Scotland Correspondent issue 2

Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Outlander effect Teenage Fan Club’s Francis Macdonald from knitting needles to classical music

Scotland’s can do “I do” attitude It’s a Fyne life if you don’t mind luxury A Pardon for Britain’s last witch? p1

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inside this issue 8 Follow the

Jacobite trail

New guide lets visitors follow in the footsteps of the Young Pretender

Outlander by STARZ

36 It’s a Fyne life 16 Love is all

around

Portavadie’s growing attraction as a West Coast luxury resort

56 New tunes and

old fiddles

Blazing a trail for traditional music

Scotland’s appeal as an international wedding destination

98 Piecing together

the past

Repairs to ancient artefact reveal secrets of the Pharos

46 Sweet taste of

64 Backpacking on

The artisan chocolatiers putting the country on the culinary map

The SYHA on opening the door to fresh air and adventure

48 Climbing

72 Smart work

success

28 Drumming up a

storm

Teenage Fan Club’s Francis Macdonald on his portfolio career

89 The witch report

Time to show spirit of forgiveness to celebrated medium

through history

The local hero keeping mountain heritage alive

a budget

Cover Photo

Photograph Outlander

by Starz. See page 8 Follow the Jacobite Trail

Teaching the world from Glasgow

78 Wheels of

fortune

The winning combination of bicycles and mountains

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Scotland Correspondent is an independent magazine celebrating the heritage, history, innovation and entrepreneurship of Scots everywhere.

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Actor Mark Kydd, as Charlie, Opening the campaign to Edinburgh Castle visitors Vanesa Valle and Oscar Calelle from Barcelona. Photo Gareth Easton

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On the trail of Bonnie Prince Charlie as Outlander reawakens interest in the Jacobite story

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housands of pounds are to be invested in creating a new campaign aimed at capitalising on the renewed global appeal of Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobite cause.

The launch of the £40,000 campaign has been timed to coincide with the 229th anniversary of the Prince’s death, on 31 January 1788, and at a time when the historical figure plays a major role in the hit television series, Outlander.

Fuelled by world-wide interest in Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander series of books a number of Scotland’s leading tourism, history and heritage bodies have joined forces to create a new Jacobite trail for visitors.

Through a combination of creating online videos, media promotions and blogger activity, the campaign aims to reach a greater digital audience across the UK, while also tying in with the 2017 Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology.

Dressed as ‘The Young Pretender’, actor Mark Kydd helped announce the campaign at Edinburgh Castle – one of the properties on the trail and a building Charlie was famously unable to capture during his lifetime.

National Museums Scotland, Historic Environment Scotland, Royal Collection Trust and The National Trust for Scotland are to promote 25 properties and attractions throughout the country whose history is intertwined with Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites.

A key part of the campaign takes

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Glen Finnan Bay

here that he raised the Stuart standard and began the final Jacobite Rising which would end at Culloden.

“The Jacobite story is one of Scotland’s most complex, compelling and, ultimately, tragic tales,” said Simon Skinner, Chief Executive of The National Trust for Scotland.

“Through this partnership we hope to bring this important part of Scotland’s heritage to life for visitors at the sites where these events took place.”

Photo: Oliver Bonjoch

Holyrood Palace

place from 23 June to 12 November, when the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh will host the biggest exhibition on the Jacobites in more than 70 years. This will include, among numerous other items, Charlie’s shield, sword and his travelling canteen.

“Through this partnership, we are delighted to extend the exciting invitation to people to not only come here and see those real objects and hear that real story but also to travel the country and visit the places where many of these momentous events actually happened.”

“Our exhibition will present the best material there is – real objects and contemporary accounts and depictions – to present the truth of a story which is even more layered, complex and dramatic than the many fictional and romantic interpretations which exist in popular culture,” said David Forsyth, lead curator of the National Museum of Scotland’s exhibition, Bonnie Prince Charlie and the Jacobites.

A new website – www.jacobitetrail. co.uk – has been created for the campaign. The trail can be downloaded from the site, with a range of further resources to be added in the coming months.

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Other locations highlighted in the online trail include Glenfinnan Monument, which marks the site where Bonnie Prince Charlie came ashore on 19 August 1745. It was

Also included on the trail is the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh. When the Jacobite army took Scotland’s capital city in September 1745, Charlie set up court at the Palace to plan his campaign.

Doune Castle, near Stirling, which is one of the principal filming locations for Outlander, is also included as it was occupied by government troops during the 1689 and 1715 Risings but was taken by the Jacobites in 1745.

We’ve seen a huge increase in footfall to our properties in the wake of the ‘Outlander Effect’, and in Scotland’s Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology we’ve got the perfect opportunity to build on this further by sharing the Jacobite stories associated with them far and wide,” said Stephen Duncan, Director of Commercial and Tourism for Historic Environment Scotland.

Bonnie Prince Charlie

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Perhaps the most haunting connection to the Young Pretender’s failed dream is Culloden Battlefield near Inverness. It was here the Jacobite cause was lost. Using 360-degree immersion theatre, the multi award-winning attraction takes visitors back to one of the bloodiest periods in Scottish history, where

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the Jacobite army of Bonnie Prince Charlie fought to reclaim the throne.

Fort George - D Shaw

Finally, there is Fort George which, although established in the aftermath of Culloden, was used to house government soldiers in a bid to pacify the Highlands. Visitors are often amazed how little the fort has

Battle of Culloden

changed in almost 250 years of active service.

“Scotland’s history and culture is one the top reasons for visiting Scotland and 2017 offers huge opportunities for the tourism industry and collaboration across sectors,” said Malcolm Roughead, Chief Executive

of VisitScotland.

Charles Edward Stewart 1775

“Bonnie Prince Charlie is one of Scotland’s most enduring historical figures and we are delighted, through the VisitScotland Growth Fund, to support this collaborative campaign that will help visitors follow in his footsteps.”

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Photo by Lindsay Robertson

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A land of love and romance for wedding belles and beaus

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t may not have the sun-kissed beaches of a Caribbean island or the Tuscan beauty of Florence but Scotland is fast becoming a rival for the affections of would-be newlyweds.

With almost a quarter of marriages in Scotland now involving couples from abroad, the country’s romantically breathtaking scenery, historic houses, liberal marriage laws and

renowned reputation for hospitality have combined to create the perfect foundation for a wedding boom.

“The market is just about ready to explode,” said Emma Douglas of Destination Weddings Scotland (DWS) who believes that with just a little more promotional effort Scotland substantially increase the value of an industry already worth more than £80 million a year.

“There is a lot of unrealised potential in the market for international groups coming to Scotland. We already have a thriving industry but perhaps we haven’t yet fully understood the value of what we have and what we could have,” said Emma, an experienced wedding planner who says that up to 80 per cent of her clients are now from outside the country.

“Overseas wedding parties tend to

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Photo By Stewart Cunningham

fall into two main categories. First, there are Scots who live abroad and they want to return home to get married, and then there’s people who love just Scotland, even though they may not have any existing inks with the country. Sometimes it’s just as simple as the girl wants to see a boy in kilt.”

While the average UK wedding is estimated to cost in the region of £21,000 many tourist weddings account for an even higher total spend. Although the average number of guests is generally smaller, a larger proportion of them require overnight accommodation and often stay much longer.

“Other countries have realised the potential and have been targeting the overseas wedding market for years,” said Ms Douglas.

“Although the Florentine area of Italy has had a lot of success focussing on international weddings for the last 25 years, as have many of the

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Caribbean islands, Scotland is every bit as beautiful and romantic. We have a lot going for us.”

North Americans tend to make up the majority of overseas wedding parties but there is growing evidence that other nationalities are following suit, especially couples from France, Norway, Sweden, Japan and even China.

Scotland’s romantically breathtaking scenery, historic houses, liberal marriage laws and frequent highprofile celebrity wedding are just a few reasons why almost couples from outside the country chose to take their vows in the land of Robert Burns, one of the most romantic poets of all time.

Over recent years a number of high profile weddings, such as that of tennis champion Andy Murray and his fiance Kim Sears at Dunblane in 2015, have done great deal to promote Scotland as one of the most romantic destinations in the world.

Other celebrity nuptials that have taken place in Scotland include: Madonna and Guy Ritchie at Skibo Castle; Jennifer Connelly and Paul Bettany at Gilmerton House, East Lothian; Stella McCartney at Mount Stuart; Mark Owen at Cawdor Parish Church; Philip Schofield at Ackergill Tower, Caithness; Zara Phillips and Mike Tindall at Canongate Kirk, Edinburgh; and Kirsty Hume at Luss Parish Church.

Scotland is the most popular part of the UK for couples to marry in. According to the latest figures Scotland holds an average of 5.54 marriages per 1,000 of a population followed by the South West of England at 5.4 per 1,000.

Relaxed laws around marriage have helped draw people to marry in Scotland for more than 250 years.

Unlike in England and Wales where it is necessary to be resident in the country for a few days beforehand there is also no requirement for residency north of the border,

House of Turin

although couples must give at least a minimum of 15 days’ notice of their intentions. This makes Scotland an ideal location for couples who wish to fly in and out for the ceremony.

“Scotland’s appeal as a a romantic destination to get married and honeymoon is undeniable,” said Yvonne Corbett of the House of Turin, one of Scotland’s most exclusive historic wedding venues.

“We get a lot of inquiries from couples looking for a stylish location that is easy to bring guests to and offers all the luxury they want for their special day.

“The Outlander TV series especially has been a terrific boost recently with couples from China, the US and all over Europe. They like the whole romantic image of Scotland and want to get married in a place with a lot of history that fits with their dream of an elegant fairytale wedding.”

Originally built in 1659 as the manor

house for the Turin estate near Forfar, which was gifted to the Oliphant family by King James of Scotland, it was moved stone by stone from the loch side in 1907 to its current location.

The 10 bedroom mansion with spectacular views of the Angus Glens is located in the heart of Scotland between Edinburgh and Aberdeen making it easily accessible for visitors, especially those arriving from abroad.

“Scotland has an abundance of historic houses and romantic scenery which make for beautiful photographs when it comes to recording a couple’s very special day,” said Stewart Cunningham, a Glasgow-based photographer with more than 35 years experience who has photographed weddings all over the country.

“A lot of people from people come to Scotland to get married because they like the history and romanticism

Di Lv and Aixiang Jin Photo by Roddy McKenzie

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Photo by Destination Weddings Scotland

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of the mountains, lochs and glens. It has got to be one of the world’s best natural backdrops to any love story.”

According to international wedding planners increasing numbers of central Europeans consider Scotland as a romantic destination to get married, made all the easier by the internet as it allows them to plan their special day from a distance.

In addition, couples tend to stay in Scotland for six nights on average around their wedding date and can make up to three weekend visits in advance of the big day to make arrangements.

One of the biggest attractions for overseas couples is the ‘can-do’ attitude of many venues. which now cater for small private celebrations, large gatherings of family and friends or even festival weddings which take place over a number of days.

While most brides spend up to 18 months planning their big day one

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Highland venue were recently given just 10 days to organise a dream wedding for a visiting Chinese couple.

Di Lv and her fiancé Aixiang Jin from Shenzhen, south west China had set their hearts on exchanging their marital vows in the Highlands - even though neither had ever been there before.

House of Turin

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Just days before flying to Scotland Di they sent an email to Bogbain Farm, near Inverness, asking if it was possible to organise a wedding.

The couple chose to get married in Inverness because they had seen pictures of the area on the Internet and read about the beauty of Scotland.

“It didn’t leave us a lot of time but we

like a challenge. It seemed a shame to disappoint the couple when they had set their heart on a Scottish wedding,” said Jo De Sylva, Venue Manager.

“The first thing we did was contact our local suppliers to see if they could help they were all amazing. We arranged for a traditional handfasting ceremony, like the one seen in the

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movie Braveheart, and organised cakes, a piper, photographer and a traditional Scottish wedding breakfast.�

However, the whole thing was almost ruined when the bride and groom missed their connecting flight from London to Inverness and had to hire a car to drive 570 miles through the night, arriving just 30 minutes late.

The couple were greeted by a piper at Fort Augustus, where they underwent a civil ceremony,

Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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before travelling on to Bogbain for the traditional handfast ceremony in which the couples’ hands were loosely tied together with a piece of tartan to signify the binding together of two families.

They they sat down to a meal of venison, seafood and cranachan, prepared by local chef John Lochart.

“The bride specifically requested Scottish fayre and that’s what we gave them,” said John.

“We sourced some wild venison from Ardgay, mussels from Shetland and langoustines caught by a fisherman called Hamish off Kylesku.”

Musician and tv presenter Bruce McGregor, who owns Bogbain Farm, even serenaded the couple during their celebrations.

Di, a 33-year-old business development manager with a global consulting firm, and her new 31-yearold husband, who works as a sales manager for a biotechnology

company, were overwhelmed by the efforts of everyone involved in getting the wedding ready in so short a time.

“All the efforts made for making this wedding in Scotland happen turned out almost more important than getting married itself. It will be a funny story we can talk about when we get a lot older,” said Di. “There could be no better location more suitable for celebrating such a private but special moment.”

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Teenage Fanclub’s Francis Macdonald on the high notes of a portfolio career

by Paul Kelbie Pictures by Sarah Hodgetts

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f variety really is the spice of life then it’s little wonder Francis Macdonald is one of Scotland’s hottest musical entrepreneurs.

Drummer, record label boss, song writer, manager, university lecturer and classical music composer, you name it and the chances are he has done it – to widespread acclaim.

The Bellshill boy has come a long way since he started drumming on the arms of the family sofa with his mum’s knitting needles.

“I guess I’ve had what you would call a ‘portfolio career’,” said Francis.

“I’ve always done more than one thing but it’s all been generally music related.”

Largely self-taught the charismatic Glaswegian is probably one of Scotland’s most accomplished music entrepreneurs. There can hardly be anyone who has not come into contact with his work at some time.

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In addition to being the drummer for Teenage Fanclub he manages the groups Camera Obscura and The Vaselines. He is the man behind the Glasgow record label Shoeshine Records and was co-producer of albums by Aaron Wright, Attic Lights and Aaron Fyfe.

Other names he has worked with include Julie Fowlis, Alex Chilton, Kim Fowley, Robert Forster, Dan Penn, Edwyn Collins, Max Richter, Cairn Strin Quartet, Belle & Sebastian, Laura Cantrell, The Hermit Crabs, The Pastels, Radio Sweethearts, Michelle Shelley, Cheeky Monkey, Frank Blake, Speeder, Astro Chimp and BMX Bandits.

He has written music for film and television, including the BBC documentary Commonwealth City for the BBC; On Weir’s Way with David Hayman and Finding Scotland’s Real Heroes, both for STV; and Starlings for an independent production company.

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In March 2015 he released “Music For String Quartet, Piano And Celeste” to critical acclaim. The album was described by the radio station Classic FM as ‘sublime, minimalist classical music’. It debuted at Number 12 in the Official Classical Artists Album Chart and and Number 3 in the Official Specialist Classical Chart.

“It was something I had wanted to do for a while,” said Francis. “When people ask me why I did it I say it’s because nobody told me I couldn’t.

“Prior to doing the album I might have thought it was the sort of thing other people do. I’m not classically trained but I was inspired by the likes of Glasgow composer Malcolm Lindsay who is also a self taught classical composer.”

The youngest of five he admits his background wasn’t a musical one, although his family have always been very supportive.

“My mother was from South Uist and she sang at Ceilidhs. Gaelic was her first language and I remember her singing these mournful Gaelic songs in the kitchen on Sunday mornings.

Nobody else in my family was particularly musical.”

However, on 31 May 1979 something which happened which changed the then 8-year-old Francis’ life forever.

His sister took him to see the Police, supported by the Cramps, playing at The Apollo in Glasgow.

“I remember it clearly. I immediately became the world’s biggest Police fan, and then I became the world’s biggest fan of their drummer Stewart Copeland,” said Francis.

“I used play along to their records with knitting needles on the couch so my mum bought me a snare drum for my birthday.

“Luckily for me my mum liked a bargain. When she heard the school was offering free guitar lessons she offered to pay for drumming lessons

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It was therefore no surprise to anyone when in 1996 he set up Shoeshine Records, adding another talent to his rapidly expanding musical career portfolio. Among the many groups and artists he worked with he was instrumental in helping New York Country singer Laura Cantrell get her major break in the UK and Europe in 2000.

“I got sent a couple of her songs and I loved them so much I helped her finish her album and put it out. The response was fantastic. John Peel really went for it in a big way. He even said it was his favourite album of the last 10 years or even possibly his life.

“As a result of the exposure she built up a really big fan base and has never looked back,” said Francis.

“A while ago I was in Spain drumming for her in a couple of shows. I heard her husband telling a Spanish promoter than one of the cleverest things they had done was to go with a Glasgow record label instead of ‘doing that London thing’ and how it had really worked for them.”

More recently the 46-year-old has branched out into making music for film and television. It is an area he is keen to expand.

if I took up the guitar too.

“It was a good move on her part. It was good for me to learn another instrument as it made me a better musician.”

After leaving school Francis studied marketing at university rather than music but at a time when the independent scene was thriving in Glasgow there was plenty of opportunity to indulge his passion.

“There were a lot of bands in Glasgow then. I quickly became the

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guy people called when they needed a drummer,” said Francis.

By 1986 he had been asked to join the BMX Bandits and another band called the Boy Hairdressers which turned out to be the forerunner of Teenage Fan Club, the group he still plays with today.

Hanging around the music scene and playing with a variety of bands turned out to be great experience as Francis picked up valuable lessons on how records were produced and promoted.

“I’ve had a fairly good run of projects for STV, BBC, Sky and some independent production companies and it is something I really enjoy,” said Francis, who was behind the soundtrack for the rugby film Building Jerusalem, a documentary about how England won the Rugby World Cup against Australia in 2003.

“I think it is magical what music does to film, how it changes and illustrates the mood or highlights the drama. It is pretty special to be part of that.”

However, despite the international success Francis admits that, like many Scots, he sometimes has an issue with self-confidence.

“It’s a bit of a Scottish trait – not to get above yourself,” he said.

“I have a tendency to think other people are better at boasting. The truth is people respond well to confidence. They take confidence from confidence. When a performer comes on stage and acts like it’s their living room the audience will go with that and get behind him.

“I do have to check myself sometimes. Scots aren’t always good at accepting compliments.

We often just bat them away with a wave of the hand and say something like ‘Och no, it was nothing’ as if the other person is foolish for liking what we do.

“A female friend of mine once said to there is no bigger turn off than a guy saying to a girl ‘I’m not good enough for you’ or ‘you’re too good for me’.

That’s so true!

“We may all have these neurosis but if we just lie down and indulge them what sort of reaction are we going to get? It’s nuts and irrational. We have to learn it’s not shameful to be

successful and it’s not arrogant to accept a compliment.”

Despite working with a variety of international names and cross-border projects Francis is happiest working at home in Glasgow.

“There is so much happening in Scotland that I’ve never felt the need to do that thing of chucking in my lot and shooting off down to London,” said Francis.

“Technology means I don’t have

to be in the same room, let alone the same city or even country, as somebody I’m working with.

“I’m a city boy at heart. Glasgow may have its issues but most people are genuinely friendly. I like their humour and down-to-earth attitude. They break the ice with a joke, diffuse a situation with a bit of cheek and are happy to strike up a conversation with a stranger at a bus stop. These qualities are quite precious, we should recognise that and be proud.”

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A Fyne Life of luxury and adventure A

BLOT on the landscape created by the oil boom of the 1970s has been turned into a multi-million pound world-class tourist destination.

For more than 30 years the former Portavadie oil rig construction yard was little more than a memorial to industrial folly.

In 1975 the rural communities of Tighnabruaich, Kames and surrounding hamlets of Argyll were at the forefront of the race for oil in the North Sea. The UK government invested over ÂŁ14million pounds on a new construction yard for concrete drilling platforms opposite Tarbert on Lower Loch Fyne.

Unfortunately, after digging one of the biggest man-made holes in Scotland, the project was cancelled in 1978 before a single structure could be built and the site was abandoned along with the local community’s dreams of industrial prosperity.

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Now, several decades later and many millions of pounds of private investment the white-elephant has been tuned into a state-ofthe-art marina, complete with accommodation and leisure facilities.

It has been specifically designed to create a world-class destination for all varieties of out-door enthusiasts, ranging from anglers to ramblers and golfers to wildlife watchers.

The resort, incorporating an indoor swimming pool, outdoor spa pools, Scandinavian sauna, Precor equipped gym and the largest outdoor infinity pool in Scotland, has become a major holiday destination for sailing enthusiasts, walkers, cyclists and those who just want to relax.

The new leisure complex aims to offer the ultimate in relaxation, with therapeutic spa treatments, a hydro pool, steam room and a relaxation space, all with breathtaking floor to ceiling views across Loch Fyne to the Isle of Arran.

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“We have been on a journey of discovery in creating this world class Spa and Leisure Experience at Portavadie, driven by our passion to create something truly special for our guests to enjoy time and again,” said Iain Jurgensen, general manager.

“It is a wonderful light-filled, modern facility that brings something totally unique to the west coast of Scotland.

From the superb infinity pool to the tranquil relaxation spaces, we’re offering the ultimate in luxury and reward for our guests. I am proud to see it open at Portavadie and we look forward to welcoming our first guests.”

Sitting on the shore of Loch Fyne on Scotland’s west coast, Portavadie is a contemporary gem set amid stunning scenery. Surrounded by hills, lochs, forests and glens it is a haven of modern comfort with fivestar luxury apartments, self-catering cottages and the finest Scottish cuisine in loch-side restaurants and bars.

A range of activities are available including: mountain biking, walking, sailing, rib rides, kayaking or simply sitting and soaking up the scenery.

The first phase of 230-berth, deepwater, state-of-the-art Portavadie Marina complex and resort was officially opened by Jim Mather, former Minister for Enterprise, Energy and Tourism in 2009 to make the of a boom in sailing throughout Scotland. Marine leisure activities are now second only to golf in attracting revenue from tourism.

According to figures from VisitScotland golf attracts an estimated £300million a year to the national economy, closely followed by sailing and boating which brings in around £275million. Walking is said to be worth £240 million, mountaineering around £104 million and mountain biking £35 million.

Owners Portavadie Estates Ltd, part of the Loch Lomond Distillers Group, spent around £18million on

the first phase of the development, including the marina, restaurant, accommodation and luxury facilities.

The 12 metre deep lagoon, which is just one and a half hours from Glasgow by road and is situated directly east across Loch Fyne from the village of Tarbert, provides fully serviced berths for almost any size of leisure craft. There are also a variety of shore side benefits, including luxurious showers and toilets, a launderette, drying room and a number of self-catering family apartments and cottages for between two and eight persons.

picturesque scenery in the world and great care has been taken to preserve and enhance the environment.

The new facilities at the resort, which is already a gold star member of Green Toruism, have built using glass, steel, stone and neutral tones,

with the environment in mind sit is all powered by a woodchip biomass generator. “Portavadie is unlike any other marina, not just on the Clyde coast but beyond, throughout Britain,� said Brian Stewart of Stewart Associates, architects for the project.

The marina’s quality bar and restaurant, winner of the Benromach Nautical Restaurant and Bar of the Year 2009 at the Scottish Licensed Trade Awards, provides a wide menu of high quality delicacies, including Loch Fyne seafood, locally shot game and produce.

The 100 acres marine resort is situated among some of the most

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“We have tried to create something special, a landmark building which has more of a Mediterranean feel to it rather than a traditional British marina.

Europe, is very, very energy efficient.”

Wherever possible, local materials, suppliers and craftsmen have been used to create the show-piece development.

“The restaurant, offices, board room, function suites and high-level viewing terrace all overlook the marina in a series of interlinking glass and stone buildings which are extremely environmentally friendly.

“We’ve used a lot of local firms.

That’s part of our sustainability approach,” said Mr Stewart.

“The buildings are highly insulated and designed in such a way that they don’t need a lot of energy because it’s naturally lit and ventilated. The heating is all under floor and the LED lighting system, the first of its kind in

“It’s all very well trying to use as much local materials as you can but if you bring in contractors from far away then it’s not of great benefit to the local economy. We have tried to maintain as much of the construction and supply work within the Argyll area as possible.”

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ferry from the rest of the UK and Europe.

Wildlife enthusiasts may see red deer, otters, peregrine falcons, and a wonderful variety of seabirds and marine life including basking sharks, minke whales, seals, dolphins and porpoises.

“Portavadie is more than a marina.

The idea is to create a destination which will appeal all year round to walkers, mountain bikers, golfers, horse riders, fishermen, divers and wildlife watchers as well as sailors,” said Iain Jurgensen.

Much of the appeal of Portavadie is that it is designed to be a year round destination for all types of visitors, whether they want to stay for a few weeks or a few hours.

The Cowal Way is a 47 mile (75 Kilometres) walk, which starts at Portavadie pier and ends at Ardgarten on Loch Long.

Cowalfest, Scotland’s largest walking festival is now also a major arts festival with a 10 day long programme of walks, arts, cultural and social events that celebrate landscape and the natural world’s influence on creativity. Held in the Cowal Peninsula every autumn this West Highland destination is readily accessible by plane, train, car and

“Everybody is more than welcome to enjoy what nature has given us – a wonderful view. On a clear night the stars are absolutely stunning and seeing the sunset across the loch is phenomenal.

“It’s beautiful part of the world and somewhat of a wee secret gem.

There’s a lot of people who have still to discover what we have to offer.”

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Photo by Kim Phillips

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Chocs away!

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O the growing list of Scottish delicacies finding favour around the world, and adding to the country’s economic fortunes, can now be added… chocolate.

It’s not usually the first thing to spring to mind when thinking about the nation’s natural larder but there are now dozens of independent and artisanal chocolatiers thriving across the country from the borders to Shetland.

Although cocoa isn’t grown in Scotland the country is getting an internationally renowned reputation for the quality of its produce made from carefully sourced, fairly traded, good quality imported cocoa beans mixed with a variety of uniquely Scottish ingredients.

Made entirely by hand, the finest Scottish cream, butter, foraged berries, herbs, whisky and other liquors, including Scottish-made gin,

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can all be found in the final products created among the inspiration landscape of some of Scotland’s most dramatic locations.

Cocoa Mountain, set in the natural wilderness of Sutherland, hit the headlines when owners Paul Maden and James Findlay appeared on the television show Dragon’s Den looking for £80,000 investment, in return for 15 per cent of their company, to expand their range of luxury products.

Unfortunately, they didn’t get the result they were looking for and walked away empty handed because the multi-millionaire panelists thought a company based in the Highlands of Scotland was too remote to be successful. Durness was described as a ‘diabolical’ place to launch a business and it was even suggested they consider moving nearer to London.

However, the resulting publicity did

them no harm and the company saw orders soar by more than 35 per cent within six months and offers of investment came flooding in from as far away as Vietnam. New customers from across the UK, Tokyo, Argentina and the USA resulted in the company having to take on extra staff.

It’s a similar story with many other of Scotland’s new artisan chocolatiers, from the Aberdonian 17-year-old, Jamie Hutcheon, who launched his own chocolate firm Cocoa Ooze using family recipes to Perthshire’s Iain Burnett, ‘The Highland Chocolatier’, who took three years to perfect his award winning velvet truffle and has seen international exports soar in the last couple of years.

To celebrate Scotland’s booming chocolate industry restaurant booking website 5pm.co.uk is showcasing some of the country’s top chocolatiers in the Highlands, Isle of Mull, Edinburgh, Glasgow,

James Findlay of Cocoa Mountain Photos by Stewart Cunningham

Dumfries and Galloway and further afield.

dairy, wheat, gluten, soya, refined white sugar and anything artificial.

From the Aberdonian 17 year old who launched his own chocolate firm Cocoa Ooze using family recipes to Perthshire’s Iain Burnett ‘The Highland Chocolatier’ who took three years to perfect his award winning velvet truffle, each Scottish chocolate maker has a unique selling point and a tale to tell.

In a time where consumers are more aware than ever where ingredients come from, chocolatiers north of the border use small local producers to make their creations uniquely Scottish, such as Edinburgh’s Ocelot Chocolate and In House Chocolates from Dumfries and Galloway making chocolate flavoured with Hebridean sea salt.

Each one produces a unique taste of Scotland with flavours including chilli lemongrass truffle, Heather Rose Gin chocolate, Hebridean sea salt caramels and gin and tonic chocolate bars.

Some Scottish chocolate brands are even helping change the perception of chocolate as a guilty treat to a healthy superfood, such as Stirling’s iQ Chocolate and Edinburgh’s Decadently Pure, whose chocolate is made “bean to bar”, only contains natural ingredients, and is free from

“We love to champion Scottish food and drink and the treats created by the Scottish chocolatiers are a revelation. Our new Scottish Chocolate Box Infographic highlights the wealth and creativity of Scottish producers,” said Ronnie Somerville, founder of 5pm.co.uk.

“Scotland already has a tradition of artisan craft food producers who focus on high quality ingredients and Scottish chocolate creators are a reflection of that.”

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The making of a mountain man

Mick Tighe

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By Gerry McCann

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egendary mountain man Mick Tighe is known to thousands of Scotland’s hill walking and climbing community as something of a local hero, Tighe, who was last year named Mountain Culture Ambassador 2016, at the Fort William Mountain Festival is renowned as a mountain guide, mountain rescue expert and collector of mountain memorabilia.

His anointment as an Ambassador put him in the ranks of many other esteemed mountaineering giants.

Since the inauguration of the award in 2008, recipients have included Hamish Macinnes, Richard Else, Jimmy Marshall, Ian Sykes, Dr. Adam

Watson, Myrtle Simpson, Andy Nisbett, and Robin Cambell, all of whom are personally known to Mick.

Born in Derbyshire in 1950 Tighe worked on a farm till he was 17 but the call of adventure beckoned and he joined the Royal Marines, completing tours of duty in Singapore, Malaysia, and Northern Ireland. As a qualified instructor in Mountain and Arctic warfare, Tighe worked closely with Alpine troops and the French Foreign Legion, spending several winters in Arctic Norway at the spearhead of NATO’s Cold War military defence.

In all, his 10 years as a winter warrior served as an ideal apprenticeship

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to his becoming a British and international Mountain Guide in 1979 and his work as an instructor with the Joint Services Mountain Training Centre at Tulloch.

taking them climbing on sea cliffs on the islands. On the cliffs he has completed around one thousand first ascents, many in the company of clients.

In 1982 Mick started his own guiding business, Nevis Guides, and still leads clients on expeditions to Ben Nevis and Glencoe, as well as

Summer Alpine trips have continued over the past 35 years and the Canadian Rockies have also become a speciality. Cross country ski trips

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to Norway also continue to be a passion, and he has recently started a project to ski as many of the Munros as he can.

The former marine who lives just up the road from the Commando Memorial in Glen Roy has also been on call pretty much continuously as a member of the Lochaber Mountain

Rescue Team. Indeed, he has built up such expertise in the role that he was the National Training officer for all of Scotland’s mountain rescue teams for 10 years. An unknown number of walkers and climbers owe their lives to his skills, and passion for saving those in trouble. He is also wellknown for getting less able people with disabilities up the Big Bad Ben,

even arranging helicopter back-up.

Mick Tighe is a versatile man with insatiable curiosity which has remained with him since the day he started his climbing career.

mountaineering gear somewhere back in the midsts of time, and the project enhanced my career as a mountain guide,” said Mick, whose collection has grown at a rate of knots akin to a Ben Nevis storm.

“Not wishing to buck the national trend and coming from good Irish tinker stock, I started collecting

Mick is aware of the social history aspect of what is now the Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection.

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“The gentleman mountaineer of the late 1800s, with his rich portmanteau, gave way to the working class folk of the 1920s, who were able to access the hills courtesy of strange inventions such as the bicycle, and to cook meals on, a Primus stove rather than an open fire,” said Mick.

Vintage Optimus Stove

“They would buy old military gear if they could afford to, or make their own if they couldn’t. A similar era ensued after World War Two, and each of these eras has left a legacy of equipment and literature which we now collect, if you like, as the antiques of the mountaineer. It ‘s become a personal scrum of junk .Pungent Optimus stove aromas would assault the nostrils when the door was opened and a wrong move could trigger an avalanche of wooden skis, old ice-axes and rucksacks.”

Along the way there have been acquisitions of real gems. The SMHC houses the precious altimeter of Harold Raeburn, regarded by many as the father of Scottish mountaineering.

Original nailed boots

Writing desk of Dr. Tom Patey

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There are also the tricouni nailed boots of the famous guide book writer Walter Arthur Poucher, though not the gold lammy gloves or eyeliner the eccentric perfumier was reputed to wear on the hill. Another find is the writing desk of the Ullapool GP and climbing pioneer Tom Patey, which for reasons unclear, was on its way to a skip.

A few years ago some Heritage Lottery money was awarded to the SMHC for its contents to be archived and catalogued and this depended on it becoming a charity. In a slightly surreal episode Mick, by now the chairman of trustees had to write a letter to himself, thereby handing over the collection to himself, and this at a stage in which no-one actually knew what the collection contained. The money ran out in 2010 though donations continue today, but there is a proviso that the volunteers at the collection cannot value items.

Vintage skis

Ben Ime

On presenting Mick Tighe with the Mountain Culture Ambassador for 2016 for a raft of achievements over many decades in the mountains.

Mike Pescod of the Highland Mountain Culture Association, said: “Mick embodies the spirit of mountaineering perfectly, from its slightly rebellious side to its cultural side.

“Mick has dedicated his life to mountaineering and has helped others to do so as well. It was Mick who first came to rescue me after an accident 11 years ago, so it is on a very personal level that I am delighted he received the award.”

Mick is known as irreverent and epitomises the rebel to the point where one wag has said, “the next time he’s hanging off a cliff he’ll be in a gibbet.” But he is also a sensitive man, being a member of a local poetry club. He lives with his wife Kathy, a doctor in Fort William and can be reticent about other experiences. It takes a bit of teasing out to get his tales from film sets where he works as safety advisor, but these anecdotes include, attaching a harness to Michelle Pfeifer and the Hoff on Skye, and taking Lauren Bacall for a hill walk.

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Smokin’ Hot Blazin’ Fiddles p56

Photo by Annie Tuite

by Jo de Sylva

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fter more than 20 years in the musical spotlight, and having played some of the biggest venues in the world including the Albert Hall and Buckingham Palace, you still can’t wipe the smile from Bruce MacGregor’s face.

We’re back stage at the Glasgow Barrowlands, where Blazin Fiddles have just come off stage after playing to a sold out crowd of over 2000 people. After a phenomenal sell-out UK tour of last year, there seems no shortage of fans both old and new who are still mesmerised by this fiercely talented group of musicians.

Often described as the Fiddle Supergroup, Blazin Fiddles originally formed in 1998 following a trip to the Valley of the Moon in California for a BBC Radio documentary. While Bruce was interviewing people at the Scottish American fiddle school he discovered a lot of people believed Scottish fiddle music was dead.

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Bruce MacGregor

On his return from the States, Bruce felt the forthcoming Highland Festival was a good time to showcase the distinct regional fiddle styles of the Highlands and Islands. He decided he wanted young fiddlers who had a connection with the traditional tunes of Scotland and there ability to push the boundaries. This led to the original line-up of Bruce, Duncan Chisholm, Aidan O’Rourke, Catriona Macdonald, Iain MacFarlane, Alan Henderson and Marc Clement.

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“We were never meant to be a band.

We were just a group of fiddler showcasing our different styles,” said Bruce.

However, the reaction after the first gig was way beyond their expectations and it was clear they had the potential to be something special.

Within the first year the band played on the main stage of The Cambridge Folk Festival, something many folk

and traditional musicians can only aspire to, and within six months they were invited to the ‘Fiddles of the World International Fiddle Festival’, where they represented Scotland.

“I felt like this was the most exciting band in Scotland I could possibly have been involved in,” said Bruce.

The hugely successful sold out ‘Strings Attached’ tour with Eddi Reader, Justin Currie, and Colin Mackintyre brought the band to a

new audience, and was one of the first Celtic Connection concerts that fused pop and traditional music.

However, as with many bands, after 10 years changes were round the corner.

“I think it was just a natural progression,” said Bruce. “I think bands have their ‘time’ for producing great music and we’d had a very special decade . Things probably

got a bit stale and people’s focus changed over the years. To be honest I was pretty close to calling it a day myself but chatting to a few of the band made me realise what an amazing thing we had, and that perhaps there was another way forward” said Bruce.

These changes gave Bruce the opportunity to start looking for new band members that encapsulated vibrancy and passion, and who also

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Anna Massie

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had good ideas about where the band could go both musically and as a brand.

First up was Anna Massie and Angus Lyon on guitar and piano.

“You couldn’t get a better rhythm section. They drive the music with a power that makes it sound like we have a full rhythm section of drums and bass. They are incredible musicians and brilliant in their ideas for arrangement. Anna is one if the most sought after musicians in the country and Angus is really making a name for himself as a record

producer and arranger,” said Bruce.

With Jenna Reid on fiddle the next task was to complete the line up with another two fiddlers.

Bruce felt they had to be Highlands and Islands based in terms of their style. They had to have a real musical pedigree and depth of tradition to their music but, most importantly, they also had to be good craic.

Kristan Harvey and Rua MacMillan fitted the bill perfectly.

“The amazing thing about the band just now is the quality of musicianship and professionalism,”

said Bruce. “They’ve all come through music courses at university and because of this they are far more advanced than me in terms of reading, writing and arranging music - I feel quite daunted in rehearsals alongside them to be honest.

“The Uni courses are brilliant for developing those skills and it’s then up to the musician to take those skills and develop their own sound. Thats what the guys in Blazin Fiddles have done. We actually have three BBC Radio Scotland Young Traditional Musician of the Year award winners in Anna, Rua and Kristan. That’s quite amazing!”

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Angus Lyon

With the current line up of Blazin Fiddles making it’s mark, and fiddle music continues to evolve Bruce does have some concerns.

“Some folks are growing up just listening to the more modern types of tunes - these are great but I would always hope that a player had the depth of the tradition. To evolve it’s vital to have sound roots. It’s so easy to start adding in all sorts of world influences into the music because these influences are so readily accessible on the internet.

While assimilating some of these we

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have to be careful we don’t lose what makes Scottish music different and unique”.

The band are in the middle of recording their new album and are very much looking forward to hearing the final recording. “It’s a long process’ Says Bruce. “There is a huge amount of preparation and rehearsal, and putting the sets together can take quite a lot of time.

We have to make sure the music works. It’s about finding both old and new tunes that work well together and flow”.

“This changing Room hasn’t changed in seven years since we first played here” says Bruce of the Barrowlands backstage.

And while the line up of the band may have changed, there is no doubt the music and enthusiasm of the band continues to enthral and captivate audiences across across the world.

Blazin Fiddles new album provisionally called ‘The Key’ will be available from the Blazin fiddles website and from retailers.

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Comfort and joy

Achmelvich Beach Youth Hostel Photos by SYHA

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F

or the best part of a century the Scottish Youth Hostel Association has provided a home from home for tens of thousands of ramblers, hillwalkers and explorers.

It was born out of the countryside movements of the 1920s and 1930s when the concept of a holiday in the fresh air with freedom to roam was beyond the reach of most ordinary people.

In 1939 journalist and broadcaster Alastair Borthwick paid tribute to the hostel movement in his book ‘Always a little further’.

He wrote: “On many weekends, I went to those youth hostels which lay within easy reach of Glasgow — I liked the people who lived in that world.

“It was a young world, governed by the young. The youth hostel

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Glen Affric

movement is one of the most important social innovations of this century and there appeared to be no class of society to whom the appeal of the hostels did not extend. “So to my mind it was, and still is, the greatest library of ideas and human experience in Scotland�.

Decades later the ideals of the moment are still much the same - to provide an unrivalled service to walkers, climbers and cyclists, and a haven for children and adults to experience the wonders that Scotland has to offer.

Despite the abundance of budget airlines and ease of travel to exotic climes Scotland remains an attractive destination for UK and overseas visitors to de-stress and unwind.

And, thanks to the SYHA even the most cost conscious traveller can explore some of the most spectacular scenery in the world in comfort.

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Glasgow SYHA

This year marks the 86th anniversary of the formation of the SYHA on 13 February 1931 and the opening of Scotland’s very first youth hostel, Broadmeadows. A converted mansion in the Borders it became the pilot for a network of hostels across the country.

Although there are now just 36 hostels, much less than the 100 or so that existed up until the 1960s, the degree of comfort provided for the association’s registered 30,000 members and 500,000 plus overnight guests it caters for each year has improved tremendously. Gone are the days of basic barrack room bunkbeds, strict rules, hostel duties and dour, disciplinarian wardens.

infrastructure and amenities. That’s why the SYHA remains a not-forprofit, self-funding charity which re-invests all profits into the network to maintain properties for future generations.

Last year saw record investment in facilities to improve guest comfort and an increase in the availability of affordable private rooms, particularly in Glasgow, Inverness, Stirling and Aberdeen.

The SYHA maintains a variety of hostels in some stunning locations, from the heart of Scotland’s most vibrant cities to the romantic seclusion of island, mountain or lochside setting, catering for the 70 per cent or more of visitors who come from outside the UK.

Support of youth hostelling in Scotland achieved over 350,000 overnights in 2015, a 6 per cent increase in occupancy across the range of hostels.

Many of these locations play a starring role in an expansion of the association’s marketing plans to further encourage individuals, families, friends and groups, to explore and learn what Scotland has to offer - particularly in youth and education, natural heritage and culture, outdoor recreation, sports and activities sectors.

As part of our 2013-18 Sustainable Development Strategy, the organisation has been committed to improving guest facilities across the network by making more private rooms available as well as enhancing comfort by re-decoration, renewing beds, showers, washrooms and catering facilities.

Loch Ossian, for example, is a superb base from which to explore the remote wilderness of Rannoch Moor. The youth hostel can only be reached on foot via a one-mile track from Corrour Station, Scotland’s remotest railway station made famous for its appearance in the film Trainspotting.

Each hostel is now equipped with good quality furniture, en-suite facilities, self-catering kitchens and internet access along with a range of room sizes to suit couples, families and smaller groups.

Operating in a very competitive national and international youth tourism and budget accommodation market, the SYHA is acutely aware of rising guest expectations in terms of quality, service, value for money and environmental awareness - all SYHA youth hostels participate in the Green Business Tourism Scheme. All of this requires ongoing capital investment to modernise

Loch Ossian

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Glen Affric

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Then there is the former stalking bothy in Glen Affric. This youth hostel is an eight-mile walk or cycle from the nearest road but those who make the effort are rewarded with 15 Munros right on the doorstep and incredible opportunities to spot wildlife.

The SYHA is committed to maintaining easy access to a range of outdoor activites, including guided mountain walking tours, sea kayaking adventures, photography, tai chi, wildlife and conservation courses. There is something for everyone. Six hostels - Cairngorm Lodge, Torridon, Durness, Glencoe, Braemar and Lochranza - even accept guests with dogs.

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Mark Taggart - Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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Teaching the world one click at a time

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hile most people do their business planning around a board table or over a cup of coffee e-learning pioneer Mark Taggart usually gets his best ideas while hang-gliding or kite-surfing off Troon beach.

The Glasgow-based technology entrepreneur is on a mission to help everyone work smarter so they can enjoy a rewarding work-life balance.

It is a mantra often quoted by many but achieved by far fewer.

“My biggest and best deals and my most creative thinking doesn’t happen in the conventional 9-5 environment. It happens in a popup office on the beach, while I’m on a bike, kite-surfing or going cross country on a paraglider,” said the adventurous father of three who

maintains that plenty of time to decompress and spend quality time with family and friends is a key ingredient for success.

“If you can be disciplined and learn the art of working smart to achieve the right life balance between work and play it is amazing how more invigorated and innovative you can be.”

Despite the advent of wireless technology, smart phones and personal laptop computers with more power than NASA had to land men on the moon valuable time and resources are wasted every day by businesses and individuals trying to learn how to be more productive and improve skills.

Only in the last few year has e-learning stared to become mainstream. It is now a multi-million

pound international industry worth more than £565million a year to the UK economy alone.

According to a report by the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development (CIPD) around 74 per cent of companies now use some level of e-learning with 91 per cent of those claiming it a success, especially when in combination with other teaching methods.

E-learning can be a highly costeffective and efficient way for organisations to improve the quality and quantity of training their workforce.

In addition to lower delivery costs and improved environmental savings a system which allows participants to take courses at their own pace, in their own surroundings and at their own convenience can cut learning

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time by up to 50 per cent.

British Telecom, for example, switched from classroom training to e-learning and managed to cut their bill for training 23,000 employees from £17.8million to £5.9million and reduced the time taken from five years to three months.

A similar study of multinational audit firm Ernst & Young’s switch to online learning recored a cut is costs of 35 per cent as the company condensed 2,900 hours of classroom training into 700 hours of web-based learning, complimented with 200 hours of distance learning and 500 hours of classroom instruction.

However, while the rapid growth of the sector has been put down to an almost insatiable demand for knowledge management many existing online learning platforms have had their limitations.

“I had seen how difficult some of the existing e-learning platforms

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were as far as enrolling or setting up courses so I knew I could do better,” said Mark who has a background working with technology innovation companies going back more than 15 years.

In 2010 he had set up a company called Patient Reminders which developed a novel cloud-based messaging and alert system for the clinical trials industry. It was a major success. Within 18 months of going live the company was acquired by a US technology company and that provided seed funding for his latest project - Create eLearning, a unique

online Learning Management System (LMS) platform for instructors, organisations and freelancers.

“Online training has driven me nuts with it’s complexity and cost since 2001. I wanted to change that. Our platform makes it easy for businesses and individuals to create new courses, find readymade existing ones or hire talented freelances and content creators to collaborate with,” said Mark whose vision, enthusiasm and an infectious energy has helped put the company on a meteoric rise to success.

“Our job is to make the technology as simple as possible so it’s really easy to build courses and for people to take them.

“For those who don’t have the time or feel confident to build their own courses our platform brings together freelances and creatives who can help “Because we have come at it from a different angle and have taken time to look at it from the point of view of users we are growing fast and attracting attention from across the UK and abroad. We can barely cope

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with demand. The sales pipeline shot from zero to just under £500,000 worth of opportunities in under five weeks.

“We now have small sales offices in New York, San Francisco and Raglan, New Zealand which we are starting to build.”

Mark, who was born in Aldershot, Hampshire, moved to Scotland in 2007 to work in the renewable energy sector and fell in love with the place.

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“I was incredibly lucky in that I ended up living in Glasgow which was only a sort drive away from Troon so i could finish work and be on fantastic beaches kitesurfing throughout the long summer evenings,” said Mark.

“Glasgow is the finest city on the planet. It’s got everything - a great nightlife, fine dining and the friendliest people. I’ve been to quite a few cities around the world but

Glasgow beats them all.

“I wouldn’t go anywhere else now to build a business. Scotland is a great place to create something and launch it onto a global marketplace.

The availability of office space, good motivated staff and the constructive help on offer from the likes of Scottish enterprise, Entrepreneurial Spark and Global Scots is fantastic.”

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Photos Gerry McCann

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Pedaling Scotland to the world I

t’s true! When the going gets tough some of the toughest bikers in the world really do get going - straight to Scotland

More than 900 contestants, ranging from 11 to 77, took part in this year’s Strathpuffer, a gruelling 24-hour offroad race through the Highlands of Scotland.

Freezing fog, below zero temperatures and challenging terrain set the scene this year for one of the most arduous winter adventure

challenges to be found anywhere on the planet.

First initiated back in 2005, the annual event held near Strathpeffer, Ross-shire is now considered as of the world’s toughest mountain bike races.

Despite the lack of snow or driving rain competitors from across the UK and beyond were still pushed to their limits this year as they raced round a seven mile circuit through Torrachilty Wood.

Technical riding skills were tested to the max as many riders battled to stay upright on icy sections of the course where temperatures fell as low as -4c.

With the potential of black ice and slick slabs lurking around every corner, concentration levels were key to maintaining traction in some of the toughest riding conditions seen in recent years.

The first few laps were fast and furious but when night fell, the

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2017 ‘Puffer became a matter of slippery survival. A tricky 17 hours of darkness, and many spills later, gave way to a beautiful Highland sunrise and breathed new life into the riders.

For third year running overall winner of the 2017 Strathpuffer was Lothian athlete Keith Forsyth who managed to complete a total of 30 laps in 23 hours, 55 minutes and 53 seconds.

When the race finally came to a finish at 10am the next day exhausted, elated and relieved competitors could all be satisfied they had achieved something quite extraordinary, a new record for the total number of laps ridden at the ‘Puffer. An incredible 6,583 laps in total. That’s nearly twice around the world!

Winner of the female category was Emily Chapell from Wales who managed 23 laps in 23 hours, 33 minutes and 56 seconds.

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“Scotland is the perfect stage for mountain biking, and once again the Strathpuffer put riders through an incredible test of endurance as they competed on the Scottish

Highland’s stunning, yet challenging terrain,” said Stuart Turner, Head of EventScotland.

The Strathpuffer is just one of a number of off-road events which has helped establish Scotland as a world-class destination for cycling enthusiasts of all levels.

Road cycling and mountain biking trips by domestic visitors alone over the contribute on average £114 million to the Scottish economy.

An estimated 284,000 road cycling

and 191,000 mountain biking trips are across the country each year, with visitors staying more than 2 million nights and spending £123 million in the process.

Scotland’s relationship with the bicycle goes back a long way - to the birth of the bike.

It was blacksmith Kirk Patrick Macmillan (1812-1878) from Keir, Dumfries and Galloway who invented rear-wheel driver pedal cycle.

His invention, consisting of a wooden

frame and iron-edge wooden wheels, meant he could cover the 14 miles from his home Dumfries in less than an hour, and he could cover the 68 mile journey to Glasgow in just two days, a major improvement on travel times of the day.

Macmillan’s legacy is in part kept alive by the drive to attract more bikers to the country by VisitScotland, the national tourism organisation.

The organisation even launched the Cyclist Welcome Scheme, part of its

quality assurance awards, with more than 1,100 establishments across the country signed up.

Such is Scotland’s international reputation as a cycling destination the Fort William Mountain Bike World Cup in the Scottish Highlands was recently declared the best in the world.

The 2016 annual competition, the 15th since it was launched in Scotland’s outdoor capital in 2001, was voted the Best Downhill World Cup event by cycling’s international

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governing body, the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI), following a record-breaking year for downhill racing in Scotland.

Almost 22,000 fans witnessed Great Britain’s Rachel Atherton and South Africa’s Greg Minnaar win the women’s and men’s events last June in what has been described by many as one of the most memorable downhill world cups in the sport’s history.

Organisers Rare Management are now gearing up for the 2017 scheduled to take place over two days, 3-4 June.

Event organiser, Mike Jardine from Rare Management, said: “We’re absolutely thrilled to have won international recognition as the UCI’s Best World Cup event for 2016. This accolade is a huge boost to the event’s profile as we launch Early Bird ticket sales for the 2017 World Cup, and it cements Scotland and the Highland’s world-class reputation and status as a bike-friendly destination for visitors from across the globe.

“The award is testament to the hard work of all of our partners, sponsors, riders, volunteers and fans who continue to make this event a truly legendary and unique experience for all the family.”

Supported by EventScotland and the Highland Council, it’s the 10th time the event has won the Best Downhill World Cup award. In total it has won 29 UK and International awards since 2002.

Taking place at the Nevis Range ski area, 9km from Fort William, it is regarded a must-see event on the Scottish sporting calendar and continues to bring a huge financial boost to Highland tourism delivering an estimated £33m to the economy since 2002.

“It’s great to see that the accolades just keep coming for the UCI

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Mountain Bike World Cup in Fort William, which has undoubtedly been one of the leading events to take place in Scotland for a number of years,” said Stuart Turner, Head of EventScotland.

“Its selection as the Downhill World Cup of the Year, as well as its induction to the Scottish Mountain Biking Hall of Fame, is indicative of

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its popularity among the mountain biking fraternity and the general public.”

Highland Council has supported the event from the beginning and the local area has reaped the rewards, both financially and personally.

“It’s been an inspiration to local kids who have since gone on to

become some of the top riders in similar events across the world,” said Councillor Thomas MacLennan, Leader of the Lochaber Committee.

“The team do a terrific job in not only maximising the economic benefits to local businesses but also raising the profile of the sport. As the crowds grow bigger each year, so too does the reputation of the whole Lochaber

area. Mountain bike enthusiasts of all abilities visit our forest trails year round and relish the chance to compare how the world’s best tackle the purpose built courses they ride.”

The popularity of cycling even led to the creation of the Edinburgh Festival of Cycling, which this years takes place between the 8th and 18th June. Now gearing up for is fifth year

the festival incorporates film shows, drama, art, talks and numerous cycling events over 10 days with visitors from as far as Italy, Germany and Norway. Some have even been known to cycle to Edinburgh from London to take part.

The growing interest in Scotland as a holiday destination for cyclists has inspired a number of new

businesses, such as Edinburgh Bike Tours.

Entrepreneur Kathy Jarvis was inspired to set up the company after almost 20 years running adventure tours in South America where she saw bike tours readily available.

The Leith-based company organises tours that take in stunning attractions

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both in and around the city with one of the most popular passing the Water of Leith, the New Town, Edinburgh Castle and North Bridge.

Following increased interest in longer tailored trips through Scotland from visitors as far flung as South America, USA and Australia, Edinburgh Bike Tours has expanded to the Highlands following a team-up with Inverness-based cycle guide, Caroline Williams.

“Scotland has to be one of the best countries in the world for cycling,” said Kathy. “ The scenery is stunning and we have a lot of superb cycle paths and very quiet roads and an increasing array of options for off-road riding. The tea and cake is also excellent!”

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Haunting mystery of what really happened to Helen Duncan

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ampaigners looking to overturn the conviction of the last woman to be jailed for witchcraft in Britain are pinning their hopes on the precedent set by a World War II codebreaker.

Celebrated medium Helen Duncan was jailed for witchcraft in 1944 for raising the spirits of the dead after a show trial at the Old Bailey just months before the D-Day landings.

Supporters of the former housewife and mother of six from Callander claim she was set up by the security services in an attempt to prevent her revealing secrets of the Normandy landings before they took place.

Duncan, who died in December 1956, never fully recovered from the nine-month prison term she was sentenced to under an antiquated 200- year-old law and has since been hailed as spiritualism’s greatest heroine and martyr.

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Helen Duncan

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After years of compiling evidence to show her trial at the Old Bailey was unfair campaigners are now working on new moves to have her case reviewed again.

Campaigners for Helen Duncan are now calling for her to be pardoned too as the legislation used to imprison the medium has similarly been repealed.

Because Duncan had taken an admission fee from people attending her seance she was also charged with taking money under false pretences.

They are seeking a posthumous pardon, especially as they claim there is evidence she may have been the victim of a plot involving British intelligence agents including James Bond creator Ian Fleming.

The campaign to exonerate Duncan has attracted global support with more than 20 million people from as far afield as China, Taiwan, Russia, North Korea, Iraq, Iran and Iceland logging on to its website.

Now, following the the introduction of ‘Turing’s Law’, which saw the WWII code-breaker given a posthumous pardon by Her Majesty the Queen in 2013 for breaking a law which had since been repealed, Duncan’s supporters have new hope.

Throughout the 1930s and 1940s, Duncan travelled the country giving seances. During the war women sought reassurance about their men.

During a sitting in 1941, Duncan was apparently in contact with a dead sailor who greeted his mother.

After a seven-day trial, involving scores of witnesses and mentions of some 1,733 manifestations of which just seven were challenged, she was found guilty under the Witchcraft Act but innocent of all other charges. Her right to appeal to the House of Lords was withheld

Alan Turing was found guilty of gross indecency in 1952 for being gay and subsequently committed suicide.

His mother had not known he was dead because the Admiralty had concealed the news of the sinking of his warship, HMS Barham, for security reasons.

However, since the law on homosexuality has been changed

As a ‘materialisation medium’, which involved her going into a trance and producing ‘ectoplasm’ through which spirits would take on earthly features to communicate with the living, Duncan built a reputation as one of spiritualism’s greatest heroines.

“We want to clear her name,” said Graham Hewitt, Assistant General Secretary of the Spiritualists’ National Union, and the man now

HMS Barham

UK Justice Minister Sam Gyimah announced in October 2016 that thousands of gay and bisexual men convicted under abolished sexual offences could now be posthumously pardoned in the wake of Turing’s case.

Duncan was arrested and accused of vagrancy but the charge was later changed to conspiracy, a hanging offence in wartime. However, when the case eventually went to court she was formally accused of “contravening the Witchcraft Act of 1735” .

spearheading a campaign to clear Duncan’s name.

Mr Hewitt, a former Solicitor Advocate, is convinced she was silenced as part of an operation to keep the D-Day invasion secret.

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HMS Hood

Mr Hewitt, a former solicitor advocate, said previous submissions to the Criminal Cases Review Commission had been rejected on the grounds that it ‘is not in the public interest to reopen this trial’.

“We want to get this case reexamined. There is ample evidence that the defence counsel handled the court case very badly and that Helen Duncan had been set up by members of the security services acting as agent provocateurs.

“Every time I look into this case I get more information,” said Mr Hewitt.

“I went to a spiritualist church in Cambridge one evening and I heard a woman talking to a medium saying her father had been on HMS Hood and he went AWOL when it sailed.

“She said her father had jumped ship because had had gone to a Helen Duncan seance in Edinburgh where his dead father had came through and warned him that if he went out with the Hood on its next trip he would not return.

“He was later caught by the military authorities just after the Hood had sank and told them what had happened. He was promptly given a turn in jankers and then allocated to submarines, but he survived the war.”

HMS Hood was sunk by the German battleship Bismarck in May 1941.

Only three men survived out of a ship’s company of 1,418.

Although not direct evidence Mr

Hewitt claims it suggests the authorities would have been aware of Helen Duncan’s activities and may well have been alarmed by them.

He claims that in the run up to D-Day Portsmouth was closed to all but military personnel, local residents and their relatives, clerics and doctors visiting the sick and injured.

“Why was Helen Duncan allowed to visit? She did not come under any of those classifications. I think it was because they were watching out for her, if she was going to do a demonstration they wanted to catch her in the act so she could be incarcerated.”

At a time when the military authorities were anxious to keep plans of the

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Allied invasion of occupied France secret, Duncan and other psychics were seen as a potential threat to security.

According to Leslie Price, of the College of Psychic Studies where Helen was tested in 1931, the published diaries of former spy chief Guy Liddell confirm the security services had begun investigating Duncan in December 1941, little more than six months after the sinking of HMS Hood.

Indeed, interest in Helen Duncan by the security services went as far back as 1931 when Major, later Brigadier, Firebrace of Military Intelligence and Oliver Villiers from the Air Ministry, who was involved with R101 airship case, both attended her seances.

In January 1944 an opportunity presented itself when Helen was invited to Portsmouth by a local church to demonstrate her abilities of spiritual materialisation.

Materialising ectoplasm

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Almost immediately another seance was arranged for 19 January where undercover members of the security services and police were in the audience. On a pre-arranged signal they raided the event and Duncan, along with three members of the audience, were arrested.

“In the run-up to D-Day, the authorities were paranoid about potential security leaks and Duncan was in danger of disclosing military secrets during her seances,” said Robert Hartley, an academic and author of the book ‘Helen Duncan: The Mystery Show Trial’

MI6 London

Based on trial documents released to the National Archive and other research Hartley claims there is evidence to point to a state conspiracy to crack down on security leaks ahead of D-Day by making an example of Duncan.

“Helen Duncan was giving out very accurate information. There were other mediums round the country giving out news on soldiers that had died and someone in authority took it seriously, whatever the source of the information. D-Day was coming up and it was absolutely essential to keep the Allied deception plans intact.”

Hartley believes among those responsible for the conspiracy to convict Duncan was Ian Fleming, a key figure in the naval intelligence services, and John Maude, the prosecuting counsel at the trial who also had connections with the security services. “‘I am convinced naval intelligence were working with MI5, and when I began looking at that connection Ian Fleming’s name kept cropping up as being involved with people

either involved in the case or on the sidelines,” said Mr Hartley.

“It seems clear to me that the security services conspired to imprison Helen Duncan as part of the tight security operation undertaken in the run-up to D-Day. It was the Admiralty’s view that she posed a security risk that needed to be dealt with.”

That view is somewhat reinforced by the fact that, despite popular legend, Duncan was not the last person in Britain to be prosecuted for witchcraft before the act was repealed in 1951. That dubious honour was given to Jane York, 72, from Forest Gate, east London. In September 1944, three months after the D-Day invasion, she was charged with seven counts of pretending to conjure up spirits of the dead.

While Duncan had been imprisoned on one charge York was bound over to be of good behaviour for three years and fined just £5.

“I have no doubt in my mind that my grandmother was set up,” said Margaret Hahn, who has been

campaigning for more than 30 years to clear her grandmother’s name. and ensure her place in the annals of spiritualism history for all the right reasons.

Over the years Ms Hahn has travelled extensively to research and gain support for her grandmother’s work and is now involved in developing the Helen Duncan Foundation which has a petition page on its website at www.helenduncan.org.

“I would like nothing more than to clear my grandmother’s name. When I got into this I thought let the cards fall where they may. If she was a fraud I can accept that and if she was genuine then that is fantastic,” said Ms Hahn from her home in Tennessee, USA. “I have contacted so many people she helped. I have letters from people testifying that what they saw was real. I am convinced she was genuine. She really lived her life being of service to others, she had a really good heart. She was a terrific medium and I want to get my grandmother’s story out there.”

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Amenhotep II box and fragments - Photos by National Museaum Scotland

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Rescuers of the lost past

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rare ancient Egyptian box built for a Pharaoh more than 3,000 years ago, but which lay fragmented in Scottish museum for over a century, has been pieced together.

After the recent recovery of two missing parts experts from the National Museum of Scotland have managed to solve some of the mystery surrounding its origins.

Described as one of the finest examples of decorative woodwork to survive from ancient Egypt it is believed to have been created around 1427–1400 BC for Pharaoh Amenhotep II. Although it has been in National Museums Scotland’s collections for 160 years, it was discovered in a fragmentary state with a portion of it missing - until now.

The decoration on one of the newly recovered fragments features a motif representing the façade of the royal palace, tying in with the rich royal symbolism on the box, and confirming the object’s royal associations.

Furthermore, where the decoration of the box differs from that of the fragments, it reveals that the part of the box was incorrectly restored in the mid-20th century.

Dr Margaret Maitland, Senior Curator, Ancient Mediterranean at National Museums Scotland said: “We are delighted to have the opportunity to reunite these fragments with our

Dr. Margaret Maitlnad

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spectacular box, which is one of the great treasures from our ancient Egyptian collections. Palace objects from ancient Egypt are extremely rare, so it’s very exciting for us to be able to confirm this object’s royal connections. Not only does the acquisition of the fragments fill a literal gap in the box, it fills gaps in our understanding of its story.”

Made from cedar, ebony, ivory and gold, the box was made during the reign of the Pharaoh Amenhotep II, who ruled ancient Egypt during the 18th Dynasty (around 1427–1400 BC). The exotic materials come from different areas of the ancient Mediterranean, signifying the extent of the king’s empire and its wealth.

The box is a much more elaborate version of the types of wooden containers often found in ancient Egyptian tombs, other examples of which are in National Museums Scotland’s collections. It was probably used in the royal palace to hold cosmetics or expensive

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perfumes and likely belonged to a member of the king’s family, most probably one of his granddaughters.

Evidence suggests that the box was originally excavated in a tomb belonging to a group of ten princesses, including daughters of Pharaoh Thutmose IV (c. 1400–1390 BC), the son of Pharaoh Amenhotep II. The main figure depicted on the box is a protective god and household guardian known as Bes, who is depicted as a dwarf with lion-like features. In ancient Egypt, dwarfs were thought to be emblematic of good fortune. His protective role is evident from his rather fearsome appearance, which was intended to scare off potential dangers and evil spirits.

The box and fragments will go on display in a new exhibition, The Tomb: Ancient Egyptian Burial, which opens at the National Museum of Scotland on 31 March.

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