year, in 2011, the enthroning of the twenty-first Queen of Arles ceremony was held in the Arena in Rome, in the presence of many Arlesians. It is a specific event established in 1930. For the occasion of celebrating the hundredth anniversary of the birth of Frederic Mistral (1830-1914), respectable writer and lexicographer, the Queen of Arles was elected for the first time. Frederic Mistral dedicated his life to studying and preserving Provencal language and tradition, and was awarded with the Nobel Prize for his poetry written in Provencal language. The lady elected Queen of Arles is the official representative of the language, customs
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and tradition of Provence in the following three years. During her three-year mandate, the queen and her maids of honor have an active role in most of the events taking place in Provence. At the same time, they are ambassadors of Provencal culture in France and abroad. FRATERNITY OF ST. GEORGE The criteria for electing the queen and maids of honor is a unique test implying a high level of knowledge of history, literature, architecture, art, tradition and language of Provence. The result of the election is announced by the mayor of Arles from the city hall balcony, on May 1, in Provencal language. This date is important in the history of Arles since the Fraternity of St. George was established on May 1, 1512. It is a fraternity of Camargue horses and bull herdsmen, the oldest herdsmen fraternity today, which celebrates its holiday every year on this day with a grand parade through Arles and a spectacle including traditional Camargue games with horses and bulls. The enthroning of the elected queen takes place, as we mentioned, on the Traditional Costume Day. After the parade, which
Photos: Dubravka Preradović
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Tradition Amazing Riding Skills The herdsmen step on the scene riding semi-wild Camargue horses. It is a small rustic light gray horse, living in the swamps around the Rhone delta in the Camargue area. This breed of horses is considered one of the oldest in the world. The amazing riding skills are shown by experienced herdsmen as well as by boys and girls, some of them especially skilled in bareback riding. begins in the morning, Arlesians come to the Arena, the place where the new queen will be enthroned. The beginning of the ceremony includes honoring the previous queen and maids of honor, whose function ceases with this act. The newly elected queen then enters the Arena, riding on a traditional Camargue horse, followed by herdsmen, members of the Fraternity of St. George, and maids of honor, also riding horses. After the ceremony ends and the newly elected queen and her maids of honor take their seats of honor, the games may begin. UNDER A GOLDEN COCKADE Young Queen was selected, Roma is slowly sinking into its ancient dream
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The ceremony is followed by riding skills on Camargue horses and the so-called Camargue games. Besides the local breed of horses, a specific breed of bulls is also culti-
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vated in Camargue. This small black animal participates in games similar to the Spanish corrida, although with one fundamental difference. The bull is not killed in the Camargue games. Instead of the toreador, the so-called rasater is in the arena with the bull, dressed in white. The objective of the entire spectacle is not to kill the bull, but to, while running, take off three marks from the head and horns of the bull using a special hook: a red cockade from the bull’s forehead, a tassel made of white wool in the root of the bull’s horn, and a bow wrapped around its horns. The Arles rasater school is one of the most prestigious in France, and the Camargue games are held throughout the season in the Arles Arena, the most prestigious of them being the “Golden Cockade”. At the end of this part of the ceremony, the students of the Arles school who showed their skills bow to the newly enthroned queen, and then experienced rasaters step into the arena. The celebration and the spectacle last until dusk, when the streets of the city are again filled with Arlesians proud of their culture and tradition. The ladies in rustling dresses and their gentlemen withdraw to their chambers and lay aside their costumes until next year.
Pilgrimages RELIGIOUS TOURISM: THE METEORA, ONE OF THE MOST ATTRACTIVE DESTINATIONS OF RELIGIOUS TOURISM IN GREECE
The Monastic City on Rocks
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An ascetic life began here in 985, with the arrival of monk Barnabas. After establishing Dupjana, the first monastery, and Protat church, the establishment of monastic fraternities began in the 11th century. The renaissance of the Meteora, in the 14th century, is linked with the arrival of a Holy Mountain monk Athanasius, the founder of the Great Meteora and the creator of the first Meteora Typicon, but also with despot Simeon (the son of Serbian king Stefan Dečanski), and his successor Jovan Uroš, with monastic name of Joasaf, whose support was immeasurable By: Mišo Vujović
Great Meteoron Monastery, 14th century
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pproaching the tourist town of Kalambaka, you are greeted by a fascinating scene of “unearthly” rocks with monumental monastery buildings standing on their peaks, like mushrooms. In the narrow streets of Kalambaka it is difficult top find a parking place, and it is almost impossible not to bump into tourists and pilgrims from various parts of Serbia. A large number of taverns, restaurants, pizzerias, buffets offer, at reasonable price, various Rusana specialties of Greek and international cuisine, Monastery, and in the vicinity of Kalambaka there are 13th century several large parking areas and excellently In the net over the equipped auto camps. A winding road through a picturesque vilabyss: Ascending to the monastery in the lage of Kastraki, nestled between huge pedestals, made by the hands of the creator, leads old-fashioned way
to an elevation from which there is a beautiful view of Kalambaka and fertile Thessaly plains. In nearby elevations and rocks, groups of tourists are taking positions for sightseeing and taking photographs, a mixture of different languages and dialects can be heard. Jolly murmur of thrilled tourists and pilgrims is mixed with monastic chanting coming from the nearby cliff, and one of the monastery buildings. “A unique view of the rocks surrounded by a green carpet, creates a sense of admiration mixed with awe, but at the same time joy and excitement, because it is exactly from the peaks of these mountains that one feels all of their weakness toward the work of the creator. At the same moment, the sense of greatness and beauty is born. And this beauty is expressed through moderation. Its content and form are in full harmony.(...) The feeling of greatness is born from looking at these high rocks, on the peaks of which you are standing, and it seems as if you are somewhere between the earth and the sky. Spotting the green valley, you will encounter the ideal balance, and you are imbued with Olympic peace while watching this masterpiece of nature...”, wrote Teoharis Provatakis, chronicler and a devotee of this masterpiece of nature and human entrepreneurship. After the development of tourism as the leading industry of Greece, the new era of the Meteora has commenced, this unique monastic town between heaven and earth. Today certainly one of the most attractive destinations of the ancient Ellada. FOLLOWING THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE HOLY NEMANJIĆ DYNASTY Modeled after the Holy Mountain monkhood, the monastery complex of Meteora was established in the early 11th century. Historians write that the beginning of monastic life here dates back to 985 and the coming of monk Barnabas. It was at that time that the first monastic cells were made in the caves of inaccessible rocks. With the first monastery Dupjani and Protat Church were built in the 11th century, the establishment of monastic fraternity began. More intense ascetic life on the Meteora begins in the 14th century, when monk Athanasius from the Holy Mountain built the Great Meteora on one of the highest rocks, 623 meters high. He named it Meteoro, and dedicated it to the Transfiguration of Christ. Modeled after the Holy Mountain ascetics, the founder of the Great Meteora issued the first Typicon (monastic rule), which still regulates the monastic life on the Meteora today. The first fraternity was comprised of 14 monks, and the monastery had great privileges of despot Simeon, the ruler of Aetolia, half-brother of Serbian king Stefan Dušan. After Dušan’s death, Simeon unites Thessaly and Epirus, proclaiming him-
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Pilgrimages self first the king, and then the emperor. He will be remembered as the great founder and benefactor of the entire monastic community on the Meteora. His successor, a Holy Mountain student, John Ouresis Doukas Palaiologos, enchanted by the ethical and ascetic image of monk Athanasius, continues to support Athanasius and his fraternity, which strengthens the influence of the community and is regarded as the golden era of the Meteora. Following ascetic examples of the holy Nemanjić dynasty, led by desire for eternal wisdom, John Ouresis Doukas Palaiologos renounces earthly riches and his earthly treasures and exchanges the power for monastic cope, becoming the humble monk Joasaf, after the death of his monastic brother and friend Athanasius, and the abbot of the Great Meteora. MATERIAL COLLECTED FOR 70 YEARS The entire complex is dominated by the three-nave Church of the Transfiguration of Christ, with inscribed cross, three domes and lateral apses. The temple is situated in the central part, 2 meters long and 24 meters high, consists of the external narthex, narthex of the main temple, and is considered one of the most beautiful buildings of the third period of Byzantine architecture. The building of the church was commenced by the holy Athanasius, and was completed by holy Joasaf. Around 1552, the temple was decorated with frescos, during the time of abbot Simeon, while the dominant element of the interior are the imperial doors with gold plated wooden iconostasis that resembles the monasteries of the Holy Mountain Athos. The following inscription is engraved in the eastern part of the temple: “This sacred temple of God and our Lord Jesus Christ was built thanks to the effort and support from our holy fathers Athanasius and Joasaf in 1388.”
World Free from the Weight of Time “On these peaceful heights, one can see a true forest mad of huge rocks, on tops of which there are monasteries that are in a mystic harmony with their surroundings. Monks are always glad to receive visitors in guest rooms, offering everything that Abraham and Greek hospitality require. Up there, solitude and quiet are the rule. Wherever you look, you can feel a unique peace and calm, just like what happens with star sprinkled autumn sky that is flooded with silent excitement. Exactly on these infertile and inhospitable rocks that have became palaces for thousands of hermits, Christian monks have learned to be wise in thoughts and modest in their beliefs. Among them there is another world freed from the weight of data and time, from where every monk can draw strength to oppose the elements of nature and sing a hymn to the creation of the world from chaos, a hymn to the world, which he himself is often at danger of losing.” (Teoharis Provatakis)
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Rusanu To the southeast of the Great Meteora, there is Rusanu Monastery, built on the top of the vertical rock some time in the 13th century, and restored in the late 14th century. The main monastery church, dedicated to the Transfiguration of Christ, was also built in the Byzantine style, with a dome and three apses, decorated with frescos and gold plated wooden iconostasis. The second, in terms of size and significance, behind the Great Meteora is the Monastery of All Saints – Varlaam, situated on a 373 meters high rock, built around 1350, through diligence of monk Varlaama and his fraternity that had a small number of people. Historians write that Varlaam climbed on the ladder that rested on wooden supports using holes between rocks. His example was followed by other hermits, and in this way monasteries on the Meteora were built. The ladders were later replaced with nets, so that the climbing, filled with fear and anxiety, took about half an hour. Relying on prayers, risking to disappear in the abyss every moment, the monks were using nets and ladders for centuries to climb into their praying nests, and in 1923 they carved stairs in the rock which today lead the visitors to the monastery at the top of the rock. The main monastery church was built after the Holy Mountain models, and consists of a narthex, naos and St. Beme. The monasterys complex was built in only 20 days, while the collection of material and its storing lasted for as long as 22 years. This monastery church is also decorated with frescos, and the iconostasis is made of gold plated wood. The space is dominated by the monastery of the Holy Trinity from the 14th century, with a temple built in the mid 15th century. It is believed today that the material used for the construction of the monastery had been collected for 70 years. Within this complex there are two temples, the main one dedicated to the Holy Trinity and a small church of Jovan Podrom. On the road from Trikala toward Kalambaka, on one of the rocks on the right hand side there is St, Stephen Monastery built in the 14th century, and the monastery of St. Nicholas Anapausas was built in the 15th century. On the Meteora today there are several abandoned and uninhabited monasteries, such as monastery of Agios Georgios Mandelas Monastery, Monastery of St Nicholas Anapausas, Monastery of the Holy Spirit, Monastery of the Transfiguration of Christ... Most of these abandoned buildings were made in the same period, i.e. 14th, 15th and 16th century.
Lev Nikolayevich Tolstoy (1828-1881)
Reminder
SERBIA IN THE EYE OF TRAVELOGUE WRITERS AND NOTEBOOKS OF GREAT PEOPLE
In the Mirror of Time Throughout many centuries, numerous warriors and statesmen, diplomats and merchants, explorers and spies, adventurers and scribes have passed here. Many of them left behind remarkable travelogues or included the pages written here into their later famous works. Great people who wrote, spoke or composed about Serbia included Ludovico Ariosto, Steven Storas, Andersen, Jacob Grimm, Mazzini, Goethe, Merimee, Pushkin, Lamartine, Alphonse Mucha, Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Dostoyevsky, Hugo, Nietzsche, Andreyev, Lessing, Clemenceau, Stanesku… We have dedicated a whole issue to this subject in the “Meet Serbia” edition, and now give you just a short reminder
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any times in its history, whether luckily or unluckily, Serbia was Branislav Matić the center of European and international attention. Perhaps too many times, compared to its present size, economical power, population. The greatest ones wrote, sang, spoke about it, appealed for its apology. However, it is understood that around every light shadows swarm.
By:
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The first chronicles and travel accounts about Serbia in the late Middle Ages were written by writers who went to the so-called crusades with warriors. From their records, we know that not all of them came in peace. That is why for some, this was the last stop of their journey. When messengers announced that the Turkish sultan Murat I was killed in the Battle of Kosovo in 1389, the French
king Charles VI ordered “the Paris Christian temples to victoriously ring their bells and a ceremonial service to be held in the Notre Dam”. This beautiful story was written by many, from abbot Saint-Denis in the XIV century, to French writer Milena Noković at the end of the XX century. Decades later, while the Turks advanced towards the center of Europe, the highest European instances almost officially declared Belgrade as the “front wall of Christianity” (“ante murales christianitatis”) and the “the bastion of Christianity”. The famous poet Ludovico Ariosto dedicated one chapter of his renowned poem Furious Orlando to the heroic defense of Belgrade. (More than two centuries later, the Italian composer Steven Storas relived a similar subject in the opera Seize of Belgrade, first performed at the London Royal Drury Lane Theater, then in New York and Dublin.) After the final fall of Serbia into Turkish slavery, when the Serbian nation stepped into its three and a half century long “frozen time”, different travelers visited these lands. Diplomats, merchants, explorers, spies, adventurers, servants. “They all had very unclear, often completely wrong concepts about the delimitation of ethnic groups in the Balkans and hardly knew the borders and names of geographical and administrative regions”, wrote Zdenko Levental, who collected and processed British travel accounts through “our lands” from mid-XV to early XIX century. John Lock and Edmond Spencer were also among the travelers who passed through enslaved Serbian lands or along their borders! Unfortunately, these two great spirits did not have time or a chance to leave any accounts about Serbia. What did others note?
Hospitality The English lady Vivian Herbert, in her book Serbia, Paradise of the Poor, in the late XIX century (1897), affectedly writes: “When you visit anyone in Serbia, first they bring a tray with one or two dishes of fruits in jelly, one dish for spoons divided into two parts (one full and the other empty), and a certain number of glasses of water. The tray is usually brought by a charming daughter from the house, or the lady of the house, which represents a special honor. Everyone in Serbia has a soul full of hospitality. A traveler in any part in the inland is heartily welcomed and richly hosted…”
Jacob Grimm (1785-1863) and Leopold Ranke (1795-1886) 2012 Special Edition
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Reminder PRIDE OF THE SLAVIC TRIBE Whatever may be, from that period of darkness, a curious reader has at its disposal the travel accounts of William Way, Richard Gilford, Henry Ostel, Henry Cavendish and Fox, Fines Morrison, Sir Thomas Glover, William Litge, George Sanders, Peter Mundy, Henry Blunt, John Burberry, Walter Pope, Edward Brown, Paul Rico, George Weiler, Francis Vernon, Sir William Hasey, Simon Clement, Richard Pockock, Richard Bright, George Thomas Cappel… From the slavery, from the “frozen times”, Serbia reenters history and geography at the beginning of the XIX century. Europe of the romanticism époque and Serbia at the beginning of its great liberation efforts meet and reveal each other with great enthusiasm. Publishing Serbian folk poems translated into Western European languages provoked a real shock and excitement in European intellectual circles. Jernej Kopitar, Jacob Grimm, Mazzini, Goethe, Walter Scott, Prosper Mérimée, Pushkin, Mickevich, Tomaseo and “so many others” considered Serbian epic poetry – collected, edited and published by Vuk Karadžić – a first class revelation. Lamartine then published his poems about Serbia. Mary E. Daram, member of two royal institutes in London, a woman who wrote and published seven books and a series of articles in leading English newspapers and magazines during a quarter of a century, at that time published her significant book Through Serbian Lands, revealing numerous descriptions and observations about the country, people, surroundings, enemies. Hans Christian Andersen sailed and traveled through several Serbian lands and towns. He published his writings in the book The Poet’s Bazaar, first published much later, in 1842. (More about it in: “Andersen in Serbia”, National Review, no. 3). At the beginning of the same decade, in 1841, finishing his series of lectures about Serbian folk poetry at the French college in Lausanne (Friday, March 19, 1841), the greatest Polish poet Adam Mickevich said: “It is time to part with the history of Serbian literature… That nation will keep on living closed in its past, determined to be the musician and poet of the whole Slavic tribe, not even anticipating that it will one day become the greatest literary pride of the Slavs.” INVENTING RURITANIA Alphonse de Lamartine (1790-1869) and Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875)
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The extraordinary German literature historian, ethnologist and characterologist
Gerhard Gesemann, during his journeys and explorations through the Serbian lands, penetrated deeper into the layers of Serbian for ma mentis, the Serbian homo heroic us: “Only there, in Old Serbia, the historical traditions could have remained fresh and given birth to the national tendencies pervading life and literature of the Dinara people, fulfilled only in our age. Often along with these features, there is the faithfulness to the idea of righteousness, the idea of national and personal freedom and honor, or socialist and political principles. Thus the dangerous unconditionalness of its great politicians and ingenious demagogues, rebels, hayduks, folk heroes and uskoks…” Traveling through the Slavic Balkans, Alphonse Mucha, the great master of Czech art nouveau and poet of the Slavic Epopee, wrote to his wife: “The music and songs are so deeply Byzantine and Slavic. As if I’m living in the IX century… For the last two thousand years, nothing essential changed!” The famous Romanian poet Nikita Stanesku writes the following: “Air in Serbia is not for breathing, the air here is for singing.” The travel writers in our lands at those times were most often Russians, Brits and Germans. The heritage of travel accounts is enormous. Among the most important authors are Alexander F. Gilferding, Pavel A. Rovinsky, Archibald Payton, Charles Lem, Adelina Polina Irby, Georgina Mure Mackenzie, Felix Kanitz, Gustav Rash… Unfortunately, along with this abundance, the line of superficial, light and completely ignorant writing from the previous époque
continued. If we do not question good intentions, many ugly stereotypes, alive even today, sprouted on the grounds of the superficialness, lightness and ignorance, excellently revealed by Vesna Golsvorti in her study Inventing Ruritania (Yale University Press, 1998). However, at the time it was still benign and ridiculous, because it was not a managing instrument in the hands of spin doctors employed in centers of political power. Those were different times. For all that time, the turbulent process of Serbian complete liberation continued, a process one hundred fourteen years long (1804– 1918). Diplomatic, political, dynastical, intelligence battles, battles on war fronts. “In the history of this country, there is almost not one single regular page: only battles, wars… The history of Serbia is the history of its martyrness”, wrote Pavel Apolonovich Rovinsky in the European Herald in 1876. “Free Serbia from its difficult obligation to always be on guard, on the watchguard to protect its borders, and only then you will
Marches in honor of the Serbs: Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky (1840-1893) and Friedrich Nietzsche (1844-1900)
Victor Hugo (1802-1885)
One Witness: the Whole World Victor Hugo 1876 wrote the famous sentences about the sufferings of Serbia: “They are killing a nation. Where? In Europe. Is there anyone to testify about it? There is one witness: The whole world.”
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Reminder
Alexander Sergeyevich Pushkin (1799-1837)
see what that country can offer you and what the Serbian people will show.”
Rebecca West (1892-1983)
Many people know that the famous Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky composed the fascinating Serbian-Russian March in the 1880s, adding it to the weapons of the Slavs in the SerbianTurkish war that took place then. The Russian officer Raevsky wqs a volunteer in this war and he later served Tolstoy as the prototype for the character of Vronsky in Ana Karenina (the church erected as a memory of his heroic death, with an alley brought from suburban Moscow, can be seen today in the village of Gornji Adrovac near Aleksinac, not far from the busy Corridor 10). The famous Dutch lady Jeanne Mercus also came to Serbia as a volunteer. She was wonderfully described by the historian Rene Gremmo. It is also known that Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoevsky was also engaged in writing about the all-Slavic solidarity and “support for small heroic Serbia”. However, it is not widely known that, at that time, even Friedrich Nietzsche, celebrating the Serbian warriors for freedom, composed the Serbian March! Serbia was later also in the absolute center of attention and on cover pages of the
Leonid Nikolayevich Andreyev (1871-1919)
NIETZSCHE’S SERBIAN MARCH
Return At the peace conference in Versailles in 1919, when World War I officially ended, George Clemenceau said: “At the conclusion of our Peace Conference, I must – before I come down from this podium – state my great sorrow because a great historical name: SERBIA is disappearing from the international political scene.” Serbia then became the piedmont of Yugoslavia and remained such, in different forms, until 2006, when it again carried its own name.
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press: at the time of the assassination in 1903, at the time of the crisis which broke out after the Austrian-Hungarian annexing of Bosnia and Herzegovina in 1908, at the time of the Balkan Wars, and especially during World War I. The dramatic destiny of Serbia in that war, “the Golgotha and resurrection of Serbia”, affected many, big and small, all over the world. Among the immortal pages dedicated to Serbia then, are certainly the ones written by the great Russian writer Leonid Andreyev. Robert Lessing, the US minister of foreign affairs at the time, wrote: “When the history of this war is written, the most celebrated chapter of it will carry the name ‘Serbia’”. Later, during the XX century, a lot was written about Serbia. Many filmed travel accounts were also made. Many names, titles, references. Let us, however, end this brief review with fragments of the perhaps best travel account of the XX century, written about this country. Rebecca West (Black Lamb and Gray Falcon): “Nothing in my life had such an influence on me as that journey through Yugoslavia. It seemed like following a thread of wool which would take me out of the labyrinth I didn’t know I was built into.” “There are lands which hide their secrets from travelers for days and don’t show him anything except their exterior… Then, suddenly, they throw him the key and tell him to go wherever he wants and see whatever he can see. This country is like that.” The epilogue of this unforgettable book was written in London in the spring of 1941. Watching bombs falling on her burning city, she wrote: “While I was thinking about the possible invasion, or whenever a bomb would fall nearby, I often prayed: Lord, let me be strong the Serbian way!”
Страт ег иј а / STRATEGY
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DEJAN VESELINOV, TOURIST ORGANIZATION OF BELGRADE DIRECTOR, FOR “NATIONAL REVIEW”
The Capital City Is the Pillar of Serbian Tourism According to all indicators, Belgrade is the absolutely major tourist destination in Serbia. Even during the crisis year of 2011, it had a significant growth. Belgrade is the place from which many guests are directed throughout Serbia. The TOB continues participating in the fast and well led urban regeneration of Belgrade, in order to make it a globally known tourist destination By: G oran Budimir
A
ccording to the City of Belgrade Institute of Informatics and Statistics data, the number of foreign guests who visited the Serbian capital city last year increased by 11 percent, with 8 percent more overnight stays. We also had a record number of guests who arrived by passenger ships, so-called cruisers, to the International Passenger Dock “Port of Belgrade”: 58.000 – says Dejan Veselinov, director of TOB, in the interview for the special edition of National Review. – Our expectations that the number of guests would increase were therefore justified, resulting from the “City Break” campaign we made last year in cooperation with JAT, “Nikola Tesla” Airport, hotels and travel agencies. We prepared a package for a weekend in Belgrade starting from 198 Euros and became very competitive against other destinations in our neighborhood and further. We are satisfied with the achieved results, but also aware that Belgrade can do more and better.
Besides the usual competitive advantages a true metropolis has in such a region, what are the unique advantages Belgrade which can attract tourists? When we invite tourists to Belgrade, we often say that they will very soon feel the openness and friendliness of Belgradians. Belgrade is however also special because it is situated on two internationally important rivers, at the confluence of the Sava and the Danube. The city area has about 200 kilometers of riverbanks! Belgrade has one of the biggest Orthodox Christian temples in
Europe, Church of St. Sava. Only four kilometers from the city center are Ada Ciganlija and the Sava Lake, enlisted by the respectable website “International Business Time” as one of the 10 most beautiful city lakes in the world. The city has over 60 kilometers of bicycle tracks and walking paths. Guests of Belgrade have the opportunity to enjoy excellent food and beverage, and many nice things have already been said about nights out in our city. The specialized publisher of the “Lonely Planet” guide, for example, introduced Belgrade as one of the top ten world destinations for nightlife. Our tourist attractions also include the Belgrade Fortress, Skadarlija, Avala, Zemun, Republic Square, Knez Mihailova Street, Bridge on the Ada, numerous museums, galleries and theaters. The sightseeing tours by open top bus, tram, balloon or ship, accompanied with the stories of guides and curators, present the history, culture and tradition of our city in the best possible way.
Proud of the style and charm of Belgrade people: Dejan Veselinov, Director of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade
Fascinations with Belgrade – Personally, I am fascinated with the location of Belgrade. Not many cities have something similar. Life on the rivers, especially in summer, is a true way of enjoying and spending free time. I live in Blok 45 and often walk down the Sava promenade, which is well arranged and predestined for recreation. There are many riverboats along the bank, mostly local, with a special charm. The people who spend time on the river are relaxed and friendly, willing to tell legends and anecdotes that reflect the true spirit of the city.
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Strategy
Skadarlija, bohemian and artistic quarter of Belgrade “Beograđanka”, one of the highest buildings in Serbian capital, where the seat of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade is located
Belgrade is also famous for its many attractive events. World music stars often perform in our city. Belgrade is different from other destinations because of its cultural identity – the charming lifestyle and friendliness, which regularly leave a special impression on its guests. TOURISM PRODUCT OF BELGRADE What are the key postulates of the tourism strategy of Belgrade today and do you think they have passed the “new millennium test”? The tourism product of Belgrade is based on the principles of sustainable development, the positive influence on the Belgra-
Don’t Be Nervous What do you find terribly annoying in Belgrade and Belgradians? There is nothing I find “terribly annoying”. This is the city I was born in, I live in, work in and accept it the way it is. Naturally, I would be happier if all of us paid more attention to the cleanness of the city, especially on the rivers, and if sirens would be less used in traffic.
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dians’ quality of life, as well as preserving its attractiveness for foreign tourists. Connecting all services, products and activities which are directly or indirectly related to tourism, and their integration into the tourism product development process. The postulates of the Tourist Organization of Belgrade imply participating in a fast and well led urban regeneration of the city, in order to make Belgrade a globally known tourist destination, a cosmopolitan leader among South-Eastern European cities, a city which offers high quality urban experiences to its guests and good business opportunities to investors, a city which is an important nautical point with a completely utilized river tourism potential, a city with a cultural and historical heritage, a city of congresses and fairs. Furthermore, we see Belgrade as a city of sports and cultural events, green zones and eco-tourism, a safe city in a stable political and economic environment, a city with resolved infrastructural problems, regulated tourism infrastructure (parking lots for tourist buses, availability for people with disabilities, well regulated signaliza-
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Strategy tion on the whole territory of the city, clean and tidy, with priorities in environmental protection). Presentations at specialized international tourism fairs abroad are a direct promotion of Belgrade in the market, to foreign tour operators and specialized travel agencies which organize trips, as well as to individual tourists. In accordance with our strategy, we present ready-made packages for short city breaks in Belgrade, cultural and sports events, as well as the possibility of congress tourism. Belgrade has the biggest concentration of foreign guests. Is there a planned or synchronized attempt to direct the guests towards other quality destinations in Serbia? Naturally, we are aware of the fact that most guests stay in Belgrade and we wish to offer them information about other tourist destinations in Serbia as well. We do this by distributing advertising material in our information centers, presenting information and links on the TOB website, organizing press conferences in our information tourist center. The presentation of Belgrade at international professional fairs is most often part of the presentation of the National Tourism Organization of Serbia, that is, part of the presentation of our country. Furthermore, at tourism fairs we always suggest tour operators destinations in the vicinity of Belgrade excellent for day and half-day trips. The success of the development of tourism in Serbia depends on Belgrade, which is the biggest generation market for local tourists. More and more people visit tourism centers in our country. KEY IN COMPETITIVENESS The tourist offer of Belgrade is regularly presented in big European centers (in January, for example, in Vienna, Bratislava…). How do the “old Europeans”, in cities with long tradition and great culture, react to Belgrade and the possibilities it (doesn’t) offers?
Pride – I am proud of the charm and lifestyle of Belgradians, who have the ability to confront problems in a charming way, and celebrate and share with others everything good happening to them. I am especially proud of the way we celebrate the victories of our sportsmen and the way we greet them in the city. They deserve it, because they are excellent ambassadors of our country in the world. They have a great contribution in creating a good image of our country and our city.
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Realistically, everyone is expressing interest in coming and need additional information on what Belgrade can offer them. For example, at the presentation held a few days ago in Vienna, we emphasized the strong connection between Vienna and Belgrade, accentuating monuments and edifices such as the Gate of Karl VI, the great well at the Belgrade Fortress (Roman Well), gunpowder warehouse and other existing edifices in Belgrade built during the Austrian dominion of the city. Frankly, without marketing clichés, what do foreigners mostly criticize when speaking about Belgrade and Belgradians? They mostly criticize when they feel double-crossed, this goes for individual cases – for example, high taxi bills. They disapprove of smoking in public places, traffic jams and noise… Polite behavior, refraining from provoking incidents and making noise is what each individual should strive for, because it definitely contributes to a better life of all of us in the city, as well as to further development of tourism, more guests, and thus higher revenues. What about praises? Further to the poll we made, guests praise the kindness of Belgradians, the good atmosphere in the city, rich history, green areas and parks, rivers, a wide selection of services, traditional food and beverage, numerous sights and cultural and entertainment events. Experts warn that this year will economically and financially be extremely difficult in planetary proportions. In tourism, as a very vulnerable branch, these warnings sound even more dramatic. How is TOB preparing for confronting the expected problems and downfalls? We are used to working in times of crisis. Our further activities are oriented towards an even more aggressive promotion of Belgrade and its offer. Luckily, global trends in tourism are oriented towards visiting cities (short, several-day vacations) and Belgrade has the potential to respond to the demand. One of the main activities, as it was up to now, will be oriented towards the coordination of companies that have the most important place in creating the product and pricing policy, which is the crucial factor in times of crisis. We simply must be competitive against other cities in the region and Europe.
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Welcome
CAPITAL OF SERBIA, ONE OF THE MOST ATTRACTIVE EUROPEAN CITY BREAK DESTINATIONS
The Magic of the Belgrade View of the World
The entire heritage and spirit of Belgrade, all its sights and charm, are woven into its tourist offer. There are streets, squares, monuments, parks, fountains, archeological sites, places one must definitely see or feel. And when you do it, when you understand its naturalness, relaxedness, its smile, you will understand the very special bond you have with Belgrade
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B
elgrade carries many epithets with self-confidence: city of culture, imaginative and inspiring, city of sports and leisure, city of high quality events and festivals, city of good entertainment and nights out, a perfect city break destination… A city rapidly changing and developing, yet preserving its rich historical past imbued with the Eastern and Western cultures. Belgrade is an exceptional city, a never ending story, bursting of traces of an extraordinarily long, rich and turbulent history. Its unique soul originates from the richness of differences and spirituality. Besides Athens, it is one of the oldest cities in Europe. The culture of Vinča, discovered in the area of Belgrade, is also one of the oldest known on our continent. As a consequence of the geographic, historical and social encounter of the East and the West, Belgrade has a truly authentic atmosphere and recognizable hospitality. Wherever the guests of Belgrade stay, they feel at home, comfortable, relaxed and in good spirits. Staying in Belgrade is simply enjoyable. Thus guests of Belgrade usually say “they will certainly come again”. Similar to other European cities, Belgrade has its old and its new face, its monuments of the past and its joy of youth. However, cities, like people, differ in their soul and appearance, the authentic charm and sincerity that make them special. The beauty of Belgrade is in the smile, humor, goodness, genuineness, a friendly hand.
Starting Point of Belgrade The Belgrade time machine first takes us to the very heart of the city, the Belgrade Fortress, the starting point of all events in Belgrade throughout many centuries, today a favorite city promenade and art lovers’ destination. During its history, Belgrade has changed its appearance, its visible face many times, but never its particular city spirit – its Belgrade lifestyle.
ENTERING THE BOHEMIAN QUARTER Knez-Mihailova Street, the major street of Belgrade, is in the immediate vicinity of the Belgrade Fortress. Never empty. You can measure it in meters or encounters, favorite places and Belgrade institutions. Passers-by, street musicians, friends looking at shop windows, beautiful and colorful people… As a street, it was first mentioned several centuries ago and continued growing together with the city. Many of its previous kafanas, hotels and shops are mentioned in the city chronicles, whilst some of its new important edifices are being entered. This street has important special places, some common and some only our own. The first are in the map of the city, the latter in the hearts of Belgradians. From Knez-Mihailova, you come to the Republic Square, with the most famous monument in Belgrade: Monument of Prince Mihailo. The National Museum the and National Theater, the most important cultural institutions of the city, are at the edges of the Square.
2012 Special Edition
Photos: Aleksandar Ćosić and TOB
View of the confluence of two rivers from the Belgrade Fortress
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Welcome Island in the Middle of the City If you want to completely run away from the bustle, from the everyday life of a big city, you don’t have to go far. Only four kilometers from the city center are the Sava Lake and Ada Ciganlija, favorite resort of Belgradians and their guests. The vast green areas of the river island (peninsula), a big and small lake, many wonderful walking trails and bicycle paths, sports facilities, beaches, about a hundred cafés on the shore – enable everyone to find whatever they might need. A city such as Belgrade wouldn’t be so powerfully attractive without its special oasis of peace – Ada Ciganlija.
Street musicians in Knez-Mihailova Street, the main pedestrian zone of Belgrade
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Only a few hundred meters further from the main city square, the entire city bustle suddenly silences and disappears. The relaxed face of Belgrade can be best seen there, in Skadarlija, the old bohemian quarter, the street of kafanas and poets, a famous place often visited by Belgradians and their guests. Time seems to stop here; the refined casualness and old spirit of the city are simply enchanting. If you don’t feel the nostalgic atmosphere and spirit of Skadarlija, you cannot understand the true soul of this city and its people. Depending on the occasion and taste, in accordance with your mood and time of the day, you can choose a restaurant, menu, wine, melody. One thing will
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remain the same though: the recognizable homelike taste of Skadarlija. A PACKAGE FOR THE WHOLE WORLD During your stay in Belgrade, in the mentioned or some other places, those recommended or those you have discovered yourself, you will realize your special bond with the city. Considering such a tourist offer of Belgrade as a convenient city break destination, the Tourist Organization of Belgrade, together with its partners from the tourism branch (“JAT Airways”, “Nikola Tesla” Airport, hotels and agencies) made this offer available already from 198 Euros. There are flights from Berlin, London, Amsterdam, Milan, Paris, Thessalonica, Istanbul, Tel Aviv, Athens, Gothenburg, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Moscow, Zurich, Vienna, Rome, Frankfurt, Dusseldorf, Larnaca and Brussels.The entire heritage and entire spirit of Belgrade, all its sights and all the charm, are woven into the city’s tourist offer. There are streets, squares, monuments, parks, fountains, archeological sites, places one must definitely see or feel. Take a walk through the spacious cultural and historical wholes of Belgrade, we are convinced you will like them.
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Guide
TOURIST OFFER OF NIŠ IN 2012
From Antiquity to Burek Cheese Pie Constantin’s ancient Naisus, today modern Niš, is the commercial, cultural, educational and sports centre of Southeast Serbia. It has a population of about 300,000. Its turbulent history is a magnet for tourists and local people are righteously using it as an element of attractive tourist offer
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King Milan’s Square and Monument to the Liberators in Niš
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he fact that Niš is an intersection of roads can be seen again in this year’s offer of the Tourist Organization of this city on the Nišava River. Resourcefulness and a sense of humor, history and present. This is the plan for 2012. The Niš Fortress, this June, during “Constantine’s Days”, will be occupied by ancient Roman soldiers complete with uniforms and equipment. Here, in the hometown of the famous emperor, which was already big in thee ancient times, many roads still important today converge. Next year, 2013, a jubilee will be celebrated throughout Europe – 1,700th anniversary from Constantine’s adoption of the Edict of Milan and legitimating Christianity in the Roman Empire. The city of Niš, one of the Специјално издање 2012.
centers of this celebration, will ensure that its participation is on a high level. Constantin’s ancient Naisus, today modern Niš, is the commercial, cultural, educational and sports centre of Southeast Serbia. It has a population of about 300,000. Its turbulent history, which was unraveled here both in beneficial and cruel ways, is a magnet for tourists and local people are righteously using it as an element of attractive tourist offer. NIŠ TOURISM FAIRA The International Tourism Fair has been has been organized in Niš for many years. And it is logical for this hub of continental and civilization roads. This year, in recently reconstructed Sports Hall “Čair”, the three-
day long Fair (March 30 to April 1), will be organized for the thirteenth time. Last year there were more than 80 exhibitors. On their booths, they offered everything that Niš, Serbia and the world can offer in various markets of tourist services. Encounters of tour operators and hotel managers, presentation of tourist organizations and businessmen (who are jointly creating an offer), will ensure that tourist products are noticed and accepted, and that their message reaches its target. That is why a lot of work is done at the se Niš Tourism Fair. Three weeks before the spring, experiences of many who are preparing their offers fir the upcoming seasons will be exchanged in Niš. From rural and wellness to elite tourism. CONSTANTINE’S DAYS Niš is celebrating its official Saint Day, the Day of Holy Emperor Constantine, on June 3. From the first to the fifth day of that month, modern Niš is transformed into ancient Naisus, through imaginative celebration framed within the event “Constantine’s Days”. Everybody who comes to the Niš Fortress during this event will be able to see how ancient Romans dwelled in a military camp. On a true Roman fair they will be able to buy souvenirs, jewelry, pottery. Even the food will not be the today typical barbecue, but ancient
Roman dishes (some people can’t wait to taste this). However, this will be supplemented by real Serbian honey, rakia and wine. But, ancient Rome would not be complete without its archers. That is why they will be discharging arrows on the Niš pier and compete for imperial trophy. During “Constantine’s Days”, within “Roman Games”, actors and puppeteers, singers and dancers will pay respects to the emperor who was born here, this great historical personality. Roman chariots will be ceremoniously passing not far from the exhibition “Emperor Constantine and Ancient Niš”. And the “Roman Night” will be followed by “Costume Party”, or Roman Masked Ball, which is also anxiously awaited by many. “Palilula Evening” is traditional celebration of the city Saint Day of Saint Constantine. Natalija Živanović, from the Tourist Organization of Niš, says that everything has begun in an old street in the city centre, where the citizens were voluntarily celebrating Saint Constantine, bringing the tables out on the street, serving drinks and various delicacies.
A bridge over the Nišava. Kazandžijsko sokače. Monument of Čegar. Shopping centre “Gorča”. A park in Niška Banja
Ceremoniously On the city Saint Day, June 3, all museums will be open. Vigil and liturgy will take place in the temple of Holy Emperor Constantine and Empress Jelena (his mother), and Procession in Saint Sava Park, as well as the “Imperial Evening”.
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Guide
Rafting on the Nišava, near Ostrovica. Skiing on Bojanine vode
Today, Palilula district of the city is crowded with cars and filled with songs, playing čoček, as well as still very much loved “old town” songs. Scientists will gather at the University building at the congress “Niš and Byzantine”. That same day, daring jeep and SUV drivers will embark on a challenging journey – Professional Rally “Katena Mundi”, along the historical unpaved road Via militaris, from Kalafat to Mali Jastrebac. DAYS OF BUREK CHEESE PIE It was in Niš that the first burek cheese pie in Serbia was baked. It was baked by Turkish baker Mehmed Oglu, in the summer of 1498. From then and until the 21st century, burek has been the favorite breakfast of many Balkan people, all the way to Slovenia. That is why the event “Days of Burek” that takes place in Sep-
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tember has special significance for people of Niš and guests. Burek can be found everywhere in Niš, and especially in u Voždova Street: Last year from September 22 to 24, the following happened in the honor of burek: Parade of participants and students of the Food Technology School through the city, from Kalča to Kej. Then the chefs-bakers were making and selling burek at their booths. There was music for children and for adults, with bands from Macedonia, Bulgaria and Greece, and in the evening the burek lovers were entertained by an illusionist. Band “Zvezdana noć” from Niš was playing until midnight. The following day, on Friday, theatre performance “Children’s Magic”, and in the evening “Townspeople”. The following day, bakers competed in who will make the best burek. Painters were working in the art colony. This year, the program will be even more diverse. However, the news that there will also bi a “fish burek” is not true. Something similar was suggested by the Chinese a couple of years ago. Cheese burek is still unbeatable, if made in the proper way: by throwing the dough in the air and kneading it in the air, and then stuffing it with the right filling. Some people like “burek with nothing”. With no filling. Those who can make it well are true maestros. We will see this in Niš.
Catalog
LAZAREVAC, CENTER OF SERBIAN MINING, IN A DIFFERENT SELF-RECOGNITION
Discovering Tourism Potentials
Southern and eastern parts of Lazarevac municipality, where there are no mines, have all the beauty of Šumadija. When their entire offer in the area of rural, cultural-historical, sports-recreational, industrial or religious tourism is listed, even many locals are surprised. Exactly this is the foundation on which they are building a new strategy of development of Lazarevac tourism
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hen one mentions Lazarevac, the first associations are usually coal mine, tilled land, endangered environment. However, although under heavy burden of mining-energy production activities, Lazarevac municipality – rich in natural, cultural, urban beauty – has a significant tourist potential. Cultural and historic heritage of this municipality is also not well known to the general public. There are also numerous modern sports facilities, courts
Cultural-historic heritage A memorial dedicated to Duke Stanoje, one of the first who was killed by the dahias in the eve of the First Serbian Uprising. The old military cemetery. Memorial charnel house of soldiers killed in World War One. Vrače brdo, a place of remembrance of the famous Battle of Kolubara. Modern gallery. Ambiental unit “Kamengrad”. “Magic Garden” made by sculptor Bogosav Živković in the village of Leskovac, an exceptional tourist attraction, also famous for being visited by Jimmy Carter, former president of the USA.
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suitable for good quality preparations and competitions and most sports. We can add to this recreational, rural and specific industry tourism. All these are elements on which the experts in Lazarevac are building their strategy for the development of tourism. Non-mining Lazarevac. Southern and eastern parts of Lazarevac municipality, where there are no mines, have all the characteristics that adorn Šumadija. There is also a good road network and other infrastructure, a solid foundation for the development of rural tourism. In the radius of only a few kilometers there are numerous sports facilities, indoor and outdoor swimming pool, sports hall with courts for handball and volleyball, bowling alley, tennis courts, football stadium with an auxiliary court and athletics track, shooting range on the Tamnava! There are an increasing number of lakes, created by reclaiming no longer active mines. They are rich in fish and they offer numer-
Religious tourism Temple dedicated to holy martyr Dimitrije (with Memorial charnel house of soldiers killed in the Battle of Kolubara in 1914). Log cabin churches in Vreoci, Baroševac and Brajkovac. Ćelije Monastery, holding the relics of holy Justin Ćelijski and where, according to legend, Saints Cosmas and Damian used to stay... These are only some of the elements of sacred heritage of Lazarevac. ous attractive possibilities. In the forests of Lazarevac there is plenty of interesting wildlife, and it is well justified to create a better concept of hunting tourism. (Post)industrial tourism. Visits to surface mines and facilities significant for the development of mining, as well as examples of old technologies (cable cars, steam locomotives and smithies), proved to be attractive for tourists. “Moon Landscape” of surface mines, seen from Volujak viewpoint, has already entered numerous Serbian photo-monographs. It has turned out that this levy, paid by Lazarevac for the benefit of the entire Serbia, can also be (perceived and used differently) a significant potential. A part of these land surfaces has been re-cultivated. Small lakes were created in valleys – over twenty – surrounded by picturesque forests. An excellent area has been created for recreational and sports tourism. Sports-recreational tourism. Modern sports centre and shooting range “Tamnava” attracts a large number of visitors. Recreational complex near the Očage Lake has a special place in tourist offer of Lazarevac. Right on the major road that leads to Čačak, Užice and the sea,, it is situated only 55 kilometers from Belgrade. The lake has spring water that is filtrated daily with modern devices, in compliance with strict regulations for river water that is used for swimming and water sports. The lake is six meters deep, has a capacity of about 6,000 swimmers per day. It has two Olympic diving platforms, each with three levels, and a slider with swimming pool for children and young people. The area around the lake is covered with grass, with landscaped walking paths and benches. There are also beautiful courts for small sports (for example, volleyball and football on sand). The lake is illuminated, and can be used even at night, both for swimming and for cultural and sports events. The complex includes a restaurant, with a large parking area. Also envisaged are areas for sports camp and weekend resort, with all related facilities. Ethno village “Babina reka”. It was built for ten years, and operates since 2010. It is situated in the village of Trbušnica, 12 kilometers from Lazarevac and 20 from Aranđelovac, occupying a surface area of one hectare. It is on the very end of the settlement, naturally isolated from everything urban. The complex includes a beautiful garden with fountains and natural shade, a stage for cultural-artistic programs, parking and a souvenir shop, and the home museum is currently under construction. It is surrounded by hills, mountains, creeks, the river and the forest. Only 50 meters from the accommodation facilities there is a lake, where you can go fishing, and next to it there is a very good restaurant and creek Babina reka (the complex was named after it). Nature in its full richness.
City centre. Log cabin church in Brajkovac. The Očage Lake. An open lake on the Kolubara River 2012 Special Edition
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Catalog
Calendar of Events in Lazarevac January • Epiphany swimming for the holy cross (January 19) February • Encounters of young violin players in Lazarevac • Competition of Young Pianists March • Eight of March International Chess Tournament for Women • Memorial handball tournament for veterans “Srećko Trifunović – Krekac” • International Agricultural Fair “Kolubara-Fest” May • Athletic street race • May encounters of young wind instrument and accordion players • Karate tournament on St. Mark’s Day, Veliki Crljeni June • Saint day of the city of Lazarevac – Pentecost • Day of the Municipality of Lazarevac – on Vidovdan (St. Vitus Day), June 28 • Bicycle Festival “Turn the Pedal” • Gathering of motorists – Moto Show July • Rudovci Sports Summer August • Rudovci Art Colony • Citroën 2CV “Spaček” Show September • Festival of Humor for Children • Days of Beekepers “Kolubara” October • State competition in standard and Latino dances • October Celebrations (Vreoci) November • Wine Festival “It’s time for wine, let’s drink local brands” December • Days of the Battle of Kolubara (December 9-15) • Traditional Christmas Small Football Tournament
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2012 ď‚&#x; Special Edition
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Serbian wine festival Lazarevac, 2012 Festival of Serbian Wines
“It is time for wine – let’s have the local one” In November, in the organization of the City Municipality of Lazarevac, Association of Winemakers and Vine-Growers “Zeočki vinogradi” and the Association of Winemakers of Serbia, over forty renowned Serbian winemakers, enologists and fans gather in Lazarevac for one day. To celebrate wine culture and authentic gastronomy, with excellent accompanying artistic program, this joyful and noble event captures all those who visit it. Check your calendar, and be one of them this year!
AC V E R A Z A L N I S T FA I R E V E N Agricultural Fair “Kolubara Fest” Since 2008, every year in late March or early April, this Fair gathers in Lazarevac manufacturers of food, agricultural machinery, attachment machines, irrigation systems, tools, flowers and decorative plants, as well as those who work in rural tourism, cultural-artistic societies, creators from different areas relating to village and agriculture. In addition to exhibition space in the Old Hall, it also has a well arranged outdoor exhibition area. Attracting an exceptional number of visitors, it has already gained international character.
Сусрет / ENCOUNTER
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TRADITIONAL EPIPHANY CELEBRATION IN OHRID
Long Life and Many Years “The consecration of the Epiphany water is a traditional holiday in all Orthodox Christian churches, the memory of Christ’s baptizing in the Jordan. It begins with a liturgy, continues with a procession, then participants jump into the icy lake and swim for the cross. As you can see, the whole city is on the shore as well as our numerous guests. It is festive and joyful”, says Aleksandar Petreski, mayor of Ohrid
T
he January winter sun in the clear waves of the Ohrid Lake. The ancient city dressed in white, illuminated with the gold of heavenly light, was awaiting another magnificent festivity. Its citizens have been celebrating it for centuries, with a joyful greeting “long life and many years”. The morning festive bells are heard from numerous churches. Rivers of festively dressed people are arriving to the dock from all parts of the city. The Ohrid restaurants and producers pour hot brandy at the lake shore, to warm up the people of Ohrid and numerous guests from all parts of Macedonia, the region and faraway countries. Many foreign tourists came to the Epiphany celebration this year in the city of Clement and Naum, students of the great Slavic educators Cyril and Methodius.
Museum City During the recent archeological excavations in Ohrid, archeologists found new layers from the Bronze and Iron Age. They discovered ceramics, marble plastics, bronze statues of Daedalus and Dionysus, probably Zeus as well, from the Helenistic and Roman period. Artifacts from later Antiquity, early Byzantine period and Middle Ages were excavated as well… An ancient amphitheater was discovered under the Upper Port of the Old City. The names of regular visitors were still engraved in its stone seats. The central event, just like in the previous years, is lowering the plated cross into the lake. The most courageous ones then jump into the icy water and swim for the Cross, attempting to be the first to reach it. After the prayer and the consecration of the Epiphany water, in the presence of
OHRID CITY
Epiphany 2012: Mayor Aleksandar Petreski with the president of the Republic of Macedoniae Đorđe Ivanov and guests
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Encounter
The winner Mitko Topejnčarov
the president of Macedonia Djordje Ivanov and mayor of Ohrid Aleksandar Petreski, at 11 sharp, metropolitan Timotej lowered the plated cross into the water from one of the anchored boats. About 1.300 people who applied this year for this knightly competition, jump into the water and swim. The most skillful and luckiest was Mitko Topejnčarov from Ohrid, who succeeded in taking the cross out of the river for the fifth time and became a local hero. According to the legend, besides the golden twenty-four carat cross granted by the godfathers of the ceremony, the lucky diver may visit any house in the city, bring the host the blessing of the consecrated cross and receive money and other gifts in return. – The consecration of the water is a traditional holiday and ritual in all Orthodox Christian churches, as a memory of Christ’s baptizing in the Jordan. According to the an-
Basilica A monumental early Christian basilica with an atrium on the northern side, a narthex with a mosaic floor on the western, and a baptistery with mosaic ornaments were found at the archeological site near the Church of St. Clement. It is assumed that the basilica was dedicated to apostle Paul, who, it is believed, preached in these lands in the I century. More than 2.000 tombs dating between the IX and XV century were discovered at the same site.
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Churches They say Ohrid has so many Orthodox Churches that you can pray in a different one every day of the year. About twenty pearls of medieval churches were preserved in the city and its vicinity, such as Church of St. Sofia from the XI century, Church of St. John Kane from the XIII century, Church of St. Nicholas Bolnicki and Virgin Mary Bolnicka from the XIV century, Church of St. Clement (Virgin Mary of Perivlepta) from the XIII century, St. Naum of Ohrid from the X century... cient custom, the day begins with a holy liturgy, continues with a procession to the lake, where the water is consecrated and contestants swim for the cross. As you can see, the whole city is on the shore. Hot brandy and wine are given to people, everything is festive and joyful – says Aleksandar Petreski, mayor of Ohrid, emphasizing that more people are visiting the event every year. – Our objective is to make this an international Orthodox Christian event. Ohrid is a city with an intensive life throughout the year, mainly due to its many centuries long cultural heritage, openhearted and hospitable people, tasty food, good beverage, fine music well-known and famous Ohrid string orchestras.
HOTEL “BELVEDERE” Sv. Stefan 6000 Ohrid, Macedonia Tel.: +389 46 277 710, 277 720 Tel/Fax: + 389 46 265628
Ohrid - Peshtani, Macedonia Tel.: 00389 46 285 951 Fax: 00389 46 285 915 www.hoteldesaret.com.mk hotel@desaret.com.mk HOTELS DRIM, STRUGA, MACEDONIA (Hotel DRIM****; Hotel BEOGRAD***; Campsite AS) Kej Boris Kidric St., No. 51 Tel: +389 46 785 800; Fax: +389 46 780 460 e-mail: hdrim@t-home.mk web: www.drim.com.mk
S
hotel êêêê GRANIT - OHRID
hotelbelvedere@t-home.mk
www.hotelbelvedere.com.mk
Partizanska D-14, Ohrid, Macedonia Tel.: +389 46 250 308 Fax: + 389 46 231 980 hoteldiplomatohrid@yahoo.com www.hoteldiplomatohrid.info HOTEL “KLIMETICA” AND “DEPANDANS KLIMETICA” Nas. Sv. Stefan, Ohrid, Macedonia Tel: +389 46 277 667, 46 277 665 Fax: +389 46 277 668 hklimetica@t-home.mk info@hotelklimetica.com.mk www.hotelklimetica.com.mk
++389 46 207 100; 46 207 141 e-mail:reservation@hotelgranit.com.mk
HOTEL GRANIT - D.O.O.E.L Nas. Sv. Stefan 6000 Ohrid, Macedonia tel. +389 46 207 100 fax. +389 46 207 141 www.hotelgranit.com.mk reservation@hotelgranit.com.mk skype: hotel.granit facebook: hotel granit
HOTEL “TINO” OHRID “Kej Marshal Tito” 55 www.hoteltino.com.mk hoteltino@t-home.mk Tel.: +389 46 230 450 +389 46 230 451 +389 46 261 665
TOURIST INFO CENTER “VIS POJ” Makedonski Prosvetiteli 7, 6000 Ohrid, Macedonia Tel.: +389 46 255 605, 255 600 touristinfocenter@ohrid.com.mk reservation@vispoj.com.mk www.ohrid.travel www.vispoj.com.mk
HOTELS “METROPOL” AD OHRID Nas. Konjsko bb, 6000 Ohrid, Macedonia Tel: +389 46 277 660; 203 000; Fax: +389 46 277 212 info@metropol-ohrid.com; www.metropol-ohrid.com
HOTEL “SILEKS” DOOEL Nas. Sv. Stefan bb, Ohrid, Macedonia Тel: +389 46 277 300; Fax: +389 46 277 304 info@hotelsileks.mk, www.hotelsileks.mk
“Ostrovo B.D.B”- DOOEL St. Naum, Ljubaništa 6000 0hrid, Macedonia Tel.: +389 46 283-090, 283-091 Mob: +389 72 210-906 ostrovo_svetinaum@t-home.mk pearls_fam.risteski@yahoo.com www.restoranostrovo.com.mk
VILLA & SPA SPARADISE 15 Korpus 41, 6000 Ohrid, Macedonia Tel.: +389 46 611 220 sparadise@yahoo.com
Здрав ље / HEALTH
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Специјално издање 2012.
AMONG HILLS AND BOONS, IN LUKOVSKA AND PROLOM BANJI
Health Facilities in Dragon’s Furrow In many way different from other beautiful thermal water centers of Serbia. Word about their medicinal qualities has spread far and wide (they say that even fairytales here can cure), but now there are many other modern facilities because of which even the healthy come here, and majority of the guests are “frequent visitors” By: Petar Milatović
T
here are two roads that lead from Belgrade to Lukovska Banja. One, somewhat longer, by highway to Niš, and then further to Prokuplje, Kuršumlija, and from there, one should drive for a while down the macadam road that goes along the accumulation lake, intended to provide sufficient quantity of drinking water to Toplice district. About 330 kilometers. The second road is by about thirty kilometers shorter and, in my opinion, much more comfortable, for both the eyes and the car. Therefore, one should take the highway until exit for Kruševac, then to Brus, then to Brzeće... Afterwards, sailing downhill through a beautiful landscape of eastern slopes of Kopaonik, after about forty kilometers you will arrive at the destination. And then you are speechless. That is the first impression of a man who has arrived at Lukovska Banja for the first time. Silence. Only here and there one can hear an axe, it is winter time. All around, just like on an old mountain postcard, silent smokes from chimneys of tightly packed houses. The highest in the beautiful necklace of Serrbian spa resorts, Lukovska has nestled at 681 meters above the sea level. Mountain peaks around it are over 1,000 meters high. Based on the number of mineral water springs (37), diversity of composition and temperature (from 35 to 69.5 degrees Celsius), abundance (over 100 liters per second), it is one of spa resorts in Serbia that is richest in water. It is known that the medicinal waters of this spa resort was used by ancient Romans. Even king Milutin could not have resisted them, one of the most powerful Serbian rulers in the Middle Ages, and the Turks were also taking baths here in their bathrooms-hamams. The first modern bathroom with male and female
pool was built in 1948, but the real development, the seed of what exists here today in Lukovska Banja, begins in 1999, when Hotel Kopaonik was built. Ten years later, Hotel Jelak was built, also very modern, equipped with everything that is necessary for the development of contemporary spa and wellness tourism. There is also a new bath “Šljivak”, with the most medicinal thermal-mineral waters (which, together with gases, spring up from deposits), temperature from 32 to 43 degrees Celsius. A little above, in the part that is called Gornja banja, two mud thermal springs are renovated into outdoor pools. HEALTHY EVEN FOR THE HEALTHY Extensive medical research, as well as personal experiences, confirms the benefits of Lukovska Banja, of all of its therapies, from mud, hydro, electro and magnetic therapies to hand massage. I do not exactly have all the diseases that the professional medical staff of this spa resort is specialized in – and these are, primarily, rheumatic difficulties, degenerative
Photographs: Dragan Bosnić
“Planinka” The current company “AD Planinka”, founded in Kuršumlija in 1964, to manage natural resources of the municipality, was privatized in 1999, in such a way that 95 percent of the capital went to workers as shareholders. The owners of this, today modern company, are “Prolom voda”, Hotel Radan in Prolom Banja, hotels Kopaonik and Jelak in Lukovska Banja, ethno restaurant, ski-track, and sports hall, and in 1995, the natural monument Đavolja was placed into their care. Thanks to “AD Planinka”, the holder of economic development of Kuršumlija and Toplice district, which has 367 employees, the number of people leaving this area to go to big cities in search of employments has been significantly decreased.
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Health
diseases of the spine and conditions after injuries on skeletaljoint system – but my gout was tamed here. It was in Banja that I met a married couple from Belgrade and spent time with them. He is a middle-aged pilot in JAT, and she is a business woman. She arrived first, after severe bone fractures from a car accident. He joined her the following year, as becomes the superb pilots, absolutely healthy. And here they are in Banja, for the fourth year in a row, although, thanks to the benefits of their profession, Abu Dhabi (for example) is also easily accessible to them. However, they confided, they would not give up their seven to eight days in Banja for any other place on the planet. This case has also proved right the orientation of the leading people Lukovskoj, as well as Prolom Banja that is about fifty kilometers away, that this spa resort should not be only a medical facility, but a place for vacation, the real one, without lying around. In addition to
Discounts Both spa resorts, Lukovska and Prolom, offer extraordinary discounts for their guests. It is difficult to mention them all. The best would be for those who are interested to ask in person: for Lukovska at telephone numbers 027 381-344 and 381-512 or by e-mail (info@lukovskabanja.com, www.lukovskabanja.org), for Prolom Banju 027 88-111 and 027 88-162 or by e-mail (info@ prolombanja.com, www.prolombanja.org).
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exceptional health tracks, there is a handy skilift, with a very decent track, and balloon-hall for many sports (in which the famous Jelena Genčić, the first coach of Novak Đoković, has her tennis school). An exceptional challenge is St. George Church on Nenadov kamen, 975 meters above the sea level, three hundred more than the spar resort itself. Built recently, it is almost irresistibly enticing spa guests to walk toward it. And there are two roads, a longer and much easier one, and a shorter but almost vertical one. In the evening, people make bets who will arrive first and by taking which road, and the next afternoon, mostly in the outdoor swimming pool in front of Hotel Jelak, where temperature is about 36 degrees (in cold days it is steamy like mother’s soup on Sunday), people talk about this extraordinary adventure. EVEN FAIRYTALES HELP Situated 600 meters above the sea level and surrounded by Radan, Sokolovica and Meanske Mountains (from 1,000 to 4,000 meters above the sea level), about ten kilometers after taking aturn at the settlement of Rudare on the major road Niš-Priština, Prolom Banja is a true balm for all those with specific health conditions. Namely, these are people who suffer from renal and urinary tract disorders, digestive tract disorders, skin diseases (primarily psoriasis), peripheral blood vessel disorders and soft tissue rheumatism. Two things are decisive. First, local waters belong to those rare waters “with high balneology values, like alkalinity, presence of ozone and silica acid, as well as low content of fluorine, because of which it can be drunk in unlimited quantities”. The second thing can be credited to a natural phenomenon, i.e. creatures from fairytales. This concerns the so-called dragon’s furrows, a phenomenon that occur only in
about thirty places in the world and two in the Balkans. Namely, on the slopes of Radan, there is positive magnetic field of the soil that, it has been proved, is beneficial for people’s health and stretches the limits of their age. And, as we know from fairytales, dragons live quite long. The influence of medicinal mud is also important. For centuries, the soil surrounding Prolom natural springs has been soaked with medicinal water. First the locals, and then increasingly frequent guests discovered that his mud can treat skin and other diseases. Today, this medicinal mud is obtained by mixing thermal water and soil from the surroundings of the spring Pupavci, and is used in the most modern mud baths, or as a compress, in a treatment block of the local Special Hospital. Because of the reputation of Prolom Banja in professional circles, members of the Dermatology Section of Serbian Medical Society has been organizing seminars here for eleventh consecutive year. Prof. Dr Sonja Vesić, president of the Section, is not hiding her satisfaction with results of treatment in Prolom Banka, especially in patients who have problems with psoriasis. Prof. Dr Mirjana Paravina agrees. Depending on a person and severity of the disease, she says, some patients experience up to 80 percent of improvement in comparison with the period before they were treated here. TO MAKE IT EASIER FOR GUESTS The centre of activities in the spa resort below “Dragon’s Furrows” is certainly the modern Hotel Radan, which includes – to make it easier for the guests – a medical treatment block, so that one can almost complete all activities in a bathrobe, which is waiting for the guest in his or her room. And in the room (every room has a television, refrigerator, hair dryer, internet connection) the medicinal spa water is running
through taps. Based on individual preferences, all hotel guests can use the fitness center, the hall for small sports, billiard, table tennis hall. There is also a large swimming pool with thermal water. This modern wellness center is offering everything, from detoxification of the body, to various beauty programs. Basically, you come withered and leave rested. You come tired and leave energized. In addition to hotel facilities, depending on individual needs and curiosity, one can go down the so-called health tracks along the creek with the same name, then have a trout at Ethnotavern. Those who like our history would go to Lazarica Church (2.5 km), And thjose who cannot have enough of natural wonders, will go to Đavolja varoš (about ten kilometers by foot, or 27 kilometers by spa resort bus). And what can we say about Sokolov vis or Gajtanska vrata? Exactly because of all these facilities, both in Prolom and in Lukovska Banja the borders between medicinal and recreational tourism are being erased, and it has already been about two-three years that there are special package tours intended for those who want to, in a short time, mostly on weekends, vreme, erase the layers of stress from work and provide rest fro their body and soul. The border between seasons has also been erased recently in both spa resorts. The season here lasts for 365 days, and in various periods there are special discounts and other benefits. 2012 Special Edition
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Dr Branislav Katančević, Director of “Ribarska Banja”
Health
Fruits of
RIBARSKA BANJA CONTINUES GOING UPWARD
Big Investments About nine million Euros has been invested in seven years. The spa center has restored its former glow. Old villas were refurbished, new facilities were built in the spirit of the natural environment, modern programs were introduced. Over 250 young educated people have been employed. Capacities are filled for almost one hundred percent, and the number of foreign guests is growing
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Photo: Roza Sazdić, Radovan Vučković
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t has been a respected medical facility since ancient times, and in the past few years it has grown into one of the leaders of spa tourism in Serbia. With its new appearance and diverse facilities, it attracts a large number of guests, not only as a medical facility, but also as a tourist destination. – This spa resort has a rich history. Respecting this tradition, we have restored the Специјално издање 2012.
former glory of this spa ambiance. We have reconstructed and equipped old villas, built new facilities in the spirit of the natural surroundings, through reconstruction of the former Turkish hamam, a building from the 16th century, we have created the most modern wellness center. All architectural and design solutions have been adapted to the existing unit – says Dr Branislav Katančević, director of Ribarska Banja.
In the past nine years, about 12 million Euros was invested in Ribarska Banja. In this way, an almost forgotten destination has resurfaced as an exclusive representative of health tourism in the region. – We have adopted new business strategy in 2003, adopted new development concept, accepted the world trend that is focusing on health care and is using natural factors for preventive purposes. And wellness and spa program are the road to healthier and better life – explains Dr Katančević. With its appearance, the wellness center gives a new dimension to this harmonic area and supplements the offer of Ribarska Banja. On about 5,000 square meters there are indoor and outdoor pool, steam bath, fitness room, saunas, salty rooms, massage parlors and an apartment for couples. This wellness centre also stands out because of its open air concert-theatre stage. The highest standards were implemented in both the construction and furnishing of the building, and in preparing programs, various massage therapies, facial and body treatments. A curiosity is bathing in medicinal herbs and fruit from Jastrebac region.
– The area where our spa resort is located can be compared with the most prestigious spa centers in Europe. It is characterized by a specific climate, and the thermal water has exceptional balneology properties and it stops the cell aging process. Medicinal peloid with zeolite is used, this element of the future, since it is one of the most powerful antioxidants. As a doctor, I have always been interested in using the natural factor combined with professional program in medical treatment. Ribarska Banja is primarily a healthcare institution. Tens of thousands of cured patients are the testimony of our success – says Dr Katančević. The example of Ribarska Banja convincingly shows that investing in healthcare and rehabilitation centers is profitable. Knowledge, energy and about five million Euros of own funds were invested in this beautiful local wellness centre. And at the end of the business year they had their capacities filled almost one hundred percent, and had an increase in the number of foreign guests. Great interest for staying here opens up new development perspectives for both the spa center and the entire region. 2012 Special Edition
Special Hospital “Ribarska Banja” Tel. 037 865 261, 865 120, 865 270 Fax: 037 865 129 ribarskabanja@yahoo.com www.ribarskabanja.rs
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Здрав ље / HEALTH
SPECIAL HOSPITAL “MERKUR” FROM VRNJAČKA BANJA AT THE TOURISM FAIR IN BELGRADE
By the Standards of European Spa Centers The respectable institution has changed its business philosophy and focused on new attractive programs, in accordance with the best world balneology programs
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he presentation of the Special Hospital “Merkur” at the Tourism Fair in Belgrade, February 23 to 26, 2012, is the real opportunity for presenting its new strategy in marketing and management.
Source of Pleasure Under the slogan “Source of Pleasure”, the visitors will be informed about great discounts and special benefits for all services offered at “Merkur’s” Wellness Centre “Fons romanus”. Enjoyment in the swimming pool with thermal-mineral water and underwater massage, sauna park and Turkish bath, is only a part of the offer that “Merkur” will use to tickle the imagination of visitors.
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During its first independent appearance in Belgrade, it will present new programs and special benefits from its diverse offer. In addition to the existing health programs (“Treatment as Vacation”, “Living with Diabetes”, “Gastro Package”, “For Your Best Age”, “Quick Diagnostics”, “For Movement Without Pain”, “Linea Life”, “Smile as a Gift”, “Manager Prevention Program”), and wellness programs (“Wellness Weekend and “Honeymoon”) – “Merkur” has supplemented its offer with new health programs (“Lady Life” – gynecological prevention program, and “For Your Lighter Step”) and wellness packages (“Relax Wellness Week-
end”, “Romantic Weekend for Two” and “Royal Wellness Weekend”). A part of “Merkur’s” booth will be dedicated to people suffering from diabetes, where all visitors at the fair will be able to get free medical advice and to check their sugar blood level. “Merkur” will once again remind people of the right that all diabetes patients in Serbia have (whether they are on insulin or tablet therapy) – the right to the program of ten-day extended rehabilitation and education. Additionally, they will present a special edition of bulletin Diabetes Merkur Pres in Serbian language, dedicated to diabetes patients. Peloid Center “Limus Romanus”, opened last year, will enable the Fair visitors to see for themselves the beneficial effects of the treatment with medicinal mud (peloid). They will present programs “Kavifit” and “Kavilift”, as the most advanced method of shaping body and facial care. They combine cavitation, radio-frequency and mechanical lymph drainage treatments – safe, efficient and permanent method that enable lifting and liposuction without surgical intervention. You will see much more than this if you visit “Merkur’s” booth at the Tourism Fair in Belgrade, Hall 4.
“Merkur Press” Another novelty in this year’s presentation of “Merkur” at the Tourism Fair in Belgrade will be the bulletin Merkur Press in Serbian language, through which the visitors will have an opportunity to get some more detailed information about the projects and possibilities of this Special Hospital.
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Recommendation
FAMOUS RESTAURANT “PRI VODNIKU” IN LJUBLJANA
Poet’s Gourmet Sonnet N
archives of the Museum of Valentin Vodnik, he only looked at me and asked me to let him spread his wings. You are not even aware of where you are. This is great treasure and a great challenge for me! Just let me spread my wings and do not set deadlines,, he said, and pushed into my hand a list of necessary maVodnikova65a, terials, not asking about money and condi1000 Ljubljana tions of the engagement. Tel.: +386 1 50 55 907 The menu with old culinary specialties was Mob.: +386 41 301 800 also conceived in traditional spirit, with deliinfo@privodniku.si cacies of our grandmothers, say lovely and alwww.privodniku.si ways smiling waitress Greta Vadis, the trademark of Vodnik’s nook. Most of the dishes in culinary menu of this restaurant have been taken from the first Slovenian Cookbook published exactly by Valentin Vodnik. The menu is comprised of poetically arranged old Slovenian dishes, starting from rustic mushroom stew, local prosciutto, duck specialties, fish, venison, all the way to diverse sweet dishes. 2012 Special Edition
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Slavko Latinović, the owner
ot far from the centre of Ljubljana, within the complex of the Memorial Home-Museum of the first famous Slovenian poet Valentin Vodnik, there is an exclusive restaurant “Pri Vodniku”, certainly one of the most elegant hospitality facilities in the Slovenian capital. The place with a soul and for the soul, with good drinks, tasty traditional Slovenian dishes, warm and cordial service and, above all, with unusually warm and authentic ambiance of mixed, but skillfully matched forms. Under the ceiling made of full brick, they have harmoniously blended wood, stone, ceramics, as well as numerous sculpted, carved or dressed artifacts. This rustic place was built on the place of the old “Furmanska gostilna” (Coachman’s Tavern) from the 19th century, kept by the parents of Valentin Vodnik right next to the barn. It was modeled by a skilled hand of talented artist Miladin Letić, a painter from Drvar, now living in Milan. The main motto of this artist, embodied here so perfectly, is that every ambiance must have a soul. Owner of the restaurant (with comfortable lodgings) Slavko Latinović, could not have imagined that the inspired artist would, with its creativity and in the spirit of old interior designers, turn a ruined building into a well rounded and warm ambiental unit. “I was thinking of opening a pizzeria. However, when Miladin Letić dove into the
Recommendation
“OLD CUSTOMS HOUSE”, ON ZEMUN QUAY, WITH US FOR FIFTEEN YEARS
By Danube Standards
Basically, it is old Serbian cuisine, with a lot of knowledge, skills and delicacies that have been forgotten elsewhere. Guests? Mostly people with rich gastronomy and enology experience, those who know perfectly what they are looking for and who know exactly why they are coming here
D
uring these ice-cold days, the well known restaurant “Old Customs House” on Zemun Quay, owned by the Dašić family, has celebrated the fifteenth anniversary of successful operations. Intimate, moderate and noble. The Dašić family is originally from Peć, the noble Metohians, teh best old school and honest entrepreneurs. The family has come to Belgrade in early 1970’s. They lived in Glavna Street in Zemun, old Dragoljub then worked at “Beograd” Shoe Factory. In 1982, they bought a house in Bežanijska Street no. 3. They had been renovating it for full four years, from foundations to the roof, before it became the famous “Skala”. – We opened “Skala” in 1987, on St. John’s Day, our saint day – says Dejan Dašić, who is today managing the family business. – At first, it was only a pizzeria, with a tavern and beautiful garden. In 1996, it was completely refurbished and redesigned, so that now it can accommodate 170
Entrepreneurship
S K A L A HOTEL
Hotel “Skala” Zemun, Bežanijska 3 + 381 11 30 75 032, www.hotelskala.rs
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Dilligent, with a healthy sense of good business, the Dašić family was involved in other activities as well. They had their shoe production, producing goods commissioned by the military and the police. Now they are thinking of expanding their wine production, opening a nursing home, and many other things. But in everything their starting point is: whatever they do, it must be honest and with superb quality.
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people. As is typical for large facilities, larger dedicated gatherings are organized there: seminars, symposia, weddings, birthdays... Since 2009, “Skala” also operates as an excellent hotel, with 14 tastefully furnished rooms and two apartments, equipped in accordance with high standards. STRONG FEELING OF THE VICINITY OF THE RIVER In 2006, in Donja varoš in Zemun, across from Stara kapetanija (Old Harbor-Master’s Office Building), in the building of old Austro-Hungarian customs office from 1723, the Dašić family opened the “Old Customs House”. – At that time, this was a warehouse space – says Dejan Dašić, while we are tasting his excellent wine made form grapes from the vicinity of Trstenik. – The building is made in classicist style, in strict symmetry, with baroque ceiling structures in the basement and ground floor, and it was one of the biggest buildings in Zemun at that time. We have completely renovated it, while keeping its original virtues and patina, and a fine rusticity, but also enabling it to be equipped with the best restaurant facilities. We have tried to move it from the crowded street, but preserve the strong feeling of the vicinity of the Danube. Cuisine at the “Old Customs House” is conceived with special care, based on the idea of Dejan’s father Dragoljub Dašić, a jolly and vivacious gentleman, who understands life and people well, just like his contemporary from Elusive Summer 1968. – You can see for yourself, this is an open-type kitchen. Guests can see what is being prepared and how, from what ingredients, hey can choose what they want us to prepare for them – explains Dejan Dašić. – Basically, it is old Serbian cuisine, with a lot of knowledge, skills and delicacies that have been practically forgotten elsewhere. Of course, we can prepare even the most demanding specialties from other national cuisines, upon agreement with our guests. Since the Danube is our first neighbor, our menu includes all types of delicacies made of fish, a happy mixture of Mediterranean and continental experience. And all this is skillfully planned and realized by our main chef Milenko Šorgić, from Dalmatia, with skills forged in best restaurants in Dubrovnik. Guests of the “Old Customs House” are serious business people, there are people from the media, culture, sports. There are many foreigners. Mostly people with rich gastronomy and enology experience, those who know perfectly what they are looking for, what they are getting, and who know exactly why they are coming here. Of course, there is good live music, folk and “old-town”, from Wednesday to Sunday. Because you can’t be on the Danube without music.
“Stara carinarnica” (“Old Customs House”) Zemun, Kej oslobođenja 31 + 381 11 2616 930, 3077 166
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Knowledge Prof. Dr Milovan Stanišić, Dean of the University “Singidunum”
University “Singidunum” U
University “Singidunum” Belgrade, Danijelova 32 011 / 3093 220, 3094 094, faks 3093 294 www.singidunum.ac.rs
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niversity “Singidunum” is a higher education institution created as the result of desire to provide the future business elite in Serbia and regional countries with modern knowledge through methods and scientific techniques that are applied in modern university centers of European countries. Pursuant to the Law on Higher Education, it is accredited for undergraduate, master and doctoral studies in three scientific fields: social-humanities, sciencemathematics and technical sciences. The integrated part of the University “Singidunum” includes the Faculty of Business in Belgrade, Faculty of Tourism and Hotel Management, Faculty of Informatics and Computing and Faculty of Management. There is also Faculty of Business in Valjevo, Faculty of Media and Communications, Faculty of Economy, Finances and Administration, Faculty of European Legal-Political Studies and Faculty of Applied Ecology. Great interest for enrollment in the studies, as well as significant number of alumni of this school who now occupy high positions in leading companies in the country and abroad, justify the decision to award University “Singidunum” the EDU-BUSINESS PARTNER Award for 2011. The award emphasized the quality of educational institutions in the transfer of knowledge and skills to young people in Serbia and the region. Students of University “Singidunum” are provided with the opportunity, if they are ready to take the responsibility for their caСпецијално издање 2012.
reer and their life, to, in addition to gaining knowledge, find answers to unexpected life challenges that wait for them in the future. Positive atmosphere and interactive learning contribute to the motivation of students to take this responsibility and to, in addition to gaining knew knowledge, set, as their personal goals, the development of exceptional level of creativity and other skills. In this way, they will build themselves as experts and as people.
The Faculty for Tourism and Hotel Management obtained International Accreditation for study programs of undergraduate and master studies. The World Tourist Organization in Madrid, which has the status of a specialized organization of the United Nations, is especially involved in including the best known world universities that educate highly qualified personnel in the area of tourism and hotel management. This activity is realized through specialized organization se “TEDQUAL UNWTO.THEMIS”, which is located in Andorra. Members of this organization are 69 renowned universities from all continents, and one of them is University “Singidunum” (the Faculty for Tourism and Hotel Management). The full list of universities can be seen at website: www.themis.unwto. org/en/content/institutions-unwtotedqualcertified-programmes. The accreditation procedure is very complex, and the decision is made by a specialized body of experts of
Prof. Dr Slobodan Unković with an alumnus of “Singidunum”
this organization, on the basis of the report by an expert team composed of well known scientists in the field of tourism. In this way, University “Singidunum” has become a part of the big family of the best known world universities, also accredited by the World Tourist Organization. The Faculty for Tourism and Hotel Management has obtained the accreditation document, asd follows: • Bachelor in Tourism & Hospitality Management for four-year study program, in English. • Master in Business Systems in Tourism & Hospitality, one-year and two year study program, in English.
PROF. DR MILOVAN STANIŠIĆ, DEAN OF UNIVERSITY “SINGIDUNUM”
Vision of Development and Mission of Transferring Knowledge
U
niversity “Singidunum” today has nine faculties and 12,000 student. Twelve years ago, when professor Dr Milovan Stanišić founded their first faculty, it was the first private university in Serbia. It has enrolled about 20,000 students by now. – The mission of transferring knowledge is a noble one, and the fact that your knowledge and experience can be of use to somebody else means a lot – says professor Stanišić. – We teach young people to be proactive, to create events. It is necessary to awaken motivation in them, to help them understand that it is them who should fight for a better tomorrow. Only those with ideas will survive. Ideas are the greatest quality, a true capital, and money is only temporarily in our possession. Young people define success as ascent, adds profes-
sor Stanišić, but they should be taught that business is not a constant success. Even the most successful and the wealthiest people had their periods in business operations. One of the rules is to set the goals and to strive to achieve them, continuously go forward regardless of efforts. – At University “Singidunum”, we provide students with the opportunity to learn how to achieve their goals, how to lead their life and their career. They will receive superb professional knowledge that has actual market value. And if they have the ambition, they have it all. Those who invest in their development, have the results! There are as many theories of success as there are people. I have managed to achieve my life goals and to, together with great experts and extraordinary professors, do a good thing that benefits both the economy and the society. 2012 Special Edition
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Insurance
Working Together – Winning Together The insurance company “DDOR Novi Sad” established a successful cooperation with the company Amadeus, a leading Global Distribution System and the biggest processor of travel bookings in the world, within Amadeus’ new integrated solution for insurance policy sales – Amadeus Local Insurance Solution (LIS), available at any moment (24/7) anywhere in the world
T
hrough mutual cooperation we offer you the easy usage of Amadeus’ technology and DDOR’s safety when traveling! Shorten the time when drawing up a policy Avoid the unnecessary administration
More Information DDOR’s new travel insurance package will make sure nothing spoils your plans! You can find more information by going to our web page at www. ddor.co.rs, or calling our Customer Center at 021 480 2222. Come and visit us on Facebook!
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Easily browse various contents on a single screen Improve the sales process Complete the offer by providing your client with everything he needs, in just a few clicks. „International travel insurance“ – a new and unique product on Serbian insurance market, coming from „DDOR Novi Sad“, with the broadest range of risk coverage, offers clients a completely safe travel. This unique offer has been established in cooperation with the renowned international assistance house “Mondial Assistance”, which shall apply its longtime inter-
national experience to take care of any unforeseen circumstances, instead of the insured. At any moment DDOR clients may reach Mondial Help Center, which will provide them with all the necessary help, in the shortest time possible. DDOR travel insurance package with the assorted risk coverage includes the following insurance: “Travel Health Insurance”, “Accident Insurance”, and “Third Party Liability Insurance”, and aside from these standard risks, the additional part of travel insurance package also includes “Luggage Insurance” and “Travel Cancellation Insurance”. Any person under 85 years of age can conclude the “International Travel Insurance” package of “DDOR Novi Sad”, as an individual, family (maximum of two adults and five minors) or group package, and there is also a possibility of concluding short-term or annual insurance (for an unlimited number of travels, provided a single travel lasts up to 45 days). Should a situation arise that requires an emergency intervention, one should call the Help Center of the assistance house Mondial (021/450 456 or 011/228 4147) as soon as possible and act in line with the operator’s instruction. If you want a travel that is free from unpleasant situations or situations that can’t be resolved, then the “International Travel Insurance” of “DDOR Novi Sad” is the right choice for you.
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THE REPUBLIC OF SERBIA THE COLLEGE OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT School of Vocational Studies Belgrade, Kneza Višeslava 70, Tel.: + 381 11 25 43 972, Fax: +381 11 2547 884, www.vhs.edu.rs SCHOOL OF CHAMPIONS – Successful owner GRAND PRIX – cup for the best school in the Balkans Greece, Thessaloniki 2011 – The school with the most trophies at the International Fair of Food, Drinks and Gastronomic Equipment (HELEXPO-DETROP) in Thessaloniki, from March 11 to 13, 2011. Four students (Dragana Praščević, Igor Belošević, Aleksandar Vinogradov and Nenad Milosavljević) = 11 medals (2 gold, 4 silver and 5 bronze) and the Cup for the best school in the Balkans.
Theory, practice and travel! At the European competition of tourism and hotel management schools, member of AEHT (Association Europeenne des Ecoles d’Hotellerie et de Tourisme – Diekirch, Luxemburg) the Netherlands, the Hague, in October 2011, our students won 3 medals: Milica Pilčević – silver, Jovana Ilić – bronze and Dušan Todić – bronze. At regional competitions in 2011 (Balkan Culinary Cup in Belgrade, “Culinary and pastry arts Pan – Hellenic competition” Thessaloniki, International Tourism Fair Budva and “Pearl of the Sea“ – Brač) our gastronomy students won 59 medals. At the World Culinary Championship Waks in 2011 in Luxemburg, our students – members of the representation of Serbia, placed third. Exactly this part of traveling and comparing strengths with colleagues from around the world is one of the most exciting parts of their studies and memories for life. International success of our students is the greatest success of the School and it represents the confirmation of QUALITY of education one can obtain in it.
The following students already have international career and success! HOTEL MANAGERS, GASTRONOMY EXPERTS, RESTAURANT MANAGERS Goran Kovačević – the best chef in 2003, and vice-champion of Great Britain in 2005, gold medal in Italy 2007, Petar Gajić – golden chef at the Balkan Championship in 2005, and several bronze medals at the International Gastronomy Festival in Istanbul in 2006 and 2007. Nikola Bušić – gold for flambé in Italy 2007, Lajoš Čaki – gold for confectionery in Italy 2007, Jadranka Suljić – silver for reception in Italy 2007, Marko Tošić – bronze for cocktails in Italy 2007, Marija Miladinović – silver for “House keeping and room service“, Estonia 2008, Milan Lekić – gold for confectionery, Estonia 2008, bronze Greece 2009, Aleksandar Stanković – gold for cooking – Greece in 2009, 2 gold medals in Bulgaria 2010, Danijel Marković – silver for cooking, Greece 2009, Branislav Krstić – bronze for cooking, Greece 2009, Vanja Puškar – bronze for cooking, Greece 2009, Slobodan Čavić – silver for confectionery, Greece 2009, Lazarević Nevena – the best “freshman” in hotel management, Italy 2010, Vlada Stojanov – the best “freshman” in hotel management, Italy 2010, Boško Damjanac – 2 gold medals, Bulgaria 2010, Lazar Brkić – 3 gold medals, Bulgaria 2010,
Milan Malbaša – 2 gold medals, Bulgaria 2010, Jovica Jovanović – gold, Bulgaria 2010, Mina Majstorović – gold for wine swerving, Portugal 2010, Dragana Praščević – 3 gold, 6 silver, bronze medals, Greece, Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, 2011, Igor Belošević – 5 silver and 5 bronze medals, Greece, Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, 2011, Nenad Milosavljević – silver and bronze, Greece 2011, Aleksandar Vinogradov – 2 silver and 2 bronze, Greece, 2011 and Serbia 2011, Milica Pilčević – silver, the Netherlands, 2011, Jovana Ilić – bronze, the Netherlands, 2011, Dušan Todić – bronze, the Netherlands, 2011 and 1 silver, Serbia 2011, Aleksandar Ilić – 3 silver, 4 bronze, Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, 2011, Nikola Biševac – gold, silver, bronze – Serbia, Montenegro, 2011, Milan Nedić – silver, Serbia 2011, Ričard Kleš – silver, Serbia 2011, Luca Rac Sabo – silver, bronze, Serbia 2011, Aleksandar Pavlović – silver, Serbia 2011, Nemanja Luković – silver, Serbia 2011, Tanis Imširević – silver, Serbia 2011.
BELGRADE STUDENT HEALTH AND FINANCIAL SUPPORT SOCIETY in cooperation with the Ministry of Education and Science and Institution Student Resort Belgrade issues to students the following
ANNOUNCEMENT WE HEREBY INFORM YOU THAT THE MINISTRY OF EDUCATION AND SCIENCE PUBLISHED AN OPEN CALL FOR REST AND RECUPERATION OF STIUDENTS IN 2011/2012 ACADEMIC YEAR IN INSTITUTION STUDENT RESORT BELGRADE WITH THE FOLLOWING UNITS: 1. “RATKO MITROVIĆ” ON ZLATIBOR, AND
2.”RADOJKA LAKIĆ” ON AVALA
THE RIGHT TO PARTICIPATE IN THE OPEN CALL HAVE STUDENTS WHO MEET THE FOLLOWING REQUIREMENTS: 1) Students of institutions of higher education the founder of which is the Republic of Serbia, Autonomous Province or a local self-government unit,
NECESSARY DOCUMENTATION: 1) Application for the open call (to be taken at ZPU) with Form no. 2,. with information relevant for the open call (issued at ZPU, and certified at the University) or
2) Who have enrolled for the first time in the current academic year in the first, second or third level study programs,
2) Certificate of passed examinations during studies until October 31, 2011, which must specify the number of remaining examinations in the course of studies,
3) Whose education is financed from the budget of the Republic of Serbia,
3) Grade point average from all years of high school (only for freshmen),
4) Who are citizens of the Republic of Serbia, i.e. citizens of a regional country and foreign citizens in accordance with the law.
4) Certificate of enrollment in the semester of the given year of study.
OPEN CALL DOCUMENTATION IS TO BE SUBMITTED TO ZPU OF STUDENTS OF THE COMPETENT UNIVERSITY CENTRE. THE DECISION ON THE RIGHT TO VACATION AND RECUPERATION SHALL BE MADE BY THE COMMITTEE OF THE MINISTRY OF EDUCATION AND SCIENCE STUDENTS WILL PARTICIPATE IN FINANCING THE COSTS OF VACATION, I.E. RECUPERATION. STUDENTS WILL HAVE THE RIGHT TO HAVE VACATION IN A PERIOD OF SEVEN DAYS, I.E. RIGHT TO RECUPERATION FOR A PERIOD OF 10 DAYS ONCE A YEAR (EXCEPTIONALLY, RECUPERATION CAN BE USED TWICE A YEAR WITH A CERTIFICATE OF THE COMPETENT HEALTHCARE ORGANIZATION). Belgrade Student Health and Financial Support Society Balkanska 4/I, Belgrade Telephone: 011/2688 994, 2681 724 web: www.zpubeograd.com E-mail: zpu_bgd@yahoo.com
Student Health and Financial Support Society in Niš Šumatovačka 66, Niš Telephone: 018/523 127 E-mail: zpu_nis@yahoo.com
Student Health and Financial Support Society in Novi Sad Železnička 9, Novi Sad Telephone: 021/6350 475 E-mail: zpuns@eunet.rs
Student Health and Financial Support Society in Kragujevac Jovana Cvijića 1, Kragujevac Telephone: 034/343 410 E-mail: zpuskg@yahoo.com
HTP TREND KORALI Obala Iva Novakovića bb, Sutomore, Montenegro Sales: +382 30 37 37 20, Reception: +382 30 301 900 E-mail: prodaja.trendkorali@t-com.me, pajovic.htptrendkorali@gmail.com Web: www.trendkorali-montenegro.com
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