CUTTING WORKBOOK
The unique education programme of Sassoon Academy is based on 50 years of industry leadership and is intrinsic to the respected cut and color techniques of Sassoon. This work book, when used in conjunction with the abc DVD series and manual – Cutting Hair the Sassoon Way, forms a comprehensive training programme that, together with practical experience, will give you the tools to improve your technical expertise and develop your own cutting style. Thank you for choosing Sassoon Academy education.
MARK HAYES International Creative Director
C ONTENTS BONE STRUCTURE PSYCHOLOGY & CONSULTATION CONSULTATION EXERCISE ABC PRINCIPLES ABC PRINCIPLES: TECHNIQUE ABC PRINCIPLES: SHAPE ABC PRINCIPLES: SECTIONING ABC PRINCIPLES: GEOMETRY BLOW-DRYING ABC MATRIX
6 8 10 12 14 22 30 33 34 37
A: LINES A: SQUARE LINE WITH A FRINGE AB: LINE WITH GRADUATION AC: LINE WITH LAYERS ABC: LINE WITH GRADUATION AND LAYERING
39 41 45 49
B: GRADUATION B: GRADUATION BA: GRADUATION WITH A LINE BC: GRADUATION WITH LAYERS BAC: GRADUATION FROM A LINE WITH LAYERS
57 59 63 67
C: LAYERS C: CLASSIC LAYERS CA: LAYERS FROM A LINE CB: LAYERS AND GRADUATION CBA: LAYERS AND GRADUATION FROM A LINE
75 77 81 85
53
71
89
HAIRCUTTING REVIEW 93 CUTTING TERMINOLOGY 94 SUMMARY 96
BONE STRUCTURE When analysed carefully, each persons features are unique, therefore an understanding of bone structure is an important part of your training.
HEAD | The distance from the chin to the crown is the same as what?
Where is the midpoint of the face?
From the back of the head to the front hairline.
The midpoint of the face, when measured from chin to crown, is at the
base of the eye sockets.
EYES | The space between the eyes is the same width as what?
The space between the eyes is about the same
width as one eye.
The measurement from pupil to pupil of the eyes is equal to what?
The measurement from pupil to pupil of each
eye will be equal to the measurement from the bridge of the nose to the tip.
NOSE | The bottom of the nose is the midpoint between which features?
The bottom of the nose is the midpoint
between the eyes and chin.
EARS | The top of the ears align with what feature?
The nose and the outer tips of the eyebrows, and the bottom
of the ears with the with the tip of the nose, so the length of the ears is equal to the length of the nose.
MOUTH | What do the corners of the mouth align with?
of the eyes (when not smiling).
06
BONE STRUCTURE
The corners of the mouth align with centre
Where on the head are the following bone structures? Describe how to locate them:
PARIETAL BONE MASTOID PROCESS OCCIPITAL BONE
BONE STRUCTURE
07
PSYCHOLOGY & CONSULTATION It has been proposed that to become a successful hairdresser requires 10% ability and 90% psychology. While you may argue the ratio of these percentages, there is no doubt that without the ability to understand and interpret the wishes of another individual, the success of any hairstyle that you undertake will be compromised. It is generally accepted that the confidence of a client will be gained or lost upon first meeting, normally during the consultation. There are, therefore, many factors to be taken into consideration when first greeting your client in order to achieve a successful outcome:
The consultation is an opportunity to gain what?
The consultation is your opportunity to excite your client with
your imagination, creativity and desire to give them an individual hairstyle.
How many stages does a successful consultation have?
A successful consultation has three distinct stages and the
failure of any or all of these stages will be the cause of any later problems.
STAGE 1 Describe the first stage
The first stage is the listening and observing stage. Of course, you must look at the
client’s physique - their proportions and profiles - to help you choose suitable lengths and shapes.
What is an open ended question?
A question that cannot be answered with a yes or no, to gather information,
not just the ‘look’ required but the also the client as an individual.
Why is eye contact important during the consultation?
making process.
08
PSYCHOLOGY & CONSULTATION
To make the client feel involved in the decision
List 5 key points that are important in stage one. 1.
Check the clients physique
2.
How confident are they?
3.
What is their lifestyle?
4.
Use eye contact and reassuring gestures
5.
Be a good listener
STAGE 2 Describe what is important in stage two.
The second stage of the consultation is where you repeat the
information you have received and translate this into ideas for the hairstyle.
By the end of stage one and two the client should have a clear understanding of what?
By the end of these two stages
the client should have a clear understanding of the proposed look with regard to length, shape and finish.
STAGE 3 Describe this stage and what is involved.
The third stage is to agree on a course of action based on your
conclusions from stages one and two.
Your reputation is only as good as what?
Finally, remember that your reputation is ‘only as good as your last
haircut’ and that every client is a walking advertisement for your ability as a professional.
PSYCHOLOGY & CONSULTATION
09
CONSULTATION EXERCISE Find 5 different photographs of haircuts that you are unfamiliar with. Give yourself 10 minutes for each one and list the following points:
What shampoo and conditioner would you use?
What shape(s) are the haircut(s)?
What technique(s) have been used?
Where would you start and why?
What should your hand and body position be?
10
CONSULTATION EXERCISE
What type of sections would you use?
How would you blow dry and finish?
What products would you use for the finished look?
This exercise is designed to enhance your decision making process and to give you confidence in your craft. Carrying out this exercise often throughout your training will make your consultation process more efficient.
CONSULTATION EXERCISE
11
ABC PRINCIPLES Why are the triangle, square, and circle significant?
The triangle, square and circle are very significant as they
provide a recognisable basis upon which to explore shape and form. They formed a major part of the instruction at the Bauhaus School of Art in Germany in the 1920’s, and are used extensively in constructing contemporary artworks. This method lies at the heart of the Sassoon ethos. The headsheets and diagrams illustrate how the three fundamentals techniques of lines, graduation and layering can be used in isolation to create shapes that have an infinite number of variations when integrated with the geometric shapes of the triangle, square and circle.
Conduct extra research about the Bauhaus School of Art in Germany. Record your findings here.
12
ABC PRINCIPLES
Complete the key diagram below:
MAJOR SECTION CUTTING SECTION CUTTING LINE OVER DIRECTION OF THE HAIR SHOWS NO OVERDIRECTION
ABC PRINCIPLES
13
TECHNIQUE Explain: LINES
All sections are cut to the same plane allowing the hair to fall into its natural growth. A line is cut
without the use of elevation, tension or overdirection.
What are the two approaches to cutting a line? Explain each one and give an example from the matrix. 1.
On the skin: Gently press the hair against the skin using the fingers of back of the hand dependant
upon how much tension is wanted. Example A 2.
14
Holding the hair gently with the comb and cutting underneath it. Example: AB
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
Add images | photographs | tear sheets | drawings to show examples of lines. These images can be from: sassoon.com | Your own work | Your Instructor’s demo | Magazines | Other websites
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
15
TECHNIQUE Explain: GRADUATION
A build-up of weight. The amount is determined by the use of elevation.
This can create both internal and external shapes.
List the two forms of graduation. Explain each one and give an example from the matrix 1.
External graduation is a heavy build-up of weight and you will see a visual weight line which will sit
below the occipital bone. Example: BA 2.
Internal graduation is a much lighter build-up of weight with no obvious weight line which sits above
the occipital bone. Example: BC
16
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
Add images | photographs | tear sheets | drawings to show examples of graduation. These images can be from: sassoon.com | Your own work | Your Instructor’s demo | Magazines | Other websites
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
17
TECHNIQUE Explain: LAYERING
The removal of weight, created by holding the hair out from the head at a 90 degree angle or
higher. This technique controls the movement and texture of the hair.
List the three types of layering and explain each. 1.
Flat: Fingers are pulled straight out from the head to a flat plane. This slims down the weight in the
middle but leaves length at the top and bottom. 2.
Convex: A line that follows the shape of the head.
3.
Concave: Shorter in the centre and longer on the outside. Anti-head shape.
18
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
Add images | photographs | tear sheets | drawings to show examples of layering. These images can be from: sassoon.com | Your own work | Your Instructor’s demo | Magazines | Other websites
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
19
TECHNIQUE Explain ELEVATION
To lift the hair away from the head shape. Elevation defines the technique being used.
Create a diagram for elevation
20
ABC PRINCIPLES | TECHNIQUE
SHAPE Explain: ROUND SHAPE
A fluid shape descending from the front toward the back.
Create a diagram for a round shape:
22
ABC PRINCIPLES | SHAPE
Add images | photographs | tear sheets | drawings to show examples of round shapes. These images can be from: sassoon.com | Your own work | Your Instructor’s demo | Magazines | Other websites
ABC PRINCIPLES | SHAPE
23
SHAPE Explain: SQUARE SHAPE
A shape designed to balance the roundness of the head with corners, reaching equal
lengths in the front and the back.
Create a diagram for a square shape:
24
ABC PRINCIPLES | SHAPE
Add images | photographs | tear sheets | drawings to show examples of square shapes. These images can be from: sassoon.com | Your own work | Your Instructor’s demo | Magazines | Other websites
ABC PRINCIPLES | SHAPE
25
SHAPE Explain: TRIANGULAR SHAPE
A shape that progressively descends from the back toward the front.
Create a diagram for a triangular shape:
26
ABC PRINCIPLES | SHAPE
Add images | photographs | tear sheets | drawings to show examples of triangular shapes. These images can be from: sassoon.com | Your own work | Your Instructor’s demo | Magazines | Other websites
ABC PRINCIPLES | SHAPE
27
SHAPE Explain: OVERDIRECTION
To direct the hair away from the position in which it would naturally fall. Overdirection
controls the length and creates the shape. A major factor in creating the shape is determined by body position.
Create a diagram for overdirection
28
ABC PRINCIPLES | SHAPE
SECTIONING Explain: SECTIONING
Sections should mirror the image of the desired geometry for consistent elevation and
overdirection. Sections should also be appropriately sized to control the hair and fine enough to see the guide.
List three different sectioning patterns. 1.
Vertical
2.
Diagonal
3.
Horizontal
What effect does each one create? 1.
Vertical: Tendency to remove more weight
2.
Diagonal: Direction of weight follow angle of sections
3.
Horizontal: Major contributor in building weight
30
ABC PRINCIPLES | SECTIONING
Show the sectioning pattern that you would use in the following four examples. What would be the effect of the different sectioning patterns?
ROUND SHAPE USING EXTERNAL GRADUATION
ROUND SHAPE USING INTERNAL GRADUATION
ABC PRINCIPLES | SECTIONING 31
SECTIONING TRIANGULAR SHAPE USING EXTERNAL GRADUATION
TRIANGULAR SHAPE USING INTERNAL GRADUATION
32
ABC PRINCIPLES | SECTIONING
GEOMETRY
ABC PRINCIPLES | GEOMETRY 33
BLOW-DRYING BLOW-DRY | LECTURE Blow-Drying is a technique that is used to complement and finish a haircut. Blow-Drying enhances the style, creates movement and polish, but does not alter the style.
BLOW-DRY | HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BRUSH 5 ROW DENMAN BRUSH Ideal for short hair to flat wrap hairlines and fringes, produces very little lift.
7 ROW DENMAN BRUSH Ideal for medium length hair. Gives a medium amount of lift to the roots of the hair.
9 ROW DENMAN BRUSH Ideal for wrap drying longer hair and hair that requires tension. For a smooth finish.
VESS BRUSH Ideal for wrap drying with medium control. It creates a rounded, looser look to the finish.
PADDLE BRUSH Ideal to wrap and finish long hair.
34
BLOW-DRYING
BLOW-DRY | WRAP DRYING The action of ‘wrapping’ the hair around the head shape. The technique follows and works against the natural growth patterns of the hair. Use tension and overdirection to release the root movement. The head shape is the foundation for volume and bend. The dryer should move slowly over the hair to ensure an even application of heat. Always point the dryer in the direction that the hair is moving as this will flatten the tiny cuticles on the surface of the hair shaft and produce shine and movement. BLOW-DRY | LEAFING Leafing is the action of lifting the hair away from the head shape. Use clean sections to pick up the hair with the first rows of the brush, this will create tension and lift from the roots of the hair shaft and help to smooth the cuticles and create shine. Leafing can help promote root lift and neutralize unwanted waves or bends. The closer the brush is to the roots, the more the roots will lift. Working from the hairline up, use the same or similar sections that were used for the haircut. Make sure each section is dry before proceeding to the next. BLOW-DRY | BEVELLING The action of gently turning the ends of the hair under. BLOW-DRY | DIFFUSE Working with natural, textured or permed hair, first ensure an even distribution of product to give a balanced texture to the curl. Mould the hair into place with your fingers and/or comb. Start by diffusing the hair through the underneath and root area with a gentle lift of the fingers. Do not scrunch the hair while it is wet, this will cause the hair to frizz. Finally diffuse the top surface of the hair. BLOW-DRY | POINTS TO REMEMBER • Always work cleanly. • Use the most suitable brush & products for the texture and desired end result. Work from the hairline up to ensure and even finish. • Re-damp the hair if needed to help control the blow-dry.
BLOW-DRYING
35
BLOW-DRYING Describe the following Blow-dry techniques WRAPPING:
The action of ‘wrapping’ the hair around the head shape. The technique follows and works
against the natural growth patterns of the hair. Use tension and overdirection to release root movement. The head shape is the foundation for volume and bend. The blow dryer should move slowly over the hair to ensure an even application of heat. Always point the dryer in the direction that the hair is moving as this will flatten the tiny cuticles on the surface of the hair shaft and produce shine and movement. Leafing is the action of lifting the hair away from the head shape. Using clean sections pick up
LEAFING:
the hair with the first two rows of the brush, this will create tension from the roots of the hair shaft and help smooth the cuticles and create shine. Leafing can help promote root lift and neutralize unwanted waves or bends. The closer to the roots, the more the roots will lift. Working from the hairline up, use the same or similar sections that were used for the haircut. Make sure each section is dry before proceeding to the next. BEVELLING:
DIFFUSE:
The action of gently turning the ends of the hair under.
Working with the natural, textured or permed hair, first ensure an even distribution of product
to give a balanced texture to the curl. Mould the hair into place with your fingers and/or comb. Start by diffusing the hair through the underneath and root area with a gentle lift of the fingers. Do not scrunch the hair while it is wet, this will cause the hair to frizz. Finally diffuse the top surface of the hair.
36
BLOW-DRYING
LAYERS
GRADUATION
LINES
ABC MATRIX
ABC MATRIX
37
LINES
LINES | SQUARE LINE WITH A FRINGE
SQUARE LINE WITH A FRINGE
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Bone structure
2.
Hairlines and growth patterns
3.
Texture and density
4.
Parting
5.
Clients image and style
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Current likes and dislikes?
2.
Partings?
3.
Desired length?
4.
How do they style their hair at home?
5.
Lifestyle?
42
a
SQUARE LINE WITH A FRINGE
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
Line, Option 1
Square
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Back: Horizontal diagonal
Sides: Horizontal
Nape, centre back
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
Hands: Back on skin, finger tension, sides through the comb.
Body: Stand in front of your sections FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Will vary client to client
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap, Leaf, Bevel
SQUARE LINE WITH A FRINGE
a
43
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS SQUARE LINE WITH A FRINGE SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES OPTION 1
OPTION 2
44
a
SQUARE LINE WITH A FRINGE
LINES | LINE WITH GRADUATION
LINE WITH GRADUATION
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Hairline (how high/low is it)
2.
Growth patterns (nape, crown & front profile)
3.
Face shape, body proportions
4.
Ears/skull shape
5.
Client’s image/style - texture/density
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
When was the hair last cut?
2.
How do they style their hair at home?
3.
What length are they comfortable with?
4.
Likes and dislikes?
5.
Lifestyle?
46
ab
LINE WITH GRADUATION
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
A - Line first
B - Graduation second
Line - Square (can be triangular or round)
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Line - Option 2
Graduation - Triangular
Graduation - Diagonal
Back nape for both
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
Line - Standing in front of your section
Graduation: Standing in the back using palm to palm FINISHING PRODUCTS:
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrapping, leafing, bevelling based on the individual
LINE WITH GRADUATION
ab
47
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS LINE WITH GRADUATION SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
48
ab
LINE WITH GRADUATION
LINES | LINE WITH LAYERS
LINE WITH LAYERS
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Hairline (how high/low is it)
2.
Profile: Face shape/ears/skull shape
3.
Body proportions
4.
Client’s Image/style
5.
Texture/density
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
When was the last haircut?
2.
How do they style their hair at home?
3.
What length are they comfortable with?
4.
Likes and dislikes?
5.
Lifestyle?
50
ac
LINE WITH LAYERS
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
A- Lines
C - Layers
A - Triangular
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
C - Triangular
A - Option 2
A - Back, nape area
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
C - Vertical sections
C - Centre back
A - Stand in front of your sections cutting palm to palm
C- Stand to the
opposite side you are cutting, can be cut over the fingers or palm to palm. Same method on the other side. FINISHING PRODUCTS:
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrapping, leafing, bevelling based on the individual
LINE WITH LAYERS
ac
51
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS LINE WITH LAYERS SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
52
ac
LINE WITH LAYERS
LINES | LINE WITH GRADUATION AND LAYERING
LINE WITH GRADUATION AND LAYERING
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Texture
2.
Density
3.
Profile
4.
Head Shape
5.
Ears
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Desired length?
2.
How do they style their hair?
3.
Do they use products?
4.
Lifestyle?
5.
How often do they get a haircut?
54
abc
LINE WITH GRADUATION AND LAYERING
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
A- Lines
B - Graduation
A - Triangular
SECTIONING PATTERN:
C - Layers
A - Triangular Round in front
A - Horizontal Diagonal
C - Triangular
B - Horizontal Diagonal - Diagonal in front
C - Vertical pivotal
START POINT:
A - Nape
B - Nape
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
C - Crown/Parietal ridge
A - Palm to floor
B - Palm to floor
C - Over the fingers
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Diffuse dry
LINE WITH GRADUATION AND LAYERING
abc
55
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS LINE WITH GRADUATION AND LAYERING SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
56
abc
LINE WITH GRADUATION AND LAYERING
GRADUATION
58
b
GRADUATION
GRADUATION | G RADUATION
GRADUATION
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Hairlines
2.
Growth Patterns
3.
Bone structure / face shape
4.
Texture
5.
Density
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Desired length?
2.
Maintenance?
3.
Products?
4.
Parting?
5.
Last haircut?
60
b
GRADUATION
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
B - Graduation (Internal)
Back & Sides = round
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Vertical Diagonal (Sides)
Side: Temple area
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Top = Triangular
Vertical (Top)
Top: Crown
B - Palm to Palm
C: Over the fingers
Body: B - In front of the workspace
To suit the individual
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap, leaf, bevel
GRADUATION
b
61
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS GRADUATION SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
62
b
GRADUATION
GRADUATION | GRADUATION WITH A LINE
GRADUATION WITH A LINE
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Growth Patterns (Hairlines, Nape, Crown)
2.
Headshape
3.
Profile/Facial features/Ears
4.
Hair Texture and Density
5.
Partings
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
What is their lifestyle like?
2.
When was their last haircut?
3.
Do they use products?
4.
What is their maintenance?
5.
Desired Length?
64
ba
GRADUATION WITH A LINE
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
BA, B = External Graduation
A = Line
B + A Triangular
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
B) Vertical diagonal into horizontal diagonal
B Nape, below occipital bone
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
A) Horizontal Diagonal (option 2)
A) Occipital bone
Hand: Palm to palm. Body: Centerback and slightly to the side for graduation,
in front of workspace for the line. FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Whatever is suitable for the client
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap, leaf, bevel. Choose whichever blow drying techniques that are suitable for
that individual client.
GRADUATION WITH A LINE
ba
65
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS GRADUATION WITH A LINE SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
66
ba
GRADUATION WITH A LINE
GRADUATION | GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Headshape
2.
Density
3.
Hairlines
4.
Growth Patterns
5.
Ears
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
When was your last haircut?
2.
How often do you get a haircut?
3.
Likes and dislikes?
4.
Length desired?
5.
How do you style you hair?
68
bc
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
B - Internal Graduation
B - Triangular
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
C - Flat Layers
C - Triangular
B - Vertical Diagonal
B - Centre back
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
C - Horizontal
C - Crown
B - Palm to Palm - Moving around the chair
C - Over the fingers - standing
in the back FINISHING PRODUCTS:
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap, Leaf and Bevel
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
bc
69
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS GRADUATION WITH LAYERS SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
70
bc
GRADUATION WITH LAYERS
GRADUATION | GRADUATION FROM A LINE WITH LAYERS
GRADUATION FROM A LINE WITH LAYERS
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Hairlines
2.
Growth patterns
3.
Bone structure
4.
Density
5.
Ears
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired?
2.
How often do you get a haircut?
3.
How do you style your hair?
4.
Lifestyle?
5.
Likes and dislikes?
72
bac
GRADUATION FROM A LINE WITH LAYERS
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
B - Graduation
B - Triangular
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
A - Line
A - Round
C - Flat Layer
C - Square
B - Horizontal Diagonal
B - Centre back
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
A - Centre back
A - Horizontal Diagonal
C - Horizontal Diagonal
C - Top
B - Palm to palm / Back and sides
A - Palm to floor / Back and sides
C - Over the fingers / Standing at sides FINISHING PRODUCTS:
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap, Leaf and Bevel
GRADUATION FROM A LINE WITH LAYERS
bac
73
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS GRADUATION FROM A LINE WITH LAYERS SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
74
bac
GRADUATION FROM A LINE WITH LAYERS
LAYERS
76
c
LAYERS
LAYERS | CLASSIC LAYERS
CLASSIC LAYERS
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Headshape
2.
Density
3.
Texture
4.
Growth Patterns
5.
Body Proportions
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired?
2.
How do you like the length around the ears?
3.
Do you use products?
4.
Lifestyle?
5.
How often do you get your haircut?
78
c
CLASSIC LAYERS
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
C - Convex Layers
C - Round
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
Vertical Pivotal
Centre Top
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
FINISHING PRODUCTS:
Over Fingers / Moving around the chair
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap dry
CLASSIC LAYERS
c
79
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS CLASSIC LAYERS SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
80
c
CLASSIC LAYERS
LAYERS | LAYERS FROM A LINE
LAYERS FROM A LINE
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Density
2.
Growth Patterns
3.
Hairlines Texture
4.
Bone structure
5.
Hairlines
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length Desired?
2.
Lifestyle?
3.
Likes and dislikes?
4.
Fringe or no fringe?
5.
How do they style?
82
ca
LAYERS FROM A LINE
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
C - Concave Layers
C - Round
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
A - Line
A - Square
C - Vertical Pivotal in back / Vertical on sides
C - Centre back
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
A - Horizontal Diagonal
A - Nape - Centre back
C - Over Fingers / Standing in the back
A - Palm to Floor / Standing at
the back and sides FINISHING PRODUCTS:
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap, Leaf and Bevel
LAYERS FROM A LINE
ca
83
TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS LAYERS FROM A LINE SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
84
ca
LAYERS FROM A LINE
LAYERS | LAYERS AND GRADUATION
LAYERS AND GRADUATION
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Bone structure
2.
Density
3.
Hairlines
4.
Ears
5.
Profile
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired?
2.
How often do they get a haircut?
3.
When was the last haircut?
4.
How do they like the length around the ears?
5.
Do they use any styling products?
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LAYERS AND GRADUATION
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
C - Convex Layers
C - Round
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
B - Internal Graduation
B - Round
C - Vertical Pivotal
C - Centre
B - Vertical Diagonal
Top B - Sides
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
C - Over the fingers / Standing at the sides moving around the chair
B - Palm to palm / Sides and back FINISHING PRODUCTS:
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap
LAYERS AND GRADUATION
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TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS LAYERS AND GRADUATION SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
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LAYERS AND GRADUATION
LAYERS | LAYERS AND GRADUATION FROM A LINE
LAYERS AND GRADUATION FROM A LINE
CONSULTATION List 5 key things that need to be visually checked 1.
Texture
2.
Density
3.
Hairlines
4.
Growth Patterns
5.
Face shape
List 5 key questions that need to be asked 1.
Length desired?
2.
How do they style their hair?
3.
Lifestyle?
4.
Length of fringe / face framing?
5.
Likes and dislikes?
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LAYERS AND GRADUATION FROM A LINE
TECHNIQUE:
SHAPE:
C - Concave Layers
C - Round
SECTIONING PATTERN:
START POINT:
B - Round
B - Graduation
A - Square
C - Vertical Diagonal into Diagonal
C - Front - Frontal bone
HAND AND BODY POSITION:
B - Vertical Diagonal A - Horizontal
B - Front - 45 degrees from the face
A - Nape - Centre back
C - Over fingers / In front of client and standing at the sides
B - Palm to palm / In front of client FINISHING PRODUCTS:
A - Line
A - Palm to floor / Standing at the back
As per student
BLOW-DRY TECHNIQUES:
Wrap, Leaf and Bevel
LAYERS AND GRADUATION FROM A LINE
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TECHNICAL DIAGRAMS LAYERS AND GRADUATION FROM A LINE SECTIONING + CUTTING LINES
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LAYERS AND GRADUATION FROM A LINE
HAIRCUTTING REVIEW LINE - 0 degrees, all sections cut to the same plane. Natural growth. Name & define each ABC technique Cut without elevation, tension or overdirection. GRADUATION - A build up of weight determined by the use of elevation. LAYERS - A removal of weight, created holding the hair at a 90 degree angle or higher. Controls movement and texture of the hair. Name & define each basic shape
ROUND - A fluid shape descending from the front to the back.
SQUARE - A Designed to balance the roundness of the head with corners. Equal lengths in the front and back. Define overdirection
To direct the hair away from where it naturally falls. Controls length and creates
the shape.
Define elevation
To lift the hair away from the head shape. Defines the technique.
Define tension
The degree of stress placed on the hair. It is a major factor in determining the characteristic of the line.
Define cutting angle
The angle that is being cut into the hair and how it relates to the bone structure.
Name and define the four techniques used to dry hair
WRAP - The action of wrapping the hair around the head
shape. LEAFING - The action of lifting the hair away from the head shape. Creates tension and lift from the roots of the hair shaft. Smoothes the cuticles and create shine. BEVELLING - The action of gently turning the ends of the hair under.
HAIRCUTTING REVIEW
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CUTTING TERMINOLOGY AREA A specific place on the head e.g. the nape area. ASYMMETRIC A non-identical balance of length or weight in a haircut . BALANCE A harmony of design and proportion. Areas are matched with each other to give equilibrium . BEVEL / BEVELLING A rounding of a sharp edge to give a crafted smoothness. The action of turning the ends under after the blow-dry. BIAS CUTTING Cutting diagonally across the hair (inspired by the 1930s fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet who bias cut cloth). BLEND To combine or mix different elements both technically and visually. CHEVRON A V-shaped section predominately used in colour. CONCAVE An inwardly curving line that is shorter in the centre and longer on the outside. Runs in opposition to the contours of the head. CONVEX A line that follows the shape of the head or can bow outward to accentuate it. CORNERS Used to work against the natural roundness of the head shape. Can be placed anywhere within the overall hair design. CROSS-CHECKING A system used to ensure the hair design is technically proficient. Checking is carried out in the opposite direction in which the design was created. CROWN The area at the top of the head where the growth pattern of hair originates. CUTTING ANGLE After determining the bone structure and the final hair design, this is the angle at which the hair is cut. DEFINITION To add strength of line or definite structure to an existing shape or finish. DEPTH The degree of lightness or darkness of a colour. DIAGONAL Any section taken across the head on an angle of between one and ninety degrees. DIFFUSE 1 To blend different / complementary colours / tones / textures to create a subtle visual mix. DIFFUSE 2 To blow dry textured hair using an attachment on the dryer. DISCONNECTION An area within a haircut where the lengths are not connected technically. ELEVATION A technique used to lift the hair away from the head shape. EXPANDED FORM The shape revealed when the hair is displayed at 90° out from the head. FADING The gradual blending of hairlines into the neck area. FLAT 1 Creating corners where the head naturally rounds to create a square shape. FLAT 2 Drying to create the minimum amount of volume. FREEHAND Cutting the hair without the use of club cutting to give a more textured look to the hair design. Colouring techniques can also be applied freehand. FRONTAL BONE The bone that forms the forehead and roof of both eye sockets. A focal point for deciding the best hair shape. GLOSS Denotes the lustre and shine of hair. GRADUATION A technique that builds up weight in hair. The amount of graduation is determined by the use of elevation / tension and can create both internal and external shapes. GROWTH PATTERN The natural direction in which the hair grows. GUIDE LINE The section of the hair from which lines flow in a haircut. The guide line determines the length of subsequent sections. HAIRLINE The boundaries of significant hair growth on the head. HORIZONTAL Used in techniques of line and graduation. Horizontal sections are used to build up more weight in a hair design. INTERNAL The shape within the outline of the haircut. LAYERING Technique used to remove the weight in a cut so that the movement and texture of the hair can be controlled.
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CUTTING TERMINOLOGY
LINES Hair that is cut to follow the fall of its natural growth without the use of elevation. MASTOID PROCESS A bone, located behind the ear is taken into consideration when determining the appropriate hair design particularly in shorter haircuts. NAPE The area of the neck below the occipital bone. OCCIPITAL BONE Bone situated at back and lower part of cranium. Key area to focus on when determining a short hair design. OUTLINE The external edge of a haircut. OVERDIRECTION To direct the hair away from its natural fall, which will define the shape being created. OXIDANT An agent that supplies extra oxygen to a tint or bleach. PARIETAL BONE Bones that form the roof and sides of the cranium and run between the frontal and occipital bones. PARALLEL A line or section that mirrors the angle of the previous one. PLANE Any flat/level surface to which the hair is directed when cutting. ROUND The fullness of the hair is directed towards the back of the head and away from the face leaving. flatter planes to complement the natural shape of the scalp, as well as disguise narrow bone structure. REFINE To add the finishing touches and detailing to a hair design after a visual evaluation. SECTION Denotes the specific area of hair to be cut / coloured. The shape of the section taken in some ways determines the final shape. SLICE A fine unbroken section of hair that has been / will be coloured. SQUARE To take away the roundness of a hair shape by creating corners of equal length. SYMMETRY An equal balance of weight and/or length. TECHNICAL A structured and precise method that achieves a specific result. TECHNIQUE The specific processes and principles used to cut and colour hair. TEMPLE The flat portion that lies either side of the head above the cheekbones. TENSION The degree of stress that can be placed on the hair. Tension is a key factor in determining the characteristic of a line. TEXTURE The natural movement of the hair. TRIANGULAR A shape that descends progressively from the back to the front. TONE The quality of a given colour when placed next to another colour. Can be a warm or cool tone depending on the hue used. VERTICAL Upright sections that when used in their simplest form have a tendency to remove more weight. VOLUME The amount of fullness within a shape. WEIGHT An area of heaviness in a haircut which tends to be blended into the shape. WEIGHT LINE A band or edge of heaviness in a haircut that can be used either to define a haircut or round it off. WRAP DRY To dry the hair around the head shape following the natural growth patterns of the hair. ZYGOMATIC BONES Form cheekbones at upper and lateral part of the face.
CUTTING TERMINOLOGY
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SUMMARY ONGOING INSPIRATION By choosing the Sassoon Connect you have made a wise decision. Indeed this Sassoon Connect course is the beginning of a career long journey, one that is constantly ongoing. At Sassoon Academy we share knowledge with hairdressers on post graduate courses who are truly successful in their career path. The common denominator of successful hairdressers is that they constantly update their creativity and technical skills with ongoing education. As an exclusive graduate Sassoon Connect, we at Sassoon Academy want you to be part of this journey, as such you are entitled to exclusive savings on Sassoon Academy post graduate education. To take advantage of this make sure that you enquire with you’re Sassoon Connect team leader. PROFESSIONAL TOOLS Sassoon Academy has a range of professional tools that are designed and tested by our International Creative Team of Stylists, Colourists and Instructors for quality, performance and reliability. They reflect our relentless pursuit of functional, well designed items that will be appreciated by hairdressers and students utilizing the Sassoon way of cutting and colouring hair, and who have a passion for excellence. Again as a student of Sassoon Connect, you are entitled to savings on Sassoon Academy professional tools while in school. To take advantage of this make sure that you enquire with you’re Sassoon Connect team leader. AT SASSOON ACADEMY OUR AIM IS TO SHARE THE KNOWLEDGE THAT WE GAIN IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF OUR CRAFT.
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SUMMARY
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