17
4!+--"%
!"#$%"#&'"#
('$)*+,-.
(%/.&$0#%"--#1/# "00"-#2,-#3-!"%&'
ON THE PHONE WITH .... ELLEN VON UNWERTH Ellen von Unwerth is one of the most successful fashion photographers in the industry; her illustrious career spans over 25 years since picking up her camera in 1986. Born in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, she spent her childhood in an orphanage and later with foster parents. When she was 16 years old, she worked as a ring card girl at the infamous Circus Roncalli. According to legend, it was at the circus where a photographer discovered her as a model. After an initial shoot for Germany´s most popular youth magazine “Bravo,â€? she attracted the attention of model agency Elite, which brought her to Paris and made her a super model. Ellen started with photography rather playfully during a shoot in Kenya. From top celebrities and super models, to the biggest labels and magazines, she has worked with them all. Almost. Join SchĂśn! to find out Ellen’s very own secrets for a relaxed atmosphere on set and who in the world of the bold and the beautiful are still missing from her list.
In your photography you appreciate the magic of the moment. What’s your personal status quo right now – in this moment, are you ready?
But has there ever been a case where someone accused you?
!"#$%&'&()*$+&$#,"&+-&).+"//01+%&2"3#04"&'&#(&#3+0#556&-.&#&4$--+&7)+$&8#+6& 9"//6%&4$"&)4&#3+0#556&4011-4":&+-&2"&$"/"%&20+&4$"&)4&4+)55&.-+&$"/";
N-%&.-+&+$#+&'&A.-7&-?;&O#62"&1"-15"&7/)+"&)+&-.&+$"&).+"/."+%&20+&6-0&A.-7%& 1"-15"&7/)+"&4-&(03$&4+0??;&'&$#,"&.","/&/"#:&)+;&'&:-&.-+&/"#:&7$#+&1"-15"& 4#6%&)+&)4&.-+&*--:&?-/&-."<4&41)/)+;
You are always described as a funny person who laughs a lot. Does â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;funâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; come naturally to you, or is it something you sometimes have to fight for?
We all know your images of women. What kind of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;image of womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; shaped you?
'&:-.<+&7#.+&+-&4#6&=>8%&'&#(&?0..6%@&20+&'&5-,"&+-&$#,"&#&*--:&+)("%&'&5-,"& +-&5#0*$%&'&5)A"&+-&3/#3A&B-A"4;&CD#0*$4;E&F$#+<4&7$#+&'&5)A"%&4-%&'&*0"44&'&#(& ?0..6;&CD#0*$4;E&G0+%&6-0&A.-7%&'&$#,"&#&:)??"/".+&4):"%&5)A"&","/62-:6&"54";& '&$#,"&(6&:#/A&4):"H&'&$#,"&(6&014&#.:&:-7.4;&'&#(&#54-&/-(#.+)3%&.-+&B04+& ?0..6;&'&#(&.-+&#&35-7.;
O6& :/"#(& 7-(#.& )4& O#/)56.& O-./-";& P-/& ("%& 4$"& )4& 5)A"& +$"& 1"/?"3+& 7-(#.L&4"I6&#.:&4".40#5%&7)+$&#&5)++5"&2)+&-?&.#Q,"+6&#.:&4+)55&$#4&+$"&3$)5:& ).4):"&-?&$"/;&F$#+<4&7$#+&'&5)A"%&4+/-.*&#.:&.-+&#?/#):&-?&2").*&4"I6%&20+&#& 5)++5"&2)+&.#Q,";&N-+&4-&(03$&).R6-0/R?#3"&#.:&,05*#/H&+$#+<4&(6&?#,-0/)+"& A).:&-?&7-(#.;&F$".%&'&#54-&5-,"&+$"&S"5(0+RN"7+-.&7-(#.;
How would you describe your darker side? Is it something you like to keep for yourself?
You mentioned inspirational icons, but was there an â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;image of womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in your past that shaped you?
'+&:"1".:4&-.&(6&(--:&#.:&7$#+&$#11".4&).&(6&5)?";&'.&(6&1)3+0/"4%&+$"/"& )4&#&5-+&-?&$0(-0/%&20+&'&#54-&5)A"&+-&"I15-/"&+$"&:#/A&4):"&-?&+$).*4;&J04+&5)A"& ","/62-:6&"54";&
You have blurred the line between fashion and fetish photography, and you have been and are being celebrated for it. Have you, on the other hand, ever been accused of taking the concept of overt sexuality and sadomasochism a step too far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
& N-+&).&(6&3$)5:$--:H&'&7#4&.-+&7)+$&#.62-:6;&'&+$).A&)+&3#("&5#+"/%&7$".& '&4+#/+":&+-&2"&).&?#4$)-.&#.:&'&4+#/+":&+-&2"&#&1$-+-*/#1$"/%&+$".&)+&2"3#("& (-/"&)(1-/+#.+%&20+&.-+&/"#556&2"?-/"&+$#+;
Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your opinion about the portraiture of age in fashion photography?& '&+$).A&)+<4&)(1-/+#.+&+-&4""&#55&#*"4;&'?&6-0&5--A&#+&(6&2--A&TP/U05").<&'& $#,"&#55&A).:4&-?&:)??"/".+&1"-15"&).&+$"/"%&?/-(&,"/6&6-0.*&+-&-5:"/&7-(".;& G"#0+6&3#.&2"&","/67$"/";&'&+$).A&)+<4&*/"#+&)?&#&7-(#.&-?&#&3"/+#).&#*"& 5--A4&2"#0+)?05&7)+$-0+&$#,).*&$#:&+-.4&-?&15#4+)3&40/*"/6;&'?&4$"&)4&1/-0:& +-&5--A&#+&$"/&#*"&#.:&4+)55&2"&2"#0+)?05&2"3#04"&4$"&$#4&*-+&#&1"/4-.#5)+6& #.:&)4&1/-0:&-?&7$-&4$"&)4%&+$".&+$#+<4&2"#0+6;&'+<4&*/"#+&+-&4$--+&7-(".& ?/-(&#55&:)??"/".+&#*"4%&20+&-?&3-0/4"&+$"&).:04+/6&7#.+4&6-0.*&1"-15"%&#.:& +$#+<4&+$"&7#6&)+&)4;
Do you observe a shift in the portraiture of age in fashion photography, is there something happening right now?
N-+&/"#556;&'+<4&(-/"&1$-+-*/#1$).*&-5:"/&1"-15"&#.:&/"+-03$).*&+$"(%&4-& +$"6&5--A&6-0.*&V&+$#+<4&+$"&A).:&-?&4$)?+&'&#(&?""5).*;&
Your models emphasise your humorous attitude and atmosphere on set. What are stress-factors for you that you take care to avoid in order to maintain that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
[5#0:)#&#.:&'&#/"&#&,"/6&*--:&3-(2).#+)-.;&Z$"&)4&B04+&403$&#&*--:&(-:"5H& 4$"&)4&.#+0/#5&).&?/-.+&-?&+$"&3#("/#%&4$"&)4&.-+&1-4).*;&'&5-,"&3#1+0/).*& 1"-15"%&'&:-.<+&5)A"&7$".&1"-15"&1-4";&[5#0:)#&)4&#(#\).*%&$-7&4$"&B04+& (-,"4&#.:&15#64H&4$"&)4&4-&30+"&#.:&4-&4"I6;&M"&7-/A&+-*"+$"/&,"/6&7"55H& +$"/"&#/"&.-+&(#.6&(-:"54&5)A"&+$)4;&'+&7#4&#&2)*&15"#40/"&#.:&/"#556&*/"#+& +-&7-/A&7)+$&$"/&#*#).;
What is your advice for all aspiring fashion photographers out there who are working towards their turning point right now in these times? F-&/"#3$&+$"&+0/.).*&1-).+&)4&$#/:&7-/A;&'&7-/A":&$#/:%&20+&'&#(&4-&1#44)-.#+"& #2-0+&7$#+&'&:-&+$#+&)+&:-"4.<+&/"#556&?""5&5)A"&7-/AH&)+<4&#&15"#40/";&P)/4+&-?& #55&6-0&$#,"&+-&2"&1#44)-.#+";&!-0&:-.<+&A.-7&7$#+&3#+3$"4&1"-15"%&#.:&6-0& 3#..-+&B04+&2"&5)A"&='&7#.+&+-&2"&?#(-04@;&!-0&$#,"&+-&+/6&-0+&+$).*4&#.:&:-& 7$#+&6-0&2"5)","&).;&W.:&+$".&(#62"&)+&$#11".4&-/&)+&:-"4.<+H&+$"/"<4&.-+& /"#556&#&/"3)1"&?-/&)+;
Apart from commissioned advertising, promotions and fashion editorials for the top publications, you also exhibit your work. Between 1994 and 2010 you have published seven photobooks: Snaps, Couples, Wicked, Revenge, Omahyra & Boyd, Fräulein and Die Spieler. Which one is your F$"/"&#/"&#57#64&."7&1"-15";&N-7&+$"/"<4&K((#&Z+-."%&'&B04+&4#7&#&(-,)"& favourite presentation form for your photography and why? You have worked with the most famous figures in the fashion and music industries, is there anyone left you dream of working with?
7)+$&$"/&#.:&'&+$).A&4$"&)4&,"/6&).+"/"4+).*;&P0..)56&".-0*$&'&.","/&7-/A":& 7)+$&[#("/-.&X)#\;&'&+$).A&7"&3-05:&2"&#&/"#556&*--:&+"#(%&20+&7"&.","/& $#:&+$"&3$#.3"&+-&7-/A&+-*"+$"/;&Z$"<4&?0.%&20+&-0/&1#+$4&$#,"&.","/&3/-44":;& '<:&5-,"&+-&7-/A&7)+$&W.*"5).#&J-5)"H&'&$#,".<+&4$-+&$"/&6"+&")+$"/;&F$"/"&#/"& 4+)55&1"-15"&-0+&+$"/"&+$#+&'&#(&"I3)+":&#2-0+&4$--+).*H&5-+4&-?&."7&4).*"/4;&
You have no formal training in photography; to what extent has this helped or hindered you through your career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
One of your first commissions for GUESS starred a 17-year-old Claudia Schiffer and is now described as the turning point in your career. Was this really your turning point? , ZDV YHU\ OXFN\ ZKHQ , GLG P\ Âż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`+$&#..),"/4#/6;&'+<4&#55&-,"/&+$"&).+"/."+H& )+&B04+&3#("&-0+&+-:#6;
9$-+-2--A4&#/"&*/"#+%&2"3#04"&+$"6&5#4+&#.:&+$"6&+-03$&:)??"/".+&1"-15"%& .-+&-.56&+$"&?#4$)-.&7-/5:;&P#4$)-.&(#*#\)."4&#/"&(-/"&?-/&#&/"4+/)3+":& 3/-7:&-?&1"-15";&'+<4&?0.&+-&7-/A&?-/&?#4$)-.&(#*#\)."4%&+$#+<4&7$#+&A""14& 1$-+-*/#1$6&*-).*;&G0+&#&2--A&)4&4-("+$).*&41"3)#5%&)+<4&(-/"&/"7#/:).*& #.:&)+&4+#64&?-/","/;&P#4$)-.&(#*#\)."4&".:&01&).&+$"&*#/2#*"&#+&+$"&".:&-?& +$"&7""A;&'&5-,"&"I$)2)+)-.4&+--%&7$".&+$"&1"-15"&3-("%&)+<4&B04+&.)3"&+-&4""& WKDW PDQ\ SHRSOH DUH LQĂ&#x20AC;XHQFHG E\ ZKDW \RX GR EHFDXVH \RX NQRZ ZKHQ '&7-/A%&'&:-.<+&/"#556&+$).A&#2-0+&)+H&'&B04+&:-&(6&+$).*;&
So you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a particular form you prefer? !"#$%&)+<4&+$"&7$-5"&3)/304%&)+<4&*/"#+%&#55&-?&)+;&'&#(&,"/6&503A6&+-&2"&).&+$"& 1-4)+)-.&+$#+&'&3#.&:-&+$)4;&'&$#,"&?-0/&"I$)2)+)-.4&+$)4&6"#/&#.:&#.-+$"/& 2--A&1/-B"3+;&W&5-+&-?&7-/A%&#&5-+&-?&?0.&#.:&)+&A""14&("&*-).*&#.:&7-/A).*;
Talking about the circus; you started your career by joining the circus; in what sense is the fashion industry, as a whole, one big global circus? P#4$)-.&)4&#&,"/6&41"3)#5&1#/+&-?&7$#+<4&*-).*&-.;&F-&3/"#+"&+$"4"&#(#\).*& 35-+$"4%&#.:&+$"&$#)/%&+$"&(#A"R01&#.:&+$"&(-:"54%&#55&+$"&3"5"2/)+)"4&a&'+<4& B04+&,"/6&3-5-0/?05&#.:&?055&-?&?#.+#46;&'&7-/A&7)+$&4-&(#.6&*/"#+&1"-15"%&).& #&7#6%&)+&/"#556&)4&#&3)/304%&)?&6-0&7#.+;&9"-15"&*"+&401"/&"I3)+":&#2-0+&B04+& RQH RXWÂżW DQG WUDYHO DOO RYHU WKH ZRUOG ,WÂśV D FUD]\ OLWWOH ZRUOG LQ LWVHOI DQG )+<4&2-+$&?0.&#.:&204)."44;&P-/&04&1$-+-*/#1$"/4&)+<4&*/"#+&2"3#04"&7"&3#.& "I1/"44&-0/4"5,"4&#.:&2"&3/"#+),";
Do you think you could make any woman look sexy, regardless of her size or how she looks? :HOO /DXJKV ÂŤ 7KDWÂśV D GLIÂżFXOW TXHVWLRQ 1RW HYHU\ERG\ QR $ FHUWDLQ SK\VLTXH FRXQWV DQG , OLNH ZRPHQ ZLWK SHUVRQDOLW\ DQG D OLWWOH WZLQNOH LQ WKH "6"4;&M-(".&5)A"&+$)4&#/"&"#4)"/&?-/&("&+-&3-.."3+&7)+$&+$"(;&'&5-,"&+$"4"& A).:4&-?&*)/54;&Z-("&7-(".&#/"&B04+&.-+&5)A"&+$#+&#.:&+$"6&:-.<+&7#.+&+-&2"& 5)A"&+$#+;&G0+&'&B04+&1$-+-*/#1$":&#&7-(#.&7$-&7#4&+7-&("+"/4&b`&3(H&4$"& 7#4&#&*)#.+%&#&,"/6&+#55&7-(#.;&Z$"&10+&-.&#&O#/)56.&O-./-"R7)*%&4-&4$"& 5--A":&5)A"&#&*)#.+&O#/)56.&O-./-";&Z$"&5--A":&#(#\).*%&#.:&4"I6;&F$#+<4& 4-("+$).*&6-0&7-05:.<+&"I1"3+&R&)+&7#4&*/"#+Y
How was it shooting her again? '&5-,"&[5#0:)#;&M"&$#,".<+&7-/A":&+-*"+$"/&,"/6&(03$&-,"/&+$"&6"#/4&20+&
!""#$%&'$%($)#*+,%,-.%/##$%0$+#*10#)#2% /3%4-.50-%6#0.
American fashion designer Narciso Rodriguez has been on the fashion radar since the early 1980s and has continued to climb up the ladder ever since. In 1997, one year after designing Carolyn Bessette Kennedyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wedding dress, he launched the signature collection of his own label. Kate Winslet, Salma Hayek, Claire Danes, Sarah Jessica Parker and Rachel Weisz are just some of the big stars that adore Rodriguezâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s puristic creations. He has worked with some of the biggest names in fashion, including Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Tse and Cerruti Paris, and he has never given up on pursuing his career, no matter what obstacles crossed his path. SchĂśn! took the opportunity to ask the prolific designer a few questions about his influences, style and future plans. Your parents were against your ambition to work in fashion, but you kept going. What is it that gave you this strong determination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
With your minimalist style, your clean forms and mainly monochrome and grey aesthetics, you are associated with the sportswear tradition. What is your personal definition of "sportswear" as a term, and how can it be seen in your work?
!" '05&" .1" .176#" /&1/'&*?" '0%&*" <&)12+" 4$502," *14&.#02,".#$.?*",102,".1"$//&$-"02"$"4$,$D02&" $"412.#"$3.&-".#&"*#1("$2+")17?''"2&%&-"*&&"0." $,$028"!"+12?."($2.".1"4$5&"*14&.#02,:"(#&.#&-" 0." <&" 6'1.#02," 1-" 3-$,-$26&" 1-" (#$.&%&-:" .#$." 3&&'*",&2&-06:"!"($2."*14&.#02,"%&-)"*/&60$'8
Some of the most beautiful women of our time are wearing your designs. Is there one amongst them who you feel represents the spirit of your label in its essence? A1"4$2)"(14&2"02*/0-&"4&"$2+"#$%&"<&614&"4)" 47*&*8" >#&)"$-&"$''"6#$-0*4$.06:"*4$-.:"*.-12," (14&2" $2+" .#&)?-&" $2" &6'&6.06" ,-17/=" .#&)" 614&"3-14"&%&-)(#&-&8">#&)"6$2"<&"4)"6'1*&*." 3-0&2+*:".#&"(14&2"!"(1-5"(0.#:"(14&2"!"*&&"12" .#&"*.-&&.:"(14&2"12".#&"*7<($)"1-"02".#&"/$-58" !"'1%&"(14&2"(#1"6$--)".#&4*&'%&*"(0.#"/-0+&:" (#1"-$+0$.&",-$6&"$2+"<&$7.)"3-14".#&"02*0+&8""
When you talk about the people you have worked with in the past, you like to mention Zack Carr, designer and creative director at Calvin Klein, who died from cancer in 2000. Looking back, what were A/1-.*(&$-" 0*" <$*06$'')" '1,06$'" +-&**02,=" the most important things you learned from him?
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
0.?*" 3726.012$'8" !.?*" 7*&37'" 31-" $''" $*/&6.*" 13" $" (14$2?*" '03&" <&6$7*&" (14&2" $'($)*" ($2." .1" 3&&'",11+"$2+"'115",11+"(#$.&%&-".#&)?-&"+102,8" !"'1%&"(1-502,"(0.#"$"*/1-.*(&$-"#$2+"&%&2"03" !?4" +&*0,202," &%&202,(&$-" <&6$7*&" 0." $'($)*" 3&&'*" 41+&-2" $2+" .#&-&?*" $2" &331-.'&**2&**" $2+" &$*&".1".#&"&%&202,(&$-".#$."(14$2"$//-&60$.&8
How would you describe the spirit of your label? >#&"*/0-0."13"4)"'$<&'"0*"6'&$2:"*&2*7$':"41+&-2" $2+"3&40202&8"!"$'($)*"'05&".1"*$)".#&"#17*&"13" B$-60*1"C1+-0,7&D"*.$2+*"31-".#&",-&$."+-&**"1-" 3-$,-$26&"$"(14$2"-&'0&*"12".1+$):".#$."*#&?''" ORYH WRGD\ LQ WZR PRQWKV LQ WZR \HDUV LQ ÂżYH )&$-*8"E"(14$2"126&".1'+"4&"12&"13"4)"+-&**&*" ($*"#&-"F,1G.1?"+-&**8"!."4$+&"4&"/-17+"<&6$7*&"
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
Your passion for architecture, which is reflected in your design, originates from your admiration for German architect Mies van der Rohe. What fascinates you about him and how do you transpose this fascination into your own work?
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
Supporting Barack Obama, you are a person who is outspoken in regards of your political view. What does political participation mean to you? !" #$%&" $" ,-&$." '1%&" $2+" -&*/&6." 31-" N-&*0+&2." O<$4$" $2+" $''" .#$." #&" #$*" $6#0&%&+" 31-" .#&" P20.&+" A.$.&*:" $*" (&''" $*" .#&" (1-'+8" !" $+40-&" #04".-&4&2+17*')"31-"#0*"*.-&2,.#:"/$**012"$2+" 617-$,&8"!".-)".1"*7//1-."#0*"6$4/$0,2"02"&%&-)" ($)"/1**0<'&"$2+"!".-)".1"'0%&"4)"'03&"02"$"($)" .#$."*7//1-.*"4)"/1'0.06$'"<&'0&3*8
You love photography, fine art and film and also take opportunities to work in those fields. Are you planning something right now that we might look forward to? E.".#&"414&2.:".#&-&"0*".$'5"13"/7<'0*#02,"$"<115" 13"4)"/#1.1,-$/#*:"<7."0.?*"*.0''"02".#&"+0*67**012" /#$*&"$2+"21"+$.&"#$*"<&&2"*&.8">#&"<7*02&**"13" 3$*#012"5&&/*"4&"/-&..)"<7*)".#&*&"+$)*8
A/&60$'">#$25*".1" B$-60*1"C1+-0,7&D" $2+".#$25")17"L1-,$2&"A(&&2&)"Q" NC";12*7'.02,"N$-0*"31-"6122&6.02,"7*8 R1-+*"S"A$*50$"C&0* !4$,&*"T">(1"3$<-06"61''$,&*"S" ;17-.&*)""13"B$-60*1"C1+-0,7&D
8 9(5686 8 !"#$%&#%'($)"*+'*,-*."',/0'0%'0/)12'*,-*."',/0'0%')/33+4 -'#,-*'0$*,'0$33'(/))%"*%)'5',-67%)'*8-$9-
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
0$33D!"#$!'4#>$4$.!'&$!4#$!#$&2$.H!2/&!321/.!-.! 4#$!/>4&'Q8'&'4#2($&9!U@$&B4#-(A!$>.$!.4$8.!3&28! 4#-.9!"#$!1$(4&'>!-)$'!%$#-()!>'/(1#-(A!;<;!-.! 4#'4!'(B2($!1'(!4'F$!5'&4!-(!4#-.!12(1$54=!&'4#$&! 4#'(!%$-(A!'!1>2.$)!12(1$54!4#'4!(2%2)B!F(2?.! '%2/49! U@$&B4#-(A! -.! >-8-4$)! $)-4-2(H! 4#$&$! -.! (2!$()>$..!.421F!./55>B9!C$!'&$!(24!#$&$!42!%$! D PDVV PHUFKDQGLVHU ZH DUH KHUH WR IXO¿O WKH ($$).!23!4#$.$!'4#>$4$.!'()!(2?!?$!1'(!%&-(A!4#$! 4$1#(2>2AB!42!$@$&B2($!32&!$@$&B)'B!/.$9
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
B2/&!%2)B!?2/>)!'>>2?!B2/!42!)2!/()$&!(2&8'>! 12()-4-2(.9!C$!#$'&)!4#$!.42&-$.!3&28!2/&!%&'()! '8%'..')2&.! D#-&>$B! "#285.2(! '()! E-1#'&)! *2(2@'(!'()!)-33$&$(4!'4#>$4$.!2/4!4#$&$!4#'4=!-3! 4#$B!?2/>)!#'@$!2(>B!%$$(!'%>$!42!.4'B!?'&8!2&! .4'B!122>=!4#$B!12/>)!#'@$!A2($!3/&4#$&9!C$!422F! 4#'4!'.!'!.4'&4-(A!52-(4!42!5/.#!4#$!>-8-4.!23!?#'4! %24#!.52&4.!'()!(2&8'>!4$74->$.!'&$!'()!4#$(!?#'4! 4#$B!1'(!%$!-(!4#$!3/4/&$=!42!./552&4!B2/!42!A2! 3/&4#$&=!42!&$'1#!%$B2()!B2/&!>-8-4.9
,-67%)2'()/9'-';)-&7$&>'@/$&*' /(' :$%02' 0,-*' 9-1%"' 8:8' -&' $&*%)%"*$&>' ;)-&7' (/)' 6/8' */'
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¿UVW SRS XS VWRUH 2(!4#$!+2&4#!X2>$9!
0$33D! :46.! '.! 8/1#! /.! ')@$&4-.-(A! '.! -4! -.! 2/&! %&'()! '8%'..')2&.=! E-1#'&)! '()! D#-&>$B9! C$! #'@$!'14/'>>B!%&'()$)!4#$!;<;!N/(A>$!E'1$!'()! 4#$!;<;!+2&4#!X2>$!E'1$=!?#-1#!-.!4#$!122>$.4! 8'&'4#2(! 2(! $'&4#9! :4! #'.! '! ?#2>$! -)$'>-.8! %$#-()!-4!4#'4!4#$.$!5$25>$!'&$!2/&!.42&B=!?#-1#!-.! ?#B!4#$B!'&$!2/&!%&'()!'8%'..')2&.9!D#-&>$B=!32&! $7'85>$=!-.!'14/'>>B!'!#24!?$'4#$&!&'1$&!'()!.#$! #')!'!@$&B!%')!$75$&-$(1$!)/&-(A!'!12>)!&'1$9!D#$! 5/.#$)!#$&.$>3!'()!A24!&$'>>B!#24!.2!.#$!422F!#$&! .#$>>Q5-$1$!233!'()!5'..$)!2/49!"#-.!P/.4!A2$.!42! .#2?!#2?!1&/1-'>!4#$!A$'&!-.!42!4#$!5$&32&8'(1$! 23!4#$.$!'4#>$4$.!'()!?#'4!1'(!#'55$(!-3!-4!A2$.! ZURQJ 1RZ WKDW ZH DUH VXSSRUWLQJ DQG RXW¿WWLQJ D#-&>$B=!.#$!)$1-)$)!42!A2!'#$')!'()!4&B!'A'-(9! C$!'-8!42!#$>5!#$&!42!'1#-$@$!4#'4!)&$'8=!'()!?$! '>>!F(2?!.#$!1'(!)2!-4Y!Z(1$!4#$!>'B$&-(A!.B.4$8! -.!4$.4$)!2(!D#-&>$B!'()!.#$!1'(!?$'&!-4!'()!(24! 2(>B! ./&@-@$! %/4! 5$&32&8! -(! 4#$.$! 12()-4-2(.=! 4#$(!?$!?->>!%&-(A!?28$(.?$'&!42!4#$!8'&F$49! 6FLHQFH ¿UVW 7KDW¶V KRZ ZH ZRUN WKDW¶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¿UVW 7KH SHRSOH ZKR ?2&F!32&!;<;!'&$!'>>!@$&B!?$>>!)&-@$(=!'4#>$4-1=! (24! ($1$..'&->B! -(! 4#$! &/((-(A! .52&4=! %/4! '>>! 23! 4#$8!#'@$!.28$!4B5$!23!'4#>$4-1!)-.1-5>-($9!!C$! #'@$!&/(($&.=!%'>>$&-('.!'()!.2!2(9!:!'8!'!I2A-H!:! )2!B2A'!'4!>$'.4!4?-1$!'!)'B!32&!'%2/4!4#&$$!42!32/&! #2/&.=!?$!'&$!4'>F-(A!'%2/4!#'&)12&$!B2A'9!:46.!'! >-3$.4B>$!'()!:!4#-(F!$'1#!8$8%$&!23!.4'33!#'.!4#$! ;!<UED;D!;!%/->4!-(42!4#$-&!*+,9!:!?2/>)(64! FDOO WKHP RYHUDFKLHYHUV EXW WKH\ DUH GH¿QLWHO\ #'&)!?2&F$&.!?#2!?'(4!42!/()$&.4'()=!?#2!?'(4! 42! )-.12@$&! '()! ?#2! ?'(4! 42! 5/.#! 4#$8.$>@$.9! :!?2&F!.$@$(!)'B.!'!?$$F!'()!:!'8!/5!'4!32/&! -(!4#$!82&(-(A9!Z3!12/&.$!-4!)$5$().!?#2!B2/! '&$!4'>F-(A!'%2/4H!8'B%$!(24!$@$&B2($!A$4.!/5!'4! T!'8=!%/4!4#'46.!%$1'/.$!4#$B!'&$!(24!$'4-(A!4#$! &-A#4!%&$'F3'.4Y
$*' "%%9"' 0%' -)%' *-31$&>' -;/8*' -' 0,/3%' @-#1->%' /(' %I*)%9%' 0$33D! ,(24#$&! 5'&4! -.! .21-'>! 8$)-'9! */&-(A! @%)(/)9-&#%2' (-",$/&' -&7' 4#$!+2&4#!X2>$!E'1$=!E-1#'&)!?->>!%$!4?$$4-(A! 3$(%"*63%+' ,/0' 0/837' 6/8' >-@$! 3&28! 4#$! +2&4#! X2>$! 2(! 2/&! ;<;! "?-44$&! 7%"#)$;%'*,%'"/83'/('8:8C
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¿FHV ZKR VSHDN 4#$! >'(A/'A$! '()! '&$! '%>$! 42! &$'1#! 4#$! >21'>! 12(./8$&=!>21'>!8'A'W-($.!'()!XE!'A$(1-$.9!D2! LQVWHDG RI EXLOGLQJ ELJ RI¿FHV ZH DLP WR NHHS 4#$!5&2)/14!1$(4&'>-.$)!#$&$!-(!]2()2(!%$1'/.$! -4!-.!'!V&-4-.#!)$.-A(!%&'()9!C$!?'(4!42!F$$5!4#'4! $4#2.!'>-@$!'4!'>>!4-8$.9
-(*%)' *,%' $&$*$-3' 3-8&#,2' 0,-*' -)%'*,%'&%I*'"*%@"'(/)'8:8C 0$33D! ! :! #25$! 4#'4! ?$! 1'(! 233$&! '! %&2')! '..2&48$(4! 42! )-33$&$(4! 4B5$.! 23! 5$25>$9! C#'4! 8'F$.!8$!12>)!)2$.(64!8'F$!B2/!12>)!'()!?#'4! 8'F$.! 8$! #24! )2$.(64! 8'F$! B2/! #249! C$! '&$! ?2&F-(A! 2(! 8')$! 42! 8$'./&$! 5&2A&'88$.! 32&! 4#$!$71>/.-@$!&/(($&.=!?#2!?'(4!42!#'@$!0/-1F! '()! $'.B! A$'&! 8')$! 32&! 4#$8! 42! $(#'(1$! 4#$-&! 5.B1#2>2A-1'>!'%->-4-$.9!
,/0'0/837'6/8'3$1%'*/'"%%'8:8' 7%:%3/@' $*"%3(C' -&6' $7%-"' *,-*' %:%&' 0$33' ,-"&.*' *,/8>,*' /(' 6%*C ,-67%)D!C#'4!:!?2/>)!>-F$!42!.$$!-.!5/44-(A! 82&$! 321/.! 2(! 4#$! >-3$.4B>$9! C$6@$! A24! 4#-.! 5$&32&8'(1$!5&2)/14!'()!-4!-.!A2-(A!42!%$!4#$!%$.4! LQ WKH ZRUOG DQG LW LV JRLQJ WR EH VSHFL¿F IRU WKH '14-@-4B9!:3!?$!8'F$!;<;!'!A2Q42!%&'()!32&!/>4&'Q &/(($&.!'()!4#$(!/.$!4#$!1288$&1-'>!524$(4-'>!42! 4&'(.52.$!-4!-(42!'!>-3$.4B>$!%&'()=!4#'4!-.!?#'4!:! ?2/>)!>-F$!42!.$$!-(!'%2/4!4?2!42!4#&$$!B$'&.!4-8$9! !"##$%$&'()*+$,'-*$ .**/$"/0*+-"*1*)$.($ 2'34"'$5*"3
!"#$#%&$#%'&$&!"()*+%&),%!"#)%!"#$#%&$#%-.!$&/'&$&!"()*
CD5,%$"E4#"'$%,3)%F&))%'00%G+""'H'%/3"&,(D,I% J%,'+)%'%01(,D&)%E1,3%6"D&%7"H1#)%$);1$)
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¿UVW DWKOHWH WR UXQ VHYHQ FRQVHFXWLYH PDUDWKRQV RQ VHYHQ FRQWLQHQWV LQ OHVV WKDQ ¿YH GD\V ³7KH DWWUDFWLRQ RI XOWUD PDUDWKRQLQJ LV WKDW \RX JHW WR FKDOOHQJH \RXUVHOI QRW MXVW SK\VLFDOO\ EXW DOVR PHQWDOO\ )/2&,1'%"'/)**@&"/&)&:)@&%0)%&@'3&<)/-%&2'&"/&@'3#&/'#1)*&*"(,+N&O'/';)/&,CB*)"/$5&J*%#)41)#)%0'/$&%)A,&B*)<,&3/2,#&)&3/"P3,&$,%&'(&<0)**,/.,$+&:0"<0& FDQ LQFOXGH GLI¿FXOW FOLPDWH FRQGLWLRQV :LWKLQ WKLV IUDPHZRUN 898 GLVFRYHUHG LWV YHU\ RZQ NLQG RI FKDOOHQJH WR ORFDWH DQG VDWLVI\ WKH QHHGV RI WKH GHPDQGLQJ QLFKH RI H[WUHPH VSRUWV SHUIRUPHUV ³$SSDUHO KDV DOZD\V EHHQ D GLI¿FXOW VXEMHFW IRU XV EHFDXVH WKHUH KDV EHHQ QRWKLQJ RQ WKH PDUNHW WKDW )<<'11'2)%,2&%0,&#3//,#$-&/,,2$&'3%&%0,#,+N&Q0'1B$'/&$0)#,$5&O3,&%'&%0,&031"2"%@&"/&%0,&D3/.*,+&#3//,#$&)#,&$')A"/.&:,%&:"%0"/&=?&$,<'/2$&)(%,#&%0,@& KDYH HQWHUHG WKH HQYLURQPHQW ³:H QHHG VRPHWKLQJ WKDW LV YHU\ OLJKWZHLJKW EHFDXVH LW¶V KRW DV ZHOO DV VRPHWKLQJ WKDW ZLFNV WKH VZHDW DZD\ EXW QRW WRR P3"<A*@+&$'&:,&2'/-%&2,0@2#)%,+N&,CB*)"/$&Q0'1B$'/5&L/&)22"%"'/+&D3/.*,&#3//,#$&#,P3"#,&B#'%,<%"'/&(#'1&3/);'"2)F*,&,/<'3/%,#$&:"%0&B*)/%$+&F#)/<0,$& DQG LQVHFWV ³2QH RI WKH ELJJHVW IHDUV LQ WKH MXQJOH LV JHWWLQJ ELWWHQ E\ D PRVTXLWR 2QFH \RX JHW D PRVTXLWR ELWH \RX DUH LWFKLQJ WKH ZKROH ZD\ DQG \RXU 1"/2&"$&B*)@"/.&%#"<A$&'/&@'35N& 2Q WKH RWKHU KDQG XQGHU SRODU FRQGLWLRQV XOWUD PDUDWKRQHUV IDFH H[WUHPH OHYHOV RI FROG ZLQG DQG VQRZ ³%HIRUH 898 ZH ZHUH GHDOLQJ PRUH ZLWK PXOWL IXQFWLRQDO PRXQWDLQ JHDU ´ 'RQRYDQ VKDUHV $W WKH 1RUWK 3ROH HYHU\WKLQJ KDV WR EH FRQGXFWHG LQ D VORZHU PDQQHU LQFOXGLQJ WKH UXQQLQJ ³+DYLQJ )&2#"/A&'(&:)%,#&0)$&%'&F,&<)#,(3**@&2'/,&F,<)3$,&"(&"%&$B"**$&'/&@'3#&<*'%0,$+&"%&:"**&(#,,R,5&Q0,&$)1,&)BB*",$&%'&,/,#.@&.,*$9&%0,@&(#,,R,&"(&%0,&#3//,#&B*)<,$& %0,1&"/&%0,&'3%,#&D)<A,%+N&0,&B'"/%$&'3%5&&G@&3$"/.&%0,&"/B3%&(#'1&%0,&#3//,#+&JKJ&0)$&1)/).,2&%'&2,$"./&%0,"#&E'2&S)<,&T)<A,%&:"%0&,)$@&)<<,$$&(#'1& WKH RXWHU OD\HU WR WKH LQQHU ÀHHFH OD\HU %XW LW¶V QRW RQO\ WKH SUDFWLFDOLW\ RI GHVLJQ WKDW PDWWHUV LQ ERWK KRW DQG FROG ZHDWKHU LW¶V DOVR WKH IXQFWLRQDOLW\ WKDW <'3/%$5&L/&O,<,1F,#&7?>>+&S"<0)#2&$,%&)&/,:&:'#*2&#,<'#2&('#&#3//"/.&%0,&(3#%0,$%&2"$%)/<,&)/@'/,&0)$&,;,#&<';,#,2&"/&)&$"/.*,&2)@&'/&%0,&(#'R,/&<'/%"/,/%+& ZLWK KLV $QWDUFWLF UXQ RI PLOHV LQ KRXUV PLQXWHV DQG VHFRQGV ³, ZRUH WKH &ROG 5DFH -DFNHW SURWRW\SH , ZDV DOPRVW WKH RQO\ RQH ZKR GLGQ¶W .,%&$'1,&2,.#,,&'(&0@B'%0,#1")&)%&%0,&,/2&'(&%0,&2)@&)/2&'/,&'(&%0,&#,)$'/$&:)$&%0)%&%0,&.,)#&$,,1,2&%'&F)*)/<,&1@&F'2@&%,1B,#)%3#,+N&O'/';)/&$)@$5&&
&,&0!&!1()%&22($,1)3%!(%0"4*12&.%2(),1!1()%&),%#)51$()'#)!&.%2.1'&!#
!"#$%&'()%*'(+),%-.
H"/<,&7?>?+&JKJ&0)$&F,,/&#,$,)#<0"/.+&2,;,*'B"/.&)/2&<'/23<%"/.&B#'%'%@B,&%,$%$5&L/&'#2,#&%'&#,)<0&%0,"#&.')*&%'&,P3"B&,C%#,1,&#3//,#$&:"%0&)BB)#,*&%0)%& KHOSV WKHP SHUIRUP WKHLU EHVW LQ WKH PRVW GLI¿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³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³:LWK LWV GRXEOH IXQFWLRQDO DSSURDFK FBFKDQJH DGDSWV DFFRUGLQJ WR WKH SK\VLFDO FRQGLWLRQ DQG WKH HQYLURQPHQWDO FOLPDWH $W WKH VDPH WLPH WKH PHPEUDQH LV ZLQG DQG ZDWHUSURRI ´ *DWWL $)@$5&H<0',**,#&Q,C%"*,$-&"//';)%";,&B#'23<%&#)/.,&"$&,/'#1'3$5&!'#&/':+&JKJ&('<3$,$&'/&H<0',**,#-$&$%#,%<0&:';,/&$'(%4$0,**&()F#"<$+&)$&:,**&)$&'/& WKHLU KLJKO\ HODVWLF VWUHWFK IDEULFV ZKRVH :% IRUPXOD FRQWDLQV WKH PXOWL IXQFWLRQDO FBFKDQJH PHPEUDQH $FFRUGLQJ WR *DWWL WZR \HDUV DJR FODVVLF VSRUWVZHDU DQG IDVKLRQ EUDQGV GLGQ¶W KDYH DV PXFK XQGHUVWDQGLQJ RI WKH UHODWLRQVKLS EHWZHHQ IDEULF WHFKQRORJ\ DQG SHUIRUPDQFH +H VD\V ³898 SLFNHG 3B&%0"$&.)B&F@&<0''$"/.&)2;)/<,2&B,#('#1)/<,&()F#"<$&('#&;,#@&0".04)<%";,&$B'#%$:,)#&%0)%&<'3*2&)*$'&F,&3$,2&('#&*,"$3#,:,)#5N&T3/.*,4#)<,#&H0"#*,@& 7KRPSVRQ HPSKDVLVHV WKDW VKH ZRXOG EH WKULOOHG WR ZHDU 898 LQ KHU GDLO\ OLIH DV ZHOO LQGLFDWLQJ ³$HVWKHWLFDOO\ LW¶V YHU\ SOHDVLQJ DQG WKH\ KDYH YHU\ <*,;,#*@&1)/).,2&%'&1)##@&)**&%0,$,&)$B,<%$&%'.,%0,#&F,%:,,/&B,#('#1)/<,+&(3/<%"'/)*"%@&)/2&F,)3%@5N&
3(1)3%6&27%!(%!"#%($131)%(8%!"#%)##,
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
:KHQ LW FRPHV WR EULQJLQJ WKH FRQFHSW DQG WKH IXQFWLRQDOLW\ RI WKH 898 SURGXFW LQWR ZHDUDEOH IRUPV WKH SHUVRQ WR PHHW LV +HUYp %HUWUDQG $ SURGXFW 2,$"./,#&)%&0,)#%9&0,&"$&%0,&O,$"./&O"#,<%'#&'(&%0,&S,/)3*%&Q#3<A$&O,$"./&H%32"'&)/2&"$&#,$B'/$"F*,&('#&%0,&B#'23<%&2,$"./&'(&%0,&/,:&,C%#,1,&$B'#%$:,)#& EUDQG ³, WU\ WR HQFRPSDVV ZKDW WKH DWKOHWHV QHHG DQG SXW LW LQWR WKH JDUPHQW ´ KH VD\V ³7KH GHVLJQ SURFHVV LV YHU\ VLPSOH EXW ZLWK HYHU\WKLQJ WKDW LV VLPSOH LW LV DOVR YHU\ GLI¿FXOW WR DFKLHYH LW¶V D QRWLRQ RI XQGHUVWDQGLQJ WKH VHTXHQFHV ´ %HUWUDQG HPSKDVLVHV WKDW 898 LV QRW WU\LQJ WR EH GLIIHUHQW MXVW IRU WKH VDNH RI EHLQJ GLIIHUHQW RU FKDQJLQJ WKH GHVLJQ MXVW IRU GHVLJQ¶V VDNH ³:H DUH FKDQJLQJ WKH GHVLJQ EHFDXVH DQ HYROXWLRQ LV QHHGHG ´ 6NHWFKLQJ DQG ¿QGLQJ RXW DERXW WKH DWKOHWHV¶ QHHGV DUH WKH PRVW LPSRUWDQW DVSHFWV WR UHPHPEHU WKURXJKRXW SURWRW\SH WHVWLQJ $FFRUGLQJ WR WKH GHVLJQHU LW LV DOO DERXW OLVWHQLQJ DQG WDNLQJ WKLV DV WKH VWDUWLQJ SRLQW WR LPSOHPHQW LPSURYH DQG WKHQ LPSOHPHQW DJDLQ ³:KDW ZH DUH WU\LQJ WR GR LV WR SURGXFH ZKDW LV QRW @,%&'3%&%0,#,5&G@&.'"/.&F)<A&%'&%0,&'#"."/&'(&%0,&/,,2+&:,&$%)#%&)**&%0,&%"1,&(#'1&$<#)%<0+&"/&'#2,#&%'&2"$%"*&"%&"/%'&)&()/%)$%"<&B#'23<%+N&0,&$0)#,$5&G,#%#)/2& $,,$&%0,&<'#,&'(&,C%#,1,&<#)(%$1)/$0"B&)/2&B#'23<"/.&)&.)#1,/%&%0)%&*"$%,/$&%'&%0,&)%0*,%,&)$&JKJ-$&3/"P3,&$,**"/.&B'"/%5&U':&%0)%&JKJ&0)$&%)A,/&"/%'& FRQVLGHUDWLRQ WKHLU UXQQHUV¶ QHHGV KRSHIXOO\ WKH JDUPHQWV UHVRQDWH ZLWK WKH DWKOHWHV 5LFKDUG 'RQRYDQ NQRZV KLV ¿QDO FKDOOHQJH ³7KH ¿QDO IURQWLHU LQ 3*%#)41)#)%0'/"/.&%0)%&L&:)/%&%'&<#'$$&"$&#3//"/.&%0#'3.0&%0,&6/%)#<%"<&F,<)3$,&"%-$&)&<'/%"/,/%&/'F'2@&0)$&,;,#&#3/&)<#'$$5&L&:'3*2&*"A,&%'&$%)#%&)%&'/,& VLGH RI WKH $QWDUFWLF DQG ¿QLVK DW WKH RWKHU VLGH RI WKH FRQWLQHQW ´
-5-%/%4(-%5#$*-*%4(-%/%&%'#!&0"($%8($%#5#$4,&4%.18#9%"(:%8&$%:1..%4(-%3(;