ScandAsia Thailand - June 2012

JUN 2012

Thailand

Koh Phangan Walking Meditation

Theme: Precious Gulf of Thailand ScandAsia.dk

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Opinion

Population in the Asian Century The world’s population grew by two per cent per annum in the late 1960s, and if this rate had been maintained, it would have exceeded 18 billion in 2050.

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Today, the United Nations Population Division projects a population of around nine billion by that time.

The world’s population is now estimated to be half of what it might have been primarily because of the widespread success that Asian countries have achieved in reducing their birth rates.

In their classic 1958 book, Population Growth and Economic Development in Low-Income Countries, Ansley Coale and Edgar M. Hoover argued that a reduction in fertility would reduce the number of children that a country needed to support while, at the same time, having little or no impact on the size of the labour force for the following two decades.

They argued that the reduction in child dependency would reduce consumption and increase savings and investment, which, in turn, would stimulate economic growth. Additionally, greater emphasis could be placed on the education and development of the next generation so the country’s pool of human capital would also be enhanced.

Many Asian countries accepted this idea, leading to family planning programs that have had a huge impact on population growth in the past 40 years — and, in China, the idea also led to the one-child policy. It is hard to argue that rapid economic development in most of the countries that lowered their birth rates — including Japan, South Korea, China, India and some Southeast Asian countries — is not associated with this strategic approach. Today, very few countries in Asia have birth rates above three children per woman. The remaining countries with high fertility, countries such as Pakistan, Afghanistan, Timor-Leste and Iraq also support the case that high fertility is a major obstacle to economic development.

Population growth rates in Asia have fallen despite significant increases in life expectancy. For Asia as a whole, life expectancy at birth has risen from 48 years in 1960 to 70 years in 2010. Substantial and simultaneous falls in both fertility and mortality mean that Asian countries are ageing much more rapidly than has been the case in Western countries. With 30 per cent of its population aged 60 years and over, Japan already has the oldest population in the world. Japan will get a lot older than this in the next 40 years, with nearly half of its population projected to be 60 and over in 2050. Again, in comparison with the West, Asian countries have had little time to develop policies that prepare them for rapid ageing.

The emergence of very low fertility rates, particularly in East Asia, has exacerbated this trend toward ageing populations. The average number of births per woman in 2010 was 1.39 in Japan, 1.15 in South Korea, 1.16 in Singapore, 0.91 in Taiwan and 1.11 in Hong Kong.

The fertility rate in China is disputed but is probably between 1.2 and 1.4 births per woman. These are the lowest fertility rates in the world and are a real cause for concern: a country with a sustained fertility rate of 1.3 will see the grandchild’s generation fall to 40 per cent of the size of the grandparent’s generation.

But well before population decline becomes a problem, such countries will experience a sharp fall in the size of their labour forces, which will coincide with the most rapid expansion of the number of citizens making up a country’s aged population.

This process is more advanced in Japan and is referred to as a demographic malaise. Countries may well adjust to gradual falls in labour supply, but it is unlikely that they can adjust easily to precipitous falls, especially at a time when the aged population is increasing rapidly. All Asian countries with a fertility rate of under 1.5 births per woman, except China for the time being, see this as a major issue and are looking for policy approaches to increase fertility. So far, they are failing badly. For small countries like Singapore, immigration is a possible approach, but it is faced with popular resistance. A shortage of young, skilled workers is a greater problem in periods of rapid technological change because young workers tend to be the assimilators of new technology.

Under these circumstances, China would be wise to end the one-child policy. But its government remains under the illusion that fertility would rise rapidly if the policy were to be ended. Will other countries such as Japan and South Korea be able to raise their fertility rates in the future? Very low fertility often results from the difficulty that many women face in combining paid employment with having children. But there is little sign that employers in low-fertility East Asian countries like Japan and South Korea are willing to make the changes to employment conditions that would facilitate the combination of work and family. Consequently, very low fertility is expected to continue.

Peter McDonald is Professor of Demography and Director of the Australian Demographic and Social Research Institute at the Australian National University.

This post is part of the series on the Asian Century which feeds into the Australian government White Paper on Australia in the Asian Century.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY SCANDINAVIAN SOCIETY

CONTENTS 14

16

JUNE 2012

8 Coming Events 9 Past Events 14 Mess Boy in Charge of Mermaid Hotel 16 Danish Mentor for Small Business Start-ups 18 Precious Gulf of Thailand 36 Exodus 38 Excursions with The Siam Society 40 Inspiration & Promotion 42 Sudoku & Rhubarb Desert

19

22

42

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Coming Events EABC Position Papers Launch Date: Thursday 28 June 2012 EABC (European Asean Business Centre) will officially launch the first EABC Position Papers. The papers will point to areas, where the EABC believes Thailand could improve itself. Later on, the EABC will follow up to what extend Thailand is improving within each of the areas focused on in the Position Papers. The launch targets about 300 high-level participants from relevant Thai authorities and media participants from leading media channels. It will also promote EABC’s visibility as policy dialogue partner representing the voice of European business in Thailand.

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Full Moon Party Date: Tuesday 3 July 2012 Location: Koh Phangan Young people are drawn to the full moon party at Koh Phangan by its reputation for excess anarchic hedonism and the availability of unlimited cheap alcohol. Another lure might be this particular party’s reputation for ending up with someone you would otherwise never have got to known.

Cooking Club Date: Thursday 12 July 2012,

2 pm – 4 pm Location: L-Avenue, G floor,

Samitivej Sukhumvit Hospital

Soi 49 By creating awareness around food, samitivej supports your individual needs to live a healthy lifestyle and is therefore inviting you to join their cooking club with chef Cheewin Kachwdecha and chef Thammanoon Pornadireklap. To register, please contact pitchawadee at 027118473 or email: pitchawadee.sa@samitivej.co.th

8 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Pattaya International Marathon Date: Sunday 15 July 2012 Location: Pattaya The Pattaya International Marathon is one of the most famous marathons in Thailand that is organized yearly. Every year, there are many runners participating from various countries. In all, there are three races: the full marathon (42 km), the half marathon (21km) and the quarter marathon (10km) For more information - www.torismthailand.org or www.pattaya-marathon.com.

Norway’s 17 May Celebration in Bangkok

By Rose Jensen

F

or Norwegian children, the 17th of May is one of the happiest days of the year. They parade, perform, play games and eat as much ice cream as they want.

In Bangkok, the 17 May was as usual celebrated at the Royal Norwegian Embassy. This year with more than 150 attendees.

Unfortunately, the rain started pouring down, so there were no games for the children. But the rain could not stop both children and adults from enjoying traditional food like salmon and hot dogs.

The day started with a speech

by Ms. Thitikul Opdal, Chairman of the 17th of May Committee, before the parade and the marching band took off down the road. Children and adults walked along singing among others the Norwegian National Hymn while waving Norwegian flags.

During the celebration in the garden of the Ambassador, keynote speaker was H.E. Ambassador Katja Nordgaard herself followed by younger speakers, her daughter Elida Nordgaard Unneberg and Maya Haldorsen.

Katja Nordgaard mentioned in her speech the horrific killings that took place in Norway on 22nd of July last year.

“We are still traumatized by these horrendous deeds. Of course, no political or other conviction can justify these acts of terror. They must be condemned and the society must treat them like the terrible crimes they are,” she said.

Ms. Katja Nordgaard then looked back at the history of Norway.

“In 1814 we – the Norwegians - were almost 2 million people. That number went down over the next hundred years due to massive emigration to places with a promise of a better life, while Norway remained one of the poorest countries in Europe,” she said.

“Today there are five millions of us. And we are becoming a more colourful and multi-cultural society.

More than half a million of us, or 10 per cent of the population, have immigrant backgrounds. One big group is of course the Thais, more than thirteen thousand!”

At the end of her speech Ms. Nordgaard read the congratulatory telegram from H.M. King Harald.

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 9

Swedish Networking with Pyttipanna

By Rose Jensen

I

t’s no secret that Swedes love their Pyttipanna, especially when they get to enjoy the traditional dish including free flow of beers and wine with their fellow colleagues and friends.

On Thursday 7 June, it was time for the Thai-Swedish Chamber of Commerce to host their monthly networking event with Swedish defence company Saab as the big sponsor of the evening.

The monthly networking usually consist of Swedes living in Bangkok, but this time there were both Danes, Swedes and Fins who happened to be in town for business and decided to make an appearance for some networking and socializing.

Held at Huntsman’s Pub in the basement area of Landmark Hotel Bangkok, the networking evening was attended by prominent Swedes such as Bjorn Richardson, Oakwood Residencel; Mikael Olsson, General Manager, Saab; Fredrik Lager, General Manager of SEB(Private Banking) in Singapore; Christer Holmvall, Vice President of International Operations at NPS Corps and many more.

All in all, there were more than 60 people at this evening which turned out to be a really successful and fun evening with heaps of new people coming to check out the networking.

10 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Successful Danish Golf Day

By Rose Jensen The Golf Section of the Scandinavian Society Siam hosted the ‘Danish Golf Day’ at the Thana City Golf Club on Saturday 19th of May. The 18 holes of golf was also the season-ending tournament in the extensive tournament schedule of SSS – Golf Section.

The winner of the Danish Golf Day was Bjarne Kjersner, who shot a 3-over 75 to become winner in the A-group and overall.

As the last tournament in the 20112012 schedules, a Most Valuable Player (MVP) and a Putting Champion for the whole season was crowned.

With some very steady scores through-out the year, the host’s very own Golf Captain, Kristian Wensell ended up as the MVP of the year.

When it comes to putting, no one was able to beat Juha Saarinen, who averaged less than 28 putts per tournament.

The sponsors of the event included, ECCO, Carlsberg, SAS, Brush Sanding Asia, Eva Solo, Pacific Orientation Relocation, Phothalai Spa & Wellness, Scandmach Asia, Scanproducts, the Masters House of Golf and VIKING Life-Saving Equipment.

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June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 11

Danish Networking Evening at Stable Lodge

D

anish-Thai Chamber of Commerce held its monthly networking event in May at Stable Lodge, the Scandinavian hotel and restaurant in Sukhumvit Soi 8. Due to heavy rain only 30 members and guests from various industries attended the event.

Most of the participants already knew each other and enjoyed mingling with old friends while meeting a few new ones as well. Delicious Danish finger food provided by the hotel’s restaurant was served throughout the evening with plenty of Carlsberg beer.

Norwegian Summer Party at Hotel Muse

By Rose Jensen

T

he Thai-Norwegian Chamber of Commerce held a Summer Party for their members and friends on Wednesday 6th June. The chamber had reserved a room at the 23rd floor of Hotel Muse for their guests to mingle, which included one outdoor patio with a spectacular view over Bangkok city. There were appetizers and plenty of wine available for everyone and the atmosphere was casual and festive.

Many of the participants were board members of the Chamber including President, Axel Blom and Executive Director, Kristine Hasle.

Other distinguished guests were, Gunnar Thoresen, Managing Director of Jotun Thailand Limited, Ole Petter Oksne, Director of Carrier Relations at Telenor Asia (ROH) Ltd., Jon Anders Aas-Haug, CEO and Owner of WebOn Group A/S and many more.

It was a fun evening for members and friends to wish each other a happy summer holiday.

12 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Speed Networking for Young Professionals

I

t was an evening for speed talkers as the Nordic Young Professionals threw a speed networking event on Friday 11 May, which has never been organized in Bangkok before.

The event held at Water Library in Thong Lor which has a prestigious setting and an elegant atmosphere drew around 60 individuals and a couple of pairs for a night of speed networking. Seated at either side of what should have been a single long table, instead the guests were placed on small sofas that you could sit opposite each other. Each person moved one seat right every second minutes thus meeting every other person they passed.

The evening was excellent. Some attendees hit it off on the first meeting.

However, everybody did go away with at least one and in most cases several new contacts.

After speed talking there were also some interesting prizes to win at the lucky draw, among others a weekend stay at Rembrandt Hotel, a box of Carlsberg and plenty of bottles of liquor.

The evening ended with an open networking session where all participants got a chance to broaden their understanding and gain additional insights of their peers.

Mess Boy in Charge I got off the ship in Hong Kong and I went straight to the American embassy. I had heard about a job that I really wanted, and the same day I got it.

When Lundbak celebrated his 60 year birthday, friends brought him a copper diving bell. Today it can be seen in the Admiral’s Pub in Mermaid Hotel.

The man behind the newly opened Mermaid Hotel in Bangkok is 67 year old Jorgen Lundbaek, and although he is very successful in the hospitality industry, the story of the Dane, who left his home country at the age of 15, revolves mostly around ships.

By Dennis Krog

J

orgen Lundbaek left Denmark 52 years ago in 1960. ”It was on 23 July 1960.

That is the exact date. I am sure of that because I just had a look in my sailor book yesterday,” says Jorgen Lundbaek.

We are sitting in the Admiral’s Pub & Restaurant on the ground floor of the recently opened Mermaid Hotel, asking Jorgen Lundbaek to take us on a trip down memory lane, starting at the age of 15, where he left Denmark to work at the very bottom of the shipping industry, as a mess boy.

Enjoying sailing in Asia The first ship Jorgen Lundbaek entered as a mess boy was called Lica, and the ship took him from Genoa to New York. In New York the real adventure began as he was to board the ship Robert, which took him to Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, The Philippines and then back to Japan.

“It was a great experience for a kid like me. All in all the trip took three months and I got to see most

14 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

of Asia,” says Jorgen Lundbaek.

Jorgen Lundbaek was right away “hooked” on Asia and he has more or less been here ever since, apart from three months at the School for Sailors in Esbjerg Denmark. After finishing school, Jorgen kept sailing for renowned Danish companies like ØK and Maersk. He had spent five years at sea when he decided to take on a dangerous job during the Vietnam War.

Picking up ammunition from the bottom of rivers When Jorgen Lundbaek in the middle of 1965 signed off in Hong Kong, the plan was to make money.

“I got off the ship in Hong Kong and I went straight to the American embassy. I had heard about a job that I really wanted, and the same day I got it,” says Jorgen Lundbaek.

The job was not without danger as Jorgen and his colleagues had to deliver ammunition, food and everything else needed for the American troops during the Vietnam War. They lived and worked on small barges and the work also included

picking up ammunition from the bottom of the rivers, they sailed on.

“Well the job paid 3.000 dollars a month, which was three times as much as I made on the ships,” Jorgen Lundbaek explains when asked why a person would do such a job voluntarily.

Little over a year later it was time for a small break for Jorgen Lundbaek, who planned on spending a month in Bangkok, but that plan quickly changed.

Making it in the world of business In Thailand Jorgen Lundbaek – instead of enjoying his holiday – took different jobs, working in the jungle and overseeing cargo in two ports, where he had great fun driving back and forth on his Vespa, but working for other people ended at the end of the 1960’s as he met the Brit called Captain Bent.

Together with Captain Bent, Jorgen founded the company Marine Surveys (Thailand) Limited. The company in many ways worked as a middleman between the owner of

of Mermaid Hotel

a ship and the company renting the ship, making sure everything worked to satisfaction for both parties. Jorgen Lundbaek had his working life at Marine Surveys for ten years, before starting up a new business.

“During the work with Marine Surveys we noticed that there wasn’t anybody checking the security equipment on board the ships, so 25 years ago I started up Mermaid Marine Services together with another Dane,” says Jorgen Lundbaek.

The businesses Jorgen entered went really well, and a lot more where opened, with the most successful one being Mermaid Maritime Services, which at a time employed more than 1.000 people.

The success has been huge for Jorgen Lundbaek, who has made himself a lot of money, but even though he is sitting at a bar in one of his own hotels, money is not a topic, he likes to talk about.

“I have been doing ok,” he says when asked if the businesses have made him rich.

“But I cannot see how it can be interesting how much money I got,”

he continues, closing the subject.

Another topic, not on the lips of the Dane, is retiring. All though he is traveling a bit less nowadays Jorgen Lundbaek is keeping himself busy with his new Mermaid Hotel.

The Dream of Mermaid Hotel As Jorgen enjoyed his success in the shipping business he added a bar to his portfolio, taking over the Sportsman Lounge, situated close to the Oriental hotel.

“At that time it was actually just to have a little bit of fun, but it ended up being an ok. business,” says Jorgen Lundbaek.

Since then a handful of bars, restaurants and hotels in Bangkok and Pattaya have had the Jorgen Lundbaek name on the contract, with the latest establishment being the Mermaid Hotel.

“I have seen many hotels in my lifetime, and I am proud to say, that our rooms definitely have 5-star potential,” says Jorgen, while showing of one of the corner rooms of the hotel.

The Mermaid Hotel, which was

inaugurated by none or the less than H.R.H. Prince Henrik has 69 rooms divided into ten floors. The top floor is to be rented out as condominiums, and on the rooftop a special plan is evolving.

“It’s going to be perfect up here.

We are going to be able to host board meetings, small and big receptions, nice cocktail parties – you name it,” says Jorgen, while showing around on the roof, where workers are to have a busy work schedule for a month or two to come.

After the tour around the nice pool area and the restaurant and bar, the tour continues down to the wine cellar.

“It has to be one of the best wine cellars in Bangkok,” says Jorgen, while showing of the cave-like surroundings, which is also the venue for a question – a normal one to ask a 67 year old – pops up.

When are you going to retire and just enjoy all this?

“Retire! I wouldn’t know what to do all day.”

Above: Prince Henrik of Denmark at the opening of Mermaid Hotel.

Right: Jorgen with his wife Tip and their two children.

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 15

Danish Mentor for Small Business Start-ups Robert Kronberg is a senior advisor for many newcomers to the country with a personal experience of most of their problems.

By Miklos Bolza

D

anish companies in Thailand are often formed, not so much on a business idea, but for more personal reasons, says Robert Kronberg, a senior advisor for many newcomers to the country.

“Quite often, people want to establish something in Thailand because they have found a Thai partner,” he says, adding that starting a business is viewed as one of the better ways to remain here for the long-term.

Later on, however, the company may take root and start flourishing if the business idea is sound and the owner manages to survive for the first couple of years.

Another typical reason for establishing a company in Thailand is to reduce taxes for the mother company back in Denmark.

“The tax regulations in Thailand are generally simpler. For instance, if you have a company car in Denmark, you have to pay tax. If you

have a company mobile phone, you have to pay tax. Whatever the company buys for you, you have to pay tax. The rules in Thailand are less strict on these and many other points.”

Spiritual Beginnings Mr. Kronberg’s own road to Thailand was not much different from some of the clients he has helped throughout his career. Originally studying a degree in theology, he later moved to Thailand because of his Thai wife.

From the beginning, he always wanted to be a consultant as his religious studies gave him a unique perspective on Thailand.

“Religion is a kind of culture or culture is a kind of religion. Whether you study Buddhism in Thailand or the culture here, it’s the same.”

A Bridge to Thailand His first job in Thailand was as Managing Director for C&C Travel SE Asia, which was just establish-

16 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

ing itself in the country. He had to start completely from scratch when forming the company, creating the work permits and licences, and communicating with lawyers and auditors on his own.

With a great deal of personal experience under his belt, Mr. Kronberg then created the PIRO Consulting Group as the Managing Director in 2005. Since then, the company has helped “foreigners, especially Scandinavians, enter Thailand in any way.” This includes individuals who plan to establish a small business here as well as Danish companies that wish to open up a Thailand-based organisation.

PIRO also provides businesses with representation in Thailand so that they can conduct operations here without having to physically establish a company. A first of its kind within the region, these Representative Offices help avoid numerous administrative and legal hassles, while ensuring that business operations can proceed normally.

Throughout his career, Mr. Kronberg has gained a solid understanding of everything from Thai revenue law to the culture of the Thai people. The latter is an important part of how PIRO Consulting now operates.

“This is the philosophy behind how we work. If you want to understand a country, you have to understand its culture. You have to go beneath the surface to understand why people act the way they do.”

Most recently, Mr. Kronberg has been elected the Chairman of the Scandinavian Society Siam, an achievement which highlights his continuing role in the Danish-Thai business community.

Careful Planning & Consulting When advising newcomers to Thailand, Mr. Kronberg usually starts by looking into the owner’s specific business ideas. The money involved – how much will be invested, how much can be earned and the initial

administrative costs – can determine which methods are most suitable.

Since there are numerous options available, from Thai companies to BOI supported companies, talking to someone who has experience in these areas is recommended.

Company Types and Restrictions Ownership is the most important matter when it comes to establishing a business here. In most cases, at least 51% of the shareholders have to be Thai. There are exceptions however, such as BOI and export companies, where the business can be 100% foreign-owned.

These cases come with restrictions though. A BOI company cannot expand into other areas if the owner wishes to do so in the future.

It is stuck ‘in a box’ when it comes to its future plans. As for export companies, these are forbidden to sell goods within Thailand, drastically limiting the market.

“If you are a Thai company, you

have the same rights as a Thai person,” Mr. Kronberg says, making this option much more flexible.

Staffing Complications in Thailand One of the most difficult issues for Danes when setting up a business in Thailand is the different culture.

“For many companies, the first hurdle is to get staff,” Mr. Kronberg states.

This is especially true if the business start-up is new, as many Thais will prefer to work for a well-known organisation, even if they receive a lower salary. This allows them to gain face in front of their friends and family.

Thais are also a social people and prefer to work in groups. Finding someone to work individually can be very difficult, since locals are more likely to seek an office with a solid community feel.

If asked to procure a certain product, a member of staff will usually look to their friend’s business

even if the quality is poorer or the price is higher. This may involve “secret commission” or it can be done merely to strengthen the bonds of friendship.

Selling & Sourcing Products “Most people realise it’s very difficult to sell here,” Mr. Kronberg says, bringing up another issue.

Those seeking leads for their company may find themselves talking to an assistant rather than to those with the power to make decisions. This typically results in an inefficient selling process where only the bare details are passed on.

Connections are also highly valued in Thailand and, while this can often assist a company’s progress, it can sometimes be detrimental.

“If you think you can deliver something that’s better than the company’s present supplier, it may be difficult if an employee has a good friendship with someone in that organisation.”

Administrative & Legal Hurdles Thais, even educated ones, are generally very good at following orders but will seldom question them.

“Lawyers and auditors in Thailand, especially the cheaper ones, do not act like in the West. If you say, ‘I want to have this,’ then they’ll give you that, but they don’t say that you will have a problem with Step B. They just give you what you ask for.”

This means that new business owners will have to be doubly prepared and think ahead for themselves.

Mr. Kronberg adds that it normally takes two or three years to learn how to run a company in Thailand. Until then, getting in touch with someone who knows what they are doing can definitely help out. Whether this is as a consultant or a representative, the new company can then gain the very best foundations from which to expand and grow.

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 17

Precious Gulf of Thailand Gulf of Thailand, also called ‘Gulf of Siam’ has been a popular tourist destination for years due to the tropical all year round nice weather, its beautiful islands, and magnificent coral reefs. The warm, clear water of the gulf makes it a paradise for both scuba divers and skin divers. From the action of the full moon parties to the high society chill hang-outs, visitors will always have something new to discover - even a trip to their inner soul.

18 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Koh Samui

Koh Samui of Surat Thani province is Thailand’s third largest island after Phuket and Koh Chang. The island is famous for its white beaches, plentiful coral reefs and lately as the luxurious alternative for tourists to get away from the bustling beaches and crowds in Phuket.

By Vatcharin Tavornwong Photos Paopang-nga Sutin

I

n 2011, New York Times website, listed the 41 world top tourist destinations of the year. Koh Samui was ranked the third. New York Times described that the coastlines of Koh Samui still retained its charm and beauty which is so attractive for international tourists. In the same time, the island is complete with full facilities and well-known accommodations. Even the local restaurants mostly hire international chefs to cater food for tourists. What contributes to Koh Samui’s fame and memorability is seafood, barbeque and sunset.

For local residents, a key to Koh Samui’s popularity is also the easy access by air, train and boat.

Koh Samui features many beaches which tourists can choose according to what best suits their preferences. One of the best known beaches is Chaweng Beach. This beach has stunningly clear, crystal water, white sand, and nice accommodations.

Tourists will enjoy various sports activities or shopping streets along with the ocean in the night time.

Another good beach is Taling Ngam Beach which is so wellknown as a scenic place to take memorable sunset pictures. Due to the beachfront snugged Koh Si and Koh Ha, when the sun is set, it will sink down to the ocean between

these two islands which create a stunning sunset picture, therefore in late afternoon, this beach will be so crowded. During the day, boats to Koh Si and Koh Ha are available for tourists who like to go snorkeling, scuba diving or even fishing.

There are many other great

beaches, such as: Lamai Beach, which isn’t normally as crowded as Chaweng Beach, and better suited for travelers on lower budgets, Lepa Noi Beach, Ban Bang Kam Beach, Bang Por Beach (one of well-known spots to observe memorable sunset scene), Mae Nam Beach, and Bo

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 19

Phut Beach (another interesting scenic point, from which you can see Koh Phangan lying on the horizon).

Between January and May is a good time to visit Koh Samui when there is no stormy weather during this period, while the best period is between February and April with the generally least rain on Koh Samui.

Getting around the island, tourists can rent bicycles for a cheap price, while motorbike rental is cheap for 100cc engine, but not for the big bikes such as Harley Davidson. ‘Songthaew’; a local pickup truck bus from dusk to late afternoon (before 6 p.m.) is a easy way to get around Koh Samui at reasonable fair rates. But ‘Songthaew’ taxi from midnight to dusk can sometimes be quite expensive so tourists should negotiate before the service.

Tourists can also rent Jeeps or ordinary cars from 1,000 baht and up per day.

How to Get There • Flight – Direct flights from Suvarnabhumi Airport to Koh Samui is available with Bangkok Airways or Thai Airways.

• Bus – Tourists can take a bus from Khaosan Road which usually includes the ferry to Koh Samui.

• Car – Drive down Petchkasem Road, Thai Route 4 to Surat Thani province and head to Donsuk or Samui ferry pier. For those who wish to bring cars to Koh Samui, the car ferry service is available from 6.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. at both piers.

• Train – Take the train at Hua Lumphong Train Station at night to Surat Thani province, and take bus or Songthaew bus to Donsuk pier for the cruise to Koh Samui.

20 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Koh Tao Koh Tao - litterally the turtle island - has its name from the shape of island similar to a turtle.

By Vatcharin Tavornwong (Earth)

T

his small island features fertile nature and an abundance of under water world life. The beautiful coral reefs in both shallow and deep waters and the diversity of colorful fish species around the island is a spectaular sight - as well as the many magnificent white sandy beaches. For all these reasons, Koh Tao has become famous among divers and scuba diving schools have mushroomed up all over the island.

If you want to learn how to scuba dive, Koh Tao is definitely the number one on the list.

The best time to visit Koh Tao is between July and August when the seawater gets the most crystal

clear because the warm water current flows into the Gulf of Thailand which purifies the seawater and carries in multiple species of fishes such as whales, whale sharks or so called ‘Whale Bruda’ by divers.

These magnificent animals will reveal themselves over the seawater and devour bunches of planktons that are so plenty during this time period. Lucky tourists may observe them surfacing which is considered a special incident for all scuba divers.

Attractive beaches on Koh Tao includes Sairee Beach; the longest beach in Koh Tao with white sand and coral reefs along the coastline,

22 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Sai Daeng Beach; a small islet featuring plentiful coral reefs and colorful fishes and considered a good spot for scuba diving. Other beaches are short and have rocks and stand next to hills but most beaches have view points as well such as Laem Thian Beach, Tanote Bay, Leuk Bay (a popular spot for scuba diving), etc.

Accommodations are mostly simiular to the avaerage on Koh Phangan. Most of them are bungalow style which definitely suits the travelers with lower budget. Only Haad Tien Beach Resort is a pleasant exception. Getting around the island, motorbike or bicycle rental is the ideal means of transportation.

How to Get There Regular Boat • Koh Tao – Koh Phangan departing one trip a day from Koh Tao at 2.30 p.m. and departing from Koh Phangan at 12.00 p.m.

Speed Boat • Koh Phangan – Koh Tao, departing from Koh Phangan (Tong Sala pier).

• Chumporn – Koh Tao, departing from Chumporn at 7.30 a.m. and arrive at Koh Tao at 9.30 a.m.

• Koh Samui – Koh Tao, departing from Koh Samui at 8.30 a.m. and 12.00 p.m. and arrive at Koh Tao at 10.00 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. respectively.

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 23

Discover The Haad Tien Beach Resort An Exclusive Retreat on Koh Tao, A Small Unspoilt Island in The Gulf of Thailand

H

aadtien beach was for years a private estate where the owners went to escape and unwind from the hustle and bustle of everyday life in Bangkok. Now this exclusive property is open and can be enjoyed by travellers with a spirit for adventure.

The Haad Tien Beach Resort is a unique boutique resort nestled amongst the palm groves in the southern tip of Koh Tao with its own approximately 350 meter secluded beach. The development has taken place organically with variety of private villas and rooms, both beachfronts and seaviews, set amongst 45 acres of land that encompass the resort. The villas have been designed to provide guests with clean, comfortable and spacious accommodation without sacrificing the natural environment which makes the resort so unique.

The resort is totally private as it is situated in its own natural bay, with granite cliffs on both sides and jungle behind, yet the resort is only a kilometre from the nearest village with local shops and restaurants.

The beach itself opens out onto a crystal blue shallow lagoon which is perfect for swimming and snorkelling, and at night all that can be heard is the lapping of the waves and the whistling of the breeze.

HOW TO GET THERE Fly to Samui: Bangkok Airways or Thai Airways (1 hour flight) - Lomprayah/Seatran Ferry (approx. 2 hours journey time) Departure ferry time (Samui - Koh Tao): 8:00 hrs. and 12:30 hrs.

Departure ferry time (Koh Tao - Samui): 9:30 hrs. and 15:30 hrs.

Fly to Chumporn: Solar Air (1.15 hours flight) - Lomprayah Ferry (approx. 1.30 hours journey time) Train to Chumporn: Train at Hualamphong train station (approx. 8 hours ride) - Lomprayah Ferry (approx. 1.30 hours journey time) Bus to Chumporn: Bus at Khao San Road (approx. 8 hours ride) - Lomprayah Ferry (approx. 1.30 hours journey time) Departure ferry time (Chumporn - Koh Tao): 7:00 hrs. and 13:00 hrs.

Departure ferry time (Koh Tao - Chumporn): 10:15 hrs. and 14:45 hrs.

24 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

the haad tien BEACH RESORT, KOH TAO

Escape to a palm-fringed white coral beach with turquoise clear waters and bountiful marine life just steps from your private villa. Dedicated to the art of relaxation, let The Haad Tien Beach Resort take you to another world.

Bangkok office: 889 Thai CC Tower, 27th Floor, South Sathorn Road, Yannawa, Bangkok 10120 Tel: +66 2675 9371-4, Fax: +66 2672 3835 Resort office: 19/9 Moo 3, Haadtien (Shark Bay), Koh Tao, Suratthani 84360 Tel: +66 7745 6580, Fax: + 66 7745 6827 Email: reservations@haadtien.com l www.haadtien.com l www.facebook.com/haadtienbeachresort

Koh Phangan

Koh Phangan, with its beautiful moon, clear water and white sand beaches remains a precious treasure of natural beauty. Rare-find coral reefs make it the diamond of the Gulf of Thailand to people abroad as well as its kindhearted residents.

By Vatcharin Tavornwong (Earth)

26 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

A

bout half an hour cruising up North from Koh Samui, tourist will reach Koh Phangan where development has taken over much of the island. Koh Phangan is now full of tourists; many times it seems like a party island, primarily because of the large gathering for the full moon party.

Most of the beaches here are suitable for swimming and skin diving. The best know beaches include Yao Beach

with white semicircle sandy beach a kilometer in length. The shallow water is fabulously populated with shallow corals, sea anemones, and many fish of multiple species. While Rin Beach is the most popular beaches where the famous full moon party is taking place.

Thousands of tourists regularly gather here on the full moon night, more or less depending on the time period of year. The beach will be so crowded with visitors who enjoy drinking and

Than Sadet Waterfall dancing through the night while some exciting performances will also be featured such as fire show, acrobatics and many more, to entertain the visitors. To make sure not to miss the fun and wonderful night when visiting Koh Phangan, contact general tour agents on Koh Phangan or nearby islands (full moon party will be called off on important Buddhist holidays and election days).

Other, more quiet beaches include Seeguntung Beach (peaceful beach suitable for swimming and between December and January, seawater will be so clear and beautiful), Tien Beach, Salad Beach, Si Thanu Beach (suitable for swimming and one of the best spots to observe the sunset scene in Koh Phangan), Son Beach, among others.

Getting around the island, there are three options for transportation.

What seems to be the most popular for foreigners is motorbike rental but for safety, ‘Songthaew’, is also a good choice since this option is available 24 hours and not so expensive. The last choice is long-tail boat which tourists can charter for the whole trip for more privacy. Accommodations on the island are inexpensive and rates start from 300 baht which tourists can choose to suite their preferences from small bungalows up to high end resorts.

How to Get There Surat Thani – Koh Phangan • Ferry Boat by Racha Ferry Co., Ltd. departing from Donsuk pier to Koh Phangan at 10.00 a.m., 2.00 a.m. and 6.00 a.m. and arrive at Koh Phangan at 12.30 p.m., 4.30 p.m. and 8.30 p.m. respectively.

• Speed Boat by Songserm Rungrueang Co., Ltd. departing one trip a day from Surat Thani at 8.00 a.m., the cruise to Koh Phangan takes only one hour.

• Sleeping Boat, contact at Baan Don pier departing at 11.00 p.m. and arrive at Koh Phangan 6.00 a.m.

A

bout halfway up the road from Ban Tai Village to Thong Nai Pan Beach, there’s a turn-off heading east toward Sadet Beach at Thong Nang Village. This trail follows a river along which you’ll see a series of waterfalls collectively known as Than Sadet Waterfall.

Than Sadet, or ‘Royal Stream’; is a historical site due to frequent visits by many Kings of Thailand in Chakri Dynasty, including the present King Bhumipol, Rama IX. King Chulalongkorn was the first monarch to visit the deep south. His journeys were made possible by the purchase of a steamship, which brought the remote islands in the Gulf of Thailand within easy reach. Wonderful black and white pictures show King Chulalongkorn and the royal entourage of about 30 exploring the Than Sadet stream, one photo catching the king at rest under a torrent of tumbling white water near the mouth of Than Sadet.

King Chulalongkorn was so enamored of the pretty valley’s teeming vegetation and cool green rock pools that he visited it 10 times between 1888 and 1909. King Rama VII visited in 1926 and 1930, and His Majesty the present King in 1962. All three left large inscriptions on giant stones near the river bed.

Nowadays, a hundred years passed by, Than Sadet still have her charm to explore. Many bungalows lie along the white-sand beach at the mouth of the stream, greeting anybody who enjoy living with nature.

Another similarly most respected and most beautiful waterfall on Koh Phangan is the Wang Sai Waterfall. At the bottom of the waterfall are several pools in the shape of a lotus. The waterfall is located near Tong Nai Pan beach.

Koh Samui – Koh Phangan • Speed Boat by Songserm Rungrueang Co., Ltd. departing from Nar Ton pier three trips a day at 9.00 a.m., 11.00 a.m. and 4.00 p.m.

• Lomprayah high Speed ferries cruise from Chumporn – Koh Tao – Koh Phangan – Koh Samui one trip a day.

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 27

Meditation Retreat at Wat Kow Tahm Meditation 24 hours a day. Including walking mediation.

Throughout the retreat students are not allowed to talk, read, write, send body signals or communicate in any other way.

No cell phones allowed.

Many people come to Koh Phangan to join the famous full moon party. But each year, more and more people also come here to learn mediation, to find the truth of their lives, be healthy, live with nature.

By Gregers Moller

W

at Kow Tham is a Buddhist temple on top of the hill at Ban Tai Village on Koh Phangan. Every day visitors find their way up the mountain to the temple mentioned in most guide books to Koh Phangan. They burst in from the outside world for a quick visit on their way to the next sightseeing point.

And there they stand. Human statues. Live scupltures. They don’t twist a muscle. Only the sweat trickling down their cheeks and necks reveal that they are alive.

After a while - a long while - they loosen up and walk slowly away.

Watching them like in a trance you suddenly feel that bottled up and corked up spirituality that you have kept locked up for years slip out of its dark confinement and start tugging at your sleeve. “Why is this not you?” the voice within starts begging.

Steve, Rosemary and Mae Chee Ahmon Steve and Rosemarry Weissman started teaching Buddhism and 28 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

meditation to people of all ages from all over the world at Wat Kow Tahm in 1988. Since then, the 10 day retreats and other courses they have arranged several times per year have made the temple one of the most famous meditation centres in Thailand.

The road to this calling was long and winding.

Steve, an old 49’er, and Rosemary, his three years younger partner, had been practicing meditation since 1972. They had studied with many of the leading Buddhist meditation teachers of Thailand, Burma, Sri Lanka, India, Australia, England and the United States. In Thailand they had been greatly influenced by one particular teacher who stressed the importance of having compassion, not only for others, but also for ourselves.

Upon returning to Australia, they tried to integrate their practice into their everyday life. Eventually they decided to devote their life more fully to the Buddha’s teaching and went to practice at monasteries all over the world.

In late 1987, they arrived at Wat Kow Tahm for the first time, intending only to do three weeks of personal practice there. They had with them a letter of introduction from a prominent abbot of another monastery to the resident nun at the temple Mae Chee Ahmon. Recognizing their practice level, Mae Chee Ahmon asked Steve and Rosemary if they could help teach meditation to the many foreigners visiting the temple and eventually they began teaching their regular 10-day retreats in 1988.

Mae Chee Ahmon, today 87 years old, remains the guiding force of Wat Kow Tahm and the overseer of the International Meditation Center. This is rare in Thailand.

Thailand’s male dominated Buddhist monkhood has never wholeheartedly supported her efforts and often blamed her for developing something so unconventional as this retreat for foreigners.

Despite the challenges, the three together with a handful of dedicated nuns and Western volunteers have created this meditation sanctuary

The Colors Of Life

Phangan Bayshore Resort and Spa Haad Rin Beach Phangan Bayshore Resort and Spa is directly on Haad Rin Nok, at the heart of the action most suitable for the Full Moon Party

and to enjoy the exotic nightlife available at Haad Rin.

141 Moo 6, Haad Rin, Bantai, Koh Phangan , Suratthani Thailand Tel: 66 77 375224, 375227 Fax : 66 77 375226

Email : info@phanganbayshore.com

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 29

The Daily Schedule Goes Like This:

where more than 7,000 people from over 75 countries have by now completed retreats and learned about the Buddha’s teaching.

The teaching The retreats at Wat Kow Tahm teach various meditation techniques from Theravadin Buddhism. Practicing the meditation techniques will help develop Vipassana or Insight into Reality and Wisdom.

Rosemary and Steve believe that the path of meditation and mental development of each individual must be treated as a whole.

They explain that if people focus only on a few limited techniques taken out of the context of the whole “way of living” described within Theravadin Buddhism, it will often result in these people not being able to nurture themselves in the multifaceted nature of their experiences with the world and their relationships with others..

They teach meditation to people from all walks of life suitable not only for those devoting their life fulltime to the inner journey but also for people actively involved in the everyday world with home, relationships, and work responsibilities.

A cornerstone remains developing the insight into our own nature and the laws of Nature; developing that deep Compassion and Understanding of the origins of difficulties and stress, that so fascinated them when first they were taught about this back in the late 1970’s here in Thailand.

“Compassionate Understanding may enable us to deal more successfully with all of life’s situations, whether pleasant or unpleasant, helping us to react to the arising and passing of experience within ourselves and the world in a more balanced way,” they explain.

Various Buddhist meditation techniques of Mind Development are blended into a basic practice in order to give the meditator many different ways of developing beneficial mind qualities such as Compassion, Patience, Lovingkindness, Acceptance, Equanimity, Joy, etc.

30 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

At the same time these help to lessen attachment to unbeneficial qualities such as anger, hatred, greed, worry, frustration, self-pity, envy, etc.

The 10 day retreat The 10 day retreat is hard work and requires a certain amount of commitment by the participant. The days start with cold showers before sunrise and doesn’t end before after 8 pm.

Smoking is not allowed. No illegal drugs or alcohol. Tai chi, any martial arts, dance routines, etc. are not allowed.

04.00am The Morning Bell Time for a wash 04.45am Sitting Meditation 05.30am Yoga 06.30am Sitting Meditation 07.00am Breakfast 08.15am Working Meditation 09.00am Walking Meditation 09.25am Teachers Talk 09.45am Sitting Meditation 10.30am Walking Mediation 11.00am Lunch . .

01.00pm Walking Meditation 01.45pm Standing Meditation 02.45pm Walking Meditation 03.45pm Sitting Meditation with 15 minutes of standing at the end 04.30pm Walking Meditation 05.15pm Tea (Working Meditation) 06.15pm Sitting Meditation 06.45pm Standing or Walking Meditation 07.15pm Teachers Talk 08.25pm Sleeeeeeep................. . . . . .

04.00am Morning Bell Arrrrrrrghhhhhhhh!!!!

Every morning, every afternoon, every evening...........

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 31

Throughout the retreat you must remain silent in all forms of communication except with the teachers or in emergencies. No talking, reading, writing or body sign language with others. Usage of cell phones is not allowed.

“Silence can aid greatly in the development of Awareness, Concentration, Insight and Understanding. Our energies are thus directed inward rather than outward,” the students are taught.

Much time will be spent in practicing sitting, walking, and standing meditation technique.

Activity throughout the day such as eating, bathing, chores, etc., will also be used to increase moment to moment awareness and help the meditator develop the capacity to be more present and aware in more normal activities.

This is very important in helping the student to integrate the formal practice into everyday actions.

The first tough days For many students the first few days can be especially hard to cope with when they are not yet accustomed to the almost nauseating heat under the long sleeved garments and the overwhelming presence of nature around them, including lizards, giant spiders, squirrels.

Meditation practice is in itself

excruciatingly hard. There is so much chattering inside our minds that goes off on tangents whenever we are off guard that frustration is bound to set in only few days into the 10 day retreat.

This is where talks given by the teachers help tremendously. Listening to them sharing their experience with the challenges of finding happiness in the West despite the tremendous wealth it possesses is mind-blowing. Being explained how compassionate understanding and loving-kindness for yourself and others can be the foundation of your happiness as well as mindfulness and non-attachment.

The number of students is limited in order to keep the personal connection between teacher and studentOften a single sentence in a private interview can completely change the student’s perception and their direction of their practice, helping to address personal needs at different stages of the journey.

It can be as simple as explaining why non-attachment does NOT mean not caring.

The Wat opens for “live-in” retreatants 3 days prior to each retreat and stays open for 3 days after each retreat for those finishing the retreat.

The Wat is always open for daytime visitors. The minimum age for participating in a retreat is 20 years.

32 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Coming Retreats: June 13-22: July 8-17: July 17-26: July 8-26: August 17-26:

Regular 10 days retreat Regular 10 days retreat Special Old Students’ Retreat Special 19-day Old Students’ Retreat Regular 10 days retreat

Winter season 2012 December 13-22: Regular 10 days retreat January 13-22: Special Old & New Students’ Retreat February 13-22: Regular 10 days retreat March 13-22: Regular 10 days retreat Summer Season 2013 June 13-22: Regular 10 days retreat July 13-22: Regular 10 days retreat August 17-26: Regular 10 days retreat

Located on the hilltop of Khao Kao Haeng, Mu 1, Bang Tai Sub-district, the monastery is ideal for meditation amidst the unspoiled nature.

Wat Kow Tahm PO Box 18 Koh Phangan Surat Thani 84280 Thailand

Herbal Steam Bath at Wat Pho

A

herbal steam bath at Wat Pho temple is a nice and inexpensive treat when on vacation on Koh Phangan.

The Wat Pho temple is located in Baan Tai village where you can go by local Sawng Taew pickup truck. It is a 10 minute drive from Thong Sala pier.

The steam rooms - there is one for ladies and one for men - are situated at the back of the temple atop a flight of concrete steps where an antique looking metal boiler containing a mixture of water and herbs produces the luxuriant steam.

You can rent a sarong on the

34 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

spot and there is a locker for your clothes after you have changed in the toilet.

The combination of Thai herbs, such as lemongrass, jasmine and turmeric, are said to be healthy for the skin and to purge the body of toxins.

The rooms are small with low ceilings and the steam enters through piping protruding from the walls. The experience is simply unlike any Western spa experience.

The steam is intoxicatingly fragrant and soon the sweat is pouring freely down the body. The whole environment is rustic, foreign and

very much like… well, like being on a movie set.

You can bring your own herbs and/or creams and/or oils like turmeric, baby oil, and cocoa butter to rub into your body while you are in there, although the herbs used to make the steam are nice just on their own.

You can sit in silence, or strike up a conversation with a nice Thai guest or other traveller.

You probably don’t want to stay in for more than 10 minutes at a time. Stepping out from the steam, to what now feels like a cool breeze on a hot day, is a welcome relief.

You then took turns ladling cool water from earthen urns onto your sweat drenched bodies.

After just enjoying the surroundings a little it is time to do it all over again… and again until you are ready to retire to the garden for a cool drink (or a hot herbal tea).

There is also the option of a Thai massage afterward.

The sauna is open from 2-7 pm daily, seven days a week. There is a nominal charge and any donations – don’t be stingy - will help the monks keep the sauna operating for all to enjoy.

June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 35

Exodus In 1907, the Danish Captain of The Royal Siamese Gendarmerie Erik Seidenfaden was in charge of a huge convoy moving the Thai Governor-general out of the now French Cambodia.

By Flemming Winther Nielsen

T

he year is 1907. France is forcing Siam to give up the annexed areas of Battambang, Srisophon and Siemrep in Cambodia, populated by Kmers. The Siamese Governor-general or ViceRoy, Phraya Chum Apaiwong Katthathorn (1861 – 1922) must leave, but can do so with all his wealth and belongings.

For that purpose 1.700, one thousand seven hundred, ox carts are needed. 1.350 of these was forcedly prescribed among the farmers in Prachinburi, Siam – the final destination, where the big man

is to settle, more than 300 kilometers West of Battambang.

The orders were clear. They came directly from the Commander of The Royal Siamese Gendarmerie Phraya Vasuthep – among Danes better known as Colonel Gustav Schau: ‘With a detachment of 100 gendarmes you will escort and secure the safe relocation to Prachinburi of Governor-general Phraya Katthathorn and what is his’.

The total trek was divided into nine convoys and then Captain Erik Seidenfaden of the gendarmerie and his men shepherded them all, three month it took altogether.

36 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Rain without end They started out in late April, the most difficult and also stupid time of the year for such an enterprise. The Siamese were pushed to leave but the French offered that the Governor-general could use their boats, sail the Cambodian waterways and reach Siam. He declined, preferred the route overland, rainy season or not. – And it rained and rained for the whole period of the 1.700 ox cart strong, 300 kilometers long, trek.

From the border towns Poipet on the Cambodian site and Aranyaphratet on the Thai side, the land to the West towards Kabinburi, Prachinburi and Nakhon Nayok is mostly flat scrubland; today big eucalyptus plantations are growing up here. But from mid April each and every year the area gets a lot of water also from the Khao Yai Mountain range to the North.

To get an idea of the ordeal, we drove to the Cambodian border by Aranyaphratet and back to Prachinburi on Highway 33 (Asian Highway No. 1). On this stretch – which is roughly only half of the full distance - we passed on bridges over 22 creeks, streams and rivers. Only very few of those bridges were there in those days.

In Seidenfaden’s days, in the days of the big trek, there were hardly any bridges. The men were in the saddle 15-17 hours a day and got soaking wet, suffering from insect bites of all sorts, not getting sufficient food, and getting plastered in mud; but Erik Seidenfaden nevertheless notes that the Australian racing horses belonging to the

Governor-general also suffered a lot in the mud, on the unstable paths and from the stable flies.

Cholera and beriberi broke out among the farmers and gendarmes.

It was a miserable and hard endeavor, they were all very near wits end. They made corrals of the carts at night for security but couldn’t get dry. The water penetrated everything, day after day, week after week.

As can be seen on the photos we took from our reconstruction of the trek, the streams and rivers up here have no fords, they are cut deep in the heavy soil and therefore with high and steep brinks. So, all the ox carts were, one by one, lowered in ropes to the bottom and towed up in ropes on the other side.

The landscape indicates that the route then must have been the same as now – the shortest. He may gone a bit upstream or downstream but the waters had to be passed since the streams basically all run North/South towards River Bangpakong and the sea.

During the last period of the trek, the men had to build bridges over the most difficult streams.

The Cargo The money transported represented a special and delicate problem and Seidenfaden writes at length about this. But before the money matters, I will give a list of the whole ‘export’, transported in and with the convoys; this information is spread over some pages in the written text: • 1.800.000 Silver Piastres and the best tusks, stored in convoy number 2, consisting of 215 ox carts.

• The whole extended and very

1 numerous family, including 44 concubines and 50 children.

• Siamese civil servants.

• An astonishing lot of costly items and belongings.

• An unknown number of Australian racing horses.

• 37 Elephants. 26 of them carrying the big man’s daughters and ‘ballet girls’ in the howdahs.

• Very many ordinary elephant tusks.

• Herd of ordinary horses.

• Herds of cattle, oxen, sheep and goats.

• 3 Axis deer’s.

• A life guard of 40 men, armed with rifles and swords.

The Silver When convoy number 2 finally reached Prachinburi - heavily guarded and protected - Seidenfaden felt the relief. A gang of robbers were said to be in the heels of the convoy. The convoy had transported 1.800.000 Silver Piastres. At that time, the Silver Piastre was linked to the French Franc at a fixed value of 10 Franc for 1 Silver Piastre. In 2012 money this silver treasure equals not less than 200 million Danish Kroner or 1.1 billion Thai Baht.

Using the steamers of the gendarmerie, the money boxes were then all and everyone sailed to a bank in Bangkok. Here the staff worked more days to count all this money.

Mission accomplished Finally, the last convoy reached Kabinburi. From here land transport was impossible because of all the tributaries to the Prachin-

The photos are in geographical sequence from the border to Prachinburi.

1. A cart of baskets - today’s export from Cambodia.

2. Typical river slope near Aranyaprathet.

4. The river widens. Baan Klong Yang.

5. This slope also had to be navigated.

Non Phan Suk. Photos: Claus Gundersen

2 buri River which were flooding the whole area. Luckily 5 steamers belonging to the Gendarmerie plus 40 big barges could take over and sail all the goods and animals of all the convoys the last part of the way.

Meanwhile the detachment of gendarmes was decimated by mostly beriberi, malaria and dysentery. In this last convoy the small and skinny Erik Seidenfaden himself laid in a cart, fewer stricken and with nobody to look after him. A sergeant found him and tried to help. His Danish colleague Captain Johansen, had heard about the situation and came to his rescue. He was brought to the captain’s comfortable houseboat and sailed down to the Bay of Siam as fast as possible. In the air of the sea he recovered.

3

Epilogue The Governor-general was then appointed ordinary Governor over the much smaller Prachinburi Province, where he hopefully could find space enough for his wealth. He was furthermore elevated to Chao Phra-

4 June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 37

The guesthouse built for Rama V. in French rococo with a dash of baroque.

Photo: Claus Gundersen ya with the name Aphaiphubaet [the romanized spelling varies from source to source]. He had a guest house built by the river. In fact a two storey castle in French rococo with a dash of baroque, as can be seen. It was waiting for king Chulalongkorn to visit, but he never came.

Nowadays it contains a very well assorted pharmacy, dealing in all kind of herbs. The Pharmacy and the castle are well worth visiting.

There is so much more to be told about Erik Seidenfaden, (1881 – 1958) who retired as major from The Royal Siamese Gendarmerie in 1920. He later became Member of the Board, Siam Society, then President and finally honorary member.

He wrote much recognized articles within the field of Ethnology and related areas, plus guides to various towns in Siam – but he started as a farm hand on the Manor House ‘Estruplund’ in Jutland. More about all this in a coming article.

Literature Kann Rasmussen, Aage (1986), Koebenhavn: ‘Danske I Siam 1858-1942’.

Seidenfaden, Erik (1999), Herning: ’Det kongelige Siamesiske Provinsgendarmeri og dets danske Officerer’.

Tuck, Patrick (1995), Bangkok: ‘The French Wolf and the Siamese Lamb’.

(Prachinburi, Kabinburi: Google)

Captain Erik Seidenfaden of the gendarmerie and his men shepherded all nine convoys from Battambang to Prachinburi. Three month it took altogether and it nearly cost him his life.

38 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

Excursions with The Siam Society

S

candinavian residents in Thailand with an interest in Thai history, culture, art, nature, wildlife, and flora should consider a membership of The Siam Society of which incidentally Major Erik Seidenfaden was a President and Honorary Member.

The Siam Society arranges many lectures, exhibitions, and study trips both domestically and abroad.

These trips range from one day local excursions, to trips to other countries in the region lasting several days.

Wherever the trips are heading, the emphasis will be on nature, history, culture and religion. Where possible good facilities are used but this isn’t always possible, for example when staying at a forestry station.

Study Trips are often lead by scholars with an in-depth knowledge of the place being visited. The Siam Society has many contacts and sometimes this allows members to visit places not open to the general public.

Chaiyaphum excursion First coming expedition is to visit and explore the Pa Hin Ngam and Sai Thong National Parks in Chaiyaphum province during Saturday, 7 to Sunday, 8 July 2012. Members

B a g s væ r d k o s t s k o l e gymnasium tid til talent

will be staying 1 night at a mountain hut in Chaiyaphum province. This expedition is suitable for members who enjoy spending a holiday in national parks and mountains, and will have opportunity for nature study, photography, and walking in beautiful nature.

Bagsværd kostskole & gymnasium (Bk) er en udviklingsorienteret og traditionsrig skole grundlagt i 1908. elever, der vælger en uddannelse hos os, siger ja til fællesskab, faglighed, seriøsitet og individuel talentudvikling. det vi på Bagsværd kostskole & gymnasium kalder for: tid til talent.

History of Siam Society The Siam Society was founded in 1904 in cooperation with Thai and foreign scholars. The Society soon established a reputation as a learned society and similar societies throughout the world extended their support right from the beginning. These included the Ecole Française d’Extrême-Orient, the Batavian Association of Arts and Sciences, the Royal Asiatic Society and the Societa Asiatica Italiana.

From its inception, the Siam Society’s objective was to encourage research and information gathering on art, history, culture and natural sciences of Thailand and neighboring countries.

After 18 years, the Society established a location on the first floor of the Falck & Beidek Building and after another 14 year it was able to move into its first own buildings located on the current property on Soi Asoke In 1962, the opening of the Society’s separate library and office building was presided over by HM King Bhumibol, HM Queen Ingrid of Denmark, HM King Frederik IX of Denmark, HM Queen Sirikit and HM Queen Rambai Barni.

At present, The Society has close to 1,800 members, including both Thais and foreigners.

vi tilbyder: • • • • • • •

dansk uddannelse med et internationalt præg grundskole, 10. kl., studentereksamen (stX) danmarks første femårig Biotek-uddannelse 8.kl.-3.g sport- og talentklasse fra 7. kl. mulighed for morgentræning tirsdage og torsdage aktiv brug af it og internet i undervisningen enkeltværelser til kostelever, lektiehjælp hver dag

scan Qr koden og besøg vores hjemmeside www.bagkost.dk aldershvilevej 138 • dk-2880 • Bagsværd • telefon: +45 44980065 • e-mail: bk@bagkost.dk

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In 1962, HM King Bhumibol, HM Queen Ingrid of Denmark, HM King Frederik IX of Denmark, HM Queen Sirikit, and HM Queen Rambai Barni grace the opening of the new library building.

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June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 39

New Head of Phuket International Academy New Head of School will move the school closer to offering full ‘IB’ program

P

huket International Academy Day School (PIADS) has appointed Dennis MacKinnon as the new Head of School effective from August, as part of moves to elevate the prestigious academy to become a full three programme International Baccalaureate (IB) World School.

Dennis MacKinnon takes over from the highly-regarded Robin Klymow who has been Head of School at PIADS for the past two years. Mr Klymow has decided not to renew his contract for family reasons. He wishes his successor every success in taking up the reins “at one of the finest schools I’ve had the privilege to work with”.

Lister W Hannah, Chairman of the PIADS Management Board, distinguished educator and IB expert, and former headmaster of Geelong Grammar School, comments: “While we will be sad to farewell Robin, we are fortunate to be able to announce the appointment of Dennis MacKinnon as Head of School.“ Dennis could not be introduced this term to the parents and students at PIADS, as he is in his final term as head of The Codrington School, the top international school in Barbados, and the school is celebrating its first IB graduating class.

“Robin and Dennis will be working closely over the next few months to ensure a smooth transition. My wife, Davidene, and I will

be available throughout to support this process,” Lister W. Hannah adds.

Strong background Mr MacKinnon, a British citizen, is a highly regarded international school educator. He has a first class honours degree and an MEd from the University of Wales, and extensive teaching and leadership experience which include 20 years heading international schools. For the last 15 years he has been a Head of School in the Caribbean (The Codrington School, International School of Barbados; and St Andrews School, Nassau, The International School of the Bahamas); and earlier, in Sri Lanka and Greece (Overseas Children’s School, Colombo and The Campion School, Athens).

Further leadership roles he has held include being the Elementary School Principal, International School of Lusaka, Zambia, and the Primary School Principal, Frankfurt International School (FIS), Germany.

“Dennis has been very involved with the accreditation of international schools, and has made significant contributions to the development of the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP) and Middle Years Programme (MYP) in North America and the Caribbean, including being a workshop leader, lecturer and consultant,” Mr. Hannah explains.

“Dennis played a key role in the early development of the PYP. He

chaired the Steering Committee which led the adoption of the PYP by the IB Organisation in 1997 and he was also a co-author of the IB Learner Profile. As Primary School Principal in Frankfurt at the time, FIS became one of the first two schools world-wide to implement the PYP. He has led schools successfully through the IB PYP, MYP and Diploma Authorisation and Council of International Schools Accreditation processes. He is very well placed to lead PIADS as it continues to grow, building on Robin’s and the present teaching staff’s contributions.”

Teaching was a family passion for the MacKinnons, added Mr Hannah, observing that Dennis’ wife, Christina, was a Montessoritrained teacher and most recently has served as Director of Admissions at Codrington, while their two children were teachers in China and Australia, respectively.

School in fast progress Mr Klymow said it had been a rewarding experience to work with the school and Thanyapura.

“I have been fortunate to have been part of a forward-thinking school,” he said.

“In a short space of time the school has made good progress with increased student enrolment, more teachers, curriculum development, the start of a transition to an Apple school with the introduction of laptops in Middle School and IPad use

in the Junior School, two new buildings; the Administration Building and the Middle School and High School, along with some substantial field trips for the students and very soon the IB PYP authorization visit in May. “With the additional administrators and staff joining in August 2012 I know the school is in a strong position to provide a world class education for its students.”

For further information please contact: Ms. Nathaphat (Kaye) Asavathanachart Marketing Communications Manager Tel: +66 (0) 76 336 000 Ext 5064 Mobile: +66 (0)80 266 9393 E-mail: nathaphat.a@thanyapura.com www.thanyapura.com

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asara House Panwa is the newest serviced apartment. As the name indicates, it is built in the Cape Panwa area, a great base from which to explore Phuket and surrounding islands. It offers just 4 units for that exclusive long vacation or even for shorter breaks.

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The Beach Natural Resort at Promotions Rooms Rates

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he Beach Natural Resort is a resort on the beautiful island of Koh Kood , often referred to as “Paradise of the East Adaman Sea”. Each guest have their private wooden bungalow in a Bali style theme blended with Thai culture. The graceful environment, with its many kinds of flowers and colorful orchids, fits together in perfect harmony with the quiet and peaceful scenery.

Our private beach is definitely the place of many impressive memories. You can enjoy everything from kayaking in the bay, and sunbathing on the beach, to watching the sun as it sets over the horizon from our personal pier here at The Beach Natural Resort.

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June 2012 • ScandAsia.Thailand 41

Medium

Rhubarb Desert

By Gregers Moller n my mind stewed rhubarb - rabarbergrød - is the essence of an early summer dinner on the terrace. It is also quite easy to make and if there is anything left it tastes great with plain yoghurt the morning after.

I

Evil

INGREDIENTS • 1 pound fresh rhubarb • 4 deciliter water • About 175 sugar • 1½ tablespoons cornstarch or 4 spoons potato flour • Vanilla sugar • Full cream fresh milk

Are you done?

W

hen you have completed the above puzzles, please send your solution by fax to +66 2 943 7169 or scan and email to puzzles@ scandasia.com. We will make a lucky draw among the correct answers. Five lucky winners will receive a ScandAsia polo shirt.

Name:

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Mobile:

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Deadline for submitting your solution is 15 June 2012 42 ScandAsia.Thailand • June 2012

PROCEDURE • Wash and cut the fresh rhubarb into small pieces. Cook in the water until soft and mushy - probably for about half an hour. If you don’t like the texture – I love it – you can put the mixture through a sieve.

Sweeten to taste – it should be distinctly both sweet and sour.

• Blend the cornstarch or the potato flour with a little cold water and stir gently into the pudding. Cook until clear and slightly thickened.

• Served cold or at room temperature with ice cold fresh milk. Or with vanilla ice cream.

I was once a guest in a home in Copenhagen where they served a variation. They made a sauce of whipped cream with an egg yolk folded into it. Then they beat the thickened pudding into the cream mixture and served it at once lukewarm. They also added a dash of cinnamon and sprinkled a few ground nuts over it. That was sophisticated – but the basic version is what I dream of when I miss early summer in Denmark.

Make

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ScandAsia is looking for one or two members of the Nordic community outside Bangkok willing to help spend some time finding customers who would like to advertise their services or products in ScandAsia. Either the printed magazine or the online website.

You do not need to know much about advertisement or sales, but you must have a good idea what kind of services and stuff that other readers would like to find advertised in the magazine or on the web.

ScandAsia offers a high commission, so apart from making ScandAsia better and more interesting for the readers, you can also earn some money on the side.

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