How the way we eat impacts the world we live in GOAN FISH CURRY A Master Class
EARLY SPRING 2024
LOCAL.
FRESH.
STORIES FOR FOOD LOVERS. SLÁINTE
The high-flying origins of Irish Coffee ETHICAL EATING
WE’RE CELEBRATING OUR 50TH YEAR OF THIS FAMILY AFFAIR and we are reflecting on the people and businesses that have supported three generations of our family business. We are so filled with appreciation for the enduring relationships we have built and the incredible growth we’ve both witnessed in our partners and have been fortunate to enjoy ourselves.
GATHER AROUND AND MEET FREDERICK
We are in awe of your unwavering support.
Thank you, Calgary, from every one of us in the IZZO FAMILIA
50 Y EARS OF CO
FFE E & FAMILY
Frederick Kozak purchased his stylish little MIA from my dad, Vince, in 1989, and she has been delivering great espresso to him ever since.
Frederick’s dad introduced him to great coffee. Then, after a seminal trip to Italy just before university, he found a quintessential cafe in Florence and tried to describe the espresso
he had there. Vince’s response was raucous: “It’s a-tasted like-a my coffee!” Frederick concedes that it does to this day. So now he drops by to pick up a pound of our Vince’s Blend roast coffee every 10 days, and he, like so many of our customers, has grown to be family to us. -Peter
FREDERICK KOZAK
Entrepreneur and espresso aficionados
WE SUPPLY IN-THE-KNOW CALGARIANS WITH LOCALLY ROASTED TRUE ITALIAN-STYLE COFFEE AND PRETTY MUCH EVERYTHING ELSE THAT GOES ALONG WITH IT.
WE CARRY AND SERVICE:
LET US SUPPLY YOU WITH:
403.277.5169 410 23 AVENUE NE, CALGARY CAPPUCCINO KING .COM
I've never been a fan of the either/or paradigm. Living life from a place of "yeah, but," is not only a drag, but it shuts down creativity, limits possibilities and closes doors. This sort of binary thinking often presents itself in the conversation around food and eating: something can either be healthy or delicious. It can either be inexpensive or high-quality. Nonsense. In this issue, we're exploring the yes/and of ethical eating. The food that arrives on your plate has many ways of getting there and the choices we make have real impacts on people, animals, the environment, the economy and more. That doesn't mean you have to suddenly switch to local, vegan, organic food with no salt, sugar, fat or flavour to be an ethical eater. In fact, we look at ways to source meat, to eat chocolate, drink coffee and enjoy an omelet all while feeding the hungry, saving the planet, being kind to animals, supporting local business and fighting for social justice. That's a whole lot of both/and. We say in our "Eat-ivism 101 Crash Course" that the number one thing you can do to eat ethically is to simply start paying attention to where your food comes from. We hope this issue of Savour Calgary will help you do that, while pointing you to some fantastic local producers, sellers, eateries and chefs who make eating both ethical and delicious.
Eating ethically also goes beyond the food itself. You can use your dining dollars to support causes that are important to you. This could mean supporting 2SLGBTQ+-owned businesses (see Motherlode Coffee on Page 11), or engaging in Truth and Reconciliation through cultural education (see chef’s tasting menu at Little Chief restaurant on Page 5). Maybe you want to help feed hungry kids in developing countries (see Earth Group on Page 14). The possibilities are endless, and every little bit helps.
Happy (ethical) eating!
Savour Calgary tells the food stories that happen at Mohkínstsis, located in the traditional territories of the Niitsitapi and the people of the Treaty 7 region and the Métis Nation of Alberta, Region 3. We acknowledge the indigenous people of this area as keepers of the land and water that make these stories possible and thank them for their hospitality and stewardship of this place.
Savour Selects 5 Sandos, Noods and a Tiny Chef Fresh Market 13 Pineapple Shop Local 14 Peculiar fruit and window gardens Feature Article 16 Conscious Consumption Market Report 19 Meat, Ethically A Crash Coarse 20 Eat-ivism 101 Feature Article 22 Sláinte: The High-Flying Origins of Irish Coffee Master Class 24 Goan Coconut Fish Curry Quick Bites 26 Cookies, coffee and chiles rellenos Welcome | FROM THE EDITOR Contents 16 24 20
2024 ISSUE SCHEDULE Watch for Savour Calgary on newsstands throughout 2024. Late Spring | May 8-10 Summer | July 3-5 Harvest | September 11-13 Holiday | November 6-8 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 3
Banana Chocolate Pancakes
Ingredients:
1 1⁄2 cups flour
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 1⁄4 cups milk
1⁄2 cup mashed banana (about 2 small bananas)
Directions:
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup semisweet chocolate drops, separated roughly in half (for a sweeter pancake, try adding milk chocolate drops) Optional - maple syrup, your favourite peanut butter, or our Chocolate Hazelnut Spread
1. Combine flour, sugar, baking powder and cinnamon in a large bowl.
2. Stir in milk, banana, egg and vanilla. (You may need to add a few tablespoons extra of milk if you feel the batter is too thick). Fold in about half of the chocolate drops.
3. Heat a non-stick pan on medium heat. You will know when the pan is hot enough for the pancake batter when a few drops of water dances on the surface of the pan. Note: you may need to spray the pan with non-stick spray.
4. Pour batter onto pan, making about 3 inch rounds.
5. Cook about two minutes or until tops are bubbly. Flip pancake and cook for another minute or until golden.
6. Place your delicious pancakes on individual plates and sprinkle with remaining chocolate drops. For a fun addition, drizzle with syrup and serve with your favourite peanut butter or our incredible Chocolate Hazelnut Spread.
This pancake recipe combining the winning flavours of banana and chocolate will bring your family breakfast or brunch to whole other level. Shop in store or online
Free Canadian shipping for online Canadian orders over $75* use code FREESHIP75 at checkout (*some restrictions apply)
chocolate together chocolate together
www.CococoChocolatiers.com
Four locations to shop in person: Signal Hill / Southcentre Mall Dalhousie Station / Chocolate Factory Outlet (10% off all products at this location only)
Easy curbside pickup: Cococo Chocolate Factory in Mayland Heights
@Cococo_Chocolates @CococoChocolates #ChocolateTogether
FOR MORE RECIPES
SCAN
PUBLISHER Debbie Lambert debbie@savourcalgary.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Camie Leard | camie@savourcalgary.ca CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Ellen Kelly | ellen@savourcalgary.ca COMMUNICATIONS & MARKETING MANAGER Wanda Baker | wanda@savourcalgary.ca MAGAZINE DESIGN Cheryl Starr Design Group | stellardesign.ca COVER Shot by photographer and food stylist Hetal Bulsara, this beautiful Saskatoon berry soup from Little Chief restaurant is part of its new chef's tasting menu. CONTRIBUTORS Barbara Balfour Wanda Baker Shelley Boettcher Hetal Bulsara Ellen Kelly ADVERTISING INQUIRIES advertising@savourcalgary.ca WEBSITE TECHNICAL ADVISOR Todd Robertson | web@savourcalgary.ca DISTRIBUTION James Norman | distribution@ savourcalgary.ca Savour Calgary is a bi-monthly | magazine published by Savour Calgary Ltd. Savour Calgary is published six times per year. Winter, Early Spring, Late Spring, Summer, Fall, Holiday CONTACT INFORMATION PHONE: 403.475.5809 EMAIL: info@savourcalgary.ca POST MAIL: c/o 42 Candle Terrace SW, Calgary, T2W 6G7 FOR MORE INFORMATION SEE US AT savourcalgary.ca FOR EDITORIAL INQUIRIES CONTACT camie@savourcalgary.ca Savour Calgary has made all efforts to ensure that content in the magazine is accurate on the date of publication. The views expressed in the articles reflect the author(s) opinions and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher or editor. The published material, advertisements, editorials and photographs along with all other content is published in good faith and Savour Calgary cannot guarantee and accepts no liability for any loss or damage of any kind caused by any errors, omissions and for the accuracy of claims made by the advertisers or any other contributors. All trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner and Savour Calgary will be held harmless in the event that the advertiser or contributor has submitted trademarks for which they do not have authorization from the owner. All rights reserved by Savour Calgary and nothing can be partially or in whole be reprinted or reproduced without the written consent of the publisher at Savour Calgary Ltd. 4 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Savour selects
BON A-PETIT
The tiniest chef has arrived in Calgary and he’s farming, fishing and grilling on a table near you. The Dorian Autograph Collection Hotel is presenting Le Petit Chef, a German-born, French-themed international culinary experience featuring projections onto table and plate. During the show, the six-cm chef engages in shenanigans like a Coyote and the Roadrunner-esque battle of wits over a radish and other adventures. The four-course meal follows Le Petit Chef on his journey to prepare the perfect first in projections, then on your plate as prepared by the usual-sized humans in the kitchen. The food was great and the experience unique. We particularly loved the dessert sequence. Exclusively available in Calgary at The Dorian’s Bistro Novelle, Le Petit Chef offers a choice of three menus: classic, vegetarian and a kids’ menu for littles aged 5-12. The cost is $129 per adult and $65 per child. Two wine pairing options are available at $45 and $60. The experience is booking several weeks in advance, so get your reservation soon.*
Le Petit Chef at Bistro Nouvelle | The Dorian: Second Floor, 525 5th Ave. S.W. | 403.300.6630 | lepetitchef.com/Calgary
THE TASTING EXPERIENCE IS NOT ONLY DELICIOUS, IT’S ALSO BEAUTIFUL WITH THE TEAM PAYING EXTRA ATTENTION TO PLATING THAT INVITES DINERS INTO A STORY
SHENETĮ HÁ ɁÓ: DO YOU WANT TO EAT?
When it comes to the new chef’s tasting menu at Little Chief restaurant at the Grey Eagle Resort and Casino, the answer is an enthusiastic yes. Launched in concert with the restaurant’s new dining menu, the tasting experience is aimed at diners looking for an immersive, educational and delicious experience with Chef Brandon “Dash” Dashnay, who started as a prep cook at the restaurant in 2015. Married to a member of the Tsuu T'ina Nation, Dashnay steeps himself indigenous culinary cultures of Southern Alberta. The tasting experience is not only delicious, it’s also beautiful with the team paying extra attention to plating that invites diners into a story. Contact the restaurant to book your group for the tasting menu experience. Watch for a more in-depth story in our Late Spring issue celebrating indigenous food.*
Little Chief Restaurant | Grey Eagle Resort | 3779 Grey Eagle Dr. S.W. | 587.390.1400 greyeagleresortandcasino.ca/little-chief-restaurant
TOP PICKS from Savour staff | SAVOUR SELECTS Savou r
*Hosted our meal, but did not approve the story
Photo provided
Le Petit Chef is a show and a meal in one
EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 5
Little Chief's new tasting menu brings story and food together Camie Leard
BRUNCH BLOSSOM
If you’ve tried to have a spontaneous brunch in Calgary, you know about long waits, no reservations and other obstacles between you and your Bennies. So, we were thrilled to hear our friends at Phil & Sebastian launched a full breakfast and lunch menu served from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. at their Marda Loop location in late 2023. Coowner Sebastian Sztabzyb says the plans had been in the making for some time.
“We didn’t want to just do it for the sake of doing it,” he says. “We wanted to do it right. So we took our time to make sure we created something that people would make the trip for.” We think they nailed it. Chef Tyssan Hough’s delicious menu complements
P&S’s award-winning coffee offering. We loved the Coffee Toast featuring P&S’s coffeebutter spread on fresh, crispy toast. The Ol’ Faithful Breakfast Sandwich is a work of art and a great bargain at $9. Try any of the sandwiches because the bread is great. We also really enjoyed the Oslo Hash featuring house-made salmon gravlax, pickled onions, fried capers, baby spinach, dill hollandaise, avocado and a poached egg. On weekends, P&S adds waffles and more.*
Phil & Sebastian Marda Loop | 2043 33rd Ave. S.W. 403.261.1885 | philsebastian.com
USE YOUR NOODLE
Everyone knows noodles are the perfect food. What you may not know is that one of China’s most popular noodle houses has set up shop at Pacific Place Mall in Calgary. Mogouyan Hand-pulled Noodles takes its noodles seriously and we’re glad they do. We began with some classic appies like some crispy spring rolls and a really delicious lamb skewer. The highlight, though, was the Bean Jelly Noodles with Mogouyan’s special sauce. We’re wimps when it comes to spice, so we took the mild option, but there was no lack of flavour in this cold dish. We loved the Braised Beef Noodles with thick round noodles (you get to choose your noods), which was a (huge) serving of soup with tender beef and noodles in a delicious broth.*
Mogouyan Hand-Pulled Noodles | 959, 999 36th St. N.E. 825.540.1770
mogouyannoodles.com
Meraki Cuisine Catering
Large or small, formal or informal, we will work with you to deliver an exceptional event.
Meraki On the Go Food Truck
Our rolling cookhouse is ready for action spring, summer and fall.
LET’S PARTY
merakicuisine.ca 403.619.COOK (2665) Beet and Burrata Salad, baby basil, arugula, orange segments and walnut vinaigrette.
Oslo Hash
6 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Mogouyan Bean Jelly with House Special Sauce Camie Leard Camie Leard
STACKED SAMMY
Lil’ Black Rooster is a labour of love and a culinary venture dedicated to the art of sandwich making. Founded by celebrated local chef Andrea Harling of VBurger, and entrepreneurs Anton Shouli and Chris Fraser, the team ensures every bite is a memorable culinary experience. Located in the Calgary Farmers’ Market West , Lil' Black Rooster features sammies that mirror Harling's zest for life and dedication to culinary excellence. “I have always wanted to have my own sandwich shop and it felt like the time was right,” she says. The menu showcases her artistic side with names like the Meatballer and Italian Job. Sides, a daily feature and sauces for purchase round out the menu. We’ve successfully conquered our first sando, the Rooster BLT, and are looking forward to working our way through the menu.
Lil’ Black Rooster | Calgary Farmers’ Market West | 25 Greenbriar Dr. N.W. @lilblackroostereats
Follow us on FB @brantlakepremiummeats | Follow us on IG @brantlakepremium Wholesale and distribution across Canada 507 - 42 AVE SE CALGARY | 587.352.3311 | 403.652.1014 | BRANTLAKEWAGYU.CA Meet the people behind BLW beef production and sales Available at our BLW Butcher Shop White & brown breads in a variety of sizes Healthy choices – whole grain, multigrain and rye breads On-site deli Sandwiches, pizza, hot features and more PROUDLY BAKING BREAD WITH LOCAL AND NUTRITIOUS INGREDIENTS Available at our retail store, Calgary Co-op and select Sobey’s and Real Canadian Superstores 5310 5 ST SE 403.255.3515 TOP PICKS from Savour staff | SAVOUR SELECTS
EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 7
Chef Andrea Harling at Lil' Black Rooster Photo
provided
HIDDEN GEM: HOUSE OF KABOB
You’ve passed it a million times, but if you haven’t stopped at House of Kabob on Edmonton Tr. N.E., we’re telling you, it’s time you did. This family-owned gem is one of the oldest Persian restaurants in Calgary and not only offers a wide variety of kabob, but also hosts a small market for those looking for traditional ingredients for their home cooking.
Each meal comes with a generous serving of flatbread with butter, but do save room for your mains because the portions are generous. We began with a fresh Shirazi salad and corn and barley soup, both of which were delicious. Then, we opted for the House Special so we could sample a variety of kabob - all of which were incredible. The platter features one skewer of ground beef boneless chicken breast ( jujeh) and steak flame (barg ) seasoned and flame broiled served with one skewer of tomatoes and two plates of basmati rice. The chicken was our favourite as we’ve never had juicier chicken at home or out. We had a bit of rosewater ice cream for dessert, which was lovely. While known for the kabob, next time, we’re going to get more adventurous and dig into some of the traditional stews.
House of Kabob | 1115 Edmonton Tr. N.E. | 403.277.7151 | houseofkabob.ca
Leard 8 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
House of Kabob House Special
Camie
TOP PICKS from
RISING STAR
Second-year SAIT Culinary Arts student Erik Hansen is no stranger to competition. At just 20 years old he has already competed in the Skills Alberta Culinary Arts competition in Edmonton and the Taste Canada Cooks the Books Student Cooking competition in Toronto. It’s no surprise he was selected and won the annual culinary Trophée Jean Rougié student cooking competition in France this past January. Now in its 14th year, the esteemed French competition is historically only open to French students. This year they allowed an international candidate from SAIT, a decision that cost them the title. Through hard work and commitment to the craft, Erik earned the opportunity to compete alongside his mentors, SAIT culinary instructors Andrew Springett and Manuel Panfili
Together, they dedicated three months to research and preparation, honing skills for the upcoming challenge requiring a cold and hot dish. For the cold dish, Team Canada entered a terrine composed of a hazelnut sable crust, foie gras truffled mushroom duxelles, sous vide foie gras lobe, poached leek hearts, mulled Riesling, sliced smoked duck breast, foie gras leek and shallot emulsion and a poached Atlantic lobster tail, all encased in leek bands. Two garnishes accompanied the dish alongside a wild Saskatoon-and-huckleberry reduction. A 15-minute break was allowed before the hot dish “black box” ingredients were revealed. This challenge called for eight ingredients and eight techniques on one plate. Erik seared a piece of foie gras, created a Jerusalem artichoke puree, segmented a scallop and layered truffle in-between, poached and butter-glazed a carrot, pan-sautéed langoustines and razor clams, poached oysters, and created a chip using a potato. Erik and his team took home the trophy, prizes and accolades, but in the end, what this young man says mattered most was meeting Jean-Luc Danjou, the technical director of this world-renowned competition. His future looks bright. SAIT Culinary Arts Program | sait.ca
LADY M DEBUTS
Last fall Calgary’s newest cocktail, shisha and dessert lounge opened above Gyu-Kaku Japanese BBQ downtown. The 6 Lounge is a captivating space with a luxurious feel inspired by global trends and curated by owner Parviz Afzaly. The mid-century-inspired pink chairs, green banquettes and Instagram-worthy backdrops all set the stage for a sophisticated date night or extraordinary celebration. The fusion menu highlights tapas and small bites like chicken karaage, sushi tacos, ceviche, poke and tartare. This must-see-and-beseen bar exclusively carries New York City’s signature Lady M Mille Crêpe Cakes available in seven flavours. Since opening last fall, they’ve become a hotspot on the weekends with ladies’ nights, a DJ and they now offer weekend afternoon tea.*
The 6 Lounge 638 6th Ave. S.W. 825.540.1191 the6canada.com
KENSINGTON 10 81 2ND AVENUE NW 403.28 7. 8544 SPRUCE CLIFF / WILDWOOD 8 SPRUCE CENTER SW 403.45 2 .3960 MAHOGANY 2 171 MAHOGANY BLVD SE 58 7. 623 .1144 CROWFOOT CROSSING 826 CROWFOOT CRESCENT NW 403.241.3475 @piejunkieyyc | piejunkie.ca Sweet
Pot Pies Soups Comfort Food
Pies
Savour staff | SAVOUR SELECTS
SAIT culinary student Erik Hansen (centre) takes top prize
Lady M Mille Crepe Cake
Photo provided
EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 9
Photo provided
ROLLING IN DOUGH
Named after the Italian soccer team, Azzurri Pizzeria is a Neapolitan-style pizzeria and a well-loved Edmonton Tr. fixture. The eatery is run by the Ricioppo family, which has been serving Italian food in Calgary for decades. The family is known for some popular and now-closed restaurants including Il Pescatore, Gambero Rosso and the still-open La Luna Rossa Ristorante, located right next door. In 2015, brothers Faustino and Alessandro jumped on the idea of opening a pizzeria serving Italian pizza pie with a thin, chewy crust. Drop in and you’ll find both brothers working away. Alessandro makes the pizza, Faustino runs the front-of-house and mom Terry is on hand assisting where needed. It’s a favourite neighborhood gem with must-tries like the crostini, which is topped with crispy prosciutto, mozzarella and bruschetta, followed by the spicy La Testarossa or Pizza Bianco made with prosciutto cotto, mushrooms and goat cheese. Reservations are recommended.
EAST COAST STREET EATS
Founded by Josh Robinson, Blowers & Grafton started as a cozy donair and pizza shop on the Halifax waterfront. With a passion for food and business, Robinson aimed to share mouthwatering Halifax street food while shaping the foundation and future of the restaurant. In 2017, he opened the first Blowers & Grafton in Calgary, prioritizing authentic and fresh ingredients, sourcing Atlantic seafood from the Maritime provinces and donair meat from Nova Scotia. To date, they have expanded to seven locations in Calgary, Edmonton and Lethbridge, with plans for more. The newest Shawnessy location boasts a 220-seat capacity and a spacious patio with 180 seats. We devoured the fish & chips and mini lobster rolls and are plotting our return.*
Azzurri Pizzeria | 2404 Edmonton Tr. N.E. | 403.299.8774 | azzurripizzeria.ca
Blowers & Grafton Halifax Street Food + Bar bloweresgrafton.com
Soulful recipes inspired by Mamma Aurora straight from the heart of old Italy and made in-house daily.
Soulful recipes inspired by Mamma Aurora straight from the heart of old Italy and made in-house daily. part of our story. Check out Spolumbo’s for stress-free office, event and home catering. deli and ready-to-eat take-home meals are just waiting for you!
From working boardroom breakfasts and lunches to elegant fully serviced events, we bring you an unforgettable experience.
THE VERY BEST IN STRESS-FREE CORPORATE CATERING
in Inglewood at 1308 9 Avenue SE | spolumbos.com
of our story. Check out Spolumbo’s for stress-free office, event and home catering.
and ready-to-eat take-home meals are just waiting for you!
Inglewood at 1308 9 Avenue SE | spolumbos.com
Visit us online at spolumbos.com or call 403.817.0648 to consult with our knowledgeable planners.
Don’t forget our in-house deli and take-home meals.
deli
us in
part
us
Soulful recipes heart
La Testarossa pizza
Blowers & Grafton is a celebration of friendship, seafood and love for the East Coast
10 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Wanda Baker Photo provided
PICKS
EMBRACE YOUR INNER VILLAIN
Evil Corporation Brewing ’s mission is world domination through quality craft beer. The tale begins with four founders: Melanie Jackson from Saskatchewan, Calgarian Quan Ly plus Dan Piekut and Anthony Jackson who bring a touch of the UK to the Canadian brewing scene. The Evil Corporation branding is homage to their successful corporate backgrounds and a nod to the iconic evil corporations that once populated 1980s science fiction.
Think Alien, Terminator, Blade Runner, and RoboCop. It’s a playful blend of humour and a genuine passion for the craft. More than just a brewery, Evil Corporation creates an innovative space where beer becomes an experience. The recently unveiled taproom challenges conventions with a “no-barrier” approach that fosters direct and immersive engagement between customers and the brewing process. At the heart of this innovative setup stands a sleek, stainless-steel monolith adorned with LED lights, and a beer tower that dispenses a regularly rotating selection of brews from 16 taps. The team has also introduced a “charity beer of the month” initiative through which one dollar from every beer poured is donated to charity. We’ve been, we survived, and enjoyed the beers on tap including the Jalapeño Pilsner. It might be evil, but we like it.
Evil Corporation Brewing | 1220 20th Ave. S.E. | evilcorpbrewing.com
HIT THE MOTHERLODE
Motherlode Coffee is an 2SLGBTQ+-owned coffee roaster by Karissa Savage and Frieda Cornejo who are partners in business and in life. The couple launched the roastery in 2020 to help make a difference by supporting two charities that advocate for gender equality. Peruvian Hearts works to end poverty and gender inequality in Peru by educating young women, and the End of the Rainbow Foundation’s mission is to improve socioeconomic conditions for people of diverse sexual orientations and gender identities or expressions by providing education, programs and research. Cornejo is originally from Peru and this deep-rooted connection ensures every batch of coffee includes Peruvian beans. Coffee beans and apparel are available at grocery stores in Calgary and throughout Alberta, as well as online.
Motherlode Coffee | motherlodecoffee.ca
AT DALHOUSIE STATION 403.286.5220 www.zestkitchenware.com the secret behind the look ... Snack to Win Subscribe to The Snack, between March 15 and May 15 and you’ll be entered to win a Gourmet Gift Box from The Epicureans. Recipes, events, roundups and other tasty morsels, bi-weekly, right to your inbox. Scan to subscribe savourcalgary.ca/the-snack
TOP
from Savour staff | SAVOUR SELECTS
Motherload Coffee is an LGBTQ2+ and all female owned coffee roaster in Calgary
Evil Corporation Brewing crafts quirky batches of beer while embracing 1980s sci-fi vibes
Photo provided
EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 11
Photo provided
Pineapple
By ELLEN KELLY
Illustration by ALISON MARTIN
Despite the mild winter we've enjoyed, we know the cruel reality: Spring is still a long way off for those of us on the Alberta prairies. We’ve had our fill of dried fruits and nuts and last year’s root vegetables, as lovely as all these things are. Our commendable commitment to shopping local is sorely challenged and our “100-mile diet” diet has gone out the window. We long for something fresh. What to do? Pineapples! They’re available to some extent year-round but in season now, appearing just in time to help banish the winter blahs.
Pineapples are indigenous to South America, and have been cultivated there for centuries, but are now grown in tropical and sub-tropical regions all over the world. Belonging to the family Bromeliaceae, the pineapple is the edible (and commercially viable) variety among many simply decorative types, often grown as indoor plants. Columbus is credited with introducing the pineapple to Europe via Spain on his return from the island of Guadeloupe in the Caribbean. There, welcoming islanders would hang a pineapple outside their homes as a sign of a warm reception.
The pineapple, while intriguing, is not a very inviting creature. From the outside, it is spiky and fibrous and doesn’t readily suggest how to best get inside. There are a couple of interesting spiral-y methods to peeling a pineapple but let’s begin with a less complicated approach. Set the fruit on its side on a good cutting board and with a large sharp knife, cut off the top and bottom. Set it upright on the cut base and begin to slice, in a slight curve, from top to bottom until entirely peeled. Any remaining “eyes” can be removed with a small knife. For spears, cut the fruit in half lengthwise and then in quarters. Set each quarter flat on the board and cut out the fibrous core. Cut the fruit in slices and remove the core with a round cutter.
Asian-inspired Pineapple Marinade and Sauce
Pineapples contain a protease enzyme called bromelain which essentially breaks down proteins. This creates a tenderizing effect. The fruit and juice have a ceviche-like effect, “cooking” the meat or seafood as it marinates. But beware: over-marinating with pineapple can lead to a mushy unpalatable result.
As a guiding principle, start with 250 mL (1 cup) of fruit and juice to 450 g (1 lb) of meat and marinate for no more than 2-3 hours for beef, 1-2 hours for pork, 1 hour for poultry, 30 minutes for vegetables and as little as 15-30 minutes for fish and seafood. Canned or cooked pineapple (which denatures the enzyme) is less effective as a tenderizer but will still retain the flavour – perfect for delicate seafoods. This marinade, with thanks to BBQ guru Derrick Riches, is excellent for flank steak. The marinade can be turned into a sauce by reducing it down to a syrupy consistency.
Attempts to grow the plant failed until the mid-17th century when enterprising botanists from Europe began growing them in specially designed greenhouses. The few fruits were so labour-intensive to grow, only the very rich could afford them, thus taking the pineapple from a humble symbol of hospitality to one of wealth and status.
Pineapples are essentially ripe by the time we see them in the markets, in other words, they will not get any riper sitting on your counter. As a rule of thumb, a ripe pineapple will be yellow-ish (not orange), will give very slightly after a gentle squeeze and the base will smell sweet and inviting. Eschew any that have a fermented tang. Pulling a leaf or two from the centre to determine ripeness is not a particularly dependable method but do look for leaves that are pliable and green and avoid fruit that is soft or blemished. Heft a couple in your hands and go for the heaviest. This denotes juiciness which is a good indicator that the fruit is sweet and ripe.
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300 mL (1-¼cups) fresh pineapple, crushed
60 mL (¼ cup) honey
60 mL (¼ cup) soy sauce
60 mL (¼ cup) apple cider vinegar
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
10 mL (2 tsp) fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1.5 mL (¼ tsp) ground cloves
great
Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Use right away or keep refrigerated, covered, for a week.
TIP: Leave out the crushed pineapple and soy sauce, switch the cloves for cinnamon and use to baste grilled pineapple slices.
Scan for a beautiful recipe for pineapple jam!
cooking starts with GREAT INGREDIENTS. And great ingredients start with GREAT FARMERS
Homestead Bread Calgary, AB
Mans Organics Lethbridge, AB
Sunworks Farm Armena, AB
Gemstone Beef Gem, AB
Popular Bluff Organics East of Calgary, AB
FRESH this season | FRESH MARKET
WHAT’S
EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 13
According to the United Nations, the world's population is expected to hit nearly 10 billion people by 2050. If we’re to feed them all, we’ll need to produce 70 per cent more food. By embracing a mindful approach to our food, we can find ways to positively impact sustainability, the ethical treatment of animals and support for local communities. Possibilities include urban farming, agroecology and regenerative agriculture, alternative proteins, food-waste reduction, foodpolicy advocacy and supporting businesses that prioritize social and environmental impact. Making informed decisions about the food we consume ensures we are part of the solution.
GET SPICY
Family-run Sangster Sawmill is a master class in a waste-not-wantnot philosophy. Father-and-son team Vincent and Alex Sangster take scraps from their firewood operation, as well as fruitwood branches and trimmings from an arborist friend to create and sell custom kitchenware and other products. With Alex in the woodshop, Vincent at the saw and at the store and Alex’s partner Alaska helping out with operations, the team offers gorgeous resin-and-wood cutting boards, spice grinders, fruit hangers, melon ballers, honey dippers, grill scrapers and all sorts of products we use in our kitchens and beyond every day. Plus, of course, there’s the actual firewood that can be ordered in advance and delivered to the Crossroads Market for pickup in time for your next weenie roast.
Spice Grinder | The Sangster Sawmill | $60
Shop Local!
FOR THE PLANET
In 2004, Matt Moreau and Kori Chilibeck started the Earth Group selling bottled water on the streets of Edmonton to support charities battling world hunger. In 2011, Moreau and Chilibeck began supporting the United Nations World Food Programme to provide school meals to children around the world. Each year, they choose a new country to support, with the Philippines being the most recent. Given the increasing environmental impact of plastic bottles, in 2019 they started packing their Canadian spring water in lightweight, stackable, strong, recyclable and refillable aluminum bottles. The team recently added organic, fairtrade, Rainforest Alliance Certified Earth Coffee and Earth Tea made from Alberta-grown herbs to the lineup. For each case of water, box of tea or bag of coffee sold, Earth Group donates a week of meals. Under the UN program, girls can also bring meals home as an incentive for families to continue sending their daughters to school. To date, Earth Group has provided 4.7 million meals to kids around the world. Find them online or at locations like Italian Centre, Sunterra Market , Planet Organic, Safeway and Sobey’s. Additional products like sparkling flavoured waters and coffee pods are in development. Follow the website for updates. Earth Group | $2.50 - $35.50 | earthgroup.org
Scan the code for Earth Group’s 2016 Ted Talk at TEDx Canmore.
HASSLE FREE GARDENING
By WANDA BAKER
A Self-Watering Windowsill Planter is ideal for both beginners and seasoned urban gardeners. The design conserves water by providing the plants with just the right amount. It’s suitable for smaller spaces so even apartment-dwellers can garden. Each of the four containers can be removed for transplanting herbs or adding to the soil. Openings on the bottom allow the roots easy access to drinking water at their leisure, and a water-level indicator shows when it's time to replenish.
Lee Valley Tools | $29.90 | leevalley.com
14 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
TAKE A PEKO
Did you know that $3.1 billion worth of food is rejected annually for cosmetic reasons in Canada alone? Founded by then-UBC students Sang Le and Arielle Lok in 2021, Peko has since diverted more than 200,000 kg of “peculiar” food from the landfill by putting together mystery bags and boxes of imperfect produce and other food for delivery in Western Canada. In 2023, the team joined Calgary-based Fresh Prep to grow its distribution network and take advantage of Fresh Prep’s experience in the provision of sustainable, prepped food. You save an average of about 40 per cent off grocery-store prices and one dollar from every sale goes to the Leftovers Foundation. We love a win-win-win! Peko boxes and bags are delivered in Calgary every Wednesday.
Peko Mystery Box | $32.99 pekoproduce.com/shop
FARM TO FORK
Canada is one of the largest producers and exporters of pulses in the world. Grain legumes including beans, peas, lentils and chickpeas are nutritious, immunityboosting and a source of plant protein, fibre, vitamins and minerals. Equally important, pulses benefit the soil by adding nitrogen. Three Farmers Foods in Saskatoon is a collective made up by Natasha Vandenhurk , Elysia Vandenhurk , Dan Vandenhurk , Ron Emde and Colin Rosengren. They are passionate about connecting consumers to the origin of their food, and sustainable agriculture. Trace any of their products through all stages of production creating a personal connection to your farmer. Products include Crunchy Lentil Toppers, Roasted Fava Beans, Roasted Lentils and Roasted Chickpeas, Dark Chocolate Roasted Chickpeas and Camelina Oil. Try these items on salads, soups, yogurt, grain bowls, stir-fries, baked potatoes, dips, even casseroles. Find them online or locally at Bridgeland Market , Blush Lane, Sunterra Market , Wing’s Food Store, and Kosa Health
Three Farmers | $5.99 - $98.99 | threefarmers.ca
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EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 15
Let’s get one thing straight from the start. The definition of ethical eating is broad. It’s so broad we could write a book about it — and many have done just that. But if you’re new to what it is and why it matters, ethical eating considers the economic, social and environmental impact of the food you eat.
CONSCIOUS CONSUMPTION
that sort of thing — that’s extremely problematic,” says Vester. And consider who has access to that food. What’s being wasted? Who’s missing out?
By SHELLEY BOETTCHER
The subject touches on many areas, including climate change and the environment, animal welfare, food workers’ rights, food waste and access to nutritious food. If you mostly think about taste and price when you’re buying groceries or eating, you’re not alone. I’m the first to admit I’ve gasped out loud at the price of cauliflower and steak at the grocery store this year. But perhaps it’s time to think about the bigger picture. You may already be doing it without giving much thought to what you’re consuming. Your fave chocolate bar, for instance? Or your morning cup of coffee? Fairtrade certification ensures whoever has produced your coffee or chocolate has been paid fairly. Third-party organic certification lets consumers know their food has been produced without pesticides and with water and soil quality in mind. For some people, eating ethically means ensuring the meat they eat comes from farms where animals are raised — and the people who raise them — enjoy lives free from abuse: freerange chickens, for instance. Still others may see ethical eating as being vegetarian or vegan. “Many people just think about the price point of their food but once you start seeing things through the lens of ethical eating, you never unsee it,” says Kris Vester, who with his partner and family, owns and farms at Blue Mountain Biodynamic Farm northwest of Calgary. “It’s a complicated subject, right? But it’s a conversation we need to have.” Consider who harvests and processes your food, including both legal and illegal migrants and others. Are they treated fairly? “If someone is exploited — paid a pittance, housed atrociously,
According to the Leftovers Foundation, our food system wastes more than 3.2 million tonnes of edible food per year. Only around four per cent, or 100,000 tonnes of that food, is rescued and redirected. Some of the remaining 3.1 million tonnes of food is used for animal feed, biofuels, or compost, but the majority goes to landfills. Indeed, ethical eating is about ensuring people under the poverty line, including unhoused people, have access to good, healthy food. Jessica Watson is part of the Beltline Community Fridge, a fridge and heated pantry on 12th Ave. S.W., in front of the old YMCA. “It’s a place where people who have extra food can leave it for others, and when they need food, they can pick it up,” she says. “It’s available 24 hours, seven days a week, and there is no sign-up form.”
Eating Animals
Jonathan Safran Foer
Ethical Eating: How to make food choices that won’t cost the earth
Angela Crocombe
Calgarians are encouraged to simply pick up an extra bag at the grocery store and drop it off. In particular, fresh fruit and vegetables, single-serving foods like granola bars, packaged dry goods, bread and pastries are in need. (Raw meat and seafood and home-cooked meals are not accepted due to safety reasons.) Those in need can simply come by, take what they need and leave. To protect users’ privacy, Watson doesn’t have firm numbers on how many people access the Beltline Community Fridge but her group estimates it’s several hundred each week — many of whom are seniors who live nearby, new immigrants and unhoused Calgarians. “Our goal is to make food accessible to people who are dealing with food insecurity and to reduce food waste,” she says. “It’s about community building and solidarity.”
The Way We Eat: Why our food choices matter
READ
Peter Singer and Jim Mason
The group of founders came together “fairly organically,” she says, when they saw similar pantries popping up and realized that although traditional food banks fill a gap in food access, people have to apply to access them and then you have to get to one to benefit. If you live inner-city and lack access to transportation, that can be difficult, says Watson, who, like the founders, lives inner city and volunteers at Beltline Community Fridge almost daily. Eating ethically wasn’t a term Watson was familiar with until recently, although she was already practicing it. “Ethical eating is about paying attention to food as a right for all people,” she says, “and considering different ways we can prevent food waste and support our community.” On a similar note, Vester says he wishes people would think more about where their food comes from, to ensure there will be enough for others now and in the future. “What are we leaving for future generations?” he asks. “If we leave nothing, that’s seriously problematic in an ethical sense as well.”
Kris Vester
The Beltline Community Fridge team: Courtney Walcott, Sarah Papineau, Janet Stewardson, Bethany Ross, Astrid Duriques, Juliet Burgess, Kirsten Spak, Phil McCutcheon, Silvia Ross
Photo provided
16 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Photo provided
Want to get involved? Here are a few organizations who encourage and practice ethical eating in and around Calgary.
Beltline Community Fridge
Instagram: @beltlinefridge
Community fridge and pantry in Calgary, 221 12th Avenue S.W.
Blue Mountain Biodynamic Farms bluemountainbiodynamicfarms.com
Located about 75 kilometres northwest of Calgary, Blue Mountain is a family-owned mixed farm that raises poultry and hogs, as well as produces a range of crops, including vegetables and herbs. They operate an online grocery store and deliver to Calgary.
Brown Bagging for Calgary’s Kids bb4ck.org
As the name suggests, this group makes and distributes lunches for hungry children every day.
Leftovers Foundation rescuefood.ca
Connects donors of surplus good food (bakeries and restaurants, for instance) with service agencies (food banks etc.) who then distribute the food to vulnerable and low-income Calgarians who can use it.
Mealshare
Instagram @Mealshare
Aimed at ending youth hunger, Mealshare partners with local restaurants and charities and operates on a “buy one, give one” model. Dining out becomes helping out.
Soup Sisters soupsisters.org
Dedicated to donating soup to agencies and shelters across Canada. Thousands of litres are created for frontline organizations supporting those in need every year.
Villages Calgary villagescalgary.ca
HOW TO HELP
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LivingWell Executive Chef Liana Robberecht utilizes her unwavering passion, drive for excellence and ability to foster connections with others to influence positive change in
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her farm-to-table philosophy, Liana
EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 17
By SAVOUR CALGARY STAFF
MEAT, ETHICALLY
While plant-based diets are front-and-centre in the ethical eating conversation, some of us are simply carnivores. Fear not! Animal protein can still be produced and consumed ethically with organic and humane practices. Supporting local producers at area farmers’ markets is the easiest way to find multiple options all in one place.
REGINA’S FINE MEATS
When Cohen Rife was hired at Regina’s Fine Meats at the Crossroads Market 10 years ago, he was a man with a plan. Having worked on the production line at a small abattoir, he says he always knew he wanted to one-day run his own retail operation. So, to get experience on the other side of the meat business, he joined Regina’s operation. Having been in operation since 1984, Regina’s was the perfect training ground for Rife. When Regina announced her intention to retire five years ago, Rife was ready to step in and has since owned and operated the iconic Calgary butchery and meat market. When it comes to ethical eating (and ethical shopping), Rife says a few things are relevant when choosing meat.
“Find a small, local provider near you that you like and are comfortable with,” he says. “Ask them questions. Find out where they get their products from.” According to Rife, smaller producers are more likely to ensure their animals’ quality of life as well as more closely control their environment, food and other factors that can impact the quality and flavour of the meat.
“Plus, you’re supporting local business owners and local producers,” he says. Which, of course, lessens the carbon footprint of your meat,
keeps resources within the local economy and, with some of the megacorporations supplying meat to larger chains hailing from places like Brazil, you’re even helping prevent deforestation in the Amazon.
Rife says he loves supporting local operations like Flying Heart Meats outside of Strathmore, a producer dedicated to sustainable ranching practices, water conservation, soil health and the humane treatment of animals. He says what happens on the farm directly impacts the quality of the meat that ends up on his customers’ plates.
During our visit, Rife recommended a Berkshire/Hampshire-cross porkchop from Lodge Farms near Cochrane finished on the Loop Program, which redirects unsalable food from grocery stores to farm animals to reduce waste.
Regina’s Fine Meats | Crossroads Market | 1235 26th Ave. S.E. 403.836.4690 | @reginasfinemeats
SUNWORKS FARMS
Food allergies, a passion for the environment and a 10-day holistic farm management course were the catalysts for Ron and Sheila Hamilton to leave the city life and buy a farm in 1992. The goal: to manage their land, livestock, people and finances in a manner that is environmentally friendly and economically and socially sound.
Over the following decade, the couple transformed Sunworks first to organic hay production, and then to raising beef, chicken, pork, lamb and turkey organically, humanely and sustainably.
In the summer of 1998, Sunworks ventured into the farmers’ markets for the first time at the now-closed Blackfoot Market. In 2000, they started at the Strathcona farmers market in Edmonton and in 2004, they joined the fun at the Calgary Farmers’ Market
We found them at the new CFM West location and we’re keen to try their organic, gluten-free, certified-human Fennel and Spice sausage!
Sunworks Farms | Calgary Farmers’ Market West | 25 Greenbriar Dr. N.W. sunworksfarm.com
Shop online at FreshAndLocalFarmStore.com 1 block north of the Canyon Meadows LRT Located next to the Collective Beer Store D441, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE, Calgary 403.253.4988 Mon – Wed 11a-6p; Thu –Sat 10a-6p; Sundays 11a-5p YOU HAVE GREAT TASTE! 3X VOTED BEST GROCERY STORE Supporting local producers and food artisans is second nature to our community of shoppers. Thank you for supporting our small business and voting Fresh & Local Farm Store as Best Grocery Store in Calgary for the third year in a row. Shop with us first when you buy your groceries. MARKET REPORT SPONSORED BY:
Market Report
FRESH FROM the Farmers' Markets | MARKET REPORT
Regina’s Fine Meats owner Cohen Rife
Ron Hamilton Camie Leard
EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 19
Photo provided
By SAVOUR CALGARY STAFF
Eat-ivism 101
A CRASH COURSE
WHAT IS EAT-IVISM?
Eat-tivism is using your food choices to further social and ecological justice. In other words: ethical eating.
Food production has become rife with ecological issues (deforestation, greenhouse gasses, soil health degradation), human rights abuses (slavery, child labour, dangerous working conditions) and human health impacts (obesity, diabetes, heart disease, malnutrition, food deserts, food scarcity)
Frankly, it’s a real bummer. But we like to look at the bright side here at Savour Calgary and fortunately, there’s lots we can do to mitigate our impact without sacrificing our favourite foods.
SAY NO TO FACTORY FARMS
Known as Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations (CAFOs), factory farms pack as many animals into as small a space as possible to minimize the cost of raising each animal. The result is, well, cruel. And terrible for the planet. And for human health. Instead, find smaller, local producers.
GO LOCAL
Whether it’s at a grocery store or a farmers’ market, knowing who grew your food will help you make ethical choices. Were the chickens who laid your eggs footloose and fancyfree, or raised in cages stacked 10-high? Local producers known for ethical practices include: TK Ranch, Sunworks Farms and Lone Pine Colony and many others.
LOWER YOUR FOOD MILES
The average number of miles your food travels from farm to your Canadian plate is 3,000. So, how can we lessen the impact of eating fruits and vegetables year-round in our northern climate?
CHOOSE YOUR SELLERS
Hit the Stalls: Many of the local producers you’ll find in your research will sell direct to you at farmers’ markets. We have plenty in the Calgary area all summer long and the Crossroads, Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens and the two Calgary Farmers’ Market locations have your back year-round.
Know your Neighbours: Bridgeland Market , Sunterra Market , Italian Centre Store, Empire Provisions, Sunnyside Natural Market , Community Natural Foods and dozens of small neighbourhood groceries are a great way to support the local economy and get some recommendations from the folks who know best.
Join a CSA: Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) connects consumers with farmers where consumers pay for a share of the farm’s harvest up front and in return receive regular orders of fresh product (veggies, eggs, meat, flowers, grain, etc.) throughout the growing season. Check out yycgrowers.ca
Out and About:
Choose eateries with seasonal menus and those who buy from local producers. (River Cafe, The Coup, Mondays Plant Cafe.) Don’t know about your favourite eatery? Ask! It may prompt them to think more about it if they aren’t already.
Jocelyn Voortman at TK Ranch with a pasture-raised pig.
Fork in the Rowed at CFM West
20 WINTER 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Photo provided Camie Leard
SAVE IT FROM THE LANDFILL
EAT UGLY: Grocery sellers offer “imperfect” produce that’s cheaper than the regular stuff and just as delicious and nutritious. Blush Lane has a program and check out Peko in “Shop Local” on Page 14.
COMPOST: Use your green bin. Use it properly. Pat yourself on the back.
IT’S IN THE BAG: Legislation has forced us into this one because too many of us kept forgetting our cloth bags in the car (guilty!). You can also avoid plastic produce and bulk bags by bringing your own.
UPCYCLE: Did you know that local cidery SunnyCider will take those crabapples littering your lawn and make delicious drinks from them? The Food Bank , Veterans’ Food Bank and community fridges will also happily take things you won’t be eating.
BUY IN SEASON
When you can buy a strawberry grown in Alberta vs. one grown in California… do it! Sunterra Market grows its Dutchess strawberries in its local greenhouse! Also, plan your meals around what’s fresh at the market.
GROW YOUR OWN
We can actually grow quite a variety of vegetables in Calgary. From root vegetables to leafy greens, beans and tomatoes a Calgary gardener can eat well. And your food needs only travel from your backyard to your plate.
DO THE CAN CAN
Once you’ve worked hard in your garden all summer, you’ll likely have way more than you need (we’re looking at you, zucchinis). Preserve the excess to enjoy your zero-commute veg all year long.
The number one thing you can do to eat more ethically is to simply pay attention. Where did your food come from? How did it get here and in what sort of packaging? Who sold it to you? And where is it going when you don’t eat it all?
LABEL LITERACY
ORGANIC: Organic certification is a stringent process that requires producers and processors to adhere to a strict set of standards around things like pesticide use, GMOs, sustainable practices, animal welfare and others.
CERTIFIED ANIMAL
WELFARE APPROVED: The only label that guarantees animals are raised outdoors on pasture or range for their entire lives on an independent farm using truly sustainable, highwelfare farming practices.
CERTIFIED HUMANE: Scientific research, veterinary advice, and the practical experience of farmers are used to develop and continuously update Animal Care Standards.
GLOBAL ANIMAL
PARTNERSHIP: GAPs
Animal Welfare Certified program uses a tiered labeling strategy signaling how animals were raised.
FREE RUN or CAGE FREE: They’re not in cages, but they’re still in the (usually rather small) barn.
FREE RANGE: They’re in the barn, but they can go outside into a limited area for part of the day when weather permits.
PASTURE-RAISED: Chickens go where they want, when they want, forage for insects and grubs and live their best lives.
PASTURE RAISED + ORGANIC: Requires access to shade and protection from predators among other enhancements.
OCEAN WISE: A simple system of Ocean Wise or Not Recommended using sustainability assessments modeled on Monterey Bay's Seafood Watch program.
FAIR TRADE: Fair Trade
International certifies farmers, importers, traders, sellers and other participants in global trade who meet strict standards on economic, ecological and social justice impacts of their products and practices.
GMOS: Proponents say GMO produce is more nutritious, uses fewer pesticides and can make food more accessible. Detractors say it has a negative impact on biodiversity, can trigger allergies or allow gene transfer…whatever that is. If you’re concerned, the Non-GMO Project offers a verified seal shaped like a butterfly on products that meet its standards.
CALGARY HERITAGE ROASTING CO. canadianheritageroastingco.com
PHIL & SEBASTIAN philsebastian.com
49TH PARALLEL COFFEE 49thcoffee.com
KICKING HORSE COFFEE kickinghorsecoffee.com
COCOCO CHOCOLATIERS cococochocolatiers.com
CHOKLAT choklat.com
ROSE BROS rosebros.ca
CŌCHU CHOCOLATIER cochu.ca
Do Gooder
1 Name one local sustainable coffee or chocolate company.
2 Name one certification program for food.
3 What local company will make your crabapples into cider?
4 Name one locally-owned market in Calgary.
5 What’s the number one thing you can do to eat more ethically?
to submit
and enter to win a $75 gift card to Amaranth Whole Food Market. Answers will be printed in the next issue of Savour Calgary
Scan
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LOCAL, FABULOUS AND SUSTAINABLE
T H E CH IC K E N A N D T HE E GG
EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 21
By BARBARA BALFOUR
THE High-flying origins of IRISH COFFEE
If you’ve ever enjoyed the contrast of a hot, whiskey-spiked brew with a layer of cold, velvety hand-whipped cream, you can thank a certain stormy winter night in 1943.
That’s when the world-famous after-dinner drink we know as Irish coffee was invented in a tiny airport in the village of Foynes, Ireland.
When a New York-bound flight suddenly had to turn back to the Foynes Airport to await better weather, passengers sought refuge in the terminal’s restaurant. Tasked with warming them up, local chef Joe Sheridan added a generous pour of Irish whiskey and cream to their coffees. It was an immediate hit. When asked whether the drink was of Brazilian origin, Sheridan wittily replied, “No, that was Irish coffee.” Long after the airport moved across the estuary to Shannon International Airport in 1945, Irish coffee continued its status as a welcoming drink for travelers, which included world presidents and Hollywood celebrities.
Head Mixologist Douglas Lee of The Dorian Hotel makes an Irish coffee.
22 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
Photo provided
And Irish coffee did some travelling of its own. In 1952, it embarked on a transatlantic adventure when travel writer Stanton Delaplane brought the recipe back to the historic Buena Vista cafe in San Francisco, whose owner eventually recruited Chef Sheridan to the United States to shape the presence of Irish coffee there.
Today, the old airport is the Foynes Flying Boat and Maritime Museum, where visitors can also take a master class on making the perfect Irish coffee. And it’s particular.
“It must only be served in a six-ounce stemmed coffee glass,” says Head Mixologist Douglas Lee of Calgary’s Dorian Hotel.
“You have to warm the glass first, because a room temperature glass will steal away the heat the moment you pour in the coffee. The cream must be lightly hand-whipped into soft peaks; there’s no squirting from a canister here.
“You can find many amazing riffs on cocktails out there, but you don’t want to mess with a classic like Irish coffee.”
Chef Sheridan’s ORIGINAL RECIPE
Warm a stemmed glass by placing a teaspoon in it and filling it with boiling water for 5 seconds. Discard the water. Add 1 teaspoon of brown sugar (Lee uses 1/2 ounce of Demerera syrup) and a generous measure of Irish whiskey. While the original recipe calls for Powers whisky, Lee uses 1 and 1/4 ounces of Jameson because of its origins in Dublin, the birthplace of Oscar Wilde for whom the hotel is named.
Fill the glass nearly to the brim with hot, freshly brewed black coffee (about 2 1/2 ounces according to Lee). Stir well to dissolve the sugar.
Gently pour lightly whipped cream over the back of a teaspoon, allowing it to float on top of the coffee.
Enjoy the hot coffee and Irish whiskey through the cool whipped cream.
As they say in Ireland, sláinte!
If a trip to Ireland isn’t in the cards, here are three Calgary restaurants ready to transport you there with authentic Irish coffees this St. Patrick’s Day:
The Wilde on 27 at the Dorian Hotel: With 11 Irish whiskies in its collection, where better to experience this classic libation than from the hands of a skilled mixologist of Irish descent, at a hotel named after an Irish playwright?
The Hawthorn Dining Room and Lounge at the Fairmont Palliser Hotel: If you like your drinks with a side of fire, you’ll want a seat here at the bar on March 17. That’s the only day of the year the whiskey is set ablaze as your Irish coffee is being prepared.
Last Best Brewing & Distilling: Offered only on St. Patrick’s Day, the Buena Vista Irish Coffee is made using the exact same recipe as at the legendary San Francisco cafe.
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EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 23
Story and photos
by HETAL BULSARA
GOAN COCONUT FISH CURRY
Seafood and coconut are popular in Goa, a state that sits on the southwestern coast of India. True to its origin, this Goan coconut fish curry beautifully combines flaky fish with the rich, creamy texture of coconut milk. Alongside aromatic flavours like garlic, ginger, onions, cumin and black pepper, this curry is creamy and bursting with flavour. It also uses the tang of tamarind and the sweet, nutty flavor of shredded coconut, offering an all around treat to the senses! Enjoy hot with rice and/ or naan, and a side of green salad.
Gravy mixture
1-3 Kashmiri or any dried chili peppers (depending on preferred spice level)
5 ml (1 tsp) minced garlic
5 ml (1 tsp) whole black peppers
5 ml (1 tsp) whole coriander
5 ml (1 tsp) whole cumin
5 ml (1 tsp) turmeric
5 ml (1 tsp) tamarind paste
1 can coconut milk
125 ml (½ cup) shredded unsweetened coconut
15 ml (1 Tbsp) salt
Vegan alternative
Simply replace the cream with coconut milk and replace the fish with mushrooms and sautéed tofu or peas and preboiled potatoes.
Curry
45 ml (3 Tbsp) coconut butter
2 medium chopped onions
5 ml (1 tsp) minced ginger
175 ml (¾ cup) tomatoes (whole , puréed in a blender)
2 cups sliced mushrooms
¹/³ kg (¾ lb) neutral flavored fish cut into 5-cm (2-inch) cubes (I used Atlantic cod)
250 ml (1 cup)
half and half cream (more if needed)
60 ml (¼ cup) water
15 ml (1 Tbsp) brown sugar or honey
Method
Purée the gravy mixture ingredients in a blender until there are no gritty bits left.
Add the coconut butter to a pan on medium heat. Once it has melted, add the onions and ginger. Sauté until slightly golden brown, stirring often, around 10-12 minutes.
Now add in the puréed tomatoes and sizzle further until the oil separates from the tomatoes (around 5-6 minutes), stirring occasionally.
Pour in the gravy mixture and stir. Cover with a lid, and continue cooking for an additional 12 minutes, occasionally giving it a stir.
Add in the mushrooms, fish, cream, water and brown sugar. Stir and simmer until the fish is thoroughly cooked (around 5 minutes). You can add water ¼ cup at a time if you prefer a saucier curry.
Taste, add more salt if you prefer. Serve with rice or naan and enjoy!
Cumin Rice
Add 5 ml (1 tsp) cumin seeds, 2.5 ml (½ tsp) turmeric and 5 ml (1 tsp) salt to the rice and cook as normal.
24 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
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of
Calendar of Upcoming Events
Reservations are essential. Details are on our website. 40 minutes north of Calgary | 403.337.2800 or 1.800.679.7999 | www.pasu.com Senior’s day trip lunch package available EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 25
BRING “HAPPI” HOME
Wendy Brownie invites you to discover her colour-filled “happi” place – Inspirati Fine Linens and Home Essentials. Feast on the newest Le Jacquard Français offerings (these are not your mother’s linens), a spread of bohemian and mod patterns that are woven into each delightful piece. Find mouth-watering colours and textures that celebrate spring and summer including elegant coated tablecloths that can withstand your most exuberant red-wine-tipping dinner guests.
Inspirati | 120, 1900 11th St. S.E. | 403.244.4443 | inspirati.ca
PLAY WITH YOUR FOOD
After extensive renovations, National’s Beltline location, National on 10th, reopened in late 2023 with a gorgeous dining room, high-vibe lounge and playrooms for grownups with bowling, foosball, video games and karaoke on the upper levels. The food menu will have something for everyone with all of the lounge classics covered plus the occasional Asian-inspired dish for fresh flavours. If you like your sweets, try the NTNL Ice Cream Sandwich with lots of peanut butter and chocolate gelato squished between two peanut butter cookies and dipped in more chocolate and nuts.
National on 10th | 341 10th Ave. S.W. | 403.474.2739 | ntnl.ca
EGG-SCUSE ME!
Renowned Indian fast-casual chain Eggholic opened its first Calgary location in Skyview Ranch in January. All eggs all the time, this eatery is known for its delicious sandwiches and much more. Vegan options are also available. Eggholic | 4150 109th Ave. N.E. | 587.625.0334 | theeggholic.com
WE NEED TO CHAAT
Every now and again we come across a dish we just have to share. The Chaat Papdi at Cinnamon Indian Cuisine & Bar in the Beltline is one such dish. Fresh, crispy, a little bit spicy and absolutely delicious, chaat papdi (AKA papri chaat) is made with fried flour-crisps, chickpeas, potatoes, chutneys and other delights.
Cinnamon | 101, 1207 11th Ave. S.W. 403.290.1777 | cinnamoncalgary.ca
KK
BEAN-TO-BAR
ChoccoLush is an award winning, Calgarybased, bean-to-bar chocolate studio. Their chocolate is made with ethical cacao beans, maple sugar and whole nuts and fruit. Plantbased and gluten free, ChocoLush is feelgood chocolate! Check website for sellers.
Choccolush | 7337 Macleod Tr. S.W. 587.333.7990 | choccolush.ca
It means ok in texts, but it stands for Kaboora Kabob in the latest addition to Crescent Heights Village on Edmonton Tr. N.E.’s food offering. With the first location in Calgary Farmers’ Market West, KK Shawarma offers only halal meat with fresh ingredients and delicious sauces. KK Shawarma | 718 Edmonton Tr. N.E. | 403.803.9323 | kkshawarma.com
GET OUT
YYC EXP is back March 15 to 31, showcasing the diverse and delicious restaurant scene in Calgary with 17 days of delectable multi-course set menus and signature culinary events to explore at the city’s top restaurants.
YYC EXP | yycexp.com
FRANCINE FRANÇ AISE
The latest pop-up in the downtown Meat & Bread location, Francine’s is a petit French bar created by bar manager Nate Wry and chef Garrett Martin. Showcasing old-world cocktails, spirits and aperitifs with craveable, tavern-focused and French-accented fare, Francine’s will transport you to late nights on the side streets of Paris — in the heart of Calgary.
Francine’s | 821 1st St. S.W. | 587.226.2237 (text only) | francines.ca
BULGOGI TIME
You asked for it and Oppa has delivered. Indulge in all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue in Crescent Heights Village on Centre St. For $34.99 you can gorge on all your Korean favourites. Kids eat half price.
Oppa Korean BBQ | 1715 Centre St. N.W. | 825.513.5284 | @oppabbq.yyc
Sample the city’s best during YYC Expo
Cinnamon’s Chaat Papdi
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Camie Leard
26 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
The Mumbai tablecloth's rich and captivating patterns celebrate Indian traditions. Make every meal a multi-sensory journey.
HAPPY HERBIVORES
Calgary authors Janet Melrose and Sheryl Normandeau have put their local gardening know-how into their latest book, The Prairie Gardener’s Go-To for Herbs. Melrose is passionate about horticultural therapy and runs Calgary’s Cottage Gardener. Normandeau is a certified prairie horticulturalist and freelance writer specializing in gardening. Herbs offers highly local advice on how to grow herbs for your kitchen in our climate.
The Prairie Gardener’s Go-To for Herbs TouchWood Editions | touchwoodeditions.com
DOUBLE WIN
Congrats to Canmore’s Wild Life Distillery, which won double gold at the 2024 Canadian Whisky Awards. The distillery secured two coveted gold medals for its exceptionally smooth and nuanced Wild Life Wheat Whisky and Wild Life Rye Whisky with its bold and distinct character.
Wild Life Distillery | 160, 105 Bow Meadows Cr., Canmore | 403.678.2800 wildlifedistillery.ca
TOUGH CHOICES
Canmore’s Epicureans Culinary Adventures has announced its Spring 2025 dates and destinations and they’re going to be fabulous.
Visit Catalunya, Spain April 26-May 2, or Bordeaux and St. Emilion, France May 9-16 for a delicious adventure of a lifetime. Spots fill up fast, so don’t delay.
Epicureans Culinary Adventures 403.763.0046 | epicureans.ca
LEARN N’ DINE
SIP AND READ
Earlier this year the Calgary Public Library announced Canadian company Second Cup as the new food and beverage partner for its central location. The interior kiosk is expected to open sometime this spring, with an exterior café opening later this year.
Second Cup | Calgary Public Library 800 3rd St. S.E. | secondcup.com
Learn to make chiles rellenos with Salsita. The immersive dinner and class will have you falling in love with this vegetarian and gluten-free Mexican classic. Set for March 29, 2024, 6:30 p.m. – 8:30 p.m., the evening includes an appetizer, entrée, dessert, a non-alcoholic beverage, instructions, ingredients and recipes all for just $57.75 per person. Call or email info_salsita@shaw.ca to register.
Salsita Mexican Food Market | 777 Northmount Dr. N.W. | 403.289.2202 | salsita.ca
MEAT WITH A SIDE OF PIZZA
Charcut 2.0 opens this spring in the University District , inside the new Alt Hotel. Discover The Butcherina, a private dining room and a walk-up take-out window featuring Connie & John’s whole New York- and Detroit-style pizzas.
Charcut | 4150 University Ave. N.W. | charcut.com
hawthrondiningroom.ca
KUDOS TO CHEF GARICA!
The Fairmont Palliser Hawthorn Dining Room & Bar’s Chef de Cuisine Rupert Garcia competed against the best chefs from across Canada in the Canadian Culinary Championship and was awarded silver! After winning gold in the regional qualifier competition last November, Garcia and nine other Canadian chefs flew to Ottawa to compete in the two-day championship involving a mystery wine pairing challenge, a black box competition and the grand finale event presenting their signature dish. Visit Hawthorn for more of Chef Garcia’s delightful cuisine.
Hawthorn Dining Room
133 9th Ave. S.W. | 403.260.1219
Canmore’s Wild Life Distillery wins double gold at the 2024 Canadian Whisky Awards
Visit European markets during your culinary adventure tour Chef De Cuisine Rupert Garcia with his trophy
Connie DeSousa and John Jackson set to open Charcut 2.0 this summer
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28 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
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FOR THE COOKIE MONSTERS
Biscettes is a new, locally owned cookie bakery specializing in daily fresh-made cookies from scratch. Ten flavours are available and those craving more than a cookie can purchase and personalize a cookie cake.
BISCETTES BAKERY | 1516 6th St. S.W. | 403.454.6200 | biscettes.com
MADE WITH ♥
Banff’s Food and Cocktail Festival, MADE WITH LOVE , returns April 19 – May 4 in Banff. Follow the website for updates and ticket information.
MADE WITH LOVE | madewithlovebanff.com
ON THE MOVE
ACME Pizza Co. has officially announced a new home in Sunalta. Find this tasty pizza at Tailgunner Brewing Co. with a second location offering take-out only in Renfrew
ACME Pizza Co. in Tailgunner Brewing Co. | 1602 10th Ave. S.W. acmepizza.ca
MORE MOMO TO LOVE
Calgary Momo House is opening a second location in the northwest offering the same authentic Nepali cuisine they are known for. The exact address had not been disclosed at press time. Check the website for updates.
Calgary Momo House | calgarymomohouse.com
THE BEAST IS BACK
Brewery & the Beast ’s festival of meat, beer and music returns this summer showcasing Calgary’s finest chefs, restaurants and beverages. Tickets go on sale April 15.
Brewery & the Beast | breweryandthebeast.com
Wine Wednesday Enjoy half-priced bottles of wine Tuesdate Night Prix-fixe perfection with a bottle of wine and complimentary valet Flute Friday Sip on $20 glass pours of Moët & Chandon or Veuve Clicquot Champagne Homestyle Sunday Dinner Savour a weekly crafted menu with complimentary valet parking ELEVATE YOUR WEEK hawthorndiningroom ca 133 9 Ave SW Calgary 403-260-1219
NEWS, notes & happenings | QUICK BITES
Dumplings are life
Brewery & the Beast returns August 2024
New cookie bakery Biscettes has opened offering cookies made fresh daily
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EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca 29
Photo provided Wanda Baker
DOUBLE TROUBLE
Following hot on the heels of another successful event in 2023, Terroir Symposium returns in May and again in November 2024 with a two-part series. Watch the website for ongoing updates.
Terroir Symposium | terroirsymposium.com
THE SUNNY SIDE OF LIFE
Check out SunnyCider ’s new no-alcohol cider, Sunny Soda Owner Dennis Scanlan says the demand for low-alcohol or no-alcohol beverages is way up in the last few years and the new soda hits the spot. Buy online, in their taproom and at select grocery stores.
SunnyCider Cidery and Taproom
1, 3300 14th Ave. N.E. 403.454.0638 sunnycider.ca
FROM THE WINTER ISSUE
BRAIN DUMP-LING Quiz Answers
Congratulations to Caitlyn Anderson, our winner of a $50 Spolumbo’s gift card. Here are the answers to last issue’s “Crash Course” quiz. Enter this issue’s quiz on Page 21.
1. What adorable dumpling is native to Nepal? Momo
2. What marauding group of empire builders brought dumplings to Korea and Eastern Europe? Mongolians
3. In which general’s army did an entire battalion reportedly choke on dumplings, foiling their siege in Germany? Napoleon
4. After what dumpling did the Cincinnati Zoo name a baby penguin? Pierogi
5. What are xiaolongbao commonly known as in English? Soup dumplings
NEWS, notes & happenings |
QUICK BITES
Wanda Baker
Camie Leard
Chef Shane Chartrand at Terroir Symposium in 2023
30 EARLY SPRING 2024 SAVOUR CALGARY.ca
SunnyCider’s new Sunny Soda
March 15-31, 2024
Calgary’s premier culinary festival celebrating 17 days of delectable prix fixe dining and one-of-a-kind inspired signature events.
yycexp.com | #YYCEXP
MasaLa: An Indian-Mexican Pop-Up at Fonda Fora, SATURDAY MAR 16
Clos de la Oyster Barre at Teatro, SUNDAY MAR 17
Francine’s & Bar Gigi Pop-Up ,TUESDAY MAR 19 & WEDNESDAY MAR 20
River Café hosts änkôr & Major Tom, FRIDAY MAR 22
Knife Fight: Mexico vs Canada Chef Duel at The Wilde on 27, THURSDAY MAR 28
Rough Drafts Collaborative Dinner Pop-Up at Model Citizen, SATURDAY MAR 30—and more!
BAKERY & CAF • AROMA CAFE BAR • BAR CHOUETTE • BARBARELLA BAR • BIG FISH & OPEN RANGE • BONTERRA TRATTORIA • BOROUGH BAR & GRILL • BOW VALLEY RANCHE RESTAURANT • BRIDGETTE BAR • BUCHANAN’S CHOPHOUSE • BUSINESS & PLEASURE • CALCUTTA CRICKET CLUB • CHARBAR • CHARCUT DOWNTOWN • CONTINENTAL RESTAURANT • CUCINA MARKET BISTRO • DEANE HOUSE • DONNA MAC • EARLS • EMBARCADERO WINE AND OYSTER BAR • FINEPRINT • FLOWER & WOLF • FONDA FORA • FORTUNA’S ROW • HAWTHORN • IL BIVIO • KAMA • KLEIN / HARRIS • LONELY MOUTH • LULU BAR • MILESTONES GRILL & BAR • MILPA • MINAS BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE • MODEL MILK • MODERN STEAK • MURRIETA’S WEST COAST BAR & GRILL • NATIONAL ON 10TH • NOTABLE THE RESTAURANT • NUPO • OEB BREAKFAST CO. • OLEA •
• ORCHARD
OUR
• PAMPA
• PAZZI
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RESTAURANT • RUTH’S
• SALTLIK •
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• SKY 360 • SMUGGLER’S • SWEET
• TEATRO
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• THE
• THE JAMES
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• THE WEDNESDAY
• THE
• THOMSONS
• VENDOME • YELLOW
ALFORNO
ONYX
RESTAURANT •
DAILY BRETT
BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE
PIZZERIA
PIGEONHOLE
PRIMARY COLOURS
RIVER CAFÉ
ROUGE
CHRIS STEAK HOUSE
SENSEI BAR
SHOKUNIN
LORETTA BAR
RISTORANTE
THE BANQUET
CANADIAN BREWHOUSE
JOYCE IRISH PUB • THE LIVING ROOM • THE NASH
THE NATIONAL
ROOM
WILDE ON 27
KITCHEN & BAR
DOOR BISTRO AND MORE — YYC EXP 2024 SIGNATURE CULINARY EVENTS—
You have great taste!
The heart of our Fresh & Local community is our collective commitment to food innovation. Through excellent service and meals we embrace the needs of our diners and shoppers.
Thank you for voting the Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens as the Best Farmers Market in Calgary for the third year in a row.
Get together with friends and family to enjoy our global culinary experiences.
AWARD WINNING FOOD INNOVATION
THE BEST PLACE TO SHARE A MEAL 146 DIFFERENT WAYS IN CALGARY
426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE • Ph: 403•475•4155 • Thursday – Saturday 11a-8p; Sundays 11a-5p • www.FreshAndLocal.ca 3X VOTED BEST FARMERS MARKET VOTED
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