Food Lovers Guide - Chinatown and Haymarket by Southern Colour

Food Loversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Guide to

2012

chinatown & haymarket

Ceremonial Arch and Stone Dragons

ling dar

imo ult

aaron’s hotel

CHINATOWN/ HAYMARKET

douglas

GEO RGE

eager

GEORG E raw son ra ws on

MAP

ELIZABETH

PEDESTRIAN WALKWAY FREE WI-FI

www.metrotransport.com.au

HAY

blac kburn foster

belmore park

lig htr ail ac ce ss

Open Tu to Sat, 11am - 6pm, closed public holidays.

valen tine

TRAIN STATION

barlo w

ay qu

prince 5 centre

War Memorial

City of Sydney Kiosk Haymarket Library 4A Centre for Contemporary Asian Art

G haymarket

Commemorating the contribution of people of Chinese background throughout the history of war. F

ultim o

MONORAIL STATION MONORAIL

capitol theatre

capitol square

library

CASTLEREAG H

harbour

HAY

LIGHTRAIL STATION LIGHTRAIL

camp bell

cun ning ham

kien hay 19 D centre

the peak apartments

uts library

PLACES OF INTEREST

central railway station

reservoir mary

Symbol of protection: male dragon with one paw on top of a globe to symbolise caring for the world. Female dragon with one paw over her cub for the protection of children and family.

HOTELS SHOPS & SERVICES

HERBS&TEA

paddy’s markets

GOULB URN

SWEETS & ICE CREAM

university of technology sydney

sy enter c

BARS PUBS & BOTTLE SHOPS

ED DY central

ELIZABE TH

A project of the State of NSW and Guadon Province in China to commemorate Australia’s 1988 Bicentenary.

market city & paddy’s markets

OTHER ASIAN CUISINES

little hay

paddy’s markets

CHINESE SPECIALTIES

rai lw ay ac ce ss

Chinese Garden of Friendship

YUM CHA

square

PI TT

sydney entertainment centre

park er

Kwong Wah Chong at 84 Dixon Street

park er la

The oldest remaining shopfront - established in 1912 at the hype of the famous noodle cafes, gambling houses and refuges for seamen from China.

ra ilw ay

alb ion

museum railway station

LIVERPO OL

factory

Golden Water Mouth Tree

Made from a dead yellow box gumtree. Water trickles down it’s gold leaf plated branches. The water symbolises life and the gold fosters prosperity.

harbour plaza

40 world

GEO RGE

ELIZABET H

little p ier

th om as

reservoir mary

rai lw ay ac ce ss

park er

PI TT

ra ilw ay

ac ce ss

PLACES OF INTEREST

foster

thom as

PITT

GEORG E

th om as

park er la

HAY

The information included in this guide is correct at the time of printing. Urban Walkabout regrets that they cannot accept liabilities from errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily the views of the publisher.

In partnership with

view of south end of Dixon Street marketDetailed city & paddy’s market

Produced and published lig by Urban Walkabout ED NSW 2010 Tel: 02 9698 4115 urbanwalkabout.com tra 120A Devonshire StreethSurry Hills il DY Photography by Helen White © 2012 Urban Walkabout Cover photography by Helen White, featured dish Prawn Dumplings with Chilli Soy central To Surry Hills central Sauce, Marigold Restaurant railway station Circulation: 65,000 copies (English version), 15,000 copies (Chinese version)

Supporter

world square

pier

blac kburn

hyde park

LIVERPO OL mono rail

SUSSEX

GEO RGE

HAY

kien hay centre

DIXON

y qua

ra ws on

belmore park

DIXON

raw son

1 2 3 4 9 12 19 28 32 35 37 38 46 47

To City

central

chinese garden of friendship

kimber

Welcome A Plotted History of Chinatown camp bell kien hay 24 Hours in Chinatown centre Yum Cha capitol capitol square HAY with Q&A Adam Liaw theatre Chinese Specialties Other haymarket Asian Cuisines libraryBrad Chan Q&A with ultim o Bars Pubs & Bottle Shops Sweets & Ice Cream Herbs & Tea Hotels Shops & Services b w Don't MissarloDiary Dates 2012 Directory

albio n

SUSSEX

cun ning ham

DIXON

Contents

N 23

kimber

SUSSEX

ttle hay

little hay

kent

GOULB URN

tumbalong park

wilmot

SUSSEX

sydney entertainment centre

bi jo u

world square

PITT

GEO RGE

eager

alb ion

To Surry Hills

Welcome Traditional tea houses, wicker steamers full of plump dumplings, hot woks firing up in crowded kitchens, seafood tanks, noodle slurperies and aromatic cooking scents that work their way from restaurant kitchens to passers by on the street. This is all part of the Eastern promise of Sydney's Chinatown — an exciting melting pot of flavours and cuisines from the Orient — from Cantonese, Northern Chinese, Peking, Sichuan, Chinese Halal, Indonesian, Malaysian, Japanese, Korean, Taiwanese, Thai, Cambodian and more. Across Hay Street from Paddy’s Markets at the southern end of Dixon Street, is the historic heart of Chinatown. The opium dens and gambling lairs of the past are long gone and Chinatown's eversprawling streets meander from the main pedestrian area on Dixon with a Paifang or pavilion at each end. George Street and Sussex Street are the main thoroughfares. The gold-plated bilingual street signs also translate their names in Chinese characters. The hard part is choosing where to go and what to order as you negotiate menus packed with hundreds of tongue-tingling dishes, like roast duck with plum sauce, chilli crab, honey prawns, bean curd in oyster sauce, barbeque pork ribs, silky noodles and delicious ramen. Are we making your mouth water yet? Then grab your chop sticks and read on. Here's your easy-to-use pocket foodie guide complete with handy map to help you get around the best of the best restaurants, eateries and noodle bars of Chinatown and Haymarket. Enjoy!

WELCOME 1

a plotted history of chinatown Above the hustle and bustle of today’s Dixon Street, the remnants of a mysterious and sometimes dark past of long-gone opium dens and gambling halls remain.

1920s

1940s American troops in Sydney (World War II) come looking for chicken chop suey, egg foo yung and roast duck, and the trend for fast, tasty Chinese food spreads.

Chinatown shifts to its current location around Dixon Street after the city council builds new fruit and vegetable markets closer to Darling Harbour. The Capitol Theatre is built in 1928.

1960s Easing of immigration restrictions lead to a gradual influx of new immigrants to Chinatown and encourages South East Asian investors to buy properties along Dixon Street and the area is invigorated.

1850s Sydney experiences a large influx of Chinese migrants driven by a system of indentured labour as well as by the gold rushes of the 1850s and 1860s. The original Chinatown is born at The Rocks.

1980s Hot and sour, sweet and sour and lemon flavours creep into restaurants' daily specials. Menus adapt to attract Australians with more westernised dishes. Pavilions (Paifang) are built at each end of Dixon Street. The inscription reads “All men are brothers within the four seas.”

2 A PLOTTED HISTORY OF CHINATOWN

1870–1900s A second Chinatown develops close to the fruit and vegetable markets where the Capitol Theatre, Haymarket stands today. Chinese residents spread into Surry Hills.

Today Sydney’s Chinatown is the centre for Chinese New Year festivities stretching for three weeks every year. The celebrations include a Twilight Parade, Dragon Boat and Sedan Chair Races as well as night markets.

24 hours

10am

AROUND CHINATOWN

Morning Stroll — Chinese Garden of Friendship

Take some time out with a stroll through the picturesque Chinese Garden of Friendship near Darling Harbour. Enjoy some quiet reflection under a willow tree and watch koi swim through tranquil ponds. Hire traditional dress to pose for photos if you’re feeling immersive.

12pm

Lunch Time — Yum Cha

2pm

Art Fix — 4A Centre for Contemporary Asian Art

Get your culture fix at 4A Centre for Contemporary Asian Art, open from 11am. Explore innovative visual works from artists of the Asia-Pacific region.

4pm

To Market — Paddy’s Markets

For a change of pace, wander the bustling aisles of Paddy’s Markets and witness the sights and sounds of vendors peddling trinkets, souvenirs and fresh produce.

7pm

After Dark — Friday Night Markets

The Friday night markets are a vibrant excursion through the heart of Chinatown — Dixon Street. Graze on Asian street food offerings as you weave your way through the crowds, checking out the market stalls and drinking in the atmosphere.

Head to one of the great Yum Cha hot spots, score a seat in the middle of the restaurant as bamboo baskets trolley past, and pick and choose from a cornucopia of dim sum. 24 HRS IN CHINATOWN 3

YUM CHA Yum cha is a dining experience which involves drinking Chinese tea and eating dim sum â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a range of small dishes which are steamed, fried or baked and may be savoury or sweet. Wandering trolleys filled with bamboo baskets, steaming dumplings and the happy chatter of friends and families...â&#x20AC;&#x2030;you haven't experienced Chinatown until you've enjoyed yum cha.

In Chinese tradition, the most common way to greet someone in "Ni chi bao le ma?" which means "Have you eaten yet?" 4 YUM CHA

The Eight

You’re bound to be in luck at The Eight— considered a lucky number by the Chinese — a stylish modern restaurant with a comprehensive menu that runs from traditional to new-wave fusion Chinese dishes. By day it’s yum cha central, with over 70 dishes to choose from. It’s hard to resist the glamour of Peking duck carved at your table: a two-course affair that starts with crisp duck skin in soft pancakes and finishes with duck sang choy bow lettuce cups. Wok-seared beef with foie gras paste is one of their signature dishes, and live seafood from the tanks is always popular. Level 3, Market City. T: 9282 9988 theeightrestaurant.com.au 7 days Lunch & Dinner Yum cha/Lunch: 10am–3.30pm Sa Su: 9am–4pm

YUM CHA 5

Marigold

Every lunchtime, Marigold is bustling with yum cha trolleys and diners eating their way through a menu that spans over 100 varieties of dim sum. There’s no shortage of choice and staff are happy to lift a bamboo steamer lid for you to take a look if you’re not sure. A new night-time dim sum degustation is one way to beat the crowds— a set menu of eleven dishes is available Sundays through Thursdays during dinner. Level 4 & 5, 683 George Street. T: 9281 3388 marigold.com.au Daily 10am-3pm & 5.30pm–11pm

6 YUM CHA

Emperor's Garden

A specialist in Cantonese cuisine, the newly renovated Emperor’s Garden Restaurant seats a total of 350 diners over two floors. Curry crab is the signature dish here, a thick spiced yellow curry with coconut cream and a secret blend of Chinese spices that includes lemongrass, curry powder and a touch of dried chilli. Soak up the rich sauce with steamed fluffy mantou buns.The two-course Peking duck is also popular, or try the pan-fried barramundi with pork mince and vermicelli. Otherwise join the yum cha hoards at lunchtime and enjoy your pick of dishes from the roaming trolleys of steamed and fried dumplings. Sit outside in Dixon Street mall and watch the world go by as you feast beneath the iconic red gates of Sydney’s Chinatown. 100 Hay Street. T: 9211 2135/9211 2268 emperorsgarden.com.au Daily 7.30am–1.30am YUM CHA 7

east ocean restaurant

With an emphasis on modern Cantonese cuisine, East Ocean is known for both its fresh seafood and quality yum cha. A recent shift to an a-la-carte yum cha menu sees your dumplings now cooked to-order and served piping hot from the kitchen to a quieter and less chaotic dining room. It also means no need to constantly look out for the elusive dessert trolley. For dinner try the lobster cooked in ginger and shallots, plucked live from the fish tanks, or the cold-served abalone. Peking duck and XO pipis are always a hit, or splurge on the King crab, divided and served three different ways. The 450-seat restaurant has private dining rooms which would suit groups and corporates. Care has been taken with the wine list too, with wine matches from France, Australia, New Zealand and Italy. Level 1, 421–429 Sussex Street. T: 9212 4198 eastocean.com.au M–F 10am–2am Sa Su 9am–2pm

8 YUM CHA

Q&A ADAM LIAW

Since winning MasterChef Australia series two in 2010, Adam Liaw has been crafting a strong culinary reputation and researching both traditional and contemporary styles of Asian cooking in Sydney. We chat with Adam about all things Chinatown, as he talks us through classic dishes, yum cha and more.

dam's father is Hainanese Chinese from Malaysia while his mother was born in Singapore, with English, French and Indonesian heritage. Adam himself was born in Penang, grew up in South Australia and has lived in Japan. All of this makes for a fertile background from which to draw and develop a nuanced food philosophy.

Q&A WITH ADAM LIAW 9

10 Q&A WITH ADAM LIAW

As an esteemed chef, how does Chinatown inspire you? The general quality and range of food and ingredients you are exposed to inspires me. Chinatown is home to my favourite yum cha restaurants1 and a BBQ place2 that I pick roast pork up from on the way home. There is also a great herbalist3 that stocks a rich mix of herbs and things you can’t pick up elsewhere; ingredients that you would have to run all over the place to find in other cities. And it’s all right in the middle of the city of Sydney. What are the basic principles to bear in mind when cooking Chinese food? When cooking Chinese food at home people have a tendency to use big, heavy sauces synonymous with the bad Chinese food that we used to get in Australia, but don’t really have now. It’s all about the flavour of natural ingredients. For example, at Chinatown’s Golden Century restaurant, it takes as little as ten minutes between selecting your meal from a tank of live seafood and eating it, it’s not about taking hours and hours to prepare.

What’s a common misconception about Chinese food? That it’s one cuisine. Northern Chinese cuisine is different from Cantonese, which is different again from Sichuan. Western Chinese is distinctive again — as is Southern and Eastern Chinese cuisine. I cook a lot of Northern Chinese dishes as my mother lives in Beijing. What’s the one ingredient you can’t fathom cooking without? Chillies! Some classic dishes? There are so many! Golden Century’s Pipis in XO sauce or Kung Pao Chicken are great classics, but my personal favourite is yum cha — it’s not just a style of cooking and it’s not a dish, it’s a whole meal. Ultimate yum cha dish? I love bean curd skin rolls — a mix of pork and mushroom wrapped in bean curd 1 The Eight (L3 Market City), East Ocean (L1 421 Sussex St) and Emperor's Garden (100 Hay St) 2

Emperor's Garden BBQ (213 Thomas St)

Chinese Ginseng and Herbs (75 Ultimo Rd)

Q&A WITH ADAM LIAW 11

CHINESE SPECIALTIES Sink your teeth into juicy BBQ duck, feast on fresh seafood, test your chilli endurance, or try the unique cuisine of the Uighur people. This section includes specialties such as Seafood, BBQ, Sichuan, Northern Chinese, and Muslim Chinese.

Q&A

henry tang

fish maw, shark fin - thought to be the secret to the fountain of youth! What's Chinatown's best-kept secret? For groceries, 'Evergreen' on Dixon St. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the most popular dish at Zilver? The wok seared diced beef fillet with black pepper sauce. How many dumplings do your restaurants make every weekend? Each basket contains 3 dumplings, we produce about 1000 baskets per day, so that would be about 3000 dumplings! Restauranteur Henry Tang,

What are 3 must-dos in Chinatown? owner of 'Zilver' and 'The Eight' Yum Cha, Paddy's Markets and trying in Chinatown. dried seafood from a store - abalone, 12 CHINESE SPECIALTIES

Zilver

The east-meets-west menu at Zilver is matched by décor that is modern and sleek with bronze pillars, timber screens and billowing silk canopies overhead. The menu runs the gamut of both contemporary and classic dishes, with a section dedicated to fusion dishes. Specialty dishes include the deep-fried live mud crab tossed in salted egg as well as the seafood curry with pumpkin. Those seeking something a little different should try the roasted pigeon or the wok-seared beef with wasabi sauce. The flaming pork ribs with mayonnaise is always an attention getting spectacle. At lunchtime, Zilver is buzzing with yum cha patrons keen on getting their dumpling fix. A dedicated bar area is perfect for drinks before or after dinner. Sydney Central Building (opposite Capitol Theatre) Level G, 477 Pitt Street (cnr Hay Street & Pitt Street) T: 9211 2232 F: 9211 5670 E: info@zilver.com.au Lunch M–F 10am–3.30pm Sa–Su 9am–3.30pm Dinner daily 5.30pm–11pm

CHINESE SPECIALTIES 13

Golden Century

The wall of fish tanks at the entrance tells you how seriously Golden Century takes its seafood. Pipis in XO sauce are a must-have — mop up the spicy seafood sauce with batons of golden brown deep-fried bread. Live seafood from the tanks include parrot fish, abalone and prawns. Open until 4am every day, it’s the perfect spot for a late night fix of salt and pepper squid or Chinese rice porridge congee. 393–399 Sussex Street T: 9212 3901 goldencentury.com.au Daily 12pm–4am 5

Chinese Noodle House

Transitional northern Chinese food abounds here. Try the specialty dish — knife sliced noodle, requiring a quick and steady hand to shave off noodle ribbons from a block of dough. Have your noodles boiled and served with a clear soup or a saucy pork mince, or get them stir-fried with meat or vegetables — the most popular method. It’s all cheap and cheerful with large servings, and all dumplings and noodles are handmade. TG2, 8 Quay Street, Prince Centre. T: 9281 4508 M to Sa 10am–9.30pm Su 10am–9pm 14 CHINESE SPECIALTIES

Taste of Shanghai

The gateway to authentic Shanghainese cuisine in Sydney. Taste of Shanghai has a great selection of traditional dishes such as the famous cold drunken chicken, steamed pork dumpling and the sweet and sour mandarin fish with pine nuts, not to mention the braised pork belly. With so many signature dishes, you are destined to come back again and again to entice your tastebuds. Shop 907, World Square. T: 9261 8832 tasteofshanghai.com.au 7 days 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm

CHINESE SPECIALTIES 15

BBQ King

An institution since 1979, the charm of BBQ King is still its sumptuous food and famous plates of roast meats. The Peking duck and barbeque pork are popular favourites among the locals. 18-20 Goulburn Street. T: 9267 2433 Daily 11am–2am M–F 10am–5pm Sa–Su 10am–4pm

6 Silk Road Chinese Halal Restaurant

Explore the cuisine of Chinese Hui people, a Muslim ethnic minority who hail from far North-West China. Try Xinjiang lamb shish kebabs dusted generously with cumin, the Chinese hamburger, or their vast range of dumplings. All noodles are handmade on the premises. Shop 2, 209 Thomas Street. T: 9211 5881 Daily 10am–10pm 32

Uighur Cuisine

If you like lamb, you’ll love the kebabs at Uighur Cuisine, chunks of juicy lamb dusted with cumin and grilled on sword-like skewers. There are also stir-fries, handmade noodles, and dumplings available steamed and pan-fried. 1/8 Dixon Street. T: 9267 8555 Su–Th 11am–9pm F–Sa 11am–11pm 16 CHINESE SPECIALTIES

Twisted Noodle Bar

How spicy do you like it? You can take charge of your own chilli and sour levels when you order the Yunnan noodle in pork soup, the biggest selling dish at Twisted Noodle Bar. Choose from none to extreme chilli and zero to large serves of their sour preserved vegetables. There are a dozen different noodle soups on the menu plus interesting side dishes like fried chilli chicken wings and soft bone pork. The kitchen makes its own chilli paste using three different types of chilli and boils 200 litres of fresh pork stock every day. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot of noodle soup! Shop 44/1 Dixon Street. T: 9267 2327 7 days 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm

CHINESE SPECIALTIES 17

25 28

Red Chilli Sichuan

Chilli fanatics will revel in the tongue-tingling menu that comes with a helpful chilli grading for heat gauge. The newer Harbour Plaza restaurant focuses on modern Sichuan dishes - the stir-fried mud crab with pork mince, preserved vegetables and dried chilli is a bestseller. At their original venue on 51 Dixon Street, expect more traditional dishes like kung pao chicken and mapo tofu.

Harbour Plaza Shop 28 Shop 108/25–29 Dixon Street. Haymarket NSW 2000 T: 9211 8130 Chinatown Shop 25 Shop 3, 51–53 Dixon Street. Haymarket NSW 2000 T: 02 9211 8122 Chatswood Shop Level 1/272 Victoria Avenue. Chatswood NSW 2067 T: 02 9411 3298 Glebe Hotpot Shop 15–21 Glebe Point Road. Glebe NSW 2037 T: 02 9518 5328 Burwood Shop 35C Burwood Road. Burwood NSW 2134 T: 02 9745 2258 Brisbane Shop 42/342 McCullough Street. Sunnybank QLD 4109 T: 07 3345 6789

redchilligroup.com.au

18 YUM CHA

OTHER ASIAN CUISINES Send your tastebuds on a delicious journey around South East Asia with Japanese sushi and ramen, Korean BBQ meats, Taiwanese noodles, Malaysian roti and Thai curries.

CUISINE KEY

Indonesian

Korean

Taiwanese

Japanese

Malay

Thai

At traditional Japanese restaurants, staff will often greet you with a chorus of "Irrashaimase," This means "welcome" or "please come in". You do not need to respond â&#x20AC;&#x201D; it's simply their way of welcoming you. OTHER ASIAN CUISINES 19

Menya Noodle Bar

With a reputation for serving up some of Sydney’s best ramen, Menya is a haven for noodle lovers. Its signature tonkotsu soup is made by simmering pork bones, or order the torigara soup which is a chicken soup alternative. Try the kogashi — ninniki ramen — sweet with caramelised garlic — or stick with the original ton-toro with fatty slices of pork. TG8, 8 Quay Street. T: 9212 1020 menya.com.au. Lunch M–Su 11.30am–3.30pm Dinner M–F 5.30pm–9pm Sa–Su 5pm–9pm

The Meeting Point

Try The Meeting Point's signature dish — collagen shabu shabu, made with all natural ingredients. Sample this and other dishes inspired by traditional Taiwanese cuisine with a dash of Szechuan style. The restaurant space evokes an old industrial feel, holds regular live music on weekends and has free Wi-Fi. Check their Facebook page to keep up to date. Market City, Shop R1.01B/9-13 Hay Street. T: 9280 3680 themeetingpoint.com.au M toTh Su 11.30am–10.30pm F Sa 11.30am–11.30pm 20 OTHER ASIAN CUISINES

ZoZo

If you’ve always fancied yourself as a chef, then Korean barbeque is the perfect chance for you to show off your cooking skills. At ZoZo you can order marinated meats and seafood and then take charge of the sizzling barbecue on the tabletop hotplate. Waitstaff are always happy to lend a hand if you’re not sure what to do. Prefer to relax and let the kitchen do all the cooking? Then check out the crispy seafood pancake, fire chilli chicken and bibimbab: a traditional crispy rice dish served in a hot stone bowl. A special lunch menu is available Monday to Friday. Shop 10/26 Liverpool Street, World Square (under Monorail station). T: 9267 8040 M to Sa 11.30am–3am Su 11.30am–midnight OTHER ASIAN CUISINES 21

Mizuya

Booth seating and touch screen menus, as well as 24 private dining rooms equipped with karaoke facilities, are a major drawcard of this venue, and create an ideal atmosphere for chilling out with friends. Browse through the extensive drinks menu with 180 options including Japanese style cocktails and mocktails. Enjoy Izakaya style food with its harmony of flavours - sushi and sashimi or premium Wagyu beef (pictured), but the most fun is in the assortment of grilled skewers (kushiyaki) or the 'customise your own' hot pot option. Basement, 614 George Street. T: 9266 0866 mizuya.com.au Su to Th 11.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight Sa Su 11:30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2am

22 OTHER ASIAN

Umi Kaiten Zushi &

Umi sushi + Udon

Take a seat at the sushi train of Umi Kaiten Zushi, a modern Japanese dining bar with salmon, tuna and prawn joined by more unusual items like surf clam, sea urchin and Japanese favourite, natto fermented soy beans. Diners can also order from the a-la-carte menu — with items including wagyu beef steak, spicy scallop carpaccio (pictured) and orange soy oysters. The recently opened Umi Sushi + Udon offers both traditional and creative sushi options alongside a focus on Sanuki Udon, characterised by its firm, chewy texture using a special type of wheat traditionally

grown in Kagawa Prefecture, Japan. Enjoy a traditional Kyoto style decor as you venture through Umi Sushi + Udon’s specialty Japanese cuisine. Umi Kaiten Zushi Shop 1, Lower Ground Floor, Sydney Central, 477 Pitt Street (cnr Hay & Parker Street). T: 9281 2006 umikaitenzushi.com.au M-F 11.30am-10pm Sa-Su 12pm-10pm Umi Sushi + Udon Shop 19, Darling Quarter, 1–25 Harbour Street. T:9283 2006 umisushi.com.au 7 days 11:30am–10pm

OTHER ASIAN CUISINES 23

Delima Restaurant

Never tried Indonesian cuisine or would like to recall a fun filled journey in Bali? Delima offers a good start, set in tasteful surrounds with warm, wooden furnishings. The extensive menu has pictures of every dish, making ordering easy, but it's hard to go past Indonesian classics like chicken satay, 'Nasi Goreng Indonesia' or cubes of fall-apart-tender beef rendang. Fried chicken fans should seek out the ayam goreng kalasan, covered in a blanket of crispy spices for extra crunch. There is plenty of seafood too, with chilli mud crab (pre-order), stir-fry prawns and grilled whole fish. For a flavoursome finale, finish with shaved ice desserts, banana fritters, or try the pancake durian if you dare! Bintang Pilsener is also available here. 69/ 1 Dixon Street. T: 9267 7045 delimarestaurant.com.au 7 days 11.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9pm 24 OTHER ASIAN CUISINES

dae Jang Kum Korean BBQ

The best part about eating at a Korean restaurant is 'banchan', a spread of complementary side dishes that include salad, pickled vegetables and kimchee, fermented Chinese cabbage with Korean spices. It’s the perfect way to whet your appetite before perusing the massive menu at Dae Jang Kum. Chilli lovers will relish the 'teok bok ki', spicy rice cakes and the 'bo ssam', pork belly boiled in a master broth best served with lettuce, chilli, and radish kimchee. It’s not all hot - there are grilled cheese oysters, 'jap chae' clear potato noodles and crunchy fried chicken. You can also barbecue your choice of marinated meats, seafood and vegetables on the tabletop grill. Fully licensed, BYO wine available with $5 corkage. 35 Goulburn Street. T: 9211 0890 daejangkum.com.au M to Th 11am–4am F Sa 11am–6am Su 11am–2am

OTHER ASIAN CUISINES 25

satang thai exclusive

Join the constant gaggle of uni students at Satang Thai Exclusive and hoe into generous serves of pad thai stir-fried rice noodles or chicken mixed with cashew nuts or doused in a sticky chilli jam. The buzzy modern dining room stretches over two floors with casual timber benches downstairs and wooden chairs on the first floor. Crispy pork belly with chilli, garlic and basil is always a crowd-pleaser or try the funnysounding drunky noodle which comes with a sweet and spicy black bean sauce. Soothe any tingling tastebuds with a tall glass of cold and sweet Thai red tea. 203-204/107 Quay Street. T: 9212 5889 satangthai.com.au 7 days 11.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm

26 OTHER ASIAN CUISINES

Mamak

Check out the live roti-making show in the windows before ordering the flaky roti served with curry sauce. Other highlights include Malaysian style fried chicken, smoky chicken satay sticks and sweet roti tisu glazed with sugar. 15 Goulburn Street. T: 9211 1668 7 days lunch & dinner Supper F–Sa until 2am 12

Chat Thai

Constant queues and loyal Thai patronage provide the best endorsement here. Authentic curries, salads, fish and grilled meats range from mild to fiery and the dessert offerings are mouthwatering. Supper runs from 10pm–2am. 20 Campbell Street. T: 9211 1808 Daily 10am–2am 20 Mother Chu Taiwanese Gourmet

Fresh yu tiao are the highlight here, fried bread sticks best served with congee rice porridge. Watch the dumpling makers in the open kitchen as you order some freshly made pork or beef dumplings. Shop 1–4, 86–88 Dixon Street. T: 9211 0288 Daily 8.30am–8.30pm OTHER ASIAN CUISINES 27

Q&A brad chan Brad Chan, President of the Haymarket Chamber of Commerce, speaks of the new diversity defining Sydney’s Chinatown.

t’s very rare to find Brad Chan ordering from the same menu twice in Chinatown. He is well versed in Sydney’s iconic slice of Asian culture, and a great promoter for exploring the new trails of tastes and textiles emerging in Chinatown as part of the City of Sydney’s $9 million development strategy for the area. Stage One is now discernible, with beautified laneways featuring public art and a string of new restaurants and retail offerings.

28 Q&A WITH BRAD CHAN

Chinatown exists now as a favourite destination for tourists and locals eager to escape commercial blandness. According to Brad, the evolution process is welcoming in a new era of Chinatown as a hub for high-street Tokyo bred threads. The area is also flirting with the interests of the next generation as a pre-party post to source style, sip sake and satiate hunger within close proximity to Sydney’s CBD.

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Brad believes it is this increasingly diverse nature that sets Sydney’s Chinatown above the rest, and when asked about his ideal map for aspiring Chinatown revellers, suggests experiencing a mix of the old and new. “You have traditional favourites like Golden Century and East Ocean that do really good seafood meals and then there are newer additions such as Mamak known for its authentic Malaysian Cuisine and the selection of Thai restaurants on Campbell Street,” advises Brad. “I also like some of the cake shops. You can have dinner and then try out an assortment of treats, and the bakeries are more or less open for breakfast with a wide choice of what to have,” he says. What is the strangest or most ‘exotic’ thing you’ve eaten in Chinatown? Birds nest soup — which is basically nests made from hardened saliva from a bird. In your opinion what is the best time of day in Chinatown and why? After sunset. The lights are turned on, the restaurants start to buzz, 30 Q&A WITH BRAD CHAN

the area gets more active and Chinatown’s night time economy comes alive. There’s a great vibe in Chinatown at night. Sum Chinatown up in one word: Irreplaceable. Dumplings in Chinatown are best eaten ...? With a napkin over your shirt. I always seem to get drops of oil and sauce on my shirt. I must be enjoying it too much! Your favourite thing about the Chinese culture is... The hospitality of Chinese friends when dining. Your tea cup is always filled, your bowl always has food in it, and then they fight tooth and nail to pay the bill. A useful tip for those planning to explore Chinatown... The Haymarket Chamber’s Historical Walking Tours by George Wing-Kee. A fascinating insight into how Chinatown developed and changed. Any hidden treasures? Some of the Chinese herbalists are an interesting place to visit. You can find a remedy for every ailment whether its allergies, fatigue, skin problems, weight loss or back pain

Slices of Sydney A Sydney degustation showcasing the distinct flavours of each of the 10 villages featured.

Pick up your copy locally at HAYMARKET LIBRARY 744 George St Sydney CITY OF SYDNEY KIOSK Cnr Dixon St & Goulburn St Sydney (from Jan 2012)

bars pubs & BOTTLE sHOPS Feeling thirsty? From traditional Australian pubs to Japanese izakaya bars, there are plenty of spots in Chinatown to quench your thirst. Enjoy a schooner of ice cold beer, sip on martini cocktail or explore a range of sake and Japanese beers.

JB’s Bar, Holiday Inn

Recently refurbished, JB’s Bar at the Holiday Inn allows guests to enjoy breakfast on the go, lunch, dinner or simply unwind over a few drinks and watch passers by. Holiday Inn Darling Harbour 68 Harbour Street. T: 9291 0400 holidayinn.com Daily 11am–late

32 BARS PUBS & BOTTLE SHOPS

18 35 43

Red Bottle

You will be spoilt for choice at Red Bottle’s three centrally located stores in Pitt Street, Sussex Street and Chinatown Market City. Choose from an extensive range of local and overseas wines, spirits, beers and liqueurs. Whether you are after a cask of wine or a special bottle for dinner, the friendly and helpful staff are only too willing to assist. For the more exotic, Red Bottle stores stock a wide range of Cognac, Rum, Whisky and Asian spirits such as Japanese Shochu, Umeshu and sake, plus Korean Soju and Chinese Moutai. Red Bottle Chinatown 18 Shop R1.04 (next to IGA) Market City, 9–13 Hay Street. T: 9211 5822 Red Bottle Sussex Street 35 374 Sussex Street. T: 9283 8877 Red Bottle Pitt Street 43 382 Pitt Street. T: 9267 7431 redbottle.com.au BARS PUBS & BOTTLE SHOPS 33

Mountbatten Hotel

Escape the crowds in this small pub bathed with welcome natural light. Happy Hour runs Monday to Thursday 4pm-6pm with $3 local beers and house wines. Eat cheap with $8 steaks and schnitzels. Cnr George Street & Ultimo Road. T: 9280 4700 Daily 9am–3am 36

Star Hotel

There’s nothing fancy about the Star Hotel but that’s just how the punters like it. This corner pub has beers on tap and TAB facilities with plenty of screens — a perfect escape for the boys. Cnr Sussex and Goulburn Street. T: 9281 8343 7 days, 9am–6am

Market City Tavern

Take a break with a drink and a punt at this cosy tavern with dedicated TAB facilities and screens. An outdoor garden terrace bar is perfect for unwinding after a long day on your feet. Ground Floor, L1, L2 Market City. T: 9211 8886 Su–Th 8am-2am F 8am–3am Sa 6am–6pm 34 BARS PUBS & BOTTLE STORES

SWEETS & ICE CREAM It's always a good time for dessert. Make a pit-stop at a Chinese bakery for snacks that are unbelieveably cheap and delicious. Buns are soft and sweet and can be filled with anything from barbecue pork to egg custards or sweetened red bean.

cold rock ice creamery

Imagine 3000 plus combinations of ice cream smashed with chocolates, lollies, fruits and nuts on the store’s signature “Frozen Rock.” Choose from many sensational flavours including their specialty Asian flavours. If you can dream it, Cold Rock can ice cream it. 90 Hay Street. T: 9211 1095 haymarket@coldrock.com.au Daily 12 noon–11pm

SWEETS & ICE CREAM 35

Palate

Cool down with a scoop of sorbet or gelato at Palate or try one of their specialty lattes in taro, black sesame and green tea. The savoury menu includes pasta, steak, beef satay and Hainanese chicken rice. World Square, Shop 17–18. T: 9264 3661 mypalate.com.au M 7.30am–7pm Tu to F 7.30am–11pm Sa 8.30am–6pm

36 SWEETS & ICE CREAM

herbs & tea Chinese herbal stores provide a fascinating glimpse into Traditional Chinese Medicine, practised for over 2,000 years. Worth an exploratory browse, they're often a great source of unusual gifts or souvenirs.

8 Chinese Gingseng & Herbs Co.

The first and oldest Chinese herbal store in Sydney boasts a range of over 1200 medicinal herbs. Visit the store for some ginseng to improve blood circulation and increase energy, or try the Woodlock liniment with Australian Emu Oil, which is recommended for muscle pain and arthritis. An impressive wall of teas includes varieties from Japan, China, Taiwan and Tibet. A resident herbalist and acupuncturist are also available. 75â&#x20AC;&#x201C;77 Ultimo Road. T: 9212 4397 Daily 9.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;6.30pm HERBS &TEA 37

hotels SHOPS & services Eating is not all you can do in Haymarket, there's also plenty of shopping and useful services as well as great options to stay right in the centre of Chinatown.

Melewah Jewellery

A fine jewellery and timepiece focus is on offer at Melewah Jewellery, established in 1983. Find brands from Armani Exchange, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Dior, Marc Jacobs and more. Melewah also has a large showroom of fine diamond jewellery, south sea pearls, Australian opals, gold jewellery, fine jade and gold bullion, as well as staff, including on site jewelers and watchmakers, that span generations to provide personalised customer service. 434 Sussex Street. T: 9211 5896 melewah.com.au 7 days 10.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;7pm 38 HOTELS SHOPS & SERVICES

The Marque Sydney

A smart and contemporary hotel experience in the heart of Sydney. Fresh and innovative food, unique meeting spaces, modern dĂŠcor and clean simple lines are all complemented by sophisticated, attentive service. Cnr George & Quay Street. T: 9212 2544 marquehotels.com/Sydney

Aarons Hotel Sydney

Situated in a 19th century heritage listed building, Aarons Hotel is all about modern service, comfort and value for money. With rooms catering for up to six people, it's right on the doorstep of the vibrant Chinatown district. 37 Ultimo Road. T: 9281 5555 aaronssydney.com.au 7 days, 24 hrs

HOTELS SHOPS & SERVICES 39

Your Gateway to Chinatown

FOOD FUN FASHION

restaurants entertainment fashion bars beauty gift shops tobacconist convenience store Secure Pay Parking (off Harbour Street) 40 YUM CHA

Ceo KaraoKe . 12noon-4am Cue City Pool hall . 11am-3am Sweet NeSt . Board & Table Games . 12 noon-3am Double Kill . Board & Table Games . 12 noon-3am

NoNya reStauraNt . Singapore/Malaysian Cuisine more more Cha . Malaysian Cuisine ariSuN reStauraNt & SuNS bar & ChiCKeN . Delima reStauraNt . Indonesian Cuisine Fine Dining miga reStauraNt . Traditional Korean BBQ Dining roll PluS . Japanese Casual Dining little lamb hotPot . Casual Chinese Restaurant Crazy wiNgS . Charcoal BBQ Beijing Style Cuisine yijai bbQ . Chinese BBQ Casual Dining twiSteD NooDle . Chinese Southwestern Casual Noodle Bar riChy SNaCKS . A fusion of Asian Style Snacks iSweety houSe . Chinese Southern Style Desserts & Drinks Shi liN FooD . Taiwanese Style Desserts, Snacks & Drinks Sweet NeSt . Chinese Traditional Style Desserts, Snacks & Drinks

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The Haymarket Chamber of Commerce was established to promote the interests of business, commerce, tourism and transport in the Haymarket area and represents a range of industries - from large financial corporations to independently owned shops. The Haymarket Chamber is proud to be involved in the Food Lovers Guide to Chinatown and Haymarket as well as other initiatives that promote the welfare of the local business community. For more details, email us on info@haymarketchamber.org.au or visit www.haymarketchamber.org.au

Suite 301/431 Sussex St. T: 9281 9999 pgmode.blogspace.com.au www.pgmode.com.au

Bank Local.

Call or visit us at Bank Local. Bank Local. Westpac <Bundaberg> on <(07)4155 4222>

Call or visit us at Call or us atatline if required eg. email address > Call orvisit visit us <insert Westpac 671new George St on (02) 8217 0302 Westpac <Bundaberg> on <(07)4155 4222> Westpac 4222> Westpac <Bundaberg> 591 George Ston on<(07)4155 (02) 8251 1488 <insert eg.eg. email address > > <insertnew newline lineif ifrequired required email address © Westpac Banking Corporation ABN 33 007 457 141. AFSL 233714 ACL 233714 (10/11) © Westpac Banking Corporation ABN 33 007 457 141. AFSL 233714 ACL 233714 (10/11)

42 HOTELS SHOPS & SERVICES

FOOD TOURS ON OFFER > Sugar & Spice > CafĂŠ Crawl > Tastes of Asia > European Explorer > Cuba to Caracas > Arabic Adventure and more...

Sydney Chinese New Year Festival 2012 20 Jan - 5 Feb City of Sydney’s Chinese New Year Festival is the biggest celebration of the Lunar New Year outside of Asia, packed with art, film, tours, workshops and of course food! Head to the Markets to watch demonstrations by former MasterChef Australia contestants Adam Liaw and Alvin Quah. Taste traditional fiery Sichuan delicacies from Chengdu or if you like your flavours a little milder... sample a bowl of noodles or tuck into traditional New Year dumplings.

CNY 2012 EVENTS

Festival Launch Fri 20 Jan Chinese New Year Markets Fri 20 – Sun 22 Jan Twilight Parade Sun 29 Jan Dragon Boat Races Sat 4 – Sun 5 Feb Plan your Festival at sydneychinesenewyear.com 44 YUM CHA

Chinatown is changing! An illuminated art installation and murals brighten up Kimber Lane, Little Hay Street is now pedestrian friendly, and work is underway in Thomas and Hay Streets. The Dixon Street pagoda will be transformed into an information kiosk where visitors and locals can get information on Chinatown and Sydney.

More information at cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au

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Don't

miss

diary dates

2012

MAY–AUGUST sydney WRITERS’ festival swf.org.au VIVID SYDNEY vividsydney.com SYDNEY FILM festival sff.org.au Pyrmont Festival of Food Wine & art pyrmontfestival.com

SEPTEMBER– DECEMBER sydney fringe festival thesydneyfringe.com.au sydney children’s festival sydneychildrenfestival.com

JANUARY–April sydney festival 8 – 30 Jan sydneyfestival.org.au TWILIGHT AT TARONGA ZOO 27 Jan – 31 Mar twilightattaronga.com.au mardi gras 12 Feb – 4 Mar mardigras.org.au CHINESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES Festival Launch 20 Jan Chinese New Year Markets Fri 20 – Sun 22 Jan Twilight Parade Sun 29 Jan Dragon Boat Races Sat 4 – Sun 5 Feb 46 DON'T MISS DIARY DATES 2012

art & about artandabout.com.au sculpture by the sea sculpturebythesea.com crave sydney international food festival cravesydney.com sydney christmas & new year celebrations cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/christmas cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/nye