Issue XIII, Spring/Summer 2018 Issue XII, Fall/Winter 2017
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WE ARE SCARLETTE THE FASHION MAGAZINE AT OSU Our mission is to showcase campus individuality and beauty, presenting new ideas and exciting photography both to the Ohio State University campus and to the world. Students are responsible for the entire process and execution of the magazine. This makes Scarlette a unique organization where students can take their learning outside of the classroom. Our goal is to create an environment on campus where the students feel comfortable expressing their individuality through fashion. With each of our biannual issues we aim to inspire our readers and deliver new perspectives on the world of fashion.
Editor-In-Chiefs Jesse Tye Terra Williams
Design Director
Style Director
Samantha Hanna
Sarah Husk
Marketing Director
Photography Director
Ethan Hessler
Jordan Penrose
Design
Photography
Samantha Bonner
Philip Bradshaw
Nataliya Bystrova
Caitlin Henry
Lyndsay Sweet
Style
Writing
Hayden Baer
Lauren Quintero
Michelle Feng
Christopher Tinsley
Christopher Tinsley
Nash Hill
Gabbi Dowdy
Maya Murray
Web Master
Faculty Advisor
Patrick Pastore
Karl Whittington
CONTENTS
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35
09
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Bulk Shoes
Seven Deadly Sins
A Disheveled Approach
How fashion retailers became Coachella’s headliners
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43
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Fashion in Film
Androgyny
Ethereal
Fashion’s Dirty Water
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Dare to Dangle
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BULK
K
SHOES F
ashion is cyclical. Trends come and go, but motifs resurface. When art is created, it doesn’t stagnate; it’s built upon with new details and elements. The fashion of the 90’s and 2000’s influences modern clothing, and defines looks that are popular today. Slim and sleek looks were the latest trend with shoes like the Adidas ultraboost and Yeezy’s. These work in tandem with outfits that incorporate skinny jeans and joggers. However, we are seeing the revival of big, bulky shoes. People will soon move away from minimal to obnoxious. In 2013, fashion icon Raf Simons collaborated with Adidas to make the Ozweego. Taking inspiration from 90’s skate shoes and using a thick sole and outer body, the Ozweego’s kickstarted the relevancy of bulky shoes. There are now three editions of this shoe, all contributing to the legacy of Raf and this new direction of big sneakers. 2017 was the year of bulky. The Yeezy Waverunner and The Balenciaga Triple S were some of the most controversial yet popular releases. The newest Yeezy fits into Kanye’s new style as a dad. His wardrobe focuses more on comfort and a relaxed fit with oversized clothing. The Triple S is quite outlandish, with 3 soles stacked on top of each other. It looks like it was made from worn-out material, curving the “clean” appearance
By Nash Hill
that many sneakerheads adore. This Balenciaga sneaker brought the hype to these kinds of large shoes. The first reactions to these shoes, including mine, were that these were ugly and obnoxious. In a time of minimalism, why were these released? However, as always in fashion, opinions start to change. Maybe it’s brainwashing and overexposure, but these shoes gained popularity. Social media stars and models deemed this the new look. But the problem is that these shoes aren’t easy to style. With a bulky and obnoxious body, how should these shoes be worn? At the beginning of this trend, people tried to blend skinny pants with these shoes, and the shapes clashed heavily. With the nature of them being so big, an overall bulkier look is necessary. Wide, cropped pants can look great with these. Wearing the Triple S’ with skinny jeans messes up the proportions of the outfit. Some designers to look at for inspiration are Rick Owens and Yohji Yamamoto, who often make clothes that drape and hang over the body. Puffy jackets and suit pieces (slacks and blazer) can also look good. Even though these shoes are obnoxious, loud, and much bigger than what’s in the mainstream, they can elevate an outfit to a new tier.
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Deadly seven sins
envy
pride
greed
wrath
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sloth
lust
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gluttony
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FASHION IN FILM By: Christopher Tinsley
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ashion has been a secret ally of the film industry for generations. Some looks become iconic, such as Princess Leia’s slave costume from Star Wars, Marilyn Monroe’s white dress from the Seven Year Stitch or even the Greasers’ outfits from Grease. The style of the character tells the audience how they fit into the world that has been created and who they are as a person. It’s beneficial to establish contrasting aspects such as social ranking. Take the reaping scene in the Hunger Games, which tells the story about children from different districts that are chosen to fight to the death. With no previous knowledge, the audience can grasp crucial information from the clothing alone. The residents of each district, wore simple, dull clothing, indicating they were povertystricken, furthermore the clothing followed the same color pallet hinting at conformity. This is juxtaposed by the outfit of Elfie, a representative of the government, whose outfits were extravagant and abstract, with intense makeup casting her an outsider among the lower class. Fashion is a tool that every great filmmaker uses to enhance their projects. It is a tool that I had the pleasure of while working on set. The amount of thought and detail that goes into the fashion is incredible, and I got to experience that first hand, when I worked on It’s Your Call, a movie produced by the Mad Royal Film Society at The Ohio State University. The film followed the story of Sam, the protagonist of the story, who woke up on a game show, run by a sadistic host. Sam competed in several games to escape. Not only did set design and camera movement play a big role in creating an ominous and threatening tone, but so did the character design. When we picked out the clothing, we had to determine how they would play into the narrative. Whether we should make the character contrast or blend with the scene. After talking with Rachel Leggett, the head of set design, she said, “When we were thinking about costume design, we wanted the 70’s vibe to flow from the set into the host character.” This decision resulted in the host dressed in a tight, mid-thigh orange 70’s style dress that complimented the set’s color pallet. In addition, she wore a plaid blazer that
demonstrated the power she held over the game show. Her attire was more formal than Sam’s, indicating her superiority, whether it be in intelligence or in strength. The audience and Sam knew that any attempt to escape would end in failure. We emphasized this was her world, that control over the story belonged to her. Sam’s clothing was contradictory to the host’s. His clothing was basic, simple light washed jeans and a red t-shirt. Nothing unique about his look, except that it contrasted to the world that had been created, which in turn formed a complicated relationship that filmmakers strive for. It’s Your Call, allowed me to look at the fascinating and complicated role character style played in the creation of movies. It has not only influenced relationships, but in other pictures, has created complicated societies all bound together by clothing. The style worked as a guide for the audience, telling them who these characters are and how they fit into their world.
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Androg The
gyny
Gray Area 21
Dare
e to Dangle Written by Lauren Quintero I have had my ears pierced for as long I can remember. I once spent my pre-teen days exploring the racks of Claire’s in search for the perfect pair of earrings, drawn to butterfly shaped studs. Overtime, I said goodbye to my love of the innocent yet playful designs and found myself gravitating toward small hoop earrings. Although today I thank myself for leaving those bedazzled butterfly accessories in the past, I have learned that there is more to earrings than my prized pre-teen possessions and simple hoops have led me to believe. Like people, earrings come in all shapes, colors and sizes. Arguably the most versatile accessory, earrings serve as a means of making a statement in a way different than wearing a brightly colored shirt or uniquely embroidered pants. Although some prefer to remain in the comfort zone of small studs or hoops, more and more are beginning to embrace all that statement earrings have to offer. First, it must be acknowledged that unique earrings do not always consist of cheap, obnoxiously colored plastic. This fear resonates with many but is ultimately an unfair sigma ignited by loud, heavy costume jewelry from the ’80s. While few continue to wear pieces along those lines, accessories made of tassels, beads, classic metals and even wood have become popular. Statement earrings reveal both boldness and originality, attesting to the power of their comeback. They can be showcased flawlessly in a selfie, act as a
supporting role to any good hair day or even draw attention away from a bad one and create a sense of personality for those who love to dress simply. Generally, a pair of cool earrings is more cost friendly than a statement article of clothing or pair of shoes. The options are endless and can surely feel overwhelming. Therefore, much like picking out a new blouse or dress, it is important to discern what style is uniquely yours – I mean, isn’t that what fashion is all about? The thought of showcasing a pair of risky earrings with an entire ensemble is daunting, but if executed correctly, deemed empowering. The perfect duo exists for every fashionista – floral and bow-tied for the romantic, mismatched and asymmetrical for those who love to live boldly, and handmade from wires for the hippie. For those struggling to bust out of their comfort zone, I offer you some inspiration. Compliment a bare face with an oversized pair of earrings and allow your jewelry to do the talking. Couple your favorite denim with a pair of dangling, multi-colored gem stones, or liven up the classic little black dress with a few turquoise feathers. Color isn’t your thing? Invest in a pair of gold tassel posts or classic oversized hoops. Whether you prefer to play it safe or embrace any challenge thrown at you, I am certain a set of earrings beaming with novelty exist for you. So, the question remains – will you dare to dangle?
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A DISHEVELED
D APPROACH 35
How fashion retailers became Coachella’s headliners E By Maya Murray
ach year, attendees of the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival face a similar dilemma: what to wear. What was once a lax venue for music-lovers has become a mecca for celebrities, influencers, and fashion houses alike. Driving this symbiotic relationship between fashion houses and festivals is, of course, social media and its influencers. During the two weekends of the festival, photos of celebrities and models in their perfect ensembles dominate Instagram and Twitter feeds. The result: the mainstreaming of the Coachella attendee and the birth of ‘Festival Season’. Lasting four months, March through June, ‘Festival Season’ garments -rugged denim cutoffs, fringed vests, and bodysuits- line the shelves of most retail stores. Even haute couturea Each year, attendees of the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival face a similar dilemma: what to wear. What was once a lax venue for music-lovers has become a mecca for celebrities, influencers, and fashion houses alike. Driving this symbiotic relationship between fashion houses and festivals is, of course, social media and its influencers. During the two weekends of the festival, photos of celebrities and models in their perfect ensembles dominate Instagram and Twitter feeds. The result: the mainstreaming of the Coachella attendee and the birth of ‘Festival Season’. Lasting four months, March through June, ‘Festival Season’ garments -rugged denim cutoffs, fringed vests, and bodysuits- line the shelves of most retail stores. Even haute couture fashion houses like Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé, and Alice + Olivia have subscribed to the craze. In fact days before the kick-off of Weekend 1 last year, Alice + Olivia released select items from the Spring 2016 collection geared toward festivalgoers. This was no coincidence. CEO and designer, Stacey Bendet, admitted in a press release “I came up with the idea to have the show around Coachella and have the runway looks be based upon things that every girl would want to wear to a music festival.” Of course, all are beautiful and encompass luxe, however all have analogues available at H&M and Forever 21. This apparent shift in festival culture is both embraced and criticized by the resulting #nochella movement. The #nochella movement embodies the ways
in which Coachellagoers are not physically spending time at the festival. In other words, the festival’s ‘first class’ is choosing to skip the main event for by-invitation parties to network with highly curated crowds in their ready-towear fringe pieces. Ultimately, the #nochella movement represents the diaspora of high-profile festivalgoers that no longer need the physical setting of Coachella to reap the benefits of their attendance. Though the emphasis on what festivalgoers are wearing might seem shallow and merely a product of commercialization, for others it is a bona fide way of expression. After all, the Coachella Valley Music and Arts festival acknowledges that art (yes, fashion is art) is a crucial element to the experience. Regardless, what happens at Coachella has no chance of staying at Coachella. In fact, it will probably appear on the runway. And in stores, too. fashion houses like Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé, and Alice + Olivia have subscribed to the craze. In fact days before the kick-off of Weekend 1 last year, Alice + Olivia released select items from the Spring 2016 collection geared toward festivalgoers. This was no coincidence. CEO and designer, Stacey Bendet, admitted in a press release “I came up with the idea to have the show around Coachella and have the runway looks be based upon things that every girl would want to wear to a music festival.” Of course, all are beautiful and encompass luxe, however all have analogues available at H&M and Forever 21. This apparent shift in festival culture is both embraced and criticized by the resulting #nochella movement. The #nochella movement embodies the ways in which Coachellagoers are not physically spending time at the festival. In other words, the festival’s ‘first class’ is choosing to skip the main event for by-invitation parties to network with highly curated crowds in their ready-towear fringe pieces. Ultimately, the #nochella movement represents the diaspora of high-profile festivalgoers that no longer need the physical setting of Coachella to reap the benefits of their attendance. Though the emphasis on what festivalgoers are wearing might seem shallow and merely a product of commercialization, for others it is a bona fide way of expression. After all, the Coachella Valley Music and Arts festival acknowledges that art (yes, fashion is art) is a crucial element to the experience. Regardless, what happens at Coachella has no chance of staying at Coachella. In fact, it will probably appear on the runway. And in stores, too.
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ETHEREAL
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FAS HI ON ’S
By Maya Muarry
It is no secret that fresh water is a scarce resource. In fact, you may have felt guilty after realizing how much water it takes to enjoy that warm shower you look forward to at the end of the day. Or perhaps, you’ve watched a vegan documentary and experienced a twinge of remorse for eating a hamburger, a product of the water-intensive meat industry. What you are likely not aware of is that the pair of blue jeans you’re wearing used around 1800 gallons of freshwater to produce- about 50 times more water used in the average shower session and 3 times more water used in the production of a hamburger (treehugger.com). Though it isn’t a lone culprit in the global water crisis, the fashion industry is among the thirstiest industries leading the uneven distribution of freshwater across the globe. Cotton, one of the most water-intensive crops, represents almost half the fiber used in textile production worldwide. Besides cotton’s unquenchable demand for freshwater, it also accredits for nearly ¼ of insecticide use globally. The resulting chemical runoff from insecticide-contaminated soil can enter waterways, destroying ecosystems and the respective industries that rely on these sources of water. A more present threat to human life, however, is the depletion of freshwater sources in densely populated, garment-industry reliant -subsequently water- scarce- communities around the world. Water security as a threat to mankind is becoming an increasingly closer reality and the stress of the fashion industry is only exacerbating the issue. The inputs of production aren’t the only aspects of garment production that use water. According to EcoWatch the garment-dying process uses almost half a trillion gallons of water annually. Beyond the processes of production, water consumption continues. After you wear the garment (hopefully more than once), it has to be washed. Depending on your washer machine 25-40 gallons of water is used per load, according to water.usgs.gov. The fashion industry is relentless in its quest for water. At both the aggregate and household levels, the life of a single garment is putting more strain on the environment and on society than the car you drive. As a consumer, we have the ability to reduce the industry’s footprint by practicing conscious consumption. Being engaged and involved in all steps of consumption, like observing water usage, supporting domestic production, purchasing from sustainable brands (Reformation, Patagonia, and H&M to name a few), and even thrifting rather than purchasing new can help ensure a safer future for all.
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Artwork by Michelle Feng