Year XI • special edition, 2017 • free copy www.nacionalnarevija.com
TOURISM 2017 IMAGES AND APPEARANCES
A collage TV show about Serbia, its landscapes and people, cities and customs, cultural and historical heritage and economic and tourist potentials. Travel writings, portraits, lectures, melodies. The most beautiful from Serbia, knowingly and with love! > First Channel of Radio Television of Serbia (RTS 1), Fridays from 14:00
Cetinjska 6, 11000 Belgrade +381 11 322 16 92 www.nacionalnarevija.com •
P R O L O G U E
GRAND TOUR AND ITS GOLDEN HERITAGE
Publisher “Princip Pres” Cetinjska 6, 11000 Belgrade Tel.: +381 (11) 322 70 34, 322 16 92 www.nacionalnarevija.com princip.press@gmail.com Director and Editor-in-Chief Mišo Vujović Editor Branislav Matić Technical Editor Aleksandar Ćosić Photography Editor Dragan Bosnić Header and cover design Jovan Željko Rajačić Associates Milovan Vitezović, jerej Jovan Plamenac, Bojan Mandić, Dragan Lakićević, Nebojša Jevrić, Olga Vukadinović, Jovo Bajić, Dejan Bulajić, Petar Milatović, Vlada Arsić, Dejan Đorić, Đorđe Srbulović, Mihail Kulačić, Milena Z. Bogavac, Rozana Sazdić, Vojislav Filipović, Saša Šarković, Zoran Plavšić, Hristina Plamenac, Dragana Barjaktarević
Know How to Travel B
ack in the day, history, epics and geographical articles were kind of travel books. Let us remember Herodotus, Odyssey, Pausanias. Biographies of medieval saints also contain strong elements of travelogue, just like in Western descriptions of the Crusades. Let us not forget the famous journeys of the 14th century, such as Polo’s. Or the imaginary ones in the novels of Defoe and Swift, or sentimental ones like Stern’s. Grand Tour, in the 18th and the first half of the 19th century becomes a special social and cultural phenomenon in Europe. It has its own literature and poetry, its culture and initiation code, its educational and formative meaning. It lasted from a few months to several years. According to the thought-through plan, members of the elite of European nations, from Britain to Russia, traveled to the important cities of ancient, medieval and Renaissance civilization and culture. They had educated guides, they studied, wrote diaries and letters, collected and brought back souvenirs. Grand Tour meant an important Schonbrunn, Vienna
Translated by Sandra Gagić & “Globe Translations“ Marketing Mirko Vujović Secretariat and placement Dragana Dimitrijević, Milenko Vasilić Print “Portal”, Belgrade Office for Srpska “Princip Pres RS” Nikole Pašića 1, 78000 Banjaluka Tel/Fax: +387 (51) 304 360 Office for Australia “Princip Press Australia PTY LTD”, 12/24 Loch Street, 3182 St Kilda West, VIC
Cover page: On the surface of the Dead Sea (Photo: Archive of NR. Design: J. Ž. Rajačić) Magazine registered in the Register of Public Media of the Republic Serbia, no. NV000385
ISSN 1452-8371 = Serbia - National Review COBISS.SR-ID 139201804
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transformation and crossing the threshold of maturity. Only after it, a member of the elite was considered ready for great achievements. Let us remember the great journey of Byron and Wilde, Goethe and Nietzsche, Peter the Great and Dostoevsky. Or Dositej Obradović, Sima Sarajlija, Ljuba Nenadović... We were reminded of many of these important things by the book The Grand Tour of Nјegoš by prof. Dr. Saša Brajović. This memory also gave rise to great Serbian travel books of the 20th century, such as those by Dučić, Crnjanski, Isidora Sekulić, Stevan Pešić, Miodrag Pavlović. Since the mid-19th century changed, the nature and technology of travel have been changing. They get down to the lower social strata and motives, become cheaper and more accessible, faster and for a greater number of people. Today, in the era of masses, the purpose of traveling for many has become to be out there and make a selfie and post it on Facebook as soon as possible. Or to reduce it to pettybourgeois shopping and splashing in the shallow waters of the mind. But it should not and does not have to be that way. It depends on us. That is why we remind you of this golden legacy of the Grand Tour.
SRBIJA SPECIJALNO IZDAWE 2017.
CONTENTS Panorama 04 PROLOGUE: KNOW HOW TO TRAVEL 06 ALBUM: UNDER THE SUN
Road Sign 12 FRAME: FAIR 2017 16 REACHES: TOS 22 THE HOST: TOB 28 GUIDE: LESKOVAC 32 ROADS: NEW IN SRPSKA 36 CAPITAL: MOSCOW 46 DESTINATIONS: MONACO 52 BANKS: EMPURIABRAVA 60 VISIT: SOUTH AFRICA 72 DEPTHS: THE RED SEA
Introducing 80 NOTES: SAŠA JOVANOVIĆ 84 GATHERINGS: KOPAONIK BEAUTY 86 HEALTH: “MERKUR” 88 STUDIES: BELGRADE BUSINESS SCHOOL 92 EXAMPLES: INSTITUTE FOR SORT Partners of the Publication:
INSTITUTION OF STUDENTS VACATION BELGRADE
MUNICIPALITY OF РУМА
VRNJAČKA BANJA
THE BELGRADE BUSINESS SCHOOL
Media partners:
RTS - PUBLIC SERVICE OF SERBIA
РАДИО ТЕЛЕВИЗИЈА ВОЈВОДИНЕ
RTV VOJVODINA - PUBLIC SERVICE
NEWSPAPER SERBIAN PATRIARCHY
THIS MAGAZINE IS PRINTED WITH SUPPORT FROM THE MINISTRY OF CULTURE SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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A L B U M
The Vračar Plateau and a house in Stari Grad, Belgrade (Photo: Svetlana Dingarac)
NEW GREAT PUBLISHING VENTURE OF “PRINCIP PRES”
Under the Sun
“T
his is an unusual country. One would think, as Tjutčev did for his country, that this country cannot be understood, it could only be loved. ‘Serbia is a big mystery. A country of border guards, in between worlds. The house in the middle of the road. The tower of holy warriors. The poem among nations. Yarn of the most ancient memories. This sun in our eyes, this bread on the palm of our hand.‘ This is how Serbia is described by its poets, in whom the drama and beauty of Serbian area, Serbian destiny, echoes deeply.” These sentences lead us to the monograph Serbia, Under the Sky, a new major project of the Belgrade publishing company “Princip Pres”. This book, which is coming soon, in separate editions in four languages, leads us through the hidden pathways of Balkan antiquity, through the Celtic and Roman times, the golden Middle Ages, the era of slavery and darkness, to the resurrection in the 19th century, liberation and to our century. It leads us to pilgrimages, reads landscapes and cities, “the creator’s most beautiful handwriting”, telling stories from the road. Reveals the most unusual of all Serbian lands, where even the darkness learns to shine. Introduces the humor that runs on the ground, and its shadow of the sky. Gives geopoetic and character typology of the Serbian home country. Brings us before great Serbian visionaries and famous foreigners who have left immortal pages to the glory of Serbia. “All this is the same testimony and the same song, Serbia under the sun. Like a beautiful antique song with multiple voices.” Of course, all this is supported by some of the greatest masters of photography in Serbia. In expectation of the book, we bring, as an illustration and announcement, just a few examples from the repository of photographs prepared for it. To the joy and comfort in difficult times. (B. M.)
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A L B U M Church in Vodena Polјana, on Zlatar (Photo: Svetlana Dingarac)
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Below Rtanj, near Bolјevac (Photo: Stanoje Radulović)
Summer on thw aterfall (Photo: Želјko Sinobad)
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A L B U M On the Old Mountain (Photo: Josip Šarić)
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F R A M E
39th INTERNATIONAL TOURISM FAIR IN BELGRADE
Richness of Diversity
More than 1,100 exhibitors from 56 countries, diverse and multimedia methods of presentation, great business and user possibilities, along with the full range of colors, scents, tunes, destinations, types of tourism, make this great event an important one on the map of the European tourism industry. This year, the Chinese National Tourism Agency will present its potentials for the first time, as well as regions of the Russian Federation. Serbia will also present its tourist trump cards thoughtfully, expecting a continuation of the trends of growth
T
he greatest tourist event in Southeast Europe – the 39th International Tourism Fair in Belgrade, will take place from 23 to 26 February 2017, pod under the slogan “Enjoy on Time”. In six exhibition halls of Belgrade Fair, the most important tourist agencies, as-
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sociations and organizations, tourist centers, hotels, mountain centers, spa resorts, lakes, cities, regions, airlines, international tour operators from all continents will present themselves. They will offer visitors tour packages for the upcoming tourist season.
At the exclusive fair prices, the visitors will be able to choose from the wide range of trips, according to their affinities. First minute offers and packages with lots of benefits will bring attractive opportunities for relaxation in the summer season, and there are also tour packages for the current winter season, for rest and recuperation in spa and mountain resorts, as well as the always current spa weekends or exotic destinations, city break offer and congress events. More than 1,100 exhibitors from 56 countries participate at the fair, and the partner country of this year’s Tourism Fair is Montenegro. Thanks to its geographical location, the sea and mountains, this country is suitable for holidays and tourism throughout the year. The stand of the partner country, Montenegro, is located in Hall 1. Of course, a number of other countries will also present themselves, such as Greece, Egypt, Macedonia, Turkey, Slovenia, Bulgaria, India, Hungary, Tunisia, Germany... For the first time this year, the Chinese National Tourism Agency will present its potentials (hall 3, stand 3001) and regions of the Russian Federation.
As the host country of the Tourism Fair, Serbia will offer its tourist attractions: natural beauty and cultural and historical attractions, beautiful mountains, spa resorts, rivers, lakes, various facilities for holiday, entertainment, health recovery, sport, recreation, adventure... Serbian Tourist offer, seasoned with its famous hospitality, culinary and other temptations, lifestyle in the spirit of charming lightness, humor and warmth, year after year has been attracting increasing number of foreign and domestic guests. It is expected that this growth trend will be confirmed at this year’s Tourism Fair in Belgrade. Thanks to the tourist vouchers of the Government of Serbia for staying in local tourist centers, the development of domestic tourism will be further stimulated this year. There are more than 60,000 vouchers available to people now, and at the Tour-
Time-table Working hours of the International Tourism Fair in Belgrade will be: Thursday (23 February) from 10 to 6 PM:, Friday (24) and Saturday (25 February) from 10 to 7 PM, Sunday (26 February) from 10 to 5 PM. SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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F R A M E
Wine, Equipment, Souvenirs As one of the most successful events of its kind in the Balkans, the International Tourism Fair in Belgrade brings together and promotes all branches of the tourist industry, organizing at the same time another three events, which are now, in scope and number of participants, even more substantial than in previous years. These are: the eighth International Wine Fair Beowine (in Halls 2B and 3A), the thirteenth International Fair of Hotel and Catering Equipment “Horeca – Equipment” (in Hall 2, level C and Hall 3A) and the thirteenth Souvenir Fair “Visit Serbia” (Hall 4).
ism Fair they will also be able to apply for vouchers and directly submit applications at the stand of “Serbian Post” in Hall 4. FROM SERBIA, WITH CHARM AND CREATIVITY The Tourist Organization of Serbia will present the rich tourist offer its country in Hall 4 (stand 4055) through the film 52 Weekends in Serbia, which has the message: “Welcome to Serbia, a country that offers exciting nature, cities that never sleep, peace and quiet of gentle villages, rich cultural heritage, unforgettable entertainment, diverse culinary offer and friendly hosts”. In cooperation with the Regional Development Agency of Zlatibor, the TOS
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will present its mobile application Audio Guide through Serbia, which presents the tourist offer of the country, classified in appropriate categories, enriched with audio materials. Brochure 52 Flavors of Serbia will inform the visitors of the Tourism Fair about the cuisine of the host country and culinary events through 27 regions, and Catalog of Rural Tourist Households will present a redesigned tourist map of Serbia. The tourist organization of the Serbian capital appears at the Tourism Fair with its program The New Face of Belgrade, presenting various segments of the tourist offer for 2017. As part of the promotion of tourist sightseeing programs, on its exhibition area the TOB will display a helicopter for sightseeing, and on this occasion, prize game “Meet Belgrade” will be organized for the visitors. Exceptional multimedia side program at the Tourism Fair will provide the visitors with a memorable tourist experience. Numerous festivals and important events will be promoted in an attractive way, and presentations, promotions and tastings, with variety of cultural and geopoetic diversity, make the fair attractive both for business visitors and the general public.
INSTITUTION STUDENTS’ RESORT “BELGRADE”
Business Unit “Ratko Mitrović” on Zlatibor It includes several high category facilities, built in the 1980’s and 1990’s. They were rebuilt and refurbished in accordance with modern standards. They are only a half kilometer away from the center of Zlatibor, in beautiful pinetree forest, and they offer exceptional conditions for rest and recreation. There is great interest among students for staying here. They also offer services to external customers. The complex consists of four facilities:
Villa “Srbija”,
On a surface area of 2.015 square meters, with 39 beds. It has a restaurant with 250 seats (four stars), seminar room with 50 seats, and summer garden with 150 seats.
Villa “Lovćen”,
On a surface area of 3.238 square meters, with 141 beds.
Villa “Zlatibor”,
On a surface area of 1.276 square meters, with 88 beds, with sports fitness club.
Villa “Romanija”,
Congress center, with two rooms with 250 seats each, surface area of 1.920 square meters, and with 58 beds. 031 841 369 •
Ulica sportova bb, 31315 Zlatibor 031 841 791 • recepcija.zlatibor@usob.rs • www.usob.rs
R E A C H E S
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THE TOURIST ORGANIZATION OF SERBIA CONTINUES IMPORTANT BREAKTHROUGHS IN THE COUNTRY AND ABROAD
Marked by Continued Growth
Serious research has been conducted on attitudes, habits and needs of domestic and foreign guests in Serbian tourist centers. On this basis, tourism products are created, the offer is improved, marketing tools selected. Results are there. The number of visitors is growing, the duration of their stay is extended, foreign currency inflow is increased... However, a lot more should be done in all areas. Serbia is still an insufficiently discovered gem in the heart of Europe
P
opularity of Serbia as a tourist destination has been undoubtedly growing year after year. This is reflected in very encouraging statistical data and conducted research. Despite the growing number of visitors, Serbia is still an insufficiently discovered gem in the heart of Europe. Therefore, the Tourist Organization of Serbia has been investing great efforts in order to find the most appropriate ways to present the country to those who are not familiar with its offer, and also to bring it closer to those who know it.
Every communication strategy has Gamzigrad and been conceptualized by the TOS in order Novi Sad (Photo: to present Serbia as a country of friend- Branko Jovanović ly, hospitable, joyful and temperamenand Dragan tal people, with sport spirit, a country of Vidović) beautiful nature and spectacular landscapes, millennia of cultural and historical heritage, rich tradition, and certainly one of the points on the world map that tourists should experience. European bicycle and pedestrian routes pass through Serbia, as well as pan-Euro- Marija Labović, Director pean cultural routes (such as the “Road of of the TOS Roman Emperors”, “Danube Wine Road”, SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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R E A C H E S
Žiča Monastery (Photo: Branko Jovanović) Raspberry picking in Serbia (Photo: Dragan Vidović)
“Transromanica”)... Its small towns – like Knjaževac, Pirot, Novi Pazar and Sjenica – are on the list of outstanding destinations of Europe. Vacation, relaxation, research and exploring the diversity of Serbia are inconceivable without a good tourist infrastructure and attractive offers that is the cornerstone of tourism development. The diversity of Serbia is reflected in its lively cities, popular festivals, modern tourist resorts and hotels, spa resorts and ethno complexes, authentic villages, great food... It is just part of the wealth with which Serbia attracts, surprises, even delights the travelers and guests. FROM SERBIA TO SERBIA The inspire tourist dustry
results achieved in the past year pride. Representatives of local organizations, Serbian tourist inand all stakeholders are actively
For a Holiday in Serbia The Tourist Organization of Serbia has promoted the incentive of the Serbian Government for holiday in the country through subsidized vouchers. It has created two mobile applications – the first “Audio Guide through Serbia” intended for transit guests, and “52 Weekends in Serbia”. It has successfully implemented two major media campaigns: “My Serbia” and “Serbia – Everything I love”. It has conducted, for the first time, research on the attitudes and behavior of domestic tourists, and on that basis it has created its activities using the most advanced marketing and promotional tools.
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involved in the creation of an improved tourist environment in Serbia. The number of domestic and foreign tourists has increased, as well as the number of overnight stays and the foreign currency inflow from tourism. Successful campaigns of the Tourist Organization of Serbia have certainly contributed to this. In the local market, the TOS had numerous activities. It opened another tourist information center and souvenir shop in Belgrade, successfully organized the Caravan “My Serbia” (with precious assistance of local tourist organizations) and in this way promoted opportunities for a quality holiday of domestic guests in thirteen Serbian cities, organized major events such as the “Tourist Forum” (gathering of representatives of the tourist industry) and “Tourist Flower” (traditional presentation of the highest awards in tourism). With its appearances at major events around the country, the TOS has helped in promotion of local tourist offers. It supported the activities of the Ministry of Trade, Tourism and Telecommunications on improvement of transit tourism by designing appropriate tourist signage, working with 20 local tourist organizations from Šumadija, Morava and Rasina county, as well as with the Regional Development Agency of Zlatibor. – The measure the Serbian government to stimulate domestic tourism by
giving out of vouchers has given excellent results. The number of domestic tourists who spent their vacation in Serbia has increased and the duration of their stay has been significantly prolonged – says Marija Labović, director of the Tourist Organization of Serbia. – With its promotional activities, the TOS has made a great contribution to this campaign, presenting to the citizens destinations in Serbia that are not behind tourist destinations in other countries. This campaign of the competent ministry was continued in 2017. The subsidized vouchers were commonly used in Lukovska and Prolom Banja. There was also significant interest in mountain resorts, notably Kopaonik and Divčibare. – In 2017, the campaign will last until 15 October, and the list of available restaurants and accommodation facilities is updated every Friday – adds Marija Labović. – Interest of tourist centers to participate in this has also increased. By now, there are 273 establishment’s registered, mostly from Sokobanja (61) Ribarska Banja (40), Vrnjačka Banja (37), Zlatibor (28) and Kopaonik (17). In 201, 650 accommodation facilities applied for the vouchers, and the Tourist Organization of Serbia motivates the operators to offer additional benefits to voucher holders.
The Old Mountain (Photo: Miloš Milenković)
IMPORTANT INTERNATIONAL BREAKTHROUGHS – The TOS presented the offer of Serbia in 2016 at 23 international tourism fairs around the world –director Labović continues. – I would single out very successful presentations at fairs in London and Beijing. We organized the arrival of 130 foreign journalists and news crews. In addition to regularly informing the public, this has ensured that Serbia is presented as a tourist destination in 1,450 newspaper, television, radio and online reports. Only after the appearance in China, in as many as 530 presentations in well-known Chinese media Serbia was recommended as a destination to Chinese visitors. Through the cooperation with the most famous publishers of guidebooks, Serbia was presented in publications EyeWitness and Polyglot. Also, the closer cooperation with the national airline “Air Serbia” has provided the promotion of the country
The Danube, 588 Impressions Various promotional activities of the Tourist Organization of Serbia have been recognized abroad. For example, promotional tourism film “The Danube in Serbia –588 Impressions”, which celebrates the beauty of the Danube on its flow through Serbia, has so far won eleven international awards and was proclaimed one of the ten best tourism films in the world in 2016.
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R E A C H E S in destinations to which new routes were established new. The route Belgrade-New York has opened the door for us to intensify activities in the US market. After a long time, the Tourist Organization of Serbia conducted a research of All photographs: attitudes and behavior of foreign guests Archive of TOS-a who choose Serbia for their vacation. The data is currently being processed. According to the first results, foreign tourists most frequently use websites (64 percent) as a source of information on destinations. Most notable among these sources are booking.com, “Google”, “Wikipedia”, www.tripadvisor.com, www.lonelyplanet. com, social networks (“Facebook” and “Instagram”), websites of the TOS-a and local tourist destinations. In general, as much as 94.7 percent of foreign tourists expressed satisfaction with their trips to Serbia. – It is these results that have reassured us in the idea to focus our activities in 2017 on e-marketing campaigns and other digital activations, with a strong presence in social networks – says Marija Labović. – In addition, in 2017 we will cooperate even more closely with domestic and foreign media. We will plan all the activities by relying on the strategy for the competent Ministry and application of the incentives The Drina near Bajina Bašta of the Government of Serbia to improve domestic tourism. (Photo: Nenad Marić) ACROSS THE OCEAN The Tisa near Mol (Photo: Lazar Lazić)
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In January and February 2017, the Tourist Organization of Serbia presented
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the Serbian tourist offer at international tourism fairs CMT in Stuttgart, ITF Slovakia Tour in Bratislava, EMITT in Istanbul, “Destinations” in London, “Holiday & Spa Expo” in Sofia... – We should single out the appearance at the fair “New York Times Travel Show” in New York, organized in cooperation with “Air Serbia” – we are told by director Labović. – Serbia was promoted at the stand of the European Travel Commission, of which the TOS is a member. Also very well received was our participation at the panel “Undiscovered Destinations of Europe”, which has drawn considerable attention on Serbia as a tourist destination. After the fair, at the headquarters of the Diplomatic Mission of Serbia to the UN the space of great historical and artistic value, Serbian tourism was presented to the selected number of people from tourist industry and representatives of the media in New York. There was a photo exhibition of the most beautiful motifs of Serbia, promotional films were presented, and there was a tasting of Serbian wines and culinary specialties... – All this was especially prepared for the American media and professionals in the field of organizing travel. Considerable interest was expressed, especially in the Serbian cultural and historical heritage and natural beauty. The fact that there is a direct flight from New York to Belgrade makes Serbia considerably closer to this choosy market. Of course, in during 2017, will continue the intensive promotional activities in the US market.
MUNICIPALITY SRBOBRAN
Trg slobode 2, 21480 Srbobran 021 730 020, 731 077 www.srbobran.rs, info@srbobran.rs
T H E
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RECORD YEAR IN THE TOURISM IN THE CAPITAL OF SERBIA
The New Face of Belgrade
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A million tourists, the ninety fifth hotel opened, 535 large tourist ships docked, 98% of capacities filled around the New Year’s, leading position in the category of business and congress tourism, central point of networking of the former Yugoslav states with the overseas markets... These are some of the indicator of the significant growth of Belgrade tourism in the past three years. At this year’s Tourism Fair in Belgrade, the Tourist Organization of Belgrade will present the tourist offer for 2017 and its new promotional ventures
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Д ОМ АЋ И Н
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n Belgrade in 2016, there were close to a million registered tourists and two million overnight stays, which are record figures. In just three years, significant parameters of success of Serbian capital as a tourist destination have almost doubled. In addition to the number of guests registered in accommodation facilities, last year 535 cruise ships with 66,387 tourists docked in Belgrade, which is also at a record level. In 2016, there were nearly two million overnight stays, of which foreign guests realized a 14 percent increase over the previous year. According to a survey conducted before the New Year holidays, the occupancy rate of accommodation facilities in the central city municipalities was 98 percent. These days, the ninety fifth hotel was opened in Belgrade, and now there are 30 percent more of them than just three
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years ago. Most of the new hotels are with four-stars, and they have announced the opening of new ones from well-known global chains, which will make Belgrade able to respond to the highest demands of the modern tourist market. Thanks to new investments in urban and tourism infrastructure, Belgrade has in recent years profiled itself as a regional leader in the category of business and congress tourism. By opening new routes of the national airline “Air Serbia”, including a direct flight to New York, Belgrade has become a central point for networking of the entire region with overseas markets. FAIR FLY OVER BELGRADE
The Belgrade Tourism Fair is the largest tourism event in the region in terms of number of exhibitors and the number of participating countries and visitors. As SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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Friend Cities With respect to the good results in tourism turnover, after a successful promotional campaign Go Belgrade in the cities of the region, the Tourist Organization of Belgrade will, during the Fair, bring together the “friend cities” and in this way announce the continuation of the campaign in 2017.
Photo: Archive of the TOB
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such, it is the most important tourist event for the promotion of tourist values of Belgrade, a city which is the largest outbound market in Serbia. It is expected that the visitors of the fair, in addition to foreign guests, business people and tour operators from abroad, will also be guests from Serbia interested in the offer of Belgrade, as well as Belgraders to whom the offer of our country will be presented. The appearance of Tourist Organization of Belgrade at the thirty ninth Belgrade Tourism Fair was conceived as a promotion of tourist offer of the current capital for 2017, under the slogan “The
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New Face of Belgrade”. The exhibition area of the TOB will display the offer of Belgrade municipalities. Offer for short city break in Belgrade will be promoted through the calendar of events for this year, as well as the cultural, entertainment and culinary offer, which are the main motives for coming here. Of big sport events, special attention will be paid to the upcoming European Indoor Championships in Athletics, which will this year in Belgrade bring together a large number of participants, fans and admirers of athletics, as well as Belgrade marathon which has been organized for 30 years despite the difficulties through which are going both the City and the Marathon. As a curiosity this year, a helicopter will be displayed at the stand, within the promotion of new tourist program: sightseeing of Belgrade from the air. On this occasion, there will be a prize game for the visitors entitled “Meet Belgrade”.
G U I D E
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ANOTHER TOURIST SEASON IN LESKOVAC WAS ANNOUNCED
The Incessant Attraction
The city of fairs and crafts, gourmet specialties and textiles, trade fairs and cosmetics, until the USBritish “Allied bombing” in September 1944 was one of the biggest and wealthiest in Serbia. In addition to all its other old symbols, today it is also recognizable for its ancient and medieval cultural and historical heritage, “Roštilјijada” Barbeque Festival, Carnival, “The Fire of the South”, Toma Zdravković, aromatic red peppers... All this together makes Leskovac one of the real Serbian tourist brands Text and photo: the Tourist Organization of Leskovac
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his city, the center of the Serbian south, has a long history. Even in Roman times there was a settlement here. In the neighborhood of Leskovac, the early Byzantine Emperor Justinian was born and here, in his own country, he built the city of Justiniana Prima (The Empress’s Town). 858 years ago, Byzantine Emperor Manuel Komnenos ceded the district of Dubočice to Serbian mayor Stefan Nemanja. 669 years ago, Serbian Emperor Dušan donated to Hilandar the place where Leskovac and the surrounding areas are located. 643 years ago, this area became part of the states of Serbian Prince Lazar. (...) History was rich here, but it did not spare the city or its inhabitants. Leskovac was destroyed several times, and the worst so in the US-British bombing on 6 September 1944. And just before World War Two, the city reached its economic peak and its “golden age”, which today people remember and hope it would return. Then, in the city and the surrounding areas there were over 40 percent of the entire textile industry in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, as well as a number of other production plants, for example in metallurgy, cosmetics, rubber and milling industry, the production of beer, edible oil... Leskovac was called Serbian Manchester, and the sparkling people of Leskovac still brag about this. At that time,
the city had 110 streets, 105 taverns, 375 shopping outlets, five bookstores... After heavy war destruction, unnecessary by military reasons and brutal, it was necessary to start from scratch. Today it is a modern city, the seat of the Jablanica District, and with the Southern charm it carries its history, its wounds and medals. Since 2007, it has the status of the city. Leskovac itself has a population of more than 60,000, and the entire administrative area of the city close to 145,000. Presumably, the name Leskovac comes from the word leska, which means hazel tree, from the former large hazel, or hazelnut woods. Guidebooks call Leskovac the Balkan capital of the best barbecue. It is famous for its carnival, festivals, “the fire of the South”, a fragrant red pepper. Also interesting is the cultural and historical heritage of this city and the region. All this together is the backbone of Leskovac tourism offer
Carnival and “Roštilјijada” in Leskovac
The Famous Bite Delicacies of Dragi Bure were tasted by many celebrities, statesmen, diplomats, including the British Queen, Brezhnev, Carter, Nixon... He learned the trade in his family barbeque shop “Bure”, which was always full, and it only served ćevapčići, kebabs and sausages. It did not serve drinks, but people brought drink from other taverns. The formula is simple: excellent meat and pure charcoal.
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Summer Festival “Leskovac Summer” is a festival that started about twenty years ago. At the time of summer holidays, programs take place over twenty days. Guests are the great writers, painters, actors, musicians. The city is bursting with enjoyment. So are its guests. The same will be this year. st Tattoo and body and in the 21 century, with many modern art at the Carnival upgrades and refinement, of course. of Leskovac CENTURIES OF BARBECUE TRADITION
Already in the 18th century, travel writers mention ćevapčići as extraordinary delicacies that they had tasted in Leskovac. The best of them were made by butcher and innkeeper Mita Gligorijević, grandfather of Miodrag Gligorijević Bure, the king Leskovac barbecue. The stunts of Dragi Bure impressed people around the world, at numerous international culinary exhibitions: in Munich, Frankfurt, Vienna, Stresa, the world exhibitions in Brussels and Montreal. From 1965 to 1969, the fa mous Leskovac school of barbecue was active (later reopened). From it and the long tradition of Leskovac hospitality, upon the idea of Dragi Bure, the “Roštiljijada” Barbecue Festival was born in Leskovac. The first took place back in 1965, but was disconti nued after only two years. It came to life again in 1989. It ta kes place in late August and early September, this year, the twenty-eighth time. – The Barbecue Festival takes place in the area of the main boulevard of Leskovac – Bulevar oslobođenja, the popular broad street. Caterers mount dozens of stalls and gar dens. The basis of the offers consists, of cou rse, of grilled spe cialties: ćevapčići, burgers, sausages, pork
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steaks... The atmosphere throughout the city is excellent, with a lot of music, temperament, games – they say at the Tourist Organization of Leskovac. – There are traditional competitions of students of hospitality schools of Serbia and masters in preparing grilled specialties. “Roštilјijada” is accompanied by numerous cultural and entertainment programs, seminars, conferences, exhibitions, fairs... Indispensable are concerts of brass musicians, who are also a brand of Leskovac and southern Serbia. THE ERUPTION OF COLORS Back in 1929, during the Carnival, the inhabitants of Leskovac, most notably members of the Sokol Society “Momčilo”, organized a carnival. The Leskovac Gazette from that time reported: “The whole city was on its feet to see colorful costumes and masked faces... The procession moves according to the predefined program through almost all streets of Leskovac”. It was like this until 1939. At the time, Leskovac was one of the few carnival cities in the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Then the war came, then bleak years of disruption and ideological bans, but not everything fell into oblivion. In 2006, the Carnival was restored. For three years it was organized as a side event of “Roštilјijada”, and since 2009 it was separated and named the Carnival of Leskovac. Then, this town joined the Federation of European Carnival Cities. – The Carnival of Leskovac combines folk and modern carnival trends – they say at the Tourist Organization of Leskovac. – It is the longest in Serbia, and by the number of direct carnival events it is the largest in the region. This year, usually in July, it will be held for the twelfth time. During the six carnival evenings, there are usually about twenty carnival events and thirty side programs (concerts, performances for children and adults, art workshops and exhibitions, international workshops for making carnival masks, fashion shows...). The central event – the International Carnival Parade, with fireworks and carnival ball – is always on a Saturday. Over 1,500 people participate, in fifty carnival groups, more than a half of which are from abroad. The carnival days are seen by over 70,000 people.
Restoran
Ostrovo Sv. Naum. Ohrid Чудесно језеро, светлост, музика, охридска пастрмка и вина гостопримљивог ресторана „Острово“ и фамилије Ристески, неизбрисиво постају део вашег лепог искуства и трајног сећања.
Ресторан „Острово“, Св. Наум, 6000 Охрид | Тел.46+389 46 283 091, Моб.:+389 210 906 Ресторан Острово, Св. Наум, 6000 Охрид Tel:++389 283 091, Mob:++389 72 210 72 906;
R O A D S
“PECKA” VISITOR CENTER, NEAR MRKONJIC GRAD, MAKES IMPORTANT SHIFTS IN THE TOURIST OFFER OF THE REPUBLIC OF SRPSKA
The Value of What You Have
This center is located at the foot of the largest natural climbing wall in Srpska, near the springs of Sana and Pliva, “Zelenkovac” Eco Zone. The center is the starting and the return point for excursions, climbing, cycling, hiking on Visoka Krajina... Here you can obtain a guide and information on routes, accommodations, attractions, buy local products and organic food
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“P
ecka” Visitor Center is located in a former elementary school in the place called Gornja Pecka, municipality of Mrkonjić Grad. The school opened in 1931, and classes were held there until 1985. Afterwards, the building was not in use, and in 2013 it was completely devastated. Thanks to the project for the development of tourism “Grain Road”, which is funded by the EU, the building was renovated and put into operation. With the decision of the Municipal Assembly of Mrkonjić Grad, was awarded to a ten-year use to the organization “Greenways”, which has started the initiative for its restoration. In an interview with Bora from the association “Greenways”, the main host in this center, we find out more about the area and attractions surrounding it: – “Pecka” Visitor Center is located at the foot of the homonymous natural rock climbing area, the largest in B&H, furnished with over a hundred climbing routes. The most important nearby natural and tourist attractions are springs of the Sana River (six kilometers away), the springs of the Pliva River and Eco Zone „Zelenkovac” (at about fifteen kilometers),
while the peaks of high mountains of Krajina – Vitorog, Klekovača and Šator – are located about sixty kilometers. All this attracts a large number of visitors, especially in the spring and summer, when there is almost no weekend that no one stops by the Centre to get information. In addition to natural beauty and values, the entire area also has a great cultural and historical significance. During the Roman period, a road was passing here, and in the place of Gornja Pecka there was a settlement called Sarnade. – The center is the starting and the return point for excursions, climbing, cycling, hiking on Velika Krajina, meetings with guides... Our primary goal is to provide information to visitors about routes,
ТУРИСТИЧКА ОРГАНИЗАЦИЈА РЕПУБЛИКЕ СРПСКЕ
Photo: Archive of the TORS
The Village Pecka is one of many villages in Srpska and B&H with a dramatic trend of aging and population decline. Although they live in an almost fairytale area, unemployment and the inability to market their own products are the problem. Association “Greenways” has established an agricultural cooperative through which it will be able to more directly assist the population, by buying and drying fruits, mushrooms, berries. Members of the cooperative are from the local community.
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R O A D S tourist attractions, local food producers, accommodation – says Marić. The Visitor Center has another important function, strategic one: stimulating the development of local community through the development of tourism and agriculture. – People who visit these areas, our tar get group, have high regard for local products. Therefore, “Pecka” Visitor Center serves the local communities to sell their own products and to reach the clients, and to help the guests to come to a good product quality – says Marić. – In the Visitor Center, promotional shelves are mounted for local products, and we also purchase in the village, from local producers, for our own needs: cheese, kajmak, milk, potatoes... The development of Pecka as a tourist destination suitable for hiking, climbing, mountaineering, cycling and mushroom hunting, has created the conditions for the placement of domestic products and offer of accommodation in households. For this reason, the cooperation between the organization „Greenways” and the local community is very strong. TO REVIVE THE AREA AND MAKE PEOPLE STAY The Centre has adequate infrastructure, parking places for visitors, hospitality
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facilities. It can accommodate about twenty people, and the restaurant can host fifty. It has good quality bikes for rent, and has developed a network with a dozen bike trails for one-day rides. At the Centre they grow their own vegetables and fruits that are used in the kitchen. On the springs of the Sana River, they developed an area for camping and picnic, built benches, tables and canopies and marked hiking trails with signs. – Due to the diversity of the offer and amenities, we have many guest – Marić continues. – Of course, nature lovers are the most dominant. Pecka usually attracts mountaineers from across Srpska and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina, excursionists, typically whole families, climbers from many countries during the festival “Pecka Climbing Festival”, mushroom hunters, cyclists and others. The center has also hosted a volunteer camp with the participation of young people from France who made a huge contribution to the construction of this center. One of the important aspects of the Centre’s activities is organizing schools in nature for children of preschool and school age. Children in direct contact with nature pass through educational paths on which they raise awareness of nature conservation, importance of the production and use of organic food.
е ј и б р С и Из срж From the Core of Serbia Врхунске ракије, ограничене количине: шљивовица, кајсијевача, виљамовка, лозовача, траварица, специјална ракија са медом. Superb rakia, limited quantities: Plum rakia (shlivovitza), Apricot rakia (kajsijevacha), Pear rakia (viljamovka), Grape rakia (lozovacha), Herbal rakia (travarica), Special rakia with honey. ”Zlatan breg“ PR Vladimir Vasiljević Donja Trepča, Čačak „Златан брег“ ПР Владимир Васиљевић Доња Трепча, Чачак mail: vladimir.vasiljevic@yahoo.com тел. 063 328757
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IN “MOSCOW THE GOLDEN-HEADED”, LED BY OLD MEMORIES AND YOUNG WISHES
The Crown of the Slavic World Everything is enormous in size, yet intimate in an unusual way. Squares, buildings, parks, streets. Everything invokes greatness in a human. Metro stations are like underground palaces. Museums and galleries are an entire history of beauty. Churches are living ardor for existing God. Life here is measuring the human and the world, a road of seeking God. Numerous tourists from around the world come to this Orthodox megalopolis, impersonation of the Slavic Eurasian empire idea. They return fascinated, although sometimes they cannot explain why. And they know they have to come again By: Anastasija Mrđenović
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Photo: Aleksandar Ćosić
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Monument to Peter the Great
W
henever you come here, you will not be bored. A city of magnificent history and culture, highquality entertainment and perspective, world tourism and Orthodox Christian pilgrimage, is always open for visitors and offers the best it has. And there is really plenty of everything. From various tourist attractions and culture, wonderful places for walking, having fun, gastronomic delights, to ancient churches and monasteries. But, let’s take it slowly. One thing at a time. A BIT OF HISTORY
On the Moscow River
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Settlements from the Neolithic period were discovered all over Moscow, indicating that people had lived here already three thousand years B.C. Traces of Slavic settlements originate from the sixth century. As a city, Moscow was first mentioned in a chronicle from 1147, and the first wooden Kremlin, the fortress, was built by Prince Yuri Dolgoruky in 1156. He is considered the founder of the city. Soon after, Moscow became the center of the Russian state, and later the imperial capital. In the XVI century, Emperor Ivan the Terrible strengthened the stone fortress built two centuries earlier by Prince Dmitry Donskoy, replacing the wooden one. The Moscow Kremlin endured enemy attacks and sieges many times. At the time of the war against Napoleon, three quarters of the
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Moscow buildings were destroyed in a fire, however, despite all that, the city recovered quickly. It became a large cultural and scientific center, although from 1712 it was no longer the capital. Moscow became the political center only in 1918. During World War II, the Germans suffered one of their biggest and most crucial failures here. With its heroic defense, the capital of Russia won the battle. Old Muscovites who watched the victorious fireworks on May 9, 1945, still cannot hide excitement and tears of joy when speaking about it. MOSCOW TODAY Presently, this city, with St. George on its coat of arms, is a real international megalopolis. According to the 2016 census, its population is nearly twelve and a half million. The majority is Russian, but there are also Ukrainians, Tatars, Armenians, Azerbaijani, Jews. The main religion is Orthodox Christianity, with members of the Muslim, Buddhist, Judean, as well as many other faiths among Muscovites. Certainly, due to a great number of people, traffic jams are very common in the city. Thus an increasing number of citizens, although they have cars, choose to take the subway. The metro enables you to reach any point in Moscow very quickly. Passengers can plan exactly how long they
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Moscow Kremlin and (far right) Saint Basil’s Cathedral (16th century)
“Radisson Royal” Hotel (former “Ukraine”)
need to reach a destination. However, you can also feel the rush hours in the metro, in the transit stations, at the time people go to work (from 8 to 10 a.m.), as well as the time after working hours (from 5 to 8 p.m.). If an average Muscovite takes a car through the city, they will probable stand in several kilometers long queues during the morning and afternoon jams. However, that’s the price you pay for living in a city where everything is possible. WEATHER The Moscow climate is nice, because the air is dry, so both frost and heat are
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easy to bear. Wind is very rare. Compared to the north of Russia, Moscow has more sunny days. The most precipitation, in the form of cold rain, is in November, when the sky doesn’t change its dark grey color for days. If you can choose, it’s better to avoid visiting the capital of Russia in that month. Winters can be very snowy. The entire city then resembles a real Russian fairytale, especially with nicely decorated Christmas trees in each city square, numerous skating rinks, lamps and snowfalls. Spring is magnificent in its freshness and vegetation, beginning in April and reaching its climax on May 9. The whole city, covered with colorful tulips and fragrant lilacs, then celebrates the Victory in World War II. Summers can sometimes be hot and sunny. When it is moderate and rainy, people don’t take off their light jackets for weeks. The summer period is the right time to take a walk through parks and old streets, about which we will speak
a bit later. Autumn begins early, already in late August or early September. The temperatures drop severely during the night, and it’s not a bad idea to take an umbrella and shawl during the day. The sun still gives lots of life, but its warmth decreases. The morning air becomes particularly fresh, smells like wormwood and other bitter autumn plants. This is the right time for romantics, poets, writers, as well as people who can’t wait to go to nearby forests to pick mushrooms. If, by chance, you have such acquaintances in Moscow, be sure to join them! It is an adventure you’ll never forget! WHAT TO VISIT All tourist guides suggest curious travelers to first visit the Kremlin, Red Square, and Church of St. Basil the Blessed on that square, one of the most beautiful churches in the world. Also recommended is the
visit to the Tretyakov Gallery – a huge museum with paintings of famous Russian artists, such as Shishkin, Vasnetsov, Levitan, Bryullov, Polenov, Ayvazovsky and many others. The museum also exhibits collections of old Russian icons, including the works of famous Andrei Rublev. It is less known that a small chapel was made a few years ago in this temple of art, hosting a great sanctity and, at the same time, the most valuable museum showpiece – the Vladimir icon of Holy Mother of God. According to the church legend, the icon was painted by holy apostle Luke. It was brought from Jerusalem to Constantinople in the V century, and it was given as a gift in the XII SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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“Lomonosov” University
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century to Russian prince Mstislav by Patriarch of Constantinople Luke Chrysoberges. Of course, we recommend the same. However, besides the Gallery, you must visit other museums as well: State Historical Museum on the Red Square, “Pushkin” Museum of Fine Arts, “Timiryazev” Biology Museum, Memorial Museum of Cosmonautics, Museum of Mikhail Bulgakov, Museum-apartment of legendary Russian poet Alexander Pushkin in Stary Arbat, Polytechnic Museum, Museum of the Orient, as well as the enormous Zoo. Certainly, if possible, you should also visit Bolshoi Theater. It was closed for restoration for a long time, but now you can enjoy supreme opera and ballet performances under the arches of this magnificent theater in Moscow. WHERE TO WALK Probably everyone has heard of the main city promenade in Moscow, Stary Arbat Street, as well as the Red Square. It is our pleasure to indicate other wonderful places, not known among tourists, nice for taking a walk any time of the year. If you like nature, our first recommendation is the Main Botanical Garden “N. V. Tsitsina” of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Walkers can easily get lost in the enormous space of this botanical garden – institute, the largest in Europe, in a real empire of plants and trees. Thus it is good to study the map of the garden in advance and have it with you. Plants from all continents and all climatic zones of the planet are there. Live collections include 8.220 species. Moscow has more than twenty large parks, most of them surrounding former aristocratic estates, where you can feel the peace of the XIX century, unity with nature, beauty of the forest, glades and lakes. The princely palaces usually exhibit museum collections of old furniture, dishes, books and other artifacts of former hosts. The most famous Moscow estates with a castle (Russian “usadyba”) are Kuskovo, Kuzminsky, Trubetskoy and Tsaritsyno. There are many other wonderful parks as well, with walking paths, artificial lakes (with ducks and swans swimming), pine or birch forests (with numerous squirrels,
Cruise Don’t miss the chance to cruise the river Moscow. From the boat, you can see the Kremlin, Church of Christ the Savior, Sports Complex “Luzhniki”, old Moscow quarts, numerous churches with golden domes, after which the city was named “Moscow the Golden-Headed”. Some tours are available only from April to October and some, for example the cruise in the closed “Radisson” ship with lunch, are offered in cold periods of the year.
which can hardly wait to be fed by nuts, seeds or biscuits). Some of those parks are Ekaterininsky, Park of Culture and Leisure, Sokolniki, Hermitage Garden, Park of Art, Neskuchny Garden. FOOD Naturally, a nice, long walk is followed by a good lunch. The Russian capital has a wide offer of cafés and restaurants. It all depends on your taste, mood and, as the Russians like to say, “the size of your wallet”. There are large networks of good and not so expensive restaurants with traditional Russian cuisine (“Grabli”, “Elkipalki” and “Mu-mu”). There are several nice cafés near almost every metro station, where you can not only have a coffee or tea, but also taste wonderful cookies or try real hot chocolate. The latter is best in the “Shokoladnica” café, which preserves the old tradition of preparing this nostalgic, magical drink. If your mood and capabilities are for luxury, then be sure to stop by the “Pushkin” café. The interior is designed in baroque style, and everything is in the spirit of antiquity and beauty of Russian history. It is open 24/7 and offers the best tradition of Russian cuisine. Immediately next to it is the astonishing, two-floor “Turandot” restaurant, with dozens of lounges. There is a small, round stage in the center of the main lounge, with musicians dressed in magnificent XVIII century costumes. The stage is rotating and visitors can enjoy live music and magical harp tones, performing pieces of Mozart, Vivaldi, Bach and other classical composers. The large restaurant lounges resemble an imperial palace with blue-gold walls, luxurious antique furniture and SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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Towers and palaces of Kremlin An outlook above the Moscow River
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waiters dressed as imperial servants. The service here is supreme, thus the Moscow elite often visits “Turandot”. Prices are corresponding.
Moscow in winter
CHURCHES AND MONASTERIES If you haven’t entered a church in Moscow, you certainly haven’t met the soul of this Orthodox Christian city. The spiritual and historical center is in the ancient churches of the Kremlin: Cathedral of the Archangel (Cathedral Church), Cathedral of the Annunciation, Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles, Cathedral of the Dormition, Ivan the Great Bell Tower, Church of the Deposition of the Robe. Many Russian princes and emperors are buried in the Cathedral of the Archangel, and proof of the deep spiritual and historical connection between the Serbian and Russian people is the wonderful fresco of St. Sava of Serbia and St. Simeon the
Metro It is impossible not to mention metro stations, those, as they often call them, underground palaces. Besides fast transport, the Moscow metro enables passengers to enjoy wonderful classical and soc-realistic style platforms, colonnades and station walls. Some stations, such as the Mayakovskaya, Slavic Boulevard and Park of Culture, truly resemble museum halls. They are full of sculptures, mosaics, stained glass, murals, and some of them are even declared architectural monuments. The Moscow metro transports about eight million people every day, which is a European record.
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Myrrh-streaming, magnificently guarding the left pillar at the church entrance. The Cathedral of the Dormition was the crowning place of Russian emperors for centuries. In the late XIX century, a wonderful church was built in the center of the Russian capital, dedicated to Christ the Savior, to honor the victory over French aggressors. However, unfortunately, a horrible overturn took place soon afterwards, and communists took over leading the Russian state. With some dark passion, they demolished the great sanctity and built an open pool in its place. The works on rebuilding the Church of Christ the Savior began only in the late XX century. Now it is a magnificent church again, the biggest in Russia, an inevitable destination of guests of the Russian capital and Christians from the entire Orthodox world. There are more than a thousand churc hes in Moscow and each of them is beautiful in its own way. The majority of the most important ones are in the historical center of the city. Some of the most beautiful and historically most important monasteries are Danilovsky, Novospassky, Donskoy, Novodevichy and Sretensky. Each of them keeps some great sanctities: relics of saints and miracle-working icons. The tomb of His Holiness Patriarch of Moscow and all Russia Alexy II is in the Epiphany Cathedral in Yelokhovo, which used to be the main church of Russia for several decades.
D E S T I N A T I O N S MONACO, THE WORLD IN TWO SQUARE KILOMETERS
Glamour and Its Shadows
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Since the famous marriage of Prince Rainier III with Hollywood actress Grace Kelly in 1956, this small principality in Côte d’Azur became the gathering point of the rich and famous, gamblers and snobs, show-offs and exhibitionists. The social status in casinos is not measured by the money you win, but by the money you lose. The tax rate is only two percent, while prices of square meters are insanely sky-high. Still, apart from the popular big events, many buildings in Monaco seem empty and desolated. Life is somewhere else then By: Radmila Tamindžić
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D E S T I N A T I O N S Photo: Radmila Tamindžić and NR Archive
Cathedral and the Oceanographic Museum
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H
e was a thoroughbred prince of the miniature European principality on Côte d’Azur, and she was a famous Hollywood actress, Academy Award winner, translucent beauty with a brilliant career ahead of her. They met at the Cannes Film Festival, fell in love, and, in the presence of European and Hollywood jet-set, got married on April 19, 1956 in the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. Her rich father gave a dowry of two million dollars, an extraordinary large amount for that time, desperately needed by the small monarchy in the post-war financial crisis. She not only gave birth to three children, but contributed much to the development of the Principality, with tourists from all over the world, especially Hollywood, rushing to visit it. In spite of all this, the public thought that an actress is not worthy of being a monarch, so she received true recognition only after her death in a mysterious car accident in 1982. Twenty-three years later, her grieving husband was also buried in the Cathedral they got married in, and the throne was inherited by their son Albert II. A true fairytale. As if written by Andersen. Actually, it’s real and recognizable. Everyone already knows that we’re talking about the Principality of Monaco, the sec-
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ond smallest, after Vatican, yet most densely populated country in the world, about Prince Rainier III (full name Rainier Louis Henry Maxence Bertrand Grimaldi) and actress Grace Patricia Kelly. For the entire world, they have always been symbols of blue blood, elite, pedigree, stylishness, luxury, glamour and, of course, wealth, much more than their children: Prince Albert II and princesses Caroline and Stephanie. They impressed their seal into the Principality once and for all, making it today a true paradise for the rich and famous, thronging to buy a real-estate in the area of only two square kilometers. Our folks, who have also done it, are Lepa Brena and Novak Đoković, who first bought an apartment and, recently, a luxurious villa. LIFE AND BACKGROUND We’ve heard many interesting stories about Monaco from Tiziana Caserta, tourist guide in this miniature region, which, at least formally, has as much as 35.000 inhabitants. Among them are only a few thousand authentic Monacoers, while others include French, Italians and members of other nations. Besides glamour, foreigners are also attracted by low tax rates (only two percent), so most of them don’t live here at all. They come only during grand
events such as the Monte Carlo tennis tournament, annual Festival of the famous “Monte Carlo” circus, attended by the entire Grimaldi family, Formula 1 races in the narrow streets of Monaco, important boxing matches in the “Grimaldi Forum” or football games at the Stadium with the capacity of five times more people than authentic Monacoers… – In order to put a stop to this – tells Tiziana – the authorities began checking the presence of registered, yet absent citizens, through their water and electricity consumption. They returned by employing people to stay in their apartments and villas, to flush water, turn lights on and off, as if the owners were personally present. Even besides the “lights being turned on and off ”, most buildings in Monaco, full of greenery on balconies and rooftops, seem desolated and leave a ghostly impression. This, of course, doesn’t refer to Monte Carlo and the square in front of the Casino, the real lifeline of Monaco, together with the luxurious “Paris” hotel on one and the café with the same name on the other side, as well as the grandiose Opera edifice in the immediate vicinity – all architectural feats of famous Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris opera. The most luxurious and maddest cars are parked there, day and night,
just like the incredible yachts docked in the harbor, while their owners indulge in “low passions” and compare their social status in one of the glamorous casinos. The measure is not the amount won, but the amount lost. There are many similar stories to the one about a certain gentleman, who won three million francs after three days of gambling in a row, and lost them all the fourth day. An interesting fact is that born Monacoers are not permitted to gamble in the Casino.
Hill-citadel with the Prince’s Palace and the most important buildings of the old Monaco
VISIONS OF A PRINCE Monte Carlo is full of luxurious hotels and boutiques selling the most famous international brands, so many incorrectly
Jelena Đoković in the Japanese Garden Princess Grace Kelly has a great contribution in the flourishing of Monaco as a tourist paradise, as well as for the founding of the Theater, Museum of Postal Stamps, many charities, opening of the Japanese Garden with luxurious plants, a pool full of trout, small bridges, a waterfall…Walking around the Garden, we suddenly stumbled upon Jelena Đoković with little Stefan. People rushed towards her with cameras, and she cried: “No, please, no, don’t take photos, no, no…” Only when her plea was answered, she exchanged a few words with her compatriots with a big smile and slowly walked away.
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identify it with Monaco. However, it is only the most popular of the six wards of the Principality. The others are Moneghetti, residential quarter; La Condamine, port area and shopping mall; Larvotto, beach area; the old Monaco-Ville quarter with magnificent buildings, such as the Oceanographic Museum (whose director was Jacque Cousteau for three full decades), Prince’s Palace, Cathedral, Court… Finally, perhaps the most interesting quarter, Fontvieille, was constructed thanks to Rainier III. – Due to the small area of Monaco, the prince got an idea to claim a part from the sea by filing soil, dug out from numerous tunnels on Côte d’Azur, thereby creating the sixth municipality – explained Tiziana. – The Louis II Stadium, Princess Grace Rose Garden with 4.000 roses, the already mentioned “Monte Carlo” Circus, with Đoković’s building nearby, are all located in Fontvieille. So as not to disrupt the landscape of the Principality, Prince Rain-
Casino
French Control The story of Monaco is tightly related to the Italian Grimaldi family, who has been, with short interruptions, ruling the small state for more than 700 years. Although the Principality is formally completely independent, an agreement was made with France about its limited control over Monaco, stating that their political, military and economic interests would always be harmonized.
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ier didn’t allow constructing tall buildings in Fontvieille, however, after his father’s death, Prince Albert gave his consent for the erection of the tall blue building, the newest one in Monaco. It is a penthouse with 70 apartments, with all possible amenities, including a heliport on the roof, so the apartments on the top five floors cost around 300 million Euros. The sales, however, is not going as smoothly as the Prince expected, so there are still many vacant flats. Before this building, the most expensive real-estate was in the Grace Kelly Avenue, where one square meter costs 86.000 Euros. All in all, after more than half a century of ruling, Prince Rainier III of Monaco made the Principality a business, cultural, sports, and especially tourist center. When he took over the throne in 1949, 95 percent of the annual revenue was from casinos. He reduced it to only three percent, turning the country towards tourism and realestate sales. He succeeded in improving the image of the Principality, since it was often related to stories about suspicious financial transactions. What’s most important, he increased the area of Monaco by 20 percent by soil improvement, enhanced the Port for docking large ships and constructed an entire municipality by filing soil. Thus, the name “Prince-architect” is completely deserved.
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EMPURIABRAVA, “SPANISH VENICE”, A WHITE SHELL FULL OF PEARLS
In Dali’s Inspiration It was just a swamp until the 1960s. Then, in 1964, Catalonian reason and German capital merged here. Serious money and daring creativity were invested. Canals were cut, an entire network of them, and underbuilt with stone. The swamp was dried and the space between the canals fortified. Beautiful villas were built, charming little yards, gardens, terraces, pools, garages for yachts. This is how this magical little city with streets of water came to life, one of the largest “residential ports” in the world, which both shocked and made us sad
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lightly dizzy, we exit the City Theater in Figueres, named “Teatro” Museum of Salvador Dali since 1974, and his resting place, in one of the walls, since 1989. This city in the far northeast of Spain and its province of Catalonia, in the province of Girona, lives from the magic called Salvador Dali. Originating from the Castillo de San Fernando fort (XVIII century), it today has a population of about forty thousand, and about eight million tourists visiting it every year. They fly like fruit flies to the sugary moustache-antennas of the famous artist. Therefore, it’s no wonder that the moustache are a monument, symbol of the city, jewelry, a cake in the pastry shop on La Rambla, as well as a fridge magnet. – So? – asks good Juan Ramon in the garden of a nearby café, in front of a church where Dali was baptized.
By: Branislav Matić – He was right: the difference between him and a lunatic is in the fact that he is not crazy. The arrogance with which he mocked the crowd is astonishing. He is doing the same today. This city lives from his mocking. – Where is your place then? What were you looking for here? – Behind the smoke curtains, exhibitionism, grotesque presentations, planted false traces, I was looking for a golden seed and genuine secret of a great artist, his real face. I was looking for the shadow of pain and fear in his eyes. What he was hiding and what he was running from. I have always put aside his little games and foolishness and dived only into his real paintings, saturated with real mastership. I’ve been feeling for decades that there is no grinning dwarf behind such a great circus. SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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Café “Canal” and small electric rental boats
– So? Have you found it? – I believe so. Thus this dizziness and shortening of perspectives. Good Juan Ramon, as a good host, accepts everything possible, even not to be a living human, but our literary hero. – Leave Figueres for next year. Leave it for poetry. You know well that you have to come back here. I’m taking you to a different place now, which you will also never forget. EASILY WALKING INTO A MIRACLE A road through the plain of Girona, with a view of the Pyrenees. The shadow of the mountain wreath touches us in the late afternoon. On the northern side, half-asleep, France is trying to remember itself. Then a turn right, towards the blue whirlpool of the Mediterranean, towards the Wild Coast (Costa Brava), and the Bay of Roses. Imperceptible change of perspective, easily walking into a miracle. Empuriabrava. A luxurious shell full of pearls. A little city with freshwater fairway buoys instead of streets, boats and yachts instead of cars, berths instead of parking lots. – This was a swamp until the 1960s. Some of the local small rivers flowed here
Costa Brava It was really a Wild Coast in the past. Costa Brava. Some of the most dangerous pirates of the Mediterranean used to hide in this area. They even besieged Mt. Athos in the Aegean. After the pirates moved from their ships to TV and press conferences, it still remained the Wild Coast. General Franco made a turnover. In the 1950s, his government began a rapid development of tourism in this area. Roads and hotel complexes were built, settlements arranged. By the early 1970s, this became one of the most important rivieras of tourist superpower Spain. It begins in Blanes, about sixty kilometers northeast of Barcelona, and goes all the way to the border with France.
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and, a step from the sea, diffused into marshes – tells Juan Ramon while we’re approaching. – Then, in 1964, in an inspiration resembling Dali’s, Catalonian entrepreneurship and German capital met here. Serious money and daring creativity were invested. The works were completed in 1975. Canals were cut like streets, an entire network of them, and underbuilt with stone. The swamp was dried and the space between the canals fortified. On both sides, as you can see, beautiful villas with charming little gardens were built, terraces, pools, garages for yachts. Rich Germans started coming here, buying, building. It was their winter home for vessels. The French, Brits, Northern Europeans began purchasing villas later. Today this is one of the biggest “residential ports” in the world. “Spanish Venice”. It has twentyfour kilometers of fairways, five thousands places for boats. The constant population is about eight thousand, and the number increases to eighty thousand in the summer. It has about three hundred sunny days a year. The dizziness from Figueres is somewhat different here, but it doesn’t stop. Clouds are swarming above the Pyrenees, in the heights between the sea and the ocean. There will probably be rain in the following hours, but the stupid metropolitan rush cannot seize you here. We know that Cadaqués, “artists’ paradise” is nearby, as well as Dali’s village Port Lligat, but we don’t feel like leaving. We drink a cortado in the “Canal” coffee shop, Maria Dolores is giving her best, we are immersed in the unusual charm and quietness of this place. Catalonian language is close to French, so we would understand Mari easily even without Juan Ramon. The tall brunette rented us a boat to drive through the city.
(A smile, old French school, is free. Like a flower in the lapel picked along the way, in a garden.) – Clouds are pulling over, colors are retreating – says Juan Ramon. – Our pictures won’t be anything special. A lot of silvergray, monochromatic. He was named after a great poet. Perhaps that’s why we easily convinced him not to worry, that it was for the better. That we’re all already tired from the kitsch and stereotypes of the tourism industry, from the aesthetics of postcards where everything looks like a smile in a commercial, like love with plastic dolls. REAL CITIES ON WATER The electric boat silently glides down the water streets of Empuriabrava. The water is completely calm, smooth like a mirror, and very clean. It is river water, flowing, always running and new arriving. There is no Venetian staleness and breath of rotting, creeping under the arches of skulls, into the cerebellum, into the bones. There is no noise, no waves, no motor oil or gasoline stains. The controls of yachts are strict, as well as the speed limit in the streets-canals. An endless row of villas on both sides. Each one is different – there are Mediterranean ones, haciendas, admixtures of Moorish style, even British colonial, there is European classicism and modernism – but everything is very harmonious. The frames within architects and those investing money can move are clearly determined and consistently preserved. “My freedom is limited by the rights of others and interests of the community I live in.” – Such a nice example that capital doesn’t have to be banal, arrogant and selfish – we say. – Not because it is good somewhere
and bad elsewhere bad, but because here it is limited by law and refined with culture. The dictatorship of taste and authenticity. Good Juan Ramon, namesake of great Jimenez, asks us why we say it with sorrow and resignation. We explain that we would love to bring, under police escort, some neurotic and shortsighted pseudo-potentates from our country here, to see up close how real cities on water are built. Only three or four kilometers from the center of our country capital city, we say, there are exquisite places for a Danubian Empuriabrava. The marshes in Krnjača and downstream from the Pančevo Bridge could become very popular places among rich people of continental Europe. Bravura of Serbian intelligence and vision. But no. In the heart of the Serbian capital city, in spite of everyone, they are erecting their aborted Abu Dhabi and creating a permanent fight of old Belgrade with itself. What can you do. As Serbian Nobel prize winner Andrić says: “There come the times when…” – You don’t have to bring them here, my friend – says Juan Ramon and watches down the canal. – They’re here already. For example: the second canal on the right and two hundred meters further. It is the villa of the owner of the biggest private television station in your country. The one you call a poisoner, trash television, electronic tabloid. I must admit, his villa is beautiful.
Water streets of Empuriabrava
Cadaques North of the Bay of Roses, tucked between the Pyrenees and “the big blue of the Mediterranean”, this little city has been the gathering place of artists since the early XX century. The one who gathered artists most was Salvador Dali, who bought a fishing house in Cadaques and turned it into a summer house. This is where he met Gala, wife of his friend Paul Eluard at the time. His guests were Picasso and Lorca, Aragon and Breton. Port Lligat is nearby, the village where he lived with Gala for a while. SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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S H O R E S He also has a winter place for his yacht. And his neighborhood is very interesting as well. Interesting for you, not for me. When we reached the crossroad, we wanted to turn right. Nothing special. An eye on the road. But our host warns us that we can only drive the main streets-canals. Only residents or people invited by hosts can enter the side streets. Otherwise, private security reacts. – If hordes of tourists would start going round every corner and peeking into every yard, Empuriabrava would fall apart from the inside. The principle it was born from would be destroyed. THE FURTHER, THE CLOSER From the labyrinth of canals, we come out to a spacious triangular lake, on the northwest of the city, exactly opposite to the sea, towards Castello d’Empuries. All around are hotels, apartment and residential buildings. None of them higher than four floors, large terraces facing the water, Mediterranean whiteness. Berths for boats and yachts are in front of each of them. – This is something like a city square? – we ask Juan Ramon. – You see, one can live here with less money too – he says smiling. – Of course. Studio apartments are for poets and servants. He felt uncomfortable. He probably secretly writes poems as well. We cut through the city down the main road and drive towards the sea. Down
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Principal Canal, and then under Juan Carlos I Avenue, we turn around the circular center of Empuriabrava. We enter a network of canals and wide branches taking us to the sea. Between the water labyrinth of Empuriabrava and the sea is a portage with more than three kilometers long sand beach. We stop by the powerful stone underwalls, which prevent large waves and the tide from rushing in. Then we go out to the sea and sail south along the beach, all the way to the confluence of La Muga, a river resembling the Morava. It is the southwestern border of Empuriabrava. – Beautiful, isn’t it? I was right to talk you into this? – says Juan Carlos. – This is a large center for extreme and water sports. Outside of the city, towards the north, is an airport. That’s a place for fans of parachuting and sports flying from all over Europe. On the other side is Aiguamolls de l’Emporda Natural Park. Interesting flora and fauna, full of birds and strange ideas of the Creator. We return to the little city and enter the water streets again. We tie our boat, sit next to the lighthouse. It starts raining. Juan Ramon: – There’s a lot to see here. It’s worth coming at least for the whole summer. Or, even better, in spring. It could turn into a real Dali adventure. If you happen to lose the thread, it’s easy to drop by to Figueres and renew your knowledge. Serbia is four thousand kilometers from here. But it could be closer to the heart than when you are there.
V I S I T IN SOUTH AFRICA, FROM KRUGER TO CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
A Suitcase Full of Unforgettable Pictures We all know its difficult history of interracial relations, its many stereotypes and scars. In all that, one can easily miss the fact that it is a country of wonderful landscapes and national parks, savannas and bushes, wild nature and famous animals, good wines and well-known cities. You will see rain falling horizontally, baboons abducting cameras, and a traffic sign indicating that you must let the bugs pass the street. You will also see the baobab and many eyes glowing from the darkness. And whenever you close your eyes, you will see the wondrous starry sky above the south of Africa Text and photo: Josip Šarić
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Twilight at the “Kruger” National Park
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V I S I T One of the waterfalls of Lisbon Canyon of the Blyde River and geological formation “The Chief and His Three Wives”
A hut in Avoca Our travel writer in action
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n attempt to reduce a journey of 4.000 kilometers through South Africa to a few pages of text seems like mission impossible, but let’s try. An average European knows South Africa for its Boer wars (especially if from the Netherlands, England or Germany), for several decades of Nelson Mandela’s fight against apartheid, for animals wandering savannas and bushes freely, for the legendary Zulu people. However, South Africa is much more than that. With its colors, scents, shapes and sounds, it gets under one’s skin as soon as they step onto its soil and remains there forever. The starting point of the South-African adventure is Johannesburg, a city like many other world metropolises, a bit lost in contemporary architecture, so that a visitor cannot even notice he is in the south of the African continent. The first kilometers of the journey and the first, fortunately the only mistake we made. Due to the badly set GPS navigation, we suddenly found ourselves amidst the, with or without reason, notorious Soweto, the suburb in which sad traces of life under apartheid are still visible. These traces, however, can also be seen in many other places, both in big city centers such as Cape Town, Durban or Port Elizabeth, and in suburbs of smaller places we pass by. Electric and barb wires around the estates of the rich, most often white people, and signs writing “Armed response” are especially disturbing. However, South Africa offers a lot more than the surviving traces of apartheid and criminal, so, having in mind warnings to be careful in the city and the open areas, we move on further, unburdened with potential dangers.
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Baobab Tree They say that those who haven’t seen the baobab tree haven’t seen Africa, and the baobab doesn’t grow in the southern part of Kruger. Does that mean we won’t see Africa? After our return from the bush, Eliot does us a favor and takes us to a nearby scientific center, closed for visitors, where a baobab tree can be seen, planted by the hands of the pioneer explorers about a hundred years ago. So, we can finally rightfully say that we have seen Africa.
Our first stop is the part known as the Cradle of Humankind, where we visit the Sterkfontein cave and the Maropeng site. In the company of australopithecus africanus, whose age is estimated from 2,6 to 2 million years, and somewhat younger homo habilis, between 1,8 and 1,5 million years old, we easily realize how young our homo sapiens is. We see another sign and warning that Mozambique spitting cobras are lurking from the grass by the path and that they should be avoided. The road takes us over Pretoria, but we don’t stop there since the Lisbon Falls are waiting for us, with water rushing from a rocky plateau into a 94 meters deep abyss, making these waterfalls the highest in the Mpumalanga province. It’s clear that the waterfalls were named after the capital of Portugal, which is another indicator of the many interests confronted in South Africa in the past. SAFARI We leave the waterfalls and, like lonely travelers on a road winding through for-
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ests of eucalyptus trees, brought from Australia and cultivated for high-quality building material, we start off towards one of the most beautiful sights expecting us – the river Blyde canyon and the geological formation known as Chief and his three wives or Three Rondavels. The first name is related to Maripi Mashile, chief of the Bapedi tribe, who successfully repelled the attacks of the Swazi tribe. The second name originates from the similarity of this geological formation with traditional houses with a circular basis and cone roof. The landscape resembles Tolkien’s Middle Earth and it is difficult to turn the camera from it, but the itinerary is strict and we have to move further. Wonderful landscapes are luring, but the rules of the Kruger National Park are strict – the entrance gates close at 17:30 in July. Spending the night outside of the park borders in the uninhabited wilderness is not a foreseen or desired activity, so we absorb everything we see with our eyes, hoping at least a part of it will remain in our memory. We arrive on time. We enter the park on the Phabeni gate and settle in Skukuza, at the bank of the Sabie river. The morning wakes us with unfamiliar sounds and strange singing of invisible birds. The first day of the safari begins and our impatience to see the real inhabitants of those areas as soon as possible was soon rewarded. Winter made the tree branches bare and the grass withered. All shades of yellow-brown are around us. Sparse plants enable us to notice the animals easier – antelopes, zebras, giraffes, rhinos, lions, hyenas,
Eyes from the Darkness The night tour of the park brings us new excitement and encounters with a leopard, elephants, numerous warthogs, African viverrids and hundreds of glowing eyes watching us from the darkness. As if all around us are gigantic fireflies, who, enchanted by the beauty of the African night sky themselves, forgot to blink.
vultures, elephants, buffalos, baboons, hippos… they are all there, around us. We were guests in their house, so we had to respect the rules set up by our hosts. The order in the park depends on it, as well as the safety and life of visitors. Elephants warn intruders in their territory by raising their trunks and quickly waving their ears. After such a sign, one should calmly and as fast as possible move from their vicinity, which happened to us twice. According to earlier newspaper reports, those who didn’t respect this were left with demolished vehicles, some of them even dead. The greatest excitement expects us in the early morning of the following day – walking through the bush together with Eliot and Letters from the Tsona tribe. They are rangers armed with large caliber rifles and they show us traces invisible to us, explain the behavior of the animals and draw our attention to the roaring of lions coming from the distance, while we walk through the low shrubs following a rhino. The rhino stops from time to time, smells the scents brought by the morning wind and then loudly disappears in the bushes breaking branches, leaving us impressed with its raw strength. It remained unknown to us why both rangers were leading in front, while the rest
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Hippopotamuses in “Kruger” On the shore of the Indian Ocean
Vervet, elephants and ranger Letters from the Tsona tribe
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A shore in Nordhek, near the Cape of Good Hope
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Penguins in Simons Town Impalas from “Kruger”
of us, about thirty meters behind them, kept turning around all the time, asking ourselves what was hiding in the bushes around us. CRATERS AND DIAMONDS There are no wild baobabs in the bush, but there are marula trees. The marula fruit is the main ingredient of the internationally known South-African liqueur. The fruit of this tree is also known from the brilliant documentary Animals Are Beautiful People, showing elephants and monkeys tottering drunk from the fermentation beginning in their stomachs after eating the overripe marula fruit. Then came the end of our stay in Kruger and became part of the most beautiful memories from our journey. We have new objectives before us and, feeling sad for leaving, yet with a wish to see new lands, we continue further. Vredefort is in front of us, but we don’t stay long in this town small in size, but with high importance. The city of Vredefort gave the name to the largest crater formed on Earth after an asteroid impact about two billion years ago. At the time of its forming, the diameter of the crater was about 300 kilometers. Erosion destroyed most part of the crater’s edge, but its remains can be noticed in the form of a semicircular wreath of hills, in the vicinity of Vredefort. The road takes us further southwest, to a place famous around the world, especially among ladies and their generous cavaliers. It is the town of Kimberley, after which the kimberlite rock got its name, granting mankind the symbol of opulence, and in some cases doom – diamonds. The dig-
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gers left a hole with a diameter of almost 500 and 1.200 meters deep, the deepest abyss dug by human hands. They say that Sir Randolph Churchill, father of Winston Churchill, when once visiting the Great Hole, said: “All this just because of female vanity!” A lady from the group readily replied: “And because of the naughtiness of men!” Our longest road section is from Kimberley to Avoca, our next stop. It takes us over a plateau, at an altitude of 1.600 meters, as the GPS navigation showed. A vastness without any traces of human presence, except for the asphalt road and us as the only passengers. We stop and let the mountain air intoxicate us, while listening to the beating of our own hearts in our ears, since there were no other sounds around us. White mountain peaks covered with snow are in the distance, and an occasional breeze brings the scents of unknown herbs. Arriving to Avoca indicates that we are in a completely different climate compared to Kruger. The vicinity of the Indian Ocean creates a different rhythm of precipitation, so the entire area is suitable for cultivating citrus fruits, especially oranges. The plantations are endless and a river with a strange name – Sunday River – flows through the valley. We saw dassies on its banks from time to time, a stubby tailless animal, which turned out to be a rodent and the last living member of the Petromus typicus kind. LIONS, BABOONS, DUNG BEETLES Avoca is our starting point for the Ado National Park, famous for its large population of elephants. Another warning at the
park entrance, reminding us where we are. It writes that visitors accept that the parks of South Africa, their directors and employees, are free from liability for the loss, damage or destruction of any part of the visitors’ property, as well as any physical injuries or death that may occur. Nothing can stop us, so we enter. The lavishing greenery makes noticing animals more difficult, but we are persistent and it is finally rewarded – there are elephants, warthogs, as well as impalas, kudus, ostriches, zebras… Then we see the most bizarre traffic sign next to the road, warning that scarabs, also known for their prosaic name dung beetles, have the right of way. So, if we see a dung beetle crossing the road, we have to stop and let it pass. A bit further, a new notification and warning. Leaving the car is allowed, but at your own risk. With an addition – beware of lions. We leave the car, enjoy the view, at the same time paying attention to the occasional rustling in the nearby bushes. The caution proved justified, because after our departure, a few hundred meters further, we saw two lions behind a bush next to the road, dozing in the noon sun, probably with full stomachs. Our next stops are Knysna, Brenton on Sea and Mosel Bay. During our entire drive along its shore, the Indian Ocean shows its power and we enjoy the game of the wind and enormous waves. The arrival to Stellenbosch, the most famous wine district in South Africa, home of some of the most esteemed wines, resembled a return to a few hundred years ago. We are in a little colonial town, beautiful, clean, made up, surrounded with endless vineyards and wineries of-
fering tasting of numerous types of wine. It is a lure hard to resist, but, as so many times before, the schedule has to be met and we set off towards the legendary Cape of Good Hope. Along the way, we visit Simons Town, its Boulders Beach and the unique colony of African penguins. Besides the cute and clumsy birds, which forgot to fly but learned to swim, the smell also remains in our memory – as if we were in a giant tin of sardines, which is the consequence of the penguins’ nutrition and their final digestion product. And another bizarre warning on the parking lot: “Warning! Please, look under your vehicle for penguins!” CAPE OF HOPE AND CAPE TOWN We finally reach the Cape of Good Hope. We were greeted by impudent and intrusive baboons, attacking anyone holding something in their hands already at the parking lot. Searching for food, which they got used to during many years of negligent and curious visitors, the baboons scramble anything they get their hands on – food, purses, cameras, eyeglasses, hats… We run away from them and find the following greeting Cape had prepared for us – storm wind and raindrops, which seem to defy gravitation, since they fall horizontally. A view of the sharp rocks on the shore swished by the wind and several meters high waves, imposes the question which we don’t ask out loud, but it remains on our lips – what hope could this cape offer to anyone, staggering on the deck of a ship left to the mercy of uncurbed nature? All of a sudden, the heavy clouds move apart and rays of sun form a double SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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Images of South African Life
V I S I T rainbow on the open sea, confirming that the name of the Cape is justified indeed. We leave the Cape of Good Hope, passing through the towns of Scarborough, Kommetjie, Noordhoek, Haut Bay and Oudekraal. We are probably on one of the most beautiful roads in the world. Cape Town, the final destination of our South-African adventure is in front of us. A modern metropolis, tucked on the shore under the legendary Table Mountain, representing the most famous city landmark, greeted us bathing in the sun, joyful, busy, colorful, cosmopolitan. The 2010 World Cup contributed to the modernization of the city, while the spirit of its past is best noticed in the old city quarter of Bo Kaap. All houses are painted in bright colors, which gives the entire quarter particular picturesqueness and a bit of psychedelics. That part of the city is perhaps even more famous for the small restaurants serving specialties created as a mixture of the Asian, Arabic and European cuisine, offering guests the possibility to perceive food in a completely different light. The colorful idyll, however, hides a dark story in its deeper layers, about an
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act brought in the years of apartheid (1950 Group Areas Act), proclaiming that part of the city as residential area exclusively for the so-called Cape Muslims. Members of other ethnic and religious groups were forced to leave. Most of them were descendants of slaves from eastern Africa, subject of racial discrimination until the final rescission of apartheid in 1994. However, far-reaching consequences of the mentioned act can also be noticed today, since Muslims are still the only inhabitants of Bo Kaap. We end our journey with traditional food of a few African countries and melodic songs followed by the fiery rhythm of drums. We have more than 4.000 kilometers behind us, and memories and adventures for more than 4.000 pages of text. Africa, as the cradle of mankind, also remains the cradle of permanent suffering and injustice, conflicts and reconciliations. It is, however, also a cradle of wonderful landscapes, hospitable people, savannas and bushes, and animals in their natural environment. Africa is the cradle of the starry sky we will always see when we close our eyes. ď ł
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D E P T H S
Visiting
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Poseidon AT AN UNDERWATER BALLET PERFORMANCE
What is it that attracts people towards the sea bottom, the hardly conceivable depths? What kind of passion is it, what kind of curtains do they pass, what worlds do they reach? Željko Sinobad, reputable Serbian photo-reporter and permanent fellow traveler of “National Review”, shared with us his experience from the southern shores of Sinai and photos from the depths of the Red Sea. Do we understand the invisible smile of Poseidon, spreading before us from the most ancient ancientness? By: Miloš Lazić Photo: Željko Sinobad
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he German ship that transported food, beverages and supplies for the military units stationed in Egypt during World War II, sunk by a very precise airplane bomb in the Red Sea, in the vicinity of the shores of Sinai, is an important touristic landmark of this Arab country. Another one is the ship sunk nearby in 1980, just across Sharm El Sheikh, transporting building material and bathroom equipment (tubs, sinks, toilet seats, bidets), for this city-hotel, the main tourist destination in this part of the world. This city in the far south of the Sinai Peninsula has a population of about 30.000, and more than five million tourists visiting it every year. It is especially popular among divers, whose important underwater destinations are these two sunken ships. What is it that attracts people to the sea bottom? What kind of passion is it? Why do they search for remains of long-gone shipwrecks, even when there are no signs of sunken treasure? THE WONDERFUL MYSTERY OF NATURE – In order to get an answer to these questions, it is enough to see pictures of world masters of photography made in unfathomable sea depths – says Željko Sinobad, reputable Serbian photo-reporter
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Diving in Euros – We had to pay the local diving club 260 euros for fourteen dives. It is a usual price anywhere in the world, including Montenegro. The price includes cylinders, lead, a guide and a ship, which offered us breakfast for only three euros. Compared to the price of the tourist package in the exclusive resort, the expenditure of divers is higher for that amount. At that time, before the sinister “Arabian Spring”, a tenday tourist package, including half-board, transport, airport taxes and visas, without the price of diving, amounted to 620 euros.
and permanent fellow traveler of National Review. – For me, they were a challenge, a road sign, they were the reason to put diving equipment on my back for the first time and dive in. However, he was never attracted by ship wrecks or underwater archeology, because they reminded him of “still life”. He was attracted by life blossoming on coral reefs of warm seas. – Corals are animals, not plants – he explains. – And the fact that they build their fantastic colonies and that their petrified shells are piling up for hundreds of thousands of years, creating large reefs and atolls, even entire archipelagos, is a profound and wonderful mystery of nature. A coral reef is a stage with an ever-
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lasting ballet performance, with some of the most beautiful representatives of water life as participants. My first quest for such sights was in the crystal clear, yet poor in life Adriatic Sea, and later, with my friends from a renowned diving club from Belgrade, I began discovering the beauties of the Red Sea bottom. That sea is one of the geologically youngest. It was created from a lake, which merged with the sea in a later tectonic movement. It is about two thousand meters deep, and about two hundred at the entrance and near the shore. The Babel-Mandeb strait provided life for about forty percent of corals from the Indian Ocean and who knows how many species of tropical fish. There were much more, but their number decreased after the construction of the Suez Canal. It is the only sea without a single river flowing into it, so the water is absolutely clean and with a temperature of an average 20 degrees, perfect for diving. – As far as I know, similar conditions exist only in Polynesia – adds Sinobad. – The northern part, the Gulf of Suez in the west and Gulf of Aqaba in the east, are not very interesting for diving, except at their entrance, where there are reefs and wrecks. For example, there are several sunken ships on the Abu Nuhas reef, as well as on the Aqaba part, but it is inaccessible
Quest Tourism Two friendly Dalmatians recently published a book with maps of all sunken ships in the Adriatic Sea, including their type, transport capacity and list of loads, as well as the exact time, date and reason of sinking. They say the book is a bestseller. Naive tourists in Florida are still offered “reliable maps” with drawn locations of sunken old ships with immeasurable treasures, allegedly victims of notorious Caribbean pirates. “Quest Tourism” is flourishing. By the way, the shooting of the movie “Titanic” cost less than exploring the possibility of reaching the remains of the sunken ship, a lavishing tomb of more than one and a half thousand passengers and crew members.
for ships, so we dive “from the shore”. You can actually approach it by boat, but anchoring is strictly forbidden, in order not to damage the corals. Those who want to play with fate can drop anchor, but they should know that the penalty for breaking a single coral sprig in the underwater Ras Muhammad National Park is at least 200.000 dollars. It is calculated according to a square centimeter of a destroyed or damaged fossil. BLUE HOLE AND THE LIMITS OF REASON Just there, in the Gulf of Aqaba, stands the ancient village of Dahab. It is inhabited and owned by the Bedouins, unusual desert nomads. Even the development of
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D E P T H S tourism couldn’t keep them in one place, but, even without them, Dahab managed to become the center of diving tours in that part of Sinai. The Bedouins, on the other hand, kept the tradition and saved the village from urbanization, which is what mostly attracts tourists. This is where its beauty lies. Thus divers, surfers and kiters (those surfing with kites) come to Dahab. Everything is always full, so divers from the Balkans mostly stay in Sharm El Sheikh. – In the world of divers, Dahab became famous for the story about the Blue Hole or Blue Well. There are only two such places in the world: one is Belize, in the Caribbean, and the other is a Blue Hole on the shore of the Red Sea. Although, to be honest, there’s really nothing to see! It is a former cave, whose vault stumbled a long time ago, probably due to erosion, and left an abyss underneath, claimed to be about a hundred and twenty meters deep. On the eastern side, in the depth of about sixty meters, there is a 25 meters long arched passage. It used to be the only entrance into the cave, and today it is the only emergency exit.
They say that there is little life down there, compared to the reefs, screaming with life. People only go there for the challenge: to be where others cannot or dare not be, over the limits of reason. Some ascribe that, almost suicidal dive, to “underwater intoxication”, and others to the fact that dahab means gold in the language of the nomads. Is there a bigger mystery or sweeter adventure than a treasure quest? – There is, however, a warning for the brave and reasonless – explains Željko. – In the rock, exactly above the Blue Hole, there are about twenty granite or bronze plates with names of those who remained down there forever… although not all of them! I first heard about the Blue Hole from my principal and colleague Tomislav Peternek, who dived and took pictures there before I became a photographer, and certainly before our divers discovered that destination, at the time Egyptians directed tourist groups only towards their ancient past. Many things have changed in the meantime. I found somewhere that one half of Egypt’s income from tourism is from diving tours. Knowing the intensity of that passion, it sounds pretty realistic.
Povratni letovi Beograd - Split već od 114 !
Return flights Belgrade - Split starting from 114!
Za sat vremena do Jadrana! Letovi su svakog ponedeljka, petka i subote od 13. maja 2017. (3 direktna leta tjedno s konekcijom iz Splita za Zagreb). U cenu su uračunate sve pripadajuće takse. Broj mesta je ograničen.
Fotos: I. Čorić, D. Fabijanić
To the Adriatic in an hour! Flights will be operated on Mondays, Fridays and Saturdays from 13 May 2017. (3 direct flights per week with connections from Split to Zagreb). The price includes all taxes. The number of seats are limited.
croatiaairlines.com, m.croatiaairlines.com
symbol w e n a t, n ra u ta s e R “Solunac” r Dorćol! of Belgrade’s Lowe ality offer, it p s o h d n a ry a n li u Top c tic Serbia! n e th u a f o it ir p s e th
Belgrade Dunavska 25 + 381 11 328 18 65 + 381 63 355 414 rcol.com office@solunac-do l.com www.solunac-dorco
N O T E S
SAŠA JOVANOVIĆ, WELL KNOWN “PIANO ANIMATOR” FROM BELGRADE
Old Panache
We used to live daily with that fine piano sound in our prestigious hotels and restaurants. It was a matter of ranking and nobility. A matter of taste. Even today there are places that hold to such criteria, where gifted piano artists do their best. Enchant with their skill, repertoire, discreteness. They show that there is no small stage for a true artist. Our interlocutor has a special place among them
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any are surprised when in the early tradition of Serbian city taverns find a piano in a conspicuous place. This salon instrument was predecessor to accordion and violin, trumpet and tamburitza in taverns. The goal was to create a pleasant atmosphere where, with soft music, people can talk, relax and be on one’s own. In those times, taverns were not meant as a place of reveling and explosions of passions, drunkenness and broken glass up to one’s knees. In old centers of Serbian towns one can still found old taverns and restaurants full of evidence that the former nobility has not entirely disappeared. Tastefully decorated, with lots of interesting national dishes, carefully thought-through wine list, efficient and noble service in multiple languages, these taverns somewhere in the corner still have the good old piano. And not as a souvenir or a mere symbol. Some skillful fingers are still dancing in these instruments, creating sounds of dear melodies. In prestigious hotels and famous restaurants, this is also a sign of high ranking. Some gifted artists, in handbooks clumsily called “piano animators”, are still giving their best every day on these instruments. They enchant with their skill, repertoire, performer’s honesty, discreteness. They show that there is no small stage for a true artist. They are an important part of the magic that makes us come back to these venues. If they fall silent, we immediately notice that something irreplaceable da is missing. In Belgrade, Maestro Saša Jovanović stands out among them. He returned to the Belgrade’s music scene after many years of gaining such musical experience, as an animator, in various parts of the world. – As a guest of Hungarian violinist Istvan Verebes, I stayed and played music in many tourist centers around the world, from Acapulco, to Miami and New York to Mexico City and Taipei – says Jovanović. – I studied how the clients of the world’s most luxurious hotels react to my music. In Taiwan, tired bankers would came after lunch to take a short nap in comfortable hotel armchairs, demanding that I play “Silent Night” or Simjanović’s music from the series “The Unpicked Strawberries”, which I had included in the repertoire. In other places, they stop when they hear familiar
The Incomparable Momčilo – In the hotels on Budva Riviera I have had the honor to play before the then-Russian Prime Minister Primakov, the stars of the international jet-set, such as Jeremy Irons and Claudia Schiffer, chess players Fischer and Spassky. Still, an unparalleled experience for me was the encounter with the great Serbian writer and painter Momo Kapor – says Saša Jovanović.
sounds, stop the conversation and turn toward me, remember the melody, smile, and continue their conversation. In Cadiz in Spain, an entire Portuguese orchestra discretely joined me, while I was playing “April in Portugal”. Jovanović started his career of a piano animator in the late 1980’s Hotel “Metropol” in Belgrade. – At that time, a large number of tourists from all over the world visited Belgrade and many of them stayed in this very hotel. Besides, I have special memories about “Metropol”, because in the 1970’s, my grandfather worked there as a receptionist, and he often let me come with him to work. Since then, I find the hotel ambience very appealing, the steady flow of people, the dynamism that cannot be found elsewhere.
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With former Miss Jelena Jakovlјević
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Saša Jovanović as a boy at the school of music in Belgrade
ACCORDING TO WORLDWIDE EXPERIENCE Piano animation of Saša Jovanović includes a wide range of musical genres. – My repertoire includes evergreen, jazz, pop, French chansons, Italian canzone, Russian romances, film music, as well as our old town music. The thing is, of course, in the subtlety of performance – he says. – I can single out as one of my more significant achievements the performance in “Harvard Club” in New York and on the Mexican national television. Traveling around the world, I have accumulated extensive musical literature. However, I am especially fond of many tunes I learned “by ear”, because their notes had not even been written. If you are talented and hardworking, with some luck that someone notices you, this work can bring great pleasure and dynamics lifestyle. After visiting many tourist centers worldwide, Jovanović came back to Serbia. He frequently performs in exclusive Belgrade hotels. – I have been performing in Hotel “Moscow” for several months, which inspires with its atmosphere, service level and spontaneous communication of the staff. I will not be wrong if I say that this hotel is a real jewel of Serbian hotel in-
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dustry, especially after the extensive renovation. The fact that it has had a tradition of piano animation for more than one hundred years means a lot to me. Modern hotel management at its best can also be found at “Square Nine” Hotel, which also nurtures a special tune of piano animation, in which I participate. Finally, I feel a special satisfaction because of the fact that I also perform in the restaurant “Two Deer”, a true repository of Serbian tradition and Serbian spirit, in which the piano is played “like at the beginning of the last century”. After all, it is my great desire, even mission, to have the piano return to the noble frameworks of Serbian taverns. Saša Jovanović often performs outside Belgrade. – I do that with great pleasure. Within the project “The Royal Spas of Serbia”, I played for many years in Vrnjačka Banja, in the most famous local hotel “Merkur”. I believe that this is only the beginning of a broader collaboration with successful Serbian hotels, in major tourist centers, and that the sounds of the piano will be heard in them like in the old times. Large hotel chains around the world have piano animators and they assign them to their hotels worldwide. My goal is to encourage the implementation of a similar project in Serbia. Maybe I will be able to accomplish within the group “A Hotels”.
G A T H E R I N G S
“WINTER MAGIC 2017” IN BRZEĆE
The Kopaonik Beauty
"Selection for the “Miss of Kopaonik”, an evening of authentic folk arts and crafts, interesting workshops, the day of ethno fashion - all this is a good way to promote the tourist potentials of Brus and the surroundings. It is also clear in which direction they should work to really be competitive in the demanding European market
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n order to enrich the winter tourist offer in Brzeće, the event “Winter Magic” took place on Kopaonik from 14 to 16 January. With support of the Municipality of Brus and its Tourist Organization, with “Favorit” Agency from Aranđelovac as the executive producer, this interesting gathering took place for the second time. In addition to the “Ethno Evening” and the “Day of Ethno Fashion”, once again the main event
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was the beauty pageant “Snow Queen”. Thirteen girls from all over Serbia participated. The winner was Danijela Lukić from Kruševac, the first runner-up was Jelena Mitrović from Vlasotinci, the second runner-up Marina Gavrilović from Bajina Bašta. The title of “Top Model” went to Anđela Jovanović from Topola, and Snežana Đorić from Aranđelovac was proclaimed the “Face of the Year”.
The winners received valuable sponsorship awards, from a holiday in Greece for two persons, through a long weekend on Kopaonik, to a package of premium wines from Irig. The Tourist Organization of Brus also gave them valuable gifts. – It is our intention that this event grows into a recognizable brand of this part of Serbia – says Dragoljub Marković, President of the Tourist Organization of Brus. – We want all participants and guests to have their impressions at least as beautiful as all the beauty that has gathered here on this occasion. At the “Ethno evening” many ensembles demonstrated their skills in fostering Serbian tradition and folk arts – in dancing, singing, playing on old and rare instruments – such as female singing group “Crnućanka” from Gornji Milanovac, gusle player Vukomir Šćekić, KUD “Brvenica” from the municipality of Raška, group “Svarožići” and Cultural and Artistic Society “Jovanča Micić” from Jagodina, toast giver Dragiša Simić from Mionica (author of the event “Prela i posela”), the ensemble “Bread of Life” from Belgrade, choreographer Milutin Veličković... Over fifty performers. The ethno fashion show featured models by the designer Dragana Mijatović
Petrović (“Kreativa”, Kruševac) and Radmila Simić (“Prela i posela”, Mionica). In the lobby of Apart Hotel “Kopaonik” was the exhibition of handcrafts of the association “The Golden Hands of Brus”. – With this second edition of our event, we are closer to the standards we have set for ourselves at the beginning – says Goran Kovačević, executive producer of the event. – Both with the number of participants, and the quality of the program and the number of municipalities that were represented. Special thanks to the Tourist Organization of Brus, and Apart Hotel “Kopaonik”, the host of all these events. On the second day of the event, in the morning, the participants visited Pančić Peak on Kopaonik, from where the view extends “all the way to the Kosovo plains”.
Support The event was supported by the Automobile Association of Serbia (Kruševac branch), Travel Agency “Stela Maris”, wine cellar “Mačkov” from Irig, Apart Hotel “Kopaonik”, Apart Hotel “Mount” from Kopaonik, Hotel “Golubački grad” from Golubac, Villa “Mina i Anja Turs” from Zlatibor, manufacturer of antique furniture “MirMar” from Venčane, Apiaries “Mirić” from Belanovica... SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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H E A L T H
Seven Decades of Healing JUBILEE OF “MERKUR” FROM VRNЈAČKA BANЈA
From 1947, when the Government of the People’s Republic of Serbia established the National Health Company “Vrnjačka Banja”, a long way has been travelled. Years have passed, the names and organizational forms have changed, but the objectives and beneficial effects have remained the same. “Merkur” today is a modern medical and spa complex. It combines high expertise, new technologies and exceptional gifts of nature. It erases the borders between treatment and enjoyment. It awakens health, preserves beauty
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he story about “Merkur” as a spa resort begins in 1947. Vrnjačka Banja was already known as a center of spa tourism. Serbian gentlemen have realized very early the benefits of the spa water and stay in the spa resort. An interesting fact is that between the two world wars Vrnjačka Banja had more tourists than
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Dubrovnik. A number of famous people – scientists, poets, actors, writers, painters – were spending time in Banja and found their inspiration there. Since its establishment, “Merkur” has been the core of Vrnjačka Banja and its services, creating the principles of spa treatments, therapeutic treatments with
mineral water, hygienic-dietary regime in which the choice of food, rest and relaxation, spending time in nature and social life play important roles. Ancient balneo therapies, used for centuries, still comprise the basis of services in “Merkur”. Relying on the natural wealth of Vrnjačka Banja, they have been applied successfully in therapy through drinking, bathing, inhalation, vaginal spraying and enemas. On the basis of a good development strategy, in the last decade “Merkur” has managed to grow from a traditional spa rehabilitation center into a modern medical and spa resort. Traditional balneo service has been significantly upgraded with modern diagnostic methods, highly specialized medical team, relaxation and spa facilities. This is how “Merkur” awakens health! “Merkur” is today, therefore, a modern and internationally recognized health resort, where doctors and natural curative factors, combined, have jointly been waging the battle for health. That is why their results in the diagnostics and treatment of diseases of the digestive system, musculoskeletal system, as well as in the prevention and treatment of diabetes, are so
Communication Former postal letters to patients are now replaced by cybertechnology, with the possibility of two-way communication simultaneously with thousands of patients through the website, social networks, e-mail tools and online applications.
significant. In addition, “Merkur” is also an excellent place for all those who are looking for total relaxation and revitalization or physical activities for preventive purposes. This stylish resort is placed in the heart of Vrnjačka Banja, in a beautiful natural surroundings of Vrnjačka Banja Park, one of the most beautiful in Serbia. “Merkur” successfully combines modern technology and comfortable accommodation with spa services and natural resources, providing patients with health and beauty. Bathing in mineral water, which fills all the pools of “Merkur’s” Spa Center “Roman Spring”, is a modern version of the traditional concept of spa tubs. “Merkur” is an interesting mosaic of different inspirational possibilities, where everything is subordinated to those who come to Vrnjačka Banja searching for a cure or with a desire to restore energy and smile.
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S T U D I E S
BELGRADE BUSINESS SCHOOL STRATEGICALLY FOLLOWS DEVELOPMENT TRENDS
Education of Personnel in Tourism
Tourism has a number of positive influences on many other areas of society and economy: the economy, infrastructure, construction, transport and communications, local community development... In each of them, the factor of expertise and knowledge is crucial. With that in mind, Belgrade Business School has created and accredited a special study program, in which the first generation of students will graduate this year, vocational travel managers. Experiences are good, opportunities for the development are ample By: Dr. Milka Ivanović
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he development of tourist activity takes place rapidly throughout the world, and in Serbia it has also recorded a significant rise. The benefits of tourism for the development of society are increasing. Its multidisciplinary nature can best be seen in linking different areas of the business sector, because it has a positive effect on the economy, infrastructure, construction, transportation and communication systems, the development of local community. Benefits and impacts of tourism on the complementary activities are numerous. The economic SRBIJA SPECIJALNO IZDAWE 2017.
aspect is reflected in the fact that it encourages and increases employment and competitiveness, emphasizes the development of trade, craft, causing an increase in the national revenues, while the sociopsychological aspect of tourism development is reflected in the construction and improvement of infrastructure, promotion and preservation of traditional values and local folklore, in improving the level of quality of primary and secondary services that are essential for optimal functioning of all tourism entities. It is also important to point out the increasing
contribution of tourism activities to the environmental sustainability. The said indicators are the result of increasingly diverse mass tourism developments in the past decades due to increased living standards of people. Directions of tourism development, ranging from globalization to preservation and promotion of local values and products, decreased degradation of the space and preservation of natural resources, are also influenced by the changes in the socio-psychological consciousness of consumers, whose tastes are polarized because, on the one hand, we have an increasing demand for comfort, and the other for adventurism, educational and sustainable forms of offerings. Entertainment, excitement and learning, are essential characteristics of modern offer, and this should also be taken into account when creating new destinations on a tourist map, such as Serbia, which has excellent conditions in terms of natural attractions, but also many shortcomings in a number of segments, with the crucial question being: the factor of expertise and knowledge. High professionalism and competences of people directly employed in this field are a prerequisite for the aforementioned directions of development and the effects could be seen in their optimal scope in Serbia as well. In this regard, Belgrade Business School, as a state institution and a respectable educational entity in the production of highly qualified personnel with decades of tradition, with its new programming concept and development strategy, which is based on innovation and quality improvement of quality of the existing study programs and creating new ones, seeks to make its valuable contributions. In this respect, the accredited study program Tourism Management, which has begun in 2014, with the arrival of prof. Dr. Đuro Đurović as the Director, is the result of that commitment. This year, the first generation of students will graduate within this program, vocational travel managers. MASTERING THE MANAGERIAL SKILLS By developing the concept of dual education, as already known, Belgrade Business School, in addition to lectures, places
great emphasis on internships that students do in numerous tourist and hospitality organizations with which the School has established cooperation. In addition, during the teaching process they organize lectures of prominent professionals in the area of tourism, of different profiles, showing the students, on specific examples, how to apply theoretical knowledge in practice. With discussions and analyses, students are taught how to master the management skills, how to understand the organizational, technological, communications and other aspects of managing tourist and hospitality organizations. In direct contacts with representatives of the Tourist Organization of Serbia and Tourist Organization of Belgrade, who gave lectures in BBS in the previous semester, it became evident that the majority of students lack sufficient knowledge of geography, and that it is advisable to include that subject in the study program. This information was sufficient to give an initiative at the meeting of the Council of the Study Program, which made the decision to introduce the subject entitled the Methodology of Tourism Geography, which will certainly improve the quality of the current study program. In addition, it is planned to create an additional program to train students of Belgrade Business School to take the exams for tourist guides and companions, which is organized annually by the Ministry of Trade, Tourism and Telecommunications. With the approval of the Ministry, this program would be implemented starting from the next academic year, which will, we believe, increase the attractiveness of our basic study program Tourism Management. Also, for the students of a high school of tourism in Belgrade, it is planned to organize, on weekends, free of charge courses of foreign languages that are studied at Belgrade Business School (English, Ger-
On Social Networks Striving for continuous improvement of quality, Professor Dr. Milena Nikolić, the head of the study program Tourism Management, with teachers directly involved in the teaching, has been making additional efforts to improve the structure of the existing program and to increase its attractiveness. In this respect, they have already created very active pages on Facebook and Instagram. They have 100-300 views per day, which is a good result.
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S T U D I E S
At the Fair Given the fact that we are approaching another Tourism Fair in Belgrade, an agreement was reached with the Tourist Organization of Belgrade that students of Belgrade Business School be engaged in some of the stands.
man, Russian, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian). There is an initiative that Belgrade Business School becomes a member of HORES (Association of Hoteliers and Restaurateurs of Serbia), contracts were signed with a number of hotels and agencies where students do their internships, and some also find jobs. The latest example is “Falkensteiner” Hotel, which employed three students. There is a plan to sign a contract with the Hotel “88 rooms” in Belgrade, which offered that students attend “rotation trainings”, to get familiar with all business segments, and the best ones will have the ability to get a job. CAREER DEVELOPMENT MODELS In the context of overall development and improvement of the structure and quality of study programs, BBS established the Center for Career Guidance and Counseling, headed by prof. Dr. Aleksandra Đurić, with a twofold purpose: professional development of students and improvement of the system of vocational education on the basis of liaisons and cooperation with companies, through
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conceptualization, promotion and creation of innovative models for career development. Within the Centre and in cooperation with the teachers engaged in the study program Tourism Management, in the previous period, thematic workshops, courses and various training programs have also been organized in addition to public lectures. In this respect, the Director of Belgrade Business School professor. Dr. Đuro Đurović, on St. Sava Day, 27 January 2017, presented certificates of appreciation to all visiting lecturers for their contribution in education. Among about thirty lecturers, the certificates were given to representatives of the Tourist Organization of Serbia and Belgrade, the director of “Izvor” Hotel, representatives of “Crowne Plaza” Hotel, editor of the journal Congressional Tourism, a representative of the agency “Travel Boutique”, tour guides, prominent lecturers from America, from the Department of Security at “Daniel Morgan” Academy in Washington, DC, from “Telekom Serbia” and many others. All the realized and the ambitious future plans demonstrate true commitment and potentials, both professional and organizational and technical and technological, which are characteristic of a large educational system of vocational profiles, such as Belgrade Business School. (The author is a professor at Belgrade Business School)
УСТАНОВАСТУ ДЕНТСКО INSTITUTION STUDENTS’ ОДМАРА ЛИШТЕ„БЕОГРАД“ RESORT “BELGRADE”
Business Lakić” on кAvala ПословнUnit ајед“Radojka иница„Ра дојкаЛа ић“наАвали Build onвthe theјаlate 1930’s, it isго atди the Напра љенfoundations о на темељof имaаbuilding објектаfrom са кра три десетих на same time the seat ofди the Institution of Students’ resort It XXве ка,овојеисе штеУста новесту дентскогод мар“Belgrade”. алишта„Бе рад“.На зисенанај лепшемде упла инеАвалof а,наобо усрп isогlocated onлаthe most beautiful part лof the нmountain Avala, дon the скепре с то н и ц е.По с леру и н и р а њ аупро л е ћ е1999,то к омагре с ије outskirts of the capital of Serbia. After it was demolishes in 1999, during Сеaggression вероатлант когпак танаСр ију,цеообје катјепо ступнbuilding ообно the ofсthe North AtlanticбPact against Serbia, the entire вљен.Да н асјетојед н ооднај м о д ер н и ј ихсту д ент с киход м арали was restored gradually. Today it is one of the most modern students’ resorts луЕвро пе.Пруexcellent жаодлич ансмештај,исfood хранand уицео inштауовомде this part of Europe. It provides accommodation, the спек т ардру г ихуслу г асту д ен т и м а,алиико р и с ни ц и м аспо љ а. entire range of other services to students, as well as third party users. стојисеоддваде ItСа consists of two parts:ла:
New building “Avala”ла“ Новиобје кат„Ава On area of 5.357 Itжhas Повaрsurface шине 5.357 ква дратнsquare их метmeters, ара, каitпаhas цит158 ета beds. 158 ле ајевaа. restaurant with 200 seats, a conference with seminar room Има ресто ран ску салу са 200 месroom та, кон фер150 енцseats, ијску салу са 150 места,са лузасе наре2х30ме таилет убаштуса200места. with 2x30 seats, andми summer gardenсwith 200 њ seats.
Annex Депаданс Its is 73 beds inжdouble andкре triple It has restaurant Каcapacity пацитетмује73ле ајаудво ветнrooms. имитро креaвет нимсо with seats. сторанскусалуса180места. бам180 а.Имаре General Ždanova 201, 11226 Belgrade ГенералаЖданова201,11226Београд 011 3907 946 •• 011 3907 947 ••recepcija.avala@usob.rs recepcija.avala@usob.rs•• www.usob.rs www.usob.rs 0113907946 0113907947
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INSTITUTE OF SPORT AND SPORTS MEDICINE OF SERBIA, AN IMPORTANT INSTITUTION THAT IS BEYOND SCIENCE, PROFESSION OR SPORTS TOURISM
The Home of True Athletes
In many places, you will find some of this, but here you get everything. If you want to check your health and potentials, if you need to prepare for superior results under the highly qualified supervision, if you practice sports to stay fit and improve the quality of life, if you simply want to escape from the fast and nervous city into an oasis of peace and nature, then this is the place for you. One answer to many questions
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n Belgrade, everyone can find what makes them happy. Good hotels, restaurants with excellent food from all over the world, great promenades, sports centers, greenery and freshness of parks where you can get away from the hustle and bustle of the big city. But only in one place in Belgrade, one can find all this as a whole. On the hill of Košutnjak, in
the heart of the forest, which is the official a natural monument, where the air is almost mountain fresh, with chirping of birds singing and wind, guests from all over the world are bound to have just such a unique experience. Right there is the Institute for Sport and Sports Medicine Serbia, a kind of home for athletes of all categories – the SERBIA SPECIAL EDITION 2017
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“Trim” Hotel
E X A M P L E S Outdoor pool in Košutnjak Isokinetic dynamometer at the Institute
best ones in the world and those for who sport is a means for a better life. In one place, in a complex with total area of 43 hectares, is “Trim” Hotel, surrounded by indoor and outdoor courts for handball, volleyball, basketball, tennis, a complex of indoor and outdoor swimming pools, athletic stadium, playgrounds for mini golf and bowling, units for rehabilitation and physical medicine, laboratories for sports-medical examinations, psychological testing and analysis in sports. Staying in this complex will make you forget the stress of urban life, calm your senses and exalt your body, to remember all those things that give true meaning to life. A variety of sports activities, which are an integral part of the offer of the Institute and carried out under professional supervision, will show you your own potentials and qualities. In “Trim” Hotel you can enjoy comfortable accommodation, simple but pleasant and warm interior, in lavish colors and modern design. . In winter, with the crackling of fire in the fireplace, here you can enjoy the beautiful view of the forest under the snow. In the summer, the hotel garden, in the shade under the dense tree tops, is the perfect place to refresh. Parents bring their children here to the big wooden pirate ship and children’s playground, where they can develop their motor skills. Great chefs will ensure that every meal is excellent, based on healthy diet, with the possibility to adapt to the specific needs of athletes and other guests. TO BE SURE ABOUT YOUR HEALTH At the Center for Sports Medicine you will be welcomed by doctors and medical staff with great academic knowledge and experience. Do not be surprised if, while you are filling out the form at the recep-
Unique The Institute for Sport and Sports Medicine Serbia offers a truly unique type of vacation and recreation. This is the most professional center for sports, health and nature in South Slavic region. From the Institute, they say, “Come to us, feel the magic of the forest, water and air – you will come back recuperated, stronger and healthier!”
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tion desk, Ivana Španović is standing next to you, Serbian champion in the long jump, or tennis player Jelena Janković. Or if you find yourself in the company of another world champion. The examinations that that can be done here, all in one place, to make sure of their health status, include: • Laboratory blood work • Anthropometric measurements • Cardiology examination • Anamnesis • Examinations by system • Postural status: examination of the spine, chest and feet • Functional testing of the respiratory and cardiovascular system With all these examinations, you will get an advice from specialists, who you will be able to continue to consult on everything related to your health ability to do sports. You will also have available experts in psychology of sport who will be happy to accommodate you if you express a desire to undergo psychological tests, or if just have concerns about the impact of the mind, stress and other factors on your health. In addition to them you will be met by experts at the Center for Analysis in Sports, the best of its kind in Southeast Europe. You will be able to determine your motor and functional abilities, through specially designed tests that are carried out on the state of the art measuring equipment. The tests cover all aspects relevant for the assessment of the level of training and identification of risk factors. These include: • Laboratory tests •M easurements on isokinetic dyna mometer • Direct assessment of cardiovascular endurance •K inematic analysis of postural status and movement (Qualisys system). FULL PROGRAM AND TRAINING TAILORED TO YOUR NEEDS After the conducted tests, you will get expert advice on what to do next. More importantly, you will get a personal training plan based on your medical condition and your motor skills. You can also ask for a personal trainer, who
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E X A M P L E S • Magnetic therapy • Laser therapy • Shock wave therapy • Vacuum therapy • Mechanical lymph drainage • Manual massage. It consists of six pools, both Olympic and those for diving, children’s pools and a small pool for the youngest ones. And next to the pool you can play foosball or volleyball on sand. In the evening, under the glow of the stars, the pool takes on a completely different look. The sound of the forest, fresh air and beautiful blue of the swimming pool will relax all your senses. A part of the complex of the Institute for Sport and Sports Medicine in Košutnjak in Belgrade
Photo: Archive of the Institute of Sport and Sports Medicine
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will make sure that such a training plan is implemented at the highest level. You will be able to implement the training plan, created especially for you by the best doctors and sports specialists, to help you achieve your maximum, at some of the facilities of the Institute. There are modern gym and the instructor. For those looking for fresh air and exercise in nature, the right choice will be the athletic stadium – the outdoor racetrack, completely surrounded by greenery, will help you to run or walk faster and easier, again and again creating a sense of victory over yourself. The tennis courts and playground for mini golf will complete your sports day, giving it a nice touch of white sports. In the immediate vicinity are open courts for handball, basketball, volleyball, football. For these sports you also have outdoor halls in the Institute’s Home of Sports, where there is the indoor pool. At the pool, there are various programs, from recreational swimming to special fitness programs in water. If you prefer a soft substrate and ancient techniques, the right place for you is the hall for martial arts and yoga. In the event that your body needs recovery and additional preparation for sporting activities, there is Institute’s Center for Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation. Upon the recommendation of a specialist, there you can have one of the following therapies: • Electrotherapy • Ultrasound therapy SRBIJA SPECIJALNO IZDAWE 2017.
MODERN SPORT CENTER ON THE DANUBE If you, however, prefer rivers and mountains, the Department can offer you “Karataš”, a sports complex on the banks of the Danube, in the municipality of Kladovo, behind the “Iron Gate” and right next to “Đerdap” National Park. In the natural surroundings, on an area of sixteen hectares, you have outdoor training facilities for more than twenty sports. On the outdoor courts, you can practice athletic disciplines, tennis, handball, basketball, volleyball... When the air from the Danube gets too sharp, you can hide in the shooting range, bowling alley or climb the artificial rock in a closed, multi-functional hall. If you go down on the river, which flows from the other side of the highway, along the entire sports complex, you can practice kayaking, sailing and rafting. And if you want to walk to the top of the Đerdap Gorge, experienced hikers can take you through the dense forest, on marked trails, all the way to the beautiful peaks from where you can have a breathtaking view of the Danube. This is the third year since the Institute and the Ministry of Youth and Sport of Serbia have been in the venture of reconstruction of all buildings and sports courts in “Karataš”. Guests can choose whether to stay in the new pavilions or older ones. Total capacity is 400 guests Good sleep and sports activities will be completed with excellent healthy food that is prepared in “Karataš” restaurant.
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