Scotland Correspondent Issue 41

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History and beauty of the Cairngorms Dirty tricks and the fiddler’s farewell The restless plague doctor

A whisky cocktail for goddesses Natural solutions and cosmetic creations Commemorating Prestonpans p1


May 2020

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K eepin g t he f la g f lying

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Index - Inside this issue

inside this issue 12 Exploring

the Cairngorms via the NE250 - Part Two

24 Enjoying

the views from home

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the Battle of Prestonpans

29 Hunting

antiques with... Roo Irvine

58 A

wee livener with... Tom Morton

52 Castle

with a ringside view of history p7

Index - Inside this issue

42 Remembering


Index - Inside this issue

inside this issue

72 Building

a natural beauty business 86 Behind

78 New

chapter for book club

the scenes of the Declaration of 94 Musical Correspondent and Arbroath the story behind the song

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boost for rural living

143 Lockdown

in Alaska Strange Tales from

134 100 An

actor’s life for me with... Scott Kyle

150 Our

Thin Places

guide on where to stay

Playing a round ‌ at Cullen 110

1 Cover

Photo

Photo by Damian Shields / VisitScotland Port Logan, Dumfries & Galloway p9

Index - Inside this issue

119 Projected


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Scotland Correspondent is an independent magazine published by Flag Media Limited. The monthly digital title provides an international audience of readers with comprehensive coverage of modern day Scotland, its people, achievements, culture, history and customs. Every issue covers a variety of topics of interest to thousands of people every month, many of them visitors to Scotland or part of the great Scottish diaspora. The digital edition incorporates audio, video and text in a single platform designed for use on Apple, Android and Windows devices. The magazine is free to subscribe to and download. For more information on how to get a copy, subscribe or enquire about advertising please contact the relevant departments. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any claim made by advertisements in Scotland Correspondent magazine or on the Scotland Correspondent website. All information should be checked with the advertisers. The content of the magazine does not necessarily represent the views of the publishers or imply any endorsement. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior agreement in writing from Flag Media Limited.

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Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

Photo by Linda CC BY-SA 2.0 Glenshee from the Spittal

On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

by Paul Kelbie

T

he road to Tomintoul from Crathie is naturally spectacular but when you add in the mystery and history that dots the route it’s an experience not to be missed. As part of a six part exploration of the North East 250 this, the second stage of the journey, takes in a little detour to the Spittal of Glenshee.

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Although only about 70 miles long in total - the entire section could be completed in little more than an hour - it’s really best savoured rather than rushed. The scenic, winding road takes travellers through the heart of the Cairngorms National Park amid some of the country’s most spectacular scenery. Setting off from Crathie, on the A93, the Old Military Road pretty much follows the path of the River

Dee into the heart of Braemar. This picturesque, historic village sits at what used to be a strategic point on the ancient trackway used by the Picts, Romans and, a bit later, Medieval travellers to cross the Grampian mountains. Sometime around 1059 King Malcolm III constructed a wooden bridge and a castle at Braemar, which is a variation of the original Gaelic words Bràigh Mhàrr, meaning simply the ‘lands of Marr.


It was here on 6 September 1715 that the Earl of Marr raised the standard of the exiled King James Stuart and started the 1715 Jacobite rising. The Earl was also the owner of nearby Braemar Castle, which lies a short distance outside the village. Built in 1628 as a hunting lodge it was forfeited to the British Crown as punishment for Marr’s role in the rebellion. A large proportion of the lands around Braemar used to belong to Clan Farquharson, until it was taken from them as a reprisal for their part in the 1745 Jacobite rebellion. In 1748 Braemar Castle was turned into a garrison for Hanoverian troops and remained a military post until 1831 when it was returned to the Farquharsons and used as a family home by the 12th Laird of Invercauld, who regularly played host to a visiting

Photo Kenny Lam/VisitScotland View from the Lecht on the road from Tomintoul to Braemar

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Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

Photo Damian Shields/VisitScotland The Toplis Bothy on the A939 from Tomintoul to Ballater


Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

Queen Victoria. Today the village is world

famous for its annual Highland Gathering, which is believed to have started in the time of

Malcolm III. Traditionally held on the first Saturday in September it is usually attended by members

Photo Kenny Lam/VisitScotland Still designed by Angus Ritchie and Daniel Tyler to promote a viewpoint across the Cairngorms

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Patron of the Braemar Royal Highland Society.

After leaving Braemar the road continues to the Spittal of Glenshee where evidence of

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Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

of the Royal family and ever since the days of Queen Victoria the reigning monarch has been


Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

Photo by Daryl McKeown CC BY-SA 2.0 Standing stone at Spittal of Glenshee

former Neolithic residents can be found in the form of a standing stone, behind the old kirk, and a stone circle. The Spittal is where four glens meet and it is a really popular destination for visitors due to the fantastic variety of accommodation and things to do, from walking, angling and shooting to golf, mountain biking and skiing in winter. Although continuing the journey to Tomintoul means retracing the route back to Crathie it’s not really a hardship, especially as it provides a second chance to enjoy the view and see so many things probably missed earlier. Several specially created vantage points have been installed along the road for travellers to stop and appreciate the changing light on the landscape. The first of these, called Connecting Contours, lies between the Spittal of Glenshee

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and the Devil’s Elbow. Once back at Crathie the A93 takes you through a number of former hamlets such as Bush Crathie, Braenaloin and Rinloan where abandoned and dilapidated cottages dot the countryside, adding to the stark beauty of the surroundings. The route continues to wind its way to Corgarff, a hamlet best known for its castle built in early 16th century by the Elphinstone family. The fortified tower house was leased to the Forbes of Towie until a feud with Adam Gordon of Auchindoun in 1571 resulted in it being set on fire, killing 26 of the occupants, including Margaret Campbell, Lady Forbes, and her children. Throughout the 17th and 18th centuries the castle was repeatedly attacked, destroyed, rebuilt and occupied by various

competing sides until it was finally turned into a British military garrison in the wake of Culloden. A contingent of soldiers were stationed there to pacify the Highlands initially and later to help crack down on illegal whisky distilling in the area. Corgarff Castle is now in the care of Historic Environment Scotland and is open to the public with an impressive display of how the place would have looked at the time of the Jacobite rebellion. From Corgarff the road goes to Cock Bridge where another art installation, known as The Watchers, provides an ideal vantage point from which to take in the view. The road then climbs to the Lecht Ski Centre and into Tomintoul, the highest village in the Highlands, which was founded in 1775 as a ‘model’ community by Alexander Gordon, 4th Duke of Gordon. He


Photo Damian Shields/VisitScotland Winding through the misty hills of the Cairngorms the A939 road runs from Tomintoul to Ballater

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Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

Photo Damian Shields/VisitScotland Corgarff Castle, situated in stunning scenery with magnificent views


Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

Photo Damian Shields/VisitScotland Highland Cows, Delnabo Estate, Tomintoul, Ballindalloch

had hoped it would reduce theft of his cattle and deter the illegal distilling of spirits in the area.

Reportedly, in the 18th century, there were more than 200 illicit distilleries in the Livet glen alone and by 1820 the excise

Photo Damian Shields/VisitScotland The Glenlivet distillery is a distillery near Ballindalloch

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men policing the region were confiscating bootleg stills at a rate of 14,000 a year.


It’s no surprise that when the law changed in 1823, allowing whisky to be made legally under licence, one of the first to take

advantage was George Smith. His little distillery in Upper Drumin, four miles from Tomintoul, went on to become the world famous

Glenlivet. Other historic characters associated with the area include

Photo Damian Shields/VisitScotland The Old Bridge of Livet, also known as the Packhorse Bridge, is located near the village of Glenlivet

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Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

Photo by Damian Shields/VisitScotland The Glenlivet Distillery, the oldest legal distillery in the parish of Glenlivet


Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer

Photo Damian Shields/VisitScotland Lecht Mine is a former iron and manganese mining site located in the parish of Kirkmichael, Moray

the notorious murderer Percy Toplis. A small time Derbyshire crook and a deserter from the British Army during the First World War he was a conman with talent for impersonating upperclass, monocle-wearing officers. Toplis became notorious after he was accused of being a ring leader during a mutiny by British troops at Etaples, France, just before the battle of Passchendaele in 1917. Although subsequent evidence has suggested he was not involved Toplis was forced to go on the run. In 1920 he was convicted in absentia of shooting dead a taxi driver in Southampton, even though witnesses put him 20 miles away at the time of the murder, and his photograph was circulated around the country. Topliss managed to escape to Scotland and hid out in a bothy

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Photo Kenny Lam/VisitScotland Drinking Fountain in The Square Tomintoul

near Tomintoul until he was discovered by a local policeman and farmer. In a frantic bid to escape he shot and wounded both men but was eventually cornered outside Plumpton, Cumbria less than month later and shot dead by police.

Over the last 100 years there’s been a lot of debate as to whether Toplis was the victim of an embarrassed establishment that wanted him punished for getting above his station, or nothing more than a common criminal. Even now, mystery continues to surround the Monocled Mutineer.


Travel - On the trail of Jacobites, whisky smugglers and the Monocled Mutineer Photo Paul Tomkins/VisitScotland Looking over Glen Avon, through which the River Avon runs, near Tomintoul

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Travel - Rooms with a view Photo by VisitScotland View from McCaigs Tower, Oban

Rooms with a view

by Paul Watson

T

he international lockdown caused by the Covid-19 crisis is inspiring thousands of Scots to share the view from their own windows with the world. As people across the country are advised to stay at home a new campaign, launched by the national tourism organisation, is

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encouraging Scots to share the everyday sights they can see from their properties. #AWindowOnScotland aims to create a virtual vision of the nation’s towns, villages and cities to remind visitors of what is there for them when travel restrictions are lifted. From the mundane to the sublime, VisitScotland believes

each view will create an authentic picture of Scotland and hopes it will spread some joy between neighbours, friends and visitors. Twitter users are asked to take a picture of a view from their property and post it on social media using the hashtag #AWindowOnScotland and their location, such as #Stirling, #Aberdeen, #Glasgow or


Travel - Rooms with a view Photo by VisitScotland View from Slains Castle

wherever. It is hoped the campaign will remind visitors, particularly Scots who holiday here and represent one of the country’s most important tourism markets, of the diverse landscape, vibrant cities and stunning scenery waiting for them when this isolation period ends. In the same way Scotland Correspondent has been sharing daily images of Scotland’s spectacular views from the magazine’s archive of over 5,000 pages, that are free to read at www.scotlandcorrespondent. com, that new initiative aims to showcase what people are missing. The campaign carries a very clear stay at home message while at the same time allowing everyone to show their part of Scotland to the world and entice future visitors.

Photo by VisitScotland View from Southerness Lighthouse

“At the moment it is important we stay at home but while we can’t get out, we want to create something that will remind people of what Scotland has to offer when this is over,” said Malcolm Roughead, Chief Executive of VisitScotland. “When people are apart and feeling isolated, it is more important than ever to bring them

together in an act of solidarity to show the warm, welcoming and friendly spirit of Scotland’s people. “#AWindowOnScotland will spread the love of our hometowns, villages and cities from across Scotland to our friends, neighbours and visitors and expand the window for the world.”

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History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine

Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine

Zavedeni slovanske liturgie na velke morave

Mucha clue about something…

O

ften, true beauty is only discovered when one stops to truly appreciate it. Whether it’s a sunset,

a full moon, spring daffodils or the curve of a lover’s smile. Life has become so hectic that

such fleeting moments often fade into the background. Like the wallpaper in our own homes we might struggle to describe it in

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History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine Slovane v pravlasti

detail if really pushed. Sometimes it takes an unprecedented situation to focus our attention and search out the beauty that surrounds us unnoticed everyday. One artist that epitomised overlooked beauty better than most is Alphonse Mucha. His preRaphaelite goddesses, with their flowing hair, bear an uncanny similarity to the style of our own Charles Rennie Mackintosh. There is a wonderful flair of joie de vivre that seeps from every brush stroke made by this Czech illustrator.

Alfons Mucha

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Ironically, Mucha didn’t like the concept of Art Nouveau even though is work remains inextricably linked with the style. Many parallels are drawn between Mackintosh and Mucha. There are striking similarities between the symbolism incorporated by both artists, such as the birds used to symbolise the beauty of music in their artwork.


History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine

Medea

Mucha Bénédictine 1898

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History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine Biscuits Lefèvre Utile

Bières de la Meuse 1897

Mackintosh and Mucha were also very patriotic, encompassing emblems of their home countries in their work. Mackintosh used the thistle in his “Scottish Musical Review Poster” while Mucha featured an embroidered folk cap, thorns, daisy crown and a heart to showcase his love for the Czech republic. Both artists are known for their stylisation of botanical elements. Mucha’s work often features flowers and plants while Mackintosh’s distinctive rose emblem is instantly recognisable around the world.

Moravian Teachers’ Choir 1911

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International influences also bring elements of Japan into both artists’ work in terms of the lines and woodcuts. Each artist was individually influenced by the French Art Nouveau style, especially when it came to featuring females whose natural curves and lines were often elongated and bodies depicted as willowy and delicate with an air of natural beauty.


History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine

SalammbĂ´ 1896

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History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine Lune et etoiles 1902

Mucha was clearly fascinated by the female form and feminine

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qualities. While other artists have often historically depicted

women as dangerous, debauched and bewitching, as in the style


History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine

of Aubrey Beardsley, Mucha saw the innocence and purity in

women, as well as the sensuous temptation that resided within.

He wrote that women were “creative forces to bring forth new

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Sarah Bernhardt

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History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine


History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine

Monaco Monte Carlo

beings” and as such didn’t seek to capture the physical likeness of woman but rather the essence of her soul. He saw past the

Biscuits Champagne Lefèvre Utile 1896

physicality. One of Mucha’s most notable muses was the inimitable Sarah

Bernhardt, a Parisian actress and a superstar in her own right. Although ‘merely’ a book illustrator at the time he was

After the Battle of Grunwald

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History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine The Four Seasons 1897

commissioned to produce a poster for Ms Bernhardt. His finished work ‘Gismonda’ stunned Paris, and created instant success for Mucha as a true Artist. Bernhardt loved the dramatic elongation of her already statuesque frame and the elegance within the flowing lines.

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She believed he captured the ‘soul’ of her Art, mirroring her own creative vision as a performer. Suddenly Mucha was given a six year contract and made the star’s Artistic Director, even producing Bernhard’s costumes, jewellery and stage sets. She may have been his muse but he sculpted her persona.

The Pre-Raphaelite influence on Mucha’s work can be seen in the delicate facial features of the women he painted. Soft, full lips and deep, almost drowsy eyes with melancholy expressions reminiscent of Dante Gabriel Rossetti, dominated his work. Some even class his work as Eroticism - not surprising as during the Victorian era the


History - Antique hunting with... Roo Irvine

glimpse of an ankle, legs, arms and shoulders was often classed as overtly erotic and sensual. Mucha’s work also tends to mirror his spiritual, mystical side. His pieces offer an escape into another magical world where you can almost smell the fragrant musk of the flowers and the scent of the women exuding through his

Artwork. Like Mackintosh the style of Mucha is so iconic, so instantly recognisable and globally loved that it was inevitable the style would be much copied. Today his work is widely imitated in everything from costume jewellery to 1960’s style psychedelic posters.

Finding a genuine, previously undiscovered or forgotten example of his work is increasingly difficult. Most of his Artwork is held by the Mucha Foundation, and is often exhibited around the world in travelling exhibitions, where it deserves to be preserved and enjoyed by anyone with an appreciation for beauty.

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History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans Photos by The Battle of Prestonpans (1745) Heritage Trust

Marking the Battle of Prestonpans

by Scott Aitken

I

t was a battle that gave hope to a doomed cause, inspired one of the best known songs of the Jacobite era and has featured in countless books, films and television shows, including Outlander. As dawn broke on 21 September 1745 some 2,000 sword wielding

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Jacobites emerged out of the early morning mist and charged the confused ranks of Hanoverian troops camped near Prestonpans. The British forces had been sent north to quell the rebellion that had begun just a month before when Prince Charles Edward Stuart had landed in Scotland and raised his banner at Glenfinnan on 19 August.

Initially Bonnie Prince Charlie’s announcement to reclaim the throne for his father, the deposed King James, wasn’t taken very seriously as the British establishment failed to recognise the extent of the threat. Sir John Cope, then the government commander in Scotland, was tasked with putting down the rising and he marched


History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans

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History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans

to confront the Young Pretender’s army. They eventually met on the outskirts of Edinburgh, which the Jacobites had marched into just hours before Cope’s troops arrived at Dunbar.

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History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans

Following a brief skirmish on 20 September General Cope was keen to fully engage. He believed his troops would easily defeat the poorly armed Jacobites and put a quick and decisive end to the rising.


History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans

However, while the British troops camped for the night in preparation for a full pitched battle the following day the Jacobites launched a surprise attack through the marshlands Cope had thought would act as a defensive barrier and hinder his enemy. At around 6am the Highlanders charged. It was all over in little more than 15 minutes. Hundreds of government troops were killed or wounded and more than 1,5000 taken prisoner. The Jacobites lost less than 100 men, killed or wounded. Such a swift and decisive victory raised Jacobite spirits and filled them with confidence while the Hanoverian establishment was left shocked and reeling. Never again would the British government underestimate the danger. Prince William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland was recalled

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History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans

from Flanders to take control of the army, culminating in defeat for the Jacobites at the Battle of Culloden some seven months later and the ruthless repercussions that followed. However, the dramatic events surrounding Bonnie Prince Charlie’s return from exile, the raising of an army and winning against the odds at the Battle of Prestonpans has sparked a cultural legacy which continues to this day. The battle is commemorated in poems, novels, paintings, tapestries and songs - the most well known being “Hey, Johnnie Cope, Are Ye Waking Yet?�. The tune is still used today and was even played by pipers as the 51st (Highland) Division stormed the beaches of Normandy on 6 June 1944. The Battle of Prestonopans was a moment in history that has

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History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans

fascinated, moved and inspired people from around the world. Now, as the 275th anniversary approaches children are being invited to take part in a special project called ‘Victory, Hope & Ambition’ to mark the occasion

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by creating works of prose, poetry or art and design that depicts the battle or its legacy. Launched by The Battle of Prestonpans (1745) Heritage Trust, a charity that aims to keep

the cultural legacy of this moment in history alive, the project has been created as an ideal activity for homeschoolers. Youngsters, aged between seven and 17, are encouraged to


Entrants are free to explore these areas from any perspective, including those of both Jacobite and Hanoverian supporters. Written contributions should be no more than 500 words.

Entrants can work in groups or as individuals and submit through their school or privately. In response to the current lockdown, the Trust has also added an additional category for

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History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans

submit works that reflect one of the following key themes: ‘The prince has landed’, ‘A call to arms’, ‘On the march’, ‘Battle’, ‘Victory / defeat’ and ‘Looking back’.


History - Marking The Battle of Prestonpans adults too.

2021.

Resources to help inspire and inform entries can be found at https://prestonpans275.org/ inspiration

Participating groups are also invited to arrange visits to the battlefield with the Trust’s costumed guides once the current lockdown comes to an end. In the meantime, new video material and online activities are being created for free download via the website and social media channels.

Entries are welcome in English, Scots or Gaelic. Gaelic language entries should be accompanied by English translations if possible. Entries will be published online, and as many as possible will be chosen to feature in a special commemorative book. An event will be held to celebrate the creativity of the entrants in early

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Steven Kellow, Project & Funding Officer at Bòrd na Gàidhlig said, “We are delighted to be supporting this project as it fulfils the three primary aims of

the National Gaelic Language Plan 2018-23. We hope that our funding will help children from the area engage with the project through the medium Gaelic and we wish the project every success!” A programme of events is planned to mark the 275th anniversary of the battle of Prestonpans. These will include a tour of The Prestonpans 1745 Tapestry and a special threemonth exhibition in Haddington, and a programme of events showcasing the cultural legacy of the battle.


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History - Return to Eden

Return to Eden

Photos by Paul Kelbie Eden Castle

by Paul Kelbie

T

here is very little documented about the once imposing Z-plan tower house that lies amid farmland on the back road between Banff and Turriff in Aberdeenshire. But, if walls could talk there is little doubt this crumbling ruin would have tales to tell that could inspire not just one book but a whole library.

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Bearing the name Eden Castle, conjuring up Biblical images of being surrounded by an abundance of natural beauty, this historic 16th century building was originally constructed sometime around the latter half of the 1500s, probably as the centrepiece of a country estate rather than as a purely defensive structure.

Over the years it is known to have

changed hands several times, having been home to members of three of the region’s most powerful families - the Meldrums, Leslies and Duffs. Situated close to the junction of where the Burn of Kingedward meets the River Deveron the castle overlooks lands that have featured in the history books going back more than 600 years.


History - Return to Eden

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History - Return to Eden

The first known mention of Eden appears in a document dating from 1411 which identifies the land as part of the Barony of Kingedward, which had been granted to the Earl of Ross by Robert the Bruce as a reward for his support. Various rows, political shenanigans and back-handed bargains over the following years meant the land changed hands quite a few times until eventually

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being acquired by Thomas Meldrum, son of the Laird of Fyvie. Sometime after about 1542 Eden Castle is believed to have been built by the Meldrums, but exactly how long it remained in the family is unclear. What is known is that the lands and the castle were passed to the Leslie family soon after the Wars of the Three Kingdoms (1639-


It was the Leslie family who

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History - Return to Eden

1651). This area of Scotland played a significant part in the struggle which spread throughout the United Kingdom, leading to the English Civil War and eventually the trial and execution of King Charles I. In February 1639 the first shots of the conflict were fired from the walls of St Congan’s Church, Turriff - just seven miles from Eden Castle.


History - Return to Eden

The Earl went on to commission the elaborate Duff House, about four miles away at Banff, which he never lived in due to a row over the spiralling costs of construction between 1735 and 1740. However, it is quite likely that some of the stone from Eden Castle was transported to Banff and used in the building of the Duff House estate. View from ground level at Eden Castle

built up Eden Castle into the structure recognisable today. Marks on the stones built into the walls reveal that renovations and additions were added to the property around 1676 by George Leslie. It was he who extended the castle into its Z-shaped formation, increased the defences by including gun loops in the walls, and created an elaborate banqueting room and family apartments. However, within 40 years the castle again changed hands

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when it was sold to William Duff, the Earl of Fife in 1712. By this time the castle would have had a cellar, kitchen, great hall on the first floor and at least two storeys of bedrooms above. Although quite a prestigious home for its time it is believed the Duffs were rarely in residence. They appeared to have only used Eden Castle as a country retreat. The Earl spent much of his time in London as the member of parliament for Banff.

Although now a registered scheduled monument Eden Castle is in a ruinous state and unsafe for visitors, although it can still be viewed closely from the roadside. Despite its sorry appearance there is enough of the castle to easily imagine how it might have looked in its heyday some 300 years ago. It would certainly have been an impressive sight as it towered over the undulating, secluded and beautiful countryside that still surrounds it.


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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

Photo by Nigel Brown CC BY-SA 2.0 View over Arnisdale

I

Appeasing the Swilchies

have a friend, a keen connoisseur of whisky. His name is David and it was he who introduced me to the, on the face of it outlandish, notion of

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combining single malt whiskies with sweetmeats.

It was a memorable occasion in St Andrews when he ordered,

as pudding in an expensive restaurant, plain ice cream, vanilla, made by local company Janetta’s, and a hugely dear 25-year-old Macallan. Which he


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton Photo by Lakeworther CC BY-SA 3.0 Old Pulteney pot still

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

then poured on top of the ice cream. I made do with vanilla ice cream and a Highland Park 12-year-old, as I was less well

Photo by Kognos CC BY-SA 4.0 Ben Cruachan & Connel Bridge

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funded than he. It was delicious. I took David’s word that the Macallan version was even better.

The thing is, David is a keen kayaker, who once stood on the back of a basking shark. It was lazily sucking plankton


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only a few precarious seconds, admittedly, before he was thrown into the sea, and the great, harmless beast dived.

David had canoe surfed the standing wave formed during certain tides at the Falls of Lora, beneath the Connel Bridge near

Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

into its huge mouth, floating on the surface of the sea as David paddled off Arnisdale in the West Highlands. He managed


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

Photo by Walter Baxter CC BY-SA 2.0 The Corryvreckan Whirlpool

Oban. But he had never tackled the legendary whirlpool called Corryvreckan, north of Jura, the tidal race named The Gray Dog off Lunga, and most fearsome of all, the destructive, raging Pentland Firth between Orkney and Caithness, where it forms the infamous Swilchie. This ship-swallowing whirlpool, one of the most severe in the world, occurs when the waters of the Atlantic and the North Sea collide, squeezed between the two landmasses in Scotland’s far north. But the Norse story is that two giantesses are to blame, sitting at the bottom of the firth, grinding out salt to render the sea saline, using massive handoperated mills. They are the Swilchies.

Photo by Tony Page CC BY-SA 2.0 The Corryvreckan from Scarba

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There is a story that the only way for any mariner to appease these giantesses is to drink a toast to them, and this is most effective in what is clearly a magical mixture,


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

Wolfburn whisky warehouse

a cocktail of the goddesses. And here is where I admit that, inspired by that night in St Andrews, I dreamed - some would say concocted - this story during a particularly rough crossing from Scrabster to Stromness in Orkney. I sought solace in this. All I can tell you is that it worked, or appeared to. You take a generous measure of whisky, made locally, in this case Old Pulteney from Wick, not far away, though Wolfburn, also made in Caithness would work too, I think. Scapa or Highland Park from Orkney are other possibilities.

Photo by Erik Charlton from Menlo Park, USA CC BY 2.0 Old Pulteney cask

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Add another magical ingredient, the Scottish confectionary known as tablet. This is the single sweetest substance on the planet, and it is made by boiling sugar, butter and condensed milk, then letting the mix solidify. Every country has its version of tablet


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton Š Colin CC BY-SA 3.0 Connel Bridge

- Sucre de la Creme in Quebec, Confiture du Lait in France, Dulce De Leche in Spain. Even fudge, and there is an Orkney Fudge which is tablet by another name. Scottish tablet is sweeter than all foreign competitors. And it is the only substance which will appease the Swilchie giantesses. You can place a one-centimetre cube in the whisky glass and wait for it to dissolve, but I would not advise this as, from experience, it takes too long.

place it in the mouth, and chew it into a paste. Take one measure of whisky, and hold it in your mouth with the melted tablet, swilling, mixing and masticating until it is one compound. Pour a pinch of salt onto your hand, and add it to the mix, the salt is a tribute to the saline environment those giantesses inhabit. Then swallow.

Instead, take the cube of tablet,

This is the Swilchie. Not so much

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The result is immediate, gratifying and somewhat disturbing. Magical.

a cocktail, more a whirlpool of the senses, a tidal race of the soul, And having drunk it, you can, after a suitable period of reflection, safely set sail along the Pentland Firth, even in a kayak or on the back of a basking shark, in the sure and certain knowledge that you will arrive safely at your destination, unravaged by submerged giantesses. Or you could just mix yourself another Swilchie, and remain, comfortably, on dry land.


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

Photo by Reinhard Dietrich PD Thurso

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

Photo by Richard Webb CC BY-SA 2.0 Camus Ban, Arnisdale

The Swilchie’s Song If you wonder why the sea is salt

To render the sea quiet and still You must partake of Scotland’s treasure

I’ll tell you. It’s the Swilchies’ fault

A sweetmeat, which, while giving pleasure

Off Stroma, where the Pentland rages

On its own, will be increased

Beneath the waves all down the ages Two women work a giant mill If you go there you will see them still

Be multiplied, become a feast For soul and senses; so add a dram The raging sea will duly calm If a pinch of salt be added too

As they’ve been from the dawn of time

Savour then, this glorious brew

Singing a song which seems sublime

Swallow, and stop the stormy song

At first, but quickly turns to dread And raises visions in your head Of ships sucked to a dreadful plight Of storms that shriek through endless night Waves higher than the highest mast Breaking and shearing in the blast. To cease their grinding, to halt the mill

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Drink deeply, savour the sweetness long And soon a silence will descend The Swilchies’ power is at an end So rest and feel the spirit’s burn But remember: that Pentland tide will turn…

Leaving aside the question of cocktails, ghostly undersea giantesses and the sweetness of tablet, it’s worth having a wee swallie (“a small libation”) of the basic whiskies to be found in Caithness. Old Pulteney is distilled and aged

in Wick (Pulteneytown, to be precise, the area of Wick built as a ‘new town’ by Thomas Telford for the British Fisheries Society in the 19th Century), and the basic 10-year-old dram is one of the great bargains of the whisky world, widely available at very reasonable prices. The more esoteric Pulteney bottlings can be wonderful (and expensive), and the distillery itself is well worth a visit should you ever visit what is one of the most underrated, architecturally attractive and friendly towns in Scotland. One whiff and suddenly, I’m back at the excellent Mackays Hotel in Wick, sited on what is officially the world’’s shortest street, the 6 foot nine inch Ebenezer Place. You can stay in a room which takes up its entire length. Wolfburn is distilled in Wick’s rival for Caithnessian supremacy, Thurso, which for many decades was dominated by the nearby Dounreay nuclear plant, and has always for that reason been more developed and industrial than Wick. Also, Scrabster, with the ferry to Orkney, and John o’Groats are both nearby. Wolfburn has retaken the honour of being the UK’s most northerly mainland whisky from Pulteney, having been revived in 2016 after closure and indeed erasure from the landscape for nigh on 160 years.


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

Photo by Noudbijvoet CC BY 3.0 Ebenezer Place

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener with... Tom Morton

Tasting Notes Old Pulteney 10-year-Old NOSE:

MOUTH:

It has all the aromas of a coastal town in summer: salt, ozone, old stone harbour breakwaters drying in the sun.

It has a taste reminiscent of a windswept, dry, hot beach.

FINISH and BREATHE: After the initial flavours it fades to an after taste finish of dark chocolate and a nettle-like astringency.

Overall: Pulteney is almost a style of whisky in its own right, similar to, if anything, Springbank and the other Campbelltown malts in its ascetic saltiness. It is, even at this basic level, one of the world’s great whiskies, terrible underrated and available cheaply for around £30.

Wolfburn Aurora NOSE: First nasal whiff is all the pungent, burnt rubber aroma of an old fashioned chemist or dental surgery. Sulphur, and that’s probably to do with the casks used for ageing. A small, new distillery’s supply of oak will

always be problematic, and working out the relationship between the spirit from the still and the oak that’s available can take, well, time.

MOUTH: It’s better in the mouth, with a

slightly rusty, leaf mould taste, but with cinnamon and vanilla coming through strongly.

FINISH and BREATHE: Finish is burnt cork and stewed tea.

Overall: Wolfburn Aurora is a very young whisky indeed. Now, age is no guarantee of quality, and a brand-new distillery is understandably keen to get its product to market after that compulsory three-year wait in oak before a spirit can be called Scotch Whisky. So buying a bottle of Aurora for £44 or thereabouts is really about curiosity combined with geographical loyalty. Because to be frank, this is a whisky which needs more time in the wood.

NOTE: Both of these whiskies were nosed and tasted at their bottled alcoholic strength, which is 40 per cent for Pulteney and 46 for Wolfburn. No added water, in other words. I think you can see which my choice would be. However, add some tablet and the Swilchies will doubtless be appeased by Wolfburn Aurora. Give it time. And maybe some ice cream.

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Entrepreneur - Natural benefits by Helen Lloyd

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Natural benefits

n entrepreneur who created a brand of natural cosmetics from native Scottish wildflower meadows, and pioneered a project to protect pollinating insects, has become the first UK business to win Wildlife Friendly Certification.

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Dr Sally Goldstone, botanist and founder of the family-run firm Seilich in East Lothian, is passionate about protecting the environment.

Following a 20 year career, which saw her travel the world working on projects as far a field as Borneo, Belize and Madagascar, before settling down in Scotland with a role at the Royal Botanic

Garden in Edinburgh specialising in Scottish plant conservation, she decided it was time for a change. Two years ago she started the company which now boasts a range of handmade natural cosmetics including face mists, body sprays and room mists. From day one it has been Sally’s


Entrepreneur - Natural benefits

Dr Sally Goldstone

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Entrepreneur - Natural benefits passion to create range of natural products that are beneficial for the environment. “I began Seilich (pronounced ‘Shay-lich’) in 2018 after the birth of my little girl Willow,” said Sally who chose the Gaelic translation of her daughter’s name for her brand.

impact by doing something much closer to home. So I began the creation of a wildflower meadow, rotavating, harrowing and seeding with Willow firmly positioned in the sling.

“I wanted her to grow up in a world surrounded by nature, seeing colourful flowers and tapestries of green, to hear birdsong and the hum of bees, to smell the wet earth after the rain.

“In the spring the first seedlings started to appear and with each week that passed the meadow unfurled its colours, textures and sounds. With her first steps Willow would bumble among the tall grasses surrounded by buzzing insects and brightly coloured flowers and I thought, this is how it should be!”

“My research had taught me that this was looking less and less likely as natural systems were collapsing around the world and extinction rates were soaring,” said Sally.

Today, the meadow is packed full of a variety of species, all of which can be found naturally in Scotland, from which Sally has created a range of truly natural cosmetics.

“Taking on the global biodiversity challenge was perhaps not going to be on my agenda for a while, but I could still make an

In addition to encouraging pollinators such as bees, hoverflies, butterflies and birds all the plants have proven

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beneficial properties. Some are antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and/or antioxidant while others may have recognised moisturising or anti-aging ingredients. As a result of Sally’s commitment to nature conservation Seilich is the first Wildlife Friendly Certified company in the UK and only the second in Europe. “We were able to gain this certification due to the growing practices we use which ensure our meadow is first and foremost a place of shelter for wildlife,” said Sally. “Joining forces with the Wildlife Friendly Enterprise Network offered an opportunity for us to demonstrate that natural products can be 100 per cent natural and a force of good for nature. “The botanicals we use in our products are based on Scottish wildflower species such as


Entrepreneur - Natural benefits

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Entrepreneur - Natural benefits yarrow, comfrey, plantain and wild carrot, all of which we grow in our meadow. “These species not only produce powerful ingredients for our cosmetic products but also provide amazing habitat for

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wildlife, and with over 97 per cent of wildflower meadows in the UK being lost since the 1930s, they form an important habitat in their own right. “For this reason we are really careful about the way we harvest,

ensuring a food source for pollinators even post-harvest, and to compensate for any losses, we also work with community groups in the wider area to create a network of wildflower meadows throughout East Lothian.”


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Entrepreneur - Book club boost

Book club boost

by Helen Lloyd

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he international lockdown caused by Covid-19 has resulted in one entrepreneurial bookseller reporting a 52 per cent rise in sales in just four weeks. Rare Birds Book Club was launched in 2017 to provide the latest and best in contemporary

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women’s fiction. Books that deliver gripping plots, fascinating stories, amazing heroines and, when the occasion calls for it, smouldering love interests have found favour with an increasing number of new readers. The monthly book delivery service, complimented by an online digital book club, has become a welcome distraction

and meaningful network for women across the world

Since its emergence onto the scene three years ago, the Edinburgh-based business has seen growth of 86 per cent and 57 per cent year on year respectively. However, following the introduction of nationwide lock down measures, the service has seen subscriptions rise by


Entrepreneur - Book club boost

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Entrepreneur - Book club boost more than half. The club works through a ÂŁ10 monthly subscription service. Members get the chance to pick between two surprise books

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each month, or upgrade to both, before joining like-minded souls in an online forum to discuss the books. At the beginning of the year the

club was just about to hit 1,000 subscribers per month. Of those, around 51 per cent of people were buying for themselves and 49 per cent were buying books as gifts.


Entrepreneur - Book club boost

But, since the lock down emphasis on sales has shifted firmly towards gift purchasing with hundreds of orders coming in with requests to include messages of consolation, comfort

and togetherness.

longer-term.

The company’s pay-as-you go option has also proved popular, with people looking to enjoy the service without having to commit

In addition to a rise in UK memberships the business has also recorded a marked increase in global sales with 10 per cent

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Entrepreneur - Book club boost of all orders now being shipped to more than 23 countries, including as far as Japan and New Zealand. The club has managed to keep

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going during the lockdown because all the mail outs are currently being done from the spare room of founder Rachel Wood’s flat, rather than the company’s headquarters in

Edinburgh city centre. “My spare room is basically now a small warehouse, but it means we’ve been able to stay fully operational during lockdown. Once books are


Entrepreneur - Book club boost Rachel Woods, founder of Rare Birds Book Club

picked, packed and ready to go, they are collected by Royal Mail in a seamless operation that is completely contactless. My staff and I are all isolated in our

own homes and have different responsibilities to keep us ticking over – I do the big send outs and individual orders are done elsewhere,” said Rachel, 31, who

studied Philosophy at university and then went on to get a Master’s in Creative Writing.

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Arts - Bookmarker Photo by National Museums of Scotland Detail of the Declaration of Arbroath

Project provides fresh insight to The Declaration of Arbroath

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new book exploring the untold stories of the Scots behind the Declaration of Arbroath brings to life a ‘people’s history’ of the men who sought to confirm Scotland’s status as an independent nation. A team of more than 50 writers have collaborated on the work, Conquered by No One, to create a new understanding of one of the most important documents in Scottish history.

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Edited and coordinated by Neil McLennan, a former history teacher and now Director of Leadership Programmes at the University of Aberdeen, the book includes chapters of each of the 39 names in the letter and others associated with it. Some chapters have been written by their direct descendants. It also includes a fresh translation of The Declaration and Pope John XXII’s response by Dr Roger Collins of the

University of Edinburgh and Dr Marie-Luise Ehrenschwendtner of the University of Aberdeen which will help reconsider the meaning of key aspects of these documents. The Declaration, widely thought to have been drawn up in Arbroath Abbey, was sent to the Pope in late April or May and his response was received on August 28 which is when the finished work is scheduled to be published.


Arts - Bookmarker

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Arts - Bookmarker Photo by Stewart Cunningham Lord Charles Bruce with an ancient depiction of his family tree

“The project was audacious at best when we first started with 50 people from across the country - ranging from historians and writers to teachers and civic figures - contributing to a single

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text,” said Mr McLennan. “We have chapters and biographers for each noble and Baron whose name appears in the historic Declaration of

Arbroath. It has been a truly cooperative effort and we thank each of them for bringing history alive. “Readers will be fascinated with


Arts - Bookmarker

the stories of the people behind the treaty, never before shared in this way, and moreover the local stories which impact on each area of Scotland.”

Contributors include Lord Charles Bruce - one of the most prominent living descendants of Robert the Bruce – who has written a chapter on his forefather; and Anthony Maxwell

who has direct lineage to Eustace Maxwell; David Leslie, Baron Baillie of Balquhain and Restorer of Leslie Castle 197989, who offers insights into Andrew De Leslie and authors

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Arts - Bookmarker Photo by National Museum of Scotland Declaration of Arbroath

working with the current Earl of Dalhousie, descendant of William Ramsay. Academics from across Scottish life and disciplines have also penned episodes with Professor Barbara Crawford, Past President of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, detailing Magnus, Earl of Orkney and Professor Murray Pittock, Vice Principal of the University of Glasgow, writing on William Oliphant, Lord of Aberdalgie and Dupplin. Medieval historian Dr Fiona Watson has also supported the production of this new work.

Declaration of Arbroath

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History educators and teachers from across Scotland, including Arbroath High teacher Manu Rio, also offer their perspectives together with Arbroath born Advocate Paul Reid writing on Bernard, Abbot of Arbroath.


Arts - Bookmarker Neil McLennan

The historian Roger Collins, noted for his Keepers of the Keys of Heaven: A History of the Papacy also provides an evaluation of the role of Pope John XXII. Mr McLennan said that bringing together so many writers from different backgrounds gives the book a unique perspective. “Just as the 1320 document brought together noblemen with differing views from very different parts of Scotland, we wanted Conquered by No One to represent a broad range of voices across Scottish life. “The book is very much a people’s history bringing together for the first time the stories, motivations and viewpoints of those who collaborated to sign the Declaration of Arbroath – written by a wide range of enthusiastic teachers, historians, writers,

Photo by Tom Parnell CC BY-SA 4.0 Arbroath Abbey

civic figures from across Scottish cultural, education and civic life.”

Conquered by No One will be published by Hammer & Mirror Books.

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Photo by Guy Phillips

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Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by Dg-505 CC BY 3.0 Macduff Parish Church with its blank clock face

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Story behind the song… Macpherson’s Rant

f you visit Banff in the North East of Scotland and gaze across the mouth of the River Deveron to neighbouring Macduff you’ll see the impressive Doune Kirk standing tall overlooking the Moray Firth. Look closely and it becomes obvious the 215-year-old church

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has an unusual clock tower - it tells the time on only three sides. The place on the west side of tower where a clock face should be, overlooking Banff, is blank. Local legend has it that this is a deliberate slight by the residents of Macduff against their neighbours for their complicity

in the death of a popular local outlaw with a reputation of being something of a Robin Hood figure. James Macpherson was born in 1675, the illegitimate son of a local laird and a gypsy girl, who grew up to be a man of “beauty, strength and stature rarely


equalled�. He was reputed to be both a skilled swordsman and equally fine fiddle player. In addition to having a passion for the ladies Macpherson also had an eye for a main chance and he became the leader of a gang of roving freebooters with a tendency to steal from the rich. According to one writer of the time he never hurt or robbed widows, orphans or the distressed - only those who could afford to be parted from a little of their wealth. As such Macpherson found favour among ordinary folk but incurred the wrath of rich lairds and land owners throughout Banffshire and as far north as Elgin and Forres, especially Alexander Duff of Braco, father of the 1st Earl of Fife. In 1700 MacPherson and his men were ambushed by Braco’s

Photo by Ulrich Hartmann CC BY-SA 2.0 Broken Fiddle cafe near the execution site in Banff

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Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by Dg-505 CC BY 3.0


Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by Mussklprozz CC BY-SA 3.0 Duff House, Banff built by 1st earl of Fife and son of Alexander Duff of Braco

men in Keith. As they passed through the town a woman threw a blanket from a window over the young outlaw, which prevented him drawing his sword, and he was captured and taken to Banff. His trial on 8 November in front of Sheriff Nicholas Dunbar, who was allegedly a close friend of Duff’s, was quick and decisive. He was found guilty of being a gypsy, vagabond and thief and sentenced to hang. Imprisoned in Banff tollbooth awaiting execution the condemned man wrote a lament on his fiddle, now known as Macpherson’s Rant, while his friends tried to secure a pardon for him. On market day, Friday 16 November 1700, Macpherson was taken from the jail to the gallows where, as a final request, he played his fiddle for the last time and offered it to the crowd.

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Photo by Anne Burgess CC BY-SA 2.0 Banff, Scotland

When nobody came forward to take the instrument he smashed it across his knee and threw it away.

ordered the town clock to be put forward 15 minutes so the 2pm execution could go ahead before the messenger arrived.

According to folklore Macpherson’s friends had indeed been successful in getting him a reprieve. However, Alexander Duff is said to have spotted the messenger carrying the pardon galloping along the route from Turriff to Banff. He immediately

It is widely believed the town’s magistrates were reprimanded for their actions and the town clock was kept 15 minutes fast for many years afterwards. When the residents of neighbouring Macduff built their


Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

with Tom Morton

#world #folk #scottish

Music to accompany reading Scotland Correspondent, the world’s only free online magazine dealing with Scotland all things Scottish. scotlandcorrespondent.com 1) Lynsey Aitken and Ken Campbell - Come On In 2) Tidelines - Far Side of the World 3) Camera Obscura - Super Trouper 4) Blazing fiddles - Shetland Night 5) Mary Ann Kennedy - Mother Glasgow 6) Michael Marra - I Don’t Like Methil 7) Lynsey Aitken and Ken Campbell - Dundee Bound 8) Idlewild - American English 9) Lau - Ghosts 10) Runrig - Dance Called America 11) Martin Bennet - Move 12) Karine Polwart - Follow the Heron 13) Nahoo - Passing Away 14) Trail West - MacPherson’s Rant

with Tom Morton

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Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by Cindy Stuntz CC BY 2.0 Camera Obscura Photo by Shaggy359 CC BY-SA 3.0 Lau

Photo Candy Schwartz CC BY 2.0 Karine Polwart

Listen here new Parish Church and clock tower more than 100 years later, in 1805, they made sure the people of Banff couldn’t see the correct time. Scots have long memories! Robert Burns later wrote his own words to the tune composed by Macpherson and the song has

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Photo Egg Creations CC BY 3.0 Idlewild

since become a staple of the traditional music scene. It can be heard in this month’s Musical Correspondent performed by the foot-tapping Gaelic band Trail West. This months show, exclusive to Scotland Correspondent, is presented by Tom Morton and includes performances from the highly talented duo Lynsey Aitken

& Ken Campell, Blazin’ Fiddles, Michael Marra, Runrig and Mary Ann Kennedy. There are also tracks from Tidelines; Camera Obscura, Idlewild, Lau, Martin Bennet, Karine Polwart and Nahoo. You can hear the latest podcast, and all previous shows, on the Radio Page at www.scotlandcorrespondent.com


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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

An actor’s life for me with... Scott Kyle

Reelin’, rockin’ and relaxin’

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his month sees the launch of a great new album from the refreshingly brilliant Reely Jiggered.

I’ve spent quite a bit of time listening to these guys, over the

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last few weeks, and they are a real inspiration.

The group was founded by Fiona McNeil and her sister Alison, who I worked alongside last summer in the play A War of Two Halves,

along with their friend Scott McLean. They are sometimes joined by Emma Murray and Hugh Cox.

Although clearly influenced by Celtic Folk music their work


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle New album out now!

Reely Jiggered on stage

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle brings together a taste of Mexico, Cuba and other vibrant styles from around the world. It’s a real blend of Celtic, funk, rock, pop and jazz. They have got to be one of Scotland’s most interesting bands around at the moment as they are always in demand, playing at festivals across Scotland and going on tours to mainland Europe, Mexico, Japan and Pakistan.

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Their new album Tricky Terrain is available to download now and is full of original songs and arrangements of traditional tunes reflecting the landscape and people who have shaped the members of the band. Their new project is a celebration of Scottish culture and diversity but also explores mental health and world issues using a combination of traditional music, rock, pop, dance beats and Eastern melodies. You can check

them out at http://www.reelyjiggered.co.uk Another reason why I think they’re so great is, apart from being fantastic musicians and entertainers, they are passionate about working with young people and keeping Live Music and Heritage Alive. They have also been keeping people entertained during the world-wide lockdown by performing live from their drive


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

every Saturday night with The Live on the Drive @ 5 Show on FaceBook. Broadcast to the world via

social media Alison and Fiona have been giving impromptu performances that certainly help lighten the mood and keep people cheerful. At the last count

more than 250,000 folks had tuned in to watch them. Keep up the good work guys!

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

That’s entertainment!

Roo Irvine

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hey say necessity is the mother of invention and the current lockdown has certainly brought out the creative talent in lots of people.

Whether it’s making funny TikTok videos, performing for neighbours in the street or writing a book (like me) the extra time has produced a wealth of new ways to entertain. I’ve been especially impressed at how people have adapted technology and social media to come up with projects they would probably never have thought of before. Whether it’s plays performed by actors in different locations via video sharing apps

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or people making old-time radio style productions it just goes to show you can’t put a lid on creativity.

I was recently asked to be a guest on RadioRoo, a weekly social media broadcast produced by television presenter, antiques expert and my fellow columnist Roo Irvine. Each week she asks people to suggest songs that mean something special to them and she invites guests on to have a chat via video link. She broadcasts the whole thing via her Facebook page.

It was quite surreal being interviewed in my back garden in Glasgow by Roo, who was sitting miles away in her home in Argyll, while we listened to my choice of Rod Stewart singing The Motown Song. It always reminds me of house parties at my mum’s place when I was growing up. Other guests who have appeared on the show include actor Tony Maudsley and Keith Duffy from Boyzone and Boyzlife. RadioRoo is a such simple idea but it has been attracting loads of people as it serves up a bit of fun, a lot of memories and is a great distraction from all the madness.


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f there is one thing that gives me hope that something positive can come out of the nightmare we are all experiencing at the moment it is the renewed community spirit. A few nights a week I’ve been working with a charity that supports thousands of people across the country who need help to live as independently as possible in their own homes. It

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has been a fantastic experience seeing the difference such an organisation can make to people’s lives. I would encourage everyone to do something if they can, especially for some of the smaller charities. A lot of very valuable and sorely needed voluntary organisations are struggling at the moment. One reason I enjoy writing for

Scotland Correspondent is that while other publications charge a cover price, or hide their content behind a paywall, this magazine doesn’t! Instead, people are asked to consider taking the money they save reading us instead of other magazines and donating it to a good cause of their choice. Every day should be #PayItForwardDay.

It only takes two…

pril 26 was my wedding anniversary. I can’t believe it’s seven years since Karen and

I had our dream wedding at the Olympic Lagoon Resort in Cyprus.

It was a fantastic few days spent at this luxury all-inclusive destination which has been specifically designed for couples

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

Community spirit


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle seeking romantic holidays and families to enjoy quality time together.

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This year was a bit different. Instead of the golden sands of Cyprus we had the green grass of

Glasgow as most of the day was spent in the garden, followed by a cosy night in binge watching


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

old movies. It was real trip down memory lane, watching the films we went to see more than

20 years ago when we started dating.

It might not have been the most exotic of anniversaries but, in its way, it was every bit as romantic.

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Activities - Cool, compact and deceptively difficult

Photo by VisitAberdeenshire Cullen Golf Club

Cool, compact and deceptively difficult

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s links courses go there are few that enjoy the natural attractions that Cullen Golf Club does.

At first glance the 67-acre course, which stretches just 4,597 yards from the back tees, would seem to present few problems for any

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reasonable player.

challenging.

But, anyone who underestimates the demands of this par 63 course does so at their peril! Despite being possibly the shortest true links experience in the world this quirky Old Tom Morris gem is deceptively

Situated on the rugged north east coast of Scotland, overlooking the magnificent Moray Firth, the club can officially trace its history back 150 years to its formation in 1870.


Activities - Cool, compact and deceptively difficult Photo by VisitAberdeenshire These ancient rock obstacles are unique to Cullen

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Activities - Cool, compact and deceptively difficult Photo Lucas Cullen CC BY-SA 3.0 Cullen looking towards the golf course

However there is documented evidence that the game was being played on the links long before then - more than 200 years earlier at least. A fascinating entry in the local Burgh Register reveals that in 1641 James and George Duffus, along with their friend George Stevinson, were convicted by the Kirk Session of breaking the Sabbath by playing golf on a Sunday instead of going to church. Each man was fined a 1/2 merk, which was the Scottish currency at the time, and ordered to repent their sins the following week. The men must have been pretty enthusiastic lovers of the game as their fine is believed to have been equivalent to about four days pay for a skilled worker.

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Factbox: • Location: Banffshire • Year Established:1850 • Total distance: 4,623 yards • Longest Hole: 15th, 511 yards, par 5 • Best Views: 6th (Bay View) • Signature Hole: 7th (Firth View) Cullen has come a long way since then and players, both local residents and visitors, are free to enjoy a game any day of the week without fear of being fined. The growth of Cullen as a golfing

attraction has been gradual over a long period of time. Initially the course was only six holes but in 1851 Old Tom Morris was enticed away from St Andrews long enough to help transform the course into an exciting 9-hole


Activities - Cool, compact and deceptively difficult

Photo by VisitAberdeenshire

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Activities - Cool, compact and deceptively difficult

experience.

holes.

A little more than 50 years later, in 1907, extra land was acquired from the Seafield family and the course was again extended. Charles Neaves, the professional from Lossiemouth, was brought in to put his stamp on the course and turn it into a ‘must play’ 18

Despite the upgrades Cullen remains shorter than most of the more famous championship courses in the region, but no less enjoyable. It is often overlooked by visiting golfers who by-pass this corner of the country to head from Aberdeen up to the likes of

Photo by VisitAberdeenshire

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Castle Stuart near Inverness. In keeping with Old Tom’s original vision the front nine follows a path up on to the ridge giving players a breathtaking view of the sea, and the occasional dolphin, while the back nine winds its way back to beach level. Throughout the course, which


While the first sixth hole is considered by many to have the best views, although the seventh is arguably just as spectacular, it’s the 15th that’s the longest. At 510-yards it is the only par 5 on the round. But, for pure fun and enjoyment holes 11, 12,13, and 14 are totally

unique. A series of rocks and dips conspire to ensure the chance of scoring four consecutive par 3s is rare indeed. Overall, Cullen is a remarkable place to play. It may not be the longest or the most prestigious but for fun it’s got to be one of the best in Scotland, if not Europe.

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Activities - Cool, compact and deceptively difficult

has total of 10 par 3s, there are numerous blind shots and natural traps which provide players with a unique experience. There can be few, if any, places in the world that can boast an 80ft sandstone rock formation more than 500million years old as an obstacle.


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Living Scotland - Country living dreams

Country living dreams

Meikle Richorn

by Paul Watson

D

emand for rural property in Scotland remains high despite the current global pandemic and experts are predicting the market will bounce back as soon as the lockdown ends. Pent-up demand continues to create widespread interest and, according to property consultancy Galbraith, there are

signs that it will grow even further with buyers and sellers keen to complete deals as soon as possible. “We anticipate the more rural property market is likely to rebound positively. The number of new instructions waiting to sell is equal to the level that would be expected at this time of year,” said Duncan Barrie, a partner with Galbraith based in Stirling and Edinburgh.

“At the beginning of the year we experienced a healthy demand for rural property, and this continued until agency activity was put on hold at the start of the lockdown period. “It is clear from ongoing conversations with the majority of both buyers and sellers that they want to continue as planned as soon as they can. In the meantime there is much that we can do to ensure interested

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Living Scotland - Country living dreams

parties can hit the ground running once the market starts to open up.� According to Galbraith farmland

Meikle Richorn

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is especially prized as it now appears to be seen as a potential safe haven when compared to the current turmoil within the stocks, shares and other asset

classes. The agency claims the demand from potential purchasers for rural property has in some areas


Among some of the prime properties attracting interest is Meikle Richorn Farm and Holiday Cottages.

Located in a rural coastal position around three miles from Dalbeattie, and around two miles above the coastal village of Kippford, this 238

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Living Scotland - Country living dreams

of the country exceeded the same period in 2019, with a larger number of new buyers registering to receive updates, for property across Scotland.


Living Scotland - Country living dreams

acres parcel of land, for sale as a whole or in four lots, comes with a traditional six-bedroom farmhouse and 10 holiday cottages. The cottages range from two to

Meikle Richorn

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five bedrooms and many enjoy far reaching views of the Urr Estuary. There is an enclosed outdoor area and each property benefits from its own hot tub. Â

Planning permission was also granted in 2010 for the creation of a sympathetic development of six holiday chalets nestled in the undulating land located at the centre of the farm, adjacent to


presents a truly fantastic lifestyle opportunity,” said David Corrie, handling the sale for Galbraith. “Properties of this nature do not come on to the open market

regularly and with many people currently reconsidering their present lifestyle, it makes for a very exciting lifestyle prospect indeed.”

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Living Scotland - Country living dreams

the farm steading, all positioned to take advantage of the stunning views of the Estuary. “The sale of Meikle Richorn Farm and Holiday Cottages


Living Scotland - Country living dreams

Guide price for the whole lot is ÂŁ3,500,000. For those with a slightly more

Overdale

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modest budget there is Overdale, a handsome Victorian villa in the celebrated Highland spa village of Strathpeffer, for offers over


Strathpeffer prospered during the second half of the 19th

century, when wealthy Londoners came to benefit from the healthgiving properties of its natural springs. Each house in the village

conservation area has its own style but all retain the grandeur and generous proportions of the Victorian era.

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Living Scotland - Country living dreams

ÂŁ345,000.


Living Scotland - Country living dreams “This is a much-loved family home and its meticulous refurbishment has resulted in a wonderful property, with many

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attractive features, welcoming and spacious accommodation. The setting is absolutely ideal, in a sheltered position within the

conservation area and with lovely south facing views over the village to wooded hills beyond,� said Phiddy Robertson who is


Living Scotland - Country living dreams

handling the sale. The house has been reconfigured to provide four bedrooms, three

bathrooms, a study, sitting room, living-dining room and new kitchen while retaining many of the original Victorian features.

Less than the price of bedsit in some parts of London Millers Cottage, Dunkeld is full of country charm and potential for

Millers Cottage

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Living Scotland - Country living dreams offers over ÂŁ190,000. The charming stone built cottage

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has never been sold on the open market before and is located in a highly desirable location near

Dunkeld with attractive views over the surrounding countryside.


Living Scotland - Country living dreams Balmuirfield house

If you fancy a house closer with a country feeling in a more urbanised setting Balmuirfield

House in Dundee is on the market at offers over ÂŁ499,000.

This outstanding former dower house extends to three reception rooms and seven bedrooms

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Living Scotland - Country living dreams and has retained many period features throughout.

The Elms

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A B-listed property it boasts extensive gardens and grounds with a delightful burn and a

former lade and ponds offering a possible hydro scheme potential.


Living Scotland - Country living dreams

The Elms in Elie, Leven, Fife is two houses for the price of one. The guide price of £995.000

includes the substantial period village house, just a short walk from Elie’s renowned harbour

and sandy beach, with an additional two bedroom former gardener’s cottage and separate

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Living Scotland - Country living dreams Newlands

one bedroom studio.

offers over ÂŁ399.000.

If that’s too much land then Newlands at Mintlaw by Peterhead is on the market at

The B-listed detached property is steeped in history, overlooking the historic Deer Abbey, and

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comes with three reception room, four bedrooms and 5.3 acres of garden grounds and mature woodland.


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Supernatural - Strange Tales from Scotland’s Thin Places with... Thomas MacCalman Morton

Strange tales from Scotland’s thin places with...Thomas MacCalman Morton

Photo by The Real Mary King’s Close Deep in the streets below the city of Edinburgh

George Rae, the Edinburgh plague doctor who still

P

seeks recompense

andemic. Epidemic. These are words calculated to spread fear and dismay, as well as very real illness

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and death. And outbreaks of virulent disease are nothing new. Indeed, compared to Pneumonic and Bubonic plague, both of

which wreaked havoc across the pre-antibiotic world, more modern illnesses palled. Until Corona came calling.


https://anchor.fm/tom-morton4/episodes/Strange-Tales-from-Thin-Places--by-Thomas-MacCalman-Morton---volume-three-George-Rae--the-unpaid-plague-doctor-of-Edinburgh-ecqo23

Listen here We have experienced quarantine, or lockdown, for ourselves, but such extreme measures are not new. In 1645, when plague was laying the packed, overcrowded city of Edinburgh low, killing hundreds upon hundreds of people, desperate measures were taken. And yet they all resonate with today, with procedures introduced across the world to cope with COVID-19. In the 1640s, teams of cleaners of property and of human society were formed in Edinburgh, called clengers, clad in white smocks emblazoned with the saltire. Their job was to remove infected people to a remote part of Leith. There essentially to die. Plague pits were dug and bodies dumped there.

Unsurprisingly, he died of plague.

Doctors were appointed, their methods crude and terrifying, and very risky. Bubonic plague, with its swellings the size of oranges, could sometimes be tackled by lancing these boils, to horrific effect. Wounds were sealed with a white hot poker, often to no avail. Dr Paulitious, the first city medical officer appointed, died.

No-one realised that the cause of both plagues was essentially Edinburgh’s prosperity. Rats from the hundreds of ships engaged in trade at Leith brought fleas, and it was these fleas which carried both pneumonic and bubonic plague. Not, as was thought at the time, a miasma, a shadow in the bad air.

Photo by Kim Traynor CC BY-SA 2.0 Edinburgh City Chambers sits above Mary King’s Close

However Mary King’s Close, now world famous as it has become a de rigeur visitor experience for the many tourists who come to Scotland’s capital, may have had its share of bad air. It was built near the marsh called the Nor Loch,a place of foul odours from escaping methane gas and consequent hallucinations and illness among residents.

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Supernatural - Strange Tales from Scotland’s Thin Places with... Thomas MacCalman Morton

Photo by The Real Mary King’s Close Plague Doctor


Supernatural - Strange Tales from Scotland’s Thin Places with... Thomas MacCalman Morton

Photo by The Real Mary King’s Close The Plague Doctor wandering Mary King’s Close

A close, or narrow thoroughfare between soaring tenements, was a kind of street, and Mary King’s Close lay buried for centuries under what is now the City of Edinburgh’s council chambers. It was used as a bomb shelter during the war, and if you visit, you will be told the reason for its survival so long intact: that in 1645, so plague ridden was this small community that the City bricked Mary King’s Close up, sealing forever the 300 residents

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within. But many were still alive. For a time. At least. If you take the tour you will doubtless be both fascinated and appalled by the many dolls left to appease the ghost of Annie, the spirit of a dead child who cries, reputedly for her lost toy. You may even meet Annie, or someone who looks very much like her. But you will also see a replica of another doctor, the inheritor of

Dr Paulitious’s role, and he is in many ways the disgruntled hero of the Great Plague of 1645. Amid the talk today of masks and protective clothing, his apparel is significant. George Rae wore, as did many plague doctors of the time, what looked like a great bird’s head, with a curved beak, covering his entire head. And a long leather hooded cloak. This was to protect him against the miasma, the dark bad air, as the beak was filled with spices, rose


All of which meant that as he creaked and wafted his perfumed way across Edinburgh he struck terror into the hearts and minds of all who met him. Every house with plague within had to display a white sheet in the window. And George Rae would arrive with his brazier, his knives and his poker,

there to lance boils and sear the resulting wounds. To do his best. Or worst. The City of Edinburgh had promised George that he would be well paid for his work. Very well paid because no-one expected him to survive. Yet, perhaps because of the cloak and hood, he did. For year after year, he tried to get the money he was owed. It was never paid, and so the story goes that should

you be exploring the recesses and alleyways off the Royal Mile of an evening, especially as the brewery-smelling fog ascends from the Forth, you may catch a glimpse of something black and bird like, though man sized, lurking in the shadows, and smelling vaguely of roses. It is George Rae, restlessly wandering the streets of Auld Reekie, still trying to claim the money the city owes him. And will never pay.

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Supernatural - Strange Tales from Scotland’s Thin Places with... Thomas MacCalman Morton

petals, and perfume. But the truth is, along with a pair of stout boots, it protected him from fleas and rat bites.


Supernatural - Strange Tales from Scotland’s Thin Places with... Thomas MacCalman Morton

Photo by The Real Mary King’s Close

My name it is George Rae I seek my rightful pay As promised by the city I once served And yes, I am alive I was destined to survive And all I want is all that I deserve

I was the last defence I healed the sick and sometimes raised the dead With knife and blood and fire It’s true a few expired And some regarded me with fear and dread

They carry no disease You can rest assured of that I breathe through spice and flowers And I take the greatest care I am blessed with special powers For there’s something in the air

In plague and pestilence

Rats and fleas rats and fleas Fleas and rats fleas and rats

A stained sheet Almost white At your window in the night

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I lived but was not paid Eternally delayed The terror of the plagues came to

an end I vowed never to grow old Until I received the gold You’ll see me when the twilight mist descends And in the night You’ll know that I was right

They carry no disease You can rest assured of that I breathe through spice and flowers And I take the greatest care I am blessed with special powers For there’s something in the air

Rats and fleas rats and fleas Fleas and rats fleas and rats

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Supernatural - Strange Tales from Scotland’s Thin Places with... Thomas MacCalman Morton

The clengers who come knocking at your door And me all dressed in leather A giant bird without its feathers I am your only hope, no less no more


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Locked down among the artefacts of Alaska A

by Scott Aitken

n Aberdeen archaeologist is spending lockdown in one of the most remote areas of the planet.

Dr Rick Knecht from the University of Aberdeen has been in Quinhagak – a small Alaskan village which has no roads and

endures freezing winters – since last October.

Dr Knecht leads a team of archaeologists, in partnership with the village corporation Qanirtuuq, Inc. and the Yup’ik village of Quinhagak, whose work has uncovered more than 100,000 important artefacts which tell the stories of the region’s people dating back more than four

centuries.

Their efforts are a race against time as melting ice and raging winter storms threaten to reclaim the Nunalleq archaeological site which has revealed wooden ritual masks, ivory tattoo needles, and even a belt of caribou teeth, all preserved in extraordinary condition thanks to the arctic soil.

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Global Scots - Locked down among the artefacts of Alaska

Photo by the University of Aberdeen Rick Knecht


Global Scots - Locked down among the artefacts of Alaska Photo by the University of Aberdeen Drying fish

But even this small and remote community has not escaped the threat of Covid-19.

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“Quinhagak was one of the first villages to go on lockdown with the onset of the pandemic. Nonresidents are forbidden in the

village until at least the end of May and any villagers returning from the outside must endure a strict 14-day quarantine,


Global Scots - Locked down among the artefacts of Alaska

along with members of their household,” said Dr Knecht, who has worked on the Nunalleq dig site for the last 11 years with

each visit lasting several months. “Masks in public places are mandatory and there are limits on

how many customers can enter village stores. I was honoured to be counted among Quinhagak’s residents and allowed to stay.

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Global Scots - Locked down among the artefacts of Alaska Photo by the University of Aberdeen Quinhagak, Alaska

This is our 11th year working here and we have become part of the community.” Over the last decade Dr Knecht has become used to the difficult conditions however this season has proved a particular challenge. “It has been a cold winter with wind chills exceeding -60. Caribou have been scarce and for the first time in memory, starving wolves invaded the community looking for food,” he added.

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“Armed men patrolled the village outskirts and children were sheltered in homes and occasionally evacuated from outdoor playgrounds using school buses. Pipes froze across the village and I’m still without plumbing in my cabin. But the temperatures now are above freezing in mid-day and the tundra has emerged from the snow. “Unfortunately the villagers now have another threat to contend with. The nearest case of

Covid-19 is now in Bethel, some 70 miles away but supplies are still coming in on a regular basis and the first runs of salmon will be swimming upstream in about a month. Trout fishing through the ice has been productive in the meantime and hunters are harvesting and sharing moose and caribou meat.” Meanwhile archaeological research on Quinhagak’s past quietly continues. The Culture Center opened as a partnership between the University of


Global Scots - Locked down among the artefacts of Alaska

Aberdeen and Qanirtuuq, Inc is closed to the public and summer digs are unlikely to take place but work continues to catalogue some of the 100,000 items already uncovered. “Dating to the 16th and 17th centuries A.D. these artefacts have given us our first detailed look at Yup’ik culture before outside contact. It is also the first time that such an important and spectacular collection has ever been housed and curated by an Alaska Native village,” said Dr

Knecht. “Quinhagak is very remote and so research on the collection is immeasurably enriched by community engagement and participation as traditional and scientific knowledge are applied in combination. Although socialising with elders and culture bearers has been curtailed with social distancing, we can still exchange ideas through local internet and texting.

unique opportunity to focus on collections work - time that is otherwise very hard to get - and by summer’s end I hope to have the collection completely catalogued. “As soon as the pandemic clears, I will return to my post at the University of Aberdeen to help organise publication of a monograph on the site.”

“Lockdown has provided a

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Destination - Scotland

Destination P Scotland

lan your trip to the most beautiful country in the world with our directory of places to stay, eat, visit and enjoy.

Rokeby Manor

Invergarry, Highlands Situated on the edge of the Highland Village of Invergarry Rokeby Manor is the epitome of a late Georgian-early Victorian country house.

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This former country house, as featured in issue 32 of Scotland Correspondent, has been turned into a romantic retreat surrounded by landscaped gardens and natural woodland.


Destination - Scotland

Royal Scots Club Edinburgh

More personal than a hotel the Royal Scots Club offers a rare combination of all the charm of a country house with the added cosy atmosphere of a private members’ club in the heart of Scotland’s historic capital of Edinburgh. Founded in 1919 as a living memorial to those who fell in The Great War the club is situated in one of Edinburgh’s finest Georgian streets and is open for bed and breakfast, meetings and events, functions and private dining. Featured in issue 22 of Scotland Correspondent.

Meldrum House

Oldmeldrum, Aberdeenshire More than 800 years of history are wrapped up in this unique boutique country house hotel nestled in the heart of Aberdeenshire’s tranquil countryside. Complete with its own golf course the 240-acre estate and 13th century baronial mansion is the epitome of luxury. As featured in issue 27 of Scotland Correspondent. Meldrum House provides a truly exceptional experience and is an ideal base from which to explore the rich and colourful north east corner of Scotland.

Chester Residence Edinburgh

A luxurious bolthole in central Edinburgh with an expanse of space and all the perks of a grand hotel as featured in issue 21 of Scotland Correspondent. Behind the facades of gracious, listed Georgian townhouses in Edinburgh’s New Town these 5-star apartments are spacious and packed with luxury features, including a top of the range kitchen, a heavenly bathroom or two and sumptuously grand living rooms. 9 Rothesay Place (Main Reception), Edinburgh, EH3 7SL. Tel: +44 (0) 131 226 2075 enquiries@chester-residence.com www.chester-residence.com

Embo House Sutherland

Luxury exclusive self-catering accommodation in a Grad-A listed Georgian mansion overlooking the Dornoch Firth. As featured in issue 24 of Scotland Correspondent. Embo House is steeped in history. This former ancestral castle of Clan Gordon with its 8-spacious bedrooms provides contemporary and luxurious accommodation for large family groups, golfers or even weddings. Embo House, Dornoch, Sutherland. IV25 3PP Tel: 01738 451610 https://www.cottages-and-castles.co.uk

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Destination - Scotland Gleddoch Hotel

Carnoustie Golf Hotel

An independently owned hotel resort overlooking the Clyde Estuary with 75 bedrooms, an 18 hole championship golf course, an elegant banqueting room and a luxury Imperia Spa.

Carnoustie Golf Hotel offers an extensive collection of facilities, including 75 luxury en-suite bedrooms and 10 suites with amazing views over the Championship course, the sea and the local town of Carnoustie. Featured in issue 16 of Scotland Correspondent.

Glasgow

One of the most prestigious, luxury hotels in the Glasgow area just 10 minutes from the airport featured in issue 13 of Scotland Correspondent.

Isle of Eriska Hotel, Spa & Island Benderloch, Oban

Located on the west coast of Scotland on a private 300 acre island with gorgeous views overlooking Loch Linnhe and the dramatic Morvern mountains beyond. Featured in issue 3 of Scotland Correspondent. The hotel offers a variety of accommodation with 16 bedrooms in the main house, five spa suites in the gardens with private hot tub, two garden cottages with two bedrooms each which are ideal for families and six hilltop reserves overlooking Loch Linnhe with private hot tub and balconies.

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Carnoustie

Mercure Hotel inverness Inverness

Featured in issue 15 of Scotland Correspondent. This stylish Inverness hotel has been refurbished throughout, blending traditional Highland hospitality with supreme comfort in the finest waterside hotel Inverness has to offer.


Luss, Loch Lomond

Destination - Scotland

Lodge on Loch Lomond

Portavadie

Loch Fyne, Argyll

The Lodge on Loch Lomond Hotel, on the beachfront at Luss near Glasgow, is the perfect place to relax overlooking Scotland’s favourite loch.

Sitting on the shores of Loch Fyne on Scotland’s west coast, Portavadie is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and unwind amid glorious scenery.

As featured in issue 5 of Scotland Correspondent. The 48-bedroom hotel, complete with a range of conference and banqueting facilities for up to 200 guests and leisure facilities, enjoys an intimate, warm and charming atmosphere. The awardwinning Colquhoun’s Restaurant and Lounge are the perfect place to relax and unwind and watch the changing landscape of the loch.

As featured in issue 2 of Scotland Correspondent. The resort offers world-class marina facilities, a range of holiday accommodation, restaurants and bars, beauty and wellbeing treatments, shopping and event spaces. The spa and leisure experience provides an exceptional way to enjoy the views over Loch Fyne at any time of year, making Portavadie the destination of choice for all occasions.

Trump Turnberry

Turnberry, Ayrshire Trump Turnberry is an iconic landmark on the spectacular Ayrshire coast providing warm Scottish hospitality. As featured in issue 7 of Scotland Correspondent. It offers a range of exceptional venues ideal for meetings, events and weddings. Enjoy the fresh Scottish air while enjoying the wonderful scenery, exceptional dining options, indulgent spa treatments, outdoor activities and championship golf.

Dundas Castle Edinburgh

Dundas Castle is a most spectacular venue for any event. This authentic Scottish Castle has been transformed into a 5-star ‘Exclusive Use’ venue with 17 bedrooms. As featured in issue 13 of Scotland Correspondent. Parts of the castle date back to 1416 and has belonged to the Stewart-Clark family since the late 1800s. Enjoy all the amenities of the finest hotels but with the exclusivity of staying in your own castle.

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Destination - Scotland George Hotel

Inveraray, Argyll Imagine relaxing by an open peat fire, sipping a single-malt whisky after a sumptuous meal before retiring to a luxury bed in a 247-year-old hotel by the side of a spectacular Scottish loch. As featured in issue 11 of Scotland Correspondent. Each of the George’s 17 rooms have been beautifully decorated and many boast a super kingsize bed, jacuzzi bath and even a real open log and coal fire to add an extra layer of romantic cosiness.

Glamis House Glamis, Angus

Built in 1798 Glamis House is a stunning, traditional home with an impressive history, as featured in issue 19 of Scotland Correspondent. The house is situated in the grounds of Glamis Castle. With room for up to 13 people to sleep the house is situated in a stunningly beautiful part of the country boasting superb beaches, great walking trails and renowned golf courses close by, including Carnoustie. Glamis House, Forfar, Angus Tel: 01738 451610 https://www.cottages-and-castles.co.uk

The Station Hotel

Glen Nevis Hostel

Situated in the heart of Scotland’s world renowned whisky country the Station Hotel in Rothes, as featured in issue 30 of Scotland Correspondent, provides the perfect blend of of history, tradition and modern luxury.

Visitors on a budget looking to spend time in one of the most spectacular areas of the Scottish Highlands can do so Glen Nevis Youth Hostel in Fort William, Lochaber.

Speyside

With 14 bedrooms, including five luxury suites, the four-star hotel is ideally placed to serve as a base for visitors interested in exploring the wellsignposted nearby whisky, golf and castle trails of Speyside.

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Fort William

As featured in issue 20 of Scotland Correspondent this jewell in the crown of Hostelling Scotland has recently been refurbished to provide a mix of private en-suite rooms and shared accommodation with all the comforts and modern conveniences of a home from home.


Destination - Scotland

The Chester Hotel Aberdeen

Trump International

Balmedie, Aberdeenshire MacLeod House & Lodge is a five-star luxury hotel located near Balmedie, Aberdeenshire at Trump International Championship Links Golf Course and award-winning five-star resort. As featured in issue 20 of Scotland Correspondent. This historic Scottish mansion and lodge, set amid mature woodland, provides sumptuous accommodation, exquisite dining and an intimate bar. Available for exclusive use, corporate events and weddings it has all the facilities and amenities to suit the modern, traveller.

Situated in the heart of Aberdeen’s historic west end The Chester Hotel, with its 50 luxurious bedrooms and suites, renowned restaurant and stylish lounge bar, is ideally placed for accessing some of the most exciting and challenging golf courses Scotland has to offer. As featured in issue 19 of Scotland Correspondent. It provides a perfect base to explore the north-east with its abundance of castles, whisky distilleries and breath-taking scenery. 59-63 Queen’s Road Aberdeen, AB15 4YP. T: 01224 327777 Reservations@chester-hotel.com www.chester-hotel.com

Fingal

Edinburgh The former Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) tender, MV Fingal, is Scotland’s first floating hotel, complete with Presidential suit - as featured in issue 31 of Scotland Correspondent. Now berthed permanently at the Prince of Wales Dock in the historic Port of Leith, it is a unique addition to Edinburgh’s booming hotel scene. Developed by The Royal Yacht Britannia each of Fingal’s 23 luxury cabins are each named after Stevenson lighthouses, inspired by her rich maritime heritage.

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