WE’RE CELEBRATING OUR 50TH YEAR OF THIS FAMILY AFFAIR and we are reflecting on the people and businesses that have supported three generations of our family business.
We are so filled with appreciation for the enduring relationships we have built and the incredible growth we’ve both witnessed in our partners and have been fortunate to enjoy ourselves.
We are in awe of your unwavering support.
Thank you, Calgary, from every one of us in the IZZO FAMILIA
50 Y EARS OF COFFE E & FAMILY
Chef Kenny Kaechele and his family grew entwined with our family over the years, and we couldn’t be prouder to introduce him as a partner in success and a friend. Not only did our sons grow up and play hockey together, but our businesses also crossed over at so many exciting junctions over the years. Kenny’s path to becoming the standout and highly creative restauranteur he is today wound through
many of Calgary’s finest restaurant kitchens. Today, he – like my father and I did - is energized and enthralled to watch our sons grow our businesses. He believes “the experience and service is simply ‘next level’ when people with the same last name share the work.” – Peter
Kenny Kaechele | Owner/Chef KAMA
Javen Kaechele | Restaurant Manager KAMA
WE SUPPLY IN-THE-KNOW CALGARIANS WITH LOCALLY ROASTED TRUE ITALIAN-STYLE COFFEE AND PRETTY MUCH EVERYTHING ELSE THAT GOES ALONG WITH IT.
WE CARRY AND SERVICE:
Idon’t want to brag, but I went to St. Francis High School. While it’s certainly known for its football, it might be most famous, at least at the time, for being “the Italian school.” While I can’t provide accurate statistics, I can vouch for the fact you were just as likely to bump into an Audia or Olivetti in Biology class as you were a Smith or a Jones. It wasn’t unusual to hear Italian spoken down the infamous “B-Hallway” or on the football field. I learned my fair share of “parolacce” in my years there.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Camie Leard COVER
This gorgeous cornucopia of tomatoes was styled and shot by Calgary photographer and ceramicist Linh Ly
Being of Eastern European lineage myself, I might have felt left out in that sea of paesani. But, if you know Italians, you know that’s never the case. When you’re in their midst, you’re family. It might surprise you that I didn’t move in the sports circles myself, but the food at our theatre program cast parties was out of this world. In fact, one of my co-stars (I use the term loosely) in a one-act musical belonged to the family that owned the now-gone Mamma’s Ristorante (the Silver Fox Saloon currently resides in the space). I’ll never forget that enormous lasagna. So, while I’m not Italian, sometimes I feel Italian, especially when it’s time to eat. This Harvest issue of Savour Calgary is a celebration of Italian families and Italian food. So many of our early city builders came from Italy to find a new life and better fortune in Canada. And as they fed their own families, they began to feed ours too. The ingredients, recipes, products and traditions they imported filled our pantries and ovens and tables. Because back then, and to this day, Italians share food, laughter and love with such enthusiasm that the delicious legacy of stores and restaurants they’ve created have become part of the very soul of this city. Let’s face it, when we dive into a big plate of pasta at our favourite ristorante, we’re all a little bit Italian. Buon appetito!
PUBLISHER
Debbie Lambert debbie@savourcalgary.ca
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Camie Leard | camie@savourcalgary.ca
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Ellen Kelly | ellen@savourcalgary.ca
COMMUNICATIONS & MARKETING MANAGER
Wanda Baker | wanda@savourcalgary.ca
MAGAZINE DESIGN
Cheryl Starr Design Group | stellardesign.ca
COVER
These gorgeous tomatoes were styled and shot by Calgary photographer and ceramicist Linh Ly
CONTRIBUTORS
Shelley Boettcher
Erin Jenkins
Ellen Kelly Linh Ly
Alison Martin
Ceilidh Price
Susan Turnbull
Tim Williams
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES advertising@savourcalgary.ca
WEBSITE TECHNICAL ADVISOR
Todd Robertson
Savour Calgary is a bi-monthly | magazine published by Savour Calgary Ltd. Savour Calgary is published six times per year. Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Summer, Fall, Holiday
CONTACT INFORMATION
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Salt & Pepper Mexican Restaurant has cemented its place in Calgary’s culinary landscape, with a spot last year on Diners Drive-Ins and Dives with celebrity chef, Guy Fieri. Mexican-born French-trained Executive Chef Silvio Solano immigrated to Canada in 1969 to work for CP Hotels (now Marriott International Hotels) and eventually became the head chef of the Petroleum Club. Once his children were grown, he ventured into opening his own restaurant with his middle son Alexo Solano. The Solano family opened the first Salt & Pepper Restaurant on Macleod Tr. in 1988, with son Alejandro moving into the role of general manager. The family business has persevered through trials ranging from floods a pandemic, and while several locations have closed over the years, the Bowness establishment remains. It’s been revitalized with a renovation, revamped menu and the addition of Executive Chef Alonzo Zarco from Mexico City. Chef Zarco skillfully balances the preservation of Silvio’s classic dishes while introducing lesser-known regional Mexican cuisine. The mole sauce is derived from the western state of Michoacán and is a must-try. The Barbocoa Dinner for 2 is a great deal featuring tortillas, barbocoa, crema, cilantro, onion curtido and chocolate cake. The new brunch offering on Saturdays and Sundays is the best way to start the day and we fell head over heels for the Churro French Toast, topped with vanilla ice cream and served with either a hibiscus sauce or dulce de leche. In fact, it just might be one of our new favourite things.* Salt & Pepper Mexican Restaurant | 6515 Bowness Rd. N.W. | 403.247.4402 | saltnpepper.ca
Award-winning restaurant CHARCUT has doubled down on deliciousness by unveiling a brand-new location in the city’s University District . Connie DeSousa and John Jackson’s new restaurant features a bright, open kitchen with a rotisserie and smoker sending smoke signals through the restaurant making you hungry for more. Guests can witness the culinary magic though massive windows as chefs handcraft their signature salumi and sausages while showing off dry-aged cuts of beef. On our last visit, we enjoyed the “build it your way” Salumeria & Formaggio cart, which was served and sliced tableside just before we tucked into “lunch all at once” features. The original downtown location has also undergone a stylish refresh, complete with comfy new banquettes, modern bar accents and a dramatic display showcasing their culinary artistry. Beef, chicken, provisions and charcuterie are available to buy online from the butcher shop, with pick-up at the downtown location.
CHARCUT Roast House | 4150 University Ave. N.W. and 899 Centre St. S. | charcut.com
Calgary’s dining scene welcomed a new addition early this summer, Ninja Tiger on Memorial Dr., a sister restaurant to Bombay Tiger in Kensington and Mumbai Local in Canmore. Owned by Chef Prasad Patil, the restaurant specializes in Maharashtrain cuisine, a distinct flavour profile influenced by coastal and agricultural regions in India. Alongside these specialties, Ninja Tiger offers classic Bombay street food and has already cultivated a dedicated following of patrons who appreciate this style of cuisine. Drawing inspiration from his childhood and his family’s love of cooking, Patil has crafted a menu that reflects these influences. We tried an assortment of items and the standout was the Thalis: an 11-course Maharashrtian/Bombay dish available in a handful of options representing several dishes. Also, the sabudana wada and pani puri were exceptional, while the kolhapuri delivered a fiery kick in the pants, but we loved it. The restaurant’s interior, designed by Patal to harmonize with the tableware, complements its vibrant and inviting atmosphere. Ninja Tiger boasts bold flavours, a cheerful ambiance, ample parking, and a menu designed to leave diners craving more.* Ninja Tiger | 412 Memorial Dr. N.E. | 403.454.5440 | ninjatiger.ca
Amato Gelato’s story begins in the sun-drenched Italian town of Amato in 1929. Gaetano LoScerbo, armed with a passion for local ingredients and a desire to cool down his community, began crafting gelato from a humble cart. This simple concept evolved into a family legacy when his grandson, Mario LoScerbo (Mario’s Gelati), immigrated to Canada in the late 1960s and expanded the business in Vancouver. Today, the Amato Gelato cafés are run by Mario’s nephew, Dino Falvo, who brought the brand to Calgary in 2003. While the original recipes remain the heart of the business, a constant evolution of flavours and offerings has transformed Amato Gelato into more than just a gelato shop. It’s now a vibrant Italian café, serving authentic pastries, coffee and cocktails alongside its world-renowned gelato. The use of fresh, natural ingredients, sourced from around the world, sets it apart from competitors, demonstrating its commitment to quality products resulting in more than 500 unique flavours. The company’s ability to adapt and innovate while staying true to its Italian heritage, has made it a beloved Calgary institution. With 48 flavours of gelato and sorbetto to choose from, there is something for everyone. Fan favourites include vanilla bean, chocolate, Sicilian pistachio, lemon sorbetto and gelato made from plant-based ingredients. For a taste of Italy, visit either of their two locations. Amato Gelato | 7, 2104 Kensington Rd. N.W. and 602, 17th Ave. S.W. amatogelatoalberta.com
Meraki (mA-’rak-E, GREEK) To do something with soul, creativity or love; to put something of yourself into your work.
We recently took a trek to the far northeast to try the fare at Guru Indian Restaurant in Cityscape on the recommendation of a friend in the know. Chefs Kuldeep Singh Bisht , Rohit Kumar and Trivede Prasad bring impressive resumes to the table and opened this second location in 2022 with the first opening in Millrise in 2018. In a word, the meal was delicious. We loved the Pani Puri, featuring delicate, crispy hollow dough balls filled with a fragrant potato-and-chickpea filling with a sweet-and-sour tamarind chutney. Served with a spicy mint pani puri water, which you pour over the puri, this dish offered a beautiful balance of crispy and creamy, sweet and tangy and just enough heat to make it interesting. pro tip: save the leftover water to sip after your meal to aid in digestion and freshen your breath! We also went out on a limb to try Guru’s popular Jaljeera Mojito: white rum, simple syrup, mint, soda and, of course jaljeera mix, which includes mint, ginger, coriander, cumin, salt, tamarind, amchur (dried mango powder) and lemon juice. It was unlike any cocktail we’ve had before and was earthy, spicy, savoury and refreshing. Best taken when it’s ice cold.
Kakes & Kanvas, founded by Kalia Gounden, is a Calgary bakery born from a passion for baking and artistic expression. Inspired by a childhood spent baking with her oldschool Italian nonno, who owned Italian bakeries in Italy and B.C., Kalia has turned a hobby into a thriving business. Business and life partner Luke Ball joined the company in 2021, and after seven years as an online business, they’ve recently set down roots in Kensington. The captivating menu features custom cakes, wedding cakes and gourmet cupcakes, plus a wide selection of seasonal treats like cookies, croissants and cake jars. All are available for pick-up or city-wide delivery. While baked goods are the focus, the menu extends beyond pastries to include coffee and creative workshops like painting and cake decorating. As they establish themselves in their new location, Gounden and Ball have plans in the works for community collaborations, and an assortment of private classes and workshops.
Guru India Restaurant | 618 City Scape Square N.E. | 403.764.4182 | guruindiarestaurant.ca
Kakes & Kanvas | 102, 424 10th St. N.W. | kakesandkanvas.com
As part of our celebration of all things Italian this issue, we put together a list of our favourite pasta dishes in the city. You’ll want to save this somewhere for future reference…trust us.
The potato, raclette and truffle Agnolotti at Banff’s Lupo is worth the park pass fee and gas money all by itself.
Back to basics has never tasted as good as Mercato’s Tagliatelle featuring a classic sugo di pomodoro with fresh basil leaves, cherry tomatoes and Parmigiano. It’s hard to go wrong with Spaghetti alla Carbonara and Bonterra Trattoria’s is among the best around. Enjoy it on the gorgeous patio while the weather’s still warm.
The Cacio e Pepe Spaghetti at Ten Foot Henry is, like the entire menu, fresh, delicious and impeccably prepared.
The Pappardelle Bolognese at Teatro is better than some we’ve had in Italy.
Centini’s Wild Mushroom Ragu Tagliatelle is authentically Italian and it’s loaded with mushrooms. Their Wild Boar Ragu is also great. pro tip: buy the Centini sauces for home. The three cheese is sublime.
D.O.P is opening its new location in Marda Loop in September and we have two picks: the Tajarin with tomato, guanciale, peppers and stracciatella cheese is super-delicious and the R aviolo with brown butter and sage was brought up by a few of us.
Plus, these quick picks:
> Francas’ Linguini Vongole
> +39 Pizza Pasta’s Spaghetti and Meatballs
> YYC Pasta Bar’s Gnocchi Gorgonzola
> Rea’s Vitello Parmigiano
> Bonterra’s Casarecce Pesto
> Cardinale’s Bucatini
> My Little Italia’s Baked Canelloni Bolognese
AT DALHOUSIE STATION 403.286.5220
www.zestkitchenware.com
Soulful recipes inspired by our families straight from the heart of old Italy and made in-house daily.
Our famous sausages are only one part of our story. Check out Spolumbo’s for stress-free office, event and home catering. Our in-house deli and ready-to-eat take-home meals are just waiting for you! Visit us in Inglewood at 1308
By ELLEN KELLY
Illustration by ALISON MARTIN
The artichoke is a delicacy to some, an enigma to others. Actually a thistle, the artichoke does seem like an unusual choice for a meal; the inedible bits far outweigh the edible. With leaves often tipped with nasty thorns and an unpalatable hairy ‘choke’ hidden deep in the centre atop the heart, one requires a definite degree of determination to tackle the artichoke.
Intrepid Italians have been cultivating these enormous thistles for more than 2,000 years and have acquired extensive expertise in their preparation. Likely introduced to the California coast by Italian immigrants around the turn of the century, the area around Watsonville, with its ideal conditions (mist, fog, rain and constant temperatures), still remains ground zero for most of the artichokes we see here.
The most commonly found variety is the Green Globe, a softball-sized flower bud resembling a large hand grenade. Artichokes are part of the sunflower family, related to lesser-known edible members, salsify and cardoon, and share a similarly meaty texture and delicious, savoury flavour.
Choose artichokes that feel heavy for their size. When you squeeze an artichoke, it should feel firm and “squeak” a little. The leaves should be closed with little separation, not splayed wide open. Frost blisters are just fine. In fact, these ‘blighted’ artichokes can taste even better than those not touched by frost. Sadly, most artichokes are sold with the stems cut off right to the base of the bud. These stems, once peeled, are almost as tasty as the heart.
The fleshy base of the tough outer leaves (you have to scrape them with your teeth to eat the tender bits) and the base or ‘heart’ of the artichoke are all that are edible. The exceptions are baby artichokes, which are not actually babies
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at all. They are the buds that have developed with less sun lower down the stalk and are small and often choke-less. These can be steamed whole and dressed in a vinaigrette, sliced raw very thinly and served with lemon and garlic as a salad, or quartered, deep fried and served with aioli.
The simplest way to enjoy larger artichokes is to steam them until the heart is tender and serve them with a lemony herbed aioli. Be sure to let everyone know they have to remove the choke before eating the heart. Add aromatics like a bay leaf, some garlic and a slice of lemon to the steaming water to infuse the artichokes with more flavour. Be sure to save the liquid for an excellent start to a vegetable stock.
When you can find baby artichokes, here’s a tasty recipe from the Castroville (self-styled artichoke capital of the world) Artichoke Festival, an annual May event on the central coast of California.
Fried artichokes are a favourite treat sold at local shops and stands.
250 ml (1 cup) fish batter mix
1.25 ml (¼ tsp) baking powder
125 ml (½ cup) water
60 ml (¼ cup) beer
900 g (2 lbs) baby artichokes, trimmed and quartered
250 ml (1 cup) Italian breadcrumbs
60 ml (¼ cup) grated Parmesan cheese
All-vegetable shortening (not oil)
Heat shortening, 2.5 cm (1 inch) deep, to 175° C (350° F).
In a bowl, combine batter mix, baking powder, water and beer.
Toss Parmesan and breadcrumbs together.
Dip the artichokes in the batter and roll in breadcrumbs/cheese mixture.
Fry artichokes in small batches for 2-3 minutes or until golden brown.
Salt immediately and keep warm until all the artichokes are cooked.
Serve right away, as is or with a dipping sauce of your choice.
are 700+ to hang out with us all
eat | shop | play | explore
The smell of tomato vines and hot peppers in the fall. The satisfying crunch of a homemade pickle paired with a fine slice of locally made jars of jam, mustard and sauce lined up in my cupboard. And gratitude. I have so much gratitude this fall for local growers and businesses who make good things for those of us who love to eat well.
Scott Epple started his career selling Gull Valley Greenhouse produce once a week, April to November, in Fort McMurray. He loved what he was doing, but was on the road constantly, so when the opportunity came up to sell at the Calgary Farmers’ Market , he took it. Flash forward a couple of decades and, well, he and his family — including wife Jil Epple and sons — are a cornerstone of the market, selling their fresh produce and their jars of pickles and preserves, homemade spicy ketchup, bread and butter pickles, pickled asparagus, several types of tomato jams … you name it. With a couple of exceptions, pretty much all of the ingredients are grown in Alberta.
Made with garlic, habanero peppers, bell peppers and, of course, tomatoes, the Gull Valley Growers Spicy Tomato Jam is delicious slathered on a roast beef sandwich, charcuterie (Epple’s favourite) or with a hard cheese like an old cheddar or a chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Spicy Tomato Jam by Gull Valley Growers
Calgary Farmer’s Market | $10.50
By SHELLEY BOETTCHER
If you’ve never had peperonata, you’re in for a treat. This is a classic southern Italian dish, found especially in and around Calabria. Recipes vary, of course, but it is typically made of red bell peppers slowly cooked in tomato, garlic, onion and, of course, lots of olive oil.
This version, from Spillimacheen, B.C.’s Beeland Market , is smoother than some versions because it’s designed to be served as a pasta sauce. It is slightly different from traditional recipes, too, featuring butter, zucchini, eggplant, mushrooms, herbs and Beeland’s fine B.C. honey.
Beeland Market makes a range of jams, sauces and salsas, including another Italian classic, Caponata alla Siciliana and Giardiniera, pickled Italian-style vegetables with fennel seeds and white wine.
Peperonata by Beeland Market Pasta Sauces
Calgary Farmers’ Market | $14.95
I’ve become addicted to Pillar Grove Estate’s olives. I always have a couple of jars at home — one ready to serve to guests, and one to send home with them, because they inevitably love them as much as I do.
Pillar Grove products aren’t grown in Canada, of course, but they do have a great Canadian connection. Born in Greece, George Pananos studied chemical engineering in Canada, and then stayed, working in Alberta’s oil and gas industry. When he retired from his engineering career here, he decided to plant olive trees on land he inherited from his father. Now he splits his time between St. Albert and Greece. As for his retirement? He’s busier than ever, he says, with a full range of award-winning Pillar Grove olive oils and olives (stuffed with red pepper, garlic, lemon, almond or simply plain). Halkidiki are the type: big, meaty olives loaded with juicy, fruity flavour.
Halkidiki Olives by Pillar Grove Estate | Italian Centre Shop | $11.50
Did you know that close to 50 per cent of the world’s mustard is grown in Saskatchewan? Gravelbourg Mustard started in 2008 in Saskatchewan, making Euro-style mustards with mustard and other ingredients grown on the Canadian prairies. Friends Paul Léost and Matt Sirois bought the company in 2022 and they literally have a mustard for every occasion: French Dijon; Saskatoon Berry; HoneyDill; Smokin’ BBQ and Beer; Savoury Dill Pickle
If I had to choose just one, however, I’d probably pick the Gravelbourg Garlic. It can’t be beat, whether you enjoy it as a condiment on a cheese board, slathered on a roast beef sandwich, or on a slow-roasted leg of lamb.
Garlic Mustard by Gravelbourg Mustard Italian Centre Shop, Springbank Cheese Co., Soffrito, Sunterra | Starting at $9.50
By CEILIDH PRICE AND SAVOUR CALGARY STAFF
While it was a longing for home that inspired Calgary’s earliest Italian food-preneurs in the 1950s, it was a sense of community and belonging that created the intergenerational (and delicious!) dynasties we enjoy today. With familiar names like Iamartino, Spoletini, Tudda, Nicastro, Izzo, Spinelli and others, many of these businesses are into their third generations with no sign of slowing down – and grazie mille for that – because these are the folks that make Calgary one of the tastiest cities outside of Italy.
Vincenzo Izzo’s fruitless hunt for a decent cup of coffee sent him back to the source to begin importing espresso machines from Europe in 1974. It wasn’t long before friends, family and friends of family began flocking to his newly-minted social club, not just for the coffee, but for the camaraderie. Fifty years on, his son, Peter and daughter-inlaw Kellie are running the massively successful
Cappuccino King ensuring all Calgarians have access to the world’s best cappuccino.
“What my dad started was because he was dedicated to the community,” says Peter in his Edmonton Tr. showroom surrounded by beautiful, gleaming espresso machines. “And we continue that tradition today. We support local businesses and local charities and we try to bring people together over great coffee.”
While Vinnie Izzo was bringing a bit of Italy to Calgary, Frank Spinelli was doing the same in Edmonton with the Italian Centre Shop, which in 2015 opened its first Calgary location on Acadia Dr., under daughter Teresa Spinelli’s leadership. Managed by longtime employee Gino Marghella, the location has become a home and centre of inspiration for all things Italian in Calgary’s south end.
“We exist to connect people through food and cultural experiences,” says Marghella as he sets up the patio chairs outside the café under a soft summer sun. Just a few minutes of watching him interact with staff and customers like a favourite zio (uncle), shows this approach in action. Same goes for his staff, who are empowered to treat every customer as though they are one of the family.
Like the Italian Centre Shop and Cappuccino King, many businesses that began as small, family stores
have become international concerns with their own manufacturing, importing and exporting businesses. Take The Italian Store, for instance. Alberto and Cristina Iamartino opened Great West Italian Importers in 1956. Over the next six decades, the family grew the business…and grew it some more. Today, the Iamartino family (including the third generation) runs the company, which now has two divisions: the Italian Store retail outlet (including a café and pizzeria), and Scarpone’s Quality Italian Foods: the largest wholesale distributor of Italian and Mediterranean products in Western Canada. With 65 years in the industry, they work with suppliers on packaging and innovation and have access to a wide range of the best products, directly from Italy which they say are made of the highest quality ingredients at reasonable prices. It appears that the Italian way of making you feel like family…even if it’s your first time through the door is the secret sauce that has kept these businesses in operation over decades and generations. It’s a sentiment so ingrained in the Italian way, the folks over at the Calgary Italian Bakery named their bread for it.
Founded in 1962 by Luigi and Myrl Bontorin, the Calgary Italian Bakery began like many of its contemporaries: as an effort to bring something better to this little city on the prairies. They say their founders believed “Calgarians
“La cucina è il cuore della casa”
The kitchen is the heart of the home
deserved better bread made with love and ingredients you could pronounce.” Today the company is run by sons David and Louis, who launched their La Famiglia line of bread to honour Luigi and Myrl and to bring Calgarians into the family fold. And it’s a big family! The Calgary Italian Bakery has become a leading supplier of bread products in Western Canada with its 40,000-sq.-ft. facility working 24 hours a day to feed the family.
Joe Di Gaeta of the family-owned, Italian Super Market , says Calgarians are drawn not just to the food, but to the culture his dad started in 1963, and the family has been offering ever since.
“Italian culture has a certain romance about it. Food is central to recreating and emulating that passion,” says Di Gaeta. The excited chatter of customers enjoying the smells and warmth emanating from the hand-crafted pizza oven over his shoulder illustrates his point.
While it wasn’t a family business that inspired Tony and Tom Spoletini and Mike Palumbo (the folks behind Spolumbo’s Fine Foods & Deli) family recipes did inspire the original mild Italian sausage that took the city by storm when they launched in 1991. Combining a little of this from the Spoletini recipe with a little of that from the Palumbo vaults and a sprinkle of Tudda
Sera Duros, The Italian Store: A cup of cappuccino 1 8 2 7 5 6 4 3
magic touch (see the illustration on the next page for how the Tuddas (Stromboli Inn, Villa Firenze) and the Caracciolos (Mercato, Sorella) fit in!) that became Spolumbos’ signature sausage. Now supplying Western Canada and beyond with a wide variety of flavours, Tony Spoletini says “famiglia” goes beyond Spolumbos’ front doors and into the community. And it’s a love that flows both ways.
“In our culture, the Italian culture, our door is always open. That’s what we wanted in our business, an extension of home,” he says. “Alberta is a generous province. Growing up and playing sports in Calgary, the parents, the local businesses, the coaches, were all so supportive with their time and providing jerseys, fees, banquets. Giving back to the community, especially kids’ sports and charities… has always been important to us.”
There’s an Italian expression that says “la cucina è il cuore della casa:” the kitchen is the heart of the home. These families, their food and their legacies are at the heart of the city we call home, having played an integral role in our history, contributing to our vibrant culinary present and investing in a delicious future. Grazie di tutto!
When you are surrounded with the finest, freshest and purest ingredients day after day, what do these men and women savour the most when gathered with their own kin?
Lina Di Gaeta, The Italian Super Market: Spaghetti Carbonara
Joe Di Gaeta, The Italian Super Market: Margherita Pizza
Marco Di Gaeta, The Italian Super Market: Spagetti Vonghole (Pasta with Clams)
Gino Marghella, The Italian Centre Shop: A fresh piece of burrata drizzled with truffle honey
Tony Spoletini, Spolumbo’s: Orecchiette pasta aglio e olio with spicy sausage, and rapini
Peter Izzo, Cappuccino
King: Pasta e fagioli (beans)
Kellie Izzo, Cappuccino
King: Rapini e salsiccia (sausage)
1981 Peter Nicastro takes over operations of La Rinascente
1984 Guido Panara opens Da Guido’s
1984 Frank and Annette Bonafede open Il Chianti
1986 Marco Abdi opens La Brezza
1987 Mike Ciccaglione rebrands Prairie Dog Inn (1967) as Buon Gior no
1988 La Rinascente is renamed “Nicastro’s” and moves to Edmonton Trail
1988 Ricioppo family opens La Luna Rossa
1989 Antonietta and Rocco Terrigno open Osteria di Medici
The Italian Centre Shop opens in CalgarySPINELLI
Calgary’sfirstItalian restaurant, later named IsleofCapri
Gene’s Spaghetti Parlour & LC Banquets open GENE/LOUIE
Cappuccino King opens
2016 PZA opens NICASTRO
Roma, now run by second and third generations, is the in-house restaureant at the Italian Centre.
1969
Roma Catering opens CECCHETTO ROMANO & ANTONIETTA
Cathy Caracciolo is Teresa Tudda’s sister.
Tony is Pina’s (and Joe Nicastro’s) son and runs Canadian Italian estaurant Group.
La Rinascente Italian grocery opens NICASTRO
ANTONIO & FILOMENA
BrothersTonyand Johnaregrandsons ofAntonioand Filomena and cousinsofTonythe younger.
Pizza Culture opens NICASTRO
TONY THE ELDER, JOHN + JEREMY HUBE
Tom and Tony Spoletini are cousins. They both played for the Calgary Stampeders with Mike Palumbo before they all started Spolumbo’s.
1991
Villa Firenze opens TUDDA JOE, TERESA, PETER DOMENIC, PINA, MARIANNE
Marianne Tudda is married to Tom Spoletini
Nicastro’s becomes a pub
John Nicastro also owns The George in Okotoks among others.
TONY AND JOHN
Steffana is Tom & Marianne (nee Tudda) Spoletini’s daughter.
By TIM WILLIAMS WITH FILES FROM SAVOUR CALGARY STAFF
Let’s start this crash course in pasta with a left turn into the annals of philosophy. When Spanish-American philosopher and writer George Santayana was attending university, he stopped in one night at a diner. Famished after a long day of critical thinking, he ordered spaghetti and meatballs. George was a couple mouthfuls in when he recalled that he’d been dissatisfied with this very same dish, in this very same diner, three weeks previously. He put down his fork, pulled his notebook from his satchel, and wrote the first draft of what would become his most famous quote: “Those who forget the pasta are condemned to repeat it.”
PASTA BY NUMBERS
Contrary to the folklore of Marco Polo bringing pasta back from the Far East to Italy in the 13th century, food historians have found evidence of pasta predating the Roman Empire, as far back as 4th century BCE.
Minutes, that is. That’s the range you can expect when aiming to cook your dried pasta al dente, or with a slight firmness in its consistency. Long, fine pasta such as angel hair will cook to al dente in about 3 minutes, while thicker pasta such as penne may take as long as 12 minutes. These numbers can depend on your heat source, as well as your concept of firm. Speaking of time, the best pasta is dried slowly before packaging – look for pasta that’s more beige than yellow.
How many kinds of pasta are there? It all depends on who you ask. Certainly, the numbers are a testament to pasta’s wideranging versatility, and to innovative chefs the world over.
If we move the conversation to a bigger table, we can state with al dente certainty that there are four kinds of pasta:
Think linguine, fettuccine, spaghetti SHORT
Think penne, rigatoni, fusilli
STUFFED
Think ravioli, tortellini, cappelletti
A TRIP WITHOUT THE PASSPORT
SOUP
Think orzo, pastina, farfalle
One of the most beguiling of pasta possibilities is the rare su filindeu. The name means “the threads of God ,” perhaps because to make it takes a blessed amount of patience and skill.
On the Italian island of Sardinia, in a village called Nuoro, Paola Abraini rises at 7:00 each morning to begin the painstaking task of manipulating semolina dough into the thinnest of strands, then weaving these strands
On a recent trip to Italy, we learned from a feisty Bolognese tour guide that the romance between pasta and sauce rivals that of Romeo and Juliet. Getting it right means a blissful love affair, getting it wrong can mean a disaster of Montague-versus-Capulet proportions. At the very least, you’ll end up with a mouthful of sauceless noodles and a bowlful of noodle-less sauce. Here’s a quick guide:
FETTUCINI Use a cream sauce, like the ubiquitous Fettucini Alfredo, named for Roman creator Alfredo di Lelio. SPAGHETTI Fish for a seafood sauce. Think Spaghetti Vongole (with clams).
ANGEL HAIR Any finer tomato-based sauce, like a fresh sugo di pomodoro, will do.
ORECCHIETTE Like most pastas, orecchiette is named for its shape. These “little ears” are best paired with a vegetable sauce like a puttanesca, which also has an interesting translation. We’ll let you Google that on your own.
RAVIOLI Slippery sauces go best with these pockets of gastronomic delight. We love a sage and brown butter sauce with an egg raviolo.
PENNE This is the Charles Atlas (Calabrese, by the way) of pasta in that it does the heavy lifting. A hearty Bolognese or ragu is the sauce for this macho noodle. With more than 600 pasta shapes, we could go on, but we trust you get the idea: catch the most sauce possible on your noodle.
across a circular frame in a three-layer pattern. These circles are slow-dried in the Sardinian sun, resulting in fine pasta said to be about half the width of angel’s hair. Signora Abraini is one of only three women in the world who possess this skill – the other two are her niece and her sister-in-law, both of whom also live in Nuoro.
Visit Sardinia during the Feast of San Francesco and you’ll be served su filindeu in a sheep’s broth with grated pecorino.
If you’re seeking an uncommon pasta experience a little closer to home, Calgary has an abundance of options for Italian dining that are by turns authentic and adventurous. We listed our favourites on Page 9
By ERIN JENKINS
Calgarians hoping to do a little “travel with their tastebuds,” take note: Rustic Plate – Tempura on the Prairies is bringing the world to YYC with a global (and delicious) perspective on food.
Sure, cheese lovers can be found everywhere, but for Isaac Bignell, cheese isn’t just a tasty dairy product formed by the coagulation of milk proteins – cheese is life.
As the dynamic force behind the legendary Say Cheese, a Calgary institution located in the Crossroads Market , Bignell offers a glimpse into the unique world of cheese and all the delicious things that go with it.
Chef Diyan Weerapura is the definition of a true world traveller. He speaks five languages and has lived all over the globe –from Japan to Europe to Beirut. Happily, he has now settled in Calgary, where he’s offering up his considerable global food knowledge to a hungry public.
With a little help from his wife, Dimi, Weerapura has translated 23 years of experience working alongside Michelin-starred chefs from the world’s top foodie destinations into a unique, tempura-forward Japanese-European fusion cuisine that only someone with his global experience could conjure.
Customer favourites include fish ‘n’ chips done Japanese-tempura style, characterized by its light and crunchy batter; and chicken karaage, a Japanese fried chicken. Behind the scenes, he’s been working on new menu items, including a celebration of the “croffle” – a cross between a waffle and a croissant. Expect playful sweet and savoury variations, like fried chicken and croffle (a take on the classic chicken and waffles), served with raclette cheese, a Swiss favourite (did we mention Weerapura also lived in Switzerland?).
Everything Rustic Plate serves is homemade, from its hand-cut fries to a “wasabi tartar” and creamy teriyaki sauce, all sourced using local ingredients wherever possible. Weerapura also has significant experience preparing vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, and can accommodate special requests and dietary needs. The philosophy is all about making the opportunity to try new foods accessible, affordable and delicious. So go ahead, take a little trip around the world with Rustic Plate.
Rustic Plate – Tempura on the Prairies | Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens 426, 12445 Lake Fraser Dr. S.E. | 587.703.9673 | rusticplate.ca
A boutique retailer, Say Cheese carries a range of products from the classics to a rotating menu of spectacular and special cheeses otherwise rarely found in YYC. The shop includes a retail side with jams, chutneys and preserves, high-quality olive oil and balsamic vinegar and, of course, caviar (“caviar is one my weaknesses,” Bignell admits) – everything you’ll need to throw a bougie event.
Say Cheese is all about the culinary curiosities that make life worth living. On any given day, you’ll find fun surprises like morel mushrooms or exotic fruits like Buddha’s hand citrus (a citron variety with fruit segmented into finger-like sections). In addition to these specialty items, Say Cheese includes what Bignell lovingly refers to as the “second-hand cheese shop,” giving high-quality cheeses a second chance at life while keeping them out of the landfill and providing an affordable gateway into the world of specialty cheese.
But Say Cheese is more than just food –it’s a lifestyle. Calgarians can enjoy special events, like Opera & Cheese (featuring an opera singer serenading a block of cheese), or join the Say Cheese Club, with a new wine and cheese offering every two weeks (interested parties should inquire within the shop). Bignell also brings his love of travel to his work, most recently embarking on a trip to Europe to meet with cheese producers across the region, an experience he found incredibly inspiring. “To share your vocation is a special thing, to meet producers who share in the love and beauty of cheese – it fills your cup,” he says.
Say Cheese | Crossroads Market | 1235 26th Ave. S.E. 587.216.1677 | @saycheeseyyc
Story and photos by SUSAN TURNBULL
Italian food is all about family and there are few better ways to bond than cooking together. When it comes to pizza, eaters of every age can participate, and it’s so much fun to mix and match toppings and create your own masterpiece.
In this Master Class, we’ll get you started with a great dough, a beautiful sauce and a delicious pesto to lay the groundwork for your family’s creations - the rest is up to you! pizza pro tips:
You can either use this dough right away or put it a plastic bag in the fridge for up to 48 hours to add flavour.
Grate your own cheese to avoid the cellulose put in pre-grated cheese to prevent clumping. Make one pizza to eat and freeze the rest for a ready-to-bake weekday dinner.
4 x 30-cm (12-inch) sugar
500 ml (2 cups) lukewarm water
2 envelopes (8 g pizza yeast olive oil
406 g (3½ cups) 00 flour bread or all-purpose flour
7.5 ml (1½ tsp) fine salt dried oregano, optional
In a large bowl or mixer bowl of a stand mixer, dissolve sugar in water; sprinkle yeast over, stir and let stand 5-10 minutes until bubbly. Stir in olive oil and 290 g (2½ cups) of 00 flour, beat 1 minute, then stir in bread (or all-purpose) flour, salt and oregano, if using.
If using a stand mixer, change to dough hook and add most of the remaining 116g (1 cup) of 00 flour. Mix (or knead by hand on floured board, which takes a bit longer) until dough leaves the side of the bowl, about 2-3 minutes, adding additional remaining flour if dough seems too sticky. Dough should be smooth and elastic, but not tough.
Form into a ball, drizzle oil down sides of bowl and over top of dough. Cover with a plastic bag and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in bulk, about 40 minutes. Punch dough down lightly.
Portion into 4 and let rest about 10 minutes to allow the dough to relax, otherwise it will be harder to press out. Optimally, re-cover with the plastic bag and refrigerate for a day or two.
If refrigerated, when ready to bake, remove from the fridge, portion into 4, drizzle each with oil, cover and let rise for about 1½ - 2 hours until puffy and soft.
For immediate use after initial rise, or after second rise of refrigerated dough, place each pizza ball on a floured or semolina-topped board. Flatten dough slightly, press a rim around the outer edge with your fingers, and then dimple the dough all over with your fingers to press out large air bubbles. Moving the dough in a circle, gently stretch out to make a 30-cm (12") circle, and place on a greased pizza pan or stone. Dock the surface of the crust all over with a docker or tines of a fork. Drizzle the crust with olive oil and spread over the surface with your fingers. Let rise for about 15 minutes, preheating the oven to 230 C (450 F) while the dough is rising.
Parbake each crust for 4-5 minutes to set the dough. Remove to a rack to cool. After cooling, if you wish, you can freeze pizza shells (with parchment between each crust) in freezer bags for future use.
To bake finished pizzas, heat the oven to 230 C (450 F), cook 5 minutes, then reduce heat to 220 C (425 F) and cook an additional 8-12 minutes, watching carefully. Bake time depends on the amount and type of toppings and your oven. If desired, broil for 1 minute to brown the cheese.
Yield: about 750 ml (3 cups) – enough for 4 x 30-cm (12-inch) pizzas
Note: San Marzano tomatoes usually have significantly less salt than other canned tomatoes, so check the sodium content in your tomatoes before adding additional salt.
1 796 ml (28 oz) can San Marzano tomatoes, drained for 15 minutes
2 garlic cloves, chopped
15 ml (1 Tbsp) olive oil
15 ml (1 Tbsp) sugar
15 ml (1 Tbsp) dried oregano
2.5 ml (½ tsp) salt
2.5 ml (½ tsp)
Aleppo chilis or chili flakes, optional
Place all ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth, or puree with an immersion blender. If not using immediately, refrigerate up to 5 days or freeze.
Yield: about 500 ml (2 cups)
85 g (1 cup) grated Parmesan cheese
1-2 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely
75 g (½ cup) toasted pistachios, pine nuts, cashews or walnuts
40 g (1½ cups) fresh basil leaves
Handful of flat-leaf parsley
2.5 ml (½ tsp) Aleppo chilis or other chili flakes, optional
10 ml (2 tsp) finely grated lemon zest
15 ml (1 Tbsp) fresh lemon juice
120 ml – 158 ml (½ – 2/3 cup) olive oil
Salt and freshly-ground pepper, to taste
To toast nuts, place in a frying pan over medium heat, and add a small drizzle of oil – about 2.5 ml (½ tsp). Stirring constantly, cook until lightly browned and fragrant, approximately 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer to a heatproof bowl to cool. Use desired amount for pesto, reserve any remaining nuts for another use.
Combine cheese, garlic and nuts in a food processor until finely chopped. Add herbs, chilis, if using, lemon zest and juice and process until smooth. With the machine running,
quickly drizzle in olive oil until it reaches the desired consistency (thinner for spreading over crust, thicker for adding dollops to the pizza). Do not over-process, as it can make the pesto bitter. Season with salt and pepper, if desired.
If you have leftover pesto, spoon it into jars or containers, smooth the top and cover with a thin layer of olive oil to seal. Refrigerate up to 3 days or freeze for longer storage.
Discover Calgary’s iconic tastes on a brand new tour created by Alberta Food Tours. The team has enthusiastically launched the Iconic Eats of Calgary experience, showcasing the city’s best culinary offerings. Enjoy delicious food, meet local chefs and immerse yourself in Calgary’s vibrant food scene. Tours start Sept. 7 and tickets are going fast.
Alberta Food Tours 888.211.2206 albertafoodtours.ca
TOTO Pizza is now featuring 11-inch select pizzas from $9 when dining in. This family-owned Italian eatery in Bridgeland is known for their hand-tossed pies and traditional Italian fare. Wash it all down with an Italian beer or glass of vino.
TOTO Pizza 610, 1st Ave. N.E. 403.265.1990 toto-pizza.com
North Sea Fish and Farms (no relation to North Sea Fish Market) has taken over the Billingsgate space in Crossroads Market following the passing of Billingsgate owner Bryan Fallwell. With more than 50 years of serving the Calgary community with fresh fish and seafood, the fish market at Crossroads is in very good hands.
North Sea Fish and Farms Crossroads Market 1235 26th Ave. S.E. 403.243.4475 | northsea.ca
North Sea Market in Willow Park has officially reopened following a devastating fire last year. The market offers a diverse selection of fresh and frozen seafood, as well as prepared gourmet meals.
North Sea Fish Market Willow Park | 300, 10816
Macleod Tr. S.E. | 403.225.3460 | northseamarket.ca
Part two of Terroir Symposium runs Nov. 3-4, 2024 and features a starstudded lineup of international culinary and hospitality experts. Attendees can expect engaging workshops, insightful panel discussions and exclusive culinary experiences. Delve deeper into the world of food and beverage, while learning about sustainability, innovation and regional flavours. Terroir Symposium at SAIT | terroirsymposium
The iconic Hy’s Steakhouse celebrates a decade at the CORE in downtown Calgary. To mark the occasion, Hy’s has partnered with Reifel Rye to create a special cocktail, the Rocky Mountain Manhattan. A portion of each drink sold throughout September benefits the SAIT John Aisenstat Memorial Award
Hy’s Steakhouse & Cocktail Bar | The CORE, 8th Ave. & 3rd St. S.W. | 403.663.3363 hyssteakhouse.com
Calgary’s Village Brewery is celebrating big wins at the 2024 World Beer Awards, and is the only Alberta brewery to win awards in 2024. The Village Blacksmith, an Alberta black ale, took home the top prize in the brown ale category, while Village Wit, a white wheat ale, was crowned World’s Best American Wheat Beer.
Village Brewery | 5000 12a St. S.E. | 403.243.3327 villagebrewery.com
Native Tongues Taqueria Mezcaleria announced a new location opening soon in the University District . Expect cocktails, happy hour and latenight shenanigans. Follow the website and social media for updates.
Native Tongues | nativetongues.ca
Cucina Market Bistro blends the convenience of a market with the warmth of a bistro. Discover fresh, ready-to-eat options or savour authentic classic Italian dishes in Calgary’s vibrant downtown.
Cucina Market Bistro | 515 8th Ave. S.W. | 587.353.6565 | eatcucina.com
Calgary Produce Marketing Association’s Fall Harvest Sale returns with proceeds going to the Alberta Children’s Hospital Foundation and the Community Kitchen Program of Calgary. Stock up on affordable produce for all your cooking needs. Fall Harvest Sale 2024 | calgarypma.ca/fall-harvest-sale
YYC Pizza Fest , presented by Calgary Meals on Wheels, is back! From Sept. 20 – Oct. 6 pizza enthusiasts can travel the city trying the pies with partial proceeds going to the charity.
YYC Pizza Fest | yycpizzafest.com
After much anticipation, D.O.P is opening its new location in Marda Loop in October. After losing its 1st St. location (former home of Bar Von der Fels) to development, the hunt was on and Calgary food lovers held their collective breath. We can’t wait to eat Tony and the gang’s incredible food in their new location. Watch the website and social media for opening dates.
D.O. P | 34th Ave. and 18th St. S.W. | 587.349.2656 | dopyyc.com | @dopyyc
Our friends over at Tubby Dog are celebrating the launch of their famous The Ukey sausage in a grocery store near you. Find this home-grown favourite at select Sobeys, Safeway and IGA stores across Alberta.
The Ukey | Sobeys, Safeway and IGA + Tubby Bar | 100A 1210 8th St. S.W. 403.452.1896 | tubbybar.com
Congratulations to last issue’s winner, Mary Marcuk . Here are the answers to the Game Show Quiz from the Summer 2024 issue:
1 Are fish game? Yes, fish are game. In Alberta, it’s best to observe provincial and local regulations before you go fishing.
2 What category of game does rabbit fall into? Game proper.
3 Name a local purveyor of game meat: Bon Ton, Urban Butcher, Rocky Mountain Game.
4 Name a local restaurant that serves game: River Cafe, Big Fish/Open Range, Grizzly House.
5 Where can you go for great hunting advice in Alberta: Alberta Conservation at HarvestYourOwn.ca.
OCTOBER POP UP BY CHEF JOSE LEMUS
OCTOBER POP UP BY CHEF JOSE LEMUS
THURSDAY TO SUNDAY | ALL OCTOBER | 5PM TO CLOSE 5 & 8 COURSE TASTING MENU |
THURSDAY TO SUNDAY | ALL OCTOBER | 5PM TO CLOSE 5 & 8 COURSE TASTING MENU |
